Team3S: 3000GT & Stealth Wednesday, April 17
2002 Volume 01 : Number
814
----------------------------------------------------------------------
Date:
Tue, 16 Apr 2002 15:30:53 -0400
From: "Bill vp" <
billvp@highstream.net>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: Service manual availability
did you try just printing out the
online manual and then taking it somewhere
to get a binding put on
it?
- -----Original Message-----
From:
owner-team3s@team3s.com
[mailto:owner-team3s@team3s.com]On Behalf
Of Lawrence Lindgren
Sent:
Tuesday, April 16, 2002 3:19 PM
To:
Team3s@stealth-3000gt.stSubject:
Team3S: Service manual availability
As a relatively new owner of a '91
3000 GT VR4, I want to get the
service manuals so that I can do some of the
work myself. Getting the
manuals is proving
to be tough. First I tried the
numbers listed in FAQ. Dyment no longer
exists in area code 216, and the
operator at the 800 number for MOPAR
said they do not carry Mitsu manuals.
She sent me to Mitsu. I called
Mitsu and they sent me to my local retailer. I
already knew what they
have to say: the 1991 manual has been combined with
the manuals
through 1995 and now costs $150. In addition, the company now
waits
until
they get a sufficient number of orders before printing a
batch. But
that was three weeks ago. Last Friday my retailer called and said
the
manuals are no longer available and they were sending my money
back.
Then I tried every used book seller I could find, local
(Cincinnati) and
on the internet. Nada. Then I posted a parts wanted
listing on the 3SI
website. More nada.
I have the CD version of the
manuals, but I would also like something I
can drip oil on. Does anyone have
a suggestion?
Lawrence Lindgren
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 16 Apr 2002 12:42:21
-0700
From: Damon Rachell <
damonr@mefas.com>
Subject: Re: Team3S:
low boost
Hi Pete,
Well, have you contact GTPro? It's not likely
that both wastegates go
at the same time so it's likely a vacuum
problem. check the vacuum
lines to make sure there's no kinks.
nothing changed in the settings of
the boost
controller?
Damon
Pete wrote:
> A little over a week ago. I
had GT PRO install a Blitz SBCID boost
> controller, we also installed a
BOV, supra pump, plugs, magnecore 100 wires,
> gages,and intrax springs.
The car ran really good for about 4 to 5 days. Now
> the car will only run
up to 3 pounds of boost. It runs fine but the turbos
> won't spool up.
Last night I put everything back to stock, it still only
> generates 3
pounds. Do you think it's a wastegate problem or what?
> Thanks for any
help
>
> Pete,
> 91 Vr 4, stillen downpipe, borla exhaust,
k&n filter,plus the new mods I
> just put on.
***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 16 Apr 2002 13:01:11
-0700
From: "Pete" <
pbozanich@hotmail.com>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: low boost
Damon, Ive tried GTPro but Im not getting much
help. Thats a totally
different story. I live 140 miles from them. Its really
weird whats
happened.
Pete
- ----- Original Message -----
From:
"Damon Rachell" <
damonr@mefas.com>
To: "Pete" <
pbozanich@hotmail.com>
Cc: <
Team3S@stealth-3000gt.st>
Sent:
Tuesday, April 16, 2002 12:42 PM
Subject: Re: Team3S: low boost
>
Hi Pete,
> Well, have you contact GTPro? It's not likely that both
wastegates go
> at the same time so it's likely a vacuum problem.
check the vacuum
> lines to make sure there's no kinks. nothing
changed in the settings of
> the boost controller?
>
Damon
>
> Pete wrote:
>
> > A little over a week ago.
I had GT PRO install a Blitz SBCID boost
> > controller, we also
installed a BOV, supra pump, plugs, magnecore 100
wires,
> >
gages,and intrax springs. The car ran really good for about 4 to 5
days.
Now
> > the car will only run up to 3 pounds of boost. It runs
fine but the
turbos
> > won't spool up. Last night I put everything
back to stock, it still only
> > generates 3 pounds. Do you think it's
a wastegate problem or what?
> > Thanks for any help
>
>
> > Pete,
> > 91 Vr 4, stillen downpipe, borla exhaust,
k&n filter,plus the new mods I
> > just put on.
***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 16 Apr 02 14:44:12
-0500
From: potter <
potter@interaccess.com>
Subject:
Team3S: HC emission question
I am once again fighting this battle.
First a little background. THe car is
a 91 VR4 with hollow precats,
downpipe, manual boost controller and Borla cat
back., The car passed two
years ago with NO cat, but it still had the precats.
This year it failed.
but I also gutted the precats since the last test.
I just installed a new
Cat and it still failed. I am looking for help. I
have checked
the the ecu with my data logger and it doesn't show any codes,
but something
has to be wrong.
I am also burning a little oil (possible turbo oil seal)
can that be pushing
up my HC? My last reading was a 361 ppm out of a
required 220.
This is all very difficult without access to a gas analyzer
(a friend used to
have one at his former place of employment).
Any
suggestions as to where to start looking????
- - injectors were cleaned and
flowbenched a year ago
- - O2 sensors were also replaced
should I be
checking timing, O2 grounding, ?????
Thanks
- -Bill
William
Potter
wpotter@potterenterprises.biz***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 16 Apr 2002 14:07:02
-0600
From: "Floyd, Jim" <
Jim_Floyd@maxtor.com>
Subject: RE:
Team3S: low boost
Pete,
What kind of "after-the-sale" service are
you getting from GT Pro ?
- -----Original Message-----
From: Pete
[mailto:pbozanich@hotmail.com]
Sent: Tuesday, April 16, 2002 2:01 PM
To:
Damon Rachell
Cc:
Team3S@stealth-3000gt.stSubject:
Re: Team3S: low boost
Damon, Ive tried GTPro but Im not getting much
help. Thats a totally
different story. I live 140 miles from them. Its really
weird whats
happened.
Pete
- ----- Original Message -----
From:
"Damon Rachell" <
damonr@mefas.com>
To: "Pete" <
pbozanich@hotmail.com>
Cc: <
Team3S@stealth-3000gt.st>
Sent:
Tuesday, April 16, 2002 12:42 PM
Subject: Re: Team3S: low boost
>
Hi Pete,
> Well, have you contact GTPro? It's not likely that both
wastegates go
> at the same time so it's likely a vacuum problem.
check the vacuum
> lines to make sure there's no kinks. nothing
changed in the settings of
> the boost controller?
>
Damon
>
> Pete wrote:
>
> > A little over a week ago.
I had GT PRO install a Blitz SBCID boost
> > controller, we also
installed a BOV, supra pump, plugs, magnecore 100
wires,
> >
gages,and intrax springs. The car ran really good for about 4 to 5
days.
Now
> > the car will only run up to 3 pounds of boost. It runs
fine but the
turbos
> > won't spool up. Last night I put everything
back to stock, it still only
> > generates 3 pounds. Do you think it's
a wastegate problem or what?
> > Thanks for any help
>
>
> > Pete,
> > 91 Vr 4, stillen downpipe, borla exhaust,
k&n filter,plus the new mods I
> > just put on.
***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 16 Apr 2002 20:53:24
-0000
From: "Jeff Lucius" <
jlucius@stealth316.com>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Service manual availability
Options for manuals:
The
1991 Stealth and 1991 3000GT are nearly identical. The notable exceptions
are some body panels and the active-aero parts. The $59 1991 Stealth manuals
would work for basically all maintenance and repair.
Obviously, print
out the pages you need from the CD. Use 3-hole punched paper,
or punch holes
by hand, for a 3-ring binder. You could have a local print shop
bind it for
you. Use a premium 20-lb paper.
Used manuals can sometimes be found on
www.ebay.com.
Call around to the discount
dealers I list on the Garage Page at my web site.
Some may have 1991 or
1992-1996 manuals. Either set would work for your 1991
car (little practical
change between 1991 and 1992). But prices may be as high
as $200 for a
set!
Check with these online used book sources:
http://www.crazyjerry.com/http://www.books4cars.com/ - they have
some but are a bit overpriced
http://www.alibris.comHope this
helps.
Jeff Lucius,
http://www.stealth316.com/- -----
Original Message -----
From: "Lawrence Lindgren" <
lflindgren@fuse.net>
To: <
Team3s@stealth-3000gt.st>
Sent:
Tuesday, April 16, 2002 1:19 PM
Subject: Team3S: Service manual
availability
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 16 Apr 2002 14:39:13
-0700
From: "Pete" <
pbozanich@hotmail.com>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: low boost
Jim, not much at all, they won't return my calls.
Brian the owner seems very
knowledgeable but I was only able to talk to him
on the saturday we did the
work. On his defense, his wife just gave birth to
a baby so he's got more
important things going on than my car. But you would
think some one else
would help.
Pete
- ----- Original Message
-----
From: "Floyd, Jim" <
Jim_Floyd@maxtor.com>
To: <
Team3S@stealth-3000gt.st>
Sent:
Tuesday, April 16, 2002 1:07 PM
Subject: RE: Team3S: low boost
>
Pete,
>
> What kind of "after-the-sale" service are you getting from
GT Pro ?
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Pete
[mailto:pbozanich@hotmail.com]
> Sent: Tuesday, April 16, 2002 2:01
PM
> To: Damon Rachell
> Cc:
Team3S@stealth-3000gt.st>
Subject: Re: Team3S: low boost
>
> Damon, Ive tried GTPro but Im not
getting much help. Thats a totally
> different story. I live 140 miles
from them. Its really weird whats
> happened.
> Pete
> -----
Original Message -----
> From: "Damon Rachell" <
damonr@mefas.com>
> To: "Pete"
<
pbozanich@hotmail.com>
>
Cc: <
Team3S@stealth-3000gt.st>
>
Sent: Tuesday, April 16, 2002 12:42 PM
> Subject: Re: Team3S: low
boost
>
> > Hi Pete,
> > Well, have you contact
GTPro? It's not likely that both wastegates go
> > at the same
time so it's likely a vacuum problem. check the vacuum
> > lines
to make sure there's no kinks. nothing changed in the settings of
>
> the boost controller?
> > Damon
> >
> > Pete
wrote:
> >
> > > A little over a week ago. I had GT PRO
install a Blitz SBCID boost
> > > controller, we also installed a
BOV, supra pump, plugs, magnecore 100
> wires,
> > > gages,and
intrax springs. The car ran really good for about 4 to 5
days.
>
Now
> > > the car will only run up to 3 pounds of boost. It runs
fine but the
> turbos
> > > won't spool up. Last night I put
everything back to stock, it still
only
> > > generates 3 pounds.
Do you think it's a wastegate problem or what?
> > > Thanks for any
help
> > >
> > > Pete,
> > > 91 Vr 4,
stillen downpipe, borla exhaust, k&n filter,plus the new mods
I
>
> > just put on.
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 16 Apr 2002 18:06:18
-0500
From: "xwing" <
xwing@wi.rr.com>
Subject: Team3S: Re:
Anyone interested in Union Grove dragstrip 4/20 or 4/21?
I'm going to
Union Grove right now, in my friend's silver Subaru WRX :)
and will be at
Road America this weekend with a Wisconsin F-Body Club...
Jack
T.
From: "Black, Dave (ICT)" <
dblai@allstate.com>
Subject: Team3S:
Anyone interested in Union Grove dragstrip 4/20 or 4/21?
> I was thinking
of heading over to Union Grove, WI dragstrip this coming
> weekend.
Anyone interested in going?
> Dave 95VR4
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 16 Apr 2002 16:24:26
-0700
From: "fastmax" <
fastmax@cox.net>
Subject: Team3S:
shiftlight --- was Gingerman
I got the autometer light and shift module
from Jegs --- the light is
about 1/2" in diameter and about 5" long. The
shift module comes
with 5 plug in resistors in various ranges so you can have
it light
at different rpm values. I mounted it on top of the steering
column.
I can take a few pictures if you care !!!
http://www.jegs.com/cgi-bin/ncommerce3/ProductDisplay?prrfnbr=8869&prmenbr=76
Jim Berry
===========================================================
-
----- Original Message -----
From: "Floyd, Jim" <
Jim_Floyd@maxtor.com>
To: <
team3s@team3s.com>
Sent: Monday, April
15, 2002 7:47 AM
Subject: RE: Team3S: Gingerman Raceway report - first
impressions
> Jim,
>
> Whose shift light did you install
?
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 16 Apr 2002 18:39:33
-0600
From: "Zach Sauerman" <
axemaddock@hotmail.com>
Subject:
Team3S: testpipe effects and fuel cooler
Good evening everyone. I have
two questions tonight.
The first is about a fuel cooler. A buddy of mine is
installing one on a '68
Camaro. It hasnt arrived yet, but from what I gather
it is a generic little
cooler that fuel goes in, is air cooled, and moves
on. I searched the
archives and couldn't find anything on this. Does anyone
have one? It isn't
very expensive, so I am wondering what the benefits would
be. I have only
stock turbos and the K&N, but perhaps it would be
something good for those
running the larger turbos and injectors and are
concerned with knock.
My second question concerns the effects testpipes
actually have on our cars.
I installed mine and love the new sound, but
question the performance. The
car doesn't seem to accelerate as quickly. I
assume this is because at low
RPMs the motor functions as though normally
aspirated and needs back
pressure to create torque. The turbos seem to spool
faster, but the car
doesn't feel as though it is accelerating as quickly as
it used to. Does
anyone have before and after results from a dyno or
drag-strip? I have only
the K&N filtercharger, stock turbos and BOV,
Magnecores, gutted pre-cats,
and stock exhaust.
Thanks for
reading,
Zach Sauerman
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 16 Apr 2002 18:50:36
-0700
From: "Erik Petterson" <
erikpetterson@yahoo.com>
Subject:
Team3S: Tires are different sizes, OK???
Today my drivers side rear
tire seperated (the tread came off) while I was
going approx. 80mph on the
freeway. I made it to a little tire shop that
had a used tire that the
guy said would fit. The 4 tires were all
205/65/15. The
replacement tire is 205/60/15. It is on the rear. Is it ok
to drive the
car like this for a couple of months? I am putting on around
2,500miles
per month. 1991 SOHC N/A (FRONT WHEEL
DRIVE).
Thanks,
- -Erik
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 16 Apr 2002 22:33:19
-0400
From: "Darren Schilberg" <
dschilberg@pobox.com>
Subject: RE:
Team3S: Tires are different sizes, OK???
Erik,
I think for
the N/A you can have different tires/wheels but you need to
make sure the
entire axle is the same. Right? For the turbo cars it
needs to be
the same all the way around due to the AWD.
Now it won't kill or break
the car but you should try to get another of
the same or replace your old one
with another of this same size.
- --Flash!
1995 VR-4
-
-----Original Message-----
From:
owner-team3s@team3s.com
[mailto:owner-team3s@team3s.com] On Behalf
Of Erik Petterson
Sent:
Tuesday, April 16, 2002 21:51
To: Stealth List
Subject: Team3S: Tires are
different sizes, OK???
Today my drivers side rear tire seperated (the
tread came off) while I
was
going approx. 80mph on the freeway. I
made it to a little tire shop
that
had a used tire that the guy said would
fit. The 4 tires were all
205/65/15. The replacement tire is
205/60/15. It is on the rear. Is it
ok
to drive the car like this
for a couple of months? I am putting on
around
2,500miles per
month. 1991 SOHC N/A (FRONT WHEEL DRIVE).
Thanks,
-
-Erik
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 16 Apr 2002 23:07:39
-0700
From: "noble" <
nketo@sympatico.ca>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: knock in 1st gear, but not 2nd or 3rd?
In my application (720cc
injectors), I was putting in too much fuel to begin
with.
After a series
of highway tests, I gradually found that decreasing the high
load settings on
my
fuel controller lowered knock above 6000rpm.
I had always thought
that more fuel gets rid of knock, but the datalogs
don't lie;
there is a
"sweet spot" for fuel mixtures that will produce the best power
with the
least chance of knock.
I'm currently around .92V
However, I also have a
front mount intercooler, which may play a part in
this as
well.
Lates,
Noble
- ----- Original Message -----
From: Bill
vp <
billvp@highstream.net>
To: team3/S
<
team3S@stealth-3000gt.st>
Sent:
Tuesday, April 16, 2002 12:28 AM
Subject: Re: Team3S: knock in 1st gear, but
not 2nd or 3rd?
> it's not overboosting because I have my turbo timer
set on peak hold and
it
> shows that it doesn't. Why would
leaning out the mixture ever decrease
> knock? Thanks for the
suggestions, I'm just curious as to the reasoning
> behind
it.
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: noble
[mailto:nketo@sympatico.ca]
> Sent: Tuesday, April 16, 2002 3:44
AM
> To: Bill vp
> Subject: Re: Team3S: knock in 1st gear, but not
2nd or 3rd?
>
>
> Sounds like you're overboosting momentarily
in first gear.
> Most boost controllers will do this; simply adjust your
gain lower, so
> that 1st and 2nd gear have no knock sums at
all.
>
> I usually hit 17psi VERY quickly in first, despite a 15psi
setting.
> I've since adjusted the controller to do the opposite; 15psi in
first,
17psi
> in the higher gears.
> Leaning out your fuel
settings might help as well.
>
> -Noble
>
> -----
Original Message -----
> From: Bill vp <
billvp@highstream.net>
> To:
team3/S <
team3S@stealth-3000gt.st>
>
Sent: Monday, April 15, 2002 7:30 PM
> Subject: Team3S: knock in 1st gear,
but not 2nd or 3rd?
>
>
> > I am using the pocketlogger and
have the following mods on my '91 R/T
tt:
> > 15Gs, 550cc, Walbro
pump, full exhaust, AAM intake, VPC/SAFC, etc. If I
> > take off
from a 5 mph roll (boost set to 14.5 psi) in 1st gear, the car
> >
accelerates well, but right at around 5500 rpm, I can actually feel the
>
car
> > retard the timing and the hood of the car drops a bit!!
If I continue
on
> > into 2nd, then 3rd and run the car to redline
it doesn't do this at all.
> > What would cause this? On the
pocketlogger knock shows up right about
> 5500
> > rpm also,
going from 0 knock sum at 5000 to over 20 at 5500!!
> >
> > If
I set the boost to 13 psi, there is no knock sum anywhere but
1st
gear
> at
> > 5500, but here it is small; perhaps a knock
sum of 5.
> >
> > Does anyone have any ideas on this?
>
>
> > It doesn't only happen from a 5 mph roll either, any kind of
start in
1st
> > gear (at 14.5 psi) from 0-15 mph causes it to do
this.
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 17 Apr 2002 08:20:25
-0400
From: "Furman, Russell" <
RFurman2@MassMutual.com>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: Tires are different sizes, OK???
As an addendum to
this, do not mix brands of tires or models of the brands
on an AWD car.
I am in the middle of doing a little research but it turns
out the tires OD
can fluctuate .10 or more depending on the model/brand.
So when
changing tires go with exact same type at all four corners and wear
over the
life of the tire is not a huge concern due to the fact that that
fluctutation
is less.05 for most W rated or better tires.
- -----Original Message-----
From: Darren Schilberg [mailto:dschilberg@pobox.com]
Sent: Tue 4/16/2002
10:33 PM
To: 'Stealth List'
Cc:
Subject: RE: Team3S: Tires are
different sizes, OK???
Erik,
I think for the N/A you can have
different tires/wheels but you need to
make sure the entire axle is the
same. Right? For the turbo cars it
needs to be the same all the
way around due to the AWD.
Now it won't kill or break the car but you
should try to get another of
the same or replace your old one with another
of this same size.
- --Flash!
1995 VR-4
***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 17 Apr 2002 07:18:28
-0600
From: "Floyd, Jim" <
Jim_Floyd@maxtor.com>
Subject:
Team3S: RE: shiftlight --- was Gingerman
No pictures necessary, thanks
though.
Did that mounting block any of your warning lights ?
-
-----Original Message-----
From: fastmax [mailto:fastmax@cox.net]
Sent:
Tuesday, April 16, 2002 5:24 PM
To: Floyd, Jim;
team3s@team3s.comSubject: shiftlight ---
was Gingerman
I got the autometer light and shift module from Jegs ---
the light is
about 1/2" in diameter and about 5" long. The shift module
comes
with 5 plug in resistors in various ranges so you can have it
light
at different rpm values. I mounted it on top of the steering
column.
I can take a few pictures if you care !!!
http://www.jegs.com/cgi-bin/ncommerce3/ProductDisplay?prrfnbr=8869&prmenbr=76
Jim Berry
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 17 Apr 2002 09:46:14
-0400
From:
Jeff.A.Williamson@jci.comSubject:
Team3S: re: Strange Engine "Hoot Owl" Sound (Kinda Long)
Thanks for the
responses to my "Hoot Owl" delimma. But just to clarify, the
"hoot owl" sound
I described is different from the "honking goose" that a
bad BOV makes. I
replaced my HKS SBOV with a used stock BOV and the noise
was still there. I
replaced that one with another stock BOV, and that one
WAS bad, as not only
did I get the "hoot owl", but the dreaded "honking
goose" was there, too. So
now I have a brand new HKS SSBOV, and I still
have the "hoot owl". The sound
occurs 1 to 2 seconds AFTER I let off the
throttle under any load at all, not
necessarilly after generating boost. So
I've ruled out any problem with the
BOV as a cause.
Since I've checked every hose and connection I can see,
as well as doing a
pressure test and not finding the problem, I'm now
wondering if there are
any hoses or vacuum lines or potential areas for
leakeage in areas that I
can't see...such as down in the vee under the intake
manifold or something
like that.
Any ideas?
Jeff W.
'92
VR4
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 17 Apr 2002 07:55:06
-0600
From: "Floyd, Jim" <
Jim_Floyd@maxtor.com>
Subject:
Team3S: Carbon Fiber Drive Shaft resonance
I finally got to call Mark at
PST and he told me they designed the
CFDS for 3/S to be OK to 11,500
RPM
At 8,000 engine RPM in 6th gear the drive shaft would be at
11,300
RPM.
Another point of interest is that after a year of screwing
around
with a new machine and process (too much carbon) his Supplier is
finally
sending him good tubes.
They accomplished this by going back to
their original winding
machine and process. Sounds like progress isn't always
the best way to go.
Any further questions can be addressed to Mark at
888-575-7888
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 17 Apr 2002 13:56:20
-0000
From: "Jeff Lucius" <
jlucius@stealth316.com>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: testpipe effects and fuel cooler
Backpressure thoughts.
Torque is created in the combustion process and the net value is limited
by
the inefficiencies and losses in the engine. Making it harder to expel
the
exhaust gas (backpressure) cannot increase the net torque available.
Perhaps what you really refer to is scavenging of the exhaust gas by
tuned and
timed exhaust "low-pressure" pulses. Forget it with our turbo
manifolds.
The little 1" diameter hole (TD04 housing) that the exhaust
gas from three
cylinders must pass through before getting to the volute (and
an even smaller
hole) and the turbine wheel pretty much establishes the
backpressure in the
manifold (for good or bad). It is hard to imagine much
contribution from pre-
cats or main cat (or any pipe or object after the
turbo) toward less or more
backpressure before the turbo. The exception
could be a failed, closed,
damaged, or clogged part. Of course, minimal or
no pressure after the turbo is
ideal for optimal turbo spoolup.
With
pre-cats in place and a stock exhaust, replacing a decent-flowing main
cat
with a "test pipe" is not likley to produce noticeable performance gains,
but does violate Federal Law and the Laws of all 50 states (if you care
about
such things and clean air). :)
You may consider gutting the
pre-cats (another law-breaking activity but for
all practical purposes
undetectable). This will reduce pressure after the
turbos for better spool
up and has a negligible effect on emissions. The pre-
cats are there
basically for when the engine is cold. The main cat does nearly
all of the
cleaning duties.
I wonder if Matt Monett and Jack T. had their
main-cats in place for their
record setting runs?
Jeff Lucius,
http://www.stealth316.com/- -----
Original Message -----
From: "Zach Sauerman" <
axemaddock@hotmail.com>
To:
<
Team3S@stealth-3000gt.st>
Sent:
Tuesday, April 16, 2002 6:39 PM
Subject: Team3S: testpipe effects and fuel
cooler
<snip>
My second question concerns the effects testpipes
actually have on our cars.
I installed mine and love the new sound, but
question the performance. The
car doesn't seem to accelerate as quickly. I
assume this is because at low
RPMs the motor functions as though normally
aspirated and needs back
pressure to create
torque.
<snip>
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 17 Apr 2002 07:08:14
-0700
From: "fastmax" <
fastmax@cox.net>
Subject: Re: Team3S:
re: Strange Engine "Hoot Owl" Sound (Kinda Long)
Does it vary by how you
let off the gas e.g. slowly release the throttle
or more rapidly ???
Does it make a difference if your coasting with
the clutch in or out
??? Have you looked at the vacuum boost and
check valves for the
brakes and clutch.
Jim
Berry
============================================
- ----- Original
Message -----
From: <
Jeff.A.Williamson@jci.com>
To:
<
team3S@stealth-3000gt.st>
Sent:
Wednesday, April 17, 2002 6:46 AM
Subject: Team3S: re: Strange Engine "Hoot
Owl" Sound (Kinda Long)
> Thanks for the responses to my "Hoot Owl"
delimma. But just to clarify, the
> "hoot owl" sound I described is
different from the "honking goose" that a
> bad BOV makes. I replaced my
HKS SBOV with a used stock BOV and the noise
> was still there. I replaced
that one with another stock BOV, and that one
> WAS bad, as not only did I
get the "hoot owl", but the dreaded "honking
> goose" was there, too. So
now I have a brand new HKS SSBOV, and I still
> have the "hoot owl". The
sound occurs 1 to 2 seconds AFTER I let off the
> throttle under any load
at all, not necessarilly after generating boost. So
> I've ruled out any
problem with the BOV as a cause.
>
> Since I've checked every hose
and connection I can see, as well as doing a
> pressure test and not
finding the problem, I'm now wondering if there are
> any hoses or vacuum
lines or potential areas for leakeage in areas that I
> can't see...such
as down in the vee under the intake manifold or something
> like
that.
>
> Any ideas?
>
> Jeff W.
> '92
VR4
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 17 Apr 2002 07:19:01
-0700
From: "fastmax" <
fastmax@cox.net>
Subject: Re: Team3S:
testpipe effects and fuel cooler
- ----- Original Message -----
From:
"Jeff Lucius" <
jlucius@stealth316.com>
>
You may consider gutting the pre-cats (another law-breaking activity but for
> all practical purposes undetectable).
Not so sure on the
undetectable issue --- simply tapping on the pre-cat would
tell if it's
hollow, the same applies to the main
cat.
===================================================
> I wonder
if Matt Monett and Jack T. had their main-cats in place for their
>
record setting runs?
In a recent post Jack T claimed that his [ almost ]
last remaining speed
secret was eliminating backpressure --- he said nothing
about the hows.
Jim
Berry
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 17 Apr 2002 09:45:31
-0500
From: "xwing" <
xwing@wi.rr.com>
Subject: Re: Team3S:
re: Strange Engine "Hoot Owl" Sound (Kinda Long)
Turbos sometimes make a
rhythmic "pshhhhh pshhhh pssh" noise when at partial
throttle, and letting
off. I think it is the pressure backflowing out the
compressor when
there is less turbine speed, once off the gas. The BOV
would decrease
this alot, so if BOV not working it would be more. I hear it
on my car,
heard it on friend's Supra...
I guess it is sort of a hoot owl sound but
MAYBE if your intake tract and
airfilters/MAS or whatever are different, it
sets up a resonance in the air
column making your car sound Special
;)
JT
From: <
Jeff.A.Williamson@jci.com>
Subject:
Team3S: re: Strange Engine "Hoot Owl" Sound (Kinda Long)
> Thanks for the
responses to my "Hoot Owl" delimma. But just to clarify,
the
> "hoot
owl" sound I described is different from the "honking goose" that a
> bad
BOV makes. I replaced my HKS SBOV with a used stock BOV and the noise
>
was still there. I replaced that one with another stock BOV, and that
one
> WAS bad, as not only did I get the "hoot owl", but the dreaded
"honking
> goose" was there, too. So now I have a brand new HKS SSBOV, and
I still
> have the "hoot owl". The sound occurs 1 to 2 seconds AFTER I let
off the
> throttle under any load at all, not necessarilly after
generating boost.
So
> I've ruled out any problem with the BOV as a
cause.
> Since I've checked every hose and connection I can see, as well
as doing a
> pressure test and not finding the problem, I'm now wondering
if there are
> any hoses or vacuum lines or potential areas for leakeage
in areas that I
> can't see...such as down in the vee under the intake
manifold or something
> like that.
> Any ideas?
> Jeff W. '92
VR4
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 17 Apr 2002 10:51:23
-0400
From:
Jeff.A.Williamson@jci.comSubject:
Re: Team3S: re: Strange Engine "Hoot Owl" Sound (Kinda Long)
Yes it does.
If I relase the throttle slowly, the sound is more immediate
and the pitch is
slightly higher, and likewise, a quicker release results
in a more delayed
and lower-pitched sound. It is also dependent on how much
load was on the
engine before I let off the throttle. If it was under
moderate boost
before I let off the throttle, I'll hear a sqeeky whimper
with a slight
whoosh from the BOV, then the "hoot owl" about 2
seconds
later.
Doesn't matter if the clutch is in or out. But when I
do decellerate with
the clutch engaged in gear, I've starting noticing a
slight backfire
(popping) in the exhaust.
I've checked both booster
check valves and hoses. They seem to be fine,
although that's exactly the
sound I would expect to hear if they weren't.
Jeff W
>Does it
vary by how you let off the gas e.g. slowly release the throttle
>or more
rapidly ??? Does it make a difference if your coasting with
>the
clutch in or out ??? Have you looked at the vacuum boost and
>check
valves for the brakes and clutch.
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 17 Apr 2002 15:21:58
-0000
From: "Jeff Lucius" <
jlucius@stealth316.com>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: re: Strange Engine "Hoot Owl" Sound (Kinda Long)
That sound
Jack describes is compressor surge and should be avoided if
possible. The
usual cause is a BOV adjusted too "tight" or one that is not by-
passing
enough air when pipe pressure exceeds plenum pressure. However, with
turbos
sized too large for our engines, surge may be unavoidable at worst or
very
easily initiated at best. More info on my web page below in the "surge
limit" section.
http://www.stealth316.com/2-3s-compflowmaps.htm
Jeff Lucius,
http://www.stealth316.com/- -----
Original Message -----
From: "xwing" <
xwing@wi.rr.com>
To: <
team3s@stealth-3000gt.st>
Sent:
Wednesday, April 17, 2002 8:45 AM
Subject: Re: Team3S: re: Strange Engine
"Hoot Owl" Sound (Kinda Long)
Turbos sometimes make a rhythmic "pshhhhh
pshhhh pssh" noise when at partial
throttle, and letting off. I think
it is the pressure backflowing out the
compressor when there is less turbine
speed, once off the gas. The BOV
would decrease this alot, so if BOV
not working it would be more. I hear it
on my car, heard it on friend's
Supra...
I guess it is sort of a hoot owl sound but MAYBE if your intake
tract and
airfilters/MAS or whatever are different, it sets up a resonance in
the air
column making your car sound Special ;)
JT
***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 17 Apr 2002 17:45:08
+0200
From: "Mikael Kenson" <
vr4@bahnhof.se>
Subject: Team3S: Cam
gear/sprocket question
I have installed Fidanza adjustable cam gears and
now I have questions...
I shall try to explain...
Matt Mone say
that cam gears shall be set up "intake cams advance 2 deg, and EX cams retard
3-4 deg" but Matt is using Unorthodox cam gears and when I looked at a set of
Unorthodox cam gears today (for a Supra) they are market like
this:
R....|....A
The Fidanza cam gears are
marked
+.....|.....-
So now I'm confused... For me + means advance
and - means retard but these cam gears say something different.
How shall
I set them? Any sugestions?
/Mikael
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 17 Apr 2002 09:17:10
-0700
From: "tri" <
thn@dexray.com>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: Tires are different sizes, OK???
i agree with darren, one
axle needs the same size, if not brand/model. the
tread will wear unevenly on
both of your rear tires, not to mention might
cause ur alignment to go bad.
basically, ur car sits on an angle because of
the change from 65 to 60 on the
tire. at higher speeds, i can only guess
what u may feel, maybe increased
vibrations, etc. what's worse is that it's
a used tire, at least make sure
the tread pattern somewhat matches the other
3 tires on your car. all season
won't work well with summer tires & vice
versa. if anything, just pop a
new kumho with the same 205/65/15 on (if they
make them). they're cheap but
good tires.
- ----- Original Message -----
From: "Erik Petterson" <
erikpetterson@yahoo.com>
To:
"Stealth List" <
Team3S@stealth-3000gt.st>
Sent:
Tuesday, April 16, 2002 6:50 PM
Subject: Team3S: Tires are different sizes,
OK???
> Today my drivers side rear tire seperated (the tread came off)
while I was
> going approx. 80mph on the freeway. I made it to a
little tire shop that
> had a used tire that the guy said would fit.
The 4 tires were all
> 205/65/15. The replacement tire is
205/60/15. It is on the rear. Is it
ok
> to drive the car like
this for a couple of months? I am putting on around
> 2,500miles per
month. 1991 SOHC N/A (FRONT WHEEL DRIVE).
>
>
Thanks,
> -Erik
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 17 Apr 2002 13:02:43
-0400
From: "Rodriguez, Elpidio x35617d1" <
x35617@exmail.usma.army.mil>
Subject:
Team3S: Axle Problem?
I recently bought a 1994 VR-4. I paid only $9000
because it has one
problem. When drving along, you can hear a noise i think
is definitely nt
natural. I've pin-pointed it to the rear wheel area. At low
speeds, it
sounds like a barrel rolling down the road. I was told that maybe
the
differential needed fluid since it did look like it might have been
leaking
at one time. I changed the fluid and topped it off but still the
same
problem. Next I was told it might be a bent axle or a bad differential.
The
mitsu dealer wants $150 just to diagnose it. I would rather spend this
money
on other performance parts so does anyone have any suggestions as to
what
the problem might be and how I can check it myself?
-
-ROD
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 17 Apr 2002 11:03:52
-0700
From: Andrew Woll <
awoll1@pacbell.net>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: Axle Problem?
Sounds like an axle bearing. If it is it can be
very unsafe. Have the dealer
diagnose it. $150 for your life, and possibly
some innocent persons life
sounds cheap.
Andy
- ----- Original
Message -----
From: "Rodriguez, Elpidio x35617d1" <
x35617@exmail.usma.army.mil>
To:
<
Team3S@Stealth-3000GT.st>
Sent:
Wednesday, April 17, 2002 10:02 AM
Subject: Team3S: Axle Problem?
>
I recently bought a 1994 VR-4. I paid only $9000 because it has one
>
problem. When drving along, you can hear a noise i think is definitely
nt
> natural. I've pin-pointed it to the rear wheel area. At low speeds,
it
> sounds like a barrel rolling down the road. I was told that maybe
the
> differential needed fluid since it did look like it might have
been
leaking
> at one time. I changed the fluid and topped it off but
still the same
> problem. Next I was told it might be a bent axle or a bad
differential.
The
> mitsu dealer wants $150 just to diagnose it. I
would rather spend this
money
> on other performance parts so does
anyone have any suggestions as to what
> the problem might be and how I
can check it myself?
>
> -ROD
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 17 Apr 2002 13:37:25
-0500
From:
cewillis@TexasChildrensHospital.orgSubject:
RE: Team3S: Axle Problem?
how many miles? do you have any idea
whether the rear wheel bearings have
been replaced? How does the emergency
brake feel? the e-brake uses shoes
which can drag on the inside of the
rear brake drums. $150 to diagnose seems
steep - $75 is more like what I
would expect to pay.
> -----Original Message-----
> From:
Rodriguez, Elpidio x35617d1
[SMTP:x35617@exmail.usma.army.mil]
> Sent: Wednesday, April 17, 2002 12:03
PM
> To:
'Team3S@Stealth-3000GT.st'>
Subject: Team3S: Axle Problem?
>
> I recently bought a 1994 VR-4. I
paid only $9000 because it has one
> problem. When drving along, you can
hear a noise i think is definitely nt
> natural. I've pin-pointed it to
the rear wheel area. At low speeds, it
> sounds like a barrel rolling down
the road. I was told that maybe the
> differential needed fluid since it
did look like it might have been
> leaking
> at one time. I changed
the fluid and topped it off but still the same
> problem. Next I was told
it might be a bent axle or a bad differential.
> The
> mitsu dealer
wants $150 just to diagnose it. I would rather spend this
> money
>
on other performance parts so does anyone have any suggestions as to
what
> the problem might be and how I can check it myself?
>
> -ROD
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 17 Apr 2002 11:41:18
-0600
From: "Mike & Cathy" <
micajoco@theofficenet.com>
Subject:
Team3S: engine smoke
I can't seem to figure out why my engine is smoking.
Will the turbos smoke
if they are leaking? Ive pulled the IC lines and there
is no oil present.
Will the oil burn in the turbos then out the exhaust? The
motor smokes
during acceleration and deceleration, but not while normal
speed.
Boost seems to be normal and turbos spool up.
Mike S 92 rt
tt
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 17 Apr 2002 14:44:17
-0400
From: "Rodriguez, Elpidio x35617d1" <
x35617@exmail.usma.army.mil>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: Axle Problem?
The e-brake feels kinda loose. I am getting a
brake job for it cause they're
pretty worn out already so I'll have the
mechanic take a look at that. Are
the e-brake shoes a whole different part
that needs to get replaced? Thanks
- -ROD
- -----Original
Message-----
From:
cewillis@TexasChildrensHospital.orgTo:
x35617@exmail.usma.army.mil;
Team3S@Stealth-3000GT.stSent:
4/17/02 2:37 PM
Subject: RE: Team3S: Axle Problem?
how many
miles? do you have any idea whether the rear wheel
bearings
have
been replaced? How does the emergency brake feel? the
e-brake uses
shoes
which can drag on the inside of the rear brake drums.
$150 to diagnose
seems
steep - $75 is more like what I would expect to
pay.
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 17 Apr 2002 13:55:32
-0500
From:
cewillis@TexasChildrensHospital.orgSubject:
RE: Team3S: Axle Problem?
the e-brake shoes are a different mechanism
from the rear disk brakes. the
rear rotors have a drum and the shoes
are inside them. during the brake job,
they might remove the rotors exposing
the e-brake shoes, or not. they might
just change the pads and adjust
the e-brake with the rotor still on the rear
hub. there is a hole in
the rotor with an adjusting wheel inside.
With the wheels and rotors
removed, you should be able to tell if you have
wheel bearing noise. I
don't know about testing "axle bearings".
Chuck
> -----Original
Message-----
> From: Rodriguez, Elpidio x35617d1
[SMTP:x35617@exmail.usma.army.mil]
> Sent: Wednesday, April 17, 2002 1:44
PM
> To:
'cewillis@TexasChildrensHospital.org
'; Rodriguez, Elpidio
> x35617d1;
'Team3S@Stealth-3000GT.st '
>
Subject: RE: Team3S: Axle Problem?
>
> The e-brake feels kinda
loose. I am getting a brake job for it cause
> they're
> pretty worn
out already so I'll have the mechanic take a look at that. Are
> the
e-brake shoes a whole different part that needs to get replaced?
>
Thanks
>
> -ROD
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 17 Apr 2002 11:55:50
-0700
From: "fastmax" <
fastmax@cox.net>
Subject: Re: Team3S:
Axle Problem?
They can check the wheel bearings while they have it in the
air --- wheel
bearings going out will show up as a rough feeling when the
wheel is
turned and may even have play in the wheel if bad
enough.
Did you drain the rear differential -- if it's going bad there
will be metal
particles in the
oil.
Jim
Berry
==================================================
- -----
Original Message -----
From: "Rodriguez, Elpidio x35617d1" <
x35617@exmail.usma.army.mil>
>
The e-brake feels kinda loose. I am getting a brake job for it cause
they're
> pretty worn out already so I'll have the mechanic take a look at
that. Are
> the e-brake shoes a whole different part that needs to get
replaced? Thanks
>
> -ROD
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 17 Apr 2002 12:12:42
-0700
From: Andrew Woll <
awoll1@pacbell.net>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: Axle Problem?
Good points Chuck - Shops usually take the easy way
out. It would be a good
idea anyway, just to get familiar with the hardware,
to take the rotors off
and just look around. I too, don't know how to "test"
the rear wheel
bearings. The few that have gone out on me have just been kind
of obvious
when you finally dig deep enough to see them.
Andy
-
----- Original Message -----
From: <
cewillis@TexasChildrensHospital.org>
To:
<
x35617@exmail.usma.army.mil>;
<
Team3S@Stealth-3000GT.st>
Sent:
Wednesday, April 17, 2002 11:55 AM
Subject: RE: Team3S: Axle
Problem?
> the e-brake shoes are a different mechanism from the rear
disk brakes.
the
> rear rotors have a drum and the shoes are inside
them. during the brake
job,
> they might remove the rotors exposing the
e-brake shoes, or not. they
might
> just change the pads and
adjust the e-brake with the rotor still on the
rear
> hub. there
is a hole in the rotor with an adjusting wheel inside.
>
> With the
wheels and rotors removed, you should be able to tell if you have
> wheel
bearing noise. I don't know about testing "axle bearings".
>
>
Chuck
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 17 Apr 2002 15:39:02
-0400 (EDT)
From:
gtg509d@prism.gatech.eduSubject:
Team3S: failed emissions
Hello Everyone,
I recently moved to a
county that requires emissions testing and I failed the
test. I have a
stock '91 Stealth R/T (24 valve DOHC) with no modifications
yet. I
read throught the archives to get some tips (after the fact) - I was
driving
around the highway and streets before I got to the place, but had to
wait
10-15 minutes before I was tested. The guy at the testing place said from
the results it was either the catalytic converter or the EGR. Can I
check
these myself, or do one of those additives/driving hard methods work
in most
cases?
Thanks for the help.
Michael
***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
End of Team3S: 3000GT &
Stealth V1
#814
***************************************