Team3S: 3000GT & Stealth Saturday, April 13
2002 Volume 01 : Number
810
----------------------------------------------------------------------
Date:
Fri, 12 Apr 2002 09:42:07 -0400
From: "Tom Terflinger" <
terflit@hotmail.com>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: Turbochargers.com good or bad?
How dose one go about getting in
on the group buy?
Tom
92 VR4
>From: "Mark Wendlandt" <
stealth_tt@hotmail.com>
>To:
WDB039@erols.com,
Team3S@stealth-3000gt.st>CC:
3sracers@speedtoys.com>Subject:
Re: Team3S: Turbochargers.com good or bad?
>Date: Thu, 11 Apr 2002
20:44:02 -0500
>
>I've got a set of 15Gs from turbochargers.com and
I'm very satisfied with
>them. I bought them through Buscher for
$1750(saved $100 from buying
>direct) a year ago and I've got about 5K on
them. They are MHI 13Gs with
>the compressor wheel upgraded to the
15G. I notice very little increased
>lag over the stock 9Bs. I've
held 20psi to redline. I haven't tried to go
>any higher with my
stock internals.
>
>I say go for it. I'd think twice about the
clipping. It will increase the
>lag and unless you are going all
out, I would recommend against it.
>
>Mark
Wendlandt
>'91RT/TT
>
>
>>From: "WALTER D. BEST"
<
WDBO39@erols.com>
>>There
is a group buy under way now on 3Si.org for new turbos, they
are
>>offering a set 15Gs turbos for $1599 US, (another $110 each
clipped) which
>>is farly inexpensive. As I understand they are
getting the turbos from a
>>place called Turbochargers.com, and I was
wondering if any of you have
>>every
>>had any dealings one
way or the other with this company.
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 12 Apr 2002 08:44:54
-0500
From: "Morice, Francis" <
francis.morice@retek.com>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: Turbochargers.com good or bad?
Tom,
Go to 3si.org and
look at the classified parts for sale and scroll down till
you see the group
buy you are looking for.
Francis
'96 RT/TT
-
-----Original Message-----
From: Tom Terflinger
[mailto:terflit@hotmail.com]
Sent: Friday, April 12, 2002 8:42 AM
To:
Team3S@stealth-3000gt.stSubject:
Re: Team3S: Turbochargers.com good or bad?
How dose one go about getting
in on the group buy?
Tom
92 VR4
>From: "Mark Wendlandt"
<
stealth_tt@hotmail.com>
>To:
WDB039@erols.com,
Team3S@stealth-3000gt.st>CC:
3sracers@speedtoys.com>Subject:
Re: Team3S: Turbochargers.com good or bad?
>Date: Thu, 11 Apr 2002
20:44:02 -0500
>
>I've got a set of 15Gs from turbochargers.com and
I'm very satisfied with
>them. I bought them through Buscher for
$1750(saved $100 from buying
>direct) a year ago and I've got about 5K on
them. They are MHI 13Gs with
>the compressor wheel upgraded to the
15G. I notice very little increased
>lag over the stock 9Bs. I've
held 20psi to redline. I haven't tried to go
>any higher with my
stock internals.
>
>I say go for it. I'd think twice about the
clipping. It will increase the
>lag and unless you are going all
out, I would recommend against it.
>
>Mark
Wendlandt
>'91RT/TT
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 12 Apr 2002 08:09:29
-0700 (PDT)
From: menalteed <
menalteed@yahoo.com>
Subject:
Team3S: Turbo timer wiring
I'm making a attempt to instal my two wire
turbo timer
today and have removed the side carpet on the drivers
side and
the shift boot as the search pages have
indicated. I'm having some trouble
locating the wire
that goes to the E brake, does someone who has done
this
before have a simple way to recognize the e-brake
wire, or know where I
should tap in to it. I have a 92
TT Stealth.
Peter
***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 12 Apr 2002 12:40:00
EDT
From:
DonBrando36@aol.comSubject: Team3S:
snake eyes
Have you guys ever thought about just
removing the fuse from under the
consul that allowes the headlights go up
and down? I did this the other
night. i think it is a lot easier
than cutting the wire on the headlight.
Brandon
93 3000GT n/a
long
island
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 12 Apr 2002 11:51:01
-0500
From: Matt Costanza <
mcostanza@austin.rr.com>
Subject:
Team3S: Best Motoring VCD
This may be a bit off topic but still related
to GT class cars. I travel
to Japan several times a year for business .
Every time I'm in Tokyo,
I've managed to pick up the current and some back
issues of a video
magazine called Best Motoring. The magazine covers live
track runs of
most all of the Japanese turbo cars. In some issues, they are
all racing
together.
You get to see first hand some of the best
Japanese sports cars being
pushed to their limit. Anyone else here into
viewing this video
magazine?
Regards,
- --
Matt
Costanza
Austin, Tx USA
97 3000GT SL
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 12 Apr 2002 11:13:48
-0700
From: "ek2mfg" <
ek2mfg@foxinternet.com>
Subject:
Team3S: interior dye?
I am refinishing my interior from tan to dark grey
or very close to
the stock color...not black. Who makes the good stuff? I
really don't
want to use the NAPA spray.....that stuff is easy to use but
it
flakes off in 6 months
any help would be great
bobk.
Ice
green candy 93 R/T
(silver to gold to fairway green)
***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 12 Apr 2002 14:57:17
-0400
From: "alan92rttt" <
a92rttt@hotmail.com>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: snake eyes
This does work. But, if you ever need your headlights
up for extra light you
have to stop the car, get out, and put the fuse back
in. That would suck on
a rainy night.
And their are option that do not
require cutting wires.
http://mi3si.org/techdata/mysnakes.htmAlan
-
----- Original Message -----
From: <
DonBrando36@aol.com>
>
Have you guys ever thought about just removing the fuse from under the
>
consul that allowes the headlights go up and down? I did this the
other
> night. i think it is a lot easier than cutting the wire on
the headlight.
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 12 Apr 2002 12:15:27
-0700 (PDT)
From: <
stealth202@yahoo.com>
Subject:
Team3S: Turbo Reseal
I am purchasing a stealth this week and am going to
do the 60k maintance.If my turbo has never
been touched and it has had a
turbo timer scince 95 should i need
to reseal the turbos at
80,000?
Kris
92 stealth TT
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 12 Apr 2002 12:17:15
-0700 (PDT)
From: menalteed <
menalteed@yahoo.com>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: Turbo timer wiring
About the shift boot, you asked hoow hard is
it to get
in and out. It just snaps in and out with clips. very
easy. I
found someone who has the process on the inter
net. I do not remember where I
found it but it is a
easy thing to do.
Peter
***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 12 Apr 2002 12:21:50
-0700 (PDT)
From: Geoff Mohler <
gemohler@www.speedtoys.com>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Turbo Reseal
Reseal?
No such
thing.
Replace..yes..and it all depends on the use its had, the oil its
given,
and how often its changed.
On Fri, 12 Apr 2002
stealth202@yahoo.com wrote:
> I
am purchasing a stealth this week and am going to do the 60k maintance.If my
turbo has never
> been touched and it has had a turbo timer scince 95
should i need
> to reseal the turbos at 80,000?
>
> Kris
>
> 92 stealth TT
- ---
Geoff Mohler
***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 12 Apr 2002 15:52:29
-0400
From: "Omar Malik" <
ojm@iname.com>
Subject: RE: Team3S: snake
eyes
That can be done.. but then you have to get out and put it back in
when you
need to pop the lights up at night. I dont care what anyone says,
there is
no way the headlights light up the road properly through the tiny
snake eye
slits. Splicing the wires under the dash gives you the ease of
popping up
the lights from whenever you want with the stock
button.
Omar
92 r/t
- -----Original Message-----
From:
owner-team3s@team3s.com
[mailto:owner-team3s@team3s.com]On Behalf
Of
DonBrando36@aol.comSent: Friday, April
12, 2002 12:40 PM
To:
team3S@stealth-3000gt.stSubject:
Team3S: snake eyes
Have you guys ever thought about
just removing the fuse from under the
consul that allowes the headlights go
up and down? I did this the other
night. i think it is a lot
easier than cutting the wire on the headlight.
Brandon
93 3000GT
n/a
long island
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 12 Apr 2002 16:03:54
-0400
From: Anthony Melillo <
anthonymelillo3@comcast.net>
Subject:
Team3S: advice on painting instrument panel trim
I have to replace the
trim bezel around the instrument panel, due to breaking it installing my indiglo
gauges, and was wondering if
anyone has ever painted this and could you
recommend paint ?
I want to paint it white so it goes better with the
white face indiglo gauges. But am afraid if I used regular spray paint, it
may
crack if I have to remove the bezel again.
Suggestions
?
Thanks all
Anthony Melillo
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 12 Apr 2002 16:22:21
-0700 (PDT)
From: menalteed <
menalteed@yahoo.com>
Subject:
Team3S: Turbo question
I have just started my car after eplacing both
turbos.
the rear turbo is smoking this is after about one
minute of
operation. I shut it off and wonder if that
is normal, has anyone else who
replaced turbos noticed
them smoking during break in or should I maybe
check
the oil flow with cold cranking to find out what is
going on. I
would hate to burn the turbo up before I
get on the
road.
Peter
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 12 Apr 2002 16:37:15
-0700 (PDT)
From: Geoff Mohler <
gemohler@www.speedtoys.com>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Turbo question
Nope..should be 100% smoke free.
Turbos
work..or dont. NO break in, or much else.
On Fri, 12 Apr 2002,
menalteed wrote:
> I have just started my car after eplacing both
turbos.
> the rear turbo is smoking this is after about one
> minute
of operation. I shut it off and wonder if that
> is normal, has anyone
else who replaced turbos noticed
> them smoking during break in or should
I maybe check
> the oil flow with cold cranking to find out what
is
> going on. I would hate to burn the turbo up before I
> get on
the road.
>
> Peter
- ---
Geoff Mohler
***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 12 Apr 2002 18:42:23
-0500
From: "cody" <
overclck@satx.rr.com>
Subject:
Team3S: RE: advice on painting instrument panel trim
Regular spray paint
over a primer coating worked great for me...
http://66.70.233.231/cody_graham.htm-
-Cody
- -----Original Message-----
From: Anthony Melillo
[mailto:anthonymelillo3@comcast.net]
Sent: Friday, April 12, 2002 3:04
PM
To: Team 3S List Submissions
Cc: 3000GT List Submissions
Subject:
advice on painting instrument panel trim
I have to replace the trim bezel
around the instrument panel, due to
breaking it installing my indiglo gauges,
and was wondering if
anyone has ever painted this and could you recommend
paint ?
I want to paint it white so it goes better with the white face
indiglo
gauges. But am afraid if I used regular spray paint, it
may
crack if I have to remove the bezel again.
Suggestions
?
Thanks all
Anthony Melillo
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 12 Apr 2002 18:16:12
-0700
From: Wayne <
whietala@prodigy.net>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: Turbo question
The smoke you are seeing is probably from oil and
such from the install.
Oil dripping onto the manifolds when removing old
turbos, or from dirty
hands touching turbos and manifolds.
It should stop
smoking after about 1/2 hour, if it continues, you have
turbo problems or
leaking lines.
At 04:22 PM 4/12/02 -0700, menalteed wrote:
>I have
just started my car after eplacing both turbos.
>the rear turbo is smoking
this is after about one
>minute of operation. I shut it off and wonder if
that
>is normal, has anyone else who replaced turbos noticed
>them
smoking during break in or should I maybe check
>the oil flow with cold
cranking to find out what is
>going on. I would hate to burn the turbo up
before I
>get on the road.
>
>Peter
***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 12 Apr 2002 18:24:41
-0700 (PDT)
From: Geoff Mohler <
gemohler@www.speedtoys.com>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Turbo question
In my own defense..he didnt say how bad the
smoke was. :^)
Yer right.
On Fri, 12 Apr 2002, Wayne
wrote:
> The smoke you are seeing is probably from oil and such from
the install.
> Oil dripping onto the manifolds when removing old turbos,
or from dirty
> hands touching turbos and manifolds.
> It should
stop smoking after about 1/2 hour, if it continues, you have
> turbo
problems or leaking lines.
>
> At 04:22 PM 4/12/02 -0700, menalteed
wrote:
> >I have just started my car after eplacing both
turbos.
> >the rear turbo is smoking this is after about one
>
>minute of operation. I shut it off and wonder if that
> >is normal,
has anyone else who replaced turbos noticed
> >them smoking during
break in or should I maybe check
> >the oil flow with cold cranking to
find out what is
> >going on. I would hate to burn the turbo up before
I
> >get on the road.
> >
> >Peter
-
---
Geoff Mohler
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 12 Apr 2002 20:17:30
-0700 (PDT)
From: menalteed <
menalteed@yahoo.com>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: Turbo question
The smoke wasn't from the rear turbo, I don't
think.
The fan in front of the radiator was blowing all the
smoke towards
the rear. I re started the car and it
ran fine for about three minutes then
the front turbo
area started to smoke, not the rear, for two minutes
I
thought all was fine but the smoke was there and I'll
wait until morning
to pin it down. The fact that it
took three minutes before it started smoking
must mean
something but I'm tired and need to think about it
overnight. it
could be oil but it seemed to be coming
from the gasket area where the turbo
connects to the
engine manifold. I would think if it was the gasket
was
bad it would smoke right away and not be delayed
three minutes. i also think
if it was the turbo then
the smoke wouldn't seem to be coming from the
exhaust
pipes. In any case it is heat causing something to
smoke and I
hope it isn't the heat of the turbo from
lack of oil because i didn't change
the front oil feed
line. The front turbo wans't that bad to start,
the
reason I changed to 13G's was the rear turbo wen't
out, so I changed
them both. In the morning I will
remove the IC line and spin the turbo wheel
by hand to
make sure it is OK, then re check my torque on the
front gasket
to the manifold and hope it is just oil
burning off after all the work I did
on the engine. I
will also disconect the oil feed line and cold crank
the
car to see if the oil is flowing fine, I think I
can do this by taking out
fuse 12 and that will stop
the spark. I don't know of another method other
then
taking the trunk apart and disconecting the fuel pump.
peter 92
TT Stealth.
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Sat, 13 Apr 2002 00:19:56
-0400
From: "Omar Malik" <
ojm@iname.com>
Subject: RE: Team3S: Turbo
question
Disconnect the crank angle sensor. This will prevent fuel and
spark. It is
located attached to the rear valve cover.. in front of the
throttle body
when looking from the front of the car.. to the right of it
when looking
from the passenger side.. if you already know what i'm talking
about, forget
i said anything.
This is a stab.. but maybe the reason
it's taking time to start smoking is
because it's taking time for the turbos
and manifolds to heat up to the
point where the oil on them would start to
burn.. just a guess.
Omar
92 r/t
- -----Original
Message-----
From:
owner-team3s@team3s.com
[mailto:owner-team3s@team3s.com]On Behalf
Of menalteed
Sent: Friday, April
12, 2002 11:18 PM
To: Geoff Mohler; tam 3S
Subject: Re: Team3S: Turbo
question
The smoke wasn't from the rear turbo, I don't think.
The fan
in front of the radiator was blowing all the
smoke towards the rear. I re
started the car and it
ran fine for about three minutes then the front
turbo
area started to smoke, not the rear, for two minutes I
thought all
was fine but the smoke was there and I'll
wait until morning to pin it down.
The fact that it
took three minutes before it started smoking must
mean
something but I'm tired and need to think about it
overnight. it
could be oil but it seemed to be coming
from the gasket area where the turbo
connects to the
engine manifold. I would think if it was the gasket
was
bad it would smoke right away and not be delayed
three minutes. i also think
if it was the turbo then
the smoke wouldn't seem to be coming from the
exhaust
pipes. In any case it is heat causing something to
smoke and I
hope it isn't the heat of the turbo from
lack of oil because i didn't change
the front oil feed
line. The front turbo wans't that bad to start,
the
reason I changed to 13G's was the rear turbo wen't
out, so I changed
them both. In the morning I will
remove the IC line and spin the turbo wheel
by hand to
make sure it is OK, then re check my torque on the
front gasket
to the manifold and hope it is just oil
burning off after all the work I did
on the engine. I
will also disconect the oil feed line and cold crank
the
car to see if the oil is flowing fine, I think I
can do this by taking out
fuse 12 and that will stop
the spark. I don't know of another method other
then
taking the trunk apart and disconecting the fuel pump.
peter 92
TT Stealth.
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 12 Apr 2002 21:42:04
-0600
From: "Mike & Cathy" <
micajoco@theofficenet.com>
Subject:
Team3S: new motor
Need to know proper way to break in our motors. I have
200 miles on a new
rebuild and still get smoke when letting off in second
gear. My mechanic
said to run up to 4000 or 4500 rpms about 10 to 12 times
and let the motor
slow down under compression to seat the rings. Iam
not to sure I fell
comfortable with doing this. Also when I first got my car
back there was a
big improvement in felt acceleration, now it seams as to be
turbo lag or
maybe Iam just getting use to it.
Mike S 92 rt
tt
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Sat, 13 Apr 2002 11:01:29
-0000
From: "Jeff Lucius" <
jlucius@stealth316.com>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: new motor
Do new cars from the dealership smoke? No.
Smoking from the engine (through the exhaust) is not normal for a new
engine.
I have no great experience in this, but the few new cars I have
owned and the
rebuilt engine in my Stealth TT never smoked - accelerating or
decelerating -
while breaking them in. Suspect rings or valve-related
problems I would guess.
There may also be something PCV
related.
There has been some discussion on 3SI recently regarding proper
ring selection
and proper honing of our alloy steel blocks (nickel alloy).
Improper honing
will prevent the rings from seating properly. Also, while
500 miles is the
standard break-in period, the rings will usually either
seat well or not much
sooner than that.
Break-in tips:
http://www.stealth316.com/2-breakin.htmJeff
Lucius,
http://www.stealth316.com/-
---------- Original Message -------------
Subject: Team3S: new motor
Date:
Fri, 12 Apr 2002 21:42:04 -0600
From: "Mike & Cathy" <
micajoco@theofficenet.com>
To:
"team3s stealth-3000gt" <
team3s@stealth-3000gt.st>
Need
to know proper way to break in our motors. I have 200 miles on a new
rebuild
and still get smoke when letting off in second gear. My mechanic
said to run
up to 4000 or 4500 rpms about 10 to 12 times and let the motor
slow down
under compression to seat the rings. Iam not to sure I fell
comfortable
with doing this. Also when I first got my car back there was a
big
improvement in felt acceleration, now it seams as to be turbo lag or
maybe
Iam just getting use to it.
Mike S 92 rt tt
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Sat, 13 Apr 2002 10:08:36
-0600
From: "Justin Sturgeon" <
justinstur@hotmail.com>
Subject:
Team3S: lost power, runs rough
alright guys, I really need some help on
this one. I have a 91 stealth R/T
NA and two days ago it started
running pretty poorly. It stutters and
lurches badly in low gears and
at low RPM. Once I get to third gear it runs
ok but it still seems to
lack power. there is a noticeable burbling,
sputtering sound coming
from the exhaust. It runs smoothly at idle, but
under load it has
problems. The spark plugs and wires were replaced about a
month ago
with NGK's for both. It occurred to me that there might be a
cylinder
not firing or maybe a problem with the coil pack. I hooked my
timing
light up to each of the plug wires coming off the coil pack, just to
make
sure that spark was traveling through the wires. It is, but it seems
to be somewhat sporadic. The #1 wire has a quick, consistent strobe
flash
from the timing light. the others all have a strobe effect, but
it seems to
be slower, erratic, and even pauses occasionally on some
wires. Has anyone
had problems like this or have any idea what it
might be. it seems to me
that if it was the coil pack, the #4 wire
would behave the same as the #1
but it doesn't. please tell me this
isn't an ECU problem. Its not exhaust
(which was my first thought) and
its not that its not getting spark. it
just seems that the spark is
either mis-timed somehow not combusting
properly. the connections at
the coil and sparkplugs seem to be ok. Has
anyone had problems with
the NGK wires.
thanks for the help. I hate driving my wife's taurus
and need to get my car
running right again soon.
Justin
Sturgeon
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
End of Team3S: 3000GT &
Stealth V1
#810
***************************************