Team3S: 3000GT & Stealth Sunday, April 14
2002 Volume 01 : Number
811
----------------------------------------------------------------------
Date:
Sat, 13 Apr 2002 09:46:26 -0700 (PDT)
From: menalteed <
menalteed@yahoo.com>
Subject:
Team3S: Smoke from front turbo area. Boost guage
This morning I think I
was able to locate where my
smoke was coming from I think. The connection
between
the front catalytic converter and the short pipe that
connects to
the front turbo is the source of the
smoke. I would think if that gasket is
bad then it
would start to smoke right away not before it gets
hot, but it
takes several minutes before smoke starts.
Here is what may be going on and I
ask some of you
mechanics to confirm if this may be the cause.
This
connection of my down pipes was the last thing I did
last night. I
was using antisieze on the nuts but also
got some on the gasket when it
droped, I didn't think
anything about this at the time but the question
is
could the antisieze be causing the smoke or should I
look to the gasket
and connection as the problem. I
also have another question about the boost
gauge in
our cars. The boost guage in mine has a 0 point and
below that it
goes to -7 and above 0 it goes to 14,
well what should the boost read at
idle, mine is
always at the bottom -7. I reved it up to 3k but the
boost
never went above 0. What is normal for the guage
to read.
peter 92 TT
Stealth
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Sat, 13 Apr 2002 13:03:23
-0600
From: "Mike & Cathy" <
micajoco@theofficenet.com>
Subject:
Team3S: turbos
How can you tell if turbos are working correctly? I
checked the intercooler
lines and there is no oil. I don't fell them boost
like they did a couple of
days ago. Motor is smooth but in 4 gear it will
stutter a little at 75mph
under a load. Is there any test i can do on the
turbos?
Mike S 92 rt tt
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Sat, 13 Apr 2002 17:11:01
-0400
From: "Chris" <
cm1994@qx.net>
Subject: RE: Team3S:
turbos
You can hook up an aftermarket boost gauge and see what it
reads. Don't go
by the stock gauge, it is not accurate.
Chris
McFarland
93 Stealth R/T TT
- -----Original Message-----
From:
owner-team3s@team3s.com
[mailto:owner-team3s@team3s.com]On Behalf
Of Mike & Cathy
Sent:
Saturday, April 13, 2002 3:03 PM
To: team3s stealth-3000gt
Subject:
Team3S: turbos
Is there any test i can do on the turbos?
Mike S 92 rt
tt
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Sat, 13 Apr 2002 16:21:54
-0700
From: "dakken" <
dougusmagnus@attbi.com>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Smoke from front turbo area. Boost guage
You should not have
any boost when there is no load on the engine. Your
waste gates stay
open until the car is in gear.
Doug
92 Stealth RT TT
***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Sat, 13 Apr 2002 19:02:57
-0500
From: "Mark Wendlandt" <
stealth_tt@hotmail.com>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Smoke from front turbo area. Boost guage
Somewhat true.
The waste gates are not open and waste gate control has
nothing to do with
being in gear.
Zero boost is normal when revving the car in neutral or
when the clutch is
in. It is as simple as the engine is revving too
fast to allow the turbos
time to build up boost. If you install a
two-step ignition system that will
allow you to lower the "rev limit" to say
5K, even with the car under WOT,
you will be able to build boost even in
neutral. This is what many drag
racers on the list are doing to have
consistent high boost launches.
Mark
Wendlandt
'91RT/TT
>From: "dakken" <
dougusmagnus@attbi.com>
>To:
"tam 3S" <
Team3S@team3s.com>
>Subject: Re:
Team3S: Smoke from front turbo area. Boost guage
>Date: Sat, 13 Apr 2002
16:21:54 -0700
>
>You should not have any boost when there is no
load on the engine. Your
>waste gates stay open until the car is in
gear.
>
>Doug
>92 Stealth RT TT
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Sun, 14 Apr 2002 00:54:37
+0000
From:
apedenko@attbi.comSubject: Re: Team3S:
Smoke from front turbo area. Boost guage
Don't the turbos need load to
spool up? I mean turbo
speed is function of cf/m of exhaust, right? And if
there's no load then the engine doesn't need as much
fuel to rev up to
any given rpm and is therefore not
generating as much exhaust?
What
am i missing here???
Alex.
'95 Vr4
> Somewhat true.
The waste gates are not open and
waste gate control has
> nothing to
do with being in gear.
>
> Zero boost is normal when revving the
car in neutral
or when the clutch is
> in. It is as simple as
the engine is revving too
fast to allow the turbos
> time to build up
boost. If you install a two-step
ignition system that will
>
allow you to lower the "rev limit" to say 5K, even
with the car under WOT,
> you will be able to build boost even in neutral.
This is what
many drag
> racers on the list are doing to have consistent high
boost launches.
>
> Mark Wendlandt
>
'91RT/TT
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Sat, 13 Apr 2002 19:59:29
-0700
From: "Ken Middaugh" <
kmiddaugh@ixpres.com>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: Phoenix, from the ashes
Nice to see you on the list again
Jeff.
I bought my 13G turbos from
http://www.turborepair.com for $1400 with
no
core charge. That is their regular price for new Mitsu 13G's.
Also, there
are group buys on
http://www.3si.org all the time but the 13G price
doesn't
get much lower than $1400. Turborepair also has something
called a 13C so
you might want to ask about them. Also, if your 9B
cores are good, Matt at
http://www.dynamicracing.com will buy
them for $300, which lowers your cost
of upgrading.
Good
luck,
Ken
- ----- Original Message -----
From: "William Jeffrey
Crabtree" <
wjcrabtree@earthlink.net>
To:
"team3s" <
Team3S@stealth-3000gt.st>
Sent:
Friday, April 12, 2002 6:41 AM
Subject: Team3S: Phoenix, from the
ashes
> Hi everyone,
>
> Long time no
post. After three+ years, I'm FINALLY putting my car back
>
together(I've found the money tree!!). I'm just finishing up
rebuilding
my
> getrag with the syncros that Jack T. got way back
when.(thanks John
> Adams!!!!) The motor is going to the
machine shop, maybe this weekend.
> I'll be asking a SH-TPOT of Q's in the
weeks to come, so I hope you guys
> don't mind covering ground that's
already been covered from time to time.
>
> SO, For
now...
>
> My car is NOT going to be a daily driver and have no
intention whatsoever
of
> racing(on any serious level). I'd
like to do something a little better
> than the stock clutch. What's
the best place to buy it? How much
should
I budget?
>
> ALSO
>
> Turbos....rebuild
the 9b's or upgrade to 13g's? I'm on a limited
budget(my
> money
tree only has so many leaves ya know!!), but I've heard that the
13's
>
can be the same $$ as rebuilding the 9's, so if that's true, then I
might
as
> well right? Who should I get them
from?
>
> Thanks in advance
>
> Jeff
Crabtree
> '91 R/T TT (3SI
#0499)
> 2K Wrangler
TJ
>
St. Louis, MO
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Sun, 14 Apr 2002 00:49:35
-0400
From: "Philip V. Glazatov" <
gphilip@umich.edu>
Subject: Team3S:
Gingerman Raceway report - first impressions
Hi Team!
I am back
from the Gingerman Raceway,
http://www.gingermanraceway.com. Road
racing a 3S is a BOMB, a BLAST, better than sex, etc. I have never been to
a race track before, so everything that I am going to say are my first
impressions. If you want to go to the fun stuff right away go to the links
at the bottom.
EXECUTIVE SUMMARY:
1) Open tracking is the
coolest thing since the invention of video games.
2) Brakes are almost
just as important as engine power.
3) AWD is King!
THE
REPORT
Road racing is like a big cool video game. It is just more real.
All-wheel
drive makes it so easy!
I was the fastest car in the
loosely-defined street and street prepared
groups. I like to think this is
true because nobody passed me. A
supercharged Mustang was holding behind for
a while but my friend's stock
Neon on slicks was catching up in tight
turns.
Brakes are almost just as important as engine power. Our brakes
suck!
Brakes on most cars are underdesigned for open tracking, and ours is
not an
exception. When I press on the brake pedal hard I expect the tires to
squeal and the car to stop, but this was rarely happening. Brakes overheat,
brake pads wear out in no time and rotors warp. My rotors are trashed, the
brake pads are gone. Now I understand why you guys spend 1/3 of the time
talking about brakes! Now I can speak you language too.
Always
install new brake pads before going to the race track or take a set
of
spares with you. My brake pads had about 60% of the thickness left
before I
went there. On the way back home the brake pads were scraping the
rotors
with those noisy warning plates. The rotors are warped pretty badly.
We were
sitting in a restaurant after the day of riding and I asked if
anyone was
feeling the table vibrating. The table was not vibrating, but MY
ARMS were
after holding onto that steering wheel all day while braking!
I am not
sure if it is a good idea to buy aftermarket Power-cryo-porter
brake rotors.
Unless you guys convince me that they last forever I think I
will either buy
or turn the rotors at Murray's. They give a 1-year warranty
on them. I will
buy good brake pads though. On second though, if I warped
the stock rotors
on my first track day I will definitely warp them on the
next track day,
unless, of course, I slow down :( What should I do???
The tires
were squealing like crazy. Those Kumho's are nice and they grip
well
(especially on dirt, hehe). But they are very-very noisy at the limit.
When
I was making turns everyone on the track was turning heads - they were
that
noisy! Some people do not like tires that squeal but I do not care, I
will
buy those tires again.
I got black flagged four times. Two times for
squealing tires - the guys
just wanted to make sure I was okay because I was
making one helluva noise
going through most turns - and two times for some
dirt tracking. The
conversation went like: "How are you doing out there?"
"Okay", I respond.
"Having fun?" "Yep", I go again. "Alright then, go!". I
was surprised at
how well my tires were holding on the grass. I was prepared
to keep sliding
once I am on it, but I just slowed down and kept going. I
even flew off the
track with two wheels couple times but that did not slow
me down too much.
I spun out once and flew off the track with my rear
wheels lifting some
dirt. That was on the third lap, before I discovered the
remedy from
spinning out. The remedy is simple - FLOOR IT! The car behaves
like a front
wheel drive one in turns. Braking or letting of the gas or
would make
matters worse. Simply turn the wheel out and step on it. Once I
discovered
that, the fun began! From that point on it was so simple! I was
feeling
sorry for the RWD guys worrying about spinning out and the FWD guys
worrying about the the throw-back once they regain the grip after spinning
out. Keep the gas on and you will be okay.
On the other hand, going
through the turns sideways is not the fastest way.
I was told by Gene
Martindale, a former Team Viper pilot (who rode with me
and later let me
ride with him in his race-prepped Datsun), that the way to
do it is to brake
straight, then let off the brake and pivot, and then
start accelerating. You
should be already accelerating before the middle of
the turn.
I
finally found the balance between the front and the rear tire pressure
but
then it turned out that the front tires were being chewed up very
quickly on
the outer edge. The only way to stop that was to raise the
pressure on all
the wheels but I decided not to do that because the rear
tires were already
losing traction at that high pressure. I was risking to
reduce the total
overall traction. Instead, I am planning on changing the
camber to a more
negative one for the next track event. Lowering the car
should decrease the
camber as well.
I checked the pressures on cold tires today and it is 43
psi in the front
and 40 in the rear.
I found the 3S handling
interesting. I tuned the tire pressures so that I
get a more or less neutral
handling during coasting through the turn. When
exiting the turn on the
power I get understeer. And when I enter the turn
and my wheels are not
straight I get an oversteer and the rear end is
trying to come around on me.
I lowered the tire pressure in the rear and
the braking oversteer was
reduced, but everything other aspect of handling
was also deteriorated. So I
pumped the rear back up. Maybe the way to
change the braking oversteer would
be to install bigger brake calipers or
better brake pads in the front. This
is when I start to feel like
experimenting with the brake force
distribution.
I discovered that if the car starts to understeer under
power and slide out
during the exit from a turn it is sometimes better to
turn the front wheels
a little out instead of in in order to get more grip.
This is because the
lateral reaction force decreases when the tire slip
angle becomes too
large. Turn the wheels out a little to regain the
grip.
Gingerman has more right turns than left turns. My tires lost 80%
of the
thread on the outside edges mostly on the left side tires. The hot
tire
pressure was higher on the left tires by 2-4 psi than on the right
tires.
For some reason the rotors were hotter too on the left side by about
50F. I
am wondering if this is the effect of the ABS or this is just that
when my
car was parked the wind was blowing from the right.
I shot
some videos with a $40-dollar Intel Easy PC Camera installed on the
side of
the car and hooked up to a laptop. I wish it was turned on when I
spun out.
You could hear a lot of wheel squeal and see when I go sideways
in turns. I
have five unedited videos 365M in size total. If anyone wants
to see them
uncut I could email them one at a time.
My AVCR was trying to give me
trouble. I tuned it perfectly in third gear
on the way to the track. It was
set to only 0.8 bar. At the track I noticed
the boost and the duty cycles
were creeping up and boosting all the way to
1.05 bar, I am not sure is
which gear though. I reduced the initial duty
cycles to -10 across the board
and that seemed to have helped a little.
Maybe I should have done that in
all gears except the third? More on the
boost controller in a separate
email.
My rear O2 sensor blinkey light gauge seemed low, but my SAFC was
set at
+10% across the board, so I decided to take my chances.
I
almost ran out of gas on the track. The light was not on yet, but the
fuel
pump was sucking air by the end of two closely positioned tight turns
5 and
6. This is where I spun out at the beginning. By the end of the day I
was
making these turns into a single long sweeper when I would come at them
too
fast. Not the fastest way of doing it but a lot of fun and tire
squeal!
Guys, learn double clutching. I am glad I learned it earlier this
year
because it is critical. Without it I would have been the last car on
the track.
The stock exhaust is too quiet for racing. I hit the rev
limiter three
times when passing other cars. Maybe I should just move the
rev limiter. ;-)
Open tracking is expensive. We got a group discount for
the track. But the
track fee was nothing in comparison to all the other
expenses: a day off of
work, hotel, gas to get there, $3/ga gas at the
track, brake rotors, brake
pads, car maintenance, wear and tear on the tires
and the car. I busted my
PC camera too with a door even before I installed
it on the car. This is
why the focus on videos is not as good. I am glad
nothing on the car broke,
otherwise I would have to take a night job at
McDonald's ;-) But as a
commercial goes, sliding an AWD car through turns -
priceless!
Cool stuff:
INTEL ON THE SIDE (TM):
http://www-personal.umich.edu/~gphilip/Gingerman1.jpghttp://www-personal.umich.edu/~gphilip/Gingerman2.jpghttp://www-personal.umich.edu/~gphilip/Gingerman3.jpghttp://www-personal.umich.edu/~gphilip/Gingerman4.jpghttp://www-personal.umich.edu/~gphilip/Gingerman5.jpghttp://www-personal.umich.edu/~gphilip/Gingerman6.jpgVideos:
Weird
driving early on (23.1 MB):
http://www-personal.umich.edu/~gphilip/Gingerman041202-2-short.AVIA
short part where I go a little sideways (1.9 MB):
http://www-personal.umich.edu/~gphilip/Gingerman041202-2-sideways.AVISome
better driving. I was just trying to impress Gene M. ;-) (26.3 MB)
http://www-personal.umich.edu/~gphilip/Gingerman041202-4-short.AVIPhilip
'95
Red R/T TT
This report was brought to you courtesy of my RadioShack
digital voice
recorder. Without it I would have forgotten half of these
things. They
would have been forever buried in that gray stuff in my head.
http://www.radioshack.com/product.asp?catalog%5Fname=CTLG&category%5Fname=CTLG%5F007%5F015%5F000%5F000&product%5Fid=14%2D1196
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Sun, 14 Apr 2002 00:16:23
-0500
From: "
merritt@cedar-rapids.net" <
merritt@cedar-rapids.net>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Gingerman Raceway report - first
impressions
Philip:
Happy to have you aboard as a road racing
fanatic. Let me offer a few suggestions for your next venture:
1. Fix
your brakes. There are tons of advice in the archives. At the minimum, put in a
set of race pads (Porterfield R4, Hawk Blues or Panther Plus in the front, R4S
in the back) and change your brake fluid to Motul 600. Brakes will last much
longer on track that way. Take the front race pads out when you get home and
save them for the next event.
2. Find an event that has instructors. You
need some professional help to keep from learning bad habits. For example,
I think the reason you are destroying your front tires is your driving style,
and an instructor can help you. The instructor will also show you the proper
method for braking. If Iowa is not too far, there is an event at Midamerica
Motorplex on May 4-5.
3. Stay on the street tires for the time
being. They'll last a lot longer than race tires, and you'll learn just as much
on the street tires as you will on slicks. Maybe more.
4. Turn the
boost back to stock levels. The last thing you need right now is more power.
Rich/slow old poop/94 VR4
>
>I am back from the
Gingerman Raceway,
http://www.gingermanraceway.com. Road
>racing a 3S is a BOMB, a BLAST, better than sex, etc. I have never been
to
>a race track before, so everything that I am going to say are my
first
>impressions.
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Sun, 14 Apr 2002 01:32:47
-0400
From: "Darren Schilberg" <
dschilberg@pobox.com>
Subject: RE:
Team3S: Gingerman Raceway report - first
impressions
Philip,
So glad you liked it.
Whether or not we are for or against it -- it
is always nice to hear someone
get to use the car to its fullest (that
you can) and enjoy it and have fun
all at the same time. You might want
to "sign up" for the "3/S Racers"
list which is not as technical but
gets in to much more drag and road racing
topics. (Directions at
bottom).
Now then. I think
brakes are MORE important than engine power as it
is a bit more important to
slow down before hitting a tire wall than it
is to hit 96 mph instead of 94
mph on the front straight.
Thanks for the techie tips from the
novice. Amazing how people don't
realize how important brakes are until
they run them to nothing in one
day isn't it?
Yes you need
race pads (Porterfield R4 because of the discount or
Carbotech Panther Plus
because I've personally seen them perform well
and a few others that I hear
do good).
Yes you need brake fluid so it does not boil although
your problem
was brake pads but upgrade those suckers and you will boil
fluid. Motul
600 or something similar for higher temps.
And rotors has been a tricky discussion. Cryo-treating DOES make
them
last longer under normal conditions. I personally warped a set
of
Porterfield cryo-treated ones so until I fix that problem I will
get
just some solid ones for next time. Don't forget about brake
cooling
too. BIG improvements when you run at lower temps at the
brakes.
I guess this is a good time for me to advertise my
one-year old
Porsche Big Red brakes, eh? Sounds like you are just the
person for
them. Anyone interested contact me off-list (the few nibbles
I've had
on them have not shown interest).
Thanks for the
positive feedback and looking forward to seeing those
videos. I'll
start the downloading tonight and see if I can produce a
smaller-size file
for the rest of the list.
Note: To subscribe to the "3/S Racers list"
just email
majordomo@speedtoys.com with a body of
'subscribe 3sracers'.
- --Flash!
1995 VR-4 and enthusiastic open track
driver
www.schilberg.com***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Sun, 14 Apr 2002 02:32:45
-0400
From: "Darren Schilberg" <
dschilberg@pobox.com>
Subject: RE:
Team3S: Gingerman Raceway report - first impressions
Thanks
Philip.
And if anyone wants to see a non-audio version and smaller video
file
then watch the links below. These are temporary until I get sound
with
them but in case people wanted a quick and dirty version. We'll
get
these back on Phil's site in about a day or less.
435k, 12
seconds, Windows Media Video
www.speedtoys.com/~dschilberg/cars/events/Gingerman/Gingerman041202-2-sideways.wmv
5.4
Megs, 2:34 minutes, Windows Media Video
www.speedtoys.com/~dschilberg/cars/events/Gingerman/Gingerman041202-2-short.wmv
-
--Flash!
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Sun, 14 Apr 2002 00:16:14
-0700
From: Randal Rowland <
r2sanfran@earthlink.net>
Subject:
Team3S: need motor replacement or will sell
To all on list,
I have
a '92 Stealth TT, Pearl white/blk leather, 104K, Body near
perfect. Timing
belt broke 4/6/02 - (quite a story, on freeway near bad
part of town at
night, etc.), pistons and cylinders warped valves
damaged. Really in
need of motor or will sell. I hate to - I love this
car but the reality
is that I may have to let it go. New replacement is
not reasonable. I
live in San Francisco, auto is now just south of San
Fran in
Serramonte.
Thanks for your help,
Regards, Randy
***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Sun, 14 Apr 2002 03:22:44
-0400
From: "Darren Schilberg" <
dschilberg@pobox.com>
Subject: RE:
Team3S: Gingerman Raceway report - first impressions
Update ... these two
videos below have audio now and did not increase in
size noticeably (make
sure the address is all on the same line and not
split). I am
downloading one of Philip's large un-cut versions and will
resave this in the
morning for those with high-speed connections (should
be about 30-50 Megs in
size as a guess). Then we'll slice it up too but
this is just a quick
pass for those of us anxious for a lap around
Gingerman.
-
--Flash!
- -----Original Message-----
From:
owner-3sracers@speedtoys.com
[mailto:owner-3sracers@speedtoys.com]
On Behalf Of Darren Schilberg
Sent:
Sunday, April 14, 2002 02:33
To:
team3s@team3s.com; 3S-Rracers
Subject:
3S-Racers: RE: Team3S: Gingerman Raceway report -
first
impressions
Thanks Philip.
And if anyone wants to see a
non-audio version and smaller video file
then watch the links below.
These are temporary until I get sound with
them but in case people wanted a
quick and dirty version. We'll get
these back on Phil's site in about a
day or less.
435k, 12 seconds, Windows Media Video
www.speedtoys.com/~dschilberg/cars/events/Gingerman/Gingerman041202-2-sideways.wmv
5.4
Megs, 2:34 minutes, Windows Media Video
www.speedtoys.com/~dschilberg/cars/events/Gingerman/Gingerman041202-2-short.wmv
-
--Flash!
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Sun, 14 Apr 2002 03:49:32
-0400 (EDT)
From: Joseph Spainhour <
spainhou@coastalnet.com>
Subject:
Team3S: Timing belt adjust
Hello all,
I am working on
replacing my old timing belt. Everything seems to be
ok, but once I try to
tighten down the belt, everything but the
crankshaft moves. That is, the top
four shift a position, but the
crankshaft is still on mark.
I have
not pulled the pin on the tensioner yet, and have double
checked the old belt
marks aginst the new one.
Am I right in saying that the timing mark on
the crakshaft is the
dot on the spoke, or is it the little piece of metal
that sticks out.
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Sun, 14 Apr 2002 13:37:56
-0400
From: "Philip V. Glazatov" <
gphilip@umich.edu>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: Gingerman Raceway report - first impressions
Hi 3S Racers and
Team3s!
At 01:16 AM 4/14/2002,
merritt@cedar-rapids.net
wrote:
>Happy to have you aboard as a road racing fanatic.
Thanks.
Glad to be aboard.
>1. Fix your brakes. There are tons of advice in
the archives. At the
>minimum, put in a set of race pads (Porterfield R4,
Hawk Blues or Panther
>Plus in the front, R4S in the back) and change
your brake fluid to Motul
>600. Brakes will last much longer on track
that way. Take the front race
>pads out when you get home and save them
for the next event.
FRONT:
Porterfield R4 <- w discount at
http://www.porterfield-brakes.comHawk
Blues
Carbotech Panther Plus <- seen to perform
well
BACK:
Porterfield R4 w discount <- w discount at
http://www.porterfield-brakes.comWhy
different pads in the front and the rear and what are the best places
to buy
these pads?
>2. Find an event that has instructors. You need some
professional help to
>keep from learning bad habits. For example, I
think the reason you are
>destroying your front tires is your driving
style, and an instructor can
>help you. The instructor will also show you
the proper method for braking.
>If Iowa is not too far, there is an event
at Midamerica Motorplex on May 4-5.
Hey, my driving style changed after I
found the right tire pressure. I got
some driving tips from Gene Martindale
while at Gingerman. Are there any
online resources or books about correct
ways of driving and bad habits?
Midamerica Motorplex on May 4-5. Hmm... I
need to think about this. Who is
going and what's the
fee?
>3. Stay on the street tires for the time being. They'll
last a lot longer
>than race tires, and you'll learn just as much on the
street tires as you
>will on slicks. Maybe more.
Kumho's are the
way to go. At least for now.
>4. Turn the boost back to stock
levels. The last thing you need right now
>is more power.
I can do
that. But then I will have to install those infamous red buttons
on the
steering wheel when I need more power. The AVCR has something called
"scramble boost" that changes the boost level for a specified period of
time and could be activated with one of those
buttons.
Philip
*** Info:
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End of Team3S: 3000GT &
Stealth V1
#811
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