Team3S: 3000GT & Stealth Wednesday, April 3
2002 Volume 01 : Number
801
----------------------------------------------------------------------
Date:
Tue, 2 Apr 2002 17:40:19 -0800
From: "Geddes, Brian J" <
brian.j.geddes@intel.com>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: Ignition upgrade (warning and options)
Hey guys! Any
updates on this little test project with the Buick GN coils?
- -
Brian
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Furman, Russell
[mailto:RFurman2@MassMutual.com]
> Sent: Tuesday, March 19, 2002 2:52
PM
> To: 'Casey Rayman'; 'Team 3S'
> Subject: RE: Team3S: Ignition
upgrade (warning and options)
>
>
> Casey, how many miles on
your stock coils? Reason I ask my
> stockers have
> 122K and
I can not run over 10 PSI (stock turbos) with a.032
> gap. That
is
> what got me moving when Roger brought to light an better
>
option (IMHO) over
> what was currently suggested. BTW I will be
ordering from Summit on
> Thursday so I should have results for the list
in about 10
> days or so :)
>
> Before anyone says
anything the plugs + wires in my car have
> less than 10K
> on them
and I checked all my connections + regapped the plugs
> over this
past
> weekend so that rules those possibilities out.
>
> As
a refresher I will be running those Buick GN coils WITH
> OUT an
ignition
> amplifier for now...... Want to get one later but
possible
> location/career
> change in the works for me so I need
to keep my self mostly
> liquid at this
> time.
***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 02 Apr 2002 20:50:54
-0500
From: Joe Gonsowski <
twinturbo@comcast.net>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Fuel line rock shield
I took the easy way out and cut the
stock fuel line near the front x-member
and then pulled it out. A -8
line will fit through if you're careful since
it is flexible. I was
able to run the new -8 line in the rock shield by
removing the plastic
retension tabs on either side of where the original
fuel line ran. I'll
send a pic to your personal address.
Joe G.
- ----- Original Message
-----
From: "menalteed" <
menalteed@yahoo.com>
To: "Joe
Gonsowski" <
twinturbo@comcast.net>
Cc: "tam
3S" <
Team3S@team3s.com>
Sent:
Tuesday, April 02, 2002 8:27 PM
Subject: Re: Team3S: Fuel line rock
shield
> I'm not worried about the rock shield anymore, what
>
I've noticed is that the main fuel line can't come out
> of the enginge
compartment nor can it thread it's way
> around the rear area, I have no
idea how anyone could
> get this out as there is just not enough room to
do it
> without wrecking the line, if you have done this
> before,
by that I mean not just geting the rock shield
> out of the way but
removing the fuel line and
> replacing it through the up and over in the
rear and
> through the channel to the engine compartment without
>
wrecking it, let me know it can be done and I will do
> it but I can't
even get the line out of the engine
> compartemnt with out cuting it so I
have no idea how a
> new line would go in, it isn't like you can slide
it
> back and fourth or anything. Pleease if anyone has
> been able
to remove this line and replace it I would
> sure like to know the
trick.
>
> peter 92 Stealth TT
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 2 Apr 2002 20:35:54
-0800
From: "Ken Middaugh" <
kmiddaugh@ixpres.com>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: Running problem
See if you can read any error codes from the
diagnostic terminal. I think
Jeff Lucius' site has the documentation on
how to do this.
I just had the same problem. There were no errors
reported on the
diagnostic terminal though. After checking the
fuel pump and the camshaft
angle sensor, I replaced the ignition module under
the coil and that fixed
my problem. You can order the module for about
$160 from one the list's
discount Mitsubishi dealers.
Good
luck,
Ken
- ----- Original Message -----
From: "Martin" <
martinberkley@blueyonder.co.uk>
To:
<
team3s@stealth-3000gt.st>
Sent:
Tuesday, April 02, 2002 10:53 AM
Subject: Team3S: Running problem
>
Hello everyone
> I have just koined the list and have a question
already.
> I have a 92 3000gto Twin Turbo and it has been perfect for the
last 3
years
> but at the weekend it developed a strange
problem.
> I started it up and it ran for about 200 yds and cut out, i
then restarted
> it immediatly and moved off
> for about another 200
yds and it cut out again, it felt like it had run
out
> of fuel but
there was half a tank.
> it did this four times before i called out the
flatbed to get me home.
> Since then the car jusst spins over and
sometimes very nearly fires but
> doesn't.
> There has been no
changes to the car and the only mod is a K&N
> filtercharger.
>
Anyone had a similar experience they can shed some light on where i
should
> start looking?
> BTW no warning lights came on at the
time.
> Regards
> Martin
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 3 Apr 2002 00:54:32
-0500
From: "Darren Schilberg" <
dschilberg@pobox.com>
Subject: RE:
Team3S: Brakes Upgrade for 92 RT
Speaking of which ... I have had email
bounce back from Dave Best who
was trying to contact me about information on
the Porsche Big Red
braking system. Dave, are you out there?
Contact me off-list.
If you are interested in the Big Reds though let me
know as I might have
a pair of slightly-used ones. I'll make a list of
interested people.
Make sure you have second gen 17" wheels or larger that
will fit (sorry,
Eric). Other questions are welcome.
-
--Flash!
1995 VR-4 with Big Reds
- -----Original Message-----
From:
Calum McCusker
Sent: Tuesday, April 02, 2002 10:15
I want to
replace the stock brakes on my 92 with something a little
more
effective.
Does anyone know of any mods out there,
either to
replace just the pads with better gripping pads or do I have
to
replace
the whole brake unit ?
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 3 Apr 2002 06:42:37
-0500
From: "Furman, Russell" <
RFurman2@MassMutual.com>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: Ignition upgrade (warning and options)
I have the coils and
am working out how make an adapter to make them plug
and play, unfortunately
more pressing issue at the moment. Emissions is
about 6 months
overdue (never did it before I put the lady away) now CT DMV
is threatining
to suspend my registration :/ So spending time
hunting
down vaccum leaks and trying to get rusted D/P bolts off to get a new
stock
d/p in the car.......
Ahh yes we have Smog Nazis here just
like in Cali........ anyone looking to
move to Fla?
Russ
F
CT
P.S. roger you have any good news to post?
-
-----Original Message-----
From: Geddes, Brian J
Sent: Tue 4/2/2002 8:40
PM
To: 'Team 3S'
Cc:
Subject: RE: Team3S: Ignition upgrade (warning
and options)
Hey guys! Any updates on this little test project with
the Buick GN coils?
- - Brian
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Furman, Russell [mailto:RFurman2@MassMutual.com
<
mailto:RFurman2@MassMutual.com> ]
> Sent: Tuesday, March 19, 2002 2:52 PM
> To: 'Casey Rayman';
'Team 3S'
> Subject: RE: Team3S: Ignition upgrade (warning and options)
>
>
> Casey, how many miles on your stock coils?
Reason I ask my
> stockers have
> 122K and I can not run over 10
PSI (stock turbos) with a.032
> gap. That is
> what got me
moving when Roger brought to light an better
> option (IMHO) over
> what was currently suggested. BTW I will be ordering from Summit
on
> Thursday so I should have results for the list in about 10
>
days or so :)
>
> Before anyone says anything the plugs +
wires in my car have
> less than 10K
> on them and I checked all
my connections + regapped the plugs
> over this past
> weekend so
that rules those possibilities out.
>
> As a refresher I will be
running those Buick GN coils WITH
> OUT an ignition
> amplifier
for now...... Want to get one later but possible
> location/career
> change in the works for me so I need to keep my self mostly
>
liquid at this
> time.
>
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 3 Apr 2002 07:11:48
-0800 (PST)
From: menalteed <
menalteed@yahoo.com>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: Fuel line rock shield
Thanks for the pictures and someday I may
upgrade my
injectors and fuel line but for now I'm just trying to
get my
daily driver
back on the road. My fuel line twisted trying to
remove the
fuel filter as the old fittings where
frozen and never did break. I
bought a new fuel line from mitsi but there is no way
to get it in
without removing the passenger cabin and
engine so it is useless.
I need
to go out today and buy a flexible line that I
can get in but have no idea
where to start or what
fittings to use, I've tried
napa but they only
carry american sizes and cheap
rubber fuel line that has brass barb fittings
with
cheap clamps to hold them on
and they would fit our car they
wouldn't fir very well
as 5/16 fittings will screw in but the thread size
is
a little different. I would
desperately like to get the project done
today but
have no idea where to get the material I need. I cut
out the old
line out already before I found out that
the new one wouldn't work, big
mistake. I should tow
it to mitsi and ask them to put in the new line
they
sold me.
Ha, ha that would stump them.
Peter 92 Stealth
TT
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 03 Apr 2002 15:36:10
+0000
From:
apedenko@attbi.comSubject: Team3S: Bad
bearings?
Hi all,
How would I go about diagnosing a bad
wheel bearing?
The problem is my steering wheel vibrates at higher
speeds. A while back I hit a pothole and it got much
worse (since I
dented the rims). I replaced those rims
with another set, which cut down on
the vibration but
it was still there. Turns out those wheels were bent
too, just not as much. I had them straightened which
cut down on the
vibration some more, but it's still
there. What's bothering me even more is
that there is a
definite vibrating sound coming from the outisde. Not
so
much vibrating - it sounds more like braking on
really warped rotors.
The other thing is that I do have warped rotors
(which could
be contributing?) but this happens while
cruising, at speeds above 45mph.
Any way I can narrow down what it is?
Thanks,
Alex.
'95 3L Diablo eater (soon to
be)
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 3 Apr 2002 10:04:49
-0600
From: "Willis, Charles E." <
cewillis@TexasChildrensHospital.org>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: Bad bearings?
I think the dealers diagnose this by excessive
runout, that's wobble when
the wheel is turned, but I don't have a runout
tool. How many miles on the
car? In my experience the wheel
bearings fail over time more often than
from a single incident. I think
the front ones in our cars last about 80K
miles. I've replaced all four
bearings on my sons '93 (when it was about
80K miles),the front ones on my
'93 (maybe 70K miles) and the front ones on
my '94 (well, I have one new one
in the garage) at about 74K.
A bad wheel bearing can do all the stuff you
mentioned. Who is balancing
your wheels and
tires?
> How would I go about diagnosing a bad wheel
bearing?
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 3 Apr 2002 08:02:45
-0800
From: "fastmax" <
fastmax@cox.net>
Subject: Re: Team3S:
Fuel line rock shield
Have you thought about cutting the new line to
install it and then
putting in a coupling to reconnect the line. I'm not sure
what the
diameter of the line is but you may be able to get a plain
old
flair coupling at the hardware store [ you need a union and two
flair
nuts ] and then you'll have to flair the ends of the cut gas
line ---- a
flaring tool set costs $35 or so. They also have
compression fittings but I
think the flair would be better in this
application --- vibration and
pressure levels.
I "think" the line is an AN6 ---- if you could
find a place that sells
AN fittings you'd need a coupler, the nuts and
sleeves plus the
flaring tool. AN fittings may have a different flair ---
most flairs
are 45º but I'm not sure about AN fittings
?!?!?!?
Jim
Berry
============================================
- ----- Original
Message -----
From: "menalteed" <
menalteed@yahoo.com>
To: "Joe
Gonsowski" <
twinturbo@comcast.net>
Cc: "tam
3S" <
Team3S@team3s.com>
Sent:
Wednesday, April 03, 2002 7:11 AM
Subject: Re: Team3S: Fuel line rock
shield
> Thanks for the pictures and someday I may upgrade my
>
injectors and fuel line but for now I'm just trying to
> get my daily
driver
> back on the road. My fuel line twisted trying to
> remove
the fuel filter as the old fittings where
> frozen and never did break.
I
> bought a new fuel line from mitsi but there is no way
> to get
it in without removing the passenger cabin and
> engine so it is
useless.
> I need to go out today and buy a flexible line that I
>
can get in but have no idea where to start or what
> fittings to use, I've
tried
> napa but they only carry american sizes and cheap
> rubber
fuel line that has brass barb fittings with
> cheap clamps to hold them
on
> and they would fit our car they wouldn't fir very well
> as
5/16 fittings will screw in but the thread size is
> a little different. I
would
> desperately like to get the project done today but
> have no
idea where to get the material I need. I cut
> out the old line out
already before I found out that
> the new one wouldn't work, big mistake.
I should tow
> it to mitsi and ask them to put in the new line
they
> sold me.
> Ha, ha that would stump them.
>
>
Peter 92 Stealth TT
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 3 Apr 2002 12:31:22
-0500
From: "anscray" <
anscray@attbi.com>
Subject: Team3S:
Pre Cat section..... Please Help..
Guys,
I have my
car on jackstands in the garage right now, as I am trying to gut
the front
pre-cat.. I dont have alot of room to work and Im having a hard
time
recoginizing the precat section that can be removed.. I understand that
I
need to remove the downpipe first but at exactly what section and what
part
houses the pre-cat.. I checked Jeffs page for some pics but all I can
find is
a link to pretty general description of the work.. Any help
including pics
would be greatly appreciated..
This almost makes me think that a stilen
downpipe might be a better bet..
Scott
94 VR4
K&N FIPK, Apexi
AVCR,Borla exhaust,Greddy S-type BOV
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 03 Apr 2002 17:50:21
+0000
From:
apedenko@attbi.comSubject: RE: Team3S:
Bad bearings?
The car has 72K. The balancing was done by a firestone
shop that also did my alignment. They messed up the
first time, but
re-did it for free and i think they did
it right. I had them send the wheels
out to be
straightened, so they mounted and balanced them when
they got
them back. What bothers me a little is the
amount of weights in the wheels -
there's a good 10
weights in each wheel (mounted on the inside).
Also
the car gets excessive tracking - I attributed it
to bad roads, but could
this be it?
One more detail - hwy driving ~ 80mph sometimes the
vibration just goes away?
How much can really warped rotors
contribute to all of
this?
Alex.
> I think the dealers diagnose
this by excessive runout, that's wobble when
> the wheel is turned, but I
don't have a runout tool. How many miles on the
> car? In my
experience the wheel bearings fail over time more often than
> from a
single incident. I think the front ones in our cars last about 80K
>
miles. I've replaced all four bearings on my sons '93 (when it was
about
> 80K miles),the front ones on my '93 (maybe 70K miles) and the
front ones on
> my '94 (well, I have one new one in the garage) at about
74K.
>
> A bad wheel bearing can do all the stuff you
mentioned. Who is balancing
> your wheels and tires?
>
> > How would I go about diagnosing a bad wheel bearing?
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 3 Apr 2002 20:05:48
+0200
From: "Roger Gerl" <
roger.gerl@bluewin.ch>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Pre Cat section..... Please Help..
Look under the car
and locate the downpipe. Then follow the exhaust to the
front and right
before it bends up 90° there is a flange. Remove the two
nuts of the flange.
Then follow up the bend (what is actually the front
precat) and you will find
another flange where you again remove the two
nuts.
That's
it
Roger
93'3000GT TT
www.rtec.ch- ----- Original Message
-----
From: "anscray" <
anscray@attbi.com>
To: <
team3s@stealth-3000gt.st>
Sent:
Wednesday, April 03, 2002 7:31 PM
Subject: Team3S: Pre Cat section.....
Please Help..
> Guys,
>
> I have my car on
jackstands in the garage right now, as I am trying to
gut
> the front
pre-cat.. I dont have alot of room to work and Im having a hard
>
time recoginizing the precat section that can be removed.. I
understand
that
> I need to remove the downpipe first but at exactly
what section and what
> part houses the pre-cat.. I checked Jeffs page for
some pics but all I can
> find is a link to pretty general description of
the work.. Any help
> including pics would be greatly
appreciated..
>
> This almost makes me think that a stilen downpipe
might be a better bet..
>
>
> Scott
> 94 VR4
>
K&N FIPK, Apexi AVCR,Borla exhaust,Greddy S-type BOV
***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 3 Apr 2002 11:15:05
-0800
From: "Hans Hortin" <
hanshortin@37.com>
Subject: Team3S:
Spearparts
Hello
I have a problem whit my gearbox.
How
expensive is a used gearbox for an ES 1991 210kW in US.
Price in Sweden (cant
find one) is about 650 dollar.
Any adress on the
www....
Hans
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 3 Apr 2002 13:17:28
-0600
From: "Willis, Charles E." <
cewillis@TexasChildrensHospital.org>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: Bad bearings?
That's a lot of lead weights. Problems
balancing wheels can be because of
rims OR TIRES. My Discount Tire
store has a really cool machine that
measures road force and tells you
whether a tire needs to be demounted and
remounted to get a better
balance.
If they screwed up your tire balancing, they could have screwed
up your four
wheel alignment. I'd take it to another alignment
shop. It's worth $50-65
to have/watch someone adjust the
alignment. Hitting a pothole can cause an
alignment problem.
BTW
- this sounds very similar to a problem with my son's '93 VR4 after
I
unceremoniously took out two wheels on a curb. He had an
intermittant
vibration at about 80 that went away when he accellerated past
there. I
think we finally got rid of it by replacing a bent wheel rim,
but that was
the last of many, many things.
Chuck Willis
> -----Original Message-----
> From:
apedenko@attbi.com
[SMTP:apedenko@attbi.com]
> Sent: Wednesday, April 03, 2002 11:50
AM
> To: Willis, Charles E.
> Cc:
team3s@team3s.com> Subject: RE:
Team3S: Bad bearings?
>
> The car has 72K. The balancing was done
by a firestone
> shop that also did my alignment. They messed up the
> first time, but re-did it for free and i think they did
> it
right. I had them send the wheels out to be
> straightened, so they
mounted and balanced them when
> they got them back. What bothers me a
little is the
> amount of weights in the wheels - there's a good 10
> weights in each wheel (mounted on the inside).
>
> Also
the car gets excessive tracking - I attributed it
> to bad roads, but
could this be it?
>
> One more detail - hwy driving ~ 80mph
sometimes the
> vibration just goes away?
>
> How much can
really warped rotors contribute to all of
> this?
>
>
Alex.
> > I think the dealers diagnose this by excessive runout, that's
wobble
> when
> > the wheel is turned, but I don't have a runout
tool. How many miles on
> the
> > car? In my
experience the wheel bearings fail over time more often than
> > from a
single incident. I think the front ones in our cars last about
>
80K
> > miles. I've replaced all four bearings on my sons '93
(when it was
> about
> > 80K miles),the front ones on my '93
(maybe 70K miles) and the front ones
> on
> > my '94 (well, I
have one new one in the garage) at about 74K.
> >
> > A bad
wheel bearing can do all the stuff you mentioned. Who is
>
balancing
> > your wheels and tires?
> >
> >
> How would I go about diagnosing a bad wheel bearing?
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 03 Apr 2002 19:22:40
-0000
From: "Jeff Lucius" <
jlucius@stealth316.com>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: Bad bearings?
- ----- Original Message -----
From: <
apedenko@attbi.com>
To: "Willis,
Charles E." <
cewillis@TexasChildrensHospital.org>
Cc:
<
team3s@team3s.com>
Sent:
Wednesday, April 03, 2002 10:50 AM
Subject: RE: Team3S: Bad
bearings?
<snip>
>> Also the car gets excessive tracking
<snip>
I have experienced this (to the point of being
dangerous) when the top bearing
plate was worn on the (front) struts.
Replacements are about $60 per set (use
OEM). See the pic at the bottom of
my web page below.
http://www.stealth316.com/2-gc-springs.htmOne
test for bearing plate wear (the bearing in the middle of the plate wears
out) is that the front wheel will not consistantly re-center when it
is
"floating" on the alignment pad (at a shop) after turning the steering
wheel
one way or the other. With the plate off the car, you can also tell a
difference in how smoothly the bearing rotates compared to a new
one.
Jeff Lucius,
http://www.stealth316.com/***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 03 Apr 2002 19:46:54
-0000
From: "Jeff Lucius" <
jlucius@stealth316.com>
Subject:
Team3S: The Dyna-Batt and other SLA batteries
After some investigation, I
have determined that the Dyna-Batt battery, which
is sold by Performance
Distributors, is really the Hawker Genesis G16EP sealed
lead acid battery.
What's the big deal? The G16EP sells for only $70 ($90 list
price) compared
to the $132 to $155 that Perf, Distr. sells it for!
My web page below has
complete details on this battery and where to buy it,
plus information on
other SLA batteries (the Optima is one of these) and SLA
battery
chargers.
http://www.stealth316.com/2-dynabatt.htmJeff
Lucius,
http://www.stealth316.com/***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 3 Apr 2002 11:50:19
-0800
From: "fastmax" <
fastmax@cox.net>
Subject: Team3S: DOHC
turbo piston
I'm in need of a stock piston from a 6G72 turbo engine to
get some measurements for a replacement forged piston.
A used piston
is all I need and I can return it ---- I was
hoping to find someone in the
Southern California area.
Jim
Berry
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 03 Apr 2002 12:06:50
-0800
From: Damon Rachell <
damonr@mefas.com>
Subject: Re: Team3S:
The Dyna-Batt and other SLA batteries
All I have to say now, is WOW.
Thanks Jeff. I was definitely getting
the dynabatt but now that I've
seen what you found out, there's no way
I'm spending twice as much for the
same battery. Even 2 Genesis in
parallel will be less weight than a
stocker and probably more than
adequate for normal use/track use. Time
to make up some battery
boxes!!! Who wants one when I make them outta
fiberglass?
Damon
Jeff Lucius wrote:
> After some
investigation, I have determined that the Dyna-Batt battery, which
> is
sold by Performance Distributors, is really the Hawker Genesis G16EP sealed
> lead acid battery. What's the big deal? The G16EP sells for only $70
($90 list
> price) compared to the $132 to $155 that Perf, Distr. sells
it for!
>
> My web page below has complete details on this battery
and where to buy it,
> plus information on other SLA batteries (the
Optima is one of these) and SLA
> battery chargers.
>
>
http://www.stealth316.com/2-dynabatt.htm>
> Jeff Lucius,
http://www.stealth316.com/***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 3 Apr 2002 13:11:18
-0700
From: "Floyd, Jim" <
Jim_Floyd@maxtor.com>
Subject: RE:
Team3S: Spearparts
WWW.kormextrans.com- -----Original
Message-----
From: Hans Hortin [mailto:hanshortin@37.com]
Sent: Wednesday,
April 03, 2002 12:15 PM
To:
team3s@team3s.comSubject: Team3S:
Spearparts
Hello
I have a problem whit my gearbox.
How
expensive is a used gearbox for an ES 1991 210kW in US.
Price in Sweden (cant
find one) is about 650 dollar.
Any adress on the
www....
Hans
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 3 Apr 2002 14:52:06
-0600
From: "Geisel, Brian" <
Brian.Geisel@COMPAQ.com>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: Bad bearings?
Wheel bearing test:
You might have a bad
wheel bearing if...
1) you hear a noise that sounds like tire noise and it's
louder than you're stock audio system.
2) you turn harshly to one side and
the sound almost goes away, but you turn to the other and it only gets
louder.
3) you recently replaced the other wheel bearing.
I was angry
with Pirelli for a month before I realized it wasn't the new
tires, it was my
busted wheel bearing... About 3 weeks later the other one went out :( I
hear that's pretty typical.
geis
BTW - Mitsu broke two tools and
my hub trying to get it off of the first tire. They insisted it welded
itself to the axle and I actually had to replace the left front axle as
well. Eh well.
- -----Original Message-----
From:
apedenko@attbi.com
[mailto:apedenko@attbi.com]
Sent: Wednesday, April 03, 2002 12:50 PM
To:
Willis, Charles E.
Cc:
team3s@team3s.comSubject: RE: Team3S:
Bad bearings?
The car has 72K. The balancing was done by a firestone
shop that also did my alignment. They messed up the
first time, but
re-did it for free and i think they did
it right. I had them send the wheels
out to be
straightened, so they mounted and balanced them when
they got
them back. What bothers me a little is the
amount of weights in the wheels -
there's a good 10
weights in each wheel (mounted on the inside).
Also
the car gets excessive tracking - I attributed it
to bad roads, but could
this be it?
One more detail - hwy driving ~ 80mph sometimes the
vibration just goes away?
How much can really warped rotors
contribute to all of
this?
Alex.
> I think the dealers diagnose
this by excessive runout, that's wobble when
> the wheel is turned, but I
don't have a runout tool. How many miles on the
> car? In my
experience the wheel bearings fail over time more often than
> from a
single incident. I think the front ones in our cars last about 80K
>
miles. I've replaced all four bearings on my sons '93 (when it was
about
> 80K miles),the front ones on my '93 (maybe 70K miles) and the
front ones on
> my '94 (well, I have one new one in the garage) at about
74K.
>
> A bad wheel bearing can do all the stuff you
mentioned. Who is balancing
> your wheels and tires?
>
> > How would I go about diagnosing a bad wheel bearing?
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 3 Apr 2002 14:57:17
-0600
From: "Willis, Charles E." <
cewillis@TexasChildrensHospital.org>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: Bad bearings?
> About 3 weeks later the other one went out
:( I hear that's pretty
> typical.
[Willis, Charles E.]
seems to me that the same processes that are
at work to cause the first to
fail are working on the second.
> geis
>
> BTW - Mitsu broke
two tools and my hub trying to get it off of the first
> tire. They
insisted it welded itself to the axle and I actually had to
> replace the
left front axle as well. Eh well.
>
[Willis, Charles E.]
HA!HA!HA! I only broke ONE socket getting the
hub loose on my
'93VR4! When I installed the new ones, I cleaned the axle
splines real
good and slopped a lot of high temperature Li grease on the
axle. I
think water gets in there (as well as into the bearings) and
corrodes the
heck out of everything.
Did Mitsu (or is it Satan?) pay for the new
axle?
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 3 Apr 2002 16:07:38
-0500
From: "anscray" <
anscray@attbi.com>
Subject: Team3S:
Pre Cat section..... Please Help..
- ----- Original Message
-----
From: anscray <
anscray@attbi.com>
To: Roger Gerl
<
roger.gerl@bluewin.ch>
Sent:
Wednesday, April 03, 2002 4:06 PM
Subject: Re: Team3S: Pre Cat section.....
Please Help..
> Thanks for the quick
help..
>
> I just could not loosen the 2 nuts on upper
end of the 90 degree angle..
> I had previously removed the other nuts to
install the borla and these
were
> pretty easy, but these 2 near the
pre-cat are definately on there..
>
> I do not have air
tools but I could probably get a hold of some if I
have
> to..
Any other suggestions on the removal of these 2 nuts..
>
>
>
Thanks again,
> Scott
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 3 Apr 2002 15:15:35
-0600
From: "Geisel, Brian" <
Brian.Geisel@COMPAQ.com>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: Bad bearings?
No, actually. It really wasn't their
fault that the axle was busted. I kinda did a bad thing... I forgot to
tighten my bolts on my caliper after doing the last brake job. One fell
out on the highway, so I just basically shoved a stick in it for a while.
I'm pretty sure that torqued the daylights out of the wheel everytime I hit the
breaks, and that broke a lot of stuff :)
I have to admit though, I
took it to the Mitsu dealership in PA. They've got some guys there who
know what they're doing. I now live in MA, where the Mitsu dealerships
can't even identify the vehicle.
geis - shaking head in disbelief of
incompetence in New England
- -----Original Message-----
From: Willis,
Charles E. [mailto:cewillis@TexasChildrensHospital.org]
Sent: Wednesday,
April 03, 2002 3:57 PM
To: Geisel, Brian;
apedenko@attbi.com; Willis, Charles
E.
Cc:
team3s@team3s.comSubject:
RE: Team3S: Bad bearings?
> About 3 weeks later the other one went out
:( I hear that's pretty
> typical.
[Willis, Charles E.]
seems to me that the same processes that are
at work to cause the first to
fail are working on the second.
> geis
>
> BTW - Mitsu broke
two tools and my hub trying to get it off of the first
> tire. They
insisted it welded itself to the axle and I actually had to
> replace the
left front axle as well. Eh well.
>
[Willis, Charles E.]
HA!HA!HA! I only broke ONE socket getting the
hub loose on my
'93VR4! When I installed the new ones, I cleaned the axle
splines real
good and slopped a lot of high temperature Li grease on the
axle. I
think water gets in there (as well as into the bearings) and
corrodes the
heck out of everything.
Did Mitsu (or is it Satan?) pay for the new
axle?
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 3 Apr 2002 15:22:28
-0600
From: "Jannusch, Matt" <
mjannusch@marketwatch.com>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: Pre Cat section..... Please Help..
> I just could
not loosen the 2 nuts on upper
> end of the 90 degree angle.. I
had
> previously removed the other nuts to install
> the borla and
these were pretty easy, but
> these 2 near the pre-cat are definately on
there..
> Any other suggestions on the removal of these
> 2
nuts..
Use a longer socket wrench to get more leverage, or slide a piece
of pipe
over the wrench to apply more force to the nuts.
Plenty of
WD-40 doesn't hurt either.
- -Matt
'95 3000GT Spyder
VR4
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 3 Apr 2002 23:33:10
+0200
From: "Roger Gerl" <
roger.gerl@bluewin.ch>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Pre Cat section..... Please Help..
Often the trick is
to heaten up the exhaust either by runnign the engine or
with a heater gun. I
soaked the nuts over night with WD40 and then had to
use the heater gun the
first time !
Roger
93'3000GT TT
www.rtec.ch> > I just could not
loosen the 2 nuts on upper
> > end of the 90 degree angle.. I
had
> > previously removed the other nuts to install
> > the
borla and these were pretty easy, but
> > these 2 near the pre-cat are
definately on there..
>
> > Any other suggestions on the removal
of these
> > 2 nuts..
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 3 Apr 2002 13:53:02
-0800 (PST)
From: menalteed <
menalteed@yahoo.com>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: Pre Cat section..... Please Help..
I soaked the nuts for
several days with wrenchese
before trying to remove them, then they still
where
very tight so I used my half inch socket set and had a
six foot
pipe over the handle, and that worked fine.
Peter 92 Stealth
TT
*** Info:
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***
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 3 Apr 2002 14:07:29
-0800 (PST)
From: menalteed <
menalteed@yahoo.com>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: Fuel line rock shield
Well spend the day driving around the great
northwest,
went to about four tuning shops and three or four
speed shops
and sever merine supply shops and a
special shop that deals only in fittings
and other
shops in the same vain and I'm happy to report that
not one shop
in the great north west has a fitting or
gas line that will work with the
mitubishi stock
fitting that goes to the fuel filter or the fuel
pump.
My car sits, and I guess after checking with this
group and my
running around for hours today with no
luck on what to do to get a new fuel
line connected
that would fit under the rock shield or would screw
into
the hard pipe near the fuel filter I give up. Two
months working on the car
I'm so pissed off today that
I better stay away from the sludge hammer or my
car
will be in peices, to tell the truth I don't know why
I keep it, it
always breaks down is always exspensive
or impossible to fix, everything
including the
electrical rusts, has lost all it's value in ten short
years
so what is the use. Thankyou mitubishi for
useing the one fitting on your gas
line that no one
has any idea where you came up with the size.
peter
92 stealth in jepardy of a good beating.
*** Info:
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***
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 3 Apr 2002 17:32:18
-0500
From: "Zobel, Kurt" <
KURT.ZOBEL@ca.com>
Subject: Team3S:
RE: 3S-Racers: battery relocation...
Ground to the trunk(anywhere that
looks good) but also run at least a small 20-30 amp wire directly to engine
ground. Little expense or weight for the insurance ground.
Kurt
- -----Original Message-----
From: Damon Rachell
[mailto:damonr@mefas.com]
Sent: Wednesday, April 03, 2002 1:03 PM
To:
3sracers;
team3s@speedracer.speedtoys.comSubject:
3S-Racers: battery relocation...
I've got a question about grounding the
stock terminals for a battery
relocation (trunk). I've already got the
hot wire in place from my
stereo (2ga 1600strand o2 free copper), but was
wondering if there's any
problems swapping grounding locations from the
engine compartment to the
trunk. I was thinking that the spare tire
tiedown might be a good place
(close and quality chassis point) for the
battery ground, but will there
be any problems with attaching the stock
battery ground location to say
the firewall? What about chassis
resistance from the stock location to
the new spare tire tiedown
location?
Thanks
Damon
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 03 Apr 2002 14:37:24
-0800
From: Dean Benz <
dbenz@usa.net>
Subject: Re: Team3S: The
Dyna-Batt and other SLA batteries
Do the sanctioning bodies recognize the
SLAs as "sealed" and not require
battery boxes? Anybody seen a SCCA or NASA
rule or ruling on this? (My '02
Solo rule book is at home, or I would
look.)
It would be nice not to have to use up the space for an unsealed
box around a
sealed battery.
My concern with SLAs in automotive
application is that the wet cell oriented
automotive regulators don't mind if
they slightly over charge a wet cell. That
is why wet cells generally lose
water. Over charging a SLA can quickly lead to
premature failure because
there is no way to replace the vented Hydrogen, and
Oxygen. (I had a UPS at
work that would kill a SLA every 9-12 months even
though it was hardly ever
in battery mode because the regulator was ove
rcharging the battery. I know
there are simple circuits and probably
commercial products out there to
protect automotive SLAs, but the battery
manufacturers/vendors are probably
the last ones who will tell us about them.
Damon Rachell <
damonr@mefas.com> wrote:
> All I
have to say now, is WOW. Thanks Jeff. I was definitely getting
>
the dynabatt but now that I've seen what you found out, there's no way
>
I'm spending twice as much for the same battery. Even 2 Genesis in
> parallel will be less weight than a stocker and probably more than
> adequate for normal use/track use. Time to make up some battery
> boxes!!! Who wants one when I make them outta fiberglass?
>
> Damon
>
> Jeff Lucius wrote:
>
> > After
some investigation, I have determined that the Dyna-Batt battery,
which
> > is sold by Performance Distributors, is really the Hawker Genesis
G16EP
sealed
> > lead acid battery. What's the big deal? The G16EP
sells for only $70 ($90
list
> > price) compared to the $132 to
$155 that Perf, Distr. sells it for!
> >
> > My web page
below has complete details on this battery and where to buy
it,
> >
plus information on other SLA batteries (the Optima is one of these) and
SLA
> > battery chargers.
> >
> >
http://www.stealth316.com/2-dynabatt.htm>
>
> > Jeff Lucius,
http://www.stealth316.com/Dean
Benz
dbenz@usa.net***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 03 Apr 2002 15:05:33
-0800
From: Damon Rachell <
damonr@mefas.com>
Subject: Team3S: Re:
3S-Racers: battery relocation...
that actually makes sense. So run
say an 8 gauge wire next to the power
wire back to the engine ground.
is there any problems connecting the
engine ground to the chassis then to
the battery? The more grounds the
better?
I know that
for stereo hook up, you need to ground the amps and the
stereo at the exact
same locations. Floating grounds can cause noise
and unclean
power. Does the same principle apply to say the ECU and the
engine?
Damon
Zobel, Kurt wrote:
> Ground to the
trunk(anywhere that looks good) but also run at least a small 20-30 amp wire
directly to engine ground. Little expense or weight for the insurance
ground.
>
> Kurt
>
> -----Original
Message-----
> From: Damon Rachell [mailto:damonr@mefas.com]
> Sent:
Wednesday, April 03, 2002 1:03 PM
> To: 3sracers;
team3s@speedracer.speedtoys.com>
Subject: 3S-Racers: battery relocation...
>
>
> I've got a
question about grounding the stock terminals for a battery
> relocation
(trunk). I've already got the hot wire in place from my
> stereo
(2ga 1600strand o2 free copper), but was wondering if there's any
>
problems swapping grounding locations from the engine compartment to the
> trunk. I was thinking that the spare tire tiedown might be a good
place
> (close and quality chassis point) for the battery ground, but
will there
> be any problems with attaching the stock battery ground
location to say
> the firewall? What about chassis resistance from
the stock location to
> the new spare tire tiedown location?
>
> Thanks
> Damon
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 3 Apr 2002 18:53:24
EST
From:
M3000GTSL84@aol.comSubject: Team3S:
Alarm question
The alarm on my 97 SL serves its purpose, but im sure some
of of you other
guys have noticed that there is no beep or light blink to
let you kno if you
locked or unlocked it (the lights inside blink, but its
impossible to see
them in the day). the locks have a distinctive click, but
sometimes they can
be hard to hear, even up close. anybody know how to wire
the alarm so that
the horn and/or lights go off after you lock and unlocked
it?
- -mike
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 03 Apr 2002 19:16:29
-0500
From: Anthony Melillo <
anthonymelillo3@comcast.net>
Subject:
Team3S: using orbital polisher with zymol wax
I just received an orbital
polisher as a gift, and was wondering if this would properly with, the Zymol
Carbon Wax that I use, or
their cleaner ?
My car is a 1997 Mitsubishi
3000GT VR-4, which was custom painted a couple of years ago, with PPG
Paint.
The polisher I received is listed below:
http://www.cyclomfg.com/html/about.htmlhttp://www.topoftheline.com/cycorpol.htmlAny
help will be greatly appreciated. Thanks
My car can be found
here:
http://mywebpages.comcast.net/anthonymelillo3/3000gt.htmAnthony
Melillo
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 03 Apr 2002 19:19:47
-0500
From: Anthony Melillo <
anthonymelillo3@comcast.net>
Subject:
Team3S: anyone ever used a jetchip ECU Upgrade
I heard about a company
called Jet Performance Products while watching the Hot Rod show on Speed
TV.
They do offer an ECU upgrade for our cars and I was wondering if
anyone has ever dealt with them, or know if their products are good
or not
?
Any other ECU recommendations would be appreciated. I received a
spare ECU as a gift a few years ago, and I am going to have that
one upgraded
while I keep the stock on as a backup just in case.
Thanks
Anthony
Melillo
1997 VR-4, Firestorm Red
http://mywebpages.comcast.net/anthonymelillo3/3000gt.htm***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 3 Apr 2002 19:24:21
EST
From:
M3000GTSL84@aol.comSubject: Team3S:
Dynamic racing products?
The only metal intake pipe i can for my N/A find
online is from Dynamic
racing. has anybody perfomed this mod, and
found it useful in giving sound
and response? is the quality of it good as
well? if anybody has another place
that makes N/A intake pipes please let me
kno, thanx
- -mike
97 SL red
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 3 Apr 2002 16:51:58
-0800
From: "Jeff & Debby Kelley" <
spiritliving@canby.com>
Subject:
Team3S: Air Conditioner unit ?
I'm knew to this! Any idea where I
can get an air conditioner
Compressor assembly for a 93 Stealth SOHC? I
live in Oregon, I checked with
Foster Auto Parts (No Go)! I
purchased this car in Texas at the end of
Jan. this year so far other than
this it has been great! When I turn it on
it makes a loud noise and no cold
air. Does not make a noise when turned off
.Ideas??
Thanks!
Jeff
*** Info:
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***
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 3 Apr 2002 18:54:32
-0600
From: "dustin_lenz" <
dustin_lenz@hotmail.com>
Subject:
Team3S: Hopefully the last Transmission related question I will have to
ask
Well, if anyone remembers, I was one of many who have had the 2nd
gear
syncro problem, and thanks for all the responses I received. To
make a
long story short, Satan replaced the transmission with a NEW
one,
finally. After I got it back I noticed it was hard to shift when
cold,
so I changed fluid to Syncromesh. Shifting got easier, but guess
what,
now with 3 weeks on the new transmission I am starting to
feel
occasional grinding when I shift quickly into 2nd! My question is
this:
I had the stock clutch replaced with an RPS and a findanza
flywheel
before they swapped the transmission so... can a bad clutch
installation
cause the grinding into 2nd?
Dustin
97VR4 (Getting to
be NOT worth the trouble)
*** Info:
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***
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 3 Apr 2002 19:59:29
-0500
From: "Darren Schilberg" <
dschilberg@pobox.com>
Subject: RE:
Team3S: The Dyna-Batt and other SLA batteries
I thought even sealed
batteries required a battery box when in another
location other than the
engine bay. I don't know if this was a rule
change though.
Here
is a quote from the 2001 SCCA rulebook:
Section 14.9.C (Street
Prepared Category)
Relocation of the battery
or batteries is permitted but not
into the
passenger compartment. If the battery is relocated
and the original battery tray can be removed
by simply unbolting
it, the tray may be
removed, or relocated with the battery.
Holes may be drilled for mounting or passage of cables. Longer
cables may be substituted to permit
relocation. The number of
battery or
batteries may not be changed from stock. The area
behind the rearmost seat is not considered to
be within the
passenger
compartment.
Summary:
- - Appears you can not locate a battery
anywhere else besides the trunk
or engine.
- - You can not go from one
battery stock to two Dyna Batt batteries as
was suggested by someone but have
to maintain the same number as stock.
- --Flash!
- -----Original
Message-----
From: Dean Benz
Sent: Wednesday, April 03, 2002
17:37
Do the sanctioning bodies recognize the SLAs as "sealed" and
not require
battery boxes? Anybody seen a SCCA or NASA rule or ruling on
this? (My
'02 Solo rule book is at home, or I would look.)
It would be
nice not to have to use up the space for an unsealed box
around sealed
battery.