Team3S: 3000GT & Stealth Saturday, April 6
2002 Volume 01 : Number
804
----------------------------------------------------------------------
Date:
Fri, 5 Apr 2002 23:13:12 -0500
From: "John Monnin" <
John.Monnin@3Si.zzn.com>
Subject:
Team3S: RE: ball joind supplier
Check out this 3si thread for a guy who
claims he can get ball
joints, but not is USA.
http://209.58.199.225/vbb/showthread.php?
s=bf5730dc42472143f66a03235de2a8d4&threadid=51599
SAS
(shock absorber services ) Part #SAS-B404
Shock Absorber Services Ltd
15
Ryan Plc Manukau City Auckland
Phone: 09 2623684
The guy who found
this is:
sirbbobivis@hotmail.comI would
consider this a medium to high risk proposition because I
don't know of
anyone who has actually bought one from him,
If anyone actually is able
to get these please post the board.
John Monnin
john.monnin@3si.zzn.com1991 VR-4
4-bolt main conversion
National gathering road course event
organizer
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Sat, 06 Apr 2002 13:57:13
+0800
From: "John Stegall III" <
jstegall@programmer.net>
Subject:
Team3S: RE: [Sorta Long] ECU Upgrade (Was: anyone ever used a jetchip ECU
Upgrade)
All right, so I've heard of the G-Force upgrade, and I managed
to find that one from dynamicracing.com... (I think it was them). Then I
hear big waste, bad idea. I'm not too interested in a boost controller and
having to use a datalogger to watch my knock. I didn't have one with my
Talon TSi, and I've even seen a datalogger - maybe I'm being a wuss. But I
doubt that I'd be able to actually watch it all the time, especially if I'm
racing someone.
I'm quite the avid Assembly programmer (my understanding
of what most ECUs are written in), and I know that if I can get the right
resources, I'm all for reprogramming the chips on our ECU. With the help
of a few old friends in college who were EEs, I managed to reprogram my Talon
TSi's ECU with a new chip; after only thrashing two mobos (trying to solder a
new chip onto the original board) - and that was by only modifying the code from
the original chips.
I'm sure some of the gurus on this list, whom I've
seen list various physics formulas for components on our cars, could figure out
(if they haven't already) formulas that would allow for much more
flexibility. However, I know that we don't have nearly the resources that
those on the DSM list do. So I'm interested in hearing from the list, and
you gurus, if this is worth my time investing in. I can't see it being too
hard to reprogram them (since I've also programmed mod-chips and various other
Flash BIOS chips) on NEW chips and resoldering the things back on to the
original mobo. I'm sure someone else on this list is probably a programmer
or EE, and perhaps has even though of it, or perhaps I'm dreaming of something
that for some reason or another is too hard to do with our cars due to costs,
resources, or proprietary components. What's everyone
think?
John
1994 3000GT VR-4
- --
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Sat, 6 Apr 2002 00:45:25
-0800
From: "Riyan Mynuddin" <
riyan@hotpop.com>
Subject: Team3S:
follow-up: rust bucket? worth my time? plz help!
My car website has been
updated. Fortunately, I am making progress on
it!Thanks to Darren,
low-bandwidth connectionns can drop by too :)
Here is the new URL. Please
disregard the old URL.
http://www.advantedgecomputing.com/stllow/thumpag.htmRiyan
93
stealth rt tt
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Sat, 6 Apr 2002 01:05:33
-0800
From: "Riyan Mynuddin" <
riyan@hotpop.com>
Subject: Team3S:
follow-up: rust bucket? worth my time? plz help!
gave the wrong URL on
the last post. Here's the right one with the update.
http://www.advantedgecomputing.com/stllow/stealth.htmRiyan
93
stealth rt tt
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Sat, 6 Apr 2002 02:13:40
-0800
From: "Bradford J. Gay" <
bradfordjgay@charter.net>
Subject:
Team3S: Launching
Anyone got any tips on how to launch these cars in the
1/4? The first
Test 'n Tune is tomorrow.
- -Brad
97
VR-4
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Sat, 6 Apr 2002 02:41:16
-0800
From: "BlackLight" <
BlackLight@Planetice.net>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: RE: ball joind supplier
Hold off on that ball joint thing, I
may have a second option in a few
weeks for lower control arm replacements
with ball joints WITH camber
adjustments. Please don't ask me any more cause
I don't know, I'll find
out hopefully in about a week. There are some other
very cool things on
the horizon as well for us TT guys too, I will inform all
the lists at
once I get an answer . . .
Matt Nelson
1994 RT
TT
Computer Sales Consultant
Gateway Computers, Salem OR
Work Phone
503-587-7113
BlackLight@Planetice.Netwww.BlackLight.5u.com-
-----Original Message-----
From:
owner-team3s@team3s.com
[mailto:owner-team3s@team3s.com] On Behalf
Of John Monnin
Sent: Friday,
April 05, 2002 8:13 PM
To:
Team3S@stealth-3000gt.stCc:
romachka21@netscape.netSubject:
Team3S: RE: ball joind supplier
Check out this 3si thread for a guy who
claims he can get ball
joints, but not is USA.
http://209.58.199.225/vbb/showthread.php?
s=bf5730dc42472143f66a03235de2a8d4&threadid=51599
SAS
(shock absorber services ) Part #SAS-B404
Shock Absorber Services Ltd
15
Ryan Plc Manukau City Auckland
Phone: 09 2623684
The guy who found
this is:
sirbbobivis@hotmail.comI would
consider this a medium to high risk proposition because I
don't know of
anyone who has actually bought one from him,
If anyone actually is able
to get these please post the board.
John Monnin
john.monnin@3si.zzn.com1991 VR-4
4-bolt main conversion
National gathering road course event
organizer
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Sat, 6 Apr 2002 13:01:09
+0200
From: "Roger Gerl" <
roger.gerl@bluewin.ch>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: ECU Upgrade
I have the G-Force ECU with some programs and I
also burn the EPROMS myself
(has nothing to do with Assembler programming) .
Making a daughterboard
isn't a big problem. Just desolder the CPU and put a
socket in it. Then use
an emulator socket and solder it to a board you may
design that holds again
the CPU bit with one pin grounded so the internal
program is disabled. Then
use two EPROMs that hold the same program as they
are addressed alternately.
The fuel and ignition map is not that
complicated but it's somewhat unknown
what happens if the values are changed.
If you want to have 720cc injectors
this doesn't mean that you will be able
to devide the values by two.
You managed to burn chips and to change a
program but how good was this ?
Only a little better or the optimum ? What
was then the knock readout and
what values have you choosen to retard the
timing ? If you don't know this,
then it is very hard to tune anything in.
Without the datalogger I'd not
have any chance to tune in the car properly.
If you don't use a fine-tuning
tool you will just be somewhat average. If you
don't want use an aftermarket
boost controller, then you're just playing in
the lower end of the liga as
the stock solenoid is not worth anything and no
program in the ECU includes
an intelligent feedback system like external
boost controllers (or some
piggyback systems) do.
If you don't want to
make yourfingers dirty then stop with your research
now. I finally was happy
to become able to reprogram the EPROMs bit that's
it. I just know that there
is a little effect and I would need hours of dyno
runs with an emulator to
find out the proper values needed. And even then
there is no guarantee that
the stuff works well then and some fine-tunign
msut always be done. Bit if yo
u are one of them that are with 60% of the
power happy, then it's ok to go
without.
IMHO, a fire-and-forget performance system is not existing. Here
in Europe
the people are like you. They call me up and say "I want to have
600hp in my
Audi RS4, how much is it ? " They are not interested in how to
get this but
only in how much it costs. When you then tell them to install a
boost
controller that allows them to adjust the bosot by themselfes then they
say
no thanks. I then jsut send them to another shop that installs
larger
turbos, intercoolers, heads, bottom end .... and change the program in
the
chip and the 600hp are born. but it costs $20000 !
So, if oyu
don't want to fiddle around by yourself then let one do the
installation and
tell him that you don't want to have any dials in the
cockpit. Then they will
isntall and tune in everything for you. At the end
be prepared to send the
car back many times until it runs as good as you
want (if it ever will). Just
ask some people with a VPC or a G-Force ECU.
Some sold that stuff as it never
worked well for them like they wanted.
Roger
93'3000GT TT
www.rtec.ch- ----- Original Message
-----
From: "John Stegall III" <
jstegall@programmer.net>
To:
<
Team3S@stealth-3000gt.st>
Sent:
Saturday, April 06, 2002 7:57 AM
Subject: Team3S: RE: [Sorta Long] ECU
Upgrade (Was: anyone ever used a
jetchip ECU Upgrade)
> All right,
so I've heard of the G-Force upgrade, and I managed to find
that one from
dynamicracing.com... (I think it was them). Then I hear big
waste, bad
idea. I'm not too interested in a boost controller and having to
use a
datalogger to watch my knock. I didn't have one with my Talon TSi,
and
I've even seen a datalogger - maybe I'm being a wuss. But I doubt
that
I'd be able to actually watch it all the time, especially if I'm
racing
someone.
>
> I'm quite the avid Assembly programmer (my
understanding of what most ECUs
are written in), and I know that if I can get
the right resources, I'm all
for reprogramming the chips on our ECU.
With the help of a few old friends
in college who were EEs, I managed to
reprogram my Talon TSi's ECU with a
new chip; after only thrashing two mobos
(trying to solder a new chip onto
the original board) - and that was by only
modifying the code from the
original chips.
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Sat, 06 Apr 2002 07:44:47
-0600
From: "
merritt@cedar-rapids.net" <
merritt@cedar-rapids.net>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: RE: [Sorta Long] ECU Upgrade
>I'm quite the avid Assembly
programmer <snip> I can't see it being too hard to reprogram them (since
I've also programmed mod-chips and various other Flash BIOS chips) on NEW chips
and resoldering the things back on to the original mobo. <snip>
perhaps I'm dreaming of something that for some reason or another is too hard to
do with our cars due to costs, resources, or proprietary components.
What's everyone think?
What we really need around here is somebody who
can fix ECUs when they break -- i.e, diagnose and repair component failures,
such as capacitors and such. Maybe folks who have replaced their ECUs could send
you their old, broken devices so you could dissassemble a few, figure out what's
going on, and provide an ECU repair service to the list. After all, our cars are
getting older, and I'm seeing more posts about broke ECUs these days. You'd
probably make a small fortune at it.
Once you've figured out how
everything works in there, I'm sure Roger and boys would have lots of
suggestions on how to change the internal maps.
>I'm sure someone else
on this list is probably a programmer or EE,
I was an assembly language
programmer years ago. I wrote real-time interrupt handlers for the IBM 4Pi
computer in Apollo spacecraft. Some of my programs are still on the moon, in the
lander module. Damn, that was a long time ago, when I was a long-haired hippie
punk kid driving a 64 GTO and drag racing on the street.
Sigh. Nostalgia
just isn't what it used to be.
Rich/slow old poop/94
VR4.
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Sat, 6 Apr 2002 12:50:05
-0500
From: "Darren Schilberg" <
dschilberg@pobox.com>
Subject: RE:
Team3S: Launching
Brad,
Unless you have $5,000 or a spare tranny
sitting at home ... don't
launch a VR-4 too hard on the 1/4. I thought
there was something about
launching them in the Team3S FAQ though,
www.team3s.com/FAQlaunch1.htm.
You
can do some marvelous launches about 3 times. Then clutches start
to
wear, second gear synchro teeth start to strip, etc. Then it is
all
over.
- --Flash!
1995 VR-4
- -----Original
Message-----
From: Bradford J. Gay
Sent: Saturday, April 06, 2002
05:14
Anyone got any tips on how to launch these cars in the 1/4?
The first
Test 'n Tune is tomorrow.
- -Brad
97
VR-4
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Sat, 6 Apr 2002 21:28:16
+0200
From: "Roger Gerl" <
roger.gerl@bluewin.ch>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: RE: [Sorta Long] ECU Upgrade
> What we really need around
here is somebody who can fix ECUs when they
break -- i.e, diagnose and repair
component failures, such as capacitors and
such.
There are services
around that do that already :)
Roger
93'3000GT TT
www.rtec.ch*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Sat, 6 Apr 2002 13:35:33
-0600
From: "Oskar Persson" <
osk@attbi.com>
Subject: RE: Team3S:
Launching
Brad - the opinions stated below are bullshit. Many of us
have done lots of
launches without the problems described below.
Good
luck at the Test 'n Tune!
Oskar
'95 R/T TT
12.6 @ 108 (twice) on
stock clutch and turbos
- -----Original Message-----
From:
owner-team3s@team3s.com
[mailto:owner-team3s@team3s.com]On Behalf
Of Darren Schilberg
Sent:
Saturday, April 06, 2002 11:50 AM
To:
Team3S@stealth-3000gt.stSubject:
RE: Team3S: Launching
Brad,
Unless you have $5,000 or a spare
tranny sitting at home ... don't
launch a VR-4 too hard on the 1/4. I
thought there was something about
launching them in the Team3S FAQ though,
www.team3s.com/FAQlaunch1.htm.
You
can do some marvelous launches about 3 times. Then clutches start
to
wear, second gear synchro teeth start to strip, etc. Then it is
all
over.
- --Flash!
1995 VR-4
- -----Original
Message-----
From: Bradford J. Gay
Sent: Saturday, April 06, 2002
05:14
Anyone got any tips on how to launch these cars in the 1/4?
The first
Test 'n Tune is tomorrow.
- -Brad
97
VR-4
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Sat, 6 Apr 2002 14:43:12
-0500
From: "Darren Schilberg" <
dschilberg@pobox.com>
Subject: RE:
Team3S: Launching
Oskar,
I don't want to get into a
mud sling but there is no technical
content in your email. Please give
more support. Brad did not give the
age or miles of his car but I'm
sure it will work better than a first
gen TT car. Still, there are
hundreds of people in Dave Black's owner
database with "second gear synchro"
listed as the failed item in their
car.
I just don't think
the preferred method of driving the cars is to
dump the clutch at 5,000 RPM
either. I kinda look for longevity when
I'm driving. You can't go
fast if you can't even go.
- --Flash!
1995 VR-4
- -----Original
Message-----
From: Oskar Persson
Sent: Saturday, April 06, 2002
14:36
Brad - the opinions stated below are bullshit. Many of
us have done
lots of
launches without the problems described
below.
Good luck at the Test 'n Tune!
Oskar
'95 R/T TT
12.6
@ 108 (twice) on stock clutch and turbos
- -----Original
Message-----
From: Darren Schilberg
Sent: Saturday, April 06, 2002 11:50
AM
Brad,
Unless you have $5,000 or a spare tranny sitting at home
... don't
launch a VR-4 too hard on the 1/4. I thought there was
something about
launching them in the Team3S FAQ though,
www.team3s.com/FAQlaunch1.htm.
You
can do some marvelous launches about 3 times. Then clutches start
to
wear, second gear synchro teeth start to strip, etc. Then it is
all
over.
- --Flash!
1995 VR-4
- -----Original
Message-----
From: Bradford J. Gay
Sent: Saturday, April 06, 2002
05:14
Anyone got any tips on how to launch these cars in the 1/4?
The first
Test 'n Tune is tomorrow.
- -Brad
97
VR-4
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Sat, 06 Apr 2002 13:56:17
-0600
From: Matt Jannusch <
mjannusch@attbi.com>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: Launching
Darren Schilberg
wrote:
>Oskar,
>
> I don't want to get into a
mud sling but there is no technical
>content in your email. Please
give more support. Brad did not give the
>age or miles of his car
but I'm sure it will work better than a first
>gen TT car. Still,
there are hundreds of people in Dave Black's owner
>database with "second
gear synchro" listed as the failed item in their
>car.
>
I just don't think the preferred method of driving the cars is to
>dump
the clutch at 5,000 RPM either. I kinda look for longevity when
>I'm
driving. You can't go fast if you can't even go.
>
There wasn't
any technical content in your email either, so you and
Oskar are
even.
The second gear synchro problem is not at all related to launching
the
car. Synchros only come into play when changing gears - not when
launching the car. The synchros wear more from missed shifts and the
like.
The only advice I'll give on launching the car is to use a clutch
that
can take a lot of abuse so that you can slip it out rather than just
dropping the clutch and shocking the driveline. A sprung-hub friction
disc is best for preserving driveline parts.
I personally launch at
about 4000 rpm and let the clutch out pretty
quickly - but not sidestep
it. Add gas as you let the clutch out to
keep the revs up.
It
takes a lot of practice...
- -Matt
'95 3000GT Spyder
VR4
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Sat, 6 Apr 2002 15:23:15
-0500
From: "Darren Schilberg" <
dschilberg@pobox.com>
Subject: RE:
Team3S: Launching
I was noted by a friend that the synchro is not part of
launching and I
didn't mean to imply that it was. But with so many
people having
synchro problems ... it is that area that will fail or get weak
before
certain other areas (steering, suspension, etc.). Launching is
just
fine as long as you don't mind slipping the clutch at higher RPMs
(two
ways to launch ... around 5,000 and dump it or around 2,500 and slip
it
... more or less ... those are the two ways to do it for the TT
cars).
But people are saying that it is perfectly normal to launch the
car this
hard this fast every single time? I don't think so. It
won't last more
than one full season if that (let's assume you hit a Test and
Tune once
a month for 6 months and do maybe three passes a night). That
is about
15-20 really hard launches. I don't think I would want to do
that. And
sure it *might* hold up but it won't survive 60k miles later
or won't
survive another season like that.
Matt -- I thought noting
that people break synchros would be technical
content. I certainly know
Oskar's was not. Getting back to that though
is that AFTER the launch
you still need to shift twice for a 1/4 mile
run and who in their right mind
launches hard, gets an awesome 60-foot
time, and then goes, "Let's see, it's
clutch in, pause, shift to
neutral, pause, blip the throttle, shift into
second, clutch out."
Nobody. That is too slow and loses time in a
1/4. That is when the
synchros are going to shred because people power
shift at high RPMs and
expect everything to take the 250+ hp perfectly all
the time.
- --Flash!
1995 VR-4
- -----Original
Message-----
From: Matt Jannusch [mailto:mjannusch@attbi.com]
Sent:
Saturday, April 06, 2002 14:56
There wasn't any technical content
in your email either, so you and
Oskar are even.
The second gear
synchro problem is not at all related to launching the
car. Synchros
only come into play when changing gears - not when
launching the car.
The synchros wear more from missed shifts and the
like.
The only
advice I'll give on launching the car is to use a clutch that
can take a lot
of abuse so that you can slip it out rather than just
dropping the clutch
and shocking the driveline. A sprung-hub friction
disc is best for
preserving driveline parts.
I personally launch at about 4000 rpm and let
the clutch out pretty
quickly - but not sidestep it. Add gas as you
let the clutch out to
keep the revs up.
It takes a lot of
practice...
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Sat, 06 Apr 2002 14:28:55
-0800
From: Rich Fowler <
richfowler2@cox.net>
Subject:
Team3S: Faulty ARM1 or ECU?
Instead of cycling in closed loop and cycling
faster with increased load and
rpm, sometimes the led on the ARM1 meter
"sticks" down in the orange (lean)
area. If I floor it, it moves up a bit to
the green area, but no more.
Likewise, if I hit the test button on the SMC
alky kit, it hardly moves.
Now the strange part - if I turn on the AC for
a few seconds, then off - the
ARM meter LEDs start cycling normally again
(fast) and straight to blue if I
hit the gas or test the SMC alky/water
kit????? I've done this a few times
and for some reason, the AC is somehow
doing something with the way my ARM
is reading.
Another strange
symptom - I plugged in the pocketlogger and it was showing
normal closed loop
fast cycling and the led on the ARM was "sticking" around
the red/orange
area.
I posted this on 3si, but didn't really get a
response.
Rich
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Sat, 6 Apr 2002 16:18:49
-0800 (PST)
From: menalteed <
menalteed@yahoo.com>
Subject:
Team3S: Fuel pipe replacement.
My fuel line was so rusted to the fuel
filter
connector that the line twisted off rather then the
connector
twisting. I have found a
place where they have relay good
compression
connectors so I'm running about 4 feet of hose rated
for fuel
up to 250 pounds and a temp rating of 212, I
pulled my line down through the
rock shield and making
the connection just under the rock shield. I have
some
pvc pipe cut in half to make a new separate rock
shield for the
exposed section. I'm running the new
hose through a opening below the rear
turbo wastegate
near the frame, and then to the fuel filter. This set
up
is only going to be temporary I hope until I can
run a new A-8 or A-6 six
line all the way back to the
pump. I will not try and run it under the rock
shield
but again make a new protection set up with some
schedule 40 pvc
cut in half or as they say half
round, I can also shape it as needed
with a heat
source so that will be no problem, I
would like to do the job
right but after spending
several days going to everyplace that I can think
of
can't find anyone or anyplace that has metric fittings
that will fit
our car and allow me to use A-8 or A-6
fuel line, I have hours wasted
looking. I know some of
you have upgraded to bigger line but no one has
told
me how yet, or where they found fittings that would
work on our fuel
pump or stock fuel filter to make the
change to a new fuel line. I sure would
like anyone
who has made this change let me know. Just let me know
who
handels fuel line in metric because it is not in
the northwest.
peter
92 TT Stealth.
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Sat, 6 Apr 2002 19:16:29
-0600
From: "cody" <
overclck@satx.rr.com>
Subject:
Team3S: Need Head(s)
Need heads off 93+ 3000GT... cracked one...
(don't ask how cause I
don't know - haven't seen it in person yet - happened
while I was on
vacation).
- -Cody
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Sat, 6 Apr 2002 20:23:49
-0600
From: "Trevor James" <
trevor@kscable.com>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: Launching
15-20 hard launches before the tranny takes a dump?
You're out of your mind.
I launch my Stealth all the time on the street and
at the track. 1.7X 60's
are pretty common since I'm using four 275/35/18's. I
dump the clutch at
5100-5600 every time depending on percieved traction
levels. I have hundreds
of launches on my tranny with no apparent ill
effects.
On a side note I also power shift very quickly on all my runs
and don't have
any sychro problems whatsoever. The only thing I do to help
out the tranny
is to ensure the clutch is in all the way before I stir the
shifter and I
always lift off the throttle completely before each shift. You
can still
pull of good times using this method if you practice.
Listen
to this video...you can hear that I'm still able to shift relatively
quickly
while adhering to the above "synchro prolonging" rules.
http://home.kscable.com/trevorlj/1210@1168.MPG(that
run was a little slow because I launched too high and got some
excessive
wheelspin; I barely kept it off the revlimiter in 1st!)
Trevor
96 R/T
TT,
11.82@116.1, 93 Octane & Plain
radials
97 VR-4 w/45k (for sale!)
94 300ZX TT w/52k
- -----
Original Message -----
From: "Darren Schilberg" <
dschilberg@pobox.com>
To: <
Team3S@stealth-3000gt.st>
Sent:
Saturday, April 06, 2002 2:23 PM
Subject: RE: Team3S:
Launching
> I was noted by a friend that the synchro is not part
of launching and I
> didn't mean to imply that it was. But with so
many people having
> synchro problems ... it is that area that will fail
or get weak before
> certain other areas (steering, suspension,
etc.). Launching is just
> fine as long as you don't mind slipping
the clutch at higher RPMs (two
> ways to launch ... around 5,000 and dump
it or around 2,500 and slip it
> ... more or less ... those are the two
ways to do it for the TT cars).
>
> But people are saying that it is
perfectly normal to launch the car this
> hard this fast every single
time? I don't think so. It won't last more
> than one full
season if that (let's assume you hit a Test and Tune once
> a month for 6
months and do maybe three passes a night). That is about
> 15-20
really hard launches. I don't think I would want to do that.
And
> sure it *might* hold up but it won't survive 60k miles later or
won't
> survive another season like that.
>
> Matt -- I
thought noting that people break synchros would be technical
>
content. I certainly know Oskar's was not. Getting back to that
though
> is that AFTER the launch you still need to shift twice for a 1/4
mile
> run and who in their right mind launches hard, gets an awesome
60-foot
> time, and then goes, "Let's see, it's clutch in, pause, shift
to
> neutral, pause, blip the throttle, shift into second, clutch
out."
> Nobody. That is too slow and loses time in a 1/4. That
is when the
> synchros are going to shred because people power shift at
high RPMs and
> expect everything to take the 250+ hp perfectly all the
time.
>
> --Flash!
> 1995 VR-4
>
> -----Original
Message-----
> From: Matt Jannusch [mailto:mjannusch@attbi.com]
>
Sent: Saturday, April 06, 2002 14:56
>
> There wasn't any technical
content in your email either, so you and
> Oskar are even.
>
>
The second gear synchro problem is not at all related to launching the
>
car. Synchros only come into play when changing gears - not when
>
launching the car. The synchros wear more from missed shifts and
the
> like.
>
> The only advice I'll give on launching the car
is to use a clutch that
> can take a lot of abuse so that you can slip it
out rather than just
> dropping the clutch and shocking the
driveline. A sprung-hub friction
> disc is best for preserving
driveline parts.
>
> I personally launch at about 4000 rpm and let
the clutch out pretty
> quickly - but not sidestep it. Add gas as
you let the clutch out to
> keep the revs up.
>
> It takes a
lot of practice...
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Sat, 6 Apr 2002 21:57:21
-0500
From: "Tim & Marina Furbush" <
furbush4@netzero.net>
Subject:
Team3S: injecter question
What the difference between base Stealth SHOC
and the injecter in a 3000gt
vr4.
AND would they work in a Stealth
SHOC???
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Sat, 6 Apr 2002 20:41:10
-0800 (PST)
From: menalteed <
menalteed@yahoo.com>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: Fuel pipe replacement.
Jon, thankyou for the sugestions, you said
to try
"Try contacting a distributor of specialty fasteners."
There are
about three in the area of Seattle and I
tried them all with no luck, I also
tried the airplane
and army navy surplus route but had no luck. I
also
went to the Marine supply houses and break shops with
no luck, I
think I have covered everything that I
could think of but Mitsubishi has one
fine fitting
that no one else of Earth seems to have and I did
spend days
on it so I was hoping someone that has made
this change could lead me in the
right direction. I'm
going to most likey have to weld a american end on
to
the miti fittings to get it to work with new fuel
line.
Peter 92
TT
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
End of Team3S: 3000GT &
Stealth V1
#804
***************************************