Team3S: 3000GT & Stealth Monday, April 8
2002 Volume 01 : Number
806
----------------------------------------------------------------------
Date:
Mon, 8 Apr 2002 01:44:10 -0400
From: "Morris Nguyen" <
mnguyen@medscape.com>
Subject:
Team3S: Broken downpipe causing other problems? Help needed
please!
93 3000GT A/T
I have a break in my front/downpipe right after
the flex section and b/f the O2 sensors. I
have been driving with
this condition for about
7 months now. The engine ALWAYS stalls when I
press on the gas while it's in reverse.
Besides being really noisy
while driving, it
occasionally makes a "popping" sound like it's
backfiring when I rev the engine in idle. I
have ordered a new
downpipe, finally, but do I
need to replace anything else? Did I
damage
any part of the engine by driving with this
broken pipe for seven
months? B/c the break is
b/f the O2 sensors, have I been running O2
rich? Do I have to replace the O2 sensors?
Thanks for any
help.
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 8 Apr 2002 08:44:06
-0500
From: "Willis, Charles E." <
cewillis@TexasChildrensHospital.org>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: More Brakes
The Stillen Metal Marix pads are a little better
than stock and that's all.
What are you doing with your car? There are
several other more aggressive
pads for our cars that outperform the metal
matrix pads.
Chuck Willis
> -----Original Message-----
>
From:
M3000GTSL84@aol.com
[SMTP:M3000GTSL84@aol.com]
> Sent: Sunday, April 07, 2002 9:00 PM
>
To:
Team3S@stealth-3000gt.st>
Subject: Team3S: More Brakes
>
> the stillin metal matrix pads, and
vented cross drilled rotors. Anybody
> use
> these items and like
them?
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 08 Apr 2002 16:24:26
+0200
From: Roger Gerl <
roger.gerl@bluewin.ch>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Faulty ARM1 or ECU?
Two local Celica GT FOUR and one Nissan
200SX Turbo runned into this
problem after running pure alcohol. After
running 50/50 the problem never
happend again. Also I have read this from
other sources over time. It's
just like running overrich and fouling the
sensors.
Please explain what you mean by "just making stuff up again". My
english is
not perfect at all and I do not understand
everything.
Regarding the ARM1, one might hook up a simple cheap
voltmeter in parallel
so the readout of the LEDs can be checked for proper
values.
Roger
93'3000GT TT
www.rtec.chAt 20:50 07.04.2002 -0500,
Trevor James wrote:
>Roger...do you have any proof that alcohol and N2O
ruins O2 sensors are you
>just making stuff up
again?
>
>Trevor
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 08 Apr 2002 14:30:40
+0000
From:
apedenko@attbi.comSubject: Team3S:
Euro-style tail lights
I rememer someone saying that euro spec 3/s are
required to have amber turn lights in the back. Is that
true? Does
anyone have a pic?
Alex
'95 3Liter Diablo eater
***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 08 Apr 2002 15:06:11
-0000
From: "Jeff Lucius" <
jlucius@stealth316.com>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: cam specs
I have complete cam specs (well not cam profiles)
listed on my web page below.
http://www.stealth316.com/2-headinfo.htmThe
LSA (lobe separation angle) in cam degrees is 108º for 1992 cams.
Exhaust
backpressure could be measured by removing the EGT probe and attaching
a
fitting with maybe 12" or so of metal pipe. A boost pressure gauge hose
could then be attached to the end of that pipe. No, I have not done this.
:)
I think exhaust gas reversion is a given.
Jeff Lucius,
http://www.stealth316.com/- -----
Original Message -----
From: "fastmax" <
fastmax@cox.net>
To: <
team3S@stealth-3000gt.st>
Sent:
Sunday, April 07, 2002 10:25 PM
Subject: Team3S: cam specs
Anybody
have the number for the cam lobe separation on the turbo car.
I see that
Dynamic is selling a 112º cam but I don't know what the stock
number is. How
about a spec sheet on the cam --- since we have an
aftermarket cam there must
be a spec sheet around.
Anybody ever measure the exhaust backpressure at
various boost values.
I thought Mikael Kenson had done it at one time
???
With 33º of static overlap [ anybody know the numbers at .050" ] it
looks
like we could easily get exhaust gas reversion, especially with the
small
turbine housing trying to push 25+
PSI.
Jim
Berry
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 8 Apr 2002 10:32:40
-0500
From: "Trevor James" <
trevor@kscable.com>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: Faulty ARM1 or ECU?
That's a new one to me. I have never heard of
ANYONE ruining O2 sensors
running 100% denatured alcohol. When you spray
denatured in appropriate
amounts your O2 sensor readings do not change AT
ALL. The only way I could
see you possibly ruining the sensors is if it was
tuned to the point that
the car started bucking, stumbling, and "laying down"
from too much alcohol
being injected...then left like that for alot of miles.
Maybe with enough
miles of driving around looking like an idiot in your slow
stumbling car
while incomplete combustion was causing excessive
emmissions...then I might
be able to see the O2's getting fouled due to other
emmissions than the
alcohol itself (incpmplete combustion). Most people are
smart enought to
realize they're "drowning" the engine in alcohol and turn
down the pump or
install a smaller nozzle.
Denatured alcohol is
composed 91-95% Ethyl Alcohol who's molecular formula
is C2H6O. Can you tell
me exactly what part of the alcohol is ruining the
sensors? Is it the carbon?
I doubt the carbon is the problem since most of
it is going to be released in
gaseous form as Carbon Monoxide(CO) or, in
lesser amounts, Methane (CH4) when
the alcohol is burned correctly.
I also seriously doubt that denatured
alcohol is so much worse for your
engine than isoproyl alcohol since
isoproyl's molecular structure (C3H8O)
is so relatively close to ethyl
alcohol (C2H6O).
Trevor
96 R/T TT,
11.82@116.1, 93 Octane & Plain Radials
97
VR-4 w/45k (For Sale!)
94 300ZX TT w/52k
- ----- Original Message
-----
From: "Roger Gerl" <
roger.gerl@bluewin.ch>
To: <
Team3S@stealth-3000gt.st>
Sent:
Monday, April 08, 2002 9:24 AM
Subject: Re: Team3S: Faulty ARM1 or
ECU?
> Two local Celica GT FOUR and one Nissan 200SX Turbo runned into
this
> problem after running pure alcohol. After running 50/50 the problem
never
> happend again. Also I have read this from other sources over time.
It's
> just like running overrich and fouling the sensors.
>
>
Please explain what you mean by "just making stuff up again". My
english
is
> not perfect at all and I do not understand
everything.
>
> Regarding the ARM1, one might hook up a simple cheap
voltmeter in parallel
> so the readout of the LEDs can be checked for
proper values.
>
> Roger
> 93'3000GT TT
>
www.rtec.ch>
> At 20:50 07.04.2002
-0500, Trevor James wrote:
> >Roger...do you have any proof that
alcohol and N2O ruins O2 sensors are
you
> >just making stuff up
again?
> >
> >Trevor
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 08 Apr 2002 17:51:35
+0200
From: Roger Gerl <
roger.gerl@bluewin.ch>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Euro-style tail lights
Yes, see my pages :)
At 14:30
08.04.2002 +0000,
apedenko@attbi.com
wrote:
>I rememer someone saying that euro spec 3/s are
>required to
have amber turn lights in the back. Is that
>true? Does anyone have a
pic?
roger
93'3000GT TT
www.rtec.ch*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 8 Apr 2002 13:21:01
-0400
From: "Mihai Raicu" <
mraicu@wayne.edu>
Subject: Team3S: RE:
[Sorta Long] ECU Upgrade
John,
Since you have a 94 VR4, your
talents will probably be used better if
you made a datalogger for the 94-95
cars which are not quite OBD II
compliant. If you can make something
that will display on a computer
screen in real time all the relevant
parameters the ECU sees, then we
could use the datalogger in conjunction with
other equipment to tune our
cars. That's just a thought...
My brother is a computer programmer, but since he is still in
grad
school, his time is a bit tight. If someone has the
engineering
background and knows the layout of the program he can probably
help.
- -MIHAI-
95 Red VR4
John
94 Pearl Yellow
TT
Date: Sat, 06 Apr 2002 13:57:13 +0800
From: "John Stegall III"
<
jstegall@programmer.net>
Subject:
Team3S: RE: [Sorta Long] ECU Upgrade (Was: anyone ever used a
jetchip ECU
Upgrade)
All right, so I've heard of the G-Force upgrade, and I managed
to find
that one from dynamicracing.com... (I think it was them). Then
I hear
big waste, bad idea. I'm not too interested in a boost
controller and
having to use a datalogger to watch my knock. I didn't
have one with my
Talon TSi, and I've even seen a datalogger - maybe I'm being
a wuss.
But I doubt that I'd be able to actually watch it all the
time,
especially if I'm racing someone.
I'm sure someone else on this
list is probably a programmer or EE, and
perhaps has even though of it, or
perhaps I'm dreaming of something that
for some reason or another is too hard
to do with our cars due to costs,
resources, or proprietary components.
What's everyone think?
John
1994 3000GT VR-4
***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 08 Apr 2002 13:36:22
-0400
From: Joe Kenwabikise <
jdk88888@www.speedtoys.com>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Faulty ARM1 or ECU?
I agree with Trevor... mostly. If
the alcohol wasn't completely burned,
it *might* have an effect on the
O2's.
Also, the other 5-9% of denatured can contain a number of
compounds
including kerosene, nitrobenzene, leaded gasoline, etc. etc.... any
of
which could have adverse affects on the O2's.
Of course many of
the compounds they use are flammable, and in such
small quantities it may not
make a difference...
Joe K
91 RT/TT black
Trevor James
wrote:
>
> That's a new one to me. I have never heard of ANYONE
ruining O2 sensors
> running 100% denatured alcohol. When you spray
denatured in appropriate
> amounts your O2 sensor readings do not change
AT ALL. The only way I could
> see you possibly ruining the sensors is if
it was tuned to the point that
> the car started bucking, stumbling, and
"laying down" from too much alcohol
> being injected...then left like that
for alot of miles. Maybe with enough
> miles of driving around looking
like an idiot in your slow stumbling car
> while incomplete combustion was
causing excessive emmissions...then I might
> be able to see the O2's
getting fouled due to other emmissions than the
> alcohol itself
(incpmplete combustion). Most people are smart enought to
> realize
they're "drowning" the engine in alcohol and turn down the pump or
>
install a smaller nozzle.
>
> Denatured alcohol is composed 91-95%
Ethyl Alcohol who's molecular formula
> is C2H6O. Can you tell me exactly
what part of the alcohol is ruining the
> sensors? Is it the carbon? I
doubt the carbon is the problem since most of
> it is going to be released
in gaseous form as Carbon Monoxide(CO) or, in
> lesser amounts, Methane
(CH4) when the alcohol is burned correctly.
>
> I also seriously
doubt that denatured alcohol is so much worse for your
> engine than
isoproyl alcohol since isoproyl's molecular structure (C3H8O)
> is so
relatively close to ethyl alcohol (C2H6O).
>
> Trevor
> 96
R/T TT,
11.82@116.1, 93 Octane & Plain
Radials
> 97 VR-4 w/45k (For Sale!)
> 94 300ZX TT w/52k
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Roger Gerl" <
roger.gerl@bluewin.ch>
> To:
<
Team3S@stealth-3000gt.st>
>
Sent: Monday, April 08, 2002 9:24 AM
> Subject: Re: Team3S: Faulty ARM1 or
ECU?
>
> > Two local Celica GT FOUR and one Nissan 200SX Turbo
runned into this
> > problem after running pure alcohol. After running
50/50 the problem never
> > happend again. Also I have read this from
other sources over time. It's
> > just like running overrich and
fouling the sensors.
> >
> > Please explain what you mean by
"just making stuff up again". My english
> is
> > not perfect at
all and I do not understand everything.
> >
> > Regarding the
ARM1, one might hook up a simple cheap voltmeter in parallel
> > so the
readout of the LEDs can be checked for proper values.
> >
> >
Roger
> > 93'3000GT TT
> >
www.rtec.ch> >
> > At 20:50
07.04.2002 -0500, Trevor James wrote:
> > >Roger...do you have any
proof that alcohol and N2O ruins O2 sensors are
> you
> >
>just making stuff up again?
> > >
> >
>Trevor
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 8 Apr 2002 13:58:21
EDT
From:
DonBrando36@aol.comSubject: Team3S:
n/a fuel pump relay
i was looking on the 3si.org site and i came across
the fuel pump relay
rewiring. I was looking for it on my n/a 93 3000GT
but i cant find it. Does
anyone know where it is on my
car?
thanks
brandon
93 3000GT n/a
long island
NY
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 08 Apr 2002 11:19:06
-0700
From: Damon Rachell <
damonr@mefas.com>
Subject: Team3S:
sparco brackets...
Hi,
I just bought a torino seat. I've got a
slider coming, but need the
brackets. Anyone ever install a Sparco seat in
their car? If so, did
the sparco provided brackets work? I've
heard that they don't fit and
they're a waste of money. True or
false?
thanks
Damon
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 08 Apr 2002 13:21:03
-0500
From: Matt Jannusch <
mjannusch@attbi.com>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: RE: [Sorta Long] ECU Upgrade
Mihai Raicu wrote:
>Since
you have a 94 VR4, your talents will probably be used better if
>you made
a datalogger for the 94-95 cars which are not quite OBD
II
>compliant. If you can make something that will display on a
computer
>screen in real time all the relevant parameters the ECU sees,
then we
>could use the datalogger in conjunction with other equipment to
tune our
>cars. That's just a thought...
>
What we
really need is a MUT-II scantool to reverse engineer to build a
proper
datalogger that doesn't require ECU modifications. If someone
could
get me a MUT-II to use for a couple weeks I could probably do it
now that I
have lots of free time.
BTW, the LCD gauge project is progressing fairly
well...
- -Matt
'95 3000GT Spyder VR4
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 08 Apr 2002 13:23:29
-0500
From: Matt Jannusch <
mjannusch@attbi.com>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: n/a fuel pump relay
DonBrando36@aol.com wrote:
>i
was looking on the 3si.org site and i came across the fuel pump relay
>rewiring. I was looking for it on my n/a 93 3000GT but i cant find
it. Does
>anyone know where it is on my car?
>
If you are
talking about the little jumper wire mod that makes it run
full voltage to
the pump all the time, that resistor pack is only on
turbo cars. The
naturally aspirated cars don't use a dual-voltage fuel
pump feed.
-
-Matt
'95 3000GT Spyder VR4
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 08 Apr 2002 18:29:09
-0000
From: "Jeff Lucius" <
jlucius@stealth316.com>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: n/a fuel pump relay
Brandon,
It looks like it is time
for you to get a service manual!
"Fuel pump relay 2" and the "fuel pump
resistor" are only found on the turbo
models. The purpose is to reduce
voltage to the fuel pump (reduces pump volume
flow) during idle and when the
MAP (manifold absolute pressure) is below
atmospheric. The Circuit Diagrams
in the Fuel System section or in the MFI
Circuit section of the manuals
explain most of this and much more. I list
sources for manuals on the Links
page at my web and Team3S also lists sources
on the FAQ page.
Enjoy
your car.
Jeff Lucius,
http://www.stealth316.com/-
---------- Original Message -------------
Subject: Team3S: n/a fuel pump
relay
Date: Mon, 8 Apr 2002 13:58:21 EDT
From:
DonBrando36@aol.comTo:
team3S@stealth-3000gt.sti
was looking on the 3si.org site and i came across the fuel pump relay
rewiring. I was looking for it on my n/a 93 3000GT but i cant find
it. Does
anyone know where it is on my car?
thanks
brandon
93 3000GT n/a
long island NY
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 8 Apr 2002 21:14:54
+0200
From: "Roger Gerl" <
roger.gerl@bluewin.ch>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Faulty ARM1 or ECU?
I can't really say what denatured alcohol
is in german. We often use
Methanol (not smellable) or rubbing alcohol (very
much smellable). The O2
sensor where covered yellowish-white. Since running
the mix they stay brown.
I agree that it may depend on what alcohol is used.
I only run with a mix to
prevent the water from freezing in the
winter.
Roger
93'3000GT TT
www.rtec.ch> I agree with Trevor...
mostly. If the alcohol wasn't completely burned,
> it *might* have
an effect on the O2's.
> Also, the other 5-9% of denatured can contain a
number of compounds
> including kerosene, nitrobenzene, leaded gasoline,
etc. etc.... any of
> which could have adverse affects on the
O2's.
> Of course many of the compounds they use are flammable, and in
such
> small quantities it may not make a difference...
***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 8 Apr 2002 15:34:39
-0400
From: "Darren Schilberg" <
dschilberg@pobox.com>
Subject: RE:
Team3S: sparco brackets...
Damon -- I have a Sparco Evo seat in my car
and made a custom-mounting
bracket since I did not need sliders (I am the
only driver of my car).
I heard good reviews though of someone recently
who had the brackets
and/or sliders from Sparco. Perfect fit to stock I
recall.
I have brackets that came with the seat but we made a jig to
attach to
the stock points (also made it a shade lower than what is provided
by
Sparco I think and headroom is important when you add a helmet on
top
and have a power sunroof sucking up headroom space).
I can get
pix, etc. I never did finish a real good install note page of
the race
seat.
- --Flash!
www.schilberg.com- -----Original
Message-----
From: Damon Rachell
Sent: Monday, April 08, 2002
14:19
I just bought a torino seat. I've got a slider coming, but
need the
brackets. Anyone ever install a Sparco seat in their car? If
so, did
the sparco provided brackets work? I've heard that they don't
fit and
they're a waste of money. True or false?
***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 8 Apr 2002 14:51:07
-0500
From: "Willis, Charles E." <
cewillis@TexasChildrensHospital.org>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: Faulty ARM1 or ECU?
> I can't really say what denatured
alcohol is in german.
[Willis, Charles E.] Denatured alcohol is
ethanol with something
added (like methanol) to make it unfit for human
consumption.
> We often use
> Methanol (not smellable)
[Willis,
Charles E.] methanol sometimes dissolves non-metallic
parts like seals
and stuff, but it is a common additive in window washer
fluid to lower it's
freezing point.
> or rubbing alcohol (very much smellable)
[Willis,
Charles E.] rubbing alcohol is isopropanol (not for human
consumption)
plus mostly water.
> The O2 sensor where covered yellowish-white.
Since running the mix they
> stay brown.
> I agree that it may
depend on what alcohol is used. I only run with a mix
> to
> prevent
the water from freezing in the winter.
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 8 Apr 2002 22:28:00
+0200
From: "Mikael Kenson" <
vr4@bahnhof.se>
Subject: Re: Team3S: cam
specs
Jeff,
On your web page you state "Max vol. flow at 8000 RPM,
100% VE each cyl. bank = 210 cfm."
What does that equal in HP?
-
----- Original Message -----
From: "Jeff Lucius" <
jlucius@stealth316.com>
> I
have complete cam specs (well not cam profiles) listed on my web page
below.
>
http://www.stealth316.com/2-headinfo.htm***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 8 Apr 2002 15:42:32
-0500
From: "xwing" <
xwing@wi.rr.com>
Subject: Team3S: Re:
Alcohol and O2 sensor safety
I recall from YEARS back reading that
methanol can poison the O2 sensors,
but ethanol does not. That is why I
avoided some octane boosters that
contain methanol.
So of course it
makes no sense that my new expensive ERL Aquamist MF2 has a
sticker on the
box reading
"Methanol is the only alcolhol that should be used, using up to
50% mixture.
DO NOT USE ANY ETHANOL BASED ALCOHOL'S AS THIS WILL CAUSE PUMP
FAILURE."
(capitals are by THEM not me).
So, the Experts of the World seem
to have differing opinions, and I don't
have a consensus trend to follow as
yet...
Jack T.
- ----- Original Message -----
From: "Roger Gerl"
<
roger.gerl@bluewin.ch>
>
Two local Celica GT FOUR and one Nissan 200SX Turbo runned into this
>
problem after running pure alcohol. After running 50/50 the problem
never
> happend again. Also I have read this from other sources over time.
It's
> just like running overrich and fouling the sensors.
> Please
explain what you mean by "just making stuff up again". My english
is
>
not perfect at all and I do not understand everything.
> Regarding the
ARM1, one might hook up a simple cheap voltmeter in parallel
> so the
readout of the LEDs can be checked for proper values.
> Roger
93'3000GT TT
Trevor James wrote:
> >Roger...do you have any
proof that alcohol and N2O ruins O2 sensors are
you
> >just making
stuff up again?
> >Trevor
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 8 Apr 2002 16:38:16
-0400 (EDT)
From: Joseph Spainhour <
spainhou@coastalnet.com>
Subject:
Team3S: Throttle body gasket
Hello all,
I picked up a
throttle body gasket at a local parts store. The
package claims to be for a
mitsu 90-95 3.0L. The number on it was
MD146883. I can not find this part
listed in cups. Also, the gasket is
made of different material than the one
on the car. The original
appears to be light weight metal. Kind of like
alluminum. The new on
looks more like a regular gasket.
Can anyone
shed some light on this.
Joseph
93 3kGT VR4
***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 8 Apr 2002 16:42:48
-0400
From: "Furman, Russell" <
RFurman2@MassMutual.com>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: Re: Alcohol and O2 sensor safety
This is part of the reason I
am wary of using W/A Injection, how about
propane any thoughts about ill
effects to the cars sensors? For the 50
bucks more over the Aquamist 2s
set up, you can go with the DR propane kit.
> -----Original
Message-----
> From: xwing [SMTP:xwing@wi.rr.com]
> Sent: Monday,
April 08, 2002 4:43 PM
> To:
team3s@stealth-3000gt.st>
Subject: Team3S: Re: Alcohol and O2 sensor safety
>
> I recall from
YEARS back reading that methanol can poison the O2 sensors,
> but ethanol
does not. That is why I avoided some octane boosters that
> contain
methanol.
>
> So of course it makes no sense that my new expensive
ERL Aquamist MF2 has
> a
> sticker on the box reading
>
"Methanol is the only alcolhol that should be used, using up to 50%
>
mixture.
> DO NOT USE ANY ETHANOL BASED ALCOHOL'S AS THIS WILL CAUSE PUMP
FAILURE."
> (capitals are by THEM not me).
> So, the Experts of the
World seem to have differing opinions, and I don't
> have a consensus
trend to follow as yet...
> Jack T.
>
> ----- Original
Message -----
> From: "Roger Gerl" <
roger.gerl@bluewin.ch>
> >
Two local Celica GT FOUR and one Nissan 200SX Turbo runned into this
>
> problem after running pure alcohol. After running 50/50 the problem
>
never
> > happend again. Also I have read this from other sources over
time. It's
> > just like running overrich and fouling the
sensors.
> > Please explain what you mean by "just making stuff up
again". My english
> is
> > not perfect at all and I do not
understand everything.
> > Regarding the ARM1, one might hook up a
simple cheap voltmeter in
> parallel
> > so the readout of the
LEDs can be checked for proper values.
> > Roger 93'3000GT
TT
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 08 Apr 2002 20:46:04
-0000
From: "Jeff Lucius" <
jlucius@stealth316.com>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: cam specs
>> What does that equal in HP?
I don't
know.
The ******mass****** of the air flow determines how much much fuel
can be
burned. And that along with the A/F, efficiencies of the engine, and
other
factors such as timing determine the usable HP.
The cfm (volume
flow) value of the cylinder bank is correct though. :)
"Max vol. flow at
8000 RPM, 100% VE each cyl. bank = 210 cfm."
http://www.stealth316.com/2-headinfo.htmJeff
Lucius,
http://www.stealth316.com/- -----
Original Message -----
From: "Mikael Kenson" <
vr4@bahnhof.se>
To: "Jeff Lucius" <
jlucius@stealth316.com>; <
team3S@stealth-3000gt.st>
Sent:
Monday, April 08, 2002 2:28 PM
Subject: Re: Team3S: cam
specs
Jeff,
On your web page you state "Max vol. flow at 8000 RPM,
100% VE each cyl. bank
= 210 cfm."
What does that equal in HP?
-
----- Original Message -----
From: "Jeff Lucius" <
jlucius@stealth316.com>
> I
have complete cam specs (well not cam profiles) listed on my web page
below.
>
http://www.stealth316.com/2-headinfo.htm***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 8 Apr 2002 17:55:48
-0700
From: "noble" <
nketo@sympatico.ca>
Subject: Team3S:
Re: Evans coolant reply
Here's the message I just received regarding the
use of Evans NPG+ in our
cooling systems:
Thank you for your interst
in Evans, we suggest staying you stay with the
recomended coolant from the
Manufacturer.
- ----- Original Message -----
From: "noble" <
nketo@sympatico.ca>
To: <
ecs@evanscooling.com>; <
RBell@evanscooling.com>
Sent:
Friday, April 05, 2002 10:59 PM
Subject: NPG+ uses
>
Hello,
>
> I own a Mitsu 3000 VR4 twin turbo, and would like to know
if this coolant
> will work my my factory
> cooling system.
>
Bear in mind that I have a 15psi pressure cap, the turbos are
coolant+oil
> cooled, and there are various
> metals/plastics to
flow through.
>
> Specifically, I'd like to know:
>
>
1)If the NPG+ will require any modification to my existing system to
work
> ("Pour in" installation using the
> "hot flush" method should
be good enough?)
> 2)If it is compatible with all metals, plastics, and
seals within my
engine.
> 3)If running 15psi will adversely affect the
performance of the coolant (I
> can hack the factory cap if need
be)
> 4)If the product,(assuming it's installed correctly), has some sort
of
> written *certification* to be as effective as OEM coolant in
protecting
> engine parts.
> 5)Anything else I'll need to complete
this job properly?
>
> Thanks in advance.
> I look forward to
your response.
> Sincerely,
>
> Noble Keto
***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 8 Apr 2002 17:20:40
-0500
From: "xwing" <
xwing@wi.rr.com>
Subject: Team3S: Re:
Evans coolant reply
I went through all the wonderful-sounding tech info
from them, and it sounds
like to work best you really should change to a much
higher-flow waterpump,
as the coefficient of heat TRANSFER is LESS with the
Evans coolant, and so
need more flow to get equivalent RATE of heat
transfer...though ultimate
BOILING POINT is less than water/glycol.
I
passed on it. This is a problem with much easier solutions than...a
weird
new "solution" :)
JT
> Here's the message I just received
regarding the use of Evans NPG+ in our
> cooling systems:
> "Thank
you for your interst in Evans, we suggest staying you stay with the
>
recomended coolant from the Manufacturer."
> From: "noble" <
nketo@sympatico.ca>
> To: <
ecs@evanscooling.com>
> Subject:
NPG+ uses
> > I own Mitsu 3000 VR4 twin turbo, want to know if this
coolant
> > will work in my factory cooling system.
> >
snip--------->>
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 8 Apr 2002 17:57:01
-0500
From: "Trevor James" <
trevor@kscable.com>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: Re: Evans coolant reply
That's really strange. I've talked with
the tech guys at Evans on the phone
about my car and NPG+. They never
recommended not using NPG+. The only thing
they were worried about is that if
the pressure on the zero psi cap is too
high when the thermostat is closed
the water pump will end up pumping all
the NPG+ into the overflow
tank.
I'm looking at the literature that was provided with my NPG+. It
says that
there's no plumbing or pump changes required for the NPG+. NPG+ was
just
recently released and it has a better coeficient of heat transfer and
lower
viscocity than the old NPG that you probably did research on
Jack.
93-95 RX-7's have a substandard cooling system from the factory
that
constantly overheats. Most of the owners have to upgrade their radiator
just
to keep stock heat levels in check. What sold me is that those guys have
had
excellent results with NPG+. After upgrading to NPG+ most FD's
never
overheat...even with a stock cooling system. That alone proves that it
works
really well...not only on the boiling point front but also when it
comes to
heat evacuation under extreme circumstances with stock
components.
I'm still going to try it...I think it might be a big help no
matter how
many of you guys think it's a scam. If it's a waste of cash then
I'll be
sure to tell you guys. It's not like it's THAT expensive or that hard
to put
conventional coolant back in the system.
Trevor
96 R/T TT,
11.82@116.1 on 93 Octane & 93 Octane
97
VR-4 w/45k For Sale!
94 300ZX TT w/52k
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 08 Apr 2002 22:45:39
+0000
From: "Aaron Kealey" <
aaron_kealey@hotmail.com>
Subject:
Team3S: Sniffer Test.
Hey Guys,
I'm dying for a downpipe. Problem
is I live in Toronto, and we have to pass
an emissions test every 2 years to
renew our license. Can I stay legal with
a DP and hollowed pre-cats, on a
stock Cat Converter? Would a high-flow cat
be better at reducing emissions,
or are they basically just to keep smokey
off your back? Anybody have
experience with emission tests?
Keep 'em
spooled,
Aaron
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 8 Apr 2002 15:57:41
-0700
From: "fastmax" <
fastmax@cox.net>
Subject: Re: Team3S:
Re: Evans coolant reply
The following paragraph is from a series of tech
articles at the location shown.
The author says, without elaboration, that
propylene glycol should be pumped
at twice the flow rate of ethelene glycol
mix.
It would have been nice of Evens to say why we shouldn't use their
product.
=======================================================
http://www.grapeaperacing.com/GrapeApeRacing/tech/coolingmods.cfmI'm
sure that you've read or heard somewhere before that water is the best coolant.
This is true as far as being able to absorb heat
for a given flow rate, water
does do that the best. Water also boils at a lower temperature than other
coolants and can develop
steam pockets easier, so it's not the best coolant
in that respect. A water / ethylene glycol mixture will boil at a higher temp
and
resist steam pockets better than plain water, the down fall is that it
has to have a higher flow rate, but that is easy to
accomplish. The 3rd
common (and least common) form of coolant is propylene glycol, which had the
highest boiling point and can run
higher than 250° F (average temperature as
seen on a gauge) without forming steam pockets, but it must flow at more than
twice the
speed of a water / ethylene glycol mixture (which means major
changes to most cooling
systems).
Jim
Berry
==============================================================
-
----- Original Message -----
From: "xwing" <
xwing@wi.rr.com>
To: <
team3s@stealth-3000gt.st>
Sent:
Monday, April 08, 2002 3:20 PM
Subject: Team3S: Re: Evans coolant
reply
> I went through all the wonderful-sounding tech info from them,
and it sounds
> like to work best you really should change to a much
higher-flow waterpump,
> as the coefficient of heat TRANSFER is LESS with
the Evans coolant, and so
> need more flow to get equivalent RATE of heat
transfer...though ultimate
> BOILING POINT is less than
water/glycol.
> I passed on it. This is a problem with much easier
solutions than...a weird
> new "solution" :)
> JT
>
>
> Here's the message I just received regarding the use of Evans NPG+ in
our
> > cooling systems:
> > "Thank you for your interst in
Evans, we suggest staying you stay with the
> > recomended coolant from
the Manufacturer."
>
> > From: "noble" <
nketo@sympatico.ca>
> > To:
<
ecs@evanscooling.com>
>
> Subject: NPG+ uses
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 8 Apr 2002 19:00:13
-0400
From: "Furman, Russell" <
RFurman2@MassMutual.com>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: Re: Evans coolant reply
Why not put a pulley on the pump that
would make it spin twice as fast?
Only negative is a shortened pump life and
we replace them every 60K anyway?
> -----Original Message-----
>
From: fastmax [SMTP:fastmax@cox.net]
> Sent: Monday, April 08, 2002 6:58
PM
> To: xwing;
team3s@stealth-3000gt.st>
Subject: Re: Team3S: Re: Evans coolant reply
>
> The following
paragraph is from a series of tech articles at the location
>
shown.
> The author says, without elaboration, that propylene glycol
should be
> pumped
> at twice the flow rate of ethelene glycol
mix.
>
> It would have been nice of Evens to say why we shouldn't
use their
> product.
>
=======================================================
>
http://www.grapeaperacing.com/GrapeApeRacing/tech/coolingmods.cfm>
> I'm sure that you've read or heard somewhere before that water is the
best
> coolant. This is true as far as being able to absorb heat
>
for a given flow rate, water does do that the best. Water also boils at
a
> lower temperature than other coolants and can develop
> steam
pockets easier, so it's not the best coolant in that respect. A
> water /
ethylene glycol mixture will boil at a higher temp and
> resist steam
pockets better than plain water, the down fall is that it has
> to have a
higher flow rate, but that is easy to
> accomplish. The 3rd common (and
least common) form of coolant is propylene
> glycol, which had the highest
boiling point and can run
> higher than 250° F (average temperature as
seen on a gauge) without
> forming steam pockets, but it must flow at more
than twice the
> speed of a water / ethylene glycol mixture (which means
major changes to
> most cooling systems).
>
> Jim
Berry
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 8 Apr 2002 16:06:57
-0700 (PDT)
From: Geoff Mohler <
gemohler@www.speedtoys.com>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: Re: Evans coolant reply
This assumes the pump impeller design
wont just cavitate at those RPMS.
This is something the 93-95 RX7s also
suffer from. Om one of em.
On Mon, 8 Apr 2002, Furman, Russell
wrote:
> Why not put a pulley on the pump that would make it spin
twice as fast?
> Only negative is a shortened pump life and we replace
them every 60K anyway?
>
- ---
Geoff Mohler
***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 08 Apr 2002 18:03:46
-0500
From: "
merritt@cedar-rapids.net" <
merritt@cedar-rapids.net>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Sniffer Test.
Get a Stillen. It replaces the front cat and
main cat.
Just keep your stock system intact and in one piece. That way,
you can swap it back on to pass emissions. My stock system is standing up agin
the garage wall, awaiting the day that Iowa gets emission tests.
That
Stillen is the best single performance upgrade I've done so far.
Rich/94
VR4
K&N, DSBC boost control, BOV, Stillen, custom catback.
At
10:45 PM 4/8/02 +0000, Aaron Kealey wrote:
>Hey Guys,
>
>I'm
dying for a downpipe. Problem is I live in Toronto, and we have to pass
>an emissions test every 2 years to renew our license.
***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 8 Apr 2002 19:21:33
-0400
From: "Omar Malik" <
ojm@iname.com>
Subject: RE: Team3S:
Throttle body gasket
Looks like they gave you a gasket for a mitsu galant
2.0 liter.. at least
that's what caps says.
Omar
-
-----Original Message-----
From:
owner-team3s@team3s.com
[mailto:owner-team3s@team3s.com]On Behalf
Of Joseph Spainhour
Sent:
Monday, April 08, 2002 4:38 PM
To:
Team3S@stealth-3000gt.stSubject:
Team3S: Throttle body gasket
Hello all,
I picked up a
throttle body gasket at a local parts store. The
package claims to be for a
mitsu 90-95 3.0L. The number on it was
MD146883. I can not find this part
listed in cups. Also, the gasket is
made of different material than the one
on the car. The original
appears to be light weight metal. Kind of like
alluminum. The new on
looks more like a regular gasket.
Can anyone
shed some light on this.
Joseph
93 3kGT VR4
***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 8 Apr 2002 20:12:15
-0700
From: "noble" <
nketo@sympatico.ca>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: Re: Evans coolant reply
Thanks for the input Jack :)
I
guess the tried and tested big aluminum radiator and Redline waterwetter
is
what you're referring to
as a better
solution?
Regards,
Noble
- ----- Original Message
-----
From: xwing <
xwing@wi.rr.com>
To: <
team3s@stealth-3000gt.st>
Sent:
Monday, April 08, 2002 3:20 PM
Subject: Team3S: Re: Evans coolant
reply
> I went through all the wonderful-sounding tech info from them,
and it
sounds
> like to work best you really should change to a much
higher-flow
waterpump,
> as the coefficient of heat TRANSFER is LESS
with the Evans coolant, and so
> need more flow to get equivalent RATE of
heat transfer...though ultimate
> BOILING POINT is less than
water/glycol.
> I passed on it. This is a problem with much easier
solutions than...a
weird
> new "solution" :)
>
JT
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 8 Apr 2002 20:19:18
-0700
From: "noble" <
nketo@sympatico.ca>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: Re: Evans coolant reply
Maybe I got the tech guy on a bad day
:)
Trevor, please let me know how this system works once you test
it.
It seems that it worked very well on a few Mitsu platforms (see the
"peaks
climb" test data
Evans provides under their "test programs" section
in '93.)
Without any datalogs provided however, I'd rather rely on more
recent
findings/recommendations.
Regards,
Noble
- -----
Original Message -----
From: Trevor James <
trevor@kscable.com>
To: xwing <
xwing@wi.rr.com>; <
team3s@stealth-3000gt.st>
Sent:
Monday, April 08, 2002 3:57 PM
Subject: Re: Team3S: Re: Evans coolant
reply
> That's really strange. I've talked with the tech guys at
Evans on the
phone
> about my car and NPG+. They never recommended not
using NPG+. The only
thing
> they were worried about is that if the
pressure on the zero psi cap is too
> high when the thermostat is closed
the water pump will end up pumping all
> the NPG+ into the overflow
tank.
>
> I'm looking at the literature that was provided with my
NPG+. It says that
> there's no plumbing or pump changes required for the
NPG+. NPG+ was just
> recently released and it has a better coeficient of
heat transfer and
lower
> viscocity than the old NPG that you probably
did research on Jack.
>
> 93-95 RX-7's have a substandard cooling
system from the factory that
> constantly overheats. Most of the owners
have to upgrade their radiator
just
> to keep stock heat levels in
check. What sold me is that those guys have
had
> excellent results
with NPG+. After upgrading to NPG+ most FD's never
> overheat...even with
a stock cooling system. That alone proves that it
works
> really
well...not only on the boiling point front but also when it comes
to
>
heat evacuation under extreme circumstances with stock
components.
>
> I'm still going to try it...I think it might be a
big help no matter how
> many of you guys think it's a scam. If it's a
waste of cash then I'll be
> sure to tell you guys. It's not like it's
THAT expensive or that hard to
put
> conventional coolant back in the
system.
>
> Trevor
> 96 R/T TT,
11.82@116.1 on 93 Octane & 93 Octane
>
97 VR-4 w/45k For Sale!
> 94 300ZX TT w/52k
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 8 Apr 2002 20:04:18
-0400
From: "Zobel, Kurt" <
KURT.ZOBEL@ca.com>
Subject: RE:
Team3S: More Brakes
Yes, you'll love them. I have used these pads for two
years on the street
and track and am very happy with them. I am going to try
some porterfield
stuff this year on the track. It may be better in terms of
brute stopping
force, but will likely wear faster, both pads and rotors.
Unless you are going on the track, check your rear pads and rotors, they
are
likely still good.
I like the drilled rotors, even though lately there
are many naysayers. I
think they do help control heat, and likely help in wet
conditions on the
street.
Kurt
-
-----Original Message-----
From:
M3000GTSL84@aol.com
[mailto:M3000GTSL84@aol.com]
Sent: Sunday, April 07, 2002 7:00 PM
To:
Team3S@stealth-3000gt.stSubject:
Team3S: More Brakes
Gotta love brakes. It appears its time for a set of
new pads for my SL. i
saw
the stillin metal matrix pads, and vented cross
drilled rotors. Anybody use
these items and like them? the pads from mitsu
are the same price, so if i
can upgrade, then now seems like the best
time.
- -mike
97 SL
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 08 Apr 2002 22:33:25
-0400
From: Mike Chapleski <
michael.chapleski@verizon.net>
Subject:
Team3S: Purpose of Fuel Pressure Regulator
I am in the middle of
upgrading my fuel lines. I am taking out all the
metal tubing between
the fuel filter, fuel rails, and then back to the
return line. It will
all be replaced with AN-8 lines. I am trying to
figure out what to do
about the stock fuel pressure regulator. I have a
fuel pressure gauge
that I want to put on the end of the fuel rail (
where the FPR is now).
I see in the TIM manual that the FPR maintains
43 PSI. Is this true
throughout the boost range. I would think not.
Aeromotive has a FPR
that is good to 1000hp (whatever that means) but
it has a tap on it for
boost so that it raises the fuel pressure in line
with boost pressure.
Is this what our FPR does?
Also, I want to replace the stock fuel filter
with an Earl's In-Line
fuel Filter. It flows 4-5 GPH is that
enough? Has anyone used one of
these?
Thanks,
Mike
Chapleski
'95 Stealth RT TT
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 09 Apr 2002 03:04:15
+0000
From:
apedenko@attbi.comSubject: Re: Team3S:
RE: [Sorta Long] ECU Upgrade
I myself have started working on a
datalogger for those
cars, but am having problems reverse engineering the
eeprom (i have a dump). Anyone with the know-how to
help me out is more
than welcome to contact me
offlist... Any and all help would be greately
appreciated.
I can do everything (and then some) on the pc side,
just not the ecu side.
Alex
'95 OBDIII (obdI proggie + obdII
connector = OBDIII ;)
> John,
>
> Since you have a 94 VR4,
your talents will probably be used better if
> you made a datalogger for
the 94-95 cars which are not quite OBD II
> compliant. If you can
make something that will display on a computer
> screen in real time all
the relevant parameters the ECU sees, then we
> could use the datalogger
in conjunction with other equipment to tune our
> cars. That's just
a thought...
>
> My brother is a computer programmer, but
since he is still in grad
> school, his time is a bit tight. If
someone has the engineering
> background and knows the layout of the
program he can probably help.
>
> -MIHAI-
> 95 Red
VR4
>
> John
> 94 Pearl Yellow TT
>
> Date: Sat,
06 Apr 2002 13:57:13 +0800
> From: "John Stegall III" <
jstegall@programmer.net>
>
Subject: Team3S: RE: [Sorta Long] ECU Upgrade (Was: anyone ever used a
>
jetchip ECU Upgrade)
>
> All right, so I've heard of the G-Force
upgrade, and I managed to find
> that one from dynamicracing.com... (I
think it was them). Then I hear
> big waste, bad idea. I'm not
too interested in a boost controller and
> having to use a datalogger to
watch my knock. I didn't have one with my
> Talon TSi, and I've even
seen a datalogger - maybe I'm being a wuss.
> But I doubt that I'd be able
to actually watch it all the time,
> especially if I'm racing
someone.
>
> I'm sure someone else on this list is probably a
programmer or EE, and
> perhaps has even though of it, or perhaps I'm
dreaming of something that
> for some reason or another is too hard to do
with our cars due to costs,
> resources, or proprietary components.
What's everyone think?
>
> John
> 1994 3000GT
VR-4
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 8 Apr 2002 20:27:05
-0700
From: "fastmax" <
fastmax@cox.net>
Subject: Re: Team3S:
Purpose of Fuel Pressure Regulator
The fuel pressure is kept at 43# above
boost pressure --- at 15 pounds of
boost the fuel pressure is 43+15 or 58
psi.
in order to get the proper flow rate the injectors need 43 PSI of
pressure
across the injector so if the intake plenum pressure increases [
boost mode ]
the fuel pressure needs to increase by the same
amount.
Jim
berry
======================================================
- -----
Original Message -----
From: "Mike Chapleski" <
michael.chapleski@verizon.net>
To:
"Team 3S" <
team3s@stealth-3000gt.st>
Sent:
Monday, April 08, 2002 7:33 PM
Subject: Team3S: Purpose of Fuel Pressure
Regulator
> I am in the middle of upgrading my fuel lines. I am
taking out all the
> metal tubing between the fuel filter, fuel rails, and
then back to the
> return line. It will all be replaced with AN-8
lines. I am trying to
> figure out what to do about the stock fuel
pressure regulator. I have a
> fuel pressure gauge that I want to
put on the end of the fuel rail (
> where the FPR is now). I see in
the TIM manual that the FPR maintains
> 43 PSI. Is this true
throughout the boost range. I would think not.
> Aeromotive has a
FPR that is good to 1000hp (whatever that means) but
> it has a tap
on it for boost so that it raises the fuel pressure in line
> with boost
pressure. Is this what our FPR does?
>
> Also, I want to
replace the stock fuel filter with an Earl's In-Line
> fuel Filter.
It flows 4-5 GPH is that enough? Has anyone used one of
>
these?
>
> Thanks,
>
> Mike Chapleski
> '95
Stealth RT TT
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 8 Apr 2002 20:52:13
-0700 (PDT)
From: Geoff Mohler <
gemohler@www.speedtoys.com>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Purpose of Fuel Pressure Regulator
The more accurate way of
saying the same thing is the static pressure is
43psi, and it rises and falls
with boost/vacum.
On Mon, 8 Apr 2002, fastmax wrote:
> The fuel
pressure is kept at 43# above boost pressure --- at 15 pounds of
> boost
the fuel pressure is 43+15 or 58 psi.
>
> in order to get the
proper flow rate the injectors need 43 PSI of pressure
> across the
injector so if the intake plenum pressure increases [ boost mode ]
> the
fuel pressure needs to increase by the same amount.
>
> Jim berry
-
---
Geoff Mohler
*** Info:
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------------------------------
Date: Mon, 08 Apr 2002 23:11:20
-0500
From: Matt Jannusch <
mjannusch@attbi.com>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: Re: Evans coolant reply
Furman, Russell wrote:
>Why not
put a pulley on the pump that would make it spin twice as fast?
>Only
negative is a shortened pump life and we replace them every 60K
anyway?
>
The pulley is run by the timing belt, so if you change the
diameter of
the pulley you'd need to change the length of the timing
belt. Not
something I'd personally want to fiddle with.
(Assuming you even could
change the pulley if you wanted to).
-
-Matt
'95 3000GT Spyder VR4
*** Info:
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------------------------------
Date: Tue, 9 Apr 2002 00:00:30
-0500
From: "xwing" <
xwing@wi.rr.com>
Subject: Team3S:
Re: Evans coolant reply
Yes, if I ever develop cooling problems,
the first thing I'd do is make SURE
my fans are both working right, and that
my radiator wasn't partially
plugged; then use (water+"water wetter"); then
I'd get a bigger radiator.
Maybe the older NPG required double the
waterflow rate and the "new" stuff
doesn't...but somehow I bet propylene
glycol is propylene glycol. Dunno.
If it solves problems for RX7's it
can't be all bad. I'd just hate to have
some problem far from home/a
supply of the stuff if I needed it all of a
sudden. I am coming to
appreciate parts commonality more than custom
one-off stuff...more and
more.
Jack T.
From: "noble" <
nketo@sympatico.ca>
> Thanks for
the input Jack :
> I guess the tried and tested big aluminum radiator and
Redline waterwetter
> is what you're referring to
> as a better
solution?
> Noble
> From: xwing <
xwing@wi.rr.com>
> > I went
through all the wonderful-sounding tech info from them, and it
sounds
>
> like to work best you really should change to a much
higher-flow
waterpump,
> > as the coefficient of heat TRANSFER is
LESS with the Evans coolant, and
so
> > need more flow to get
equivalent RATE of heat transfer...though ultimate
> > BOILING POINT is
less than water/glycol.
> > I passed on it. This is a problem
with much easier solutions than...a
weird
> > new "solution"
:)
> > JT
> > > Here's the message I just received
regarding the use of Evans NPG+ in
our
> > > cooling
systems:
> > > "Thank you for your interst in Evans, we suggest
staying you stay with
the
> > > recomended coolant from the
Manufacturer."
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------------------------------
Date: Tue, 09 Apr 2002 02:27:13
-0400
From: "Philip V. Glazatov" <
gphilip@umich.edu>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: Purpose of Fuel Pressure Regulator
The more accurate, the more
technical... Let's confuse everyone so that
they just quit this list at
once. Hey, I am just happy I understood the
idea without reading it
twice.
Hmm... 58 psi of fuel pressure. Why are we then testing fuel pumps
at 43?
It should be 58 or even 73 psi.
Philip
At 11:52 PM
4/8/2002, Geoff Mohler wrote:
>The more accurate way of saying the same
thing is the static pressure is
>43psi, and it rises and falls with
boost/vacum.
>
>On Mon, 8 Apr 2002, fastmax wrote:
>
>
> The fuel pressure is kept at 43# above boost pressure --- at 15 pounds
of
> > boost the fuel pressure is 43+15 or 58 psi.
> >
>
> in order to get the proper flow rate the injectors need 43 PSI of
pressure
> > across the injector so if the intake plenum pressure
increases [ boost
> mode ]
> > the fuel pressure needs to
increase by the same amount.
> >
>
> Jim berry
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------------------------------
End of Team3S: 3000GT &
Stealth V1
#806
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