Team3S: 3000GT & Stealth Saturday, April 20
2002 Volume 01 : Number
817
----------------------------------------------------------------------
Date:
Fri, 19 Apr 2002 15:58:09 -0400
From:
Jeff.A.Williamson@jci.comSubject:
Team3S: re: Antenna mast
It's most likely that the bottom of the mast has
corroded itself to the
housing. This has happened to me AND one of my 3S
buddies. We both had to
remove the complete antenna assembly (mast, motor,
and housing) from the
car, and literally pry, chip, and cut the mast loose
from the housing using
a hammer and screwdriver. It destroys the old mast,
but doesn't matter as
you're going to be replacing it anyway.
Hope
this helps.
Jeff W.
'92 VR4
Belleville, MI
>
-----Original Message-----
> From: Wayne
[SMTP:whietala@prodigy.net]
> Sent: Thursday,
April 18, 2002 3:53 PM
> To:
team3S@stealth-3000gt.st>
Subject: Team3S: Antenna mast
>
> O.K., so what is the trick
to getting the old antenna mast out. I've read
> several places where it
says "simply pull the mast out while the motor is
> pushing it
up".
>
> Well, i've tried this on several different cars and the
mast has NEVER
> come
> out.
>
> In the past, i just
learned to live with the faulty antenna.
> Now i need to use my car cover,
and MUST replace my mast or it will poke
a
>
> hole in my
cover
>
> I pull on it as hard as i can, rotating it as i pull, and
it simply won't
> come out.
>
> Yes, i have the trim cap and
rubber removed.........
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 19 Apr 2002 16:16:41
EDT
From:
ThorHolth@aol.comSubject: Team3S: low
boost
Pete:
Sounds like you have a problem similar to one I had a
few months ago. Boost
solenoid control valve on the firewall. Mine
functioned intermittently, than
died all together. You then only go on
the basic wastegate setting, which is
about 6-8 psi. Very simple to
check, its the one all the way to the right
(in the set of three on the left
side of the compartment) as you face the
engine. Pull the solenoid out, and
using a pair of test wires, blow through
one port as you connect the
solenoid inputs to the car battery. If you can't
blow through the
ports when power is applied, the valve is bad and needs
replacement.
- -Thor
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 19 Apr 2002 14:30:13
-0700
From: Dean Benz <
dbenz@usa.net>
Subject: Re: [RE: [Team3S:
Front wheel stud replacement question.]]
It may be possible without
breaking the Axle nut loose, but on my 2ngd gen.
'94 TT there was nowhere to
get the studs out without releasing the bearing
and hub from the
housing.
I think we may all saying the same thing though.
You
don't need to press the hub off the bearing, but the bearing and hub do
have
to come at least part way off/out of the housing/suspension, at least on
the
2nd gen. If you have an impact wrench, taking the axle nut off is easy
and
will give you much better access, and allow you to clean up inside the
bearing
housing.
Damon did a good step by step, I just don't know how
he gets grease into a
sealed bearing. It is a 12x1.25 nut by the
way.
cewillis@TexasChildrensHospital.org
wrote:
>
> Dean,
>
> Thanks for the details!
RIch Old Poop says that his shop replaces
> them with the hub stiill in
place on the axle. I have repaired one that
was
> loose with the
hub still in place. You have to rotate the hub to a cutaway
>
section to get access to both inboard and outboard ends of the studs.
>
> Removing the hubs and cleaning/relubing the axle spindles is
>
probably not a bad idea anyhow!
>
> Chuck Willis
Dean
Benz
dbenz@usa.net***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 19 Apr 2002 16:36:31
-0500
From: "Willis, Charles E." <
cewillis@TexasChildrensHospital.org>
Subject:
RE: [RE: [Team3S: Front wheel stud replacement question.]]
Cool. I
need to replace a hub on my 2nd gen VR4 this weekend anyhow. The
two I
replaced myself were on a 1st gen. The part that was a beyach
was
getting the nuts loose from back of the hub/housing thing.
I wish
I had an impact wrench for the hub nut. I just used a long breakover
wrench
and a torque wrench to reinstall.
> -----Original Message-----
>
From: Dean Benz [SMTP:dbenz@usa.net]
> Sent: Friday, April 19, 2002 4:30
PM
> To:
cewillis@TexasChildrensHospital.org;
Team3S@stealth-3000gt.st>
Subject: Re: [RE: [Team3S: Front wheel stud replacement question.]]
>
> It may be possible without breaking the Axle nut loose, but on my
2ngd
> gen.
> '94 TT there was nowhere to get the studs out without
releasing the
> bearing
> and hub from the housing.
>
>
I think we may all saying the same thing though.
>
> You don't need
to press the hub off the bearing, but the bearing and hub
> do
>
have to come at least part way off/out of the housing/suspension, at
least
> on
> the 2nd gen. If you have an impact wrench, taking the
axle nut off is easy
> and
> will give you much better access, and
allow you to clean up inside the
> bearing
> housing.
>
> Damon did a good step by step, I just don't know how he gets grease
into a
> sealed bearing. It is a 12x1.25 nut by the way.
***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 19 Apr 2002 17:52:30
EDT
From:
DonBrando36@aol.comSubject: Team3S:
acceleration
what would be the cause of bad
acceleration? a slow start and the feel
of less
powerful?
thanks
brandon
93 3000GT n/a dohc
k&n
intake
msd 8.5mm wires
denso iranium plugs
venom 400
***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 19 Apr 2002 15:01:07
-0700
From: Damon Rachell <
damonr@mefas.com>
Subject: Re: [RE:
[Team3S: Front wheel stud replacement question.]]
The way i got the axle
nut off was to stop the rotation of the hub by
using a 2.5' section of rebar
wrapped in a towel to protect the threads
of the studs. that allowed
me to use a large braker bar and the largest
metric socket that I
could find (don't remember the size, sorry).
to inject grease, I just
have a syring which I use to try to get some
grease down in between the
walls of the bearing. Then spinning the
bearing allows some of it to
wick down. whether this actually helps or
not, i dunno, but since i'm
there, i figure it can't hurt.
good luck
Damon
Willis, Charles
E. wrote:
> Cool. I need to replace a hub on my 2nd gen VR4 this
weekend anyhow. The
> two I replaced myself were on a 1st gen.
The part that was a beyach was
> getting the nuts loose from back of the
hub/housing thing.
>
> I wish I had an impact wrench for the hub
nut. I just used a long breakover
> wrench and a torque wrench to
reinstall.
>
>>-----Original Message-----
>>From: Dean
Benz [SMTP:dbenz@usa.net]
>>Sent: Friday, April 19, 2002 4:30
PM
>>To:
cewillis@TexasChildrensHospital.org;
Team3S@stealth-3000gt.st>>Subject:
Re: [RE: [Team3S: Front wheel stud replacement
question.]]
>>
>>It may be possible without breaking the Axle
nut loose, but on my 2ngd
>>gen.
>>'94 TT there was nowhere to
get the studs out without releasing the
>>bearing
>>and hub
from the housing.
>>
>>I think we may all saying the same
thing though.
>>
>>You don't need to press the hub off the
bearing, but the bearing and hub
>>do
>>have to come at least
part way off/out of the housing/suspension, at
least
>>on
>>the 2nd gen. If you have an impact wrench, taking
the axle nut off is easy
>>and
>>will give you much better
access, and allow you to clean up inside
the
>>bearing
>>housing.
>>
>>Damon did a
good step by step, I just don't know how he gets grease into a
>>sealed
bearing. It is a 12x1.25 nut by the way.
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 19 Apr 2002 18:13:46
-0400
From: Fred Richardson <
fbr@sympatico.ca>
Subject: Team3S: 95
RT TT for sale
Dear Team:
Must sell my TT. Emerald Green 125,000 Km
.New Getrag @ 100,000. New
front struts. FIPK, HKS aluminum body SSBOV, OZ f1
Cup 18" rims, Falken
GRBII radials . BO.
F.B.Richardson
RR#4
Merrickville ON
K0G1N0
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 19 Apr 2002 15:22:05
-0700
From: "fastmax" <
fastmax@cox.net>
Subject: Re: [RE:
[Team3S: Front wheel stud replacement question.]]
I left the rotor on and
stuck a screwdriver in the cooling vanes of the
rotor and turned it until it
hit the ground --- I also have an air compressor
and air tools which makes
the job a tad easier.
Jim
Berry
====================================
- ----- Original Message -----
From: "Damon Rachell" <
damonr@mefas.com>
To: "Willis, Charles
E." <
cewillis@TexasChildrensHospital.org>
Cc:
"'Dean Benz'" <
dbenz@usa.net>; <
Team3S@stealth-3000gt.st>
Sent:
Friday, April 19, 2002 3:01 PM
Subject: Re: [RE: [Team3S: Front wheel stud
replacement question.]]
> The way i got the axle nut off was to
stop the rotation of the hub by
> using a 2.5' section of rebar wrapped
in a towel to protect the threads
> of the studs. that allowed me
to use a large braker bar and the largest
> metric socket
that I could find (don't remember the size, sorry).
>
> to inject
grease, I just have a syring which I use to try to get some
> grease down
in between the walls of the bearing. Then spinning the
> bearing
allows some of it to wick down. whether this actually helps or
>
not, i dunno, but since i'm there, i figure it can't hurt.
>
> good
luck
> Damon
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 19 Apr 2002 23:13:11
-0400
From: Anthony Melillo <
anthonymelillo3@comcast.net>
Subject:
Team3S: document created on fig light bulb replacement on 2nd gen
I
created a Word Document and took some pictures when I recently replaced
the Fog Light bulbs on my 1997 VR-4, and was wondering if
anyone would like
to post it on their site, or whatever, so that everyone can
benefit.
Thanks all
Anthony Melillo
1997 VR-4, Firestorm Red
http://mywebpages.comcast.net/anthonymelillo3/3000gt.htm***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 19 Apr 2002 20:28:13
-0700
From: "Paul Prentis" <
paul@ppeengineering.com>
Subject:
Team3S: how much knock is too much?
I finally got my datalogger working
in my car and noticed that I was getting
detonation at 12psi with 91 octaine
gas. With ~96 octaine I can run about
16 - 17psi with knock under
10. I haven't had time to see if I can tune out
a couple more psi on
the 96 octaine.
I know that all knock is bad, but how much knock is
really dangerous? I have
seen upto 19 on the TMO.
Paul
92
RT/TT
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Sat, 20 Apr 2002 11:00:14
+0100
From: "martin" <
martinberkley@blueyonder.co.uk>
Subject:
Team3S: Car wont start help needed
Hello all.
I have a problem with my
3000GTO TT not starting.
It just cut out on me while driving like it had run
out of fuel.
It has fuel in it and i have checked that there is a spark at
the plug.
So i disconnected the high pressure fuel line from the front fuel
rail and
turned the car over, no fuel came out.
I suspect the fuel pump
but am not an expert and dont have a manual.
Can anyone suggest any tests i
can perform to see if the fuel pump is at
fault or any other devices that i
could test.
I do have a digital voltmeter to hand as well as all the tools i
could
possibly need and am fairly mechanically minded but without a manual i
am a
bit blind.
If the fuel pump has gone then i can get my hands on a
Supra fuel pump but
is there a certain year of pump that i have to go for,
and i am only running
the standard injectors.
The only mod i have is the K
& N FIPK.
Any help is appreciated
Thanks in
advance
Martin
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Sat, 20 Apr 2002 12:04:17
+0200
From: "Roger Gerl" <
roger.gerl@bluewin.ch>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: how much knock is too much?
After a knock sum of around 13
the timing is getting retarded. Therefore the
ECU sees this amount of knock
as not good and starts to do the first step.
If knock doesn't go lower it
will be retarded even more if rpm rises in a
second step.
Therefore
keep the knock below this level otherwise you will fall into much
higher
knock if a tank of fuel is worser than another or the
weather
changes.
Roger
93'3000GT TT
www.rtec.ch- ----- Original Message
-----
From: "Paul Prentis" <
paul@ppeengineering.com>
To:
<
team3S@stealth-3000gt.st>
Sent:
Saturday, April 20, 2002 5:28 AM
Subject: Team3S: how much knock is too
much?
> I finally got my datalogger working in my car and noticed that
I was
getting
> detonation at 12psi with 91 octaine gas. With ~96
octaine I can run about
> 16 - 17psi with knock under 10. I haven't
had time to see if I can tune
out
> a couple more psi on the 96
octaine.
>
> I know that all knock is bad, but how much knock is
really dangerous? I
have
> seen upto 19 on the TMO.
>
>
Paul
> 92 RT/TT
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Sat, 20 Apr 2002 10:59:40
-0000
From: "Jeff Lucius" <
jlucius@stealth316.com>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Car wont start help needed
First, buy a manual! The most
inexpensive yet most rewarding option is the
Manual on CD by Team3S member
Vinny Singh. Only $35 US!
http://www.manualcd.com/There can be
many causes for an engine not starting, from fuses to CAS to
broken timing
belt to ECM. Literally dozens. The manual will help you get
organized to
find and fix the problem.
As far as the fuel pump goes, there is a
terminal in the engine compartment by
the battery that is there just to
check the pump. Supply +12 volts from the
battery directly to the single
terminal in this connector to power the pump
even with the ignition switch
off. The last picture on my web page below shows
this connector.
http://www.stealth316.com/2-fp_install.htmThe
Supra MKIV fuel pump is by far the best drop-in pump *proven* to flow the
most fuel. See my web page below for fuel pump upgrade options and flow
tests.
http://www.stealth316.com/2-fuelpumpguide.htmJeff
Lucius,
http://www.stealth316.com/-
---------- Original Message -------------
Subject: Team3S: Car wont start
help needed
Date: Sat, 20 Apr 2002 11:00:14 +0100
From: "martin" <
martinberkley@blueyonder.co.uk>
To:
"Team3s" <
Team3S@stealth-3000gt.st>
Hello
all.
I have a problem with my 3000GTO TT not starting.
It just cut out on
me while driving like it had run out of fuel.
It has fuel in it and i have
checked that there is a spark at the plug.
So i disconnected the high
pressure fuel line from the front fuel rail and
turned the car over, no fuel
came out.
I suspect the fuel pump but am not an expert and dont have a
manual.
Can anyone suggest any tests i can perform to see if the fuel pump is
at
fault or any other devices that i could test.
I do have a digital
voltmeter to hand as well as all the tools i could
possibly need and am
fairly mechanically minded but without a manual i am a
bit blind.
If the
fuel pump has gone then i can get my hands on a Supra fuel pump but
is there
a certain year of pump that i have to go for, and i am only running
the
standard injectors.
The only mod i have is the K & N FIPK.
Any help is
appreciated
Thanks in advance
Martin
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Sat, 20 Apr 2002 08:46:40
-0400
From: "Furman, Russell" <
RFurman2@MassMutual.com>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: Car wont start help needed
Martin, go to Stealth 316.com it
has instructions on how to test you fuel
pump. Also you may wanna check
fuel flow before the filter (have you
replaced it in the last 60k miles?) it
may be clogged. If it does in fact
to be the pump you are looking for
either the 93.5-98 Supra TT pump your
other option in the walboro 255lph
(about $105 + shipping from
importpoweronline.com ). Either of these fuel
pumps is a direct drop in
replacement four our cars.
To all
digest mebers I apologize on behalf of all of us who have not been
trimming
down the the messages before sending our replies to the list. WE
all
know who we are so how about we all pay the fawking attention to what we
are
doing.
Russ F
CT
- -----Original Message-----
From:
martin [mailto:martinberkley@blueyonder.co.uk]
Sent: Sat 4/20/2002 6:00 AM
To: Team3s
Cc:
Subject: Team3S: Car wont start help
needed
Hello all.
I have a problem with my 3000GTO TT not starting.
It just cut out on me while driving like it had run out of fuel.
So i
disconnected the high pressure fuel line from the front fuel rail and
turned
the car over, no fuel came out.
I suspect the fuel pump but am not an expert
and dont have a manual.
Can anyone suggest any tests i can perform to see if
the fuel pump is at
fault or any other devices that i could test.
If the
fuel pump has gone then i can get my hands on a Supra fuel pump but
is there
a certain year of pump that i have to go for, and i am only running
the
standard injectors.
The only mod i have is the K & N FIPK.
Any help
is appreciated
Thanks in advance
Martin
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Sat, 20 Apr 2002 08:38:15
-0700
From: "Riyan Mynuddin" <
riyan@hotpop.com>
Subject: RE: Team3S:
Car wont start help needed
Martin-
Talk to me before you do
anything major, especially messing with the fuel lines. If you break a fuel
line, you will be paying out of your ass, and depending on the condition of your
lines, it can be tough to service the lines without breaking them. Not that I'm
proud of it after the HELL that I just went through, but I would probably be the
one the talk to about the fuel delivery system. I went on a witch hunt,
replacing parts left and right, until finally I found a tiny leak in the pump
side fuel pressure hose which caused:
1) fuel pressure to drop
2)
short circuit in fuel pressure regulation system which blew my engine
fuse
Reinforing what Jeff says, you will definetely need the manual.
There is no way I would have been able to fix my fuel delivery issues without
it. I also want to warn you that although the manual helps a lot, there is SO
much stuff on this car that looks similar to other stuff that you will
definetely have trouble. Is this car your primary driver? Because I was thinking
about putting a "fuel delivery system primer" on the FAQ pages, but that may
take some time. If you're in a hurry, I'd be glad to start helping you by e-mail
today. Just let me know what's up. The first thing you need to do is jump your
fuel pump on using the fuel pump check terminal, which is almost impossible to
find. That's where the manual comes in!!
I'm looking forward to helping
out.
As many members know, I've been recording my progress on the baby as
I go along. You can now see my fixed car at
http://www.advantedgecomputing.com/stllow/stealth.htmRiyan
93
stealth rt tt
- -----Original Message-----
From:
owner-team3s@team3s.com
[mailto:owner-team3s@team3s.com]On Behalf
Of Furman, Russell
Sent:
Saturday, April 20, 2002 5:47 AM
To: Team3s
Subject: RE: Team3S: Car wont
start help needed
Martin, go to Stealth 316.com it has instructions on
how to test you fuel
pump. Also you may wanna check fuel flow before
the filter (have you
. . .
<cut>(about $105 + shipping
from
importpoweronline.com ). Either of these fuel pumps is a direct drop
in
replacement four our cars.
<cut>
Russ F
CT
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Sat, 20 Apr 2002 13:38:32
-0400
From: "Darren Schilberg" <
dschilberg@pobox.com>
Subject: RE:
Team3S: engine dress up
But I thought the PCV hose had the check valve
inside it? I was at Pep
Boys and a friend was buying a PCV check valve
for his Civic. I took it
and blew through one end. Air came
out. I turned it around and blew
air through it and nothing (the check
valve made sure of that). I know
a Civic is not a 3/S but where is our
check valve?
If the PCV hose is just a rigid hose/tube then where IS the
PCV check
valve? I feel my PCV hose is clogged. Why would a
straight tube get
clogged from just oil vapor/small liquid drops going
through? If it has
a check valve then that will make more sense why it
would get clogged
up.
And I thought the oil catch can (like Scott
Cowan has) did away with the
check valve in the PCV by separating the air and
oil and catching the
oil and keeping it aside.
Yes, Erik, only vacuum
lines are to replaced directly with silicone
vacuum hoses with the only
exception being the coolant overflow tube.
All other hoses/tubes can only be
covered (unless you are diligent and
want to pull the cruise control cable
all the way through like a friend
of mine did ... A bit easier to just cover
it up though). Good job
keeping the old hoses though. Mine are in
individual Glad bags labeled
so I know where they go back.
-
--Flash!
1995 VR-4
- -----Original Message-----
From:
cewillis@TexasChildrensHospital.orgSent:
Friday, April 19, 2002 12:23 PM
To:
dschilberg@pobox.com;
team3S@stealth-3000gt.stSubject:
RE: Team3S: engine dress up
Wrongo. The PCV valve is a check valve.
The PCV hose is a straight
hose.
Chuck Willis
***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Sat, 20 Apr 2002 19:57:34
+0200
From: "Roger Gerl" <
roger.gerl@bluewin.ch>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: engine dress up
> But I thought the PCV hose had the check
valve inside it?
The PCV is at the inlet of the front valve cover. It is
very weak and even a
new one often starts to leak at higher than stock bosot
after a few weeks
(due to the hot/cold cycles). It MUST close when the plenum
is under boost
and immediatly open when under vacuum.
> And I
thought the oil catch can (like Scott Cowan has) did away with the
> check
valve in the PCV by separating the air and oil and catching the
> oil and
keeping it aside.
No, it doesn't replace the PCV !
> Yes, Erik,
only vacuum lines are to replaced directly with silicone
> vacuum hoses
with the only exception being the coolant overflow tube.
> All other
hoses/tubes can only be covered
The PCV hoses can be replaced easily with
silicone ones, no problems at all.
Roger
93'3000GT TT
www.rtec.ch*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Sat, 20 Apr 2002 14:03:13
-0500
From: "S. J Cowan" <
sjc0u812@juno.com>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: engine dress up
Darren/Roger/et al:
> > And I
thought the oil catch can (like Scott Cowan has) did away
> with
the
> > check valve in the PCV by separating the air and oil and
catching
> the
> > oil and keeping it aside.
>
>
No, it doesn't replace the PCV !
Correct, I did not remove the PCV
valve.
> > Yes, Erik, only vacuum lines are to replaced
directly with
> silicone
> > vacuum hoses with the only
exception being the coolant overflow
> tube.
> > All other
hoses/tubes can only be covered
>
> The PCV hoses can be replaced
easily with silicone ones, no problems
> at all.
Replaced yes,
problems... I don't know. Hose Techniques states their SVH
are to be
used for air or vacuum only, with exceptions being windshield
washer hose and
radiator over flow hose. I personally did not use them
for that
application.
Best,
SJ
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Sat, 20 Apr 2002 14:22:13
-0500
From: "david hacker" <
admin@01010110.net>
Subject: Team3S:
Need a SOHC engine
I need to find somewhere in the Texas area to buy a
SOHC engine, it
doesn't have to be new but needs to be in good
condition. I am willing
to buy from a junkyard if necessary.
If
anyone can help me thank you,
David Hacker
admin@01010110.net ***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Sat, 20 Apr 2002 16:17:43
-0400
From: "Darren Schilberg" <
dschilberg@pobox.com>
Subject: RE:
Team3S: engine dress up
Thanks, Roger. That explains a lot that
used to confuse me.
- --Flash!
1995 VR-4
- -----Original
Message-----
From: Roger Gerl
Sent: Saturday, April 20, 2002 1:58
PM
> But I thought the PCV hose had the check valve inside
it?
The PCV is at the inlet of the front valve cover. It is very weak
and
even a new one often starts to leak at higher than stock bosot after
a
few weeks (due to the hot/cold cycles). It MUST close when the plenum
is
under boost and immediatly open when under vacuum.
> And I
thought the oil catch can (like Scott Cowan has) did away with
> the
check valve in the PCV by separating the air and oil and catching
> the
oil and keeping it aside.
No, it doesn't replace the PCV !
>
Yes, Erik, only vacuum lines are to replaced directly with silicone
>
vacuum hoses with the only exception being the coolant overflow tube.
>
All other hoses/tubes can only be covered
The PCV hoses can be replaced
easily with silicone ones, no problems at
all.
*** Info:
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End of Team3S: 3000GT &
Stealth V1
#817
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