Team3S: 3000GT & Stealth Monday, April 15
2002 Volume 01 : Number
812
----------------------------------------------------------------------
Date:
Sun, 14 Apr 2002 13:45:30 -0400
From: "Philip V. Glazatov" <gphilip@umich.edu>
Subject: RE:
Team3S: Gingerman Raceway report - first impressions
At 01:32 AM
4/14/2002, Darren Schilberg wrote:
> Yes you need brake
fluid so it does not boil although your problem
>was brake pads but
upgrade those suckers and you will boil fluid. Motul
>600 or
something similar for higher temps.
Where is a good place to buy
Motul?
> And rotors has been a tricky
discussion. Cryo-treating DOES make
>them last longer under normal
conditions. I personally warped a set of
>Porterfield cryo-treated
ones so until I fix that problem I will get
>just some solid ones for next
time.
What do you consider "normal conditions"? And is there any way to
fix that
problem?
Philip
*** Info: http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Sun, 14 Apr 2002 18:37:14
+0000
From: mjannusch@attbi.com
Subject: Re:
Team3S: Timing belt adjust
Make sure you install the belt in the right
order.
Start at the crank sprocket and install it
counterclockwise
around the sprockets and guides.
Align the rear bank exhaust sprocket,
then put a clip
or vice-grips on it (lightly!) to hold the belt in
place. Then continue working your way around, making
sure that
there's some tension on the belt so you don't
accidentally get misaligned
due to slack. All your
slack should then end up on the tensioner side
and the
marks shouldn't move around.
You also asked about which mark
on the crank sprocket
is the alignment mark - it is the tooth with the dot
that you want to align to the mark, same for the cam
sprockets.
Hope that helps...
- -Matt
'95 3000GT Spyder
VR4
> I am working on replacing my old timing belt. Everything seems to
be
> ok, but once I try to tighten down the belt, everything but
the
> crankshaft moves. That is, the top four shift a position, but
the
> crankshaft is still on mark.
*** Info: http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Sun, 14 Apr 2002 14:49:38
EDT
From: JayBobski@aol.com
Subject: Team3S:
Replacing Crankshaft
I am replacing my crankshaft on my 91
VR4 and am looking for advice on
bearings and tolerances etc. what to look
for etc.
Thanks,
John Janicek
*** Info: http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Sun, 14 Apr 2002 13:52:48
-0500
From: "cody" <overclck@satx.rr.com>
Subject: RE:
Team3S: Timing belt adjust
I will add, I found it easy to rotate the
crank sprocket 1 notch before
installing the timing belt on it... this way,
when the crank was turned
back 1 notch, all the slack was taken up and
everything aligned
perfectly...
- -Cody
- -----Original
Message-----
From: owner-team3s@team3s.com
[mailto:owner-team3s@team3s.com] On Behalf
Of mjannusch@attbi.com
Sent: Sunday, April
14, 2002 1:37 PM
To: Joseph Spainhour
Cc: team3S@stealth-3000gt.st
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Timing belt adjust
Make sure you install the belt in the
right order.
Start at the crank sprocket and install it
counterclockwise around the sprockets and guides.
Align the rear bank
exhaust sprocket, then put a clip
or vice-grips on it (lightly!) to hold the
belt in
place. Then continue working your way around, making
sure
that there's some tension on the belt so you don't
accidentally get
misaligned due to slack. All your
slack should then end up on the
tensioner side and the
marks shouldn't move around.
You also asked
about which mark on the crank sprocket
is the alignment mark - it is the
tooth with the dot
that you want to align to the mark, same for the cam
sprockets.
Hope that helps...
- -Matt
'95 3000GT Spyder
VR4
> I am working on replacing my old timing belt. Everything seems to
be
> ok, but once I try to tighten down the belt, everything but
the
> crankshaft moves. That is, the top four shift a position, but
the
> crankshaft is still on mark.
*** Info: http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Sun, 14 Apr 2002 15:12:02
-0400
From: "Philip V. Glazatov" <gphilip@umich.edu>
Subject: Team3S:
Gingerman Raceway report website is up!
Flash (Darren Schilberg) has put
up a nice web page with my track report
and new and improved smaller-sized
videos. He will post more
Intel-On-The-Side (TM) videos there later on after
converting them. Thanks
a lot to
Flash!
>www.Team3S.com/~dschilberg/cars/events/Gingerman/Gingerman.htm
Philip
***
Info: http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Sun, 14 Apr 2002 15:56:06
-0400
From: "Darren Schilberg" <dschilberg@pobox.com>
Subject: RE:
Team3S: Gingerman Raceway report - first impressions
Try this page for
the update on the Gingerman track report, pictures,
and video by
Philip. (remember to put the entire address in the
web
browser)
www.speedtoys.com/~dschilberg/cars/events/Gingerman/Gingerman.htm
-
--Flash!
*** Info: http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Sun, 14 Apr 2002 13:15:22
-0700 (PDT)
From: Kian Habib <ill1027@yahoo.com>
Subject: Team3S:
advantages
What are the advantages to buying a VR-4 over a
Toyota
Supra or a Corvette. Why would a VR-4 be better or
worse?
*** Info: http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Sun, 14 Apr 2002 16:23:37
-0400
From: "Darren Schilberg" <dschilberg@pobox.com>
Subject: RE:
3S-Racers: RE: Team3S: Gingerman Raceway report - first impressions
Motul
600? Geoff Mohler can get that for you.
There is other stuff (ATE
Super Blue I think and other stuff) but this
is what I use and it
works. Some have had luck with just the cheap Ford
Hi-Temp stuff but
when upgrading I like that part to never be the weak
part of the system
again.
Normal conditions is road/street use for the average grocery
getter and
vacation car. No hard stops above 35 mph, no high-speed
stops ever ...
that is normal conditions. Traffic light racing, higher
speed runs and
stabs at the brakes on Interstates, etc. are not normal
conditions. I
would call them elevated conditions. Open track is
a severe condition.
Make sense?
Read that open track priority list I
sent you. It spells it out there.
Normal condition might require street
performance pads or better brake
fluid. Elevated conditions might get
SS brake lines and better brake
fluid. Severe conditions might get the
race pads and cryo-treated
rotors. Is that easier to see?
The
easiest way to fix is look at your finances, see what yields the
best dollar
to performance. Rotors at about $150 last a good season of
about 3-6
events (or so). Pads last about the same (YMMV). You will
bleed
about a quart of brake fluid per brake bleed which should be
before each
event (if you do all four corners and bleed out more instead
of less to make
sure you get it all).
So if rotors are $150 and last all season.
Pads are $150 and last all
season. Brake fluid is $90 and you use half
of it for the season then
that is only $45 per season and a better deal,
right? SS brake lines
are up to $200 and last forever so that is hard
to judge. It will give
a firmer feel to the pedal so it is more of a
mental upgrade at the same
time. Tires are about $450 and last two
seasons. See how you can start
to chart this and find what mod will be
the best for your particular
car?
- --Flash!
www.schilberg.com
- -----Original
Message-----
From: Philip V. Glazatov
Sent: Sunday, April 14, 2002
13:46
Where is a good place to buy Motul?
What do you
consider "normal conditions"? And is there any way to fix
that
problem?
*** Info: http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Sun, 14 Apr 2002 16:28:52
-0400
From: "Darren Schilberg" <dschilberg@pobox.com>
Subject: RE:
Team3S: advantages
One word ... AWD.
I used to have a webpage of
some Nissan Skylines in Japan. One had a
manually controlled 2WD and
4WD button. The Skyline is RWD usually but
can nearly instantly switch
to 4WD (or AWD - I am not sure). Then
again, it might be 4WD and
switchable to RWD in some cases.
Anyway, this one driver took a slalom in
a parking lot with 2WD on and
slide the back out like RWD cars do. He
did the same thing with 4WD on
and stuck like glue. Amazing to see the
difference.
I have been saved more than once from hitting a guardrail or
sliding off
the race track with AWD and will hopefully never again chose a
2WD car.
If you are on this list then you already like our cars so why ask
about
others? =)
The Corvette and Supra both have more parts
available, both look nice,
sound nice, perform well, etc. If you get
past the AWD then it is up to
you to make the decision. To me, the AWD
(and AWS on mine) is just
another class higher to begin with. I just
love our AWD cars. The
Audi, BMW, Subaru, etc. and their AWD are good
too but I don't own one
of those right now.
What I really hate is when
some friend says, "But I've been driving RWD
cars for 20 years. I can
go faster around a course in my car than you
can." Well they are not
allowing themselves to learn how the AWD car
works, handles, performs,
etc. It is no question that in rainy, gravel,
slick, uneven road
surface, twisty, etc. conditions the AWD will always
(99% of the time)
outperform a RWD car (like Vette or Supra).
I assume you don't have the
money for a Z06, right?
- --Flash!
www.schilberg.com
- -----Original
Message-----
From: Kian Habib
Sent: Sunday, April 14, 2002
16:15
What are the advantages to buying a VR-4 over a
Toyota
Supra or a Corvette. Why would a VR-4 be better or
worse?
*** Info: http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Sun, 14 Apr 2002 13:38:33
-0700 (PDT)
From: Geoff Mohler <gemohler@www.speedtoys.com>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: advantages
More words: Acceptance in the aftermarket
world isnt as hot for the 4 as
the others.
I love the 4, but It
Depends(tm) what you want to do...as with anything
else.
On Sun, 14
Apr 2002, Darren Schilberg wrote:
> One word ... AWD.
>
>
I used to have a webpage of some Nissan Skylines in Japan. One had
a
> manually controlled 2WD and 4WD button. The Skyline is RWD
usually but
> can nearly instantly switch to 4WD (or AWD - I am not
sure). Then
> again, it might be 4WD and switchable to RWD in some
cases.
>
> Anyway, this one driver took a slalom in a parking lot
with 2WD on and
> slide the back out like RWD cars do. He did the
same thing with 4WD on
> and stuck like glue. Amazing to see the
difference.
>
> I have been saved more than once from hitting a
guardrail or sliding off
> the race track with AWD and will hopefully
never again chose a 2WD car.
> If you are on this list then you already
like our cars so why ask about
> others? =)
>
> The
Corvette and Supra both have more parts available, both look nice,
> sound
nice, perform well, etc. If you get past the AWD then it is up to
>
you to make the decision. To me, the AWD (and AWS on mine) is just
>
another class higher to begin with. I just love our AWD cars.
The
> Audi, BMW, Subaru, etc. and their AWD are good too but I don't own
one
> of those right now.
>
> What I really hate is when some
friend says, "But I've been driving RWD
> cars for 20 years. I can
go faster around a course in my car than you
> can." Well they are
not allowing themselves to learn how the AWD car
> works, handles,
performs, etc. It is no question that in rainy, gravel,
> slick,
uneven road surface, twisty, etc. conditions the AWD will always
> (99% of
the time) outperform a RWD car (like Vette or Supra).
>
> I assume
you don't have the money for a Z06, right?
>
> --Flash!
> www.schilberg.com
>
>
-----Original Message-----
> From: Kian Habib
> Sent: Sunday, April
14, 2002 16:15
>
> What are the advantages to buying a VR-4
over a Toyota
> Supra or a Corvette. Why would a VR-4 be better or
>
worse?
- ---
Geoff Mohler
*** Info: http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Sun, 14 Apr 2002 13:33:48
-0600
From: "Mike & Cathy" <micajoco@theofficenet.com>
Subject:
Team3S: rpm cut out
About 3 or 4 weeks ago someone was asking what caused
their engine to cut
out or stumble at 4500 to 5000 rpms. Did this question
get answered? Mine
stumbles at 5000 rpms and I can't find any thing. There
was talk about the
coils, was this it? Thanks
Mike S 92 rt
tt
*** Info: http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Sun, 14 Apr 2002 17:08:56
-0400
From: "Darren Schilberg" <dschilberg@pobox.com>
Subject: RE:
Team3S: advantages
That is a disadvantage, Geoff. He was asking
about Advantages.
Sure parts are not as available, cost more, labor on
the car costs more,
but you will get that with any 2-ton car that is not made
anymore.
One thing that is hard to count are the numerous waves and
questions I
get about my car. People wondering what it is, what it can
do, what it
has, etc. That is always a warm feeling. Everyone
knows what a Vette,
Camaro, Trans-Am, Supra, Celica, etc. have (or it seems
they do). And
being at a track event with Porsche or BMW or Audi and
performing as
well or better than their cars when they think they are doing
pretty
darn good. We show up as beginners to road track driving and
are
already about on the same level as they are. God that feels
good
sometimes.
Mine is also my only car. I don't have a fleet
to drive or maybe I
would have a different opinion. I have put about
48,000 miles on the
car in the last 22 months so I've gotten to know it
pretty well. Not
many cars are good performers both on the track,
street, and open
highway as well as have room for a good amount of luggage or
track
equipment like a hatchback.
For me, I directly replaced all the
amenities I had in my 1988 Acura
Legend L which were things like: power
driver seat with lumbar, power
outside heated mirrors, auto climate control,
power sunroof, and
leather. It added other things like a rear wiper,
AWD, and a shade more
power. But my only other options were BMW, Audi,
Lexus, Infinity, etc.
I wanted a manual tranny too. Hence the decision
to get my car (which
was on a lot near me at the time so it really made it
easy).
- --Flash!
1995 VR-4
- -----Original
Message-----
From: owner-team3s@team3s.com
[mailto:owner-team3s@team3s.com] On Behalf
Of Geoff Mohler
Sent: Sunday,
April 14, 2002 16:39
To: Darren Schilberg
Cc: team3s@stealth-3000gt.st
Subject:
RE: Team3S: advantages
More words: Acceptance in the aftermarket
world isnt as hot for the 4
as
the others.
I love the 4, but It
Depends(tm) what you want to do...as with anything
else.
***
Info: http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Sun, 14 Apr 2002 18:21:29
-0500
From: "merritt@cedar-rapids.net" <merritt@cedar-rapids.net>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: advantages
At 01:15 PM 4/14/02 -0700, Kian Habib
wrote:
>What are the advantages to buying a VR-4 over a
Toyota
>Supra or a Corvette. Why would a VR-4 be better or
>worse?
If you purchase any year VR4 and put about $3,000 worth of mods
(springs, Porsche brakes, boost controller, Stillen, etc.) on it, you can run
with any of the supercars, including C5 Vettes, M3 BMWs, 911s, 5.0s, Supra, RX7
TT, 300 ZX TT, etc. This includes street, drags and road racing. Depending on
what you buy, you can be in supercar territory for a total investmeent of as
little as $5,000-$10,000.
My local tuner just bought a 91 VR4 for $3500
off E-Bay, for example. He's planning to put $4400 into it, and expects to
dominate the street racing scene around here. So that's a total of $9,000 for
what is expected to be a 12-second car.
A Supra can generate a LOT more
horsepower, but they tend to be more expensive. Check prices, and you'll
probably spend $5-8,000 more for a same-year Supra.
No matter what you
do, you cannot run with $125,000 Porsche AWD TTs and modded Vipers. Those people
have more money than brains, and they will always outspend us.
The jury
is still out on Z06 Vettes, Cobra Rs, new M3s and new 911s. I have not run
against any of these on a track yet this year. We'll see.
In short, VR4
are magnificent cars, handle well even when stock, and can be modded up for a
reasonable amount of money.
Rich/slow old poop/94 VR4
***
Info: http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Sun, 14 Apr 2002 16:33:58
-0700 (PDT)
From: Geoff Mohler <gemohler@www.speedtoys.com>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: advantages
> If you purchase any year VR4 and put about
$3,000 worth of mods (springs, Porsche brakes, boost controller, Stillen, etc.)
on it, you can run with any of the supercars, including C5 Vettes, M3 BMWs,
911s, 5.0s, Supra, RX7 TT, 300 ZX TT, etc. This includes street, drags and road
racing. Depending on what you buy, you can be in supercar territory for a total
investmeent of as little as $5,000-$10,000.
- ---
??
I dunno about
the RX7 there Rich..C5s are easy for me, the Z06's are a
tough haul..but can
be gotten (all driver with me and those there).
Im still waiting for a
good run with a VR4 in the RX7..hopefully this year
I'll get a
chance.
*** Info: http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Sun, 14 Apr 2002 19:30:44
EDT
From: M3000GTSL84@aol.com
Subject: Re:
Team3S: advantages
The corvette is such a different driving experiance,
and while its fast,
there a alot on the road. And ever been inside one? it
looks like chevy took
the dash from a malibu, then put more cut lines in
it-not very attractive.
The Surpa is very nice, one of my favorite cars-but
nothing compares to the
style the 3000GT has. Like Flash says, AWD is a huge
advantage in driving.
The car is heavier then the others, but its not slow
by any means, and you
can overcome the others by simply adding power.
I get people come up to me all the time saying-wow what is that, and i
only
have an SL.
The only problem i would say is finding
parts. it will cost money to fix as
well, unless you can do some labor
yourself. But then again, RX-7, 300ZX,
3000GT, Supra arent made anymore so
you'll have that problem no matter what.
unless u want to wait for a 350Z
(no where near as fast or competant), or
spend 50 grand on a Z06 with
pushrod technology ,your best bet is a VR-4
- -mike
***
Info: http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Sun, 14 Apr 2002 18:40:28
-0500
From: "merritt@cedar-rapids.net" <merritt@cedar-rapids.net>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: advantages
Isn't your RX7 an all-out racer?
I have
trouble with all kinds of out-and-out racers, including Neons, 914s, and similar
cars that weigh 1,500 lb, don't brake for turns, and corner at retina-tearing G
forces.
I was talking about keeping up with new $65,000 street cars with
certain amounts of mods, but (like my car) not race-prepped. I have NEVER
encounted an RX7 doorslammer that gave me an ounce of difficulty, but I've had
my doors blown off by instructors in race-prepped 4 cylinder
914s.
Rich
Geoff said:
>I dunno about the RX7 there Rich..C5s
are easy for me, the Z06's are a
>tough haul..but can be gotten (all
driver with me and those there).
>Im still waiting for a good run with a
VR4 in the RX7..hopefully this year
>I'll get a chance.
***
Info: http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Sun, 14 Apr 2002 19:40:26
-0400
From: "Mike Frey" <mike21b@ptd.net>
Subject: Team3S:
160,000 mile service
My 92 RT/TT now has 160,000 miles. In it's lifetime,
all that has been done
to it is tires, brakes, timing belt and tune up at
100,000 miles. That's
all. It looks pretty darn good for it's age too. Never
left me sit, always
ran fine. I got it at 50,000 and took good care of it
since, but whoever had
it before me thrashed it thoroughly - you could tell
be the curb scrapes,
dents, and each tire had about 5-10 plugs in
it.
Yeah, 2nd gear is about shot.
It doesn't feel as solid as it
once did, I suspect worn suspension
components. It rattles over highway bumps
and doesn't track without constant
correction in the steering
wheel.
So... what should I do with it to bring it back to "good
condition"?
Trans and transfer case - Kormex rebuild
Suspension -
????
Any other suggestions?
I watched a 92 RT/TT with 14,000 miles
go for $14,900; I was sorely tempted
to bid on it, but figured I could put a
few thousand into mine and make it
nice again. It's no longer my daily driver
so I could do without it for a
while.
Mike
http://home.dejazzd.com/mike21b/Pictures.htm
***
Info: http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Sun, 14 Apr 2002 18:54:15
-0500
From: "merritt@cedar-rapids.net" <merritt@cedar-rapids.net>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: 160,000 mile service
At 07:40 PM 4/14/02 -0400, Mike Frey
wrote:
>My 92 RT/TT now has 160,000 miles.
>So... what should I do
with it to bring it back to "good condition"?
>
Turn it into a racer.
Replace every worn part with a racing part. You've gotten your money's worth out
of it. Now it's time to go have some fun drag racing, autocrossing or open
tracking.
Rich/slow old poop/94 V4
*** Info: http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Sun, 14 Apr 2002 19:59:12
-0400
From: "Mike Frey" <mike21b@ptd.net>
Subject: Re: Team3S:
160,000 mile service
Nah, don't want to race it! I want to drive
it!
Between work, golf, and travel, I have little time to find
another
addiction!
*** Info: http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Sun, 14 Apr 2002 17:06:35
-0700 (PDT)
From: Geoff Mohler <gemohler@www.speedtoys.com>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: advantages
> Isn't your RX7 an all-out racer?
-
---
Thats what I use it for, but it has an amazing $150 invested in
mods..a
used cat-back and a used intake.
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Sun, 14 Apr 2002 19:03:42
-0500
From: "merritt@cedar-rapids.net" <merritt@cedar-rapids.net>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: 160,000 mile service
I can dig that.
To each his own, and
more power to you.
Rich
Mike Frey wrote:
>Nah, don't want to
race it! I want to drive it!
>Between work, golf, and travel, I have
little time to find another
>addiction!
*** Info: http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Sun, 14 Apr 2002 19:13:43
-0500
From: "merritt@cedar-rapids.net" <merritt@cedar-rapids.net>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: advantages
At 05:06 PM 4/14/02 -0700, Geoff Mohler
wrote:
>> Isn't your RX7 an all-out racer?
>---
>Thats what
I use it for, but it has an amazing $150 invested in mods..a
>used
cat-back and a used intake.
Aha! Now I remember: You have a twin-turbo
RX7.
Yep, those turbo RX7 cars are pretty dang fast. I have never
encountered one in my run groups, so I can't compare. They are more rare than
VR4s at open track events. They have plenty of horsepower, but I hear they are
hard to drive fast with their RWD. Solid axle, right?
Rich
*** Info: http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Sun, 14 Apr 2002 17:38:39
-0700
From: "Dr. John A. Tabler" <jtabler@summitmicro.com>
Subject:
Team3S: mystery warning light
Hi All,
I have misplaced my owner's
manual, and need a little information.
(1992 3000 GT VR4)
What is the
warning light on the extreme right of the gauge cluster,
third from the top,
next to the speedometer (sort of "between" 165 and
170 mph) that looks like a
little orange almost empty fluid tank?
Is this indicating low engine
coolant?
Thanks,
John
*** Info: http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Sun, 14 Apr 2002 19:31:51
-0500
From: "Oskar Persson" <osk@attbi.com>
Subject: RE: Team3S:
Gingerman Raceway report - double clutching
Great to hear that you had a
good time Philip. I just have one question.
Why do you recommend double
clutching? How does that make you any faster?
I don't see the point of
double clutching since all gears in our
transmissions have
synchros.
Oskar
'95 R/T TT
also hooked on open tracking
-
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-team3s@team3s.com
[mailto:owner-team3s@team3s.com]On Behalf
Of Philip V. Glazatov
Sent:
Saturday, April 13, 2002 11:50 PM
To: team3s@team3s.com; a23Si@yahoogroups.com
Cc: awh5@dcx.com
Subject: Team3S: Gingerman
Raceway report - first impressions
Guys, learn double clutching. I am
glad I learned it earlier this year
because it is critical. Without it I
would have been the last car on the
track.
*** Info: http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Sun, 14 Apr 2002 20:42:19
EDT
From: M3000GTSL84@aol.com
Subject: Re:
Team3S: mystery warning light
it is low coolant john-fill it back up and
your good to go. but you might
have a leak or bad cap as i did, so pressure
test your system for leaks.
- -mike
*** Info: http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Sun, 14 Apr 2002 21:31:48
-0400
From: "Dennis and Anita Moore" <stealth@quixnet.net>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: mystery warning light
Does it only come on when you're turning a
corner? If so, it's probably the
windshield washer fluid.
Otherwise, it's your collant. As suggested by
another member, if it's
the coolant, you might want to find out why it's
leaking.
Dennis
Moore
93 Stealth ES
- ----- Original Message -----
From: "Dr. John
A. Tabler" <jtabler@summitmicro.com>
To:
"team3s stealth-3000gt" <team3s@stealth-3000gt.st>
Sent:
Sunday, April 14, 2002 8:38 PM
Subject: Team3S: mystery warning
light
Hi All,
I have misplaced my owner's manual, and need a little
information.
(1992 3000 GT VR4)
What is the warning light on the
extreme right of the gauge cluster,
third from the top, next to the
speedometer (sort of "between" 165 and
170 mph) that looks like a little
orange almost empty fluid tank?
Is this indicating low engine
coolant?
Thanks,
John
*** Info: http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Sun, 14 Apr 2002 19:07:05
-0700 (PDT)
From: menalteed <menalteed@yahoo.com>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: mystery warning light
It is the window washer fluid level, I
remember I also
had some thoughts the first time it came on, it looks
like
it should be the radiator, but on my 92 the
radiator light is lower near the
bottom of the gauges.
peter 92 Stealth
*** Info: http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Sun, 14 Apr 2002 19:17:37
-0700 (PDT)
From: Geoff Mohler <gemohler@www.speedtoys.com>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: advantages
Nope.
Best sticking RWD car ive been
in. And its independant rear..no solid
axle.
Torsen LSD is
nice.
Ive not once gotten the rear end out, and ive tried.
16x8s
up front with 245s, and 17x10s in the rear with 275s...the other rx7
paople
get a laugh out of it, until they go for a ride.
The RX7s are very
thin at the events..sadly enough.
On Sun, 14 Apr 2002, merritt@cedar-rapids.net
wrote:
> At 05:06 PM 4/14/02 -0700, Geoff Mohler wrote:
>
>> Isn't your RX7 an all-out racer?
> >---
> >Thats what
I use it for, but it has an amazing $150 invested in mods..a
> >used
cat-back and a used intake.
>
> Aha! Now I remember: You have a
twin-turbo RX7.
>
> Yep, those turbo RX7 cars are pretty dang
fast. I have never encountered one in my run groups, so I can't compare. They
are more rare than VR4s at open track events. They have plenty of horsepower,
but I hear they are hard to drive fast with their RWD. Solid axle, right?
>
> Rich
- ---
Geoff Mohler
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Sun, 14 Apr 2002 19:36:00
-0700
From: "MThompson" <mathompson@cox.net>
Subject: RE:
Team3S: mystery warning light
John,
Once you fill up the
windshield washer tank and the light still comes on,
fill up the rear washer
tank. This one stumped me for a few days. I will
not say how
many. :)
M
- -----Original Message-----
From: owner-team3s@team3s.com
[mailto:owner-team3s@team3s.com]On Behalf Of
Dr. John A. Tabler
Sent:
Sunday, April 14, 2002 5:39 PM
To: team3s stealth-3000gt
Subject: Team3S:
mystery warning light
Hi All,
I have misplaced my owner's manual, and
need a little information.
(1992 3000 GT VR4)
What is the warning
light on the extreme right of the gauge cluster,
third from the top, next to
the speedometer (sort of "between" 165 and
170 mph) that looks like a little
orange almost empty fluid tank?
Is this indicating low engine
coolant?
Thanks,
John
*** Info: http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Sun, 14 Apr 2002 20:05:20
-0700
From: "fastmax" <fastmax@cox.net>
Subject: Re: Team3S:
Gingerman Raceway report - double clutching
Double clutching saves wear
and tear on the syncros and the rev
matching portion of the shift helps keep
the car stable when entering
a corner ---- smooth entry equal higher
speeds.
I use double clutching on the street for practice and to save
the
synchros. At the track I could probably do without it and not see
any
big difference in my lap times but it would still help the synchros. The
reason for that is that I'm not driving close enough to the limit of the
car to make a difference [ I am driving at the limit of the driver a lot
].
Jim
Berry
===================================================
- -----
Original Message -----
From: "Oskar Persson" <osk@attbi.com>
> Great to hear that
you had a good time Philip. I just have one question.
> Why do you
recommend double clutching? How does that make you any faster?
> I
don't see the point of double clutching since all gears in our
>
transmissions have synchros.
>
> Oskar
> '95 R/T TT
>
also hooked on open tracking
*** Info: http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Sun, 14 Apr 2002 20:17:28
-0700
From: "fastmax" <fastmax@cox.net>
Subject: Re: Team3S:
Gingerman Raceway report - first impressions
FWIW --- I installed a shift
light on the column to remind me when
to shift in the heat of battle. I have
it set for 6k to save wear and
tear on the engine but I can run it to redline
if need be.
Jim
Berry
==============================================
- ----- Original
Message -----
From: "Philip V. Glazatov" <gphilip@umich.edu>
> Hi
Team!
>
> I am back from the Gingerman Raceway
> The
stock exhaust is too quiet for racing. I hit the rev limiter three
>
times when passing other cars. Maybe I should just move the rev limiter.
;-)
>
*** Info: http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Sun, 14 Apr 2002 23:45:12
-0400
From: "Philip V. Glazatov" <gphilip@umich.edu>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: Gingerman Raceway report - double clutching
Some guys are lucky
that they have good fresh transmissions and they never
even feel a need to
double clutch while downshifting. My transmission is
not to bad either, but
I often get grr-grr-grr-rrrrr when I approach a turn
at high speed and try
to downshift at the same time and I cannot jam it
into gear. Usually it is
the second gear that gives me that problem. But on
a track you have to be in
gear before the turn, otherwise there is a risk
of losing control trying to
roll through it in neutral or on the brakes. So
I have to double clutch just
to be safe.
The synchros on our cars are also underdesigned. It is a good
idea to be as
easy on them as possible. Double clutching matches the speeds
of the
transmission input shaft and the gear that you want to use, therefore
making the job of the synchros much easier.
Philip
At 11:05 PM
4/14/2002, fastmax wrote:
>Double clutching saves wear and tear on the
syncros and the rev
>matching portion of the shift helps keep the car
stable when entering
>a corner ---- smooth entry equal higher
speeds.
>
>I use double clutching on the street for practice and to
save the
>synchros. At the track I could probably do without it and not
see any
>big difference in my lap times but it would still help the
synchros. The
>reason for that is that I'm not driving close enough to the
limit of the
>car to make a difference [ I am driving at the limit of the
driver a lot ].
>
>
Jim Berry
*** Info: http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Sun, 14 Apr 2002 20:57:57
-0700
From: "fastmax" <fastmax@cox.net>
Subject: Re: Team3S:
Replacing Crankshaft
Take a look at the archives for the last couple of
months --- I wrote several
messages about my crankshaft ordeal. Were I you,
and was buying a
replacement I'd be sure to get the forged
crank.
Jim
Berry
================================================
- ----- Original
Message -----
From: <JayBobski@aol.com>
To: <Team3S@stealth-3000gt.st>
Sent:
Sunday, April 14, 2002 11:49 AM
Subject: Team3S: Replacing
Crankshaft
> I am replacing my crankshaft on my 91
VR4 and am looking for advice on
> bearings and tolerances etc. what to
look for etc.
>
> Thanks,
>
> John
Janicek
*** Info: http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Sun, 14 Apr 2002 23:17:10
-0500
From: "William Jeffrey Crabtree" <wjcrabtree@earthlink.net>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Replacing Crankshaft
John et al,
Call ANGELO at Mike's
automotive. He's doing the machine work on my motor
for me and seems to
know what he's talking about.
- -Jeff Crabtree
'91
R/T TT(3SI#0499)
2K Wrangler TJ
Sport
St.
Louis, MO
> I am replacing my crankshaft on my 91
VR4 and am looking for advice on
> bearings and tolerances etc. what to
look for etc.
>
> Thanks,
>
> John
Janicek
*** Info: http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 15 Apr 2002 04:20:25
+0000
From: apedenko@attbi.com
Subject: RE: Team3S:
mystery warning light
Easy way to tell (aside from filling up the tanks)
-
the windshield fluid light doesn't come on along with
all the other
lights when you first turn the ignition
on. The radiator light does. It is
also in the lower-
most right hand corner of the instrument
cluster.
Alex.
'95 Vr4 with experience in both lights.
>
John,
>
> Once you fill up the windshield washer tank and the light
still comes on,
> fill up the rear washer tank. This one stumped me
for a few days. I will
> not say how many. :)
>
>
M
*** Info: http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Sun, 14 Apr 2002 23:21:55
-0500
From: "William Jeffrey Crabtree" <wjcrabtree@earthlink.net>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Replacing Crankshaft
OOPS...I'm still getting used to outlook
guys....sorry. I used to use
netscape
The URL for Mike's
automotive is www.stlouisengines.com
- -Jeff
Crabtree
'91 R/T
TT(3SI#0499)
2K Wrangler TJ
Sport
St.
Louis, MO
I am replacing my crankshaft on my 91 VR4 and am looking
for advice on
> bearings and tolerances etc. what to look for
etc.
>
> Thanks,
>
> John Janicek
***
Info: http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 15 Apr 2002 05:17:12
+0000
From: apedenko@attbi.com
Subject: Team3S:
Somewhat OT: Wiring issues
Okay this is somewhat off topic, so please
responses
off list
I'm making an RCA (A/V) input selector for the car
(doing a little a/v setup up front)
I have two inputs (3 signals each
- L/R/V) and one
output and I need to switch between the two. I've used
PC relays to do the switching. BUT - here's the but i
know that relays
have two nasty properties - 1 they
have an electro magnet inside, so they
could introduce
noise to the analog signal. And two - when the relays
flip, there are current spikes in the data lines, large
enough to fry
sensetive electronics. Now I know that to
prevent those spikes from being
too dangerous, I need
to hook up a capacitor between the signal ground and
the signal inputs. What i don't know is the size of the
cap. If the cap
i put in is too large, it will also
introduce noise into the system. If it's
too small, it
won't divert enough current to prevent problems. I
believe
that the current in an unamplified rca line is
around 1/2A AC. I know
there's a formula somewhere out
there that lets you figure this out, I just
don't know
what it is.
Also - do i need to separate the signal
ground from the
power ground?
One more question - does anyone have a
pinout for the
stock head unit connector? I need to hijack it and
don't
want to spend all day figuring out what's what.
Thanks,
Alex.
'95 VR4
*** Info: http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 15 Apr 2002 05:46:28
+0000
From: apedenko@attbi.com
Subject: Team3S:
Stock lighting control system
Okay - I was flipping through Jeff Lucius'
site and
stubmled onto the rewiring guide that says how to
rewire the
headlights to use relays to turn them on and
off. Now, this is obviously
only applicable if our
system doesn't already do that. Does anybody know?
Would we benefit from this?
I'm also considering doing a true HID
conversion. Where
do i start?
Here's the link (taken from Jeff's site
-
www.stealth316.com)
http://lighting.mbz.org/tech/how_to/relays/
Thanks,
Alex
'95 Vr4
*** Info: http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 15 Apr 2002 08:47:44
-0600
From: "Floyd, Jim" <Jim_Floyd@maxtor.com>
Subject: RE:
Team3S: Gingerman Raceway report - first impressions
Jim,
Whose
shift light did you install ?
- -----Original Message-----
From:
fastmax [mailto:fastmax@cox.net]
Sent: Sunday, April 14, 2002 9:17 PM
To:
team3s@team3s.com; a23Si@yahoogroups.com; Philip V.
Glazatov
Cc: awh5@dcx.com
Subject: Re:
Team3S: Gingerman Raceway report - first impressions
FWIW --- I
installed a shift light on the column to remind me when
to shift in the heat
of battle. I have it set for 6k to save wear and
tear on the engine but I can
run it to redline if need be.
Jim
Berry
*** Info: http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 15 Apr 2002 11:47:41
-0400
From: Jeff.A.Williamson@jci.com
Subject:
Team3S: Strange Engine "Hoot Owl" Sound (Kinda Long)
Sorry, this is gonna
be kinda long, but I've reached a point of extreme
frustration. My car has
been plaguing me with a strange noise for several
months now. I've checked
everything I know to check and don't know what
else to look for. The sound is
like a hoot-owl would make (also sounds like
when you blow air across the top
of a half-empty bottle of beer!), and
occurs within a second or two after
letting off the throttle after seeing
any decrease in vacuum or increase in
boost at all. This is not the
"honking goose" sound that a bad BOV makes. It
is somewhat inconsistent in
that it does it sometimes more than others, or is
sometimes much louder
than others. And I haven't been able to pin the problem
to within any
specific engine or air temperatures. It's also difficult to
pinpoint the
location of the sound, although it does sound as if it may be
coming from
the rear turbo area, as I can only hear it when the car is being
driven and
the engine is under some load. And just for reference, the sound
started a
few months after I installed the ARC2 fuel controller with the new
MAS and
big K&N, and 357 turbos. At that time, I also installed a new
intake plenum
gasket.
I've also noticed that the BOV does not blow as
loud as it once did. It's
as though this unspent boost pressure is blowing
off through some other
means than the BOV. Someone suggested that it may be
one of the check
valves in either the Brake or Clutch booster hoses, which
would allow air
to push against the rubber diaphragm in the booster, and
would probably
make a sound similar to what I am hearing. But I've checked
both of these
valves, as well as the purge control valve, the PCV valve, the
EGR valve,
and replaced most of the vacuum hoses with silicon hose. I
removed,
checked, and re-installed the throttle-body and intake plenum
gaskets. I've
also replaced the old HKS SBOV with a stock BOV, and then a new
HKS SSBOV,
and the hoot-owl was still there with all of them, so I don't
believe it
has anything to do with whether my BOV is venting to atmosphere or
not.
At one point, I thought the problem was fixed when I removed
and
re-installed the turbo intake hose, but the sound later returned.
I've
checked every hose I could see for cracks or loose connections. I made
a
pressure test adapter per J.Lucias's website and pressurised the
whole
intake/intercooler system with an air compressor. I fixed any leaks I
found
(all very minor and only at 18+psi), but the problem persists. On
the
road, the turbos seem to hold boost as well as they always have, but
again,
the blow-off sound is very wimpy. And on the dyno, my car was not
making as
much horsepower as others with similar mods.
Additionally,
I've had to increase the fuel enrichment settings on my fuel
controller to
keep from running too lean, and my fuel mileage has dropped
significantly. I
also have trouble maintaining consistent settings on the
fuel controller, as
the O2 readings with optimal settings seem to fluctuate
from day to day. And
more recently, I've noticed a slight backfiring
(popping) of the exhaust
during decelleration while in gear.
It's almost as though the intake is
sucking air that is bypassing the MAS,
and blowing air out of this same place
after letting off the throttle. It
sounds like I may have answered my own
question, but I just can't find
where the problem may be. I'm stumped. Any
suggestions? Is there something
I've overlooked? Could it possibly be
something in the rear turbo itself?
Has anyone else ever had the "hoot-owl"
before?
Jeff W.
'92VR4
Belleville, MI
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 15 Apr 2002 11:00:29
-0500
From: "Willis, Charles E." <cewillis@TexasChildrensHospital.org>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: Strange Engine "Hoot Owl" Sound (Kinda Long)
FAQ - doesn't
hurt anything and disappears if you install the DSM (eclipse)
BOV available
from Boschur
http://www.buschurracing.com/buschur/BRwebsite.nsf/Catalog?OpenFrameSet
[Willis,
Charles E.] BTW, I have a wav file of the sound if you
would like
it!
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Jeff.A.Williamson@jci.com
[SMTP:Jeff.A.Williamson@jci.com]
> Sent: Monday, April 15, 2002 10:48
AM
> To: team3S@stealth-3000gt.st
>
Subject: Team3S: Strange Engine "Hoot Owl" Sound (Kinda Long)
>
>
Has anyone else ever had the "hoot-owl" before?
>
> Jeff W.
>
'92VR4
> Belleville, MI
*** Info: http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 15 Apr 2002 12:39:04
-0400
From: "Alan Sheffield" <a92rttt@hotmail.com>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: Strange Engine "Hoot Owl" Sound (Kinda Long)
Your reply would
make more sense had Jeff not said " This is not the
"honking goose" sound
that a bad BOV makes". Jeff is already running with a
after market
BOV.
Read, then answer.
Alan
- ----- Original Message
-----
From: "Willis, Charles E." <cewillis@TexasChildrensHospital.org>
>
FAQ - doesn't hurt anything and disappears if you install the
DSM
(eclipse)
> BOV available from Boschur
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 15 Apr 2002 12:46:24
-0400
From: "Furman, Russell" <RFurman2@MassMutual.com>
Subject:
Team3S: Wheels Kinda OT
Was surfing the net here at
work and cam across CF wheels with aluminum
centers?!?!?!?
Figured
some of the racers would find this interesting and some the tech
guys could
chew on this for a while and then spit out why they wouldn't
work
etc..... ;)
http://www.azev.com click on the English
tab (unless you speak German)
then click on the what's new tab and CF wheel
link
Russ F
CT
*** Info: http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 15 Apr 2002 11:51:08
-0500
From: "Willis, Charles E." <cewillis@TexasChildrensHospital.org>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: Wheels Kinda OT
http://www.azev.com/listen_eint_alle/mitsubishi3000gt.htm
>
-----Original Message-----
> From: Furman, Russell
[SMTP:RFurman2@MassMutual.com]
> Sent: Monday, April 15, 2002 11:46
AM
> To: 'Team 3S'
> Subject: Team3S: Wheels Kinda
OT
>
>
> Figured some of the racers would find this
interesting and some the tech
> guys could chew on this for a while and
then spit out why they wouldn't
> work
> etc.....
;)
*** Info: http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 15 Apr 2002 12:54:30
-0400
From: "Furman, Russell" <RFurman2@MassMutual.com>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: Wheels Kinda OT
That's great Chuck.... one
problem I don't read/speak/understand a lick of
German!
Hey Roger or
anyone else can you please translate that mess below......
>
-----Original Message-----
> From: Willis, Charles E.
[SMTP:cewillis@TexasChildrensHospital.org]
> Sent: Monday, April 15, 2002
12:51 PM
> To: Furman, Russell; 'Team 3S'
> Subject: RE: Team3S:
Wheels Kinda OT
>
> http://www.azev.com/listen_eint_alle/mitsubishi3000gt.htm
>
> > -----Original Message-----
> > From: Furman, Russell
[SMTP:RFurman2@MassMutual.com]
> > Sent: Monday, April 15, 2002 11:46
AM
> > To: 'Team 3S'
> > Subject: Team3S:
Wheels Kinda OT
> >
> >
> >
Figured some of the racers would find this interesting and some the tech
>
> guys could chew on this for a while and then spit out why they
wouldn't
> > work
> > etc..... ;)
***
Info: http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 15 Apr 2002 11:55:29
-0500
From: "Willis, Charles E." <cewillis@TexasChildrensHospital.org>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: Strange Engine "Hoot Owl" Sound (Kinda Long)
I really don't
care that he is running an aftermarket BOV. The only success
I've had
eliminating this sound is with the Boschur DSM BOV. It's not
caused by
a "bad BOV", it's caused by adding the K&N filtercharger.
Don't
believe everything you read, then answer.
Chuck
>
-----Original Message-----
> From: Alan Sheffield
[SMTP:a92rttt@hotmail.com]
> Sent: Monday, April 15, 2002 11:39 AM
>
To: team3S@stealth-3000gt.st
>
Subject: Re: Team3S: Strange Engine "Hoot Owl" Sound (Kinda Long)
>
> Your reply would make more sense had Jeff not said " This is not
the
> "honking goose" sound that a bad BOV makes". Jeff is already running
with
> a
> after market BOV.
>
> Read, then
answer.
>
> Alan
*** Info: http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 15 Apr 2002 11:59:21
-0500
From: "Willis, Charles E." <cewillis@TexasChildrensHospital.org>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: Wheels Kinda OT
Was wollen Sie? Egg
in Sein Bier?
I started in the English section and when I did a search to
find our cars,
it threw me into Deutsche Sprache!
I figure they offer
the wheels marked with a check, all look to be 18" with
different widths (8,
8 1/2, etc).
Does that jive with what you see at the link?
Chuck
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Furman, Russell
[SMTP:RFurman2@MassMutual.com]
> Sent: Monday, April 15, 2002 11:55
AM
> To: 'Willis, Charles E.'
> Cc: 'Team 3S'
> Subject: RE:
Team3S: Wheels Kinda OT
>
> That's great
Chuck.... one problem I don't read/speak/understand a lick of
>
German!
>
> Hey Roger or anyone else can you please translate that
mess below......
*** Info: http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 15 Apr 2002 13:02:40
-0400
From: "Furman, Russell" <RFurman2@MassMutual.com>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: Wheels Kinda OT
Yup 18/8.5 and
18/10 all options appear to be 30MM offset, but darn a
10"
wheel that's allot of rubber you need stick on there and then the joys
of
trying to lower the car more than 1"
> -----Original
Message-----
> From: Willis, Charles E.
[SMTP:cewillis@TexasChildrensHospital.org]
> Sent: Monday, April 15, 2002
12:59 PM
> To: Furman, Russell
> Cc: 'Team 3S'
> Subject: RE:
Team3S: Wheels Kinda OT
>
> Was wollen Sie?
Egg in Sein Bier?
>
> I started in the English section and when I
did a search to find our cars,
> it threw me into Deutsche
Sprache!
>
> I figure they offer the wheels marked with a check,
all look to be 18"
> with
> different widths (8, 8 1/2,
etc).
>
> Does that jive with what you see at the link?
>
> Chuck
*** Info: http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 15 Apr 2002 12:06:43
-0500
From: "Willis, Charles E." <cewillis@TexasChildrensHospital.org>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: Wheels Kinda OT
I'm not interested anyhow
unless they have one in 17". 18" tires are just
too expensive and
unusual in the track variety.
Chuck Willis
(corded yet another 17"
AO32R last time)
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Furman,
Russell [SMTP:RFurman2@MassMutual.com]
> Sent: Monday, April 15, 2002
12:03 PM
> To: 'Willis, Charles E.'
> Cc: 'Team 3S'
> Subject:
RE: Team3S: Wheels Kinda OT
>
> Yup 18/8.5 and
18/10 all options appear to be 30MM offset, but darn a
>
10"
> wheel that's allot of rubber you need stick on there and then the
joys of
> trying to lower the car more than 1"
***
Info: http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 15 Apr 2002 10:09:08
-0700
From: Michael Gerhard <gerhard1@llnl.gov>
Subject: Team3S:
Source for Porterfield Brake Pads
I'm wondering if anyone out there has a
good on-line source for Porterfield
brake pads for our cars. I want to have
a few extra sets of front pads for
my trips to the track this year.
Thanks.
Michael A. Gerhard 1991 Mitsubishi 3000GT
VR4 Pearl White
*** Info: http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 15 Apr 2002 18:30:42
+0100
From: "George Shaw" <george.shaw@btinternet.com>
Subject:
Team3S: Up For sale 3000GT UK
I may have my UK spec 3000GT (1995,
leather, moon roof, blue) up for
sale soon. If anyone is interested please
contact me off list.
George Shaw
Mobile: +44 (0) 7740 361
163
Email: george.shaw@ukf.net
***
Info: http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 15 Apr 2002 12:40:01
-0500
From: "Mark Wendlandt" <stealth_tt@hotmail.com>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Source for Porterfield Brake Pads
http://www.porterfield-brakes.com/
When
you call, tell them that you are a member of 3si and you will get a
discount
(20% I believe).
Mark Wendlandt
>From: Michael Gerhard <gerhard1@llnl.gov>
>To: team3S@stealth-3000gt.st
>Subject:
Team3S: Source for Porterfield Brake Pads
>Date: Mon, 15 Apr 2002 10:09:08
-0700
>
>I'm wondering if anyone out there has a good on-line source
for Porterfield
>brake pads for our cars. I want to have a few extra sets
of front pads for
>my trips to the track this year.
Thanks.
>
>Michael A. Gerhard 1991
Mitsubishi 3000GT VR4 Pearl White
*** Info: http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
End of Team3S: 3000GT &
Stealth V1 #812
***************************************