Team3S: 3000GT & Stealth    Thursday, April 4 2002    Volume 01 : Number 802




----------------------------------------------------------------------

Date: Wed, 3 Apr 2002 17:30:48 -0800 (PST)
From: menalteed <menalteed@yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: Team3S: Air Conditioner unit ?

I have had luck before with M&S recycling, I even sent
stuff back  without any problem. They have a lot of
our type cars. Link follows.

peter 92 Stealt TT

http://us.f121.mail.yahoo.com/ym/login?.rand=7rmn5eq09fka9&login=1

***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***

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Date: Wed, 3 Apr 2002 19:31:41 -0600
From: "cody" <overclck@satx.rr.com>
Subject: RE: Team3S: Alarm question

If you know anything about relays, you should be able to find a wire
coming from the alarm brain that pulses +12 volts.  Run this to a relay,
and wire it to honk the horn, or flash the parking lights while its
pulsed.  I am not guaranteeing there is a +12v pulsed lead, but every
single aftermarket alarm has them for things like locking the doors,
flashing the lights, etc - so I would assume the factory alarm has to at
least have something like this...

- -Cody

- -----Original Message-----
From: owner-team3s@team3s.com [mailto:owner-team3s@team3s.com] On Behalf
Of M3000GTSL84@aol.com
Sent: Wednesday, April 03, 2002 5:53 PM
To: Team3S@stealth-3000gt.st
Subject: Team3S: Alarm question

The alarm on my 97 SL serves its purpose, but im sure some of of you
other
guys have noticed that there is no beep or light blink to let you kno if
you
locked or unlocked it (the lights inside blink, but its impossible to
see
them in the day). the locks have a distinctive click, but sometimes they
can
be hard to hear, even up close. anybody know how to wire the alarm so
that
the horn and/or lights go off after you lock and unlocked it?

- -mike

***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 3 Apr 2002 16:53:38 -0800
From: "Riyan Mynuddin" <riyan@hotpop.com>
Subject: Team3S: follow-up: rust bucket? worth my time? plz help!

BTW:

I've had my mechanic say this thing's a rust bucket, but one of the biggest
reason I'm putting this on the board is to see if anyone else has had rusty
stealth/3000gts. Also, I'm not sure if I really trust the mechanic because
he could be saying that because he doesn't want to assume liability for
lines, nuts, and bolts stripped and/or breaking if he began work on the car.
I've heard that many mechanic like the "cut and dry" jobs where nothing can
go wrong.

Also:

Regarding the fuel delivery system, it was the fuel pump RELAY, that had the
problem and incorrest resistance spec. there are various other harnesses and
contacts that lack continuity as well. I have the set of shop manuals for
the car, and I've found these problems using the diagnostic in the manual
for the fuel system. I am a little bit unsure as to the accuracy of the shop
manual though, because I found a mistake in a given resistance for the
electrical system. I'm worried that there may be other problems as well.
That why in the previous e-mail I mentioned that I really need someone that
knows the car, inside-out.

Thanks!

Riyan

***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 3 Apr 2002 16:36:08 -0800
From: "Riyan Mynuddin" <riyan@hotpop.com>
Subject: Team3S: rust bucket? worth my time? plz help!

Hey all-

You may have seen my previous posts regarding the electrical system of my
car, which I seem to have finally fixed. Now, it looks like I have a bad
fuel pump. However, when I do the diagnostic, I have a short between the
ground and + on the harness side of the fuel pump connector, and the
resistance is off in the fuel resistor pack. The fuel pump will not run on
jumped power either. So i've named three vital fuel components here that are
most likely bad. Also, the fuel lines that go to the fuel pump are rusted
and peeling. Once I remove the lines, they will crack and need to be
replaced. Also, if the short in the wires is actually a problem with a wire
harness, that could turn into a tedious task which could involve taking a
great deal of my car apart. The whole area around the fuel pump is so rusty
that I've been told by my local mechanic "please, don't spend money on this
car. it's a rust bucket".

My car is a 93 stealth rt tt. It seemed to be running very well (powerful,
quick start, no check engine light, etc....) for months until it stopped on
the one unfortunate day. However, maybe I'm just deceiving myself, and it
was about to fall apart all along. I live in Sunnyvale (about 40 miles south
of San Francisco downtown). I am interested in:

1) any advice as to whether I should keep this car or not

2) anyone that would pay a decent amount to buy it as is. engine is decent.
interior is pristine. everything on the bottom of the car including the fuel
delivery system seems to be rusty. the brake rotors are rusty as well.

3) any nearby mechanics that would be willing to help me fix the car. I
absolutely love this car! But I'd hate to take this to the dealer. I'm sure
they'd gladly take my money until I don't have any left.

on that note, I am open to anyone that is interested in buying the car as a
whole and since I prefer to keep it, I'd be even more interested in a
mechanic who knows the ins and outs of this car. please don't hesitate to
contact me.

my contact info:

Riyan Mynuddin (that's ree-on my-noo-deen) :)
PO BOX 2301
Cupertino, CA 95015

e-mail: riyan@hotpop.com
business cell: (408) 593-6959


Thank you all in advance for your help.

Riyan

***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 3 Apr 2002 19:53:25 -0600
From: "cody" <overclck@satx.rr.com>
Subject: RE: Team3S: follow-up: rust bucket? worth my time? plz help!

I would say less than average rust for whatever year car...  Of course,
road conditions do play a part...  I had only surface rust under my car,
and that was limited to suspension pieces, the rear subframe, and the
struts...  Other than the exhaust and certain engine pieces, you
shouldn't run into any pieces that are rust frozen in place (maybe the
brake rotors)...  Every mechanic likes working on a brand new car,
without a touch of dust, oil, road grime, etc... It just doesn't
happen...  At Discount Tire, I love nothing more than to setup some nice
20" wheels and tires that are brand new out of the box....   But, that's
a small percentage of business, and the same applies for mechanics...

- -Cody

- -----Original Message-----
From: owner-team3s@team3s.com [mailto:owner-team3s@team3s.com] On Behalf
Of Riyan Mynuddin
Sent: Wednesday, April 03, 2002 6:54 PM
To: Team3S
Subject: Team3S: follow-up: rust bucket? worth my time? plz help!

BTW:

I've had my mechanic say this thing's a rust bucket, but one of the
biggest
reason I'm putting this on the board is to see if anyone else has had
rusty
stealth/3000gts. Also, I'm not sure if I really trust the mechanic
because
he could be saying that because he doesn't want to assume liability for
lines, nuts, and bolts stripped and/or breaking if he began work on the
car.
I've heard that many mechanic like the "cut and dry" jobs where nothing
can
go wrong.

Also:

Regarding the fuel delivery system, it was the fuel pump RELAY, that had
the
problem and incorrest resistance spec. there are various other harnesses
and
contacts that lack continuity as well. I have the set of shop manuals
for
the car, and I've found these problems using the diagnostic in the
manual
for the fuel system. I am a little bit unsure as to the accuracy of the
shop
manual though, because I found a mistake in a given resistance for the
electrical system. I'm worried that there may be other problems as well.
That why in the previous e-mail I mentioned that I really need someone
that
knows the car, inside-out.

Thanks!

Riyan

***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 04 Apr 2002 01:54:53 +0000
From: apedenko@attbi.com
Subject: RE: Team3S: Bad bearings?

They messed up the 4 wheel alignment...
Any chance your shop is by Chicago?

It's so #$%$ hard to find somebody that knows what
they're doing, it's not even funny.

  Alex
> Exactly what part did they mess up???  Balancing is such a simple and
> straightforward job...  Anyone can be taught how to do it in 5 minutes
> time...
>
> 10 weights = 2.5 ounces...  That's a little over average for a
> wheel/tire, especially a low profile tire, but not unheard of...
> Anything over that, and sometimes 2.5 ounces, we demount, spin the tire
> 180 degrees, and try again.  9 times out of 10, we get it to within an
> ounce on the second try... Of course, we are as close to perfectionists
> at our shop as you're gonna get in the retail tire industry... 
>
> Excessive tracking = bad roads, low profile tires, improperly inflated
> tires, and bad alignment
>
> Warped rotors have no effect on driving so long as you aren't using the
> brakes.  Vibration can go away at certain speeds.. I've seen it happen,
> and I know theres a physics explanation for why, I just can't recall
> what it is exactly... 
>
> One other thing...  AFAIK, Discount Tire is the only chain retail store
> to torque every single car/every single lug by hand.  This can be a HUGE
> factor and can cause vibration.  Also, simply cleaning the hub mounting
> surfaces, can have large effects on vibration.  If you wish, have the
> rotors turned, and while they are doing that, clean the area where they
> contact the hub.  This can also be a source of vibration that is harder
> to detect... 
>
> A warped rotor hat could cause vibration, but I don't even know if
> that's possible...
>
> -Cody
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-team3s@team3s.com [mailto:owner-team3s@team3s.com] On Behalf
> Of apedenko@attbi.com
> Sent: Wednesday, April 03, 2002 11:50 AM
> To: Willis, Charles E.
> Cc: team3s@team3s.com
> Subject: RE: Team3S: Bad bearings?
>
> The car has 72K. The balancing was done by a firestone
> shop that also did my alignment. They messed up the
> first time, but re-did it for free and i think they did
> it right. I had them send the wheels out to be
> straightened, so they mounted and balanced them when
> they got them back. What bothers me a little is the
> amount of weights in the wheels - there's a good 10
> weights in each wheel (mounted on the inside).
>
> Also the car gets excessive tracking - I attributed it
> to bad roads, but could this be it?
>
> One more detail - hwy driving ~ 80mph sometimes the
> vibration just goes away?
>
> How much can really warped rotors contribute to all of
> this?
>
> Alex.
> > I think the dealers diagnose this by excessive runout, that's wobble
> when
> > the wheel is turned, but I don't have a runout tool.  How many miles
> on the
> > car?  In my experience the wheel bearings fail over time more often
> than
> > from a single incident.  I think the front ones in our cars last about
> 80K
> > miles.  I've replaced all four bearings on my sons '93 (when it was
> about
> > 80K miles),the front ones on my '93 (maybe 70K miles) and the front
> ones on
> > my '94 (well, I have one new one in the garage) at about 74K.
> >
> > A bad wheel bearing can do all the stuff you mentioned.  Who is
> balancing
> > your wheels and tires?
> >
> > >   How would I go about diagnosing a bad wheel bearing?

***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 3 Apr 2002 19:56:54 -0600
From: "cody" <overclck@satx.rr.com>
Subject: RE: Team3S: follow-up: rust bucket? worth my time? plz help!

Hate to reply to myself, but compare a 93 3/S to a '93 anything else
from the same area of the country...  Unless the owner of either one was
meticulous at cleaning every single little nook and cranny, you will
have rust.. it is inevitable...  Hell, I know of two Jeep Wranglers,
2000 and a 2001 with more rust on them than my car...  They were driven
on South Padre Island, which is in the gulf, but then again, my car went
through Missouri winters which meant salted roads, and then two years on
the island... 

- -Cody

- -----Original Message-----
From: owner-team3s@team3s.com [mailto:owner-team3s@team3s.com] On Behalf
Of cody
Sent: Wednesday, April 03, 2002 7:53 PM
To: 'Riyan Mynuddin'; 'Team3S'
Subject: RE: Team3S: follow-up: rust bucket? worth my time? plz help!

I would say less than average rust for whatever year car...  Of course,
road conditions do play a part...  I had only surface rust under my car,
and that was limited to suspension pieces, the rear subframe, and the
struts...  Other than the exhaust and certain engine pieces, you
shouldn't run into any pieces that are rust frozen in place (maybe the
brake rotors)...  Every mechanic likes working on a brand new car,
without a touch of dust, oil, road grime, etc... It just doesn't
happen...  At Discount Tire, I love nothing more than to setup some nice
20" wheels and tires that are brand new out of the box....   But, that's
a small percentage of business, and the same applies for mechanics...

- -Cody

***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 03 Apr 2002 21:16:20 -0600
From: "merritt@cedar-rapids.net" <merritt@cedar-rapids.net>
Subject: RE: Team3S: Bad bearings?

>
>One other thing...  AFAIK, Discount Tire is the only chain retail store
>to torque every single car/every single lug by hand.  This can be a HUGE
>factor and can cause vibration. 

I just had 8 tires swapped at Tires Plus. They dismounted 8 old tires, put the Michelin Pilots on my old race wheels and new Yoko 032R race tires on the stock chromies (chromies are a half-inch wider than the race wheels). They hand-torqued every one of the four that went on the car, balanced all eight tires, and charged me $60. They want me to come back after three days to have the wheels retorqued for free.

Of course, I've bought billions of dollars worth of tires at this store, and they cut me a deal because they were race tires. I've never had a problem with Tires Plus.

In fact, I went to them once with an Internet price on Michelin Pilots and asked if they could match the price. They said no, they couldn't meet that price. Their price was LOWER! So now I buy race tires on the Internet and street tires from Tires Plus.

Rich/slow old poop
94 VR4

***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***

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Date: Wed, 3 Apr 2002 22:59:21 -0500
From: "Dennis and Anita Moore" <stealth@quixnet.net>
Subject: Team3S: Water in the Rear Deck Lid

Hi All,

Everytime my car gets reasonably wet, when I raise the trunk lid I get water
running out from under the plastic liner on the interior.  Is this normal?
If not, how do folks think the water is getting in, and how do I stop it?
I've checked for leak paths, don't see anything obvious.  Thanks.

Dennis Moore
93 Stealth ES

***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 3 Apr 2002 23:06:24 -0500
From: "Darren Schilberg" <dschilberg@pobox.com>
Subject: RE: Team3S: Water in the Rear Deck Lid

Dennis,

If you have a wing on the car (like the 3000GT) then it could be loose
back there and allowing water above the plastic and below the metal
trunk lid.

For your Stealth owners it might be something where your wing (if any)
connects to the car.  Not sure.  Is this correct?  It is above the
plastic inside trunk lining but below the metal trunk lid?

- --Flash!
1995 VR-4

- -----Original Message-----
From: Dennis and Anita Moore
Sent: Wednesday, April 03, 2002 22:59
To: team3s@team3s.com
Subject: Team3S: Water in the Rear Deck Lid

Everytime my car gets reasonably wet, when I raise the trunk lid I get
water
running out from under the plastic liner on the interior.  Is this
normal?
If not, how do folks think the water is getting in, and how do I stop
it?
I've checked for leak paths, don't see anything obvious.  Thanks.

***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 03 Apr 2002 21:11:10 -0800
From: Dean Benz <dbenz@usa.net>
Subject: Re: [RE: Team3S: The Dyna-Batt and other SLA batteries]

OK, I'm home now, so I can answer my own question from a Solo II perspective
at least. No box required for gel cells, but you still have to securely attach
them somehow.

Any thoughts on the regulator?

Quote from SCCA National Solo 2002 rule book section 3.3.3 Safety Inspection,
subsection O. (Including the typo of call, not cell)

Any wet-call battery moved from the manufacturer's original location shall be
in a non-conductive marine-type containerequivelent, and the hot terminal
shall be insulated. All batteries (on-board power supplies)shall be  attached
securely to the frame or chassis structure independant of the marine type
container. NOTE: This will allow the use of gel cell batteries without a
non-conductive marine type container where aplicable.

"Darren Schilberg" <dschilberg@pobox.com> wrote:
> I thought even sealed batteries required a battery box when in another
> location other than the engine bay.  I don't know if this was a rule
> change though.
>
> Here is a quote from the 2001 SCCA rulebook:
>    Section 14.9.C (Street Prepared Category)
>       Relocation of the battery or batteries is permitted but not
>       into the passenger compartment.  If the battery is relocated
>       and the original battery tray can be removed by simply unbolting
>       it, the tray may be removed, or relocated with the battery. 
>       Holes may be drilled for mounting or passage of cables.  Longer
>       cables may be substituted to permit relocation.  The number of
>       battery or batteries may not be changed from stock.  The area
>       behind the rearmost seat is not considered to be within the
>       passenger compartment.
>
> Summary:
> - Appears you can not locate a battery anywhere else besides the trunk
> or engine.
> - You can not go from one battery stock to two Dyna Batt batteries as
> was suggested by someone but have to maintain the same number as stock.
>
> --Flash!
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Dean Benz
> Sent: Wednesday, April 03, 2002 17:37

> Do the sanctioning bodies recognize the SLAs as "sealed" and not require
> battery boxes? Anybody seen a SCCA or NASA rule or ruling on this? (My
> '02 Solo rule book is at home, or I would look.)
>
> It would be nice not to have to use up the space for an unsealed box
> around sealed battery.

Dean Benz
dbenz@usa.net

***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 3 Apr 2002 23:30:55 -0600
From: "Jannusch, Matt" <mjannusch@marketwatch.com>
Subject: RE: Team3S: Water in the Rear Deck Lid

> Everytime my car gets reasonably wet, when I raise
> the trunk lid I get water running out from under the
> plastic liner on the interior.

I don't have a coupe to look at, but my Eclipse had a hole on each side of
the hatch outside of the rubber seal on the body that had a tube connected
on it that drained the water out under the body.  If your car has those
holes, take the trim panel off and make sure the little hose is still
attached to the hole connector.  If it comes off, it'll dump the water in
the trunk.

- -Matt
'95 3000GT Spyder VR4

***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 04 Apr 2002 14:15:06 -0000
From: "Jeff Lucius" <jlucius@stealth316.com>
Subject: Re: Team3S: Air Conditioner unit ?

I list 9 used parts yards that specialize in Mitsu parts plus 5 online sources
on the Garage Page at my web site. The Team3S site also lists sources, even
New Castle Auto Wrecking, where I may be the only Team3S member to have
purchased parts from them the one time they had a Stealth. :)

You take your chances of course with a used AC compressor. Consider buying a
new one from one of the discount Mitsu dealers I list on the same web page.

Ebay is also a source, but let the buyer beware! I bought an AC compressor
from a fellow there that claimed it was new and never used (his exact words).
You can see pictures of this *used* compressor on my web page below (I never
paid for it and am waiting for him to arrange pickup). The guy claimed to
really think this thing was new! Hmmm, honestly ignorant? :0

Tips for identifying a used A/C compressor:
http://www.stealth316.com/2-ac-compr-used.htm

Jeff Lucius, http://www.stealth316.com/

- ----- Original Message -----
From: "Jeff & Debby Kelley" <spiritliving@canby.com>
To: "team3s" <Team3S@Stealth-3000GT.st>
Sent: Wednesday, April 03, 2002 5:51 PM
Subject: Team3S: Air Conditioner unit ?

I'm knew to this!  Any idea where I can get an air conditioner
Compressor assembly for a 93 Stealth SOHC? <snip>

***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***

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Date: Thu, 04 Apr 2002 08:18:48 -0600
From: "merritt@cedar-rapids.net" <merritt@cedar-rapids.net>
Subject: Re: Team3S: Air Conditioner unit ?

The problem with buying any used a/c component is that if it has not been kept pressurized with coolant intact, it quickly corrodes internally -- in a matter of days, if not hours. So, if you buy a used anything, make sure it comes off a car with an intact system. Of course, once the first component comes off, the rest of the system quickly becomes useless. It may be that the compressor Jeff bought (see below) actually was never used. But if had been compromised, it wouldn't last long.
Rich/slow old poop

> I bought an AC compressor
>from a fellow there that claimed it was new and never used (his exact words).
>You can see pictures of this *used* compressor on my web page below (I never
>paid for it and am waiting for him to arrange pickup). The guy claimed to
>really think this thing was new! Hmmm, honestly ignorant? :0

***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 04 Apr 2002 18:42:10 +0200
From: Roger Gerl <roger.gerl@bluewin.ch>
Subject: Re: Team3S: anyone ever used a jetchip ECU Upgrade

Yeah, send the ECU to JET and then let us know what they did !

The Mitsu ECU do not have an external program and therefore the CPU must be
removed and a daughterboard must be installed then. On the board the COU
find its new place with one or two EPROMs holding the program.

We will see what JET is doing ;-)

Roger
93'3000GT TT
www.rtec.ch

At 19:19 03.04.2002 -0500, Anthony Melillo wrote:
>I heard about a company called Jet Performance Products while watching the
>Hot Rod show on Speed TV.
>
>They do offer an ECU upgrade for our cars and I was wondering if anyone
>has ever dealt with them, or know if their products are good
>or not ?
>
>Any other ECU recommendations would be appreciated.  I received a spare
>ECU as a gift a few years ago, and I am going to have that
>one upgraded while I keep the stock on as a backup just in case.
>
>Thanks
>
>Anthony Melillo
>1997 VR-4, Firestorm Red
>http://mywebpages.comcast.net/anthonymelillo3/3000gt.htm

***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 4 Apr 2002 08:51:31 -0800 (PST)
From: Geoff Mohler <gemohler@www.speedtoys.com>
Subject: Re: Team3S: anyone ever used a jetchip ECU Upgrade

The Supra people have already..painfully..found out.

Slightly different fuel map, timing map, and moved fuel cut.

On the 3S, I imagine they add in a higher boost setting for the stock
controller valve.


So..you spend all this cash, and have 0 adjustability, pretty much back
where you started.

On Thu, 4 Apr 2002, Roger Gerl wrote:

> Yeah, send the ECU to JET and then let us know what they did !
>
> The Mitsu ECU do not have an external program and therefore the CPU must be
> removed and a daughterboard must be installed then. On the board the COU
> find its new place with one or two EPROMs holding the program.
>
> We will see what JET is doing ;-)
>
> Roger
> 93'3000GT TT
> www.rtec.ch
>
>
> At 19:19 03.04.2002 -0500, Anthony Melillo wrote:
> >I heard about a company called Jet Performance Products while watching the
> >Hot Rod show on Speed TV.
> >
> >They do offer an ECU upgrade for our cars and I was wondering if anyone
> >has ever dealt with them, or know if their products are good
> >or not ?
> >
> >Any other ECU recommendations would be appreciated.  I received a spare
> >ECU as a gift a few years ago, and I am going to have that
> >one upgraded while I keep the stock on as a backup just in case.
> >
> >Thanks
> >
> >Anthony Melillo
> >1997 VR-4, Firestorm Red
> >http://mywebpages.comcast.net/anthonymelillo3/3000gt.htm

- ---
Geoff Mohler

***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 4 Apr 2002 08:56:02 -0800
From: "tri" <thn@dexray.com>
Subject: Re: Team3S: Dynamic racing products?

my friend has one on his 96 SL and he tells me- the sound is nice at WOT. it
may give 1-2 HP which you can't really feel. more for looks than
anything....

it might give better HP numbers to an SOHC, but i don't really know. just a
thought.
since dn performance raised their price for their CAI to 200, i've been less
inclined to buy one myself. www.3sxperformance.com also sells them. it's the
same product as the dn pipe and a bit cheaper (about $5). it's kinda strange
why the manfacturer wouldn't offer cheaper prices than it's distributor. i'm
sure it must cost a lot less to make and they're just gouging us.

best regards,
tri
- ----- Original Message -----
From: <M3000GTSL84@aol.com>
To: <Team3S@stealth-3000gt.st>
Sent: Wednesday, April 03, 2002 4:24 PM
Subject: Team3S: Dynamic racing products?

> The only metal intake pipe i can for my N/A find online is from Dynamic
> racing.  has anybody perfomed this mod, and found it useful in giving
sound
> and response? is the quality of it good as well? if anybody has another
place
> that makes N/A intake pipes please let me kno, thanx
>
> -mike
> 97 SL red

***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 4 Apr 2002 09:33:37 -0800
From: "Geddes, Brian J" <brian.j.geddes@intel.com>
Subject: Team3S: Intermittent antenna actuation

All -

My power antenna has started working only intermittently, both up and down.
It seems somewhat random, and has been stuck in the up position for the last
day.    When I turn off the radio I can hear the relay click, but the
antenna doesn't move.  I just dropped in a new antenna a year ago.  Could it
have been fouled up already? (I live in a rainy western WA)  I'd hate to
replace the antenna motor if I don't have to - that sucker's expensive!!

Any ideas?

Thanks,
- - Brian

***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 04 Apr 2002 12:39:10 -0800
From: Damon Rachell <damonr@mefas.com>
Subject: Team3S: Porterfield R4 for 1st gen Turbo...

i've got a set of brand new Porterfield R4 pads for the fronts of a 1st
gen TT.  Anyone interested, let me know.  New they're $150.  I'll take $130.

Lemme know.
Damon
damonr@mefas.com

***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 4 Apr 2002 12:36:54 -0800
From: "Riyan Mynuddin" <riyan@hotpop.com>
Subject: RE: Team3S: rust bucket? worth my time? plz help! [unofficial asking price]

shannon/team3s-

I would hate to part with the car, but discontinued sports cars are
expensive toys, and I'm going back to school now. Although I can't make
anything official yet, blue book rates my car at $7,260 (in fair condition,
with current mileage). However, it doesn't run. I estimate the current
repair to cost about $1000. We can deduct that. I'm not sure how much the
rust reduces the value, but to be reasonable I'd say around 25%. 25% of 7260
is 1815. Here's an unofficial figure:

+$7260 fair market value
- -$1000 fuel delivery system repair
- -$1815 rust devaluation

- -----------------------
=$4445 true market value

I would probably shoot for that, give or take 500 dollars. What do you
think?

Riyan
black 93 rt tt
- ----------------------->

- -----Original Message-----
From: SHANNON [mailto:shannon@oxfordlearning.com]
Sent: Thursday, April 04, 2002 8:06 AM
To: Riyan Mynuddin
Subject: Re: Team3S: rust bucket? worth my time? plz help!

Riyan,

I've had a 92 RT TT for four years now, you are right, wonderful car!!!
It's got great power, handles well, is very comfortable and stylish and
looks great!!

My only complaint is that if something goes on this thing, it's a small
fortune.  By the sounds of it you're in my boat, not much spare money
kicking around.  That alone, is reason to think twice about owning this car,
with your severe rust issue, I would definetely consider other options.

There are a lot of high-tech, high-priced components on this car and they
all have to run tip top so they don't damage other even more expensive
components.  Having a rust problem only adds to the potential problems that
could occur, and with rust issues, probably keep occurring.

If you would have asked me six months ago I would have told everyone to buy
this car, but now I would only recommend a new one and keep it for 4-5 years
and get rid of it (sadly, this is IMPOSSIBLE now)

It's sad to say because that car is just a dream for me, but it quickly can
become a nightmare.

If you sell it what are you hoping to get for it?

Best of luck,

SHannon

> From: "Riyan Mynuddin" <riyan@hotpop.com>
> Date: Wed, 3 Apr 2002 16:36:08 -0800
> To: "Team3S" <Team3S@stealth-3000gt.st>
> Subject: Team3S: rust bucket? worth my time? plz help!
>
> Hey all-
>
> You may have seen my previous posts regarding the electrical system of my
> car, which I seem to have finally fixed. Now, it looks like I have a bad
> fuel pump. However, when I do the diagnostic, I have a short between the
> ground and + on the harness side of the fuel pump connector, and the
> resistance is off in the fuel resistor pack. The fuel pump will not run on
> jumped power either. So i've named three vital fuel components here that
are
> most likely bad. Also, the fuel lines that go to the fuel pump are rusted
> and peeling. Once I remove the lines, they will crack and need to be
> replaced. Also, if the short in the wires is actually a problem with a
wire
> harness, that could turn into a tedious task which could involve taking a
> great deal of my car apart. The whole area around the fuel pump is so
rusty
> that I've been told by my local mechanic "please, don't spend money on
this
> car. it's a rust bucket".
>
> My car is a 93 stealth rt tt. It seemed to be running very well (powerful,
> quick start, no check engine light, etc....) for months until it stopped
on
> the one unfortunate day. However, maybe I'm just deceiving myself, and it
> was about to fall apart all along. I live in Sunnyvale (about 40 miles
south
> of San Francisco downtown). I am interested in:
>
> 1) any advice as to whether I should keep this car or not
>
> 2) anyone that would pay a decent amount to buy it as is. engine is
decent.
> interior is pristine. everything on the bottom of the car including the
fuel
> delivery system seems to be rusty. the brake rotors are rusty as well.
>
> 3) any nearby mechanics that would be willing to help me fix the car. I
> absolutely love this car! But I'd hate to take this to the dealer. I'm
sure
> they'd gladly take my money until I don't have any left.
>
> on that note, I am open to anyone that is interested in buying the car as
a
> whole and since I prefer to keep it, I'd be even more interested in a
> mechanic who knows the ins and outs of this car. please don't hesitate to
> contact me.
>
> my contact info:
>
> Riyan Mynuddin (that's ree-on my-noo-deen) :)
> PO BOX 2301
> Cupertino, CA 95015
>
> e-mail: riyan@hotpop.com
> business cell: (408) 593-6959
>
>
> Thank you all in advance for your help.
>
> Riyan

***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 04 Apr 2002 13:49:09 -0700
From: Wayne <whietala@prodigy.net>
Subject: Re: Team3S: anyone ever used a jetchip ECU Upgrade

I worked for a major automotive electronics company for many years. During
that time we dyno tested numerous competitors products, especially Jet,
since they were our biggest competition.

Bottom line.....VERY FEW products Jet sells do anything for the
performance. In fact, about half the products we tested rendered a LOWER HP
number than stock

DON'T WASTE YOUR MONEY

***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 04 Apr 2002 19:58:02 +0000
From: "Andrei Kryjevski" <abk_4@hotmail.com>
Subject: Team3S: oil pressure relief valve location

Hello:

I want to thank everybody who replied to my questions about the oil pressure
light on at idle.

I have a couple of follow up questions.

Does anybody know where the OIL PRESSURE RELIEF VALVE is located on a 92
Stealth R/T ? May it be accessed/services from outside or I have to pull the
oil pan etc? Can't find it in the manual.

Somebody suggested that it may be stuck in the open position and be a cause
of low oil pressure at idle. Does it make sense to anyone?

There is a TSB on 1991 3000GT regarding the oil pressure
relief valve? What's all this is about? It does not say there...

Finally, there are two oil pressure sensor units. let's say, the smaller one
and the bigger one. Which one is for the warning light
and which one is for the gauge?

Thank you.

Andrei Kryjevski.

***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 4 Apr 2002 13:24:45 -0800
From: "Riyan Mynuddin" <riyan@hotpop.com>
Subject: RE: Team3S: follow-up: rust bucket? worth my time? plz help!

cody/team3s-

Thanks for the info. I am starting to get more confident that there is still
a chance in the car, and the mechanic just didn't want to work on my car
because he didn't want to assume liability for fixing brittle
nuts/bolts/parts that break when he is doing the repair. It's a fine line,
because on one hand, it is "technically" the mechanic's fault when he breaks
that kind of stuff. Maybe he would be more willing to work with me if I sign
a release stating that he's not liable for things that break on the way, but
then we're on the opposite side of the spectrum, because if such a release
is in effect then he wouldn't even be careful and cautious while he's
working. He'd just plow right in there, trigger happy, since he'd be making
margin off anything he broke as well as the actual repair!! talk about a
nice business huh? However, that's not the only problem. I've also heard
from many places that this is quite an expensive car to maintain. It's a
dilemma, because I do have other cars, but they are company cars. They're
conservative and boring. I've got a 92 chevy astro LT and a 90 infiniti m30.
The stealth is the only car that I actually like. I have decided to take
detailed pictures of the car and make a web site which would serve as a
great tool for:

1) local mechanics that want to help me and make some $$$ while they're at
it
2) potential buyers
3) anyone that wants to give additional advice as to whether I should keep
the thing or not

I will publish this website hopefully within the next 48 hours. In the mean
time I will continue working on the car by myself. We'll see where this
takes me.

Riyan
black 93 stealth rt tt

- -----Original Message-----
From: owner-team3s@team3s.com [mailto:owner-team3s@team3s.com]On Behalf
Of cody
Sent: Wednesday, April 03, 2002 5:53 PM
To: 'Riyan Mynuddin'; 'Team3S'
Subject: RE: Team3S: follow-up: rust bucket? worth my time? plz help!

I would say less than average rust for whatever year car...  Of course,
road conditions do play a part...  I had only surface rust under my car,
and that was limited to suspension pieces, the rear subframe, and the
struts...  Other than the exhaust and certain engine pieces, you
shouldn't run into any pieces that are rust frozen in place (maybe the
brake rotors)...  Every mechanic likes working on a brand new car,
without a touch of dust, oil, road grime, etc... It just doesn't
happen...  At Discount Tire, I love nothing more than to setup some nice
20" wheels and tires that are brand new out of the box....   But, that's
a small percentage of business, and the same applies for mechanics...

- -Cody

- -----Original Message-----
From: owner-team3s@team3s.com [mailto:owner-team3s@team3s.com] On Behalf
Of Riyan Mynuddin
Sent: Wednesday, April 03, 2002 6:54 PM
To: Team3S
Subject: Team3S: follow-up: rust bucket? worth my time? plz help!

BTW:

I've had my mechanic say this thing's a rust bucket, but one of the
biggest
reason I'm putting this on the board is to see if anyone else has had
rusty
stealth/3000gts. Also, I'm not sure if I really trust the mechanic
because
he could be saying that because he doesn't want to assume liability for
lines, nuts, and bolts stripped and/or breaking if he began work on the
car.
I've heard that many mechanic like the "cut and dry" jobs where nothing
can
go wrong.

Also:

Regarding the fuel delivery system, it was the fuel pump RELAY, that had
the
problem and incorrest resistance spec. there are various other harnesses
and
contacts that lack continuity as well. I have the set of shop manuals
for
the car, and I've found these problems using the diagnostic in the
manual
for the fuel system. I am a little bit unsure as to the accuracy of the
shop
manual though, because I found a mistake in a given resistance for the
electrical system. I'm worried that there may be other problems as well.
That why in the previous e-mail I mentioned that I really need someone
that
knows the car, inside-out.

Thanks!

Riyan

***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 4 Apr 2002 13:31:17 -0800
From: "Riyan Mynuddin" <riyan@hotpop.com>
Subject: RE: Team3S: Water in the Rear Deck Lid

happens to me all the time. I believe epinions.com did a review on the
stealth warning buyers about it. well, until you figure it out...

"have that towel ready!"

:)

Riyan

93 stealth rt tt

- -----Original Message-----
From: owner-team3s@team3s.com [mailto:owner-team3s@team3s.com]On Behalf
Of Dennis and Anita Moore
Sent: Wednesday, April 03, 2002 7:59 PM
To: team3s@team3s.com
Subject: Team3S: Water in the Rear Deck Lid

Hi All,

Everytime my car gets reasonably wet, when I raise the trunk lid I get water
running out from under the plastic liner on the interior.  Is this normal?
If not, how do folks think the water is getting in, and how do I stop it?
I've checked for leak paths, don't see anything obvious.  Thanks.

Dennis Moore
93 Stealth ES

***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 04 Apr 2002 17:00:10 -0500
From: Anthony Melillo <anthonymelillo3@comcast.net>
Subject: Team3S: suggestions needed on colored wipers

I am looking to replace my stock black wipers with something a little more sporty and colorful, but haven't been able to come up
with much.

I found on place that has them on eBay, but after weeks of trying, I have yet to get an answer from them to see of they are the
correct sizes, and most importantly will their wiper fit the rear ?

If anyone knows of a better place, maybe one that is a little more reliable, I would greatly appreciate it.

Thanks
Anthony Melillo

***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 4 Apr 2002 14:02:50 -0800
From: "ek2mfg" <ek2mfg@foxinternet.com>
Subject: RE: Team3S: Water in the Rear Deck Lid

It is really only two things it could be....a leaking seal or the
spoiler holes for where it mounts. To see which one it is get a
buddie to sit in the back and use the hose to spray water in the
seems.....if your leak shows up then fix it accordingly...if it is
your spoiler them you can do a few things to seal it up..rubber
washers or even a good window sealer around where the mounting
hardware comes through the sheet metal...I would guess your spoiler
is leaking since it is comming out of your hatchback trim.

just a thought........

It only has 6 holes not counting the wiper arm....I would bet you
have a trace of surface rust around the leaking hole.

bobk.
93 R/T NA
99 front end conversion
6 holes filled with fiberglass and 10 new holes for the wing :)

- ---- Original Message ----
From: riyan@hotpop.com
To: Team3S@stealth-3000gt.st, stealth@quixnet.net
Subject: RE: Team3S: Water in the Rear Deck Lid
Date: Thu, 4 Apr 2002 13:31:17 -0800

>happens to me all the time. I believe epinions.com did a review on
>the
>stealth warning buyers about it. well, until you figure it out...
>
>"have that towel ready!"
>
>:)
>
>Riyan
>
>93 stealth rt tt
>
>-----Original Message-----
>From: owner-team3s@team3s.com [mailto:owner-team3s@team3s.com]On
>Behalf
>Of Dennis and Anita Moore
>Sent: Wednesday, April 03, 2002 7:59 PM
>To: team3s@team3s.com
>Subject: Team3S: Water in the Rear Deck Lid
>
>Hi All,
>
>Everytime my car gets reasonably wet, when I raise the trunk lid I
>get water
>running out from under the plastic liner on the interior.  Is this
>normal?
>If not, how do folks think the water is getting in, and how do I
>stop it?
>I've checked for leak paths, don't see anything obvious.  Thanks.
>
>Dennis Moore
>93 Stealth ES

***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 4 Apr 2002 14:07:19 -0800
From: "Riyan Mynuddin" <riyan@hotpop.com>
Subject: RE: Team3S: oil pressure relief valve location

team3s/andrei

Looks like you've got a tough one. I combed through both my 1993 stealth FSM
and CAPS and the closest thing I found was something called an oil pressure
switch. This is from page 9-34 - engine assembly (DOHC) removal and
installation. Part# MD138993 / PNC # 04226 in the CAPS program. I'll keep my
eyes peeled for it as I'm fixing my car though.

Riyan
93 stealth rt tt

- -----Original Message-----
From: owner-team3s@team3s.com [mailto:owner-team3s@team3s.com]On Behalf
Of Andrei Kryjevski
Sent: Thursday, April 04, 2002 11:58 AM
To: abk_4@hotmail.com
Cc: Team3S@stealth-3000gt.st
Subject: Team3S: oil pressure relief valve location

Hello:

I want to thank everybody who replied to my questions about the oil pressure
light on at idle.

I have a couple of follow up questions.

Does anybody know where the OIL PRESSURE RELIEF VALVE is located on a 92
Stealth R/T ? May it be accessed/services from outside or I have to pull the
oil pan etc? Can't find it in the manual.

Somebody suggested that it may be stuck in the open position and be a cause
of low oil pressure at idle. Does it make sense to anyone?

There is a TSB on 1991 3000GT regarding the oil pressure
relief valve? What's all this is about? It does not say there...

Finally, there are two oil pressure sensor units. let's say, the smaller one
and the bigger one. Which one is for the warning light
and which one is for the gauge?

Thank you.

Andrei Kryjevski.

***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 04 Apr 2002 17:47:44 -0500
From: Joe Gonsowski <twinturbo@comcast.net>
Subject: Re: Team3S: oil pressure relief valve location

The relief valve is located in the oil pump housing itself (I don't believe
you can buy service parts for it however).  If you drop the oil pan it will
be staring you in the face.  It resides behind a large cap screw (~19mm &
gold colored).  Typically, a stuck open check valve will cause extremely low
oil pressures at all engine speeds or at least from idle to mid rpm range
(where it normally begins relieving oil).  If you remove the cap screw, be
aware that there will be a spring force behind it and it will shoot out at
you as the last thread disengages.

Joe G.

- ----- Original Message -----
From: "Riyan Mynuddin" <riyan@hotpop.com>
To: "Team3S" <Team3S@stealth-3000gt.st>; "Andrei Kryjevski"
<abk_4@hotmail.com>
Sent: Thursday, April 04, 2002 5:07 PM
Subject: RE: Team3S: oil pressure relief valve location

> team3s/andrei
>
> Looks like you've got a tough one. I combed through both my 1993 stealth
FSM
> and CAPS and the closest thing I found was something called an oil
pressure
> switch. This is from page 9-34 - engine assembly (DOHC) removal and
> installation. Part# MD138993 / PNC # 04226 in the CAPS program. I'll keep
my
> eyes peeled for it as I'm fixing my car though.
>
> Riyan
> 93 stealth rt tt
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-team3s@team3s.com [mailto:owner-team3s@team3s.com]On Behalf
> Of Andrei Kryjevski
> Sent: Thursday, April 04, 2002 11:58 AM
> To: abk_4@hotmail.com
> Cc: Team3S@stealth-3000gt.st
> Subject: Team3S: oil pressure relief valve location
>
>
> Hello:
>
> I want to thank everybody who replied to my questions about the oil
pressure
> light on at idle.
>
> I have a couple of follow up questions.
>
> Does anybody know where the OIL PRESSURE RELIEF VALVE is located on a 92
> Stealth R/T ? May it be accessed/services from outside or I have to pull
the
> oil pan etc? Can't find it in the manual.
>
> Somebody suggested that it may be stuck in the open position and be a
cause
> of low oil pressure at idle. Does it make sense to anyone?
>
> There is a TSB on 1991 3000GT regarding the oil pressure
> relief valve? What's all this is about? It does not say there...
>
> Finally, there are two oil pressure sensor units. let's say, the smaller
one
> and the bigger one. Which one is for the warning light
> and which one is for the gauge?
>
> Thank you.
>
> Andrei Kryjevski.

***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 4 Apr 2002 17:54:46 -0500
From: "Furman, Russell" <RFurman2@MassMutual.com>
Subject: RE: Team3S: oil pressure relief valve location

Quick thought on this.....  Could it be due to age and the extreme temps
that the spring sees, that over time it could weaken and not be able to
maintain its closed position?

> -----Original Message-----
> From: Joe Gonsowski [SMTP:twinturbo@comcast.net]
> Sent: Thursday, April 04, 2002 5:48 PM
> To: Riyan Mynuddin; Team3S; Andrei Kryjevski
> Subject: Re: Team3S: oil pressure relief valve location
>
> The relief valve is located in the oil pump housing itself (I don't
> believe
> you can buy service parts for it however).  If you drop the oil pan it
> will
> be staring you in the face.  It resides behind a large cap screw (~19mm &
> gold colored).  Typically, a stuck open check valve will cause extremely
> low
> oil pressures at all engine speeds or at least from idle to mid rpm range
> (where it normally begins relieving oil).  If you remove the cap screw, be
> aware that there will be a spring force behind it and it will shoot out at
> you as the last thread disengages.
>
> Joe G.
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Riyan Mynuddin" <riyan@hotpop.com>
> To: "Team3S" <Team3S@stealth-3000gt.st>; "Andrei Kryjevski"
> <abk_4@hotmail.com>
> Sent: Thursday, April 04, 2002 5:07 PM
> Subject: RE: Team3S: oil pressure relief valve location
>
>
> > team3s/andrei
> >
> > Looks like you've got a tough one. I combed through both my 1993 stealth
> FSM
> > and CAPS and the closest thing I found was something called an oil
> pressure
> > switch. This is from page 9-34 - engine assembly (DOHC) removal and
> > installation. Part# MD138993 / PNC # 04226 in the CAPS program. I'll
> keep
> my
> > eyes peeled for it as I'm fixing my car though.
> >
> > Riyan
> > 93 stealth rt tt
> >
> > -----Original Message-----
> > From: owner-team3s@team3s.com [mailto:owner-team3s@team3s.com]On Behalf
> > Of Andrei Kryjevski
> > Sent: Thursday, April 04, 2002 11:58 AM
> > To: abk_4@hotmail.com
> > Cc: Team3S@stealth-3000gt.st
> > Subject: Team3S: oil pressure relief valve location
> >
> >
> > Hello:
> >
> > I want to thank everybody who replied to my questions about the oil
> pressure
> > light on at idle.
> >
> > I have a couple of follow up questions.
> >
> > Does anybody know where the OIL PRESSURE RELIEF VALVE is located on a 92
> > Stealth R/T ? May it be accessed/services from outside or I have to pull
> the
> > oil pan etc? Can't find it in the manual.
> >
> > Somebody suggested that it may be stuck in the open position and be a
> cause
> > of low oil pressure at idle. Does it make sense to anyone?
> >
> > There is a TSB on 1991 3000GT regarding the oil pressure
> > relief valve? What's all this is about? It does not say there...
> >
> > Finally, there are two oil pressure sensor units. let's say, the smaller
> one
> > and the bigger one. Which one is for the warning light
> > and which one is for the gauge?
> >
> > Thank you.
> >
> > Andrei Kryjevski.

***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 4 Apr 2002 15:15:41 -0800 (PST)
From: menalteed <menalteed@yahoo.com>
Subject: RE: Team3S: Water in the Rear Deck Lid

I bought my car new and from that day to today when
you open the rear deck lid, water spills in on the
right side, nothing to do except keep a towel folded
in that area, ten years later same towel same leak.

peter 92 Stealth TT

***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 4 Apr 2002 17:43:03 -0600
From: "dustin_lenz" <dustin_lenz@hotmail.com>
Subject: RE: Team3S: suggestions needed on colored wipers

Get the PIAA wiper blades, they're silicone, work great and come in a
carbon fiber finish if you don't like black.  Cost is around $25 per
blade though.  I couldn't' find a place close by so I got them at
Overlander Outfitters at 800-288-4068.  Part #'s

carbon #pa93150 (pass), pa93153 (driver)
black  #pa93050 (pass), #pa93053 (driver)

- -Dustin
97VR4

- -----Original Message-----
From: owner-team3s@team3s.com [mailto:owner-team3s@team3s.com] On Behalf
Of Anthony Melillo
Sent: Thursday, April 04, 2002 4:00 PM
To: Team 3S List Submissions; 3000GT List Submissions
Subject: Team3S: suggestions needed on colored wipers

I am looking to replace my stock black wipers with something a little
more sporty and colorful, but haven't been able to come up
with much.

I found on place that has them on eBay, but after weeks of trying, I
have yet to get an answer from them to see of they are the
correct sizes, and most importantly will their wiper fit the rear ?

If anyone knows of a better place, maybe one that is a little more
reliable, I would greatly appreciate it.

Thanks
Anthony Melillo

***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 04 Apr 2002 18:52:43 -0500
From: Joe Gonsowski <twinturbo@comcast.net>
Subject: Re: Team3S: oil pressure relief valve location

- ----- Original Message -----
Subject: RE: Team3S: oil pressure relief valve location


> Quick thought on this.....  Could it be due to age and the extreme temps
> that the spring sees, that over time it could weaken and not be able to
> maintain its closed position?

Highly unlikely, certainly not due to heat.  If it has fatigued and cracked,
you would likely have next to zero pressure.  If it is a weak spring, you'd
have normal pressures at idle and would then go into relief earlier (say 40
psi as opposed to 55psi).

If your oil pump is causing or contributing to low oil pressure, I'd look at
other things first.  Are either of your gerotors cracked?  An oil pump has
three leak paths dealing with the gerotors themselves.  The most significant
leak path is through  what's called end face clearance.  This is the
distance between the gerotor as it sits in the housing and the cover.  A
high efficiency pump will target approximately 30-40 microns (no tighter or
you could experience increased friction and even seizure).  The other two
less significant leak paths are through the tip clearance (inner to outer
gerotor tooth clearance) and diametral clearance (outer rotor to housing
pocket).  Many times people blame oil pressure problems on the oil pump but
it is usually something else in the oil circuit like a main or rod bearing
with excessive clearance.

Best of Luck,
Joe Gonsowski

***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 4 Apr 2002 18:08:52 -0500
From: "Tim & Marina Furbush" <furbush4@netzero.net>
Subject: Team3S: alternator

I'm looking for an alternator for sale??
The best I've been able to find is 199.00 plus 69.00 core charge.
Mine is going bad and burning out batteries an everything else..

Tim
93 Stealth base model

***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 4 Apr 2002 18:21:54 -0600
From: "Craig Hodges" <chodges@houston.rr.com>
Subject: RE: Team3S: Water in the Rear Deck Lid

That happend to me. I pulled the inside black plastic liner off and what do
I see but 2 nice holes drilled in the trunk lid. It appears that these holes
were for another type of wing mine didn't use them. So I got some clear
silcone glue and put it in there, then after it dried over night put a piece
of duct tape over on the inside, put the liner back and NO More Water! I was
hoping that that was a rare occurance because I have a '99 and the wing is
different from all the others but I gues I am not that special after all! ;)
Hope this helps
Craig

- -----Original Message-----
From: owner-team3s@team3s.com [mailto:owner-team3s@team3s.com]On Behalf
Of Riyan Mynuddin
Sent: Thursday, April 04, 2002 3:31 PM
To: Team3S; Dennis and Anita Moore
Subject: RE: Team3S: Water in the Rear Deck Lid

happens to me all the time. I believe epinions.com did a review on the
stealth warning buyers about it. well, until you figure it out...

"have that towel ready!"

:)

Riyan

93 stealth rt tt

- -----Original Message-----
From: owner-team3s@team3s.com [mailto:owner-team3s@team3s.com]On Behalf
Of Dennis and Anita Moore
Sent: Wednesday, April 03, 2002 7:59 PM
To: team3s@team3s.com
Subject: Team3S: Water in the Rear Deck Lid

Hi All,

Everytime my car gets reasonably wet, when I raise the trunk lid I get water
running out from under the plastic liner on the interior.  Is this normal?
If not, how do folks think the water is getting in, and how do I stop it?
I've checked for leak paths, don't see anything obvious.  Thanks.

Dennis Moore
93 Stealth ES

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Date: Thu, 4 Apr 2002 19:38:08 -0500
From: "Zobel, Kurt" <KURT.ZOBEL@ca.com>
Subject: RE: Team3S: alternator

I got one at Kragen (two day order) lifetime guarantee for about $200 a year
ago.
They had to swap my old pulley onto the new one. 

You can get them rebuilt for under $100 too, but usually 30 day warranty.

Kurt 96 base

- -----Original Message-----
From: Tim & Marina Furbush [mailto:furbush4@netzero.net]
Sent: Thursday, April 04, 2002 3:09 PM
To: Team3S
Subject: Team3S: alternator

I'm looking for an alternator for sale??
The best I've been able to find is 199.00 plus 69.00 core charge.
Mine is going bad and burning out batteries an everything else..

Tim
93 Stealth base model

***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***

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Date: Thu, 4 Apr 2002 16:49:45 -0800 (PST)
From: menalteed <menalteed@yahoo.com>
Subject: Team3S: Oil cooler information

I was wondering because I want to try a new oil in my
engine. The question is does the oil cooler drain when
you drain the oil, if not how much oil is still in the
oil cooler. After instaling the filter full of oil can
I still put four quarts into the bolck or should I try
three and one half start it then check the dip. in
other words is there oil in the cooler and if so how
much. Anyone know.

peter 92 Stealth

***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***

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Date: Thu, 04 Apr 2002 16:57:26 -0800
From: Damon Rachell <damonr@mefas.com>
Subject: Team3S: All 3 U-joints are shot...

Well, after last weekend's fiasco with the front sway bar, I checked the
fluidity of all the U-joints of the driveshaft.  Well, each and every
one of them was notchy as hell.  In fact, the one at the differential
was so notchy that it practically locked!

So, what are my options for driveshafts?  There's little way that I buy
a stocker that'll have the same problem in 50K miles without the
possibility of replacement.  Who makes carbon fiber ones?  Aluminum
ones?  Do the carbon fiber DSs remove all 3 sections?

Thanks guys/gals.
Damon

***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***

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Date: Thu, 4 Apr 2002 19:57:39 -0500
From: "Darren Schilberg" <dschilberg@pobox.com>
Subject: RE: Team3S: Oil cooler information

Not much is in the cooler.  The entire system (oil pan, oil cooler, two
turbo oil lines, filter, etc.) is no more than 5 quarts.  I've never
been able to get in 5 quarts and that was using a "cleaner" to get out
all the old gunk before replacing with new oil (Amsoil synthetic
formulated for turbo cars) and a new filter.

Why chance it though.  Heat up the oil.  Change it.  Put some in the
filter.  Put in three quarts in the engine.  Check the level.  If it is
close to the bottom level then start the car and warm it up and get it
pumping through the filter, etc. 

Turn off the car.  Check the level.  Put in another quart.

Lather, rinse, repeat.

I believe the oil cooler does not circulate oil until it is a certain
temperature either.  So draining the oil when it is cold will not get
the oil out of the oil cooler.  And I'm not sure idling the car at high
revs will get it hot enough to get the oil cooler working anyway.  Just
drive around for a week and change it again if you really want to be
picky about it.

- --Flash!
1995 VR-4
www.schilberg.com

- -----Original Message-----
From: menalteed
Sent: Thursday, April 04, 2002 19:50
 
I was wondering because I want to try a new oil in my
engine. The question is does the oil cooler drain when
you drain the oil, if not how much oil is still in the
oil cooler. After instaling the filter full of oil can
I still put four quarts into the bolck or should I try
three and one half start it then check the dip. in
other words is there oil in the cooler and if so how
much. Anyone know.

***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***

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Date: Thu, 4 Apr 2002 16:59:15 -0800
From: "dakken" <dougusmagnus@attbi.com>
Subject: Re: Team3S: alternator

Have you considered having it rebuilt?  I know a place in Sacramento called
Servo Tech that rebuilds all motors and alternators.  They give a 1 year
warranty.  They can even remake it with more windings and a different pully
for high output stereos producing 200 amps.  I know they typically charge
about $100 to rebuild a alternator and about $275 or so to remake it.

Doug
92 Stealth RT TT

- ----- Original Message -----
From: "Tim & Marina Furbush" <furbush4@netzero.net>
To: "Team3S" <Team3S@stealth-3000gt.st>
Sent: Thursday, April 04, 2002 3:08 PM
Subject: Team3S: alternator

> I'm looking for an alternator for sale??
> The best I've been able to find is 199.00 plus 69.00 core charge.
> Mine is going bad and burning out batteries an everything else..
>
> Tim
> 93 Stealth base model

***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***

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Date: Thu, 4 Apr 2002 20:14:13 EST
From: M3000GTSL84@aol.com
Subject: Team3S: important-Bleeding brakes

I bled the brakes today on my SL. everything seemed fine after i finished
until the right front brake started leaking fluid. i jacked the car up and
found the bolt that attaches the rubber line to the caliper itself (NOT the
bleeder valve) was VERY loose. i tightend it up, replaced any brake fluid
that i lost, and drove the car. Now guys it SEEMS fine, i checked for leaking
fluid again and it looks ok. But my mother must take the car tomarrow, and it
would be unfortunite if the brakes failed on her. My question is that as long
as that bolt that attaches the line to the caliper is tight, then im good to
go right? 
thanx

- -mike

***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***

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End of Team3S: 3000GT & Stealth V1 #802
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