Team3S: 3000GT & Stealth Thursday, April 18
2002 Volume 01 : Number
815
----------------------------------------------------------------------
Date:
Wed, 17 Apr 2002 16:36:12 EDT
From:
Bennyanderson@cs.comSubject: Re:
Team3S: 3000GT & Stealth V1 #814
Hello all. This is my first
post to the list and have a few minor problems
with the car that you guys
might be able to help me with. I've just purchased
a 1992 Stealth R/T TT,
Emerald Green, cream leather interior, 136,000 miles.
First off the car runs
fast and hard, no smoke; full boost in all gears etc.
My problem is with 2nd
gear in the transaxle. It grinds when I try to shift
fast under hard
acceleration. It shifts just fine if you keep the RPM's under
3500. But if I
run it hard in first and let the RPM's come back down it will
also shift
fine. I'm thinking synchronizer?
By the
way I have just received my service manuals. They don't mention
this problem
at all.
Anyway, I'm happy to be aboard
with "The Team" and hopefully I can
meet some of you in the near
future.
Thanks,
Benny
92 Stealth R/T
TT
73 Challenger Rallye
340
01 Ram HO Cummins 6spd
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 17 Apr 2002 14:45:01
-0600
From: "Floyd, Jim" <
Jim_Floyd@maxtor.com>
Subject: RE:
Team3S: 3000GT & Stealth V1 #814
You can get new synchros at
www.kormextrans.com- -----Original
Message-----
From:
Bennyanderson@cs.com
[mailto:Bennyanderson@cs.com]
Sent: Wednesday, April 17, 2002 2:36 PM
To:
owner-team3s@team3s.com;
team3s-digest@mail.speedtoys.comSubject:
Re: Team3S: 3000GT & Stealth V1 #814
Hello all. This is my
first post to the list and have a few minor problems
with the car that
you guys might be able to help me with. I've just
purchased
a 1992
Stealth R/T TT, Emerald Green, cream leather interior, 136,000
miles.
First off the car runs fast and hard, no smoke; full boost in all
gears etc.
My problem is with 2nd gear in the transaxle. It grinds when I
try to shift
fast under hard acceleration. It shifts just fine if you keep
the RPM's
under
3500. But if I run it hard in first and let the RPM's
come back down it will
also shift fine. I'm thinking synchronizer?
By the way I have just received my
service manuals. They don't
mention
this problem at
all.
Anyway, I'm happy to be aboard with
"The Team" and hopefully I can
meet some of you in the near
future.
Thanks,
Benny
92 Stealth R/T
TT
73 Challenger Rallye
340
01 Ram HO Cummins 6spd
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 17 Apr 2002 16:50:24
EDT
From:
Bennyanderson@cs.comSubject: Re:
Team3S: 3000GT & Stealth V1 #814
Thanks Jim, but I was really
hoping you weren't going to tell me that(lol).
I'm hoping the thing will
hold together for at least a couple of months and
it probably will with my
fiancee' driving it(she doesn't have the same morbid
fascination with speed
that I do).
Benny
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 17 Apr 2002 20:57:32
+0000
From:
apedenko@attbi.comSubject: Re: Team3S:
3000GT & Stealth V1 #814
The grinding is rather unpleasant, but not
overly
dangerous. What'll happen is it will get progressively
worse.
It'll start grinding more when cold, when not
engaged just right etc. I've
had grinding since pretty
much day one - i've put on ~ 10k with the same
problem.
You can try and prolong its life by being nicer to it
(if at
all possible ;) and by double clutching - that
makes things much better.
Just be aware of the fact
that at least one list member had his transfer
case
lock up as he was making a turn causing him to get into
an
accident. This is something you should definitely
take care of, and soon,
but it can wait a while longer.
Alex
'95 Vr4 waiting for a tranny
transplant
> Thanks Jim, but I was really hoping you weren't going
to tell me that(lol).
> I'm hoping the thing will hold together for at
least a couple of months and
> it probably will with my fiancee' driving
it(she doesn't have the same morbid
> fascination with speed that I
do).
>
> Benny
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 17 Apr 2002 14:07:35
-0700
From: Damon Rachell <
damonr@mefas.com>
Subject: Re: Team3S:
3000GT & Stealth V1 #814
Hi Benny and welcome aboard.
To ease your
mind, I've been driving my 92 R/T TT for well over a year
with a blown 3rd
gear synchro. I race my car 4-5 times a year, and the
tranny still
hasn't given me any reasons to believe that there's any
additional problems
besides the syncrho. To get into gear easier, you
should do a search
on double clutching and rev matching. These two
techniques will help
you get into gear with out the grinding. Plus,
they're useful
techniques to know anyways.
FYI, often when at redline in 2nd and about
to make a pass at the track,
double clutching doesn't quite cut it, so I do
jam it into gear. No
this isn't good, but the point is that 3rd gear
is still fine and the
rest of the tranny is still fine. So, you've got
some months of driving
with the tranny in this condition. The synchros
are a very well known
downside to these cars. All years.
So,
good luck with the car and have a great time smoking those
stangs!
Damon
Bennyanderson@cs.com
wrote:
> Thanks Jim, but I was really hoping you weren't going
to tell me that(lol).
> I'm hoping the thing will hold together for at
least a couple of months and
> it probably will with my fiancee' driving
it(she doesn't have the same morbid
> fascination with speed that I
do).
>
> Benny
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 17 Apr 2002 17:06:02
EDT
From:
Bennyanderson@cs.comSubject: Re:
Team3S: 3000GT & Stealth V1 #814
Thanks Damon. I drive a 60,000
lb Mack concrete pump for a living so I
understand what double-clutching is
even though I don't do it.
Benny
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 17 Apr 2002 16:19:27
-0500
From: "Geisel, Brian" <
Brian.Geisel@COMPAQ.com>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: 3000GT & Stealth V1 #814
Hey, while we're on the topic, I
lost 1st and 2nd gears while racing last Wednesday. (actually 2nd while
racing, 1st in the pits). I put the stick where 1st used to be, and just
hear the faint echo of gears wishing they could engage when releasing the
clutch.
Is it worthwhile to have the tranny fixed?
I've heard 3k
for a used tranny, what are the prices like from kormex, and will they rebuild
as it currently is?
Thanx,
geis
- -----Original
Message-----
From: Floyd, Jim [mailto:Jim_Floyd@maxtor.com]
Sent:
Wednesday, April 17, 2002 4:45 PM
To:
'Bennyanderson@cs.com';
owner-team3s@team3s.com;
team3s-digest@mail.speedtoys.comSubject:
RE: Team3S: 3000GT & Stealth V1 #814
You can get new synchros at
www.kormextrans.com- -----Original
Message-----
From:
Bennyanderson@cs.com
[mailto:Bennyanderson@cs.com]
Sent: Wednesday, April 17, 2002 2:36 PM
To:
owner-team3s@team3s.com;
team3s-digest@mail.speedtoys.comSubject:
Re: Team3S: 3000GT & Stealth V1 #814
Hello all. This is my
first post to the list and have a few minor problems
with the car that
you guys might be able to help me with. I've just
purchased
a 1992
Stealth R/T TT, Emerald Green, cream leather interior, 136,000
miles.
First off the car runs fast and hard, no smoke; full boost in all
gears etc.
My problem is with 2nd gear in the transaxle. It grinds when I
try to shift
fast under hard acceleration. It shifts just fine if you keep
the RPM's
under
3500. But if I run it hard in first and let the RPM's
come back down it will
also shift fine. I'm thinking synchronizer?
By the way I have just received my
service manuals. They don't
mention
this problem at
all.
Anyway, I'm happy to be aboard with
"The Team" and hopefully I can
meet some of you in the near
future.
Thanks,
Benny
92 Stealth R/T
TT
73 Challenger Rallye
340
01 Ram HO Cummins 6spd
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 17 Apr 2002 15:23:27
-0600
From: "Floyd, Jim" <
Jim_Floyd@maxtor.com>
Subject: RE:
Team3S: 3000GT & Stealth V1 #814
Rebuilt tranny about
$1,700.00
New is $2,000.00
$250.00 shipping
$750.00 core
charge.
- -----Original Message-----
From: Geisel, Brian
[mailto:Brian.Geisel@COMPAQ.com]
Sent: Wednesday, April 17, 2002 3:19
PM
To: Floyd, Jim;
Bennyanderson@cs.com;
owner-team3s@team3s.com;
team3s-digest@speedracer.speedtoys.comSubject:
RE: Team3S: 3000GT & Stealth V1 #814
Hey, while we're on the topic, I
lost 1st and 2nd gears while racing last
Wednesday. (actually 2nd while
racing, 1st in the pits). I put the stick
where 1st used to be, and
just hear the faint echo of gears wishing they
could engage when releasing
the clutch.
Is it worthwhile to have the tranny fixed?
I've heard
3k for a used tranny, what are the prices like from kormex, and
will they
rebuild as it currently is?
Thanx,
geis
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 17 Apr 2002 17:43:35
-0400
From: Anthony Melillo <
anthonymelillo3@comcast.net>
Subject:
Team3S: GReddy Oil Catch Tank from Dynamic Racing
I am interested in the
Greddy Oil Catch tank for my 1997 VR-, that I saw on Dynamic Racing's Web site
under Engine Appearance, to
eliminate the oil buildup in the intake,
but was wondering where in the engine bay would I mount this ?
Also, what
is the difference between the hose sizes ? Does it come with the necessary
hoses and instructions ?
I have tried for a week to contact Dynamic
Racing Directly, but they do not return email, and I haven't had time to call
yet.
Any help will be appreciated. Thank you
Anthony
Melillo
1997 VR-4, Firestorm Red
http://mywebpages.comcast.net/anthonymelillo3/3000gt.htm***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 17 Apr 2002 23:45:52
+0200
From: "Roger Gerl" <
roger.gerl@bluewin.ch>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: testpipe effects and fuel cooler
- ----- Original Message
-----
From: "Zach Sauerman" <
axemaddock@hotmail.com>
To:
<
Team3S@stealth-3000gt.st>
Sent:
Wednesday, April 17, 2002 2:39 AM
Subject: Team3S: testpipe effects and fuel
cooler
> Good evening everyone. I have two questions tonight.
>
The first is about a fuel cooler. A buddy of mine is installing one on
a
'68
> Camaro. It hasnt arrived yet, but from what I gather it is a
generic
little
> cooler that fuel goes in, is air cooled, and moves
on.
And how much cools it down the fuel and how is it controlled to
prevent
overfreezing what can generate condensing water in the fuel line waht
is
obviously bad for the injectors, filter and FPR.
> running the
larger turbos and injectors and are concerned with knock.
Then install
Water Injection.
> My second question concerns the effects testpipes
actually have on our
cars.
None if the precats are still there. The
stock main cat is already big and
doesn't mean a big restriction.
>
I installed mine and love the new sound, but question the performance.
The
> car doesn't seem to accelerate as quickly.
It can be easier
said as some did it before : The pressure difference
between infront and
after the turbine wheels is what causes the thing to
spool. The lower the
pressure in the pipe after the turbien wheel the better
the spool up and the
better accelleration. Therefore the precats must go to
gain real performance.
The main cat is even no restriction when having the
car above the 400hp mark
(mine without and another with the cat, both with
Borla cat
back)
Roger
93'3000GT TT
www.rtec.ch*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 17 Apr 2002 23:37:05
+0200
From: "Roger Gerl" <
roger.gerl@bluewin.ch>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: low boost
> A little over a week ago. I had GT PRO install
a Blitz SBCID boost
> controller, we also installed a BOV, supra pump,
plugs, magnecore 100
wires,
> gages,and intrax springs. The car ran
really good for about 4 to 5 days.
On what boost level ? What did the
peak show ?
> the car will only run up to 3 pounds of boost. It runs
fine but the turbos
> won't spool up. Last night I put everything back to
stock
What have you done to the stock boost solenoid
?
Roger
93'3000GT TT
www.rtec.ch*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 17 Apr 2002 23:27:25
+0200
From: "Roger Gerl" <
roger.gerl@bluewin.ch>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Engine I cant get no 6 cyl.
Hans, I guess nobody understands
your question. You may reformat your
question.
Roger
93'3000GT
TT
www.rtec.ch- ----- Original
Message -----
From: "Hans Hortin" <
hanshortin@37.com>
To: <
team3S@stealth-3000gt.st>
Sent:
Tuesday, April 16, 2002 12:39 PM
Subject: Team3S: Engine I cant get no 6
cyl.
> Hello
>
> When i started the car after a garagetime
only 5 cyl is ok.
> Tried everything and the problem is when the car is
out in foggy
> wheater.~When its cold and hot everything is ok.
>
Everything works.
>
> Any suggestion?
>
>
Hans
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 17 Apr 2002 23:32:50
+0200
From: "Roger Gerl" <
roger.gerl@bluewin.ch>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: knock in 1st gear, but not 2nd or 3rd?
At idle the engine is
not under load and therefore doesn't move a lot if
any. Under load, i.e. the
tranny coupled via the clutch the stuff moves
more. I noticed this having the
car on the dyno with the hood open. When in
1st gear and pushing the gas down
quickly the engine moved up on the left
side. Id did much less in the other
gears. Just my observation. Due to this
movement the knock sensor may pick up
some "klunks" or whatever and the
logger may show this as knock. This is the
case on my Camaro as I see knock
in 1st and 2nd when the tires find their
grip. Not a lot but it's there.
IMHO the motor moutnsare hard to change,
especially the rear one.
Roger
93'3000GT TT
www.rtec.ch- ----- Original Message
-----
From: "Andrew Woll" <
awoll1@pacbell.net>
To: "Roger Gerl"
<
roger.gerl@bluewin.ch>;
"team3/S"
<
team3S@stealth-3000gt.st>
Sent:
Tuesday, April 16, 2002 2:54 PM
Subject: Re: Team3S: knock in 1st gear, but
not 2nd or 3rd?
> Hi Roger: Can you explain how motor mounts can
cause knock in first gear?
> Will it cause a noise at idle also? I
have a noise at idle and first that
I
> thought was valve tick, but I
have never been able to get rid of it. It
> drives me crazy. Maybe it is
caused by motor mounts. How hard are they to
> replace?
>
>
Andy
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 17 Apr 2002 23:35:07
+0200
From: "Roger Gerl" <
roger.gerl@bluewin.ch>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: New Propane Injection Kit supplier!
Another one driving
around with a bomb on board. For track purposes yes, but
on the streets,
....
Sorry, I think this stuff is too dangerous when the bottle is opened
in a
driving car. Just my opinion.
Roger
93'3000GT TT
www.rtec.ch> This topic is being
expanded from a very hot thread on 3Si. My neighbor
> owns a company
called "Fire 'em Up" that specializes in propane and
> conversions to
either full propane or adding propane injection. I know
that
>
Dynamic Racing is currently selling Propane Injection kits.
***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 17 Apr 2002 18:17:47
EDT
From:
BHurvitz@aol.comSubject:
Team3S: Need help/Air conditioning not working
When I put on my Air
conditioning in my 91 Dodge TT all the display lights
appear to
function. But I get warm air. It does not sound like the compressor
is going
on, but all my fuses appear OK. Could it be a freon problem or
something
else. An ideas to track down the problem would be appreciated.
Thanks for
any help in advance
Bob 91TT
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 17 Apr 2002 17:19:30
-0500
From: "Black, Dave (ICT)" <
dblai@allstate.com>
Subject: RE:
Team3S: New Propane Injection Kit supplier!
Roger,
Just for
clarification - I do not have the Propane injection kit and I
highly doubt
that I would have it installed once available from my neighbor.
I don't feel
safe at all about it either.
I was merely offering an additional
contact to those interested in
purchasing the kits since the topic has been
so hot on 3Si.
Dave 95VR4
http://www.daveblack.net-
-----Original Message-----
From: Roger Gerl
[mailto:roger.gerl@bluewin.ch]
Sent: Wednesday, April 17, 2002 4:35 PM
To:
Team3s (E-mail)
Subject: Re: Team3S: New Propane Injection Kit
supplier!
Another one driving around with a bomb on board. For track
purposes yes, but
on the streets, ....
Sorry, I think this stuff is
too dangerous when the bottle is opened in a
driving car. Just my
opinion.
Roger
93'3000GT TT
www.rtec.ch> This topic is being
expanded from a very hot thread on 3Si. My neighbor
> owns a company
called "Fire 'em Up" that specializes in propane and
> conversions to
either full propane or adding propane injection. I know
that
>
Dynamic Racing is currently selling Propane Injection kits.
***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 17 Apr 2002 18:26:43
-0400
From: "Joshua G. Prince" <
joshua@unconundrum.com>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: New Propane Injection Kit supplier!
Roger propane is MUCH
safer then gasoline! Why do you think so many
states have
promotions right now to switch your vehicle over to propane?
Because it is a
lot better for the environment and safer to run in
vehicles. Propane is
NO nitrous.
Joshua Prince
97 1/2 Fly Yellow Hummer
Convertible
3SI#0136
Microsoft Certified System Engineer
Joshua@Unconundrum.com -
-----Original Message-----
From: Roger Gerl
[mailto:roger.gerl@bluewin.ch]
Sent: Wednesday, April 17, 2002 5:35 PM
To:
Team3s (E-mail)
Subject: Re: Team3S: New Propane Injection Kit
supplier!
Another one driving around with a bomb on board. For
track purposes yes,
but
on the streets, ....
Sorry, I think this
stuff is too dangerous when the bottle is opened in
a
driving car. Just my
opinion.
Roger
93'3000GT TT
www.rtec.ch> This topic is being
expanded from a very hot thread on 3Si. My
neighbor
> owns a
company called "Fire 'em Up" that specializes in propane and
> conversions
to either full propane or adding propane injection.
I
know
that
> Dynamic Racing is currently selling Propane Injection
kits.
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 17 Apr 2002 15:29:00
-0700
From: "Riyan Mynuddin" <
riyan@hotpop.com>
Subject: Team3S:
starting problem - runs off starting fluid only :(
Hello all,
It's
me Riyan. I'm sure some of you guys remember my stealth.
Here's the
website for it.
www.advantedgecomputing.com/stllow/stealth.htmI've
swapped out most of the ignition system and changed the fuel pump. It
starts!
But it only runs off of starting fluid. I know the fuel pump works,
because
when I disconnect the hose and crank, fuel squirts out. The fuel
does manage
to reach the injector bar in front of the intercooler too,
because when I
pulled off the line there, I see the fuel coming out.
Nevertheless, when I
stop squirting the starting fluid, the engine dies. Any
ideas on where to
check next? Injector? Solenoids? Regulator? Any help would
be greatly
appreciated.
Riyan
93 stealth rt tt
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 17 Apr 2002 18:56:01
-0400
From: "Bill vp" <
billvp@highstream.net>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: knock in 1st gear, but not 2nd or 3rd?
so should I just
ignore knock that shows up in 1st gear and worry more about
any knock that is
present in the gears with higher loads (i.e. 3rd)?
- -----Original
Message-----
From:
owner-team3s@team3s.com
[mailto:owner-team3s@team3s.com]On Behalf
Of Roger Gerl
Sent: Wednesday,
April 17, 2002 5:33 PM
To: team3/S
Subject: Re: Team3S: knock in 1st gear,
but not 2nd or 3rd?
At idle the engine is not under load and therefore
doesn't move a lot if
any. Under load, i.e. the tranny coupled via the clutch
the stuff moves
more. I noticed this having the car on the dyno with the hood
open. When in
1st gear and pushing the gas down quickly the engine moved up
on the left
side. Id did much less in the other gears. Just my observation.
Due to this
movement the knock sensor may pick up some "klunks" or whatever
and the
logger may show this as knock. This is the case on my Camaro as I see
knock
in 1st and 2nd when the tires find their grip. Not a lot but it's
there.
IMHO the motor moutnsare hard to change, especially the rear
one.
Roger
93'3000GT TT
www.rtec.ch*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 17 Apr 2002 16:10:48
-0700
From: "fastmax" <
fastmax@cox.net>
Subject: Re: Team3S:
New Propane Injection Kit supplier!
I think the concern is having the
propane tank in the car.
Propane is explosive while nitrous isn't [ it would
be dangerous
if it leaked into a closed car ]. Most states require propane
to
be mounted outside of the vehicle, or at least external to
the
cab.
Externally mounted propane is probably less dangereous than
gasoline in the event of an accident.
I'll probably go with propane
but I'm thinking of mounting it in a
small sealed fuel cell vented to the
outside of the car.
Jim
Berry
===========================================
- ----- Original Message
-----
From: "Joshua G. Prince" <
joshua@unconundrum.com>
To:
"Roger Gerl" <
roger.gerl@bluewin.ch>; "Team3s
(E-mail)" <
Team3S@stealth-3000gt.st>
Sent:
Wednesday, April 17, 2002 3:26 PM
Subject: RE: Team3S: New Propane Injection
Kit supplier!
> Roger propane is MUCH safer then gasoline!
Why do you think so many
> states have promotions right now to switch your
vehicle over to propane?
> Because it is a lot better for the environment
and safer to run in
> vehicles. Propane is NO nitrous.
>
> Joshua Prince
> 97 1/2 Fly Yellow Hummer
Convertible
> 3SI#0136
> Microsoft Certified System Engineer
>
Joshua@Unconundrum.com>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Roger Gerl
[mailto:roger.gerl@bluewin.ch]
> Sent: Wednesday, April 17, 2002 5:35
PM
> To: Team3s (E-mail)
> Subject: Re: Team3S: New Propane
Injection Kit supplier!
>
> Another one driving around with a
bomb on board. For track purposes yes,
> but
> on the streets,
....
>
> Sorry, I think this stuff is too dangerous when the bottle
is opened in
> a
> driving car. Just my opinion.
>
>
Roger
> 93'3000GT TT
>
www.rtec.ch*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 17 Apr 2002 16:22:35
-0700
From: Andrew Woll <
awoll1@pacbell.net>
Subject: Team3S:
Starting difficulty
It sure sounds like something is preventing gas from
getting to the
injectors. Have you checked for a crimped hose. If not a
crimped hose then
it sounds like there is a foreign body in the line and it
is blocking the
fuel. That is about all it can
be.
Andy
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 17 Apr 2002 19:54:42
-0400
From: "Darren Schilberg" <
dschilberg@pobox.com>
Subject: RE:
Team3S: failed emissions
In our state (PA) they make your car sit until
it cools down to
eliminate any cheating you can do by driving hard before
pulling in to
the place. They also situate them not on a long straight
stretch of
road but 5 miles in to twisty turny places with school zones
and
slow-moving vehicles. I think they have caught on.
Also,
with the new system here in PA since a few years ago they do what
is referred
to as "transmit" your test result to the state. That's
right, they
email it. Who would think technology could be used like
this
(sarcasm). So then when you go to another place and try to get by
they
type in the VIN and up comes three reports that you failed in the
last two
days.
It is getting less and less easy to pass inspection/emission simply
by
purchasing a case of beer for the mechanics.
- --Flash!
1995
VR-4
Emission-required county
- -----Original Message-----
From:
gtg509d@prism.gatech.eduSent:
Wednesday, April 17, 2002 15:39
Hello Everyone,
I recently
moved to a county that requires emissions testing and I
failed the
test. I have a stock '91 Stealth R/T (24 valve DOHC) with
no
modifications
yet. I read throught the archives to get some tips
(after the fact) - I
was
driving around the highway and streets before I
got to the place, but
had to
wait 10-15 minutes before I was
tested. The guy at the testing place
said from
the results it was
either the catalytic converter or the EGR. Can I
check
these
myself, or do one of those additives/driving hard methods work in
most
cases?
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 17 Apr 2002 20:09:03
-0400
From: "Darren Schilberg" <
dschilberg@pobox.com>
Subject: RE:
Team3S: Tires are different sizes, OK???
Good point. Hadn't
considered this. I always buy mine in sets anyway
but it has to be for
the AWD kind. I bet even the same model and brand
will be off by 0.10
if they are from different lots. I register my
tires and it requires me
to find the 10-digit number. That tells the
manufacturer, if there is a
problem, what shift or what plant or what
batch of rubber was used. All
useful in case of a tire blowout I guess.
- --Flash!
1995
VR-4
Pirelli P-Zero summer tires
Bridgestone Blizzak winter
tires
Yokohama A-032 track tires
- -----Original Message-----
From:
Furman, Russell
Sent: Wednesday, April 17, 2002 08:20
As an
addendum to this, do not mix brands of tires or models of the
brands
on an
AWD car. I am in the middle of doing a little research but
it
turns
out the tires OD can fluctuate .10 or more depending on the
model/brand.
So when changing tires go with exact same type at all
four corners and
wear
over the life of the tire is not a huge concern due
to the fact that
that
fluctutation is less.05 for most W rated or better
tires.
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 17 Apr 2002 17:40:08
-0700
From: "dakken" <
dougusmagnus@attbi.com>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Need help/Air conditioning not working
There are several
things to look for. First you should check the magnetic
clutch.
Do do this according to the repair manual as follows:
1. Disconnect
the wiring to the magnetic clutch.
2. Connect batter (+) voltage
directly to the wiring for the magnectic
clutch.
3. If the magnetic
clutch is normal, there will be a "click." If the
pulley and armature
do not make contact ("click"), there is a malfunction.
Next you should
check your sight glass. It is on the drivers side right
behind the
headlight. Clean the glass first. Start your car. Turn on
your
air conditioning on max cool and the blower on high. Let is run
for a few
minutes like this and then with it still running check the
glass:
1. If the sight glass is clear, the magnetic clutch engaged,
the compressor
discharge line is warm and the compressor inlet line is cool;
the system has
a full charge.
2. If the sight glass is clear,
the magnetic clutch is engaged and there is
no significant temperature
difference between the inlet and discharge lines;
the system has lost some
refrigerant.
3. If the sight glass shows foam or bubbles, the
system could be low on
charge.
If you don't have any refridgerant then
you will have to go to a shop to
have it fixed. There is no way to fix
an air conditioning leak at home. At
least no legal way. Air
conditioning repairs are not cheap. Good luck.
Doug
92 Stealth
RT TT
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 17 Apr 2002 17:59:36
-0700
From: Wayne <
whietala@prodigy.net>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: starting problem - runs off starting fluid only :(
Sounds like
you may have a bad (or unplugged) resistor.
The big silver thing on the
firewall next to the solenoids.
Measure the resistance between the red wire
and any/all of the others.
At 03:29 PM 4/17/02 -0700, Riyan Mynuddin
wrote:
>Hello all,
>
>I've swapped out most of the ignition
system and changed the fuel pump. It
>starts! But it only runs off of
starting fluid. I know the fuel pump works,
>because when I disconnect the
hose and crank, fuel squirts out. The fuel
>does manage to reach the
injector bar in front of the intercooler too,
>because when I pulled off
the line there, I see the fuel coming out.
>Nevertheless, when I stop
squirting the starting fluid, the engine dies. Any
>ideas on where to
check next? Injector? Solenoids? Regulator? Any help would
>be greatly
appreciated.
>
>Riyan
>93 stealth rt tt
***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 17 Apr 2002 21:13:57
-0500
From: Matt Jannusch <
mjannusch@attbi.com>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: Starting difficulty
Andrew Woll wrote:
> It sure sounds
like something is preventing gas from getting to the
> injectors. Have you
checked for a crimped hose. If not a crimped hose then
> it sounds like
there is a foreign body in the line and it is blocking the
> fuel. That is
about all it can be.
...or the injectors aren't injecting. Since he
was getting fuel out of
the fuel pressure regulator bypass I'd vote on
something more along the
lines of a bad crank angle sensor or a bad
ECU. If the CAS is bad, no
fuel will be injected.
-
-Matt
'95 3000GT Spyder VR4
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 17 Apr 2002 22:18:23
-0400 (EDT)
From:
gtg509d@prism.gatech.eduSubject:
Team3S: RE: Team 3S: failed emissions
Hello
again,
Just to give a little bit of clarification with my problem passing
emissions -
the car is a '91, but it only has 44k miles. The part that
it didn't pass is
the NO-ppm - it read 1772, allowable is 821. How do
I know if something's
wrong with the cat or with the EGR (exhaust gas
recycling)? - these are two
things they said might be wrong considering the
part it failed.
Thanks,
Michael
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 17 Apr 2002 21:22:57
-0700 (PDT)
From: menalteed <
menalteed@yahoo.com>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: starting problem - runs off starting fluid only :(
Maybe this is
to simple but have you checked the 15
amp fuse in the car that is marked
engine, if that
fuse is out the car will not run. Sometime even if a
fuse
looks good it can be out so check it with a
voltage meter or simple twelve
volt light tester.
Peter
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 17 Apr 2002 21:34:53
-0700
From: "Erik Petterson" <
erikpetterson@yahoo.com>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Tires are different sizes, OK???
Ok, well it seems to
be fine... No vibration or wobble or anything. I have
a new
question now: I know the tire/wheel options based on what will fit
was
discussed in great length about 2 months ago on the list. I just
want
to know if I have to compensate for anything different due to my car
being a
n/a FWD. I have the crappy stock 15 inch wheels and I would
like to upgrade
to a set of 17's and put some wider tires on them. Also
I will be
installing new shocks on all 4 corners, probably the 1" lower
ones. Just
wanted to know if anyone else has been able to fit 17's on a
N/A FWD? And
any suggestions are welcome!
Thanks,
-
-Erik
'91 Stealth
- ----- Original Message -----
From: "Andrew
Woll" <
awoll1@pacbell.net>
To:
"Erik Petterson" <
erikpetterson@yahoo.com>
Sent:
Wednesday, April 17, 2002 7:22 AM
Subject: Re: Team3S: Tires are different
sizes, OK???
> Erik: Since your drive axle is on the front only
you should have no
> problems continuing with the odd ball tire. The car
won't handle perfectly
> but keeping the tire on will not cause any damage
to anything. Question =
> don't you have a sams club or schwab tire
around? In that size you can
> probably get 4 new tires instralled for
under 300.
>
> Andy
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 18 Apr 2002 00:27:17
-0500
From: "cody" <
overclck@satx.rr.com>
Subject: RE:
Team3S: Tires are different sizes, OK???
I fit 20's on
mine...
Not for driving.. just being bored at work...
Drove them
around the parking lot, down the street, etc... They fit...
but its
tight...
17's are easy, so are 18's and 19's
- -Cody
-
-----Original Message-----
From:
owner-team3s@team3s.com
[mailto:owner-team3s@team3s.com] On Behalf
Of Erik Petterson
Sent:
Wednesday, April 17, 2002 11:35 PM
To: Stealth List; Andrew Woll
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Tires are different sizes, OK???
Ok, well it seems to be
fine... No vibration or wobble or anything. I
have
a new
question now: I know the tire/wheel options based on what
will
fit
was discussed in great length about 2 months ago on the
list. I just
want
to know if I have to compensate for anything
different due to my car
being a
n/a FWD. I have the crappy stock 15
inch wheels and I would like to
upgrade
to a set of 17's and put some
wider tires on them. Also I will be
installing new shocks on all 4
corners, probably the 1" lower ones.
Just
wanted to know if anyone else
has been able to fit 17's on a N/A FWD?
And
any suggestions are
welcome!
Thanks,
- -Erik
'91 Stealth
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 18 Apr 2002 00:36:33
-0600
From: "Matt Monett" <
matt@dynamicracing.com>
Subject:
Team3S: Re: GReddy Oil Catch Tank from Dynamic Racing
hello, I have had
some problems with my E-mail
Either kit will work, it is just up to you
on what size hose you want to
run, I am running the 15mm hose kit on my
car:) the 9mm hose is a bit small
(about 1/3rd") the tank is the
same...
Matt
- ----- Original Message -----
From: "Anthony Melillo" <
anthonymelillo3@comcast.net>
To:
"3000GT List Submissions" <
Stealth@stls.verio.net>; "Team 3S
List
Submissions" <
Team3S@stealth-3000gt.st>
Sent:
Wednesday, April 17, 2002 3:43 PM
Subject: GReddy Oil Catch Tank from Dynamic
Racing
> I am interested in the Greddy Oil Catch tank for my 1997 VR-,
that I saw
on Dynamic Racing's Web site under Engine Appearance,
to
> eliminate the oil buildup in the intake, but was wondering where in
the
engine bay would I mount this ?
>
> Also, what is the
difference between the hose sizes ? Does it come with
the necessary
hoses and instructions ?
>
> I have tried for a week to
contact Dynamic Racing Directly, but they do
not return email, and I haven't
had time to call yet.
>
> Any help will be appreciated. Thank
you
> Anthony Melillo
> 1997 VR-4, Firestorm Red
>
http://mywebpages.comcast.net/anthonymelillo3/3000gt.htm***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 18 Apr 2002 11:00:44
+0200
From: Roger Gerl <
roger.gerl@bluewin.ch>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: knock in 1st gear, but not 2nd or 3rd?
Nono, I don't ignore
any knock and will search for the cause as good as
possible. Any knock is
not good as this would retard the timing when over
about 11 sums or so. This
is not good performance wise and the cause should
be
solved.
Roger
93'3000GT TT
www.rtec.chAt 18:56 17.04.2002 -0400, Bill
vp wrote:
>so should I just ignore knock that shows up in 1st gear and
worry more about
>any knock that is present in the gears with higher loads
(i.e. 3rd)?
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 18 Apr 2002 05:09:04
-0400
From: "Tim & Marina Furbush" <
furbush4@netzero.net>
Subject:
Team3S: Tension pully (no brainer)
I can't get it to tighten or loosen,
the bolt unscrews but it don't move.
I'm I missing
something.
Tim
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 18 Apr 2002 08:20:42
-0400
From: "Gil Gomes" <
gil@3kgt.com>
Subject: Team3S:
Whooooshhhh!!!!
I've got a '96 VR4 with a K&N FIPK and a Borla
CatBack. Other than that,
it's mechanically stock... (aside from
replacing the stock hoses with
silicon)
I few months ago I noticed a
LOUD whooshing sound on acceleration. It
sounded like air being jammed
through the FIPK. I had the mechanic check it
out and he said that
seemed to be what it was. This has contined all this
time.
Performance seemed unaffected. This morning the noise
peculiarly
ceased. Performance is STILL just fine, thanx... I'm not
fond of situations
that turn themselves on and off... any
ideas????
Thanx...
- -G
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 18 Apr 2002 09:35:58
EDT
From:
RDO26@aol.comSubject:
Team3S: Mitsubishi Engines Article
I came across this page and thought
it might shed some light on the design,
history and possibly future of our
engines. Has anyone seen or read this
article in it's entirety? I'm
interested to know what the rest says, but
thought I'd check to see if
anyone has come across this article before.
http://www.autospeed.co.nz/A_0307/page1.html?src=suggestionsI
will probably become a member in order to read the whole thing, but if
anyone already has this PDF, please let me know.
I also notice that
there is an interesting review of a Mits called the Magna
VR-X running a 3.5
V6. It appears to be in 180 degree orientation to ours and
has a
single overhead cam per bank, but it still seems to put out some
good
numbers and interestingly looks to have a TT type intake manifold
rather than
the NA type runners. Lastly, there is mention of a Mits supplied
LSD coming
down the pike:
http://www.autospeed.com/A_0660/page1.htmlThere
is also a DIY AFC method article for larger injectors using an air
bypass
around the MAS or potentiometers. Granted, it sounds like a really
easy way
to blow up you engine, but interesting nonetheless:
http://www.autospeed.co.nz/A_0008/page1.html?src=twr
Ron
(Still wondering what CC my green top
injectors are...)
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 18 Apr 2002 08:39:57
-0500
From:
cewillis@TexasChildrensHospital.orgSubject:
RE: Team3S: RE: Team 3S: failed emissions
EGR is Exhaust Gas
Recirculation. There is an EGR valve on the firewall
side of the intake
manifold plenum. You have to disconnect it when you
remove the plenum.
Some people replace it with a metal plate. There are
three cats on the
car, a main cat and two pre-cats. Some people gut these
cats to impore
performance. You can tell if they have been gutted by tapping
on
them.
BTW: WIth only 44K miles, but 12 years of age, your car is likely
to have
aging rubber hose and belts.
Chuck Willis
>
-----Original Message-----
> From:
gtg509d@prism.gatech.edu
[SMTP:gtg509d@prism.gatech.edu]
> Sent: Wednesday, April 17, 2002 9:18
PM
> To:
Team3S@stealth-3000gt.st>
Subject: Team3S: RE: Team 3S: failed emissions
>
>
Hello again,
>
> Just to give a little bit of clarification with my
problem passing
> emissions -
> the car is a '91, but it only has
44k miles. The part that it didn't pass
> is
> the NO-ppm -
it read 1772, allowable is 821. How do I know if something's
>
> wrong with the cat or with the EGR (exhaust gas recycling)? - these
are
> two
> things they said might be wrong considering the part it
failed.
>
> Thanks,
> Michael
***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 18 Apr 2002 09:08:34
-0500
From: "Geisel, Brian" <
Brian.Geisel@COMPAQ.com>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: Whooooshhhh!!!!
Yeah, it's a pretty regularly heard sound out
of an FIPK. Someone once described it as a combination of a bellowing blue
whale and an upset wookie. Apparently changing the blow-off valve fixes
it, but I've found it seems to resonate at certain accelerations, so for street
driving, I just add or decrease acceleration, and I've forgotten my car even
does it ;)
geis
- -----Original Message-----
From: Gil Gomes
[mailto:gil@3kgt.com]
Sent: Thursday, April 18, 2002 8:21 AM
To:
Team3S
Subject: Team3S: Whooooshhhh!!!!
I've got a '96 VR4 with a
K&N FIPK and a Borla CatBack. Other than that,
it's mechanically
stock... (aside from replacing the stock hoses with
silicon)
I
few months ago I noticed a LOUD whooshing sound on acceleration.
It
sounded like air being jammed through the FIPK. I had the mechanic
check it
out and he said that seemed to be what it was. This has
contined all this
time. Performance seemed unaffected. This
morning the noise peculiarly
ceased. Performance is STILL just fine,
thanx... I'm not fond of situations
that turn themselves on and off... any
ideas????
Thanx...
- -G
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 18 Apr 2002 08:15:24
-0600
From: "Floyd, Jim" <
Jim_Floyd@maxtor.com>
Subject: RE:
Team3S: New Propane Injection Kit supplier!
Are there any tanks available
other than the ones used for camping ?
- -----Original
Message-----
From: Roger Gerl [mailto:roger.gerl@bluewin.ch]
Sent:
Wednesday, April 17, 2002 3:35 PM
To: Team3s (E-mail)
Subject: Re: Team3S:
New Propane Injection Kit supplier!
Another one driving around with a
bomb on board. For track purposes yes, but
on the streets, ....
Sorry,
I think this stuff is too dangerous when the bottle is opened in a
driving
car. Just my opinion.
Roger
93'3000GT TT
www.rtec.ch> This topic is being
expanded from a very hot thread on 3Si. My neighbor
> owns a company
called "Fire 'em Up" that specializes in propane and
> conversions to
either full propane or adding propane injection. I know
that
>
Dynamic Racing is currently selling Propane Injection kits.
***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 18 Apr 2002 10:16:39
-0400
From: "Furman, Russell" <
RFurman2@MassMutual.com>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: Mitsubishi Engines Article
As far as a MAS bypass, a MKIV
owner (Bryce Danna) has already done this to
one of the supra's he
owned. He simply ran some SVH around the MAF and then
had G-Force remap
his ECU to adjust for the 720 cc injectors he was running.
For fine tuning of
the fuel curve I believe he used a Fields SFC and later
down the line swapped
it out for a HKS AFR (due to its idle correction
factor
function).
> -----Original Message-----
> From:
RDO26@aol.com [SMTP:RDO26@aol.com]
> Sent:
Thursday, April 18, 2002 9:36 AM
> To:
team3s@stealth-3000gt.st>
Subject: Team3S: Mitsubishi Engines Article
>
> I came across this
page and thought it might shed some light on the
> design, history and
possibly future of our engines. Has anyone seen or
> read this article in
it's entirety? I'm interested to know what the rest
> says, but thought
I'd check to see if anyone has come across this article
> before.
>
http://www.autospeed.co.nz/A_0307/page1.html?src=suggestions>
> There is also a DIY AFC method article for larger injectors using an
air
> bypass around the MAS or potentiometers. Granted, it sounds like a
really
> easy way to blow up you engine, but interesting
nonetheless:
>
http://www.autospeed.co.nz/A_0008/page1.html?src=twr
>
> Ron
> (Still wondering what CC my green top injectors
are...)
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 18 Apr 2002 07:25:40
-0700 (PDT)
From: Geoff Mohler <
gemohler@www.speedtoys.com>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: Mitsubishi Engines Article
Although interesting, it isnt a
proper solution.
Its a duct tape mod. Its not pretty, yet it does
work, and yannow..just
purchasing the right part would just look and feel so
much better in the
end.
YMMV.
On Thu, 18 Apr 2002, Furman,
Russell wrote:
> As far as a MAS bypass, a MKIV owner (Bryce Danna)
has already done this to
> one of the supra's he owned. He simply
ran some SVH around the MAF and then
> had G-Force remap his ECU to adjust
for the 720 cc injectors he was running.
> For fine tuning of the fuel
curve I believe he used a Fields SFC and later
> down the line swapped it
out for a HKS AFR (due to its idle correction
> factor function).
>
> > -----Original Message-----
> > From:
RDO26@aol.com [SMTP:RDO26@aol.com]
> >
Sent: Thursday, April 18, 2002 9:36 AM
> > To:
team3s@stealth-3000gt.st> >
Subject: Team3S: Mitsubishi Engines Article
> >
> > I came
across this page and thought it might shed some light on the
> >
design, history and possibly future of our engines. Has anyone seen or
>
> read this article in it's entirety? I'm interested to know what the
rest
> > says, but thought I'd check to see if anyone has come across
this article
> > before.
> >
http://www.autospeed.co.nz/A_0307/page1.html?src=suggestions>
>
> > There is also a DIY AFC method article for larger injectors
using an air
> > bypass around the MAS or potentiometers. Granted, it
sounds like a really
> > easy way to blow up you engine, but
interesting nonetheless:
> >
http://www.autospeed.co.nz/A_0008/page1.html?src=twr
> >
> > Ron
> > (Still wondering what CC my green
top injectors are...)
- ---
Geoff Mohler
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 18 Apr 2002 10:32:18
-0400
From: "Furman, Russell" <
RFurman2@MassMutual.com>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: Mitsubishi Engines Article
In actuality on the MKIV's it
works fine if only going up to 660-720
injectors. Bryce D was the first to do
it but several others have done it
also. Only one of the people who
have done it have had any real issues(he
tried to run 850's though)
As far as looks go you simply run 2 hoses from in front of the MAF
to
directly behind it, Bryce simply ran those 2 hoses beneath the MAF
and
unless you really looked hard it looked like stock... Well other
than the
huge TO4R staring at you :)
> -----Original
Message-----
> From: Geoff Mohler
[SMTP:gemohler@www.speedtoys.com]
> Sent: Thursday, April 18, 2002 10:26
AM
> To: Furman, Russell
> Cc:
'RDO26@aol.com';
team3s@stealth-3000gt.st>
Subject: RE: Team3S: Mitsubishi Engines Article
>
> Although
interesting, it isnt a proper solution.
>
> Its a duct tape
mod. Its not pretty, yet it does work, and yannow..just
> purchasing
the right part would just look and feel so much better in the
>
end.
>
> YMMV.
>
> On Thu, 18 Apr 2002, Furman,
Russell wrote:
>
> > As far as a MAS bypass, a MKIV owner (Bryce
Danna) has already done this
> to
> > one of the supra's he
owned. He simply ran some SVH around the MAF and
> then
> >
had G-Force remap his ECU to adjust for the 720 cc injectors he was
>
running.
> > For fine tuning of the fuel curve I believe he used a
Fields SFC and
> later
> > down the line swapped it out for a HKS
AFR (due to its idle correction
> > factor function).
> >
> > > -----Original Message-----
> > > From:
RDO26@aol.com [SMTP:RDO26@aol.com]
> >
> Sent: Thursday, April 18, 2002 9:36 AM
> > > To:
team3s@stealth-3000gt.st> >
> Subject: Team3S: Mitsubishi Engines Article
> > >
> >
> I came across this page and thought it might shed some light on the
>
> > design, history and possibly future of our engines. Has anyone seen
or
> > > read this article in it's entirety? I'm interested to know
what the
> rest
> > > says, but thought I'd check to see if
anyone has come across this
> article
> > > before.
>
> >
http://www.autospeed.co.nz/A_0307/page1.html?src=suggestions>
> >
> > > There is also a DIY AFC method article for larger
injectors using an
> air
> > > bypass around the MAS or
potentiometers. Granted, it sounds like a
> really
> > > easy
way to blow up you engine, but interesting nonetheless:
> > >
http://www.autospeed.co.nz/A_0008/page1.html?src=twr
> > >
> > > Ron
> > > (Still wondering
what CC my green top injectors are...)
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 18 Apr 2002 08:08:06
-0700 (PDT)
From: Geoff Mohler <
gemohler@www.speedtoys.com>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: Mitsubishi Engines Article
Im not saying it doesnt work
fine..I dont dont belive the idea of
un-metered air without a proper MAS
removal upgrade..is the right way for
me.
If im gonna ignore the MAS,
time for a MAS-less ECU systetm.
On Thu, 18 Apr 2002, Furman, Russell
wrote:
> In actuality on the MKIV's it works fine if only going up to
660-720
> injectors. Bryce D was the first to do it but several others
have done it
> also. Only one of the people who have done it have
had any real issues(he
> tried to run 850's though)
>
> As
far as looks go you simply run 2 hoses from in front of the MAF to
>
directly behind it, Bryce simply ran those 2 hoses beneath the MAF and
>
unless you really looked hard it looked like stock... Well other than
the
> huge TO4R staring at you :)
- ---
Geoff
Mohler
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 18 Apr 2002 11:47:59
EDT
From:
JayBobski@aol.comSubject: Team3S: ATR
vs. Stillen Downpipe
My stock downpipe front flex section is
corroded and leaking and I'm
considering an aftermarket downpipe. Any
suggestions?
Thanks,
John Janicek 91 VR4
***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 18 Apr 2002 10:50:06
-0500
From: "Black, Dave (ICT)" <
dblai@allstate.com>
Subject: Team3S:
Brake resovoir cap - help
I have been noticing lately that my brake
resovoir cap has been coming loose
almost to the point of coming off.
This especially seems to happen after
hard braking but also does occur under
normal driving/braking.
This doesn't seem to be normal and I'm curious
what the problem could be and
how to fix it. With the cap loose, I
don't want to lose any fluid or have
humidity seep into the brake
system.
Any thoughts? TIA
Dave 95VR4
http://www.daveblack.net***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 18 Apr 2002 09:02:27
-0700
From: Wayne <
whietala@prodigy.net>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: Brake resovoir cap - help
Mitsubishi has been using this type of
reservoir cap for many years....it's
a poor design.
Just replace it along
with the seal.
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 18 Apr 2002 09:12:04
-0700
From: Wayne <
whietala@prodigy.net>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: ATR vs. Stillen Downpipe
I like the stillen very much, but
emissions stations won't like it.
I've heard the ATR is hard to install
because you need to remove the axle
to clear the rear precat
flange.
At 11:47 AM 4/18/02 -0400,
JayBobski@aol.com
wrote:
> My stock downpipe front flex section is corroded
and leaking and I'm
>considering an aftermarket downpipe. Any
suggestions?
>
>Thanks,
>
>John Janicek 91
VR4
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 18 Apr 2002 11:38:48
-0500
From:
cewillis@TexasChildrensHospital.orgSubject:
RE: Team3S: Brake resovoir cap - help
> This doesn't seem to be normal
and I'm curious what the problem could be
> and
> how to fix
it. With the cap loose, I don't want to lose any fluid or have
>
humidity seep into the brake system.
>
[Willis, Charles E.] the
brake reservior cap has a rubber diaphram
that expands to fill the void left
as brake pads wear and the level drops.
there has to be a vent that allows
air to fill up the backside of the
diaphragm. maybe something has
blocked the vent so the diaphram stays
inflated and then pressuring the
bvrake system pops the cap. oughta be
cheap to replace the cap, or just
clean it real good.
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 18 Apr 2002 12:18:19
-0500
From: "S. J Cowan" <
sjc0u812@juno.com>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: ATR vs. Stillen Downpipe
Wayne/John:
> I like the
stillen very much, but emissions stations won't like it.
True -- but they
won't like either of them if you get rid of the main
cat.
;-)
> I've heard the ATR is hard to install because you need to remove
the
> axle
> to clear the rear precat flange.
False.
Not that different than the stock dp.
The ATR is a 3" dp with no flex
sections and does not replace the front
pre-cat, where I believe the Stillen
does have have a flex section and
replaces the front pre-cat. I have
the ATR and it is built like a tank.
Best,
SJ
> At 11:47
AM 4/18/02 -0400,
JayBobski@aol.com
wrote:
>
> > My stock downpipe front flex section is
corroded and leaking and
> I'm
> >considering an aftermarket
downpipe. Any suggestions?
> >
> >Thanks,
> >
>
>John Janicek 91 VR4
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 18 Apr 2002 13:00:16
-0500
From: "Geisel, Brian" <
Brian.Geisel@COMPAQ.com>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: ATR vs. Stillen Downpipe
> Wayne/John:
>
>
> I like the stillen very much, but emissions stations won't like it.
>
> True -- but they won't like either of them if you get rid of the
main
> cat. ;-)
>
>
> The ATR is a 3" dp
with no flex sections and does not replace
> the front
> pre-cat,
where I believe the Stillen does have have a flex section and
> replaces
the front pre-cat. I have the ATR and it is built
> like a
tank.
Crap! So I still have to gut the front pre-cat for the ATR,
huh. :( I want to keep my main cat, so I don't want to go with the
stillen. That kinda stinks. So, do either of these DP's really make
that big of a difference vs. stock even if you've gutted the pre-cats and used
the stock DP?
geis
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 18 Apr 2002 13:04:25
-0500
From: "Black, Dave (ICT)" <
dblai@allstate.com>
Subject: RE:
Team3S: ATR vs. Stillen Downpipe
I installed my ATR DP and hi-flow cat
last night (along with "improving flow
in the precats..."). The only
item with the ATR DP was that I had to grind
down the outer edge of the
flange on the DP near where the studs are going
to each precat because the
outer diameter of the flange on the DP is maybe
1/16" or so too wide to fit
between the studs on the precat housings. Other
than that, the install
was pretty easy. Note that the bolts for connecting
the hi-flow cat to
the exhaust (I have the Borla) are permanent studs on the
stock cat, so you
will need to buy bolts to fit as they did not seem to come
with my DP and
hi-flow cat. You should also replace all exhaust gaskets
while in
there. "Improving the precats" was a PITMFA but made much easier
by
using a lift at my neighbors garage.
I did not have to remove the axle at
all. Actually, I removed nothing other
than the stock DP and cat.
What a nice throaty rumble the car has now over
just the Borla alone.
Everyone in the shop was impressed with the "mean"
sound of the car after the
install. It is also much easier to hear the
turbos spool especially at
a low speed.
HTH
Dave 95VR4
http://www.daveblack.net-
-----Original Message-----
From: Wayne [mailto:whietala@prodigy.net]
Sent:
Thursday, April 18, 2002 11:12 AM
To:
JayBobski@aol.com;
Team3S@stealth-3000gt.stSubject:
Re: Team3S: ATR vs. Stillen Downpipe
I like the stillen very much, but
emissions stations won't like it.
I've heard the ATR is hard to install
because you need to remove the axle
to clear the rear precat
flange.
At 11:47 AM 4/18/02 -0400,
JayBobski@aol.com
wrote:
> My stock downpipe front flex section is corroded
and leaking and I'm
>considering an aftermarket downpipe. Any
suggestions?
>
>Thanks,
>
>John Janicek 91
VR4
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 18 Apr 2002 13:10:07
-0500
From: "Black, Dave (ICT)" <
dblai@allstate.com>
Subject: RE:
Team3S: ATR vs. Stillen Downpipe
Yes, the 90 degree T in the stock DP is
very restrictive and creates
turbulent flow. The ATR is mandrel bent
and flows much better.
I would suggest gutting the precats and getting
the ATR DP and hi-flow cat
($319 and $179 respectively at
3SxPerformance). That way you can keep your
stock DP and cat and
replace them when it is time for emissions - and you
won't feel guilty
running a test pipe with the hi-flow cat.
Dave 95VR4 (environmentally
conscious...)
http://www.daveblack.net-
-----Original Message-----
From: Geisel, Brian
[mailto:Brian.Geisel@COMPAQ.com]
Sent: Thursday, April 18, 2002 1:00
PM
To: S. J Cowan;
Team3S@stealth-3000gt.stSubject:
RE: Team3S: ATR vs. Stillen Downpipe
> Wayne/John:
>
>
> I like the stillen very much, but emissions stations won't like it.
>
> True -- but they won't like either of them if you get rid of the
main
> cat. ;-)
>
> The ATR is a 3" dp with no flex
sections and does not replace
> the front
> pre-cat, where I
believe the Stillen does have have a flex section and
> replaces the front
pre-cat. I have the ATR and it is built
> like a
tank.
Crap! So I still have to gut the front pre-cat for the ATR,
huh. :( I
want to keep my main cat, so I don't want to go with
the stillen. That
kinda stinks. So, do either of these DP's
really make that big of a
difference vs. stock even if you've gutted the
pre-cats and used the stock
DP?
geis
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 18 Apr 2002 13:12:29
-0500
From: "Geisel, Brian" <
Brian.Geisel@COMPAQ.com>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: ATR vs. Stillen Downpipe
Is there any reason to replace the
stock downpipe for emmisions? Even the hi-flow cat seems like it should be
fine.
geis
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Black,
Dave (ICT) [mailto:dblai@allstate.com]
> Sent: Thursday, April 18, 2002
2:10 PM
> To: Geisel, Brian
> Cc: Team3s (E-mail)
> Subject:
RE: Team3S: ATR vs. Stillen Downpipe
>
>
> Yes, the 90
degree T in the stock DP is very restrictive and creates
> turbulent
flow. The ATR is mandrel bent and flows much better.
>
> I
would suggest gutting the precats and getting the ATR DP
> and hi-flow
cat
> ($319 and $179 respectively at 3SxPerformance). That way you
> can keep your
> stock DP and cat and replace them when it is time
for
> emissions - and you
> won't feel guilty running a test pipe
with the hi-flow cat.
>
> Dave 95VR4 (environmentally
conscious...)
>
http://www.daveblack.net***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 18 Apr 2002 12:05:47
-0600
From: "Justin Sturgeon" <
justinstur@hotmail.com>
Subject:
Team3S: poor acceleration,strange noise
I wrote last week about a problem
I was having with my 91 stealth R/T NA.
As I was leaving my house, I
could barely hear a coughing noise coming from
my exhaust and the car
stumbled slightly on acceleration. Later on, the
noise and stumble
became more pronounced to the point that it was
embarassing accelerating
away from a stop light. At higher gears and higher
RPM, the problem
was not there; just accelerating in low gear. I was told
at the shop
that there was a dead cylinder. I have new NGK plugs and wires.
I has put some of that di-electric grease on the plugs and boots a couple
of
days prior. I thought maybe somehow that was interfering with spark so i
cleaned it all off. I checked the resistance in the wires and pulled
the
plugs in the front bank. All were good. I took it out for a
drive and all
seemed good. Problem fixed, right. Not
right. The next time I took it out
it had that minor cough, stumble
like it did before. not nearly so bad, but
still there. I
checked the adjustment of the crank angle sensor and the
continuity in the
primary and secondary coil as well as the continuity in
the (transistor???)
located below the coil pack. all were good. I even
hooked up my
timing light to each plug wire to see if there were a strobe
(which should
indicate current running through them). The #1 wire had a
fast
consistent strobe. The others seemed slower, less consistent, and I
think i even noticed a pause once or twice. Then I took off the timing
belt
cover to check the timing. That's when I noticed that there was a
significant amount of slack in the timing belt in the vertical part between
the front and rear bank where it runs down to the water pump pulley;
basically no tension. it was tight everywhere else. I ordered
the parts
for the 60k tune-up and started taking things apart. Anyway,
to make a long
story longer, when I turned the crank to align the timing
marks (which did
line up, so it hadn't skipped a tooth) the slack went
away. everything
seems tight. I have turned the crank many times
trying to get the slack to
come back and it doesn't. so here's the
questions:
1. what could have caused the running problems
initially? ECU is all I can
think of except for possibly a problem in
the rear bank of plugs or wires.
but they're both new.
2.
what could have caused the slack in the timing belt. all pulleys turned
smoothly and freely and the timing marks lined up?
3. I may be
showing my ignorance here, but as I turned the crank, there was
a definite
difference in the degree of force needed to turn it from one turn
to
another. I don't know if this is normal. I don't know if its
happening
at the top of a pistons stroke as it tops out and starts the
downward stroke
(I really am showing my ignorance). I figured it could
also be caused by
the crank (or something) being bent and causing it to have
an elliptical
orbit. It makes sense to me logically, but I really
don't know much about
the internals of an engine.
4. Not a
question, but I found a great way to loosen the crank bolt without
the
special tool. I bought a tool at sears called a strap wrench. It's
similar to an oil filter wrench, but much sturdier. It cost $20 and
worked
great (and there's 2 per package). and I figured if i broke it,
its got a
lifetime guarantee.
Any, parts should be here tomorrow so
any ideas would be greatly
appreciated.
Sincerely, Justin
Sturgeon
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 18 Apr 2002 13:16:13
-0500
From: "S. J Cowan" <
sjc0u812@juno.com>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: ATR Downpipe
Dave et al:
> The only item with the ATR
DP was that I had
> to grind
> down the outer edge of the flange on
the DP near where the studs are
> going
> to each precat because
the outer diameter of the flange on the DP is
> maybe
> 1/16" or so
too wide to fit between the studs on the precat
> housings.
FWIW, I had no such problem with mine, but again, I ahve the model
with
the test pipe.
Best,
SJ
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 18 Apr 2002 13:14:29
-0500
From: "S. J Cowan" <
sjc0u812@juno.com>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: ATR vs. Stillen Downpipe
Brian:
> Crap! So I
still have to gut the front pre-cat for the ATR, huh.
Yes, but
that's the easy one.
> :( I want to keep my main cat, so I don't
want to go with the
> stillen. That kinda stinks. So, do
either of these DP's really
> make that big of a difference vs. stock
even if you've gutted the
> pre-cats and used the stock DP?
Yes,
note the size difference. And I believe the ATR is a 1/2" wider
than
the Stillen. It's all about flow.
I have the ATR with the
testpipe. I just change out with the stock
materials when time for
emissions.
Best,
SJ
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 18 Apr 2002 13:21:35
-0500
From: "Black, Dave (ICT)" <
dblai@allstate.com>
Subject: RE:
Team3S: New Propane Injection Kit supplier!
Yes, in fact the kit my
neighbor is designing will be a bullet-proof tank
and unlike the typical BBQ
tank. The valve connectors are protected also.
No offense to Matt at
all but they took one look at DR's kit and said they
wouldn't even think
about installing it. It doesn't even have a pressure
release. So,
in a car on a HOT day you are just building pressure even
though the tanks
are able to be filled to only 80% because of special safety
filler
valves. My neighbor's system has an automatic vent to atmosphere
safety
feature much like that for purging NOS tanks.
I hae seen his race car and
it is full quality and has dual fuel capability
- - regular fuel, both, or
pure propane. He said the performance difference
between running pure
propane and regular fuel is like black and white -
propane blows regular fuel
away. He estimates about 650-700hp in the car
now and hasn't yet
installed NOS. Next year he's bullet-proofing the
engine, tranny, and
diff. and hopes for in excess of 1000hp or about a mid
to low 9 second
car!
I will be with him at the track when he runs it in the 1/4 in
several weeks.
Should be pretty cool!
Dave 95VR4
http://www.daveblack.net-
-----Original Message-----
From: Floyd, Jim
[mailto:Jim_Floyd@maxtor.com]
Sent: Thursday, April 18, 2002 9:15 AM
To:
'Roger Gerl'; Team3s (E-mail)
Subject: RE: Team3S: New Propane Injection Kit
supplier!
Are there any tanks available other than the ones used for
camping ?
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 18 Apr 2002 13:25:56
-0500
From: "Black, Dave (ICT)" <
dblai@allstate.com>
Subject: RE:
Team3S: ATR vs. Stillen Downpipe
Replace the DP for emissions
purposes? No. Strictly performance. Not sure
whether or not the
hi-flow cat will pass emissions - mabye if you have fuel
control and lean it
out a little. It didn't look to me like I could use the
stock DP with
the hi-flow cat because the hi-flow is about 3-4" shorter than
the stock cat
and won't reach the exhaust. So, I decided to keep stock DP
and cat
just in case I can't pass emissions.
Dave 95VR4
http://www.daveblack.net-
-----Original Message-----
From: Geisel, Brian
[mailto:Brian.Geisel@COMPAQ.com]
Sent: Thursday, April 18, 2002 1:12
PM
To: Black, Dave (ICT)
Cc: Team3s (E-mail)
Subject: RE: Team3S: ATR
vs. Stillen Downpipe
Is there any reason to replace the stock downpipe
for emmisions? Even the
hi-flow cat seems like it should be
fine.
geis
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Black,
Dave (ICT) [mailto:dblai@allstate.com]
> Sent: Thursday, April 18, 2002
2:10 PM
> To: Geisel, Brian
> Cc: Team3s (E-mail)
> Subject:
RE: Team3S: ATR vs. Stillen Downpipe
>
> Yes, the 90 degree T in
the stock DP is very restrictive and creates
> turbulent flow. The
ATR is mandrel bent and flows much better.
>
> I would suggest
gutting the precats and getting the ATR DP
> and hi-flow cat
>
($319 and $179 respectively at 3SxPerformance). That way you
> can
keep your
> stock DP and cat and replace them when it is time for
>
emissions - and you
> won't feel guilty running a test pipe with the
hi-flow cat.
>
> Dave 95VR4 (environmentally conscious...)
>
http://www.daveblack.net>
>
-----Original Message-----
> From: Geisel, Brian
[mailto:Brian.Geisel@COMPAQ.com]
> Sent: Thursday, April 18, 2002 1:00
PM
> To: S. J Cowan;
Team3S@stealth-3000gt.st>
Subject: RE: Team3S: ATR vs. Stillen Downpipe
>
> >
Wayne/John:
> >
> > > I like the stillen very much, but
emissions stations
> won't like it.
> >
> > True --
but they won't like either of them if you get rid
> of the main
>
> cat. ;-)
> >
>
> > The ATR is a 3" dp with
no flex sections and does not replace
> > the front
> >
pre-cat, where I believe the Stillen does have have a flex
> section
and
> > replaces the front pre-cat. I have the ATR and it is
built
> > like a tank.
>
> Crap! So I still have to
gut the front pre-cat for the ATR,
> huh. :( I
> want
to keep my main cat, so I don't want to go with the
> stillen.
That
> kinda stinks. So, do either of these DP's really make that
big of a
> difference vs. stock even if you've gutted the pre-cats and
> used the stock
> DP?
>
> geis
***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 18 Apr 2002 13:29:59
-0500
From: "Black, Dave (ICT)" <
dblai@allstate.com>
Subject: RE:
Team3S: ATR Downpipe
Test pipe or not should not be an issue. The
flanges I had to grind down
were the ones going to the precats. I
remember hearing a handful of others
mention the same issue I think on 3Si BB
or maybe in the archives somewhere.
Maybe it is just a minor difference in
the distance between the studs on the
precat housings between different years
OR ATR has minor discrepancies in
manufacturing tolerance factor. My
guess is the latter.
Dave 95VR4
http://www.daveblack.net-
-----Original Message-----
From: S. J Cowan
[mailto:sjc0u812@juno.com]
Sent: Thursday, April 18, 2002 1:16 PM
To:
Team3S@stealth-3000gt.stSubject:
Re: Team3S: ATR Downpipe
Dave et al:
> The only item with the
ATR DP was that I had
> to grind
> down the outer edge of the
flange on the DP near where the studs are
> going
> to each precat
because the outer diameter of the flange on the DP is
> maybe
>
1/16" or so too wide to fit between the studs on the precat
>
housings.
FWIW, I had no such problem with mine, but again, I ahve
the model with
the test pipe.
Best,
SJ
***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 18 Apr 2002 13:34:20
-0500
From: "Morice, Francis" <
francis.morice@retek.com>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: ATR Downpipe
I have the Stillen and I had to grind down the
welds around the flanges,
both front and rear precats because the nuts
couldn't be tightened past the
welds. With the Stillen I also had to
enlarge the bolt holes for the rear
precat in order for them to slip over the
studs. Not sure if they have
fixed this little snafu. Other than
that I like it matched up with the
Borla.
Francis
'96 RT/TT
-
-----Original Message-----
From: Black, Dave (ICT)
[mailto:dblai@allstate.com]
Sent: Thursday, April 18, 2002 1:30 PM
To: 'S.
J Cowan'
Cc: Team3s (E-mail)
Subject: RE: Team3S: ATR Downpipe
Test
pipe or not should not be an issue. The flanges I had to grind
down
were the ones going to the precats. I remember hearing a handful
of others
mention the same issue I think on 3Si BB or maybe in the archives
somewhere.
Maybe it is just a minor difference in the distance between the
studs on the
precat housings between different years OR ATR has minor
discrepancies in
manufacturing tolerance factor. My guess is the
latter.
Dave 95VR4
http://www.daveblack.net***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 18 Apr 2002 11:37:17
-0700
From: "Gross, Erik" <
erik.gross@intel.com>
Subject: RE:
Team3S: poor acceleration,strange noise
> 1. what could have
caused the running problems initially?
> ECU is all I can think of
except for possibly a problem in
> the rear bank of plugs or wires but
they're both new.
Based on your descriptions, I'd wonder about the ECU as
well. There
certainly have been a number of them that have gone
bad. Pull out your ECU
(behind the radio on the driver's side) and
check out the capacitors to see
if they've started eating away your PC
board.
> 2. what could have caused the slack in the timing
belt. all
> pulleys turned smoothly and freely and the timing
marks lined up?
The only "normal" think I can think of is if the engine
just barely started
turning backwards after it stopped(valve springs pushing
it?) With an older
belt, maybe it could get some slack...I'm not sure
though. In general,
slack isn't your friend.
> 3. I may
be showing my ignorance here, but as I turned the
> crank, there
was a definite difference in the degree of force
> needed to turn it
from one turn
> to another. I don't know if this is normal.
Yep, if you're turning it manually with a wrench, it'll be really easy
for
part of the rotation and then pretty hard to turn. Then it'll be
easy
again. Remember you're having to work against the engine's
compression
(piston moving upward with a sealed chamber) and against the
valve springs
(you have to fight their force to open the valves as you turn
the crank).
Variable resistance as you manually turn the crank is
normal.
- --Erik
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 18 Apr 2002 11:41:31
-0700
From: "Gross, Erik" <
erik.gross@intel.com>
Subject: RE:
Team3S: ATR Downpipe
> I have the Stillen and I had to grind down the
welds around
> the flanges, both front and rear precats because the
nuts
> couldn't be tightened past the welds.
Didn't have to do
that on mine, but I never really checked to see if the
nuts go all the way
down. They hold the pipe on, so I think they're ok...
> With the
Stillen I also had to enlarge the bolt holes
> for the rear precat in
order for them to slip over the
> studs. Not sure if they have fixed
this little snafu.
Not as of last fall when I installed mine. Any
tips on how to enlarge holes
in stainless steel? That stuff sure is
hard :-)
- --Erik
P.S. oh, and my Stillen pipe matched up to
my HKS exhaust pretty well,
although before I enlarged the rear precat flange
holes, it forced the HKS
exhaust toward the driver's side and it contacted a
bolt when the engine
rocked. After enlarging one of the holes, the
interference is all but gone.
I still need to enlarge the other
hole.
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 18 Apr 2002 13:45:49
-0500
From: "Morice, Francis" <
francis.morice@retek.com>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: ATR Downpipe
I enlarged them with a pretty large drill bit
and about 10 minutes work on
each hole. I probably will have to enlarge
the rear ones a little more as I
have the same problem you had with the
exhaust pulling to the drivers side
and making a clanking sound once in a
while..
Francis
'96 RT/TT
- -----Original Message-----
From:
Gross, Erik [mailto:erik.gross@intel.com]
Sent: Thursday, April 18, 2002 1:42
PM
To: Morice, Francis; 'Black, Dave (ICT)'; Team3S (E-mail)
Subject: RE:
Team3S: ATR Downpipe
> I have the Stillen and I had to grind down the
welds around
> the flanges, both front and rear precats because the
nuts
> couldn't be tightened past the welds.
Didn't have to do that
on mine, but I never really checked to see if the
nuts go all the way
down. They hold the pipe on, so I think they're ok...
> With the
Stillen I also had to enlarge the bolt holes
> for the rear precat in
order for them to slip over the
> studs. Not sure if they have fixed
this little snafu.
Not as of last fall when I installed mine. Any
tips on how to enlarge holes
in stainless steel? That stuff sure is
hard :-)
- --Erik
P.S. oh, and my Stillen pipe matched up to
my HKS exhaust pretty well,
although before I enlarged the rear precat flange
holes, it forced the HKS
exhaust toward the driver's side and it contacted a
bolt when the engine
rocked. After enlarging one of the holes, the
interference is all but gone.
I still need to enlarge the other
hole.
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 18 Apr 2002 12:05:33
-0700
From: "ek2mfg" <
ek2mfg@foxinternet.com>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: ATR Downpipe
.........."Any tips on how to enlarge
holes
in stainless steel? That stuff sure is hard :-)"
you can get a
small grinding wheel from just about anyone who sells
those rotozip tools and
attachments....the best would be reamer or to
go off center a carbide
grinding wheel....kind of looks like an
endmill but with 12 flutes not
2-4
bobk.
- ---- Original Message ----
From:
erik.gross@intel.comTo:
francis.morice@retek.com,
dblai@allstate.com,
>Team3S@stealth-3000gt.st
Subject: RE: Team3S: ATR Downpipe
Date:
Thu, 18 Apr 2002 11:41:31 -0700
>
>> I have the Stillen and I
had to grind down the welds around
>> the flanges, both front and rear
precats because the nuts
>> couldn't be tightened past the welds.
>
>Didn't have to do that on mine, but I never really checked to
see if
>the
>nuts go all the way down. They hold the pipe on,
so I think they're
>ok...
>
>> With the Stillen I also had
to enlarge the bolt holes
>> for the rear precat in order for them to
slip over the
>> studs. Not sure if they have fixed this little
snafu.
>
>Not as of last fall when I installed mine. Any tips
on how to
>enlarge holes
>in stainless steel? That stuff sure
is hard :-)
>
>--Erik
>
>P.S. oh, and my Stillen
pipe matched up to my HKS exhaust pretty
>well,
>although before I
enlarged the rear precat flange holes, it forced
>the HKS
>exhaust
toward the driver's side and it contacted a bolt when the
>engine
>rocked. After enlarging one of the holes, the
interference is all
>but gone.
>I still need to enlarge the other
hole.
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 18 Apr 2002 12:53:24
-0700
From: Wayne <
whietala@prodigy.net>
Subject:
Team3S: Antenna mast
O.K., so what is the trick to getting the old
antenna mast out. I've read
several places where it says "simply pull the
mast out while the motor is
pushing it up".
Well, i've tried this on
several different cars and the mast has NEVER come
out.
In the past,
i just learned to live with the faulty antenna.
Now i need to use my car
cover, and MUST replace my mast or it will poke a
hole in my cover
I
pull on it as hard as i can, rotating it as i pull, and it simply won't
come
out.
Yes, i have the trim cap and rubber
removed.........
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
End of Team3S: 3000GT &
Stealth V1
#815
***************************************