Team3S: 3000GT & Stealth Friday, April 12
2002 Volume 01 : Number
809
----------------------------------------------------------------------
Date:
Thu, 11 Apr 2002 08:37:55 -0500
From: "cody" <
overclck@satx.rr.com>
Subject: RE:
Team3S: No Brakes - Need Help
Yes< Philip... I had to replace my ABS
pump due to a leak from the
casing of it. I replaced it from a
junkyard, and drove it down the
street (.5 miles) using the e-brake so they
could bleed the system for
me. No scan tool needed...
-
-Cody
- -----Original Message-----
From:
owner-team3s@team3s.com
[mailto:owner-team3s@team3s.com] On Behalf
Of Philip V. Glazatov
Sent:
Thursday, April 11, 2002 6:07 AM
To:
team3s@team3s.comSubject: RE: Team3S: No
Brakes - Need Help
Thank you all for the prompt responses. I am going to
check the booster
first. I did not see any brake fluid leaks and the fluid
level was
normal
too. I hope I won't have to miss the track event
tomorrow. rrrr :(
I heard that sometimes it is necessary to cycle the ABS
by using the
factory scan tool to get all the air out. Has anyone heard
about this or
done this? Has anyone had their break system completely dry
and then
bled
it successfully without the help of the scan
tool?
Philip
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 11 Apr 2002 08:48:48
-0500
From: "Willis, Charles E." <
cewillis@TexasChildrensHospital.org>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: No Brakes - Need Help
Check the vacuum hose on the brake
booster to see if it is crimped or
leaking.
Read all the other
advice. If none of this helps, sounds like you are
looking at
rebuilding the master cylinder. Hard to imagine all four
calipers
crapping out at the same time.
Chuck Willis
> -----Original
Message-----
> From: Philip V. Glazatov [SMTP:gphilip@umich.edu]
>
Sent: Wednesday, April 10, 2002 11:58 PM
> To:
team3s@team3s.com> Subject: Team3S:
No Brakes - Need Help
>
> Hi Team,
>
> There is
probably nobody on the internet who knows brakes better than
> Team3S.
Here is my question:
>
> My brakes suck. I am going racing on
Friday and I the brakes are
> completely
> no good even for daily
driving. I bled them and they suck even worse.
> Could
> it be that
I bled them incorrectly? Or could there be anything in the
> brake
> system that went bad?
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 11 Apr 2002 07:05:56
-0700
From: "fastmax" <
fastmax@cox.net>
Subject: Re: Team3S: No
Brakes - Need Help
Checking the booster is easy --- book sez ---- step on
the brakes with the
car off, you should have a hard pedal. Then start the
car, pedal still pressed,
and as the vacuum booster comes on line the pedal
should move forward
and feel a little
softer.
Jim
Berry
==================================================
- ----- Original
Message -----
From: "Philip V. Glazatov" <
gphilip@umich.edu>
To: <
team3s@team3s.com>
Sent: Thursday,
April 11, 2002 4:06 AM
Subject: RE: Team3S: No Brakes - Need Help
>
Thank you all for the prompt responses. I am going to check the booster
>
first. I did not see any brake fluid leaks and the fluid level was normal
> too. I hope I won't have to miss the track event tomorrow. rrrr
:(
>
> I heard that sometimes it is necessary to cycle the ABS by
using the
> factory scan tool to get all the air out. Has anyone heard
about this or
> done this? Has anyone had their break system completely
dry and then bled
> it successfully without the help of the scan
tool?
>
> Philip
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 11 Apr 2002 07:22:07
-0700
From: "fastmax" <
fastmax@cox.net>
Subject: Re: Team3S:
tranny help please!!!!!
The caps program shows a seal available for the
center differential, you
might also check with Kormex. The only issue is
whether or not you
can get at the seal to remove the old and install the
new.
Jim
berry
=================================================
- ----- Original
Message -----
From: "Infernalist" <
baali@wwnet.net>
To: <
team3s@stealth-3000gt.st>
Sent:
Wednesday, April 10, 2002 11:22 PM
Subject: Team3S: tranny help
please!!!!!
> Greets all, im having a really bad day and need some
advice asap please.
>
> I just installed an rps Max series clutch
and fidanza flywheel, my second
> time on the clutch so it went pretty
smooth. i just (30 minutes ago)
> finished buttoning it up and filled the
tranny, tranny fluid was coming out
> of the back near the transfer case,
i immediately pulled the exhaust and
> transfer case again and noticed it
seems to be coming from the output shaft
> ? is there a seal there i can
replace or something? i assume i need to pull
> the tranny again (sigh)
any help would be GREATLY appreciated.
>
> Ron
>
>
1992 RT/TT
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 11 Apr 2002 09:33:47
-0500
From: "Geisel, Brian" <
Brian.Geisel@COMPAQ.com>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: 1/4 Mile ET
So I ran the 1/4 last night. I ran a
16.0. I thought I missed 2nd 3 times, but then I realized that I left 2nd
gear somewhere around the 330' mark. It was not to be lonely though as 1st
dropped out in the pits. Speaking of "the pits", I got to drive home 110
miles in 3rd-6th gears. 110,000 miles and I beat the crap out of that
car. I guess that's not too bad for beating it for 70some k miles (bought
it at 32). So I'm afraid I can't help ya with a reasonable slip (no pun
intended).
If I get the chance, I'll post all my old slips online, maybe
that will help someone in 60' / ET / trap comparisons.
geis - Still
laughing about it :-D
>From: "Geisel, Brian" <
Brian.Geisel@COMPAQ.com>
>To:
"Tom Terflinger" <
terflit@hotmail.com>, <
Team3S@stealth-3000gt.st>
>Subject:
RE: Team3S: 1/4 Mile ET
>Date: Wed, 10 Apr 2002 14:08:32
-0500
>
>Tom,
> Here's a couple of things. No offense,
but 2.33 60' it terrible! You can
>do way better bud. I
pulled a 1.895 60' with a stock car (+K&N), by
>side-stepping the
clutch at 7 grand or so (might have even been higher -
>rev
limiter).
>
> Soooo, if you bring that down to 1.9, that's .4 off
your 1/4 mi right
>there... usually the rule of thumb is a .1 at the
front is worth .2 on the
>back, so that's more like .8. You should
have no problem running 12's. My
>best time so far is 13.387 w/
1.952 60'. I'm still running stock boost
>pressure (11.5 on '94
VR-4).
>
> For tire pressure - you can lower it if you are getting
too much wheel
>spin, but I'm guessing you're not. Higher pressure
= better speed (i.e.
>higher trap speed), lower pressure = better launch
(if and only if you're
>getting wheel spin). Stock pressure (32/30)
should be fine for you though.
>
> I'm off to the track tonight,
I'll let you know how it turns out. Just
>keep working on that
launch until you can get down to like 1.7 or 1.8 60'
>times. Good
luck man!
>
>geis
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 11 Apr 2002 16:53:48
+0200
From: "Mikael Kenson" <
vr4@bahnhof.se>
Subject: Team3S: Part
dealer?
A few month ago I posted a link to a company that had an online
catalogue with all internal parts for the 6 speed transmission pictured, listed
and priced. Did anyone save that link? I did try to search for it in the
archives but coulden't find it there either.
Please send me the link if
you have it.
Regards,
Mikael Kenson
http://www.3000gt.nu***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 11 Apr 2002 10:05:23
-0500
From: "Willis, Charles E." <
cewillis@TexasChildrensHospital.org>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: No Brakes - Need Help
Cool! I have never heard of
bending the pad backer! Your wife must've
really stood on the brakes!
Once upon a time when I was more
obsessive-compulsive about my car, I removed
and cleaned the brake pads
after/before every track event. I'm going to
add checking the backer plates
for deformation to my list!
Chuck
Willis
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Andrew Woll
[SMTP:awoll1@andrewwoll.com]
> Sent: Thursday, April 11, 2002 9:53
AM
> To: Willis, Charles E.; 'Philip V. Glazatov';
team3s@team3s.com> Subject: Re:
Team3S: No Brakes - Need Help
>
> They found a bend front brake pad
backing
> plate. Changing the pads fixed the problem, but finding the
problem did
> not
> happen until the pads were physically removed
from the car.
>
> The lesson - remove the pads from the car and
look at them
> carefully before replacing the master cyl.
***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 11 Apr 2002 08:15:44
-0700
From: "fastmax" <
fastmax@cox.net>
Subject: Team3S: build
dates
Jeff
We exchanged a couple of emails a year or so ago
about
build dates and 4 bolt vs. 2 bolt. The sticker on my car door
jamb
shows a build date of May 92 which should be a 2 bolt
block but my car has
the 4 bolt mains ----- while messing
around with the CAPS program I
entered my VIN number
instead of just selecting model numbers etc and it
shows a
build date of 92.06.1 or a month later which is the 4 bolt
car.
The moral of the story --- double check build date vs. VIN dates
!!!
Jim Berry
***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 11 Apr 2002 09:42:44
-0600
From: Desert Fox <
bigfoot@simmgene.com>
Subject:
Team3S: New clutch
Well boys and girls, now that I have my new clutch
installed, I must relearn
to drive my car. I mean, I'm taking it kind of easy
here at first but my
G-Tech Pro 0-60 is up at like high 6 sec area. Obviously
I need launching
lessons.
Where is the best 1st to 2nd shift
point? Rev high in 1st and 2nd to get
past 60mph or get it into
3rd?
All I got was a clutch job but it feels as if they put an entire new
tranny
in there. Can't complain about smoother shifting.
So how do I
get faster without burning through my clutch and tranny?
- --
Paul/.
95 black 3000GT VR-4 w/ new clutch as fast as ever but nowhere
near:
98 VFR800F, TBR aluminum hi exit
formerly reasonable and prudent,
now sober and thankful
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 11 Apr 2002 11:45:46
-0400
From: "Tom Terflinger" <
terflit@hotmail.com>
Subject:
Team3S: Shift boot
I appologize as I have seen this posted in the past
but didnt see it in the
FAQ. I am ready to order a real leather shift boot
for a 92 VR4, my stock
one looks like crap. Could someone send me an address
or link to a site
where I could order online?
Thanks,
Tom
92
VR4 (with worn out boot)
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 11 Apr 2002 10:58:16
-0500
From: "Black, Dave (ICT)" <
dblai@allstate.com>
Subject: RE:
Team3S: Shift boot
Tom,
JC Whitney sells them for about $20 -
http://www.jcwhitney.com/John Adams
has some info on his site listing which colors to choose -
http://www.vr4stealth.comDave
95VR4
http://www.daveblack.net-
-----Original Message-----
From: Tom Terflinger
[mailto:terflit@hotmail.com]
Sent: Thursday, April 11, 2002 10:46 AM
To:
Team3S@stealth-3000gt.stSubject:
Team3S: Shift boot
I appologize as I have seen this posted in the past
but didnt see it in the
FAQ. I am ready to order a real leather shift boot
for a 92 VR4, my stock
one looks like crap. Could someone send me an address
or link to a site
where I could order online?
Thanks,
Tom
92
VR4 (with worn out boot)
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 11 Apr 2002 16:37:43
-0000
From: "Jeff Lucius" <
jlucius@stealth316.com>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Part dealer?
This one?
Jeff Lucius,
http://www.stealth316.com/- -----
Original Message -----
From: "Mikael Kenson" <
vr4@bahnhof.se>
To: "Mikael Kenson"
<
vr4@bahnhof.se>; <
Team3S@stealth-3000gt.st>
Sent:
Monday, August 20, 2001 10:59 AM
Subject: Re: Team3S: They sell Getrag spare
parts (??)
They even have pictures of the internals in the gear box.
http://www.parts.com/schematics/images/mechanical/G715140.gif/Mikael
-
----- Original Message -----
From: "Mikael Kenson" <
vr4@bahnhof.se>
To: <
Team3S@stealth-3000gt.st>
Sent:
Thursday, April 11, 2002 8:53 AM
Subject: Team3S: Part dealer?
A few
month ago I posted a link to a company that had an online catalogue with
all
internal parts for the 6 speed transmission pictured, listed and priced.
Did
anyone save that link? I did try to search for it in the archives but
coulden't find it there either.
Please send me the link if you have
it.
Regards,
Mikael Kenson
http://www.3000gt.nu***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 11 Apr 2002 11:27:14
-0700 (PDT)
From: Fred Hamilton <
fred@yonkitime.com>
Subject: Team3S:
Best Alignment in Northern CA?
Hey gang,
I seem to remember
someone mentioning a shop in Northern CA (Mountain
View?) that really knows
our cars and was highly recommended for doing
wheel alignments. Does
anyone recall the name of the shop? I tried
searching the archives but
came up empty-handed...
Also, I'm sick of the way my Spyder frame flexes,
particularly going over
bumps, railroad tracks, etc. - the fexing is putting
a lot of stress on
the delicate roof (you can hear it make sickening noises
when the road is
particularly rough). So I'm thinking about adding some
subframe
connectors for frame stiffening. Any
advice/comments?
The Mustang nut at work recommended I talk to Exact
Motor Sport
("Mitsubishi specialists, but expensive"), and also get quotes
from Tek3
and Speed Image. If anyone has anything to say about these
shops, I'd
appreciate it.
Thanks,
Fred
95 VR-4
Sypder
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 11 Apr 2002 11:32:59
-0700 (PDT)
From: Geoff Mohler <
gemohler@www.speedtoys.com>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Best Alignment in Northern CA?
www.customalignment.comOn Thu,
11 Apr 2002, Fred Hamilton wrote:
> Hey gang,
>
> I seem
to remember someone mentioning a shop in Northern CA (Mountain
> View?)
that really knows our cars and was highly recommended for doing
> wheel
alignments. Does anyone recall the name of the shop? I tried
>
searching the archives but came up empty-handed...
>
> Also, I'm
sick of the way my Spyder frame flexes, particularly going over
> bumps,
railroad tracks, etc. - the fexing is putting a lot of stress on
> the
delicate roof (you can hear it make sickening noises when the road is
>
particularly rough). So I'm thinking about adding some subframe
>
connectors for frame stiffening. Any advice/comments?
>
> The
Mustang nut at work recommended I talk to Exact Motor Sport
> ("Mitsubishi
specialists, but expensive"), and also get quotes from Tek3
> and Speed
Image. If anyone has anything to say about these shops, I'd
>
appreciate it.
>
> Thanks,
> Fred
> 95 VR-4
Sypder
- ---
Geoff Mohler
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 11 Apr 2002 13:32:45
-0500
From: Matt Jannusch <
mjannusch@attbi.com>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: Best Alignment in Northern CA?
Fred Hamilton
wrote:
>Also, I'm sick of the way my Spyder frame flexes, particularly
going over
>bumps, railroad tracks, etc. - the fexing is putting a lot of
stress on
>the delicate roof (you can hear it make sickening noises when
the road is
>particularly rough). So I'm thinking about adding some
subframe
>connectors for frame stiffening. Any
advice/comments?
>
Are you sure it is frame flexing causing the
noise? Check to make sure
the little rubber bumpers by the side
windows are contacting the metal
frame of the top when it closes. Put
some shoe polish or something on
the bumpers and close the top and then open
it. You should have a
circle of shoe polish on each side on the top
frame. If you don't see
the circles, then raise the bumpers until they
contact the top frame.
That'll solve a lot of bad rattles in a lot of
cases. At a minimum it
is something easy to check out.
-
-Matt
'95 3000GT Spyder VR4
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 11 Apr 2002 14:52:48
EDT
From:
JayBobski@aol.comSubject: Team3S: Oil
Pump Problems
I bought a 91 VR4 with 32,000 miles on it around the first
of the year. I
brought it into the dealer for a pre -purchase inspection and
road test and
aside from a few minor problems they thought it was in fine
shape.
About 50 miles later I developed a serious oil leak from the front
seal. I
brought it ot the dealer and they found that the front seal was torn
and that
one of the rotors in the oil pump had fractured. They replaced the
pump .
They had no explanation for the cause when asked about it. It held
for about
1500 miles until my son missed a shift from 3rd to 4th and
accidently
downshifted to 2nd. The oil light came on. I had it towed to the
dealer who
told me the front pulley had come loose and the oil pump had
broken again.
They installed a new pump again (you'd think they would check
out some other
possibilities for the cause) only to restart and find no oil
pressure. I was
told bad bearings were the cause.
They would not stand
behind the original repair because they said someone had
replaced at least
the rod bearings recently. I lost confidence after they
suggested a
shortblock ( or for a few $ more a longblock ) and had it towed
home. I
haven't taken a look at it yet except to see one of the main bearings
( they
gave me 3 boxes of parts from my dissassbled car) galled and grooved.
Looking for any advice suggestions. New crank and bearings?
Thanks,
John Janicek '91 VR4 DOA
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 11 Apr 2002 12:08:36
-0700
From: "tri" <
thn@dexray.com>
Subject: Re: Team3S: Best
Alignment in Northern CA?
don't go to speed image. they're kinda shady
over there. one guy with a dsm
had them do a motorswap. the next week after
he had gotten his car back it
got stolen right out of his driveway. he went
back to speed image with a
different car a week later...as he was walking
thru their garage, he saw a
bunch of his car parts laying around. he lost the
law suit because he
couldn't prove that it was his car parts. i've been to
their garage and it's
not very professional looking.
my 2 cents.
-
----- Original Message -----
From: "Fred Hamilton" <
fred@yonkitime.com>
To: <
team3S@stealth-3000gt.st>
Sent:
Thursday, April 11, 2002 11:27 AM
Subject: Team3S: Best Alignment in Northern
CA?
> Hey gang,
>
> I seem to remember someone mentioning
a shop in Northern CA (Mountain
> View?) that really knows our cars and
was highly recommended for doing
> wheel alignments. Does anyone
recall the name of the shop? I tried
> searching the archives but
came up empty-handed...
>
> Also, I'm sick of the way my Spyder
frame flexes, particularly going over
> bumps, railroad tracks, etc. - the
fexing is putting a lot of stress on
> the delicate roof (you can hear it
make sickening noises when the road is
> particularly rough). So I'm
thinking about adding some subframe
> connectors for frame
stiffening. Any advice/comments?
>
> The Mustang nut at work
recommended I talk to Exact Motor Sport
> ("Mitsubishi specialists, but
expensive"), and also get quotes from Tek3
> and Speed Image. If
anyone has anything to say about these shops, I'd
> appreciate
it.
>
> Thanks,
> Fred
> 95 VR-4 Sypder
***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 11 Apr 2002 13:16:03
-0700 (PDT)
From: Fred Hamilton <
fred@yonkitime.com>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: Best Alignment in Northern CA?
Whoah! Thanks for the
warning!
- -Fred
On Thu, 11 Apr 2002, tri wrote:
> don't
go to speed image. they're kinda shady over there. one guy with a dsm
>
had them do a motorswap. the next week after he had gotten his car back
it
> got stolen right out of his driveway. he went back to speed image
with a
> different car a week later...as he was walking thru their garage,
he saw a
> bunch of his car parts laying around. he lost the law suit
because he
> couldn't prove that it was his car parts. i've been to their
garage and it's
> not very professional looking.
>
> my 2
cents.
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 11 Apr 2002 13:29:21
-0700
From: "Jeff & Debby Kelley" <
spiritliving@canby.com>
Subject:
Team3S: Smoking @ Startup!
Thanks for the input on where to get the air
conditioner.
it turned out that it was only missing the front nut that holds
the clutch
on. Works great now! New Question
93 Stealth w/SOHC with
93,000 miles on it just started smoking on start-up.
Blue smoke, not a lot
then stops.
Is it the wonderful Bad Valve Seals that I heard these cars
suffer from??
Ideas?
Thanks!
Jeff
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 11 Apr 2002 17:13:29
-0400
From: "Zobel, Kurt" <
KURT.ZOBEL@ca.com>
Subject: RE:
Team3S: 1/4 Mile ET
2.20-2.30 is an OK time for me -NA
With good drag
tires and a little better clutch 2.0 might be seen.
Come to think of it
, anyone got a spare super charger for about $500?
I have injectors and AFC
ready to go. Then I could get 1.8s easy.
Kurt
- -----Original
Message-----
From: Geisel, Brian [mailto:Brian.Geisel@COMPAQ.com]
Sent:
Thursday, April 11, 2002 7:34 AM
To: Tom Terflinger;
Team3S@stealth-3000gt.stSubject:
RE: Team3S: 1/4 Mile ET
So I ran the 1/4 last night. I ran a
16.0. I thought I missed 2nd 3 times,
but then I realized that I left
2nd gear somewhere around the 330' mark. It
was not to be lonely though
as 1st dropped out in the pits. Speaking of
"the pits", I got to drive
home 110 miles in 3rd-6th gears. 110,000 miles
and I beat the crap out
of that car. I guess that's not too bad for beating
it for 70some k
miles (bought it at 32). So I'm afraid I can't help ya with
a
reasonable slip (no pun intended).
If I get the chance, I'll post all my
old slips online, maybe that will help
someone in 60' / ET / trap
comparisons.
geis - Still laughing about it :-D
>From: "Geisel,
Brian" <
Brian.Geisel@COMPAQ.com>
>To:
"Tom Terflinger" <
terflit@hotmail.com>, <
Team3S@stealth-3000gt.st>
>Subject:
RE: Team3S: 1/4 Mile ET
>Date: Wed, 10 Apr 2002 14:08:32
-0500
>
>Tom,
> Here's a couple of things. No offense,
but 2.33 60' it terrible!
You can
>do way better bud. I pulled a
1.895 60' with a stock car (+K&N), by
>side-stepping the clutch at 7
grand or so (might have even been higher -
>rev limiter).
>
>
Soooo, if you bring that down to 1.9, that's .4 off your 1/4 mi
right
>there... usually the rule of thumb is a .1 at the front is worth .2 on
the
>back, so that's more like .8. You should have no problem
running 12's. My
>best time so far is 13.387 w/ 1.952 60'.
I'm still running stock boost
>pressure (11.5 on '94
VR-4).
>
> For tire pressure - you can lower it if you are getting
too much
wheel
>spin, but I'm guessing you're not. Higher
pressure = better speed (i.e.
>higher trap speed), lower pressure =
better launch (if and only if you're
>getting wheel spin). Stock
pressure (32/30) should be fine for you though.
>
> I'm off to the
track tonight, I'll let you know how it turns out.
Just
>keep working
on that launch until you can get down to like 1.7 or 1.8 60'
>times. Good luck
man!
>
>geis
>
>-----Original Message-----
>From:
Tom Terflinger [mailto:terflit@hotmail.com]
>Sent: Wednesday, April 10,
2002 2:32 PM
>To:
Team3S@stealth-3000gt.st>Subject:
Team3S: 1/4 Mile ET
>
>
>I went to the track over the weekend
and ran a 13.757 @105mph w/ a 2.33 60'
>time! I am not sure how to launch,
I just read Bob Fontana's launch FAQ and
>I will try that next time.
Anyhow I am pretty sure my VPC and GCC have me
>running way too rich but I
am told better safe than sorry dont go lean. At
>the track I had 94 octane
gas and ocatne boost up to aroung 100 octane.
>Dose
>that make the
car run even richer? Also is it true rich = more power less
>gas mileage,
is there a break point where too rich =less power less gas
>mileage?
Anyhow I made 2 more passes both 13.8's @102 and 103mph. Any
>advice
>is appreciated, I hope to have access by this weekend to a
pocketlogger and
>am getting an air fuel gauge installed as
well.
>
>92 VR4
>Stock 9b turbos
>Stillen DP
>HKS
Super Dragger cat-back
>HKS Duel Mushroom Filters
>Greddy
BOV
>HKS VPC & GCC
>HKS EVC 4 (set @ 1 bar) I notice it only
holds .75 bar unless the car isnt
>working hard, like 5th gear @75 and
floor it holds 1 bar easy.
>18" tires (do these help or hurt at the
track?) should I have higher or
>lower psi at the track?
>Alamo Y
pipe
>
>Thanks for any tips!
>Tom
*** Info:
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***
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 11 Apr 2002 14:20:20
-0700 (PDT)
From: Geoff Mohler <
gemohler@www.speedtoys.com>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Smoking @ Startup!
Replace "tehese cars" with "all old
cars".
It all depends on previous use, abuse, and oil types and how often
it was
changed.
IN the end..its "normal" and nothing these cars have
issues with.
On Thu, 11 Apr 2002, Jeff & Debby Kelley
wrote:
> Thanks for the input on where to get the air
conditioner.
> it turned out that it was only missing the front nut that
holds the clutch
> on. Works great now! New Question
> 93 Stealth
w/SOHC with 93,000 miles on it just started smoking on start-up.
>
Blue smoke, not a lot then stops.
> Is it the wonderful Bad Valve Seals
that I heard these cars suffer from??
> Ideas?
> Thanks!
>
Jeff
- ---
Geoff Mohler
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 11 Apr 2002 17:22:29
-0400
From: Anthony Melillo <
anthonymelillo3@comcast.net>
Subject:
Team3S: how do CAPS part numbers relate to the dealer
I just had to
purchase a couple of parts for my car at the local dealer, and am confused at
how the CAPS part numbers relate to the
dealer part numbers.
The part
numbers on the items themselves and on the dealer invoice do not match the CAPS
numbers. Is this normal ?
The parts are as follows:
Instrument
Panel Bezel: CAPS-81101, Dealer #: MB604610
Fog Light Lens: CAPS-80243,
Dealer #: MR154517
Anthony Melillo
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 11 Apr 2002 17:24:22
-0400
From: Anthony Melillo <
anthonymelillo3@comcast.net>
Subject:
Team3S: where to get O-Ring for rear intercooler pipe
I am looking to
replace the O-Ring that is on the rear intercooler pipe, where it goes into the
rear turbo. The original O-Ring is
a little stretched out and is not
tight on the pipe.
But, when I went to the dealer, he couldn't locate the
part, and couldn't tell me where to get it.
Any suggestions ?
Thanks
Anthony Melillo
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 11 Apr 2002 14:30:57
-0700 (PDT)
From: Geoff Mohler <
gemohler@www.speedtoys.com>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: where to get O-Ring for rear intercooler pipe
??
Try
another dealer.
And..it doesnt go ON the pipe does it..I thought it just
sat down in the
fitting, and that selaed it.
Its been a few years
since ive looked however.
On Thu, 11 Apr 2002, Anthony Melillo
wrote:
> I am looking to replace the O-Ring that is on the rear
intercooler pipe, where it goes into the rear turbo. The original O-Ring
is
> a little stretched out and is not tight on the pipe.
>
>
But, when I went to the dealer, he couldn't locate the part, and couldn't tell
me where to get it.
>
> Any suggestions ? Thanks
>
> Anthony Melillo
- ---
Geoff Mohler
***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 11 Apr 2002 16:35:46
-0500
From: Matt Jannusch <
mjannusch@attbi.com>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: how do CAPS part numbers relate to the dealer
Anthony Melillo
wrote:
>The part numbers on the items themselves and on the dealer
invoice do not match the CAPS numbers. Is this normal ?
>
>The
parts are as follows:
>Instrument Panel Bezel: CAPS-81101, Dealer #:
MB604610
>Fog Light Lens: CAPS-80243, Dealer #: MR154517
>
The
MB/MR numbers are the correct ones. You have to actually add the
parts
in CAPS to your order list by double-clicking on them. The part
numbers you have are the PNC (Part Name Code). MB604610 is the actual
Part Number for 81101. The MB/MR numbers are more specific than the
PNC's.
- -Matt
'95 3000GT Spyder VR4
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 11 Apr 2002 16:41:21
-0500
From: Matt Jannusch <
mjannusch@attbi.com>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: where to get O-Ring for rear intercooler pipe
Geoff Mohler
wrote:
>And..it doesnt go ON the pipe does it..I thought it just sat
down in the
>fitting, and that selaed it.
>
>Its been a few
years since ive looked however.
>
Yeah, it goes on the pipe and not
under it. At least that's how mine
always were from the factory.
There's a ridge on the pipe for the ring.
>>I am looking to replace
the O-Ring that is on the rear intercooler pipe, where it goes into the rear
turbo. The original O-Ring is
>>a little stretched out and is not
tight on the pipe.
>>
>>But, when I went to the dealer, he
couldn't locate the part, and couldn't tell me where to get
it.
>>
MD090788 - O-Ring, Engine Air Intake
Sounds like the
parts guy doesn't understand how the parts program
works. Sad.
In CAPS go to group 15 (Intake stuff), then in the
Turbocharger
subgroup. Once you are in there, Shift-F3 will toggle
thorugh the
additional diagrams. The intercooler pipe ring is in the
5th
subsection along with the driver's side intercooler parts.
- -Matt
'95
3000GT Spyder VR4
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 11 Apr 2002 14:59:54
-0700
From: "Jeff & Debby Kelley" <
spiritliving@canby.com>
Subject:
Team3S: Special Transmission Fluid
What Fluid is best for 93 Stealth
Automatic Transmission?
Thanks!
Jeff
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 11 Apr 2002 15:09:15
-0700 (PDT)
From: Geoff Mohler <
gemohler@www.speedtoys.com>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: where to get O-Ring for rear intercooler pipe
Thanks for the
clarification Matt. :^)
On Thu, 11 Apr 2002, Matt Jannusch
wrote:
> Geoff Mohler wrote:
>
> >And..it doesnt go ON
the pipe does it..I thought it just sat down in the
> >fitting, and
that selaed it.
> >
> >Its been a few years since ive looked
however.
> >
> Yeah, it goes on the pipe and not under it.
At least that's how mine
> always were from the factory. There's a
ridge on the pipe for the ring.
>
> >>I am looking to replace
the O-Ring that is on the rear intercooler pipe, where it goes into the rear
turbo. The original O-Ring is
> >>a little stretched out and
is not tight on the pipe.
> >>
> >>But, when I went to
the dealer, he couldn't locate the part, and couldn't tell me where to get
it.
> >>
> MD090788 - O-Ring, Engine Air Intake
>
> Sounds like the parts guy doesn't understand how the parts program
> works. Sad. In CAPS go to group 15 (Intake stuff), then in
the
> Turbocharger subgroup. Once you are in there, Shift-F3 will
toggle
> thorugh the additional diagrams. The intercooler pipe ring
is in the
> 5th subsection along with the driver's side intercooler
parts.
>
> -Matt
> '95 3000GT Spyder VR4
-
---
Geoff Mohler
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 11 Apr 2002 18:32:04
-0400
From: Anthony Melillo <
anthonymelillo3@comcast.net>
Subject:
Team3S: Intercooler O-Ring found in CAPS
Hey all:
I was looking
around in CAPS and was actually able to locate the O-Ring for the rear
intercooler pipe.
Now I am going to call the dealer tomorrow and order
it. The part is:
PNC-11995
MD090788
O-Ring, Engine Air Intake
36.9
Just in case anyone wanted to know. Thanks all
Anthony
Melillo
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 11 Apr 2002 19:29:19
-0400
From: "Robert Booker" <
nsubooker@earthlink.net>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Special Transmission Fluid
The best and ONLY (Yes, ONLY!!)
safe tranny fluid to use in Chrysler/Mitsu
and Hyundai automatic trannies is
the ATF +3. DO NOT use Dexron, Mercon,
Type-A Type-F, or Anything else. The
ATF +3 has special friction modifiers
which help the clutch packs
"grab" and you will wear out the clutch discs
and cause tranny failure if you
use anything else. I have a 93 and I believe
the refill capacity is around
4.7 quarts when you simply change the fluid,
while the total capacity is
around 7 quarts. When you change the fluid,
there is a drian plug on tha pan,
and also a larger (22 mm I believe) bolt
at the back of the case about where
the differential housing is. Also, make
sure you check the level of the fluid
while the engine is warm and running
with the tranny in neutral. Do not check
it it park, as you may get a false
high reading.
Matt
3/Si
#311
'93 R/T
'00 Intrepid
> What Fluid is best for 93 Stealth
Automatic Transmission?
> Thanks!
> Jeff
***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 11 Apr 2002 16:37:33
-0700 (PDT)
From: Geoff Mohler <
gemohler@www.speedtoys.com>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Special Transmission Fluid
Is that the same as Chrysler
MS7176?
On Thu, 11 Apr 2002, Robert Booker wrote:
> The best
and ONLY (Yes, ONLY!!) safe tranny fluid to use in Chrysler/Mitsu
> and
Hyundai automatic trannies is the ATF +3. DO NOT use Dexron, Mercon,
>
Type-A Type-F, or Anything else. The ATF +3 has special friction
modifiers
> which help the clutch packs "grab" and you will wear out the
clutch discs
> and cause tranny failure if you use anything else. I have a
93 and I believe
> the refill capacity is around 4.7 quarts when you
simply change the fluid,
> while the total capacity is around 7 quarts.
When you change the fluid,
> there is a drian plug on tha pan, and also a
larger (22 mm I believe) bolt
> at the back of the case about where the
differential housing is. Also, make
> sure you check the level of the
fluid while the engine is warm and running
> with the tranny in neutral.
Do not check it it park, as you may get a false
> high reading.
>
> Matt
> 3/Si #311
> '93 R/T
> '00 Intrepid
-
---
Geoff Mohler
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 11 Apr 2002 20:14:40
-0400
From: "WALTER D. BEST" <
WDBO39@erols.com>
Subject: Team3S:
Turbochargers.com good or bad?
There is a group buy under way now on
3Si.org for new turbos, they are
offering a set 15Gs turbos for $1599 US,
(another $110 each clipped) which
is farly inexpensive. As I understand
they are getting the turbos from a
place called Turbochargers.com, and I was
wondering if any of you have every
had any dealings one way or the other with
this company.
Here is their web page
http://www.turbochargers.com/ , these
are new turbos,
there is no core charge, and they say that their Turbos uses
both the larger
compressor wheels and the larger TD04L turbine
wheels.
I am very seriously considering this purchase but before I spend
$1600
dollars I just want to find out what you guys think of this company and
if
any one has had any experence with them.
Thanks a lot
Dave
Best
For polished and powder coated spark plug plates, plenums and valve
covers
check out my web page:
http://web.tmos.org/~afortier/DBest/***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 11 Apr 2002 17:16:57
-0700 (PDT)
From: Geoff Mohler <
gemohler@www.speedtoys.com>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Turbochargers.com good or bad?
Cant say for the company, but
if you can even TRY to afford it, get the
cartridge and turbine housings jet
hot coated.
Save gobs of radiated heat under the hood that way..and the
turbo will
also react quicker.
On Thu, 11 Apr 2002, WALTER D. BEST
wrote:
> There is a group buy under way now on 3Si.org for new turbos,
they are
> offering a set 15Gs turbos for $1599 US, (another $110 each
clipped) which
> is farly inexpensive. As I understand they are
getting the turbos from a
> place called Turbochargers.com, and I was
wondering if any of you have every
> had any dealings one way or the other
with this company.
>
> Here is their web page
http://www.turbochargers.com/ , these
are new turbos,
> there is no core charge, and they say that their Turbos
uses both the larger
> compressor wheels and the larger TD04L turbine
wheels.
>
> I am very seriously considering this purchase but
before I spend $1600
> dollars I just want to find out what you guys think
of this company and if
> any one has had any experence with them.
>
> Thanks a lot
>
> Dave Best
>
> For polished
and powder coated spark plug plates, plenums and valve covers
> check out
my web page:
http://web.tmos.org/~afortier/DBest/-
---
Geoff Mohler
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 11 Apr 2002 21:00:21
-0400
From: "Philip V. Glazatov" <
gphilip@umich.edu>
Subject: RE:
Team3S: No Brakes - Need Help
Well, no time to troubleshoot. After a day
of driving the brakes feel no
worse than before, so I am going to the track.
I will be just braking after
the middle of the straightaway and I should be
okay. I will do some work
there if I have
time.
Philip
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 11 Apr 2002 21:26:44
-0400 (EDT)
From: Philip V Glazatov <
gphilip@umich.edu>
Subject: RE:
Team3S: No Brakes - Need Help
Gingerman, MI. A local bunch of Neon guys
invited me. I have never been to
a track before. Gotta
run.
Philip
On Thu, 11 Apr 2002, Darren Schilberg
wrote:
> Which track? Which group? Have you been on a
track before?
>
> --Flash!
> 1995 VR-4 and road racing
enthusiast (when money is available)
>
www.schilberg.com>
>
-----Original Message-----
> From:
owner-team3s@team3s.com
[mailto:owner-team3s@team3s.com] On Behalf
> Of Philip V. Glazatov
>
Sent: Thursday, April 11, 2002 21:00
> To:
team3s@team3s.com> Subject: RE:
Team3S: No Brakes - Need Help
>
> Well, no time to troubleshoot.
After a day of driving the brakes feel no
>
> worse than before, so
I am going to the track. I will be just braking
> after
> the middle
of the straightaway and I should be okay. I will do some work
>
>
there if I have time.
>
> Philip
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 11 Apr 2002 20:44:02
-0500
From: "Mark Wendlandt" <
stealth_tt@hotmail.com>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Turbochargers.com good or bad?
I've got a set of 15Gs from
turbochargers.com and I'm very satisfied with
them. I bought them
through Buscher for $1750(saved $100 from buying
direct) a year ago and I've
got about 5K on them. They are MHI 13Gs with
the compressor wheel
upgraded to the 15G. I notice very little increased
lag over the stock
9Bs. I've held 20psi to redline. I haven't tried to go
any higher with
my stock internals.
I say go for it. I'd think twice about the
clipping. It will increase the
lag and unless you are going all out, I
would recommend against it.
Mark Wendlandt
'91RT/TT
>From:
"WALTER D. BEST" <
WDBO39@erols.com>
>There is a group
buy under way now on 3Si.org for new turbos, they are
>offering a set 15Gs
turbos for $1599 US, (another $110 each clipped) which
>is farly
inexpensive. As I understand they are getting the turbos from
a
>place called Turbochargers.com, and I was wondering if any of you have
>every
>had any dealings one way or the other with this
company.
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 12 Apr 2002 07:51:29
-0500
From: "Willis, Charles E." <
cewillis@TexasChildrensHospital.org>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: how do CAPS part numbers relate to the dealer
Are you looking
at the CAPS drawing reference numbers instead of the actual
part
number? you have to select the part and go back to the selected
parts
list screen to get the MB or MR#.
> -----Original
Message-----
> From: Anthony Melillo
[SMTP:anthonymelillo3@comcast.net]
> Sent: Thursday, April 11, 2002 4:22
PM
> To: Team 3S List Submissions
> Subject: Team3S: how do CAPS
part numbers relate to the dealer
>
> I just had to purchase a
couple of parts for my car at the local dealer,
> and am confused at how
the CAPS part numbers relate to the
> dealer part numbers.
>
> The part numbers on the items themselves and on the dealer invoice do
not
> match the CAPS numbers. Is this normal ?
>
> The
parts are as follows:
> Instrument Panel Bezel: CAPS-81101, Dealer #:
MB604610
> Fog Light Lens: CAPS-80243, Dealer #: MR154517
>
>
Anthony Melillo
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 12 Apr 2002 08:41:02
-0500
From: "William Jeffrey Crabtree" <
wjcrabtree@earthlink.net>
Subject:
Team3S: Phoenix, from the ashes
Hi everyone,
Long
time no post. After three+ years, I'm FINALLY putting my car
back
together(I've found the money tree!!). I'm just finishing up
rebuilding my
getrag with the syncros that Jack T. got way back when.(thanks
John
Adams!!!!) The motor is going to the machine shop, maybe
this weekend.
I'll be asking a SH-TPOT of Q's in the weeks to come, so I hope
you guys
don't mind covering ground that's already been covered from time to
time.
SO, For now...
My car is NOT going to be a daily driver and
have no intention whatsoever of
racing(on any serious level). I'd
like to do something a little better
than the stock clutch. What's the
best place to buy it? How much should
I
budget?
ALSO
Turbos....rebuild the 9b's or upgrade to
13g's? I'm on a limited budget(my
money tree only has so many leaves ya
know!!), but I've heard that the 13's
can be the same $$ as rebuilding the
9's, so if that's true, then I might as
well right? Who should I get
them from?
Thanks in advance
Jeff Crabtree
'91 R/T
TT (3SI #0499)
2K Wrangler
TJ
St.
Louis, MO
*** Info:
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***
------------------------------
End of Team3S: 3000GT &
Stealth V1
#809
***************************************
