Team3S: 3000GT & Stealth Friday, April 5
2002 Volume 01 : Number
803
----------------------------------------------------------------------
Date:
Thu, 4 Apr 2002 20:23:27 -0500
From: "Darren Schilberg" <
dschilberg@pobox.com>
Subject: RE:
Team3S: important-Bleeding brakes
Mike,
It wouldn't
hurt to get her another car to be safe. The good thing
is that with our
car there is a overlap of braking so if the front right
fails (it is linked
with the opposite corner the rear left) then the
front left and rear right
are still intact and will stop the car.
Stopping distance will increase but
you will still have brakes. That
assumes a complete failure in the
front right to rear left brake lines.
What you have is one out of four
possible calipers leaking so it should
work but I would rather see it up on
jack stands and repaired properly.
Since the flexible brake line
is lower than the hard brake lines,
lower than the master cylinder, fill
reservoir, etc. then it should be a
gravity feed and if you lost some fluid
then air should not have gotten
into the brake lines. This is
good. You are lucky. Just remember to
clean any brake fluid off
the car body as it eats paint easily.
The tricky part is if you
got air in the caliper. You should try to
bleed out any air that go in
there as that will not help in braking when
you need it to and it will stay
there until it compressed or worked into
the brake lines.
Also, don't send the car down the road without a spare bottle of
brake
fluid. You don't want the car to get somewhere and be bone dry.
$4 now
could safe a big accident and insurance claim.
Anyone
else?
- --Flash!
1995 VR-4 and veteran brake bleeder from open track
days
- -----Original Message-----
From:
M3000GTSL84@aol.comSent: Thursday,
April 04, 2002 20:14
I bled the brakes today on my SL. everything
seemed fine after i
finished
until the right front brake started leaking
fluid. i jacked the car up
and
found the bolt that attaches the rubber
line to the caliper itself (NOT
the
bleeder valve) was VERY loose. i
tightend it up, replaced any brake
fluid
that i lost, and drove the car.
Now guys it SEEMS fine, i checked for
leaking
fluid again and it looks
ok. But my mother must take the car tomarrow,
and it
would be unfortunite
if the brakes failed on her. My question is that as
long
as that bolt
that attaches the line to the caliper is tight, then im
good to
go
right?
thanx
- -mike
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 4 Apr 2002 19:23:52
-0800
From: "Bob Forrest" <
bf@bobforrest.com>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: suggestions needed on colored wipers
- ----- Original Message
-----
From: "'Anthony Melillo'" <
anthonymelillo3@comcast.net>
>
I am looking to replace my stock black wipers with something a little
more
sporty and colorful, but haven't been able to come up with much.
>
I found on place that has them on eBay, but after weeks of trying, I have
yet
to get an answer from them to see of they are the correct sizes, and
most
importantly will their wiper fit the rear ?
> If anyone knows of a better
place, maybe one that is a little more
reliable, I would greatly appreciate
it.
> Thanks
> Anthony Melillo
-
----------------------------------------------------->
I looked for
distributors of the GE Silicone Blades and came up with a
company called
SSPInc (Specialty Silicone Products Inc). Their product name
is the
"SilBlade", subtitled- High Performance Silicone Windshield
Wiper
Blades. They are guaranteed for 5 years, come in 7 colors, and
they're
$12.99 per wiper. I just ordered a pair of red ones for the
front and the
tab was $30.56 including cheapie shipping. I'm sure they
spec the wiper
sizes from the standard charts and would do the same for a
rear wiper. Get
'em at
www.sspinc.comBest,
Forrest
***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 4 Apr 2002 20:04:38
-0800
From: "Bob Forrest" <
bf@bobforrest.com>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: follow-up: rust bucket? worth my time? plz help!
Hey,
Riyan,
Before you trash this puppy, I suggest you contact Mike at San
Rafael Mitsu.
They are a Bay Area Team3S "Good Guys" Dealer - they know our
cars, and they
will work with us. They are "no BS", and an honest job
for an honest buck.
They also give a 10% Team3S disount for on-site
parts/service and 20% or
more on mail parts orders. (We owe many thanks
to Rick Pierce for setting
up a great working relationship with
them...).
The SRM numbers and email are on our website in the Good Guys
section.
www.Team3S.com/FAQpartsupply.htmBest,
Forrest
>
cody/team3s-
>
> Thanks for the info. I am starting to get more
confident that there is
still a chance in the car, and the mechanic just
didn't want to work on my
car because he didn't want to assume liability for
fixing brittle
nuts/bolts/parts that break when he is doing the repair. It's
a fine line,
because on one hand, it is "technically" the mechanic's fault
when he breaks
that kind of stuff. Maybe he would be more willing to
work with me if I
sign a release stating that he's not liable for things that
break on the
way, but then we're on the opposite side of the spectrum,
because if such a
release is in effect then he wouldn't even be careful and
cautious while
he's working. He'd just plow right in there, trigger happy,
since he'd be
making margin off anything he broke as well as the actual
repair!! talk
about a
nice business huh? However, that's not the
only problem. I've also heard
from many places that this is quite an
expensive car to maintain. It's a
dilemma, because I do have other cars, but
they are company cars. They're
conservative and boring. I've got a 92 chevy
astro LT and a 90 infiniti m30.
> The stealth is the only car that I
actually like. I have decided to take
detailed pictures of the car and make a
web site which would serve as a
great tool for:
> 1) local mechanics
that want to help me and make some $$$ while they're at
it
> 2)
potential buyers
> 3) anyone that wants to give additional advice as to
whether I should keep
the thing or not
> I will publish this website
hopefully within the next 48 hours. In the
meantime I will continue working
on the car by myself. We'll see where this
takes me.
> Riyan
>
black 93 stealth rt tt
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 05 Apr 2002 12:26:56
+0800
From: "John Stegall III" <
jstegall@programmer.net>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: anyone ever used a jetchip ECU Upgrade
I'm looking at doing
an ECU upgrade, and I haven't checked out GT-Pro yet (closest race shop to me),
but I've checked numerous sites online, and I've only found a few different
places that offer ECU upgrades. I'm sure others have had ECU upgrades, can
anyone give any suggestions of the best one to go with?
Thanks.
John
'94 3000GT VR-4
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 04 Apr 2002 22:30:51
-0700
From: Wayne <
whietala@prodigy.net>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: anyone ever used a jetchip ECU Upgrade
Find the distributor for
"Tectom"
It used to be G-Force, but i dont know if they are still
around.
Tectom is the only ECU that uses a daughter board like Roger
described.
All others are a waste of money.........
W
At 12:26
PM 4/5/02 +0800, John Stegall III wrote:
>I'm looking at doing an ECU
upgrade, and I haven't checked out GT-Pro yet
>(closest race shop to me),
but I've checked numerous sites online, and
>I've only found a few
different places that offer ECU upgrades. I'm sure
>others have had
ECU upgrades, can anyone give any suggestions of the best
>one to go
with? Thanks.
>
>John
>'94 3000GT VR-4
***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 4 Apr 2002 23:07:48
-0800
From: "Riyan Mynuddin" <
riyan@hotpop.com>
Subject: RE: Team3S:
follow-up: rust bucket? worth my time? plz help!
bob forrest /
team3s
Thanks for the tip Bob. :) Today I was able to jump-start the fuel
pump and
it was quite magnificent to watch the fuel spray all over the fuel
pump
assembly since the high pressure hose leading out of it is rusted to
pieces!
I am looking for one of those assemblies now. Other minor problem is
that a
wire harness that leads to the MFI relay seems to have a fault in it.
I'm
checking that out too.
I finished the website for my car. The
website gives pictures and details
on its condition, as well as where I am in
the diagnosis and repairs. My
official asking price is on there, in case
someone decides to buy the car as
is. Although it's... reasonable, it's not a
very attractive price yet, since
I prefer to keep it. However, things may
change. As far as San Rafael Mitsu
goes, I sent them a message through the
internet. I will call and ask for
Mike tomorrow. I highly doubt that they'll
come all the way out to Sunnyvale
(that's like 50 or so miles south of San
Rafael!) but at least they might be
able to give me some advice and/or a good
deal on some parts. The URL for my
car is:
http://www.advantedgecomputing.com/stealth/stealthrt.htmUnfortunately,
I have not created thumbnails for the pictures, so they all
load at once. If
you have broadband or another fast internet connection,
just go to the
page.
If you have a 56K connection you can:
1) go get yourself a
snack and some coffee while you wait for the damn thing
to
load!
or...
2) using internet explorer, go to tools pull down menu--->
internet
options ---> advanced tab, and uncheck the box next to "show
pictures". That
way, you can right-click on each image frame and click "show
picture" for
each one, one at a time.
I am updating the page quite
frequently, and I will take care of the
thumbnail problem ASAP since I know
it's quite inconsiderate to the slow
connection users. In the meantime, I
apologize for the
inconvenience.
Riyan
********************************
-
-----Original Message-----
From:
owner-team3s@team3s.com
[mailto:owner-team3s@team3s.com]On Behalf
Of Bob Forrest
Sent: Thursday,
April 04, 2002 8:05 PM
To: Team3S
Cc: Riyan Mynuddin; cody
Subject: Re:
Team3S: follow-up: rust bucket? worth my time? plz help!
Hey,
Riyan,
Before you trash this puppy, I suggest you contact Mike at San
Rafael Mitsu.
They are a Bay Area Team3S "Good Guys" Dealer - they know our
cars, and they
will work with us. They are "no BS", and an honest job
for an honest buck.
They also give a 10% Team3S disount for on-site
parts/service and 20% or
more on mail parts orders. (We owe many thanks
to Rick Pierce for setting
up a great working relationship with
them...).
The SRM numbers and email are on our website in the Good Guys
section.
www.Team3S.com/FAQpartsupply.htmBest,
Forrest
>
cody/team3s-
>
> Thanks for the info. I am starting to get more
confident that there is
still a chance in the car, and the mechanic just
didn't want to work on my
car because he didn't want to assume liability for
fixing brittle
nuts/bolts/parts that break when he is doing the repair. It's
a fine line,
because on one hand, it is "technically" the mechanic's fault
when he breaks
that kind of stuff. Maybe he would be more willing to
work with me if I
sign a release stating that he's not liable for things that
break on the
way, but then we're on the opposite side of the spectrum,
because if such a
release is in effect then he wouldn't even be careful and
cautious while
he's working. He'd just plow right in there, trigger happy,
since he'd be
making margin off anything he broke as well as the actual
repair!! talk
about a
nice business huh? However, that's not the
only problem. I've also heard
from many places that this is quite an
expensive car to maintain. It's a
dilemma, because I do have other cars, but
they are company cars. They're
conservative and boring. I've got a 92 chevy
astro LT and a 90 infiniti m30.
> The stealth is the only car that I
actually like. I have decided to take
detailed pictures of the car and make a
web site which would serve as a
great tool for:
> 1) local mechanics
that want to help me and make some $$$ while they're at
it
> 2)
potential buyers
> 3) anyone that wants to give additional advice as to
whether I should keep
the thing or not
> I will publish this website
hopefully within the next 48 hours. In the
meantime I will continue working
on the car by myself. We'll see where this
takes me.
> Riyan
>
black 93 stealth rt tt
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 5 Apr 2002 00:10:19
-0800
From: "Riyan Mynuddin" <
riyan@hotpop.com>
Subject: RE: Team3S:
follow-up: rust bucket? worth my time? plz help!
thanks a lot, I really
appreciate this. I'll get to work and most likely be
done by around noon
tomorrow. thanks again!
riyan
93 dodge stealth rt tt
-
-----Original Message-----
From: Darren Schilberg
[mailto:dschilberg@pobox.com]
Sent: Thursday, April 04, 2002 11:51 PM
To:
'Riyan Mynuddin'
Subject: RE: Team3S: follow-up: rust bucket? worth my time?
plz help!
Riyan,
Great job. Since I hate not
letting the slow-connection folks from
seeing your page I took the liberty of
creating thumbnails for your
page. Just load these pix and this page in
your site and it should
work.
- --Flash!
1995 VR-4 (running)
www.schilberg.com- -----Original
Message-----
From: Riyan Mynuddin
Sent: Friday, April 05, 2002
02:08
http://www.advantedgecomputing.com/stealth/stealthrt.htmUnfortunately,
I have not created thumbnails for the pictures, so they
all
load at once.
If you have broadband or another fast internet connection,
just go to the
page.
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 5 Apr 2002 08:16:57
-0500
From: "Furman, Russell" <
RFurman2@MassMutual.com>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: All 3 U-joints are shot...
Hey Damon, ACPT makes one that
replaces the first 2 sections of the prop
shaft, PST makes one that replaces
the whole thing. Unfortunately a PST
takes about 3.5 months to get as
where the ACPT is available from Dynamic
Racing in much less time.
I
am trying to find a local place for me to have a full length fabbed up
since
I really do not think 3 months wait is good customer service or
product
supply.
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Damon Rachell
[SMTP:damonr@mefas.com]
> Sent: Thursday, April 04, 2002 7:57 PM
>
To: team3s; 3sracers
> Subject: Team3S: All 3 U-joints are shot...
>
> Well, after last weekend's fiasco with the front sway bar, I checked
the
> fluidity of all the U-joints of the driveshaft. Well, each
and every
> one of them was notchy as hell. In fact, the one at the
differential
> was so notchy that it practically locked!
>
>
So, what are my options for driveshafts? There's little way that I buy
> a stocker that'll have the same problem in 50K miles without the
> possibility of replacement. Who makes carbon fiber ones?
Aluminum
> ones? Do the carbon fiber DSs remove all 3
sections?
>
> Thanks guys/gals.
> Damon
***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 5 Apr 2002 09:14:54
-0600
From: "dustin_lenz" <
dustin_lenz@hotmail.com>
Subject:
Team3S: Rear view mirror (can't see)
Is there anything that can be done
about the view out my back window
(other than replacing the wing). I
have a 97 and just got a ticket
because I could not see the cop following me
(who ended up pacing me and
getting me for going 20 over). Does anyone
else have this problem?
Dustin Lenz
97VR4 (With no view of what's
behind me)
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 5 Apr 2002 08:43:40
-0700
From: "Floyd, Jim" <
Jim_Floyd@maxtor.com>
Subject: RE:
Team3S: All 3 U-joints are shot...
Additional information.
http://209.58.199.225/vbb/showthread.php?s=&threadid=72639-
-----Original Message-------------------------------------
From: Furman,
Russell [mailto:RFurman2@MassMutual.com]
Sent: Friday, April 05, 2002 6:17
AM
To: 'Damon Rachell'; team3s; 3sracers
Subject: RE: Team3S: All 3
U-joints are shot...
Hey Damon, ACPT makes one that replaces the first 2
sections of the prop
shaft, PST makes one that replaces the whole
thing. Unfortunately a PST
takes about 3.5 months to get as where the
ACPT is available from Dynamic
Racing in much less time.
I am trying
to find a local place for me to have a full length fabbed up
since I really
do not think 3 months wait is good customer service or
product
supply.
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Damon Rachell
[SMTP:damonr@mefas.com]
> Sent: Thursday, April 04, 2002 7:57 PM
>
To: team3s; 3sracers
> Subject: Team3S: All 3 U-joints are shot...
>
> Well, after last weekend's fiasco with the front sway bar, I checked
the
> fluidity of all the U-joints of the driveshaft. Well, each
and every
> one of them was notchy as hell. In fact, the one at the
differential
> was so notchy that it practically locked!
>
>
So, what are my options for driveshafts? There's little way that I buy
> a stocker that'll have the same problem in 50K miles without the
> possibility of replacement. Who makes carbon fiber ones?
Aluminum
> ones? Do the carbon fiber DSs remove all 3
sections?
>
> Thanks guys/gals.
> Damon
***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 5 Apr 2002 10:45:49
-0500
From: "Furman, Russell" <
RFurman2@MassMutual.com>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: All 3 U-joints are shot...
Thanks Jim, any time frame on
delivery date if ordered say next week?
> -----Original
Message-----
> From: Floyd, Jim [SMTP:Jim_Floyd@maxtor.com]
> Sent:
Friday, April 05, 2002 10:44 AM
> To: team3s; 3sracers
> Subject:
RE: Team3S: All 3 U-joints are shot...
>
> Additional
information.
>
>
http://209.58.199.225/vbb/showthread.php?s=&threadid=72639>
>
> -----Original
Message-------------------------------------
> From: Furman, Russell
[mailto:RFurman2@MassMutual.com]
> Sent: Friday, April 05, 2002 6:17
AM
> To: 'Damon Rachell'; team3s; 3sracers
> Subject: RE: Team3S:
All 3 U-joints are shot...
>
>
> Hey Damon, ACPT makes one
that replaces the first 2 sections of the prop
> shaft, PST makes one that
replaces the whole thing. Unfortunately a PST
> takes about 3.5
months to get as where the ACPT is available from Dynamic
> Racing in much
less time.
>
> I am trying to find a local place for me to have a
full length fabbed up
> since I really do not think 3 months wait is good
customer service or
> product supply.
>
> > -----Original
Message-----
> > From: Damon Rachell [SMTP:damonr@mefas.com]
>
> Sent: Thursday, April 04, 2002 7:57 PM
> > To: team3s;
3sracers
> > Subject: Team3S: All 3 U-joints are shot...
> >
> > Well, after last weekend's fiasco with the front sway bar, I
checked the
>
> > fluidity of all the U-joints of the
driveshaft. Well, each and every
> > one of them was notchy as
hell. In fact, the one at the differential
> > was so notchy
that it practically locked!
> >
> > So, what are my options
for driveshafts? There's little way that I buy
> > a stocker
that'll have the same problem in 50K miles without the
> > possibility
of replacement. Who makes carbon fiber ones? Aluminum
> >
ones? Do the carbon fiber DSs remove all 3 sections?
> >
>
> Thanks guys/gals.
> > Damon
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 5 Apr 2002 08:56:23
-0700
From: "Floyd, Jim" <
Jim_Floyd@maxtor.com>
Subject: RE:
Team3S: All 3 U-joints are shot...
That would be a question for the folks
at PST.
I'm not affiliated with them, I just bought one of their
CFDS.
Start with Arlene at 888-575-7888.
- -----Original
Message-----
From: Furman, Russell [mailto:RFurman2@MassMutual.com]
Sent:
Friday, April 05, 2002 8:46 AM
To: 'Floyd, Jim'; team3s; 3sracers
Subject:
RE: Team3S: All 3 U-joints are shot...
Thanks Jim, any time frame on
delivery date if ordered say next week?
> -----Original
Message-----
> From: Floyd, Jim [SMTP:Jim_Floyd@maxtor.com]
> Sent:
Friday, April 05, 2002 10:44 AM
> To: team3s; 3sracers
> Subject:
RE: Team3S: All 3 U-joints are shot...
>
>
> Additional
information.
>
>
http://209.58.199.225/vbb/showthread.php?s=&threadid=72639>
> -----Original Message-------------------------------------
>
From: Furman, Russell [mailto:RFurman2@MassMutual.com]
> Sent: Friday,
April 05, 2002 6:17 AM
> To: 'Damon Rachell'; team3s; 3sracers
>
Subject: RE: Team3S: All 3 U-joints are shot...
>
> Hey Damon, ACPT
makes one that replaces the first 2 sections of the prop
> shaft, PST
makes one that replaces the whole thing. Unfortunately a PST
> takes
about 3.5 months to get as where the ACPT is available from Dynamic
>
Racing in much less time.
>
> I am trying to find a local place for
me to have a full length fabbed up
> since I really do not think 3 months
wait is good customer service or
> product supply.
>
> >
-----Original Message-----
> > From: Damon Rachell
[SMTP:damonr@mefas.com]
> > Sent: Thursday, April 04, 2002 7:57
PM
> > To: team3s; 3sracers
> > Subject: Team3S: All 3
U-joints are shot...
> >
> > Well, after last weekend's
fiasco with the front sway bar, I checked the
>
> > fluidity of
all the U-joints of the driveshaft. Well, each and every
> > one
of them was notchy as hell. In fact, the one at the differential
>
> was so notchy that it practically locked!
> >
> > So,
what are my options for driveshafts? There's little way that I buy
> > a stocker that'll have the same problem in 50K miles without the
> > possibility of replacement. Who makes carbon fiber
ones? Aluminum
> > ones? Do the carbon fiber DSs remove
all 3 sections?
> >
> > Thanks guys/gals.
> >
Damon
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 5 Apr 2002 09:58:41
-0600
From: "cody" <
overclck@satx.rr.com>
Subject: RE:
Team3S: Rear view mirror (can't see)
Yah, use your side mirrors.
The 97 Wing is prolly the best other than
the 99 wing as far as rearward
visibility. (one good thing about supras
- - their spoiler is entirely out of
the way of rearward visibility...)
- -Cody
- -----Original
Message-----
From:
owner-team3s@team3s.com
[mailto:owner-team3s@team3s.com] On Behalf
Of dustin_lenz
Sent: Friday,
April 05, 2002 9:15 AM
To:
Team3S@stealth-3000gt.stSubject:
Team3S: Rear view mirror (can't see)
Is there anything that can be done
about the view out my back window
(other than replacing the wing). I
have a 97 and just got a ticket
because I could not see the cop following me
(who ended up pacing me and
getting me for going 20 over). Does anyone
else have this problem?
Dustin Lenz
97VR4 (With no view of what's
behind me)
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 5 Apr 2002 08:38:52
-0800
From: "ek2mfg" <
ek2mfg@foxinternet.com>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: Rear view mirror (can't see)
I have the perfect fix for this
problem.......don't do 20 over!
on a more usefull note most if not all police
will look away from
8-10 over but 20 is the golden rule!!!!your going down.
Maybe one of
those multi mirrored deals fron JC Whitney? or the most
economical
thing would be to slow down.
bobk.
- ---- Original
Message ----
From:
dustin_lenz@hotmail.comTo:
Team3S@stealth-3000gt.stSubject:
RE: Team3S: Rear view mirror (can't see)
Date: Fri, 5 Apr 2002 09:14:54
-0600
>Is there anything that can be done about the view out my back
window
>(other than replacing the wing). I have a 97 and just got a
ticket
>because I could not see the cop following me (who ended up pacing
me
>and
>getting me for going 20 over). Does anyone else have
this problem?
>
>Dustin Lenz
>97VR4 (With no view of what's
behind me)
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 5 Apr 2002 08:48:39
-0800 (PST)
From: Geoff Mohler <
gemohler@www.speedtoys.com>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: All 3 U-joints are shot...
No offense fo ACPT, but the weld
on the front yoke failed on the T/A shaft
last weekend at Firebird in
Phoenix.
Of course..the shaft is 3yrs old, and probly has more abuse in
it than any
3S will ever see..but still.
Not to slam on them..just
saying what happened.
On Fri, 5 Apr 2002, Furman, Russell
wrote:
> Hey Damon, ACPT makes one that replaces the first 2 sections
of the prop
> shaft, PST makes one that replaces the whole thing.
Unfortunately a PST
> takes about 3.5 months to get as where the ACPT is
available from Dynamic
> Racing in much less time.
>
> I am
trying to find a local place for me to have a full length fabbed up
>
since I really do not think 3 months wait is good customer service or
>
product supply.
>
> > -----Original Message-----
> >
From: Damon Rachell [SMTP:damonr@mefas.com]
> > Sent: Thursday, April
04, 2002 7:57 PM
> > To: team3s; 3sracers
> > Subject: Team3S:
All 3 U-joints are shot...
> >
> > Well, after last weekend's
fiasco with the front sway bar, I checked the
> > fluidity of all the
U-joints of the driveshaft. Well, each and every
> > one of them
was notchy as hell. In fact, the one at the differential
> > was
so notchy that it practically locked!
> >
> > So, what are my
options for driveshafts? There's little way that I buy
> > a
stocker that'll have the same problem in 50K miles without the
> >
possibility of replacement. Who makes carbon fiber ones? Aluminum
> > ones? Do the carbon fiber DSs remove all 3 sections?
>
>
> > Thanks guys/gals.
> > Damon
- ---
Geoff
Mohler
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 05 Apr 2002 17:00:06
-0000
From: "Jeff Lucius" <
jlucius@stealth316.com>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: oil pressure relief valve location
I don't remember all the
details on this thread, but thought I would bring
this up if it hasn't been
mentioned. Despite "low" readings on the stock
meter, the oil pressure *may*
be fine. Take a look at Bob's post on 3SI at the
link below for more info.
http://www.3si.org/vbb/showthread.php?s=&threadid=63559In
summary, it looks like Bob removed the factor sender, installed a new
fitting and connected a long hose from the fitting to a handheld pressure
gauge (simple, cheap, effective). Actual oil pressure seems fine even though
the factory meter reads "low".
Cold startup: 100 psi (60ºF
ambient)
Engine warm:
idle: 17-21 psi
cruising:
2000 rpm: 32
psi
2500 rpm: 46 psi
WOT 14 psi boost:
6800 rpm: 65 psi
Location
of TT oil pressure sender:
http://www.stealth316.com/2-oilpresloc.htm
Jeff Lucius,
http://www.stealth316.com/- -----
Original Message -----
Sent: Thursday, April 04, 2002 4:52 PM
Subject:
Re: Team3S: oil pressure relief valve location
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 05 Apr 2002 10:13:54
-0700
From: "Justin Sturgeon" <
justinstur@hotmail.com>
Subject:
Team3S: intrax springs
I just want to know what everyone thinks of these
lowering springs. are
they better than the eibach's? Price is
better from what I have seen. What
kind of an improvement in handling
can i expect? Are there other springs i
should
consider?
thanks, Justin
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 5 Apr 2002 11:14:13
-0600
From: "Willis, Charles E." <
cewillis@TexasChildrensHospital.org>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: Rear view mirror (can't see)
> Maybe one of
> those
multi mirrored deals fron JC Whitney?
[Willis, Charles E.] This brings
up a question I have been wanting
to ask. I'd like one of those
multi-mirrored deals for track events.
Anybody have a recommendation for or
against?
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 5 Apr 2002 10:05:27
-0800
From: "BlackLight" <
BlackLight@Planetice.net>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: Rear view mirror (can't see)
My friend had one in his RX7,
works well, looks really dumb. For track
(road course) it might be nice, but
it's overkill IMHO for daily use.
Matt Nelson
1994 RT TT
Computer
Sales Consultant
Gateway Computers, Salem OR
Work Phone 503-587-7113
BlackLight@Planetice.Netwww.BlackLight.5u.com-
-----Original Message-----
From:
owner-team3s@team3s.com
[mailto:owner-team3s@team3s.com] On Behalf
Of Willis, Charles E.
Sent:
Friday, April 05, 2002 9:14 AM
To: 'ek2mfg';
dustin_lenz@hotmail.com;
Team3S@stealth-3000gt.stSubject:
RE: Team3S: Rear view mirror (can't see)
> Maybe one of
> those
multi mirrored deals fron JC Whitney?
[Willis, Charles E.] This brings
up a question I have been
wanting to ask. I'd like one of those
multi-mirrored deals for track
events. Anybody have a recommendation for or
against?
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 5 Apr 2002 10:35:14
-0800
From: "Gross, Erik" <
erik.gross@intel.com>
Subject:
Team3S: Update on My VR-4...
Finally got some good news this week:
my insurance IS going to cover the
damage from my spinning into a concrete
wall at a driver's school. I'm
still talking with the appraiser and am
in the process of determining
whether an estimate can be made without towing
it to a body shop or if I
have to pay for some unmangling before the full
damage can be seen.
I've also gotten the hood opened (had to cut the
latch out with a Sawzall)
and discovered why I couldn't pull the cable:
the latch was jammed against
a bracket and there was no way to physically
make the latch release. I now
have a 12" x 6" cold air duct in the
front of my hood and a trophy on my
garage wall. :-)
I also got the
active aero dam and the front splashguards off yesterday, so
I have a little
better view of the damage.
Question for those who know:
As I
suspected, the alternator/AC belt was severed (straight across the
belt, not
shredded), and there are some body parts shoved up near the
alternator and AC
compressor. I can spin the alternator pulley and it has a
little
resistance, but it feels like a bit much. There's so much crap in
the
way that I can't tell for sure, but I'm pretty sure something whacked
the
pulley at some point. *** Does this likely mean that the alternator
is
toast? What about the bracket that holds it on the block?
Still too early
to tell?
So here's what I know so far:
* I
don't think anything hit the front turbo -
it's close, but I think it's
safe.
* The loss of all my power steering fluid was
apparently due to the
cooling line (in front of the
radiator) being punctured by the driver's fog
light
bracket when it was pushed rearwards by the collision.
* Some of my
AC hard lines around the receiver and
compressor are kinked, but I don't
think punctured.
* The alternator and/or AC compressor may be damaged.
*
The AC and radiator fans work and the shrouds
may be ok.
* The driver's
intercooler is shaped like a typical
parallelogram now, rather than a
rectangle.
* The oil cooler has been relocated, but I think it may
be ok
(yay for flexible lines!)
* I'm SO glad I didn't have hard IC piping - I'll
have
pictures soon of how contorted those rubber lines are
now - I think
the metal pipes are ok, as is the
y-pipe.
* I think I have a little frame
sway in the front, but
it doesn't look that bad (so far).
* The rear
suspension's condition is still unknown -
the driver's wheel is definitely
bent, and I suspect
the upper/lower control arms may be slightly bent
as
well - is that what would typically bend from the
equivalent of
hitting a 1.5" to 2" curb sideways
at 1-2mph? [Please, oh please let
the rear steering
be ok...]
* The radiator is relocated and the upper
mounting posts
(plastic) are broken off, but the radiator itself
looks
like it may be ok.
* The hood is screwed, the passenger's fender is
bowed,
the driver's fender may be salvageable, the front
fascia is wadded
up, and the active aero dam looks like
somebody thought it was a Big Mac
wrapper and balled
it up and threw it on the ground.
Well, that's all
I know now... If it's possible, I want to repair the
car...
assuming that's the way things head, I'll probably have a few more
questions
in the coming weeks about what things technically don't *need* to
be
replaced, but "should" be replaced. And general pointers for what
to
watch out for in the repair process.
Oh yeah, and per the rules and
the request of the admins, any non-technical
responses should be kept
off-list (private). That would include stuff about
insurance companies,
how to deal with appraisers, telling me what an #$% I
am for marring such a
beautiful car, etc.
- --Erik
'95 VR-4 with concrete barrier
mod
"If it's metal or glass or plastic, and it's on the front
of
a VR-4... I need a new one."
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 5 Apr 2002 15:59:59
-0500
From: "Bill vp" <
billvp@highstream.net>
Subject:
Team3S: vpc/safc settings with 550s, 15G's
Does anyone have their base
settings that I could use as a comparison to
mine?
In order to reduce
knock (at 12 psi) to acceptable levels (below 10
sustained), I have the
following settings (old style SAFC)
VPC:
response = +6 turns
gain =
-8 (dial setting, not turns)
idle = +6 (getting ISC motor soon as car dies
under idle)
SAFC
800 = -22
2400 = -16
4000 = -8
5600 =
-6
7200 = -14
If anyone else would PLEASE comment on these settings,
as to whether they
are more rich than normal, or normal, I would greatly
appreciate it. Even
if you have the new style SAFC, please tell me your
settings. I need to
know if this is normal, or if I am having to run
super-rich because of
knock. On the pocketlogger I get 0.98v (sometimes
1.0v) with this setup at
WOT.
thanks,
Bill
***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 5 Apr 2002 16:40:45
EST
From:
M3000GTSL84@aol.comSubject: Re:
Team3S: Rear view mirror (can't see)
Dustin-
I dirve a 97 SL, so
the view out the back is the same. Our spoiler is my
favorite cosmetics
wise,but perhaps your taste is different, and u can always
change the
spoiler to a 96 and below, or a 99 VR-4. its huge, but it frames
the view so
you can see clear. While it cuts the view directly in half, it
only hinders
me on occasion, mostly cuz SUVs are above it, and cars are below
it, though
they can get lost. The only other help i can give you is that by
changing
the position of the seat sometimes allows a better view out the
back. The
price of beauty. . .
- -mike
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 5 Apr 2002 16:15:08
-0600
From: "Trevor James" <
trevor@kscable.com>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: All 3 U-joints are shot...
Be prepared to wait for the PST shaft.
I ordered mine back in May of last
year. For the last 3-4 months I keep being
told that it will ship in 2-3
weeks. I called Monday and Mark said thgat it
should ship next week. I've
heard that one before...
I can't race my
car until I get the new DS.
Trevor
96 R/T TT,
11.82@116.1, 93 Octane & Plain Radials
97
VR-4
94 300ZX TT 5M
- ----- Original Message -----
From: "Floyd,
Jim" <
Jim_Floyd@maxtor.com>
To: "'Furman,
Russell'" <
RFurman2@MassMutual.com>; "Floyd,
Jim"
<
Jim_Floyd@maxtor.com>;
"team3s" <
team3s@speedtoys.com>;
"3sracers"
<
3sracers@www.speedtoys.com>
Sent:
Friday, April 05, 2002 9:56 AM
Subject: RE: Team3S: All 3 U-joints are
shot...
> That would be a question for the folks at PST.
> I'm
not affiliated with them, I just bought one of their CFDS.
>
> Start
with Arlene at 888-575-7888.
>
> -----Original Message-----
>
From: Furman, Russell [mailto:RFurman2@MassMutual.com]
> Sent: Friday,
April 05, 2002 8:46 AM
> To: 'Floyd, Jim'; team3s; 3sracers
>
Subject: RE: Team3S: All 3 U-joints are shot...
>
> Thanks Jim, any
time frame on delivery date if ordered say next week?
>
> >
-----Original Message-----
> > From: Floyd, Jim
[SMTP:Jim_Floyd@maxtor.com]
> > Sent: Friday, April 05, 2002 10:44
AM
> > To: team3s; 3sracers
> > Subject: RE: Team3S: All 3
U-joints are shot...
> >
> >
> > Additional
information.
> >
> >
http://209.58.199.225/vbb/showthread.php?s=&threadid=72639>
>
> >
> > -----Original
Message-------------------------------------
> > From: Furman, Russell
[mailto:RFurman2@MassMutual.com]
> > Sent: Friday, April 05, 2002 6:17
AM
> > To: 'Damon Rachell'; team3s; 3sracers
> > Subject: RE:
Team3S: All 3 U-joints are shot...
> >
> >
> > Hey
Damon, ACPT makes one that replaces the first 2 sections of the prop
>
> shaft, PST makes one that replaces the whole thing. Unfortunately a
PST
> > takes about 3.5 months to get as where the ACPT is available
from
Dynamic
> > Racing in much less time.
> >
> >
I am trying to find a local place for me to have a full length fabbed up
>
> since I really do not think 3 months wait is good customer service
or
> > product supply.
> >
> > > -----Original
Message-----
> > > From: Damon Rachell
[SMTP:damonr@mefas.com]
> > > Sent: Thursday, April 04, 2002 7:57
PM
> > > To: team3s; 3sracers
> > > Subject: Team3S: All
3 U-joints are shot...
> > >
> > > Well, after last
weekend's fiasco with the front sway bar, I checked
the
> >
>
> > fluidity of all the U-joints of the driveshaft. Well, each and
every
> > > one of them was notchy as hell. In fact, the one
at the differential
> > > was so notchy that it practically
locked!
> > >
> > > So, what are my options for
driveshafts? There's little way that I
buy
> > > a stocker
that'll have the same problem in 50K miles without the
> > >
possibility of replacement. Who makes carbon fiber ones?
Aluminum
> > > ones? Do the carbon fiber DSs remove all 3
sections?
> > >
> > > Thanks guys/gals.
> >
> Damon
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 5 Apr 2002 16:23:57
-0600
From: "Trevor James" <
trevor@kscable.com>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: Update on My VR-4...
Technically if the insurance is covering it
everything that was damaged in
this particular collision should be returned
to its original state (or
better than) before the collision. That means every
little thing...even if
it still technically works. If it could possibly fail
early or not operate
optimumly due to damage from the collision then it
should be replaced.
Good luck getting your baby back in good
health!
Trevor
- ----- Original Message -----
From: "Gross,
Erik" <
erik.gross@intel.com>
To: "Team3S
List (E-mail)" <
team3S@stealth-3000gt.st>
Sent:
Friday, April 05, 2002 12:35 PM
Subject: Team3S: Update on My
VR-4...
> Finally got some good news this week: my insurance IS
going to cover the
> damage from my spinning into a concrete wall at a
driver's school. I'm
> still talking with the appraiser and am in
the process of determining
> whether an estimate can be made without
towing it to a body shop or if I
> have to pay for some unmangling before
the full damage can be seen.
>
> I've also gotten the hood opened
(had to cut the latch out with a Sawzall)
> and discovered why I couldn't
pull the cable: the latch was jammed
against
> a bracket and
there was no way to physically make the latch release. I
now
>
have a 12" x 6" cold air duct in the front of my hood and a trophy on my
>
garage wall. :-)
>
> I also got the active aero dam and the front
splashguards off yesterday,
so
> I have a little better view of the
damage.
>
>
> Question for those who know:
> As I
suspected, the alternator/AC belt was severed (straight across the
> belt,
not shredded), and there are some body parts shoved up near the
>
alternator and AC compressor. I can spin the alternator pulley and it
has
a
> little resistance, but it feels like a bit much. There's
so much crap in
> the way that I can't tell for sure, but I'm pretty sure
something whacked
> the pulley at some point. *** Does this likely
mean that the alternator
is
> toast? What about the bracket that
holds it on the block? Still too
early
> to tell?
>
>
So here's what I know so far:
>
> * I don't think anything hit the
front turbo -
> it's close, but I think it's safe.
> * The loss of
all my power steering fluid was
> apparently due to the cooling line (in
front of the
> radiator) being punctured by the driver's fog light
>
bracket when it was pushed rearwards by the collision.
> * Some of my AC
hard lines around the receiver and
> compressor are kinked, but I don't
think punctured.
> * The alternator and/or AC compressor may be
damaged.
> * The AC and radiator fans work and the shrouds
> may be
ok.
> * The driver's intercooler is shaped like a typical
>
parallelogram now, rather than a rectangle.
> * The oil cooler has been
relocated, but I think it may
> be ok (yay for flexible lines!)
> *
I'm SO glad I didn't have hard IC piping - I'll have
> pictures soon of
how contorted those rubber lines are
> now - I think the metal pipes are
ok, as is the
> y-pipe.
> * I think I have a little frame sway in
the front, but
> it doesn't look that bad (so far).
> * The rear
suspension's condition is still unknown -
> the driver's wheel is
definitely bent, and I suspect
> the upper/lower control arms may be
slightly bent as
> well - is that what would typically bend from
the
> equivalent of hitting a 1.5" to 2" curb sideways
> at
1-2mph? [Please, oh please let the rear steering
> be ok...]
>
* The radiator is relocated and the upper mounting posts
> (plastic) are
broken off, but the radiator itself looks
> like it may be ok.
> *
The hood is screwed, the passenger's fender is bowed,
> the driver's
fender may be salvageable, the front
> fascia is wadded up, and the active
aero dam looks like
> somebody thought it was a Big Mac wrapper and
balled
> it up and threw it on the ground.
>
> Well, that's
all I know now... If it's possible, I want to repair the
>
car... assuming that's the way things head, I'll probably have a few
more
> questions in the coming weeks about what things technically don't
*need*
to
> be replaced, but "should" be replaced. And general
pointers for what to
> watch out for in the repair
process.
>
> Oh yeah, and per the rules and the request of the
admins, any
non-technical
> responses should be kept off-list
(private). That would include stuff
about
> insurance companies,
how to deal with appraisers, telling me what an #$% I
> am for marring
such a beautiful car, etc.
>
> --Erik
> '95 VR-4 with concrete
barrier mod
>
> "If it's metal or glass or plastic, and it's on the
front
> of a VR-4... I need a new
one."
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 05 Apr 2002 17:46:27
-0500
From:
romachka21@netscape.net
(Roman)
Subject: Team3S: Help with Front Lower Ball joints.
I have a
94 VR-4 no suspension mods. I went to get alignment done at GoodYear because I
noticed that the front tires were getting worn out on the inside very badly. I
bought Michelines and had them for a bout 1000k and the wear was noticible on
the inside of front tires.
Well GoodYear told me that my lower Ball
Joints are shot and they showed me how they know by rocking the wheel back and
forth from top to bottom and unfortunatly it has a good sum of play.
The
estemate that they gave is like $340 per lower balljoint and the control arm.
They said that I cannot replace JUST the lower balljoint.
If you can give
me some advise on what should I do I would realy appreciate it.
I am looking
for pricing and whether I can just replace the balljoints.
Also is there
anything better than OEM that I can replace the balljoints with. I had the car
for about 3 month after it came from AAM with an engine rebuild and I am trying
to set it up for autocrossing/ road events.
Thank you so much for
all of your help.
Roman G.
car still doesnot boost pass
6psi unless it is on the high way and cold air is blowing on it than it hauls
ass.... AAM said I need to replace my BOV and put in a boost
controller.
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 5 Apr 2002 19:45:57
-0500
From: "Furman, Russell" <
RFurman2@MassMutual.com>
Subject:
Team3S: Quick praise for fellow list member + ISC ?
Ok I have to thank
Damon Rochell, On Monday I posted I needed new rear
calipers for my 93
VR-4. He quickly responded that he had a pair for sale
(low mileage no
less) and for a good price no less. Anyway he sent them out
tuesday and
they were on my doorstep on thursday.
I just finished installing
them bleeding the brake system and going to take
them out for a test run
since I did a full brake job while i had the car in
the air.
Now
the tech portion of this email, could anyone tell me off hand if the ISC
is
the same part # from a 93 VR-4 to a 94 VR-4, trying to fix a high
idle
problem and still no luck thus far.
Also damon off list
could you resend me your paypal info I lost the
email...... I really
wanna settle up with you.
Russ F
CT
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 5 Apr 2002 19:01:51
-0600
From: "cody" <
overclck@satx.rr.com>
Subject: RE:
Team3S: Update on My VR-4...
The only problem with that Trevor, is I
think he wants to keep his
particular car... If the cost to repair
exceeds a certain percentage of
the overall value of the car, then they will
total it...
- -Cody
- -----Original Message-----
From:
owner-team3s@team3s.com
[mailto:owner-team3s@team3s.com] On Behalf
Of Trevor James
Sent: Friday,
April 05, 2002 4:24 PM
To: Gross, Erik; Team3S List (E-mail)
Subject: Re:
Team3S: Update on My VR-4...
Technically if the insurance is covering it
everything that was damaged
in
this particular collision should be
returned to its original state (or
better than) before the collision. That
means every little thing...even
if
it still technically works. If it could
possibly fail early or not
operate
optimumly due to damage from the
collision then it should be replaced.
Good luck getting your baby back in
good health!
Trevor
- ----- Original Message -----
From:
"Gross, Erik" <
erik.gross@intel.com>
To: "Team3S
List (E-mail)" <
team3S@stealth-3000gt.st>
Sent:
Friday, April 05, 2002 12:35 PM
Subject: Team3S: Update on My
VR-4...
> Finally got some good news this week: my insurance IS
going to cover
the
> damage from my spinning into a concrete wall at a
driver's school.
I'm
> still talking with the appraiser and am in the
process of determining
> whether an estimate can be made without towing it
to a body shop or if
I
> have to pay for some unmangling before the
full damage can be seen.
>
> I've also gotten the hood opened (had
to cut the latch out with a
Sawzall)
> and discovered why I couldn't
pull the cable: the latch was jammed
against
> a bracket and
there was no way to physically make the latch release.
I
now
> have
a 12" x 6" cold air duct in the front of my hood and a trophy on
my
>
garage wall. :-)
>
> I also got the active aero dam and the front
splashguards off
yesterday,
so
> I have a little better view of the
damage.
>
>
> Question for those who know:
> As I
suspected, the alternator/AC belt was severed (straight across
the
>
belt, not shredded), and there are some body parts shoved up near the
>
alternator and AC compressor. I can spin the alternator pulley and
it
has
a
> little resistance, but it feels like a bit much.
There's so much crap
in
> the way that I can't tell for sure, but I'm
pretty sure something
whacked
> the pulley at some point. ***
Does this likely mean that the
alternator
is
> toast? What
about the bracket that holds it on the block? Still too
early
>
to tell?
>
>
>
> So here's what I know so
far:
>
> * I don't think anything hit the front turbo -
> it's
close, but I think it's safe.
> * The loss of all my power steering fluid
was
> apparently due to the cooling line (in front of the
>
radiator) being punctured by the driver's fog light
> bracket when it was
pushed rearwards by the collision.
> * Some of my AC hard lines around the
receiver and
> compressor are kinked, but I don't think punctured.
>
* The alternator and/or AC compressor may be damaged.
> * The AC and
radiator fans work and the shrouds
> may be ok.
> * The driver's
intercooler is shaped like a typical
> parallelogram now, rather than a
rectangle.
> * The oil cooler has been relocated, but I think it
may
> be ok (yay for flexible lines!)
> * I'm SO glad I didn't have
hard IC piping - I'll have
> pictures soon of how contorted those rubber
lines are
> now - I think the metal pipes are ok, as is the
>
y-pipe.
> * I think I have a little frame sway in the front, but
>
it doesn't look that bad (so far).
> * The rear suspension's condition is
still unknown -
> the driver's wheel is definitely bent, and I
suspect
> the upper/lower control arms may be slightly bent as
>
well - is that what would typically bend from the
> equivalent of hitting
a 1.5" to 2" curb sideways
> at 1-2mph? [Please, oh please let the
rear steering
> be ok...]
> * The radiator is relocated and the
upper mounting posts
> (plastic) are broken off, but the radiator itself
looks
> like it may be ok.
> * The hood is screwed, the passenger's
fender is bowed,
> the driver's fender may be salvageable, the
front
> fascia is wadded up, and the active aero dam looks like
>
somebody thought it was a Big Mac wrapper and balled
> it up and threw it
on the ground.
>
> Well, that's all I know now... If
it's possible, I want to repair
the
> car... assuming that's the way
things head, I'll probably have a few
more
> questions in the coming
weeks about what things technically don't
*need*
to
> be replaced,
but "should" be replaced. And general pointers for what
to
>
watch out for in the repair process.
>
> Oh yeah, and per the rules
and the request of the admins, any
non-technical
> responses should be
kept off-list (private). That would include stuff
about
>
insurance companies, how to deal with appraisers, telling me what an
#$%
I
> am for marring such a beautiful car, etc.
>
>
--Erik
> '95 VR-4 with concrete barrier mod
>
> "If it's metal
or glass or plastic, and it's on the front
> of a
VR-4... I need a new one."
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 5 Apr 2002 20:40:47
-0500
From: "Zobel, Kurt" <
KURT.ZOBEL@ca.com>
Subject: RE:
Team3S: Rear view mirror (can't see)
I have one in my Celica racer.
It is very nice on the track, very easy to give a quick glance with out
straining or shifting position to see a good area behind you. Still a blind spot
behind drivers helmet, rear qtr. Don't think I would want one or need it on the
street.
It does not provide the side view that side mirrors do, which is
more important on the street.
Kurt
- -----Original
Message-----
From: BlackLight [mailto:BlackLight@Planetice.net]
Sent:
Friday, April 05, 2002 10:05 AM
To: 'Willis, Charles E.'; 'ek2mfg';
dustin_lenz@hotmail.com;
Team3S@stealth-3000gt.stSubject:
RE: Team3S: Rear view mirror (can't see)
My friend had one in his RX7,
works well, looks really dumb. For track
(road course) it might be nice, but
it's overkill IMHO for daily use.
Matt Nelson
1994 RT TT
Computer
Sales Consultant
Gateway Computers, Salem OR
Work Phone 503-587-7113
BlackLight@Planetice.Netwww.BlackLight.5u.com-
-----Original Message-----
From:
owner-team3s@team3s.com
[mailto:owner-team3s@team3s.com] On Behalf
Of Willis, Charles E.
Sent:
Friday, April 05, 2002 9:14 AM
To: 'ek2mfg';
dustin_lenz@hotmail.com;
Team3S@stealth-3000gt.stSubject:
RE: Team3S: Rear view mirror (can't see)
> Maybe one of
> those
multi mirrored deals fron JC Whitney?
[Willis, Charles E.] This brings
up a question I have been
wanting to ask. I'd like one of those
multi-mirrored deals for track
events. Anybody have a recommendation for or
against?
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
End of Team3S: 3000GT &
Stealth V1
#803
***************************************