Team3S: 3000GT & Stealth    Monday, April 15 2002    Volume 01 : Number 812




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Date: Sun, 14 Apr 2002 13:45:30 -0400
From: "Philip V. Glazatov" <gphilip@umich.edu>
Subject: RE: Team3S: Gingerman Raceway report - first impressions

At 01:32 AM 4/14/2002, Darren Schilberg wrote:
>    Yes you need brake fluid so it does not boil although your problem
>was brake pads but upgrade those suckers and you will boil fluid.  Motul
>600 or something similar for higher temps.

Where is a good place to buy Motul?

>    And rotors has been a tricky discussion.  Cryo-treating DOES make
>them last longer under normal conditions.  I personally warped a set of
>Porterfield cryo-treated ones so until I fix that problem I will get
>just some solid ones for next time.

What do you consider "normal conditions"? And is there any way to fix that
problem?

Philip

***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***

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Date: Sun, 14 Apr 2002 18:37:14 +0000
From: mjannusch@attbi.com
Subject: Re: Team3S: Timing belt adjust

Make sure you install the belt in the right order. 
Start at the crank sprocket and install it
counterclockwise around the sprockets and guides.

Align the rear bank exhaust sprocket, then put a clip
or vice-grips on it (lightly!) to hold the belt in
place.  Then continue working your way around, making
sure that there's some tension on the belt so you don't
accidentally get misaligned due to slack.  All your
slack should then end up on the tensioner side and the
marks shouldn't move around.

You also asked about which mark on the crank sprocket
is the alignment mark - it is the tooth with the dot
that you want to align to the mark, same for the cam
sprockets.

Hope that helps...

- -Matt
'95 3000GT Spyder VR4
> I am working on replacing my old timing belt. Everything seems to be
> ok, but once I try to tighten down the belt, everything but the
> crankshaft moves. That is, the top four shift a position, but the
> crankshaft is still on mark.

***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***

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Date: Sun, 14 Apr 2002 14:49:38 EDT
From: JayBobski@aol.com
Subject: Team3S: Replacing Crankshaft

  I am replacing my crankshaft on my  91 VR4 and am looking for advice on
bearings and tolerances etc. what to look for etc.

Thanks,

John Janicek

***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***

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Date: Sun, 14 Apr 2002 13:52:48 -0500
From: "cody" <overclck@satx.rr.com>
Subject: RE: Team3S: Timing belt adjust

I will add, I found it easy to rotate the crank sprocket 1 notch before
installing the timing belt on it... this way, when the crank was turned
back 1 notch, all the slack was taken up and everything aligned
perfectly...

- -Cody

- -----Original Message-----
From: owner-team3s@team3s.com [mailto:owner-team3s@team3s.com] On Behalf
Of mjannusch@attbi.com
Sent: Sunday, April 14, 2002 1:37 PM
To: Joseph Spainhour
Cc: team3S@stealth-3000gt.st
Subject: Re: Team3S: Timing belt adjust

Make sure you install the belt in the right order. 
Start at the crank sprocket and install it
counterclockwise around the sprockets and guides.

Align the rear bank exhaust sprocket, then put a clip
or vice-grips on it (lightly!) to hold the belt in
place.  Then continue working your way around, making
sure that there's some tension on the belt so you don't
accidentally get misaligned due to slack.  All your
slack should then end up on the tensioner side and the
marks shouldn't move around.

You also asked about which mark on the crank sprocket
is the alignment mark - it is the tooth with the dot
that you want to align to the mark, same for the cam
sprockets.

Hope that helps...

- -Matt
'95 3000GT Spyder VR4
> I am working on replacing my old timing belt. Everything seems to be
> ok, but once I try to tighten down the belt, everything but the
> crankshaft moves. That is, the top four shift a position, but the
> crankshaft is still on mark.

***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***

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Date: Sun, 14 Apr 2002 15:12:02 -0400
From: "Philip V. Glazatov" <gphilip@umich.edu>
Subject: Team3S: Gingerman Raceway report website is up!

Flash (Darren Schilberg) has put up a nice web page with my track report
and new and improved smaller-sized videos. He will post more
Intel-On-The-Side (TM) videos there later on after converting them. Thanks
a lot to Flash!

>www.Team3S.com/~dschilberg/cars/events/Gingerman/Gingerman.htm

Philip

***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***

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Date: Sun, 14 Apr 2002 15:56:06 -0400
From: "Darren Schilberg" <dschilberg@pobox.com>
Subject: RE: Team3S: Gingerman Raceway report - first impressions

Try this page for the update on the Gingerman track report, pictures,
and video by Philip.  (remember to put the entire address in the web
browser)

www.speedtoys.com/~dschilberg/cars/events/Gingerman/Gingerman.htm

- --Flash!

***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***

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Date: Sun, 14 Apr 2002 13:15:22 -0700 (PDT)
From: Kian Habib <ill1027@yahoo.com>
Subject: Team3S: advantages

What are the advantages to buying a VR-4 over a Toyota
Supra or a Corvette. Why would a VR-4 be better or
worse?

***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***

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Date: Sun, 14 Apr 2002 16:23:37 -0400
From: "Darren Schilberg" <dschilberg@pobox.com>
Subject: RE: 3S-Racers: RE: Team3S: Gingerman Raceway report - first impressions

Motul 600?  Geoff Mohler can get that for you.

There is other stuff (ATE Super Blue I think and other stuff) but this
is what I use and it works.  Some have had luck with just the cheap Ford
Hi-Temp stuff but when upgrading I like that part to never be the weak
part of the system again.

Normal conditions is road/street use for the average grocery getter and
vacation car.  No hard stops above 35 mph, no high-speed stops ever ...
that is normal conditions.  Traffic light racing, higher speed runs and
stabs at the brakes on Interstates, etc. are not normal conditions.  I
would call them elevated conditions.  Open track is a severe condition.
Make sense?

Read that open track priority list I sent you.  It spells it out there.
Normal condition might require street performance pads or better brake
fluid.  Elevated conditions might get SS brake lines and better brake
fluid.  Severe conditions might get the race pads and cryo-treated
rotors.  Is that easier to see?

The easiest way to fix is look at your finances, see what yields the
best dollar to performance.  Rotors at about $150 last a good season of
about 3-6 events (or so).  Pads last about the same (YMMV).  You will
bleed about a quart of brake fluid per brake bleed which should be
before each event (if you do all four corners and bleed out more instead
of less to make sure you get it all).

So if rotors are $150 and last all season.  Pads are $150 and last all
season.  Brake fluid is $90 and you use half of it for the season then
that is only $45 per season and a better deal, right?  SS brake lines
are up to $200 and last forever so that is hard to judge.  It will give
a firmer feel to the pedal so it is more of a mental upgrade at the same
time.  Tires are about $450 and last two seasons.  See how you can start
to chart this and find what mod will be the best for your particular
car?

- --Flash!
www.schilberg.com

- -----Original Message-----
From: Philip V. Glazatov
Sent: Sunday, April 14, 2002 13:46
 
Where is a good place to buy Motul?

What do you consider "normal conditions"? And is there any way to fix
that
problem?

***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***

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Date: Sun, 14 Apr 2002 16:28:52 -0400
From: "Darren Schilberg" <dschilberg@pobox.com>
Subject: RE: Team3S: advantages

One word ... AWD.

I used to have a webpage of some Nissan Skylines in Japan.  One had a
manually controlled 2WD and 4WD button.  The Skyline is RWD usually but
can nearly instantly switch to 4WD (or AWD - I am not sure).  Then
again, it might be 4WD and switchable to RWD in some cases.

Anyway, this one driver took a slalom in a parking lot with 2WD on and
slide the back out like RWD cars do.  He did the same thing with 4WD on
and stuck like glue.  Amazing to see the difference.

I have been saved more than once from hitting a guardrail or sliding off
the race track with AWD and will hopefully never again chose a 2WD car.
If you are on this list then you already like our cars so why ask about
others?  =)

The Corvette and Supra both have more parts available, both look nice,
sound nice, perform well, etc.  If you get past the AWD then it is up to
you to make the decision.  To me, the AWD (and AWS on mine) is just
another class higher to begin with.  I just love our AWD cars.  The
Audi, BMW, Subaru, etc. and their AWD are good too but I don't own one
of those right now.

What I really hate is when some friend says, "But I've been driving RWD
cars for 20 years.  I can go faster around a course in my car than you
can."  Well they are not allowing themselves to learn how the AWD car
works, handles, performs, etc.  It is no question that in rainy, gravel,
slick, uneven road surface, twisty, etc. conditions the AWD will always
(99% of the time) outperform a RWD car (like Vette or Supra).

I assume you don't have the money for a Z06, right?

- --Flash!
www.schilberg.com

- -----Original Message-----
From: Kian Habib
Sent: Sunday, April 14, 2002 16:15
 
What are the advantages to buying a VR-4 over a Toyota
Supra or a Corvette. Why would a VR-4 be better or
worse?

***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***

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Date: Sun, 14 Apr 2002 13:38:33 -0700 (PDT)
From: Geoff Mohler <gemohler@www.speedtoys.com>
Subject: RE: Team3S: advantages

More words:  Acceptance in the aftermarket world isnt as hot for the 4 as
the others.

I love the 4, but It Depends(tm) what you want to do...as with anything
else.

On Sun, 14 Apr 2002, Darren Schilberg wrote:

> One word ... AWD.
>
> I used to have a webpage of some Nissan Skylines in Japan.  One had a
> manually controlled 2WD and 4WD button.  The Skyline is RWD usually but
> can nearly instantly switch to 4WD (or AWD - I am not sure).  Then
> again, it might be 4WD and switchable to RWD in some cases.
>
> Anyway, this one driver took a slalom in a parking lot with 2WD on and
> slide the back out like RWD cars do.  He did the same thing with 4WD on
> and stuck like glue.  Amazing to see the difference.
>
> I have been saved more than once from hitting a guardrail or sliding off
> the race track with AWD and will hopefully never again chose a 2WD car.
> If you are on this list then you already like our cars so why ask about
> others?  =)
>
> The Corvette and Supra both have more parts available, both look nice,
> sound nice, perform well, etc.  If you get past the AWD then it is up to
> you to make the decision.  To me, the AWD (and AWS on mine) is just
> another class higher to begin with.  I just love our AWD cars.  The
> Audi, BMW, Subaru, etc. and their AWD are good too but I don't own one
> of those right now.
>
> What I really hate is when some friend says, "But I've been driving RWD
> cars for 20 years.  I can go faster around a course in my car than you
> can."  Well they are not allowing themselves to learn how the AWD car
> works, handles, performs, etc.  It is no question that in rainy, gravel,
> slick, uneven road surface, twisty, etc. conditions the AWD will always
> (99% of the time) outperform a RWD car (like Vette or Supra).
>
> I assume you don't have the money for a Z06, right?
>
> --Flash!
> www.schilberg.com
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Kian Habib
> Sent: Sunday, April 14, 2002 16:15

> What are the advantages to buying a VR-4 over a Toyota
> Supra or a Corvette. Why would a VR-4 be better or
> worse?

- ---
Geoff Mohler

***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***

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Date: Sun, 14 Apr 2002 13:33:48 -0600
From: "Mike & Cathy" <micajoco@theofficenet.com>
Subject: Team3S: rpm cut out

About 3 or 4 weeks ago someone was asking what caused their engine to cut
out or stumble at 4500 to 5000 rpms. Did this question get answered? Mine
stumbles at 5000 rpms and I can't find any thing. There was talk about the
coils, was this it? Thanks
Mike S 92 rt tt

***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***

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Date: Sun, 14 Apr 2002 17:08:56 -0400
From: "Darren Schilberg" <dschilberg@pobox.com>
Subject: RE: Team3S: advantages

That is a disadvantage, Geoff.  He was asking about Advantages.

Sure parts are not as available, cost more, labor on the car costs more,
but you will get that with any 2-ton car that is not made anymore.

One thing that is hard to count are the numerous waves and questions I
get about my car.  People wondering what it is, what it can do, what it
has, etc.  That is always a warm feeling.  Everyone knows what a Vette,
Camaro, Trans-Am, Supra, Celica, etc. have (or it seems they do).  And
being at a track event with Porsche or BMW or Audi and performing as
well or better than their cars when they think they are doing pretty
darn good.  We show up as beginners to road track driving and are
already about on the same level as they are.  God that feels good
sometimes.

Mine is also my only car.  I don't have a fleet to drive or maybe I
would have a different opinion.  I have put about 48,000 miles on the
car in the last 22 months so I've gotten to know it pretty well.  Not
many cars are good performers both on the track, street, and open
highway as well as have room for a good amount of luggage or track
equipment like a hatchback.

For me, I directly replaced all the amenities I had in my 1988 Acura
Legend L which were things like: power driver seat with lumbar, power
outside heated mirrors, auto climate control, power sunroof, and
leather.  It added other things like a rear wiper, AWD, and a shade more
power.  But my only other options were BMW, Audi, Lexus, Infinity, etc.
I wanted a manual tranny too.  Hence the decision to get my car (which
was on a lot near me at the time so it really made it easy).

- --Flash!
1995 VR-4

- -----Original Message-----
From: owner-team3s@team3s.com [mailto:owner-team3s@team3s.com] On Behalf
Of Geoff Mohler
Sent: Sunday, April 14, 2002 16:39
To: Darren Schilberg
Cc: team3s@stealth-3000gt.st
Subject: RE: Team3S: advantages

More words:  Acceptance in the aftermarket world isnt as hot for the 4
as
the others.

I love the 4, but It Depends(tm) what you want to do...as with anything
else.

***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 14 Apr 2002 18:21:29 -0500
From: "merritt@cedar-rapids.net" <merritt@cedar-rapids.net>
Subject: Re: Team3S: advantages

At 01:15 PM 4/14/02 -0700, Kian Habib wrote:
>What are the advantages to buying a VR-4 over a Toyota
>Supra or a Corvette. Why would a VR-4 be better or
>worse?

If you purchase any year VR4 and put about $3,000 worth of mods (springs, Porsche brakes, boost controller, Stillen, etc.) on it, you can run with any of the supercars, including C5 Vettes, M3 BMWs, 911s, 5.0s, Supra, RX7 TT, 300 ZX TT, etc. This includes street, drags and road racing. Depending on what you buy, you can be in supercar territory for a total investmeent of as little as $5,000-$10,000.

My local tuner just bought a 91 VR4 for $3500 off E-Bay, for example. He's planning to put $4400 into it, and expects to dominate the street racing scene around here. So that's a total of $9,000 for what is expected to be a 12-second car.

A Supra can generate a LOT more horsepower, but they tend to be more expensive. Check prices, and you'll probably spend $5-8,000 more for a same-year Supra.

No matter what you do, you cannot run with $125,000 Porsche AWD TTs and modded Vipers. Those people have more money than brains, and they will always outspend us.

The jury is still out on Z06 Vettes, Cobra Rs, new M3s and new 911s. I have not run against any of these on a track yet this year. We'll see.

In short, VR4 are magnificent cars, handle well even when stock, and can be modded up for a reasonable amount of money.

Rich/slow old poop/94 VR4

***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***

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Date: Sun, 14 Apr 2002 16:33:58 -0700 (PDT)
From: Geoff Mohler <gemohler@www.speedtoys.com>
Subject: Re: Team3S: advantages

> If you purchase any year VR4 and put about $3,000 worth of mods (springs, Porsche brakes, boost controller, Stillen, etc.) on it, you can run with any of the supercars, including C5 Vettes, M3 BMWs, 911s, 5.0s, Supra, RX7 TT, 300 ZX TT, etc. This includes street, drags and road racing. Depending on what you buy, you can be in supercar territory for a total investmeent of as little as $5,000-$10,000.
- ---
??

I dunno about the RX7 there Rich..C5s are easy for me, the Z06's are a
tough haul..but can be gotten (all driver with me and those there).

Im still waiting for a good run with a VR4 in the RX7..hopefully this year
I'll get a chance.
 
***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***

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Date: Sun, 14 Apr 2002 19:30:44 EDT
From: M3000GTSL84@aol.com
Subject: Re: Team3S: advantages

The corvette is such a different driving experiance, and while its fast,
there a alot on the road. And ever been inside one? it looks like chevy took
the dash from a malibu, then put more cut lines in it-not very attractive.
The Surpa is very nice, one of my favorite cars-but nothing compares to the
style the 3000GT has. Like Flash says, AWD is a huge advantage in driving.
The car is heavier then the others, but its not slow by any means, and you
can overcome the others by simply adding power.

I get people come up to me all the time saying-wow what is that, and i only
have an SL. 

The only problem i would say is finding parts. it will cost money to fix as
well, unless you can do some labor yourself. But then again, RX-7, 300ZX,
3000GT, Supra arent made anymore so you'll have that problem no matter what.
unless u want to wait for a 350Z (no where near as fast or competant), or
spend 50 grand on a Z06 with pushrod technology ,your best bet is a VR-4

- -mike

***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***

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Date: Sun, 14 Apr 2002 18:40:28 -0500
From: "merritt@cedar-rapids.net" <merritt@cedar-rapids.net>
Subject: Re: Team3S: advantages

Isn't your RX7 an all-out racer?

I have trouble with all kinds of out-and-out racers, including Neons, 914s, and similar cars that weigh 1,500 lb, don't brake for turns, and corner at retina-tearing G forces.

I was talking about keeping up with new $65,000 street cars with certain amounts of mods, but (like my car) not race-prepped. I have NEVER encounted an RX7 doorslammer that gave me an ounce of difficulty, but I've had my doors blown off by instructors in race-prepped 4 cylinder 914s.
Rich

Geoff said:
>I dunno about the RX7 there Rich..C5s are easy for me, the Z06's are a
>tough haul..but can be gotten (all driver with me and those there).
>Im still waiting for a good run with a VR4 in the RX7..hopefully this year
>I'll get a chance.

***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***

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Date: Sun, 14 Apr 2002 19:40:26 -0400
From: "Mike Frey" <mike21b@ptd.net>
Subject: Team3S: 160,000 mile service

My 92 RT/TT now has 160,000 miles. In it's lifetime, all that has been done
to it is tires, brakes, timing belt and tune up at 100,000 miles. That's
all. It looks pretty darn good for it's age too. Never left me sit, always
ran fine. I got it at 50,000 and took good care of it since, but whoever had
it before me thrashed it thoroughly - you could tell be the curb scrapes,
dents, and each tire had about 5-10 plugs in it.

Yeah, 2nd gear is about shot.

It doesn't feel as solid as it once did, I suspect worn suspension
components. It rattles over highway bumps and doesn't track without constant
correction in the steering wheel.

So... what should I do with it to bring it back to "good condition"?

Trans and transfer case - Kormex rebuild

Suspension - ????

Any other suggestions?

I watched a 92 RT/TT with 14,000 miles go for $14,900; I was sorely tempted
to bid on it, but figured I could put a few thousand into mine and make it
nice again. It's no longer my daily driver so I could do without it for a
while.

Mike
http://home.dejazzd.com/mike21b/Pictures.htm


***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***

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Date: Sun, 14 Apr 2002 18:54:15 -0500
From: "merritt@cedar-rapids.net" <merritt@cedar-rapids.net>
Subject: Re: Team3S: 160,000 mile service

At 07:40 PM 4/14/02 -0400, Mike Frey wrote:
>My 92 RT/TT now has 160,000 miles.
>So... what should I do with it to bring it back to "good condition"?
>
Turn it into a racer. Replace every worn part with a racing part. You've gotten your money's worth out of it. Now it's time to go have some fun drag racing, autocrossing or open tracking.

Rich/slow old poop/94 V4

***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***

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Date: Sun, 14 Apr 2002 19:59:12 -0400
From: "Mike Frey" <mike21b@ptd.net>
Subject: Re: Team3S: 160,000 mile service

Nah, don't want to race it! I want to drive it!

Between work, golf, and travel, I have little time to find another
addiction!


***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***

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Date: Sun, 14 Apr 2002 17:06:35 -0700 (PDT)
From: Geoff Mohler <gemohler@www.speedtoys.com>
Subject: Re: Team3S: advantages

> Isn't your RX7 an all-out racer?
- ---
Thats what I use it for, but it has an amazing $150 invested in mods..a
used cat-back and a used intake.
 
***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***

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Date: Sun, 14 Apr 2002 19:03:42 -0500
From: "merritt@cedar-rapids.net" <merritt@cedar-rapids.net>
Subject: Re: Team3S: 160,000 mile service

I can dig that.
To each his own, and more power to you.
Rich

Mike Frey wrote:
>Nah, don't want to race it! I want to drive it!
>Between work, golf, and travel, I have little time to find another
>addiction!

***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***

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Date: Sun, 14 Apr 2002 19:13:43 -0500
From: "merritt@cedar-rapids.net" <merritt@cedar-rapids.net>
Subject: Re: Team3S: advantages

At 05:06 PM 4/14/02 -0700, Geoff Mohler wrote:
>> Isn't your RX7 an all-out racer?
>---
>Thats what I use it for, but it has an amazing $150 invested in mods..a
>used cat-back and a used intake.

Aha! Now I remember: You have a twin-turbo RX7.

Yep, those turbo RX7 cars are pretty dang fast. I have never encountered one in my run groups, so I can't compare. They are more rare than VR4s at open track events. They have plenty of horsepower, but I hear they are hard to drive fast with their RWD. Solid axle, right?

Rich

***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***

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Date: Sun, 14 Apr 2002 17:38:39 -0700
From: "Dr. John A. Tabler" <jtabler@summitmicro.com>
Subject: Team3S: mystery warning light

Hi All,
I have misplaced my owner's manual, and need a little information.
(1992 3000 GT VR4)

What is the warning light on the extreme right of the gauge cluster,
third from the top, next to the speedometer (sort of "between" 165 and
170 mph) that looks like a little orange almost empty fluid tank?
Is this indicating low engine coolant?

Thanks,
John

***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***

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Date: Sun, 14 Apr 2002 19:31:51 -0500
From: "Oskar Persson" <osk@attbi.com>
Subject: RE: Team3S: Gingerman Raceway report - double clutching

Great to hear that you had a good time Philip.  I just have one question.
Why do you recommend double clutching?  How does that make you any faster?
I don't see the point of double clutching since all gears in our
transmissions have synchros.

Oskar
'95 R/T TT
also hooked on open tracking

- -----Original Message-----
From: owner-team3s@team3s.com [mailto:owner-team3s@team3s.com]On Behalf
Of Philip V. Glazatov
Sent: Saturday, April 13, 2002 11:50 PM
To: team3s@team3s.com; a23Si@yahoogroups.com
Cc: awh5@dcx.com
Subject: Team3S: Gingerman Raceway report - first impressions

Guys, learn double clutching. I am glad I learned it earlier this year
because it is critical. Without it I would have been the last car on the
track.

***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***

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Date: Sun, 14 Apr 2002 20:42:19 EDT
From: M3000GTSL84@aol.com
Subject: Re: Team3S: mystery warning light

it is low coolant john-fill it back up and your good to go. but you might
have a leak or bad cap as i did, so pressure test your system for leaks.

- -mike

***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***

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Date: Sun, 14 Apr 2002 21:31:48 -0400
From: "Dennis and Anita Moore" <stealth@quixnet.net>
Subject: Re: Team3S: mystery warning light

Does it only come on when you're turning a corner?  If so, it's probably the
windshield washer fluid.  Otherwise, it's your collant.  As suggested by
another member, if it's the coolant, you might want to find out why it's
leaking.

Dennis Moore
93 Stealth ES

- ----- Original Message -----
From: "Dr. John A. Tabler" <jtabler@summitmicro.com>
To: "team3s stealth-3000gt" <team3s@stealth-3000gt.st>
Sent: Sunday, April 14, 2002 8:38 PM
Subject: Team3S: mystery warning light

Hi All,
I have misplaced my owner's manual, and need a little information.
(1992 3000 GT VR4)

What is the warning light on the extreme right of the gauge cluster,
third from the top, next to the speedometer (sort of "between" 165 and
170 mph) that looks like a little orange almost empty fluid tank?
Is this indicating low engine coolant?

Thanks,
John

***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 14 Apr 2002 19:07:05 -0700 (PDT)
From: menalteed <menalteed@yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: Team3S: mystery warning light

It is the window washer fluid level, I remember I also
had some thoughts the first time it came on, it looks
like it should be the radiator, but on my 92 the
radiator light is lower near the bottom of the gauges.

peter 92 Stealth

***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 14 Apr 2002 19:17:37 -0700 (PDT)
From: Geoff Mohler <gemohler@www.speedtoys.com>
Subject: Re: Team3S: advantages

Nope.

Best sticking RWD car ive been in.  And its independant rear..no solid
axle.

Torsen LSD is nice.

Ive not once gotten the rear end out, and ive tried.

16x8s up front with 245s, and 17x10s in the rear with 275s...the other rx7
paople get a laugh out of it, until they go for a ride. 

The RX7s are very thin at the events..sadly enough.

On Sun, 14 Apr 2002, merritt@cedar-rapids.net wrote:

> At 05:06 PM 4/14/02 -0700, Geoff Mohler wrote:
> >> Isn't your RX7 an all-out racer?
> >---
> >Thats what I use it for, but it has an amazing $150 invested in mods..a
> >used cat-back and a used intake.
>
> Aha! Now I remember: You have a twin-turbo RX7.
>
> Yep, those turbo RX7 cars are pretty dang fast. I have never encountered one in my run groups, so I can't compare. They are more rare than VR4s at open track events. They have plenty of horsepower, but I hear they are hard to drive fast with their RWD. Solid axle, right?
>
> Rich

- ---
Geoff Mohler

***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 14 Apr 2002 19:36:00 -0700
From: "MThompson" <mathompson@cox.net>
Subject: RE: Team3S: mystery warning light

John,

Once you fill up the windshield washer tank and the light still comes on,
fill up the rear washer tank.  This one stumped me for a few days.  I will
not say how many. :)

M

- -----Original Message-----
From: owner-team3s@team3s.com [mailto:owner-team3s@team3s.com]On Behalf Of
Dr. John A. Tabler
Sent: Sunday, April 14, 2002 5:39 PM
To: team3s stealth-3000gt
Subject: Team3S: mystery warning light

Hi All,
I have misplaced my owner's manual, and need a little information.
(1992 3000 GT VR4)

What is the warning light on the extreme right of the gauge cluster,
third from the top, next to the speedometer (sort of "between" 165 and
170 mph) that looks like a little orange almost empty fluid tank?
Is this indicating low engine coolant?

Thanks,
John

***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 14 Apr 2002 20:05:20 -0700
From: "fastmax" <fastmax@cox.net>
Subject: Re: Team3S: Gingerman Raceway report - double clutching

Double clutching saves wear and tear on the syncros and the rev
matching portion of the shift helps keep the car stable when entering
a corner ---- smooth entry equal higher speeds.

I use double clutching on the street for practice and to save the
synchros. At the track I could probably do without it and not see any
big difference in my lap times but it would still help the synchros. The
reason for that is that I'm not driving close enough to the limit of the
car to make a difference [ I am driving at the limit of the driver a lot ].

        Jim Berry
===================================================

- ----- Original Message -----
From: "Oskar Persson" <osk@attbi.com>

> Great to hear that you had a good time Philip.  I just have one question.
> Why do you recommend double clutching?  How does that make you any faster?
> I don't see the point of double clutching since all gears in our
> transmissions have synchros.
>
> Oskar
> '95 R/T TT
> also hooked on open tracking

***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 14 Apr 2002 20:17:28 -0700
From: "fastmax" <fastmax@cox.net>
Subject: Re: Team3S: Gingerman Raceway report - first impressions

FWIW --- I installed a shift light on the column to remind me when
to shift in the heat of battle. I have it set for 6k to save wear and
tear on the engine but I can run it to redline if need be.

    Jim Berry
==============================================

- ----- Original Message -----
From: "Philip V. Glazatov" <gphilip@umich.edu>

> Hi Team!
>
> I am back from the Gingerman Raceway

> The stock exhaust is too quiet for racing. I hit the rev limiter three
> times when passing other cars. Maybe I should just move the rev limiter. ;-)
>


***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***

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Date: Sun, 14 Apr 2002 23:45:12 -0400
From: "Philip V. Glazatov" <gphilip@umich.edu>
Subject: Re: Team3S: Gingerman Raceway report - double clutching

Some guys are lucky that they have good fresh transmissions and they never
even feel a need to double clutch while downshifting. My transmission is
not to bad either, but I often get grr-grr-grr-rrrrr when I approach a turn
at high speed and try to downshift at the same time and I cannot jam it
into gear. Usually it is the second gear that gives me that problem. But on
a track you have to be in gear before the turn, otherwise there is a risk
of losing control trying to roll through it in neutral or on the brakes. So
I have to double clutch just to be safe.

The synchros on our cars are also underdesigned. It is a good idea to be as
easy on them as possible. Double clutching matches the speeds of the
transmission input shaft and the gear that you want to use, therefore
making the job of the synchros much easier.

Philip

At 11:05 PM 4/14/2002, fastmax wrote:
>Double clutching saves wear and tear on the syncros and the rev
>matching portion of the shift helps keep the car stable when entering
>a corner ---- smooth entry equal higher speeds.
>
>I use double clutching on the street for practice and to save the
>synchros. At the track I could probably do without it and not see any
>big difference in my lap times but it would still help the synchros. The
>reason for that is that I'm not driving close enough to the limit of the
>car to make a difference [ I am driving at the limit of the driver a lot ].
>
>         Jim Berry

***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 14 Apr 2002 20:57:57 -0700
From: "fastmax" <fastmax@cox.net>
Subject: Re: Team3S: Replacing Crankshaft

Take a look at the archives for the last couple of months --- I wrote several
messages about my crankshaft ordeal. Were I you, and was buying a
replacement I'd be sure to get the forged crank.

        Jim Berry
================================================
- ----- Original Message -----
From: <JayBobski@aol.com>
To: <Team3S@stealth-3000gt.st>
Sent: Sunday, April 14, 2002 11:49 AM
Subject: Team3S: Replacing Crankshaft

>   I am replacing my crankshaft on my  91 VR4 and am looking for advice on
> bearings and tolerances etc. what to look for etc.
>
> Thanks,
>
> John Janicek

***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***

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Date: Sun, 14 Apr 2002 23:17:10 -0500
From: "William Jeffrey Crabtree" <wjcrabtree@earthlink.net>
Subject: Re: Team3S: Replacing Crankshaft

John et al,

Call ANGELO at Mike's automotive.  He's doing the machine work on my motor
for me and seems to know what he's talking about.

- -Jeff Crabtree
    '91 R/T TT(3SI#0499)
        2K Wrangler TJ Sport
            St. Louis, MO

>   I am replacing my crankshaft on my  91 VR4 and am looking for advice on
> bearings and tolerances etc. what to look for etc.
>
> Thanks,
>
> John Janicek

***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 15 Apr 2002 04:20:25 +0000
From: apedenko@attbi.com
Subject: RE: Team3S: mystery warning light

Easy way to tell (aside from filling up the tanks) -
the windshield fluid light doesn't come on along with
all the other lights when you first turn the ignition
on. The radiator light does. It is also in the lower-
most right hand corner of the instrument cluster.

Alex.

'95 Vr4 with experience in both lights.
> John,
>
> Once you fill up the windshield washer tank and the light still comes on,
> fill up the rear washer tank.  This one stumped me for a few days.  I will
> not say how many. :)
>
> M

***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 14 Apr 2002 23:21:55 -0500
From: "William Jeffrey Crabtree" <wjcrabtree@earthlink.net>
Subject: Re: Team3S: Replacing Crankshaft

OOPS...I'm still getting used to outlook guys....sorry.  I used to use
netscape

The URL for Mike's automotive is www.stlouisengines.com

- -Jeff Crabtree
    '91 R/T TT(3SI#0499)
        2K Wrangler TJ Sport
            St. Louis, MO

I am replacing my crankshaft on my  91 VR4 and am looking for advice on
> bearings and tolerances etc. what to look for etc.
>
> Thanks,
>
> John Janicek

***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 15 Apr 2002 05:17:12 +0000
From: apedenko@attbi.com
Subject: Team3S: Somewhat OT: Wiring issues

Okay this is somewhat off topic, so please responses
off list

I'm making an RCA (A/V) input selector for the car
(doing a little a/v setup up front)

I have two inputs (3 signals each - L/R/V) and one
output and I need to switch between the two. I've used
PC relays to do the switching. BUT - here's the but i
know that relays have two nasty properties - 1 they
have an electro magnet inside, so they could introduce
noise to the analog signal. And two - when the relays
flip, there are current spikes in the data lines, large
enough to fry sensetive electronics. Now I know that to
prevent those spikes from being too dangerous, I need
to hook up a capacitor between the signal ground and
the signal inputs. What i don't know is the size of the
cap. If the cap i put in is too large, it will also
introduce noise into the system. If it's too small, it
won't divert enough current to prevent problems. I
believe that the current in an unamplified rca line is
around 1/2A AC. I know there's a formula somewhere out
there that lets you figure this out, I just don't know
what it is.

Also - do i need to separate the signal ground from the
power ground?

One more question - does anyone have a pinout for the
stock head unit connector? I need to hijack it and
don't want to spend all day figuring out what's what.

Thanks,

  Alex.

'95 VR4

***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 15 Apr 2002 05:46:28 +0000
From: apedenko@attbi.com
Subject: Team3S: Stock lighting control system

Okay - I was flipping through Jeff Lucius' site and
stubmled onto the rewiring guide that says how to
rewire the headlights to use relays to turn them on and
off. Now, this is obviously only applicable if our
system doesn't already do that. Does anybody know?
Would we benefit from this?

I'm also considering doing a true HID conversion. Where
do i start?

Here's the link (taken from Jeff's site -
www.stealth316.com)

http://lighting.mbz.org/tech/how_to/relays/

Thanks,

  Alex

'95 Vr4

***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 15 Apr 2002 08:47:44 -0600
From: "Floyd, Jim" <Jim_Floyd@maxtor.com>
Subject: RE: Team3S: Gingerman Raceway report - first impressions

Jim,

Whose shift light did you install ?

- -----Original Message-----
From: fastmax [mailto:fastmax@cox.net]
Sent: Sunday, April 14, 2002 9:17 PM
To: team3s@team3s.com; a23Si@yahoogroups.com; Philip V. Glazatov
Cc: awh5@dcx.com
Subject: Re: Team3S: Gingerman Raceway report - first impressions


FWIW --- I installed a shift light on the column to remind me when
to shift in the heat of battle. I have it set for 6k to save wear and
tear on the engine but I can run it to redline if need be.

    Jim Berry

***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 15 Apr 2002 11:47:41 -0400
From: Jeff.A.Williamson@jci.com
Subject: Team3S: Strange Engine "Hoot Owl" Sound (Kinda Long)

Sorry, this is gonna be kinda long, but I've reached a point of extreme
frustration. My car has been plaguing me with a strange noise for several
months now. I've checked everything I know to check and don't know what
else to look for. The sound is like a hoot-owl would make (also sounds like
when you blow air across the top of a half-empty bottle of beer!), and
occurs within a second or two after letting off the throttle after seeing
any decrease in vacuum or increase in boost at all. This is not the
"honking goose" sound that a bad BOV makes. It is somewhat inconsistent in
that it does it sometimes more than others, or is sometimes much louder
than others. And I haven't been able to pin the problem to within any
specific engine or air temperatures. It's also difficult to pinpoint the
location of the sound, although it does sound as if it may be coming from
the rear turbo area, as I can only hear it when the car is being driven and
the engine is under some load. And just for reference, the sound started a
few months after I installed the ARC2 fuel controller with the new MAS and
big K&N, and 357 turbos. At that time, I also installed a new intake plenum
gasket.

I've also noticed that the BOV does not blow as loud as it once did. It's
as though this unspent boost pressure is blowing off through some other
means than the BOV. Someone suggested that it may be one of the check
valves in either the Brake or Clutch booster hoses, which would allow air
to push against the rubber diaphragm in the booster, and would probably
make a sound similar to what I am hearing. But I've checked both of these
valves, as well as the purge control valve, the PCV valve, the EGR valve,
and replaced most of the vacuum hoses with silicon hose. I removed,
checked, and re-installed the throttle-body and intake plenum gaskets. I've
also replaced the old HKS SBOV with a stock BOV, and then a new HKS SSBOV,
and the hoot-owl was still there with all of them, so I don't believe it
has anything to do with whether my BOV is venting to atmosphere or not.

At one point, I thought the problem was fixed when I removed and
re-installed the turbo intake hose, but the sound later returned. I've
checked every hose I could see for cracks or loose connections. I made a
pressure test adapter per J.Lucias's website and pressurised the whole
intake/intercooler system with an air compressor. I fixed any leaks I found
(all very minor and only at 18+psi), but the problem persists.  On the
road, the turbos seem to hold boost as well as they always have, but again,
the blow-off sound is very wimpy. And on the dyno, my car was not making as
much horsepower as others with similar mods.

Additionally, I've had to increase the fuel enrichment settings on my fuel
controller to keep from running too lean, and my fuel mileage has dropped
significantly. I also have trouble maintaining consistent settings on the
fuel controller, as the O2 readings with optimal settings seem to fluctuate
from day to day. And more recently, I've noticed a slight backfiring
(popping) of the exhaust during decelleration while in gear.

It's almost as though the intake is sucking air that is bypassing the MAS,
and blowing air out of this same place after letting off the throttle. It
sounds like I may have answered my own question, but I just can't find
where the problem may be. I'm stumped. Any suggestions? Is there something
I've overlooked? Could it possibly be something in the rear turbo itself?
Has anyone else ever had the "hoot-owl" before?

Jeff W.
'92VR4
Belleville, MI

***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 15 Apr 2002 11:00:29 -0500
From: "Willis, Charles E." <cewillis@TexasChildrensHospital.org>
Subject: RE: Team3S: Strange Engine "Hoot Owl" Sound (Kinda Long)

FAQ - doesn't hurt anything and disappears if you install the DSM (eclipse)
BOV available from Boschur

http://www.buschurracing.com/buschur/BRwebsite.nsf/Catalog?OpenFrameSet

[Willis, Charles E.]  BTW, I have a wav file of the sound if you
would like it!

> -----Original Message-----
> From: Jeff.A.Williamson@jci.com [SMTP:Jeff.A.Williamson@jci.com]
> Sent: Monday, April 15, 2002 10:48 AM
> To: team3S@stealth-3000gt.st
> Subject: Team3S: Strange Engine "Hoot Owl" Sound (Kinda Long)
>
> Has anyone else ever had the "hoot-owl" before?
>
> Jeff W.
> '92VR4
> Belleville, MI

***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 15 Apr 2002 12:39:04 -0400
From: "Alan Sheffield" <a92rttt@hotmail.com>
Subject: Re: Team3S: Strange Engine "Hoot Owl" Sound (Kinda Long)

Your reply would make more sense had Jeff not said " This is not the
"honking goose" sound that a bad BOV makes". Jeff is already running with a
after market BOV.

Read, then answer.

Alan
- ----- Original Message -----
From: "Willis, Charles E." <cewillis@TexasChildrensHospital.org>
> FAQ - doesn't hurt anything and disappears if you install the DSM
(eclipse)
> BOV available from Boschur

***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 15 Apr 2002 12:46:24 -0400
From: "Furman, Russell" <RFurman2@MassMutual.com>
Subject: Team3S: Wheels    Kinda OT

Was surfing the net here at work and cam across CF wheels with aluminum
centers?!?!?!?

Figured some of the racers would find this interesting and some the tech
guys could chew on this for a while and then spit out why they wouldn't work
etc.....   ;)

http://www.azev.com  click on the English tab (unless you speak German)
then click on the what's new tab and CF wheel link

Russ F
CT

***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 15 Apr 2002 11:51:08 -0500
From: "Willis, Charles E." <cewillis@TexasChildrensHospital.org>
Subject: RE: Team3S: Wheels    Kinda OT

http://www.azev.com/listen_eint_alle/mitsubishi3000gt.htm

> -----Original Message-----
> From: Furman, Russell [SMTP:RFurman2@MassMutual.com]
> Sent: Monday, April 15, 2002 11:46 AM
> To: 'Team 3S'
> Subject: Team3S: Wheels    Kinda OT
>
>
> Figured some of the racers would find this interesting and some the tech
> guys could chew on this for a while and then spit out why they wouldn't
> work
> etc.....   ;)

***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 15 Apr 2002 12:54:30 -0400
From: "Furman, Russell" <RFurman2@MassMutual.com>
Subject: RE: Team3S: Wheels    Kinda OT

That's great Chuck.... one problem I don't read/speak/understand a lick of
German!

Hey Roger or anyone else can you please translate that mess below......

> -----Original Message-----
> From: Willis, Charles E. [SMTP:cewillis@TexasChildrensHospital.org]
> Sent: Monday, April 15, 2002 12:51 PM
> To: Furman, Russell; 'Team 3S'
> Subject: RE: Team3S: Wheels    Kinda OT
>
> http://www.azev.com/listen_eint_alle/mitsubishi3000gt.htm
>
> > -----Original Message-----
> > From: Furman, Russell [SMTP:RFurman2@MassMutual.com]
> > Sent: Monday, April 15, 2002 11:46 AM
> > To: 'Team 3S'
> > Subject: Team3S: Wheels    Kinda OT
> >
> >
> > Figured some of the racers would find this interesting and some the tech
> > guys could chew on this for a while and then spit out why they wouldn't
> > work
> > etc.....   ;)

***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 15 Apr 2002 11:55:29 -0500
From: "Willis, Charles E." <cewillis@TexasChildrensHospital.org>
Subject: RE: Team3S: Strange Engine "Hoot Owl" Sound (Kinda Long)

I really don't care that he is running an aftermarket BOV.  The only success
I've had eliminating this sound is with the Boschur DSM BOV.  It's not
caused by a "bad BOV", it's caused by adding the K&N filtercharger.

Don't believe everything you read,  then answer.

Chuck

> -----Original Message-----
> From: Alan Sheffield [SMTP:a92rttt@hotmail.com]
> Sent: Monday, April 15, 2002 11:39 AM
> To: team3S@stealth-3000gt.st
> Subject: Re: Team3S: Strange Engine "Hoot Owl" Sound (Kinda Long)
>
> Your reply would make more sense had Jeff not said " This is not the
> "honking goose" sound that a bad BOV makes". Jeff is already running with
> a
> after market BOV.
>
> Read, then answer.
>
> Alan

***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 15 Apr 2002 11:59:21 -0500
From: "Willis, Charles E." <cewillis@TexasChildrensHospital.org>
Subject: RE: Team3S: Wheels    Kinda OT

Was wollen Sie?  Egg in Sein Bier?

I started in the English section and when I did a search to find our cars,
it threw me into Deutsche Sprache!

I figure they offer the wheels marked with a check, all look to be 18" with
different widths (8, 8 1/2, etc).

Does that jive with what you see at the link?

Chuck
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Furman, Russell [SMTP:RFurman2@MassMutual.com]
> Sent: Monday, April 15, 2002 11:55 AM
> To: 'Willis, Charles E.'
> Cc: 'Team 3S'
> Subject: RE: Team3S: Wheels    Kinda OT
>
> That's great Chuck.... one problem I don't read/speak/understand a lick of
> German!
>
> Hey Roger or anyone else can you please translate that mess below......

***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***

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Date: Mon, 15 Apr 2002 13:02:40 -0400
From: "Furman, Russell" <RFurman2@MassMutual.com>
Subject: RE: Team3S: Wheels    Kinda OT

Yup 18/8.5 and 18/10   all options appear to be 30MM offset,  but darn a 10"
wheel that's allot of rubber you need stick on there and then the joys of
trying to lower the car more than 1"

> -----Original Message-----
> From: Willis, Charles E. [SMTP:cewillis@TexasChildrensHospital.org]
> Sent: Monday, April 15, 2002 12:59 PM
> To: Furman, Russell
> Cc: 'Team 3S'
> Subject: RE: Team3S: Wheels    Kinda OT
>
> Was wollen Sie?  Egg in Sein Bier?
>
> I started in the English section and when I did a search to find our cars,
> it threw me into Deutsche Sprache!
>
> I figure they offer the wheels marked with a check, all look to be 18"
> with
> different widths (8, 8 1/2, etc).
>
> Does that jive with what you see at the link?
>
> Chuck

***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 15 Apr 2002 12:06:43 -0500
From: "Willis, Charles E." <cewillis@TexasChildrensHospital.org>
Subject: RE: Team3S: Wheels    Kinda OT

I'm not interested anyhow unless they have one in 17".  18" tires are just
too expensive and unusual in the track variety.

Chuck Willis
(corded yet another 17" AO32R last time)

> -----Original Message-----
> From: Furman, Russell [SMTP:RFurman2@MassMutual.com]
> Sent: Monday, April 15, 2002 12:03 PM
> To: 'Willis, Charles E.'
> Cc: 'Team 3S'
> Subject: RE: Team3S: Wheels    Kinda OT
>
> Yup 18/8.5 and 18/10   all options appear to be 30MM offset,  but darn a
> 10"
> wheel that's allot of rubber you need stick on there and then the joys of
> trying to lower the car more than 1"

***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 15 Apr 2002 10:09:08 -0700
From: Michael Gerhard <gerhard1@llnl.gov>
Subject: Team3S: Source for Porterfield Brake Pads

I'm wondering if anyone out there has a good on-line source for Porterfield
brake pads for our cars. I want to have a few extra sets of front pads for
my trips to the track this year. Thanks.

Michael A. Gerhard     1991 Mitsubishi 3000GT VR4  Pearl White

***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 15 Apr 2002 18:30:42 +0100
From: "George Shaw" <george.shaw@btinternet.com>
Subject: Team3S: Up For sale 3000GT UK

I may have my UK spec 3000GT (1995, leather, moon roof, blue) up for
sale soon. If anyone is interested please contact me off list.

George Shaw

Mobile: +44 (0) 7740 361 163
Email: george.shaw@ukf.net

***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 15 Apr 2002 12:40:01 -0500
From: "Mark Wendlandt" <stealth_tt@hotmail.com>
Subject: Re: Team3S: Source for Porterfield Brake Pads

http://www.porterfield-brakes.com/

When you call, tell them that you are a member of 3si and you will get a
discount (20% I believe).

Mark Wendlandt

>From: Michael Gerhard <gerhard1@llnl.gov>
>To: team3S@stealth-3000gt.st
>Subject: Team3S: Source for Porterfield Brake Pads
>Date: Mon, 15 Apr 2002 10:09:08 -0700
>
>I'm wondering if anyone out there has a good on-line source for Porterfield
>brake pads for our cars. I want to have a few extra sets of front pads for
>my trips to the track this year. Thanks.
>
>Michael A. Gerhard     1991 Mitsubishi 3000GT VR4  Pearl White

***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***

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End of Team3S: 3000GT & Stealth V1 #812
***************************************