Team3S: 3000GT & Stealth Friday, April 19
2002 Volume 01 : Number
816
----------------------------------------------------------------------
Date:
Thu, 18 Apr 2002 16:14:30 -0400
From: "Omar Malik" <
ojm@iname.com>
Subject: RE: Team3S:
Antenna mast
it should just come out. i know that's not what you wanted
to here ;)
If it doesnt come out the way your describing, you're going to
have to pull
the interior trim and pull the entire unit out, and figure it
out from
there. it sounds like the base part of the mast is simply stuck
inside the
assembly. Is it the metal base of the mast that wont come out? Or
is it the
gear-toothed cable inside that wont come out? If it's the base, it
should
come out just pulling hard at the base of the mast (after removing
the
collar like you said you have). If it's the cable, you'll likely have
to
remove the motor, disassemble it (very messy) and find out what's causing
it
to stick. I know after replacing my mast it wouldnt go down all the
way..
opening the unit, i found a piece of the old cable that made the new
one
appear to be longer then it was when wound up.
Omar
92
r/t
- -----Original Message-----
From:
owner-team3s@team3s.com
[mailto:owner-team3s@team3s.com]On Behalf
Of Wayne
Sent: Thursday, April
18, 2002 3:53 PM
To:
team3S@stealth-3000gt.stSubject:
Team3S: Antenna mast
O.K., so what is the trick to getting the old
antenna mast out. I've read
several places where it says "simply pull the
mast out while the motor is
pushing it up".
Well, i've tried this on
several different cars and the mast has NEVER come
out.
In the past, i
just learned to live with the faulty antenna.
Now i need to use my car cover,
and MUST replace my mast or it will poke a
hole in my cover
I pull on
it as hard as i can, rotating it as i pull, and it simply won't
come
out.
Yes, i have the trim cap and rubber
removed.........
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 18 Apr 2002 14:21:26
-0600
From: Desert Fox <
bigfoot@simmgene.com>
Subject:
Team3S: More new clutch
OK. The new clutch is kick arse. I'm even
learning how to drive it again,
smoothly. I've stalled it more times since
the clutch was installed than I
had the entire year previously! I've always
been a double-clutcher and
rev-matcher so if this VR-4 has made it to 100K
miles with the grind from
1st to 2nd on the original clutch, then I'm hoping
to milk the tranny for
another 50K or better before messing with syncro
replacement.
I don't know if it is because they just cleaned up
everything and got it all
back in there just right but aside from the 1st to
2nd crunch, I'd swear
they put a new tranny in there. It shifts smoother now,
easier to get into
each gear. And no, they didn't even change the fluids as I
had provided them
with 3 quarts of 75-90 and they didn't touch it.
The
tranny shop recommends an alignment as soon as possible after having
the
tranny pulled. Good idea? I guess I'll just take the opportunity to have
an
all wheel alignment done.
Now that I have all my horsepower
available once again, brakes seem to be
next on the list. Most of the time, I
don't feel any oddness. But sometimes
at high speeds when I hit the brakes,
it feels like they might be warped as
I get some vibration in steering. So
I'm thinking replace rotors and pads?
Front only or all the way around?
Powerslot rotors or the Porterfield cryo
dealies? This is an everyday driver
so I'm not looking to turn it into a
race vehicle. And the recommended brake
fluid is that Motul Heavy Duty
stuff? Is it DOT 3 or 4? What is in the car
now? Should I go with DOT 3 or
4? Looks like brake line kits are around $250?
Should I go ahead and do that
if I've taken the time to do the rest of the
brakes?
The only odd thing that I've noticed is that I have what appear
to be some
stuck pixels on the stereo display in between the digits that
display what
CD track is currently playing. It started as just a couple of
bright spots
but now is spread to a pencil-eraser sized bright spot. Anybody
seen this
weirdness?
- --
Paul/.
95 black 3000GT VR-4
98
VFR800F, TBR aluminum hi exit
formerly reasonable and
prudent
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 18 Apr 2002 15:51:36
-0500
From: "Geisel, Brian" <
Brian.Geisel@COMPAQ.com>
Subject:
Team3S: ECU monitoring boost
Hey folks,
I realize I should know this
already, but I don't - hence I'm asking :) Do our boost/manifold pressure
lines go to the waste gate springs directly, or do they go to the ECU which
controls boost? I was under the impression that the ECU was controlling
boost, but then I realized other cars made it a purely mechanical thing (until
you install a boost controller). Which way do our cars
function?
TIA,
geis
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 18 Apr 2002 13:58:23
-0700
From: "Gross, Erik" <
erik.gross@intel.com>
Subject: RE:
Team3S: ECU monitoring boost
The ECU controls the amount of boost seen by
the wastegates by
actuating a solenoid that, when open, bleeds off air from
the wastegate
lines. The ECU determines the solenoid duty cycle based
on things like
airflow, air temp, knock, RPM, barometric pressure, and other
stuff.
However, AFAIK, the ECU doesn't actually *read* the pressure in the
manifold
- - it calculates it based on the above parameters.
Thus if you want to datalog boost, you need to install a MAP
sensor
or something else that lets you record boost. I have a GM 3-bar
MAP sensor
(0-5V) in my VR-4 that I use for my water injection system and it
works
great... or at least it did before my car decided to get intimate with
a
concrete wall :(
- --Erik
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 18 Apr 2002 17:00:37
EDT
From:
ThorHolth@aol.comSubject: Team3S: Air
Conditioning
Bob:
I had the same problem in my car last summer
(1991 Dodge TT); I called the
local mitsubishi dealer, horrified to guess
what an R-12 recharge was going
to cost. However, I was in
luck!
Our cars can be retrofitted and recharged with
R-134a, the ozone-friendly
coolant. The cost for the retrofit and
refill at my local mitsubishi dealer
was about $140, with labor and parts.
supposedly, the R-134a coolant isn't as efficient as
R-12 (about 80%
efficient), but it saved me a bundle, and it works just fine
(for reference,
I live in CT, and we had a few 100-plus degree days here
last year, and I had
cold air the whole time).
Once the car is retro-fit, you can buy the 134a canisters at NAPA or
whatever your local car parts store is for about $3 a pound, instead of $150
per pound for R-12 (R-12 also requires a license to purchase, if you can
find
it).
best of luck
- -thor
p.s. - I want to thank
jeff lucius for leading me to Auto and Truck
Electronics in FLA, they're
working on my ECU. Good call, Jeff!
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 18 Apr 2002 13:59:26
-0700
From: "Bob Forrest" <
bf@bobforrest.com>
Subject: Team3S:
Best new Clutch Break-In method???
The new RPS Max Street clutch was
installed today in my '94 Stealth. What's
the best way to break it
in? How many miles are recommended for me to
"baby" it? What
conditions - highway, stop-and-go traffic? TIA for
your
suggestions...
Best,
Forrest
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 18 Apr 2002 15:14:17
-0600
From: "Floyd, Jim" <
Jim_Floyd@maxtor.com>
Subject: RE:
Team3S: New Propane Injection Kit supplier!
Dave,
If he is going
to design a special tank maybe he could make it a
shape that would fit our
cars better.
Any chance ?
- -----Original Message-----
From: Black,
Dave (ICT) [mailto:dblai@allstate.com]
Sent: Thursday, April 18, 2002 12:22
PM
To: 'Floyd, Jim'
Cc: Team3s (E-mail)
Subject: RE: Team3S: New
Propane Injection Kit supplier!
Yes, in fact the kit my neighbor is
designing will be a bullet-proof tank
and unlike the typical BBQ tank.
The valve connectors are protected also.
No offense to Matt at all but they
took one look at DR's kit and said they
wouldn't even think about installing
it. It doesn't even have a pressure
release. So, in a car on a
HOT day you are just building pressure even
though the tanks are able to be
filled to only 80% because of special safety
filler valves. My
neighbor's system has an automatic vent to atmosphere
safety feature much
like that for purging NOS tanks.
I hae seen his race car and it is full
quality and has dual fuel capability
- - regular fuel, both, or pure
propane. He said the performance difference
between running pure
propane and regular fuel is like black and white -
propane blows regular fuel
away. He estimates about 650-700hp in the car
now and hasn't yet
installed NOS. Next year he's bullet-proofing the
engine, tranny, and
diff. and hopes for in excess of 1000hp or about a mid
to low 9 second
car!
I will be with him at the track when he runs it in the 1/4 in
several weeks.
Should be pretty cool!
Dave 95VR4
http://www.daveblack.net-
-----Original Message-----
From: Floyd, Jim
[mailto:Jim_Floyd@maxtor.com]
Sent: Thursday, April 18, 2002 9:15 AM
To:
'Roger Gerl'; Team3s (E-mail)
Subject: RE: Team3S: New Propane Injection Kit
supplier!
Are there any tanks available other than the ones used for
camping ?
- -----Original Message-----
From: Roger Gerl
[mailto:roger.gerl@bluewin.ch]
Sent: Wednesday, April 17, 2002 3:35 PM
To:
Team3s (E-mail)
Subject: Re: Team3S: New Propane Injection Kit
supplier!
Another one driving around with a bomb on board. For track
purposes yes, but
on the streets, ....
Sorry, I think this stuff is
too dangerous when the bottle is opened in a
driving car. Just my
opinion.
Roger
93'3000GT TT
www.rtec.ch> This topic is being
expanded from a very hot thread on 3Si. My neighbor
> owns a company
called "Fire 'em Up" that specializes in propane and
> conversions to
either full propane or adding propane injection. I know
that
>
Dynamic Racing is currently selling Propane Injection kits.
***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 18 Apr 2002 21:30:28
-0000
From: "Jeff Lucius" <
jlucius@stealth316.com>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: ECU monitoring boost
A small correction to the comments
below. 1996 and later 3000GTs have a MAP
sensor (0 to 5 volts). As far as I
know, it is for emissions use only (to
confirm proper EGR operation) and the
ECM still calculates "boost" for the
meter. Still, it could be used by the
operator to monitor boost or for a WI
system.
Jeff Lucius,
http://www.stealth316.com/- -----
Original Message -----
From: "Gross, Erik" <
erik.gross@intel.com>
To: "'Geisel,
Brian'" <
Brian.Geisel@COMPAQ.com>; "Team 3S
list"
<
Team3S@stealth-3000gt.st>
Sent:
Thursday, April 18, 2002 2:58 PM
Subject: RE: Team3S: ECU monitoring
boost
The ECU controls the amount of boost seen by the wastegates
by
actuating a solenoid that, when open, bleeds off air from the
wastegate
lines. The ECU determines the solenoid duty cycle based on
things like
airflow, air temp, knock, RPM, barometric pressure, and other
stuff.
However, AFAIK, the ECU doesn't actually *read* the pressure in the
manifold
- - it calculates it based on the above parameters.
Thus if you want to datalog boost, you need to install a MAP
sensor
or something else that lets you record boost. I have a GM 3-bar
MAP sensor
(0-5V) in my VR-4 that I use for my water injection system and it
works
great... or at least it did before my car decided to get intimate with
a
concrete wall :(
- --Erik
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 18 Apr 2002 16:48:07
-0500
From: "Black, Dave (ICT)" <
dblai@allstate.com>
Subject: Team3S:
New Mitsu dealership selling parts at wholesale
An FYI...
Just
wanted to let everyone know I just spoke with Ron (the new parts
manager) at
Libertyville Mitsubishi in IL about parts and he has agreed to
sell to 3Si
members for wholesale cost. Their number is 847-816-6660.
Dave
95VR4
http://www.daveblack.net***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 18 Apr 2002 22:00:54
+0000
From:
apedenko@attbi.comSubject: Team3S: Need
help asap - safety concern
Hey guys -
This is sort of
important. I need to drive from
michigan to chicago tomorrow (~300miles) and
I need to
know if it's safe to do so.
I think I have a bad
wheel bearing. Symptoms:
1. I can hear a wobling sound at higher speeds (say
40+). I can't pinpoint where it's coming from - it just
seems to fill
the car.
2. Just now I noticed a high pitched sound coming from
the
front. Now normally i'd think it's a belt noise,
BUT... It's only there when
the car is moving and I can
only hear it from the driver front wheel (i had
someone
drive as i listened). What I don't understand about
that is the
fact that the sound seems to be an on/off
type deal. The second the car
starts moving, it
appears. Also it doesn't seem to get louder as the car
moves faster. It just goes on and stays on at the same
pitch and volume
until the car stops.
Ideas? I need to drive home and need to know if the
car
will last that long. I don't want a wheel coming off on
the highway
@ 80mph.
Once i get home I can park it and fix it, but not until
then.
thanks,
Alex.
'95 Vr4
***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 18 Apr 2002 16:09:07
-0600
From: "Floyd, Jim" <
Jim_Floyd@maxtor.com>
Subject:
Team3S: EGR mod was ECU monitoring boost
What improvement is gained by
sealing off the EGR with a plate ?
I understand it is a mod that GT Pro
does.
- -----Original Message-----
From: Jeff Lucius
[mailto:jlucius@stealth316.com]
Sent: Thursday, April 18, 2002 3:30 PM
To:
Team3S@stealth-3000gt.stSubject:
Re: Team3S: ECU monitoring boost
A small correction to the comments
below. 1996 and later 3000GTs have a MAP
sensor (0 to 5 volts). As far as I
know, it is for emissions use only (to
confirm proper EGR operation) and the
ECM still calculates "boost" for the
meter. Still, it could be used by the
operator to monitor boost or for a WI
system.
Jeff Lucius,
http://www.stealth316.com/- -----
Original Message -----
From: "Gross, Erik" <
erik.gross@intel.com>
To: "'Geisel,
Brian'" <
Brian.Geisel@COMPAQ.com>; "Team 3S
list"
<
Team3S@stealth-3000gt.st>
Sent:
Thursday, April 18, 2002 2:58 PM
Subject: RE: Team3S: ECU monitoring
boost
The ECU controls the amount of boost seen by the wastegates
by
actuating a solenoid that, when open, bleeds off air from the
wastegate
lines. The ECU determines the solenoid duty cycle based on
things like
airflow, air temp, knock, RPM, barometric pressure, and other
stuff.
However, AFAIK, the ECU doesn't actually *read* the pressure in the
manifold
- - it calculates it based on the above parameters.
Thus if you want to datalog boost, you need to install a MAP
sensor
or something else that lets you record boost. I have a GM 3-bar
MAP sensor
(0-5V) in my VR-4 that I use for my water injection system and it
works
great... or at least it did before my car decided to get intimate with
a
concrete wall :(
- --Erik
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 18 Apr 2002 15:13:22
-0700
From: "dakken" <
dougusmagnus@attbi.com>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: EGR mod was ECU monitoring boost
You get a cleaner and cooler
intake charge and with it more power. The EGR
system stands for Exhaust
Gas Recirculation. When you seal off the EGR with
a plate, you
neutralize the system. No more exhaust gas is recirculated
into your
intake. You also end up with higher emissions and a car that is
not
street legal. Just like gutting the pre-cats, there is no way to
detect
this until you go in for an emissions test.
Doug
92 Stealth
RT TT
- ----- Original Message -----
From: "Floyd, Jim" <
Jim_Floyd@maxtor.com>
To: <
Team3S@stealth-3000gt.st>
Sent:
Thursday, April 18, 2002 3:09 PM
Subject: Team3S: EGR mod was ECU monitoring
boost
> What improvement is gained by sealing off the EGR with a plate
?
> I understand it is a mod that GT Pro does.
***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 18 Apr 2002 18:23:17
-0400
From: "Darren Schilberg" <
dschilberg@pobox.com>
Subject: RE:
Team3S: Need help asap - safety concern
Alex.
I would say park it
unless you know exactly what it is and it is not
critical (like a warped
rotor). A rental car is only $30 per day and
puts your life in no
danger. I would say it is safer to not drive it
... at least not that
far. If you're real stuck on driving it then
borrow a fellow MI 3/S car
for the trip or let them drive you. =)
- --Flash!
1995
VR-4
- -----Original Message-----
From:
apedenko@attbi.comSent: Thursday, April
18, 2002 18:01
Hey guys -
This is sort of important.
I need to drive from
michigan to chicago tomorrow (~300miles) and I need to
know if it's safe to do so.
I think I have a bad wheel
bearing. Symptoms:
1. I can hear a wobling sound at higher speeds (say
40+). I can't pinpoint where it's coming from - it just
seems to fill
the car.
2. Just now I noticed a high pitched sound coming from
the
front. Now normally i'd think it's a belt noise,
BUT... It's only there when
the car is moving and I can
only hear it from the driver front wheel (i had
someone
drive as i listened). What I don't understand about
that is the
fact that the sound seems to be an on/off
type deal. The second the car
starts moving, it
appears. Also it doesn't seem to get louder as the car
moves faster. It just goes on and stays on at the same
pitch and volume
until the car stops.
Ideas? I need to drive home and need to know if the
car
will last that long. I don't want a wheel coming off on
the highway
@ 80mph.
Once i get home I can park it and fix it, but not until
then.
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 18 Apr 2002 22:23:45
+0000
From:
apedenko@attbi.comSubject: Re: Team3S:
New Mitsu dealership selling parts at wholesale
Interesting... I've had
several dealings with these
people (i live 10 minutes away and bought my car
there). They didn't strike as very friendly. Some bad,
bad
experiences.
So will they do that for all parts? If i have them do
something for me, will they still charge me wholesale?
Alex.
'95 Vr4 (bought from satan)
> An FYI...
>
> Just
wanted to let everyone know I just spoke with Ron (the new parts
>
manager) at Libertyville Mitsubishi in IL about parts and he has agreed
to
> sell to 3Si members for wholesale cost. Their number is
847-816-6660.
>
> Dave 95VR4
>
http://www.daveblack.net***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 18 Apr 2002 17:26:01
-0500
From: "Black, Dave (ICT)" <
dblai@allstate.com>
Subject: Team3S:
RE: New Mitsu dealership selling parts at wholesale
It appears to be
about 33% off - at least from the list prices and parts I
was quoted.
For example:
brake fluid resovoir cap - list ($8.50) - his price
($5.66) = 33% off
underhood insulation - list ($54.86) - his price (36.58) =
33% off
Better than any other place I know of. Let's see if their
parts service can
live up to that of Tallahassee Mitsu.
Dave
95VR4
http://www.daveblack.net-
-----Original Message-----
From: Mark W. Hindelang
[mailto:hindelan@msu.edu]
Sent: Thursday, April 18, 2002 5:16 PM
To:
stealth@stls.verio.netSubject: RE:
New Mitsu dealership selling parts at wholesale
Whole sale... So is this
more than the 25% off?
Mark
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 18 Apr 2002 22:27:44
+0000
From:
apedenko@attbi.comSubject: RE: Team3S:
Need help asap - safety concern
I would, but unfortunately it's not an
option. I'm up
in michigan for school. I need to get my car back home,
and I need to bring a whole bunch of sh*t home. Plus
I'm not 25, so I
can't get a rental.
Thanks for the suggestion, tho
Alex.
> Alex.
>
> I would say park it unless you know exactly
what it is and it is not
> critical (like a warped rotor). A rental
car is only $30 per day and
> puts your life in no danger. I would
say it is safer to not drive it
> ... at least not that far. If
you're real stuck on driving it then
> borrow a fellow MI 3/S car for the
trip or let them drive you. =)
>
> --Flash!
> 1995
VR-4
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 18 Apr 2002 17:29:08
-0500
From: "Black, Dave (ICT)" <
dblai@allstate.com>
Subject: RE:
Team3S: New Mitsu dealership selling parts at wholesale
There is a new
parts manager there - Ron. Very nice guy. Seems very
willing to
work with our group. Seemed to indicate that this would be his
standard
price discount for 3Si members. Wholesale on the parts I just
ordered
came out to about 33% off list price.
Funny thing is that about 6 months
ago I talked to the old parts manager and
he had no interest in any type of
discount. Ron seemed to indicate that was
a reason that he's no longer
there.
Dave 95VR4
http://www.daveblack.net-
-----Original Message-----
From:
apedenko@attbi.com
[mailto:apedenko@attbi.com]
Sent: Thursday, April 18, 2002 5:24 PM
To:
Black, Dave (ICT)
Cc:
'stealth@starnet.net'; Team3s
(E-mail)
Subject: Re: Team3S: New Mitsu dealership selling parts at
wholesale
Interesting... I've had several dealings with these
people
(i live 10 minutes away and bought my car
there). They didn't strike as very
friendly. Some bad,
bad experiences.
So will they do that for all
parts? If i have them do
something for me, will they still charge me
wholesale?
Alex.
'95 Vr4 (bought from
satan)
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 18 Apr 2002 18:33:43
-0400
From: "Darren Schilberg" <
dschilberg@pobox.com>
Subject: RE:
Team3S: More new clutch
Paul,
Congrats. Get
that G-Tech I sold you to use and give us some
numbers, man. Can't help
you on the pixel display though.
As for brakes, just go with
stock solid Porterfield (the Mohler
special) and Porterfield R4 pads all
around (again, from Mohler). Good
basic performance, minimal dusting,
good life. Slotted or drilled are
for running in the rain when you need
to get all that water off the
rotor before the pads will work. It is a
waste for daily driving.
Cryo-treating will get them to last
longer but it is an unproven
science unless someone with a brake dyno can
verify this for us. The
$40 per rotor is best spent purchasing stock
rear pads or applying to
pads in general. Stock rotors should last you
a year or two depending
on driving style. You can get the non-cryo ones
turned anywhere. I've
had some brake shops balk at me cuz they broke a
turning bit or had to
take several passes since it was a little harder than
normal.
SS brake lines just make the pedal firm from application
to the
floor. The lines do not stretch (as much) and pedal feel is firm
and
solid. If you do this with everything else then you will not know
how
it felt differently. If you wait until you put pads and rotors on
and
get used to those then you will know. But it is proven then
increase
brake feel and have less pedal travel. My Goodridge ones came
with my
Big Reds but I think they are down around $200 now. I think
3SX
Performance had them in colors even (but not Goodridge
brand).
Brake fluid? I use Motul 600 (also a Mohler
special) just because it
eliminated any possibility that the brake fluid is
degrading under
normal use. It is the same DOT as stock (
www.motul.com then Products
then Racing then
Car then Brake Fluid then RBF 600 Factory Line). It is
DOT 4 which
works with DOT 3. Don't get into the DOT 5 cuz then you
have DOT 5.1
and people might mix those up. No, I have not done
that
before.
- --Flash!
1995 VR-4
www.schilberg.com***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 18 Apr 2002 17:41:02
-0500
From: "Black, Dave (ICT)" <
dblai@allstate.com>
Subject: RE:
Team3S: New Mitsu dealership selling parts at wholesale - 33% off!
I just
spoke with Ron again and he confirmed that the discount stands at
wholesale
which equates to 33% off! Essentially, the cost is the same that
a
repair shop would pay to get parts from them.
He is going to speak to the
Service Manager, Victor Kelly, about arranging a
discount off of
service. Although I must say that the ratings in my
database
(
http://www.daveblack.net/asp/ProcessSurvey.asp?DealerID=187&ShowAll=1)
for
Libertyville Mitsu's service do not rate very highly.
Best damn
deal around!
Their contact info is: phone 847-816-8660 - fax
847-816-6664.
Dave 95VR4
http://www.daveblack.net***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 18 Apr 2002 18:41:14
-0400
From: "Darren Schilberg" <
dschilberg@pobox.com>
Subject: RE:
Team3S: Need help asap - safety concern
You CAN get a rental but you pay
a slightly higher price. Usually
airports have this all the time but I
don't know about your area.
Don't you have any friends who just enjoy
driving 300 miles in their car
who can drive you places? Sounds like
you need some new friends who do.
<g>
Good luck
regardless.
Aren't U-Haul trucks about $50 a day and give you about
200-250 miles
base? Somehow I don't think I'm helping you,
Alex.
- --Flash!
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 18 Apr 2002 17:43:50
-0500
From: "Black, Dave (ICT)" <
dblai@allstate.com>
Subject: RE:
Team3S: New Propane Injection Kit supplier!
Jim,
I'm sure that
would be the case - I guarantee it will not be a BBQ propane
tank. The
entire setup will be a professionally done custom job for
our
cars.
Dave 95VR4
http://www.daveblack.net-
-----Original Message-----
From: Floyd, Jim
[mailto:Jim_Floyd@maxtor.com]
Sent: Thursday, April 18, 2002 4:14 PM
To:
Team3s (E-mail)
Subject: RE: Team3S: New Propane Injection Kit
supplier!
Dave,
If he is going to design a special tank maybe he
could make it a
shape that would fit our cars better.
Any chance
?
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 18 Apr 2002 16:49:18
-0600
From: "Floyd, Jim" <
Jim_Floyd@maxtor.com>
Subject: RE:
Team3S: New Propane Injection Kit supplier!
Tell him I said thanks
already.
- -----Original Message-----
From: Black, Dave (ICT)
[mailto:dblai@allstate.com]
Sent: Thursday, April 18, 2002 4:44 PM
To:
Team3s (E-mail)
Subject: RE: Team3S: New Propane Injection Kit
supplier!
Jim,
I'm sure that would be the case - I guarantee it
will not be a BBQ propane
tank. The entire setup will be a
professionally done custom job for our
cars.
Dave 95VR4
http://www.daveblack.net***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 18 Apr 2002 18:01:50
-0500
From: "Geisel, Brian" <
Brian.Geisel@COMPAQ.com>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: Need help asap - safety concern
If you want to know what's
safe, the answer is park it now. That aside, let's answer your question
:) I drove 600 mi from Mass to Pittsburgh, PA with a bad wheel bearing,
and no problem. It was probably actually bad for a while before
that. I apparently screwed it up pretty bad doing that, but I had no
problems with it. Yes, I did average speed around 85 or so. I guess
it may depend on how long it's been doing it and how willing you are to risk
it. I'm also under 25, and my answer is usually: Go for it!
:-D
Use the previous advice at your own risk ;)
geis
>
-----Original Message-----
> From:
apedenko@attbi.com
[mailto:apedenko@attbi.com]
> Sent: Thursday, April 18, 2002 6:01
PM
> To:
team3s@team3s.com>
Subject: Team3S: Need help asap - safety concern
>
>
> Hey
guys -
>
> This is sort of important. I need to drive
from
> michigan to chicago tomorrow (~300miles) and I need to
>
know if it's safe to do so.
>
> I think I have a bad
wheel bearing. Symptoms:
> 1. I can hear a wobling sound at higher speeds
(say
> 40+). I can't pinpoint where it's coming from - it just
>
seems to fill the car.
>
> 2. Just now I noticed a high pitched
sound coming from
> the front. Now normally i'd think it's a belt noise,
> BUT... It's only there when the car is moving and I can
> only
hear it from the driver front wheel (i had someone
> drive as i
listened). What I don't understand about
> that is the fact that the
sound seems to be an on/off
> type deal. The second the car starts
moving, it
> appears. Also it doesn't seem to get louder as the car
> moves faster. It just goes on and stays on at the same
> pitch
and volume until the car stops.
>
> Ideas? I need to drive home
and need to know if the car
> will last that long. I don't want a wheel
coming off on
> the highway @ 80mph.
>
> Once i get home I
can park it and fix it, but not until
> then.
>
> thanks,
>
> Alex.
>
> '95 Vr4
***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 18 Apr 2002 16:11:01
-0700
From: Wayne <
whietala@prodigy.net>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: Need help asap - safety concern
At 10:00 PM 4/18/02 +0000,
apedenko@attbi.com wrote:
>Once i
get home I can park it and fix it, but not until
>then.
Sounds like
you already have your mind made up............
Although another option
would be to have it towed.
It's probably pretty expensive, but after all,
what is your car (or your
life) worth to you?
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 18 Apr 2002 18:14:16
-0500
From: "Todd D.Shelton" <
tds@brightok.net>
Subject: Team3S: FOR
SALE: 2 sets of wheels, 1 set of tires
For Sale: Enkei RP0-1 with
or w/o p265 Z rated Pirellis
For Sale: Nearly new lightweight Enkei
RP0-1
17 x 9. Pirelli 700 Z rated P265 40's mounted and
balanced. Less
than 2000 miles on the set. Flawless.
I would like to sell them as a
package but I can use the tires
myself in the future so I'm willing to sell
just the wheels unless
someone wants the wheels and tires.
The Enkei
RP0-1 in 17 x 9 weighs 19-20 lbs
Enkei RP0-1 wheels only : $599 +
shipping
[allow 2 days after payment is received/verified to dismount
tires]
with Pirelli Z rated 265 tires : $999 + shipping [entire package -
mounted,
balanced and ready to bolt on and drive]
Any buyer who wants
the wheels AND the tires [full package] will
receive
precedence.
Email:
tds@brightok.netMore pics on my
website at:
http://www.brightok.net/~tdsI can
also take additional digital pics if requested.
Wheel set # 2:
I
have a set of Adoniz Z-3's
They are forged, Japanese made and no longer
available in the US.
These are top of the line wheels - 17 x 9 more for show
but
do weigh slightly less than stock wheels. 5 spoke stars.
Also
fit 300ZX.
Low mileage and excellent condition.
Pics, info and
pricing is available on my website at:
http://www.brightok.net/~tds/sale.htmlPayPal,
check, money order etc
- - Todd
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 18 Apr 2002 18:32:47
-0500
From: Matt Jannusch <
mjannusch@attbi.com>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: EGR mod was ECU monitoring boost
dakken wrote:
> You
get a cleaner and cooler intake charge and with it more power. The
EGR
> system stands for Exhaust Gas Recirculation. When you seal off
the EGR with
> a plate, you neutralize the system. No more exhaust
gas is recirculated
> into your intake. You also end up with higher
emissions and a car that is
> not street legal. Just like gutting
the pre-cats, there is no way to detect
> this until you go in for an
emissions test.
The EGR valve is closed as soon as you start boosting
(otherwise boost
would leak out through the EGR system), so in reality this
mod does
nothing other than make your car pollute more when cruising around
when
power doesn't matter anyway (since you are limiting power output with
your right foot). It may* keep the plenum portion of the intake a
little cleaner, but a very thin layer of carbon in there isn't going to
affect anything.
Hopefully those plates don't cost more than
$1. You can make them out
of a pop can if you are intent on doing it
for some reason.
It isn't going to hurt anything, but expecting a
performance gain out of
it isn't realistic.
- -Matt
'95 3000GT
Spyder VR4
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 19 Apr 2002 01:55:01
+0200
From: "Roger Gerl" <
roger.gerl@bluewin.ch>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: EGR mod was ECU monitoring boost
The only pro by doing this
is that the intake plenum is not heated up
anymore due to the hot air
traveling the channel to the EGR valve. Nothing
else, no more power at all as
the valve closes in closed loop operation !
Roger
93'3000GT TT
www.rtec.ch> You get a cleaner and
cooler intake charge and with it more power. The
EGR
> system
stands for Exhaust Gas Recirculation. When you seal off the
EGR
with
> a plate, you neutralize the system. No more exhaust
gas is recirculated
> into your intake. You also end up with higher
emissions and a car that is
> not street legal. Just like gutting
the pre-cats, there is no way to
detect
> this until you go in for an
emissions test.
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 18 Apr 2002 20:58:33
-0400
From: "Rodriguez, Elpidio x35617d1" <
x35617@exmail.usma.army.mil>
Subject:
Team3S: Mod Suggestions
Hello! Ever since I rode in my buddy's '95 VR4 as
he smoked a Camaro
SS(which is the cream of the crop as far as Camaros go),
I've wanted one
myself. Well, I just bought a 1994 Black VR4. Aside from
really expensive
spark plugs and wires, the car is bone stock. I will be
modifying it this
summer when I get back to it (it's parked in Texas while
I'm up here in NY).
I have $1500 for this, maybe $2000 if I sacrifice a few
weekends worth of
partying down in South Padre Island :) Anyways, being that
I am new to these
cars, I wanted to ask all the "veteran" owners here what
they suggest for
modifcations. My goal is to get the car somewhere in the
400HP range,the
more the better :) Can this be done with my budget? Thanks in
advance.
- -ROD
P.S. I can't remember who it was, but whoever
suggested checking out the
wheel bearings for the rumbling noise my car was
making, thanks alot. You
saved me a bundle, as I was just going to buy the
whole axle. My brother
took the car in to check the bearings, and sure enough
the rear ones were
going bad. I had him replace the bearings on all 4 wheels
and he said the
noise is gone. Thanks.
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 18 Apr 2002 20:01:48
-0500
From: "michael sweet" <
msweet@neb.rr.com>
Subject: Team3S:
engine dress up
Hey all,
I'd like to dress up my engine so it
looks nice and pretty, but I'm not sure
what products are available. I have a
1993 Stealth ES. Anyone have
suggestions?
Thanks!
Michael
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 18 Apr 2002 21:07:24
EDT
From:
M3000GTSL84@aol.comSubject: Team3S:
rear wiper annoyance!
Most of the time, my rear wiper skips across the
hatch glass instead of
cleaning it nice and smooth. ive put on new wipers,
tightened every both i
can think of. . but still no luck, and its getting
pretty screechy on my ears
after 2 years. any1 have any
suggestions?
mike-
97 SL
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 18 Apr 2002 22:47:54
EDT
From:
DonBrando36@aol.comSubject: Team3S:
cooling engine
has anyone thought about having our engine
fan stay on all the time? Wouldnt
that help our performance alittle
bit? Would the fan burn out if we did
that? How would it be able to
stay on all the time, any electrical experts?
Or what about a 160
degree thermistat?
brandon
93 3000GT n/a
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 18 Apr 2002 22:56:19
-0400
From: "Dennis and Anita Moore" <
stealth@quixnet.net>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: rear wiper annoyance!
What brand of wipers are you using?
I've had very little chatter with Bosch
MicroEdge. They cost a bit more
than most, but the squeegee quite nicely.
Also, the cleaner your window, the
less chatter you'll have. Try giving it
a really good
cleaning.
Dennis Moore
93 Stealth ES
- ----- Original Message
-----
From: <
M3000GTSL84@aol.com>
To: <
team3s@stealth-3000gt.st>
Sent:
Thursday, April 18, 2002 9:07 PM
Subject: Team3S: rear wiper
annoyance!
Most of the time, my rear wiper skips across the hatch glass
instead of
cleaning it nice and smooth. ive put on new wipers, tightened
every both i
can think of. . but still no luck, and its getting pretty
screechy on my
ears
after 2 years. any1 have any
suggestions?
mike-
97 SL
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 18 Apr 2002 20:01:15
-0700
From: Wayne <
whietala@prodigy.net>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: rear wiper annoyance!
I removed the arm and motor, and put a
rubber body plug in the hole.
Rain-X does the rest..........
At 09:07
PM 4/18/02 -0400,
M3000GTSL84@aol.com
wrote:
>Most of the time, my rear wiper skips across the hatch glass
instead of
>cleaning it nice and smooth. ive put on new wipers, tightened
every both i
>can think of. . but still no luck, and its getting pretty
screechy on my ears
>after 2 years. any1 have any
suggestions?
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 18 Apr 2002 23:38:44
-0400
From: "Darren Schilberg" <
dschilberg@pobox.com>
Subject: RE:
Team3S: Mod Suggestions
Needless to say ... how many miles are on it, how
hard was it driven,
etc? Get a mechanic to look it over and yes this
will cost $200 but a
good shop will know if the clutch needs replaced, water
pump has been
changed, etc. If not then that is $500 that you will need
for the 60k
or the 100-120k tune-up.
And before we go further you will
soon realize that at times not many
cars can hold a candle to us and other
times we get toasted on the track
by a Honda Civic on slicks. Just pick
your battles wisely. If you were
ever to take your stock VR-4 to a
Camaro SS on a rainy day then you
would have him easy. Take him on a
dry day through twists and turns and
you will smoke him something
fierce. When you want to have fun then
spend $300 on a High Performance
Driving Event and get some professional
instruction. Then you will be
able to smoke modded 5.0 Mustangs, C5
Vettes, Trans-Ams, Camaros, etc. quite
easily (depending on the
situation of course).
Then there is the
infamous 2nd gear synchro that will start grinding or
the entire tranny
sometimes. That can be up to $5,000 for a whole
remanufactured rebuild
unless you get parts from places like Kormex.
Visit Jeff Lucius' page (
www.stealth316.com) for the most
comprehensive
pages for our cars.
You need to save your money I say
and sit on the car until you find out
what does not work on it (transmission
is expensive, the AWD and
suspension components get pricey, any work in the
engine since you have
two of many components).
To be blunt, no it can
not be done on that budget. The veteran can do a
lot of mods on their
own that takes a new person some money before they
learn how to do it.
If you have a great shop who won't gouge you for
price then yet it is
possible but it will most likely just be a boost
controller (up to about 15
psi or adding roughly 60 hp) and a straighter
exhaust and gutting some
pre-cats. That will add another 50-75 hp maybe
and get you near 400 hp
and still be mostly stock.
I would just say start meek and get some good
tires, you got spark plugs
and wires, make sure belts, water pump, tranny,
clutch, and flywheel are
all in sound shape. Getting one done might
cost $500 but once it works
then it will run strong for at least 60k.
You MUST either have a
warranty on these cars or have some cash lying around
for when something
breaks. Remember that a tow means a flatbed with all
4 wheels off the
ground (for the AWD folks) and that gets pricey
itself.
- --Flash!
1995 VR-4
www.schilberg.com- -----Original
Message-----
From: Rodriguez, Elpidio x35617d1
Sent: Thursday, April 18,
2002 20:59
Hello! Ever since I rode in my buddy's '95 VR4 as he
smoked a Camaro
SS(which is the cream of the crop as far as Camaros go), I've
wanted one
myself. Well, I just bought a 1994 Black VR4. Aside from
really
expensive
spark plugs and wires, the car is bone stock. I will be
modifying it
this
summer when I get back to it (it's parked in Texas while
I'm up here in
NY).
I have $1500 for this, maybe $2000 if I sacrifice a
few weekends worth
of
partying down in South Padre Island :) Anyways,
being that I am new to
these
cars, I wanted to ask all the "veteran"
owners here what they suggest
for
modifcations. My goal is to get the car
somewhere in the 400HP range,the
more the better :) Can this be done with my
budget? Thanks in advance.
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 19 Apr 2002 00:00:12
-0400
From: "Darren Schilberg" <
dschilberg@pobox.com>
Subject: RE:
Team3S: engine dress up
Silicone vacuum hose kits. Some are
available from HostTechniques
(
www.hosetechniques.com) and some from
Summit Racing and others are buy
what length you need and DIY.
That
makes it look fantastic but it is a little back-breaking as you
are
constantly leaning over the car and working on hoses that are 8
years
old and really stuck on well.
I did just about a third of my
engine this way and it looks sharp (spark
plug wires are red from Magnecor
and then silicone lines on coolant
overflow tube, covering cruise control
cable/throttle cable area, things
like windshield washer hoses, etc. Do
only low pressure or vacuum
hoses. Do not replace ones like the PCV or
brake booster hose as these
have check valves in them and will not work with
a simple hose.
Other things that are common are cleaning and then
painting or powder
coating the plenum, the front spark plug plate cover,
etc. If you get
hold of Gathering pages then you can get a good
assortment of what
people do to their engines. East Coast is a good one
for example,
www.geocities.com/ecg2k1hooters/,
as it has a good selection of stock,
modded, partly modded, etc.
cars.
- --Flash!
1995 VR-4
- -----Original
Message-----
From: michael sweet
Sent: Thursday, April 18, 2002
21:02
I'd like to dress up my engine so it looks nice and pretty, but I'm
not
sure
what products are available. I have a 1993 Stealth ES. Anyone
have
suggestions?
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 18 Apr 2002 21:14:34
-0700
From: "Andrew D. Woll" <
awoll1@pacbell.net>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: rear wiper annoyance!
Here's a great tip - clean the window with
OOOO steel wool. It won't
scratch. Use windex or similiar stuff as a
lubricant. You won't believe how
clean the window will be.
Andy
-
-----Original Message-----
From: Dennis and Anita Moore <
stealth@quixnet.net>
To:
team3s@stealth-3000gt.st <
team3s@stealth-3000gt.st>
Date:
Thursday, April 18, 2002 7:55 PM
Subject: Re: Team3S: rear wiper
annoyance!
>What brand of wipers are you using? I've had very
little chatter with
Bosch
>MicroEdge. They cost a bit more than
most, but the squeegee quite nicely.
>Also, the cleaner your window, the
less chatter you'll have. Try giving it
>a really good
cleaning.
>
>Dennis Moore
>93 Stealth ES
***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 18 Apr 2002 21:15:21
-0700
From: Rick Pierce <
piercera@pacbell.net>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: engine dress up
There's a great guy on 3Si who does both
powdercoating and polishing of the
Valve Cover, Plenum and other related
parts - name is Dave Best (IIRC Dave
is on this board at times as
well). I was the first one to have him do the
powdercoating option - I
chose "bright red" to match the Caracas Red of my
VR - came out perfect ( I
get compliments on it all the time). He's quite
reasonable for both if
you don't have the time, tools or artistic talent (I
only have the
tools).
Here's his link:
http://web.tmos.org/~afortier/DBest/Michael
- e-mail me off-line if you want a picture, but I think Dave's site
has all
you should need
- ----- Original Message -----
From: "michael sweet"
<
msweet@neb.rr.com>
To: <
Team3S@stealth-3000gt.st>
Sent:
Thursday, April 18, 2002 6:01 PM
Subject: Team3S: engine dress up
>
Hey all,
>
> I'd like to dress up my engine so it looks nice and
pretty, but I'm not
sure
> what products are available. I have a 1993
Stealth ES. Anyone have
> suggestions?
>
> Thanks!
>
Michael
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 19 Apr 2002 08:09:17
-0400
From: "MB" <
profilevr4@nj.rr.com>
Subject:
Team3S: Front wheel stud replacement question.
Has anyone ever replaced
any of the wheel studs on the front wheels
themselves, particularly on a
VR4.
I was just wondering what's involved. Can I do it with the hub
assembly on
the car or does it require require removal and
dissassembly?
Thanks in advance,
Michael Bulaon
***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 19 Apr 2002 08:43:09
-0500
From: "Black, Dave (ICT)" <
dblai@allstate.com>
Subject: RE:
Team3S: New Mitsu dealership selling parts at wholesale - 33% off!
I made
a typo in the phone number in the last email - their number
is
847-816-6660.
Dave 95VR4
http://www.daveblack.net-
-----Original Message-----
From: Black, Dave (ICT)
Sent: Thursday, April
18, 2002 5:41 PM
To:
'stealth@starnet.net'Cc: Team3s
(E-mail)
Subject: RE: Team3S: New Mitsu dealership selling parts at wholesale
-
33% off!
I just spoke with Ron again and he confirmed that the
discount stands at
wholesale which equates to 33% off! Essentially, the
cost is the same that
a repair shop would pay to get parts from
them.
He is going to speak to the Service Manager, Victor Kelly, about
arranging a
discount off of service. Although I must say that the
ratings in my
database
(
http://www.daveblack.net/asp/ProcessSurvey.asp?DealerID=187&ShowAll=1)
for
Libertyville Mitsu's service do not rate very highly.
Best damn
deal around!
Their contact info is: phone 847-816-8660 - fax
847-816-6664.
Dave 95VR4
http://www.daveblack.net-
-----Original Message-----
From: Black, Dave (ICT)
Sent: Thursday, April
18, 2002 5:29 PM
To:
'apedenko@attbi.com'Cc:
'stealth@starnet.net'; Team3s
(E-mail)
Subject: RE: Team3S: New Mitsu dealership selling parts at
wholesale
There is a new parts manager there - Ron. Very nice
guy. Seems very
willing to work with our group. Seemed to
indicate that this would be his
standard price discount for 3Si
members. Wholesale on the parts I just
ordered came out to about 33%
off list price.
Funny thing is that about 6 months ago I talked to the
old parts manager and
he had no interest in any type of discount. Ron
seemed to indicate that was
a reason that he's no longer there.
Dave
95VR4
http://www.daveblack.net***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 19 Apr 2002 09:21:58
-0500
From: "Geisel, Brian" <
Brian.Geisel@COMPAQ.com>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: cooling engine
Typically the engine thermostat
is designed to operate the engine at its peak operating temperature. I
wouldn't expect running the fan all the time to help... For example, I believe
to have a stuck-open thermostat right now, and it's causing the engine to
over-cool. Def. doesn't feel any stronger this way.
What you
do want is a cooler intake... anything to get that air cooler, but you don't
necessarily want the engine any cooler.
geis - Somebody fix me if I'm
just smok'n weed here
> -----Original Message-----
> From:
DonBrando36@aol.com
[mailto:DonBrando36@aol.com]
> Sent: Thursday, April 18, 2002 10:48
PM
> To:
team3S@stealth-3000gt.st>
Subject: Team3S: cooling engine
>
> has anyone thought about
having our engine fan stay on all
> the time? Wouldnt
> that
help our performance alittle bit? Would the fan burn
> out if we
did
> that? How would it be able to stay on all the time, any
>
electrical experts?
> Or what about a 160 degree
thermistat?
>
> brandon
> 93 3000GT n/a
***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 19 Apr 2002 10:33:49
-0400
From: "Furman, Russell" <
RFurman2@MassMutual.com>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: cooling engine
No Bri, you are correct too cold and you are
not making any more power same
with oil too cold and its not as
effective.
If that concerned about better cooling, get and aluminum
radiator from PPE,
Bozz Speed, etc...... Throw in some Red Line
water wetter and instead of
running a 50/50 mix run say a 60/40 or
70/30 (water to coolant mix)
NOTE ON THE ABOVE: if you live
somewhere where it gets below freezing you
WILL HAVE TO change this mixture
in late April (to the 60/40 or 70/30) and
then in late September have to
change back to the 50/50 mix to prevent
freezing.
Allot of the listers
on MKIV have done this and found that they get 2-3
degrees more timing
advance but again one more thing you have to remember to
change on the
car.
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Geisel, Brian
[SMTP:Brian.Geisel@COMPAQ.com]
> Sent: Friday, April 19, 2002 10:22
AM
> To:
DonBrando36@aol.com;
team3S@stealth-3000gt.st>
Subject: RE: Team3S: cooling engine
>
> Typically the engine
thermostat is designed to operate the engine at its
> peak operating
temperature. I wouldn't expect running the fan all the
> time to
help... For example, I believe to have a stuck-open thermostat
> right
now, and it's causing the engine to over-cool. Def. doesn't feel
>
any stronger this way.
>
> What you do want is a cooler
intake... anything to get that air cooler,
> but you don't necessarily
want the engine any cooler.
>
> geis - Somebody fix me if I'm just
smok'n weed here
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 19 Apr 2002 07:37:48
-0700
From: "fastmax" <
fastmax@cox.net>
Subject: Re: Team3S:
cooling engine
Running the fan all the time wouldn't have
any significant effect --- it would pull
cooler air into the engine
compartment but only when stopped with the engine
running. When moving the
air temp in the engine compartment drops to about
10º above
ambient.
It would have no affect on the water temp since that is
controlled by the thermostat
regardless of the amount of air moving over the
radiator.
Geis is right --- IAT [ intake air temp ] is the one thing that
should be cooled. The
problem is of course space ---- hood vents have been
used but a sealed cold air
system has not been developed
yet.
Jim
Berry
=================================================
- -----
Original Message -----
From: "Geisel, Brian" <
Brian.Geisel@COMPAQ.com>
>
Typically the engine thermostat is designed to operate the engine at its peak
operating temperature. I wouldn't expect running
the fan all the time
to help... For example, I believe to have a stuck-open thermostat right now, and
it's causing the engine to
over-cool. Def. doesn't feel any stronger
this way.
>
> What you do want is a cooler intake... anything to get
that air cooler, but you don't necessarily want the engine any
cooler.
>
> geis - Somebody fix me if I'm just smok'n weed
here
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 19 Apr 2002 08:57:29
-0700
From: "Gross, Erik" <
erik.gross@intel.com>
Subject: RE:
Team3S: engine dress up
<stuff about SVH>
> Do not replace
ones like the PCV or brake booster
> hose as these have check valves in
them and will
> not work with a simple hose.
AFAIK, the only lines
you have to worry about are the brake and clutch
booster vacuum lines.
They do have check valves in them and should not be
replaced with a hose that
doesn't have a check valve. None of my PCV hoses
had any sort of check
valve in it, so I replaced all of mine with SVH.
- --Erik
'95
VR-4
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 19 Apr 2002 12:09:26
-0400
From: "Darren Schilberg" <
dschilberg@pobox.com>
Subject: RE:
Team3S: engine dress up
Ummm, Erik? The PCV hose HAS to have a
check valve in it. That it its
sole purpose. Better go get a
replacement at Pep Boys buddy.
- --Flash!
1995 VR-4
***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 19 Apr 2002 09:18:56
-0700
From: "Pete" <
pbozanich@hotmail.com>
Subject:
Team3S: low boost
Ive still got problems with the boost. I took the car
to the local
dealership here in Bakersfield. They have a guy thats pretty
knowledgeable
with our cars, he worked on it all day yesterday, and were
still not exactly
sure whats wrong. We by passed the waste gates and only got
7lbs of boost.
With everything hooked up it will only generate 5lbs, but they
just will not
spool up. weve checked all the vaccum lines the intercooler
pipes, timing
etc. it all seems fine. So Im thinking its turbo time. The
motor has about
80,000 miles but the turbos have 120,000. They don't smoke, I
just don't
what else it could be. By the way isn't there a group buy going on
for
turbos right now? And my next question is which ones. The mods Ive done
so
far is K&N filter, Stillen down pipe, Borla exhaust, turbo xs BOV,
Blitz
SBCID, Magnecor 100mm wires, Iridium Denso Plugs, Intrax Lowering
springs,
Supra fuel pump, Strut bar front. Im not ready to take it to the
track yet
(need to get to the brakes). But I drive the car pretty much
everyday, so I
want it to be reliable. I was thinking the 13Gs. Thanks for
your help.
Pete,
91 VR4
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 19 Apr 2002 11:23:10
-0500
From:
cewillis@TexasChildrensHospital.orgSubject:
RE: Team3S: engine dress up
Wrongo. The PCV valve is a check valve.
The PCV hose is a straight hose.
Chuck Willis
> -----Original
Message-----
> From: Darren Schilberg [SMTP:dschilberg@pobox.com]
>
Sent: Friday, April 19, 2002 11:09 AM
> To: 'Team3S List (E-mail)'
>
Subject: RE: Team3S: engine dress up
>
> Ummm, Erik? The PCV
hose HAS to have a check valve in it. That it its
> sole
purpose. Better go get a replacement at Pep Boys buddy.
>
>
--Flash!
> 1995 VR-4
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 19 Apr 2002 11:25:07
-0500
From:
cewillis@TexasChildrensHospital.orgSubject:
RE: Team3S: low boost
could you have a leak in one of the
intercoolers?
Chuck Willis
> We by passed the waste gates and
only got 7lbs of boost.
> With everything hooked up it will only generate
5lbs, but they just will
> not
> spool up. weve checked all the
vaccum lines the intercooler pipes, timing
> etc. it all seems
fine.
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 19 Apr 2002 11:26:47
-0500
From: "S. J Cowan" <
sjc0u812@juno.com>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: engine dress up
Gentlemen:
> Wrongo. The PCV
valve is a check valve. The PCV hose is a straight
> hose.
All
well and good, but read the directions and ask Hose Techniques.
PCV
hose is a no no for SVH -- anything that may have oil in it is a no no.
Cover those instead.
SJ
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 19 Apr 2002 10:05:08
-0700
From: "Gross, Erik" <
erik.gross@intel.com>
Subject: RE:
Team3S: engine dress up
> PCV hose is a no no for SVH -- anything that
may have oil in it
> is a no no. Cover those instead.
I don't have
the instructions that came with the kit with me, but IIRC, it
said that hoses
that occasionally get some oil/vapors in them are ok to
replace with SVH, but
in general, they weren't meant to carry liquids. The
one liquid
exception is the coolant overflow line. I'll check the paperwork
I have
at home on the PCV issue... glad I saved all my stock hoses :-)
-
--Erik
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 19 Apr 2002 11:00:08
-0700
From: Dean Benz <
dbenz@usa.net>
Subject: Re: [Team3S: Front
wheel stud replacement question.]
Just did all 10 last week for my new
spacers.
Sorry, the hub assembly has to come off, but it isn't to bad of
a job. Clean
your ABS sensors while you are there, mine were covered in crud
and
corrosion.
The four nuts holding the hub/bearing assembly in place
are the hardest part.
My fat Craftsman wrenches required me to nudge the axle
in and out to get on
and off the nuts well, but no big deal. Leave them on
protecting the end of
the threads and tap them in order with a soft mallet to
release the bearing.
The all you have to do is pop out the old one(s) and
press in the new.
Good luck.
- -Dean
"MB" <
profilevr4@nj.rr.com> wrote:
>
Has anyone ever replaced any of the wheel studs on the front wheels
>
themselves, particularly on a VR4.
>
> I was just wondering what's
involved. Can I do it with the hub assembly on
> the car or does it
require require removal and dissassembly?
>
> Thanks in
advance,
> Michael Bulaon
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 19 Apr 2002 11:09:59
-0700
From: Damon Rachell <
damonr@mefas.com>
Subject: Re: Team3S:
Front wheel stud replacement question.
It's a piece of cake to remove,
but time consuming. I had to replace
all 5 on each side to install my
H&R 5mm spacer (needs longer studs).
Procedure is straight
forward:
remove wheel
remove caliper and rotor
remove the 4 nuts on the
back of the hub. takes time cuz it's tight
back there but they'll come
off easy enough.
Once the 4 nuts are gone, carefully slid off the hub holding
the axle
straight. Careful not to damage the ABS ring inside.
Once
the hub's removed, use a 2X2 block of hard wood as a base for the
assenmbly
to sit on. Place another block over 1 of the studs and pound
with a
hammer. The stud will fall out.
Getting the new studs in is easy.
Get a washer and a 12X1.25 (or is
1.5) nut. start tightening.
You'll know when it's tight.
Reinstall carefully. I usually like to
inject some grease into the
bearing while it's off, just for safe
keeps.
Hope this helps.
Damon
MB wrote:
> Has anyone
ever replaced any of the wheel studs on the front wheels
> themselves,
particularly on a VR4.
>
> I was just wondering what's involved.
Can I do it with the hub assembly on
> the car or does it require require
removal and dissassembly?
>
> Thanks in advance,
> Michael
Bulaon
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 19 Apr 2002 11:11:22
-0700
From: Damon Rachell <
damonr@mefas.com>
Subject: Re: Team3S:
low boost
As someone mentined before, try running a leak test looking for
either
IC leaks or somewhere else in the system. It's possible that
there's a
crack in the IC or elsewhere in the system. Not sure who
does this or
where to get it done, but I know that it is
possible.
Good luck
Damon
Pete wrote:
> Ive still got
problems with the boost. I took the car to the local
> dealership here in
Bakersfield. They have a guy thats pretty knowledgeable
> with our cars,
he worked on it all day yesterday, and were still not exactly
> sure whats
wrong. We by passed the waste gates and only got 7lbs of boost.
> With
everything hooked up it will only generate 5lbs, but they just will not
>
spool up. weve checked all the vaccum lines the intercooler pipes,
timing
> etc. it all seems fine. So Im thinking its turbo time. The motor
has about
> 80,000 miles but the turbos have 120,000. They don't smoke, I
just don't
> what else it could be. By the way isn't there a group buy
going on for
> turbos right now? And my next question is which ones. The
mods Ive done so
> far is K&N filter, Stillen down pipe, Borla
exhaust, turbo xs BOV, Blitz
> SBCID, Magnecor 100mm wires, Iridium Denso
Plugs, Intrax Lowering springs,
> Supra fuel pump, Strut bar front. Im not
ready to take it to the track yet
> (need to get to the brakes). But I
drive the car pretty much everyday, so I
> want it to be reliable. I was
thinking the 13Gs. Thanks for your help.
>
> Pete,
> 91
VR4
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 19 Apr 2002 14:39:42
-0400
From: Anthony Melillo <
anthonymelillo3@comcast.net>
Subject:
Team3S: anyone ever try the new Fram Sure Drain kit ?
I recently
purchased a new kit that is supposed to replace the Oil Drain Plug and make it
much easier to change the oil. It is made
by Fram, and is called Sure
Drain.
Has anyone tried this yet ? I am attaching some text from
their web page. You can get the whole story with pictures on the
Fram
Web site, at
http://www.fram.com, and
click on the Sure Drain logo on the left.
I am just afraid that if the
valve some how opens, I will loose all my oil, and blow the engine. Maybe
I am just being overly
protective of my car.
Text from web site
-
--------------------------
FRAM SureDRAIN
Fast Access Oil Change
System
Introducing the new, easier way to change your oil. Now you can drain
your oil with no tools, no mess and no hot oil on your hands
with the
revolutionary new SureDRAIN Fast Access Oil Change System brought to you by the
trusted name in filters.FRAM.
Now you can have instant access to your oil
with just a turn of the wrist!
Proprietary SureDRAIN Valve - this
unique, heavy duty Actuator Valve is precision engineered to permanently replace
your existing
oil drain plug and allow instant oil access and
draining.
Twist on Drain Hose - Designed for fast, easy, twist on
operation, the heavy duty FRAM drain hose starts the flow of oil
directly
into your receptacle with the turn of your wrist.
Added
Protection Dust Cover - To keep the SureDRAIN valve free from road dirt and safe
from undercarriage debris, the ultra-rugged
SureDRAIN dust cover locks firmly
into place until the next oil change. Like all SureDRAIN parts, this dust cover
has been tested
against leaks, corrosion, vibration and road damage.
-
------------------
end of web site text
Anthony
Melillo
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 19 Apr 2002 12:50:38
-0600
From: "Floyd, Jim" <
Jim_Floyd@maxtor.com>
Subject: RE:
Team3S: cooling engine
Here is the radiator option from one of our fellow
owners - PPE.
http://www.geocities.com/motorcity/street/2928/radiator.htm-
-----Original Message-----
From: Furman, Russell
[mailto:RFurman2@MassMutual.com]
Sent: Friday, April 19, 2002 8:34 AM
To:
team3S@stealth-3000gt.stSubject:
RE: Team3S: cooling engine
No Bri, you are correct too cold and you are
not making any more power same
with oil too cold and its not as
effective.
If that concerned about better cooling, get and aluminum
radiator from PPE,
Bozz Speed, etc...... Throw in some Red Line
water wetter and instead of
running a 50/50 mix run say a 60/40 or
70/30 (water to coolant mix)
NOTE ON THE ABOVE: if you live
somewhere where it gets below freezing you
WILL HAVE TO change this mixture
in late April (to the 60/40 or 70/30) and
then in late September have to
change back to the 50/50 mix to prevent
freezing.
Allot of the listers
on MKIV have done this and found that they get 2-3
degrees more timing
advance but again one more thing you have to remember to
change on the
car.
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 19 Apr 2002 14:55:47
-0400
From: "Furman, Russell" <
RFurman2@MassMutual.com>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: cooling engine
Thanks Jim, but I have the updated/new link
from Paul Jr. at home :p
Their Radiator + FMIC is on the buy
list especially now that I found out my
motor is suffering some bad blow
by :( I am in the middle of trying to
get a JDM motor with
6SPD so I can kill several birds with one bullet
(Bigger Turbos, 6SPD
conversion, and a newer motor)
Everyone pray for me..... Just
trying to get the heads off I ended up
throwing tools around :/