Team3S: 3000GT & Stealth Tuesday, April 2
2002 Volume 01 : Number
800
----------------------------------------------------------------------
Date:
Mon, 01 Apr 2002 20:38:21 -0800
From: George Yin <
gyin@vt.edu>
Subject: Team3S: RCA
connection
I'm in the process of putting in on 10" subwoofer and I did
not see and RCA
connections on the back of the factory head unit in the
back. Can someone
who has done this already tell me where to connect the rca
cables? I'm not
too good with audio installation.
George
94 3000GT
SL
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 1 Apr 2002 20:42:18
EST
From:
M3000GTSL84@aol.comSubject: Re:
Team3S: RCA connection
guys maybe im wrong, but i dont think there are
any extra jacks on the stock
head unit to hook the RCA cables into? Did u
try looking under the passenger
seat at the amp? But George, in any case, if
u want to put in a sub, then the
first thing u should do is get a new head
unit with a sub bass controller and
equalizer. Alpine makes an excellent
head unit for that for about 400 i
believe. it isnt cheap, but the sound you
get will be MUCH clearer.
- -mike
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 1 Apr 2002 21:25:37
-0500
From: "Dennis and Anita Moore" <
stealth@quixnet.net>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: RCA connection
Another option is to get a crossover device that
will take speaker inputs
and split off subwoofer signals to an RCA jack and
the rest of the signal to
the original speakers. Tap into the rear
speakers for this. Crutchfield
used to carry a couple options, but I
don't find any in their webstore.
Maybe you can give them a call, see what
they have to offer?
Obviously, the Alpine head unit will give you a
better sounding solution,
but this would likely be cheaper.
Hope this
helps.
Dennis
93 Stealth ES
- ----- Original Message
-----
From: <
M3000GTSL84@aol.com>
To: <
Team3S@stealth-3000gt.st>
Sent:
Monday, April 01, 2002 8:42 PM
Subject: Re: Team3S: RCA
connection
guys maybe im wrong, but i dont think there are any extra
jacks on the stock
head unit to hook the RCA cables into? Did u try looking
under the passenger
seat at the amp? But George, in any case, if u want to
put in a sub, then
the
first thing u should do is get a new head unit with
a sub bass controller
and
equalizer. Alpine makes an excellent head unit
for that for about 400 i
believe. it isnt cheap, but the sound you get will
be MUCH clearer.
- -mike
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 1 Apr 2002 18:27:56
-0800 (PST)
From: menalteed <
menalteed@yahoo.com>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: Rear bank O2 sensor replacement
I used a special tool from my
garage to remove my rear
O2 sensor, a pipe wrench. It worked
fine.
Peter 92 Stealth TT
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 1 Apr 2002 19:00:31
-0800
From: "fastmax" <
fastmax@cox.net>
Subject: Re: Team3S:
Roll Cage - Chassis
For some of the race organizations --- SCCA, Silver
State Challenge and others ---
there regulations about distance of the bar
from your helmet, both above and
the back and maybe even the
sides.
Jim
berry
===================================================
- -----
Original Message -----
From: "Zobel, Kurt" <
KURT.ZOBEL@ca.com>
To: <
griz600cc@comcast.net>; "Team 3S"
<
Team3S@stealth-3000gt.st>
Sent:
Monday, April 01, 2002 10:32 AM
Subject: RE: Team3S: Roll Cage -
Chassis
> I was discussing roll cages this weekend, and the topic of
'fitment' came up.
> Just a note to check fitment access and headroom
with the Seat and Helmet
> you intend to use while designing your cages.
> Especially some of the pre-fab roll cages may interfere
> with
helmet clearance and head position.
>
> Heads
up,
> Kurt
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From:
griz600cc@comcast.net
[mailto:griz600cc@comcast.net]
> Sent: Friday, March 29, 2002 7:30
AM
> To: Team 3S
> Subject: Team3S: Roll Cage - Chassis
>
>
> Since the topic of roll cages came up before...
>
>
http://www.racetec.net/services.htm***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 01 Apr 2002 23:02:48
-0500 (EST)
From:
gtg509d@prism.gatech.eduSubject:
Team3S: wind noise/antenna/car phone
Hello,
I just got a 1991
Stealth R/T that is in good shape, but there are a few things
I want to try
and fix:
1) There is a great deal of wind noise, even at low
speeds. I'm not sure if
the driver's side window is worse than the
passenger side or not - regardless,
I would like to try and reduce the noise
as much as possible.
2) The radio antenna is stuck in the up
position. I hear the motor working
when the radio is turned off and
on, but the antenna doesn't move. Does this
probably mean the mast
needs replacing? Or is there something easier to do (or
is it more
serious)?
3) The car is wired with an old car phone. The base comes
out of the
console/floor on the passenger side, there is a microphone coming
out of the
roof by the driver's door, the antenna's wire comes out of the
roof by the
hatchback, and the antenna is attached to the glass on the
hatchback. Any
ideas on removing any or all of the phone
components?
Thank you very much,
Michael
***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 1 Apr 2002 23:32:54
-0600
From:
daedel@mac.comSubject:
Team3S: Jack Stand
I'm about to do a bit of work under the car and I was
wondering if
anyone could inform me of a good brand of jack stand to put it
up on. (1
for each corner). Doesn't need to be fancy, just functional and
safe.
And while we're on the subject, a recommendation for a dolly would be
very welcome.
Thanks in advance, David.
94 3000GT
Lafayette,
Louisiana
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 01 Apr 2002 22:47:26
-0700
From: "Zach Sauerman" <
axemaddock@hotmail.com>
Subject:
Team3S: Stock Wheels on '94 TT and Tirerack.com
Good evening all!
I
have a '94 Pearl Yellow TT with the wheels that are color matched to the
car. My best guess is that these are stock because of file photos of TTs
having the same wheels. The Comp T/As on there now are 235/45ZR17. Because
of an idea I had on rotating the tires, I get to buy four new tires. I have
read up on Tirerack's website about sizes, but am still unsure how 235's fit
those wheels, and I really want to get 245's on there, and am unsure if that
will work. Can anybody say that 245's do fit these wheels?
Also,
while browsing Tirerack.com, I found the Kumho Ecsta Supra 712s. The
reviews
are mixed, but seem positive for our cars. Searching our archives
came up
with a couple of reviews. Can anybody else provide input? Budgeting
makes me
want to buy these, and at the most the Potenza RE730. Nobody in the
archive
had feedback about the 730's. Can anybody provide input on those? I
am most
concerned with handling and dry traction. Wear is also a concern,
and that
seems mixed from reviews. I just don't have the cheese to invest in
the
Potenza S-03 PP or Firehawks. Later on I will be able to get those.
And
if you are curious, the Comp T/As didn't appreciate being side-switched
even
though I had them mounted so they spun the same direction. So, don't
try that to get more even wear.
Thanks in advance for any input other
than heckling for a bad decision,
Zach Sauerman
'94 Pearl Yellow
TT
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 1 Apr 2002 21:57:22
-0800
From: "fastmax" <
fastmax@cox.net>
Subject: Re: Team3S:
Jack Stand
Buy a jack stand as though your life depended on it
!!!
Don't buy one of those cheap split pipe types of stands, buy
a
good rectangular base type with the ratcheting
extension.
Jim
Berry
===========================================
- ----- Original
Message -----
From: <
daedel@mac.com>
To: <
team3s@team3s.com>
Sent: Monday, April
01, 2002 9:32 PM
Subject: Team3S: Jack Stand
> I'm about to do a
bit of work under the car and I was wondering if
> anyone could inform me
of a good brand of jack stand to put it up on. (1
> for each corner).
Doesn't need to be fancy, just functional and safe.
> And while we're on
the subject, a recommendation for a dolly would be
> very
welcome.
>
> Thanks in advance, David.
> 94 3000GT
>
Lafayette, Louisiana
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 2 Apr 2002 00:36:57
-0600
From: "cody" <
overclck@satx.rr.com>
Subject: RE:
Team3S: Stock Wheels on '94 TT and Tirerack.com
Go to Discount Tire
www.discounttiredirect.com - free
shipping even!!!
(I work there :) ) Anyways.... 245/45
should be the size on your
car... That's the stock size for a 17"
wheel... I love my Kumho's and
for a street tire, wouldn't change to
anything else, especially for the
price... Much better than my Nitto
555's, and my Yokohama's...Not sure
on the Potenzas though...
-
-Cody
- -----Original Message-----
From:
owner-team3s@team3s.com
[mailto:owner-team3s@team3s.com] On Behalf
Of Zach Sauerman
Sent: Monday,
April 01, 2002 11:47 PM
To:
Team3S@stealth-3000gt.stSubject:
Team3S: Stock Wheels on '94 TT and Tirerack.com
Good evening all!
I
have a '94 Pearl Yellow TT with the wheels that are color matched to
the
car. My best guess is that these are stock because of file photos of
TTs
having the same wheels. The Comp T/As on there now are
235/45ZR17.
Because
of an idea I had on rotating the tires, I get to buy
four new tires. I
have
read up on Tirerack's website about sizes, but am
still unsure how 235's
fit
those wheels, and I really want to get 245's
on there, and am unsure if
that
will work. Can anybody say that 245's do
fit these wheels?
Also, while browsing Tirerack.com, I found the Kumho
Ecsta Supra 712s.
The
reviews are mixed, but seem positive for our cars.
Searching our
archives
came up with a couple of reviews. Can anybody else
provide input?
Budgeting
makes me want to buy these, and at the most the
Potenza RE730. Nobody in
the
archive had feedback about the 730's. Can
anybody provide input on
those? I
am most concerned with handling and dry
traction. Wear is also a
concern,
and that seems mixed from reviews. I
just don't have the cheese to
invest in
the Potenza S-03 PP or Firehawks.
Later on I will be able to get those.
And if you are curious, the Comp
T/As didn't appreciate being
side-switched
even though I had them mounted
so they spun the same direction. So,
don't
try that to get more
even wear.
Thanks in advance for any input other than heckling for a bad
decision,
Zach Sauerman
'94 Pearl Yellow TT
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 2 Apr 2002 02:40:39
-0800
From: "Hans Hortin" <
hanshortin@37.com>
Subject: Team3S:
RE: Returned mail: see transcript for details
Hello
>
>I have
bougt a car from Gabriella Lopez in Miami 2000.
>I have tried to trace it
from Sweden.
>How many owners and other papers.In Europe they can
only see
>that the car come from US.
>
>Is it possible to
trace it from US or can you help me get a www. adress.
>
>Dodge
Stealth ES 1991
>JB3XD54B3MY05231
>
>
>Hans
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 1 Apr 2002 18:55:03
-0800
From: "Riyan Mynuddin" <
riyan@hotpop.com>
Subject: RE: Team3S:
oil pressure light is on
Andrei, and team3s-
I also read in the 93
stealth rt tt owner's manual that the oil pressure
light is not a big deal as
long as it turns off when you begin driving. I
will quote the paragraph that
I read this is when I find it. As long as it
turns off AS SOON AS you begin
driving, you're not at a risk for the near
future. My car does it too. It
just might be a warning signal to get
something taken care of within the next
5000-7000 miles. Good luck.
Riyan
- -----Original
Message-----
From:
owner-team3s@team3s.com
[mailto:owner-team3s@team3s.com]On Behalf
Of Andrei Kryjevski
Sent:
Friday, March 29, 2002 12:44 PM
To:
Team3S@stealth-3000gt.stCc:
abk_4@hotmail.comSubject: Team3S: oil
pressure light is on
Hello:
250 miles after an oil change (Mobil 1 full synthetic,
Champion filter, used
Chevron engine flush before the oil change) I used a
dura-lube product
called Restore on my Stealth R/T 1992 with 109000
miles.
Oil pressure warning light started coming on at idle shortly after
that when
the engine was hot (at about 1200 rpm). I drained the oil, refilled
it with
the fresh Mobil 1 oil (same filter). Problem returned
shortly.
Took it to a mechanic. They stuck in a mechanical gauge, it read
23psi at
idle, 45 at cruising speed. But now I don't think the engine was hot
enough.
Replaced the oil warning light switch. Same problem. The engine
sounded good
as far as I can tell, mechanic also thought so.
All this
happened on a trip, so I had to drive the car 1100 miles.
I drained some
oil and there was some brassy filings in it (not a lot, but
some). Showed it
to a mechanic. His response was that I shouldn't worry too
much about it,
that is in his opinion the amount of brass was normal.
How can you tell
if it is worn bearings? Any kind of specific noise? Should
I see oil leaking
anywhere?
How can you tell if it is the failing oil pump?
Has
anybody used that Restore dura-lube product? Could it cause all this? I
heard
some positive opinions about it elsewhere. Should I flush and replace
the oil
filter?
Finally, I have a leaky oil cap. Can it possibly be
it?
What else may be?
I read archives and saw that a few people
had problems of this sort but
didn't find a direct answer.
Thank you
very much.
Andrei Kryjevski.
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 02 Apr 2002 14:20:52
-0000
From: "Jeff Lucius" <
jlucius@stealth316.com>
Subject:
Team3S: Re: Rear bank O2 sensor replacement
Brian,
Before tackling
an O2 sensor replacement, especially if no check engine light
is on, be sure
you tapped the correct wire for the rear upstream O2 sensor and
that the tap
is good. The best I can tell without owning a '94 VR4 is that ECU
pin #75 is
the front upstream sensor and #76 is the rear upstream sensor.
Corrections
are appreciated for the table on my web page below.
http://www.stealth316.com/2-ecu94.htmJeff
Lucius,
http://www.stealth316.com/- -----
Original Message -----
From: "Geddes, Brian J" <
brian.j.geddes@intel.com>
To:
"Starnet Mailing List (E-mail)" <
stealth@stls.verio.net>; "Team3S
Mailing
List (E-mail)" <
team3s@stealth-3000gt.st>
Sent:
Monday, April 01, 2002 6:28 PM
Subject: Team3S: Rear bank O2 sensor
replacement
<snip>
I recently installed an Apexi S-AFC, and used a
couple of the unused lines
to monitor my O2 sensor voltages. Front bank
looks good in closed loop
mode, but the rear bank constantly shows < .1
volts.
<snip>
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 02 Apr 2002 14:50:56
-0000
From: "Jeff Lucius" <
jlucius@stealth316.com>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Jack Stand
As Jim mentioned, buy a substantial jack stand
with a capacity in the 3 ton to
5 ton range. Sears often sells their 3-ton
jack with two stands for about
$100. For occasional lifting duties the 2-ton
jacks sold at auto parts stores
will work; but it is not nearly as nice to
use as the 3-ton variety. The 2-ton
jack can have the advantage of having a
lower starting hieght (my 3-ton jack
no longer fits under any load bearing
feature after lowering my TT). The 2-ton
jack is also light and small enough
to fit behind the rear seats for long
trips where roadside repairs might be
required.
Tips for lifting and supporting our cars:
http://www.stealth316.com/2-raisecar.htmJeff
Lucius,
http://www.stealth316.com/- -----
Original Message -----
From: <
daedel@mac.com>
To: <
team3s@team3s.com>
Sent: Monday, April
01, 2002 10:32 PM
Subject: Team3S: Jack Stand
I'm about to do a bit of
work under the car ....<snip>
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 2 Apr 2002 10:14:32
-0500
From: "Calum McCusker" <
Calum@Canalytical.com>
Subject:
Team3S: Brakes Upgrade for 92 RT
Hi all,
I want to replace the stock
brakes on my 92 with something a little more
effective.
Does anyone
know of any mods out there,
either to replace just the pads with better
gripping pads or do I have to
replace the whole brake unit
?
Thanks
Calum
Calum@Canalytical.comwww.Canalytical.coman ISO 17025
Company
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 02 Apr 2002 10:07:27
-0500
From: SHANNON <
shannon@oxfordlearning.com>
Subject:
Team3S: running lean
To TEAM3S,
I have an urgent problem that I
need some expert ammunition for. Any FACTS
I can have going into this
dealer would help me out a great deal, so thank
you in advance.
Some
"history" might prove helpful in the evaluation.
Over three weeks ago
(yes, THREE WEEKS, it's killing me) I took my 92 TT in
for servicing.
It was "chugging" at higher RPM's. The dealer said it was a
cracked
rear turbo. He proceeded to rebuild that turbo and clean the
front
turbo. That was done 2 weeks ago, but then it wasn't running
right, so they
replaced the o2 sensors and flushed the injectors.
I
was then supposed to pick it up but he said that the timing belt jumped
and
would have to fix that. Finally, on Thursday I went to pick it up.
The
bill was a gut wrenching $ 4,000, but my consolation was the dealer
said
that the car was running 95% near new and I probably had never driven
it
running this fresh before. Well wouldn't you know it but I started
it and
right off take-off realized it's the WORSE I have ever drive
it.
I immediately pulled back into the dealer. At first he said it
was likely
because they shampooed the engine and needed time to dry.
I'm not a
mechanical wizard by any means, but I had a very bad feeling that
it wasn't
the problem.
THE PROBLEM, they say, is after scooping
the engine, the rear drivers side
piston, was running lean. He noticed
blackening in the cylinder therefore,
it was doing it for some time, he
said. The top of the piston is cracked
because of it and needs
replacing. I personally find this about as fishy as
Lake Michigan, but
I need some "proof" that this couldn't be the case. Or
if this indeed
is the case, how they could have managed to do that in the 3
weeks they've
had it. I'm wondering if it has something to do with when
they buggered
up the timing.
I'm not sure what occurred by several things are
clear.
1. The car WAS NOT running this bad when it was brought in.
2.
The dealer said it was running superb, then all of the sudden there's
a
cracked piston?
3. No mention of this before, and was told the car is
not driveable in this
condition. Well, I drove it running poorly for
weeks with no problem, just
decided to finally get it looked at one
day.
4. My bill keeps getting longer by the week. Chrysler's good
ol'
"trouble-shooting" approach.
What can I do? I
appreciate any advice.
P.S. Because of the complex nature of the TT and
their repair bills I was
considering getting something else for my next car,
even though I love this
car SO much, and nothing can hold a candle to it in
my opinion. However,
Team3S has given me renewed hope, the knowledge
here has made me
enthusiastic about maybe even trying some standard mods, if
I can get my
baby back!!
Thanks a lot,
Shannon
92 TT - stock
w/97,000 miles
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 2 Apr 2002 10:19:19
-0500
From: "Calum McCusker" <
Calum@Canalytical.com>
Subject:
Team3S: Help needed, steath struggles in morning
Just as an update from
the last message about this,
until the Stealth warms up it doesn't like to be
driven.
Pulling off in low revvs <3000, the engine will cut out or
refuse to
accelerate. With car in gear it just kangaroos until I let up and
eventually
rev to over 3000 rpm then let up on the clutch.
Even with
clutch out I can gently floor the accelerator but the revvs only
go up to say
2500 rpm and sit there coughing.
Once it's warm, much less of a
problem...
Any one with more ideas I cn play with
?
thanks
Calum
92 RT blue
stock everything but Magnacor
wires...(wow, big spender!)
Calum@Canalytical.comwww.Canalytical.coman ISO 17025
Company
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 02 Apr 2002 09:16:08
-0600
From: "
merritt@cedar-rapids.net" <
merritt@cedar-rapids.net>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Brakes Upgrade for 92 RT
At 10:14 AM 4/2/02 -0500, Calum
McCusker wrote:
>Hi all,
>I want to replace the stock brakes on my
92 with something a little more
>effective.
>
The cheapest
upgrade is to install 94+ calipers.
They are somewhat bigger than the 1st
gens.
If you plan to race it, then you'll need something more drastic, like
the Big Red conversion kit that puts calipers from a Porsche twin turbo up front
($1500).
Rich/slow old poop>
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 02 Apr 2002 15:30:32
-0000
From: "Jeff Lucius" <
jlucius@stealth316.com>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Brakes Upgrade for 92 RT
Brake system upgrade tips and info
are on my web page below and at the Team3S
web site:
http://www.stealth316.com/2-brakeupgrade.htmJeff
Lucius,
http://www.stealth316.com/- -----
Original Message -----
From: "Calum McCusker" <
Calum@Canalytical.com>
To: "Team
3s" <
Team3S@stealth-3000gt.st>
Sent:
Tuesday, April 02, 2002 8:14 AM
Subject: Team3S: Brakes Upgrade for 92
RT
Hi all,
I want to replace the stock brakes on my 92 with something
a little more
effective. Does anyone know of any mods out there, either to
replace just the
pads with better gripping pads or do I have to replace the
whole brake unit?
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 2 Apr 2002 07:54:24
-0800 (PST)
From: menalteed <
menalteed@yahoo.com>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: running lean
Shannon I'm not sure who your dealer is but I
also
have a 92 TT, and have learned that the Chrysler, or
I should
say Dodge dealers in my area are very
unreliable and far more expensive then
they should be,
I believe that they don't know how to work on the
Stealth,
a example was when my fuel pump went out. The
dealer told me they would need
to remove the fuel tank
to get to the pump, and it would be a 900 dollar
job,
500 for the pump and four hundered for the labor. I
towed it home and
replaced it myself for under 200
dollars. Some dealers may be truthful but I
haven't
found one in my area that is yet. It sounds like you
are geting a
real runaround and if the timing belt
slipped and that caused your problem
then just who did
the timing belt last time at 60k, the same dealer.
When
he said you had a cracked turbo, it would have
been time to change both
turbos, replacing one at a
time is trouble down the road, I just relaced
both
mine including cleaning all the IC pipes and cleaning
the
inercoolers, and I'm still under $2000, my dealer
priced the repair starting
around $4000, and knowing
him that have only been the start. What you do at
this
point is run down town and file a claim against your
dealer in small
claims court.
The fact that they didn't find a cracked piston until
after
all the other repair and even then sent you on
your way saying it ran fine
makes me think you have a
very good case, I would even file a regular
case
including mental damage in a real court, talk to a
lawyer it sounds
to be you have been done wrong. By
the way anyone in the Seattle area don't
go to Bill
Pierre Dodge, I have found them highly suspicious
and
exspensive.
Peter 92 Stealth TT
13G's HKS turbo
timer
K&N air charger system
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 2 Apr 2002 10:58:06
-0500
From: "Darren Schilberg" <
dschilberg@pobox.com>
Subject: RE:
Team3S: Speed sensor
How much does this affect the readings of the
odometer/trip odometer? I
just got the picture of a lifetime and it was
ruined because of the slop
in the gearing I think. If I push the trip
odometer reset at 88,000
miles then when the upper odometer reads 88,888 then
the trip odometer
will read something like 900 miles or 894 miles. It
will NOT read 888
miles.
Is this because of the difference in speed
readings? I asked something
similar before and I don't think it was
ever answered.
The other part to the story is that I had it reset in time
but,
unknowingly, my two-year old Godson got in the car over the weekend
and
pushed all sorts of buttons ... one of them being the trip
odometer. So
my perfect picture fell short by only having 88 miles on
the trip
odometer. There is a short video clip and pictures of his
escapade that
are too darn cute but that is for a later time.
Where
can one get their speedo calibrated, etc. without driving by a DOT
"your
speed is" sign (which looks neat in triple digits mind you) or
having a cop
stop you and say, "Do you know how fast you were going?"
-
--Flash!
1995 VR-4 (6-speed)
- -----Original Message-----
From:
Wayne
Sent: Thursday, March 28, 2002 17:35
It would be better if
his wife changed her's.......for the same reason i
want to change
mine......the car racks up more miles with the fast
reading
one, and
therefore is harder to sell (if the time comes)
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 2 Apr 2002 11:05:17
-0500
From: "Furman, Russell" <
RFurman2@MassMutual.com>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: Speed sensor
Well on the East Coast, I know of 4 places
Pruven Performance in Milford
CT, AAM in Gaithersburg MD, RPM in eastern
Mass, and a 4th place in western
Mass who's name is failing me at the
moment. All of these places have AWD
Dynos :) and if my
buddy Scott can swing it his shop Triple Digit
Motorsports will be getting
one in the next couple of months :) I already
told him that
I am going to just start signing my paychecks over to him
since he ends up
with most of my money anyway :o
> -----Original
Message-----
> From: Darren Schilberg [SMTP:dschilberg@pobox.com]
>
Sent: Tuesday, April 02, 2002 10:58 AM
> To:
Team3S@stealth-3000gt.st>
Subject: RE: Team3S: Speed sensor
>
> How much does this affect the
readings of the odometer/trip odometer? I
> just got the picture of
a lifetime and it was ruined because of the slop
> in the gearing I
think. If I push the trip odometer reset at 88,000
> miles then when
the upper odometer reads 88,888 then the trip odometer
> will read
something like 900 miles or 894 miles. It will NOT read 888
>
miles.
>
> Is this because of the difference in speed
readings? I asked something
> similar before and I don't think it
was ever answered.
>
> The other part to the story is that I had it
reset in time but,
> unknowingly, my two-year old Godson got in the car
over the weekend and
> pushed all sorts of buttons ... one of them being
the trip odometer. So
> my perfect picture fell short by only having
88 miles on the trip
> odometer. There is a short video clip and
pictures of his escapade that
> are too darn cute but that is for a later
time.
>
> Where can one get their speedo calibrated, etc. without
driving by a DOT
> "your speed is" sign (which looks neat in triple digits
mind you) or
> having a cop stop you and say, "Do you know how fast you
were going?"
>
> --Flash!
> 1995 VR-4 (6-speed)
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Wayne
> Sent: Thursday,
March 28, 2002 17:35
>
> It would be better if his wife
changed her's.......for the same reason i
>
> want to change
mine......the car racks up more miles with the fast
> reading
>
one, and therefore is harder to sell (if the time comes)
***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 2 Apr 2002 10:27:43
-0600
From: "Willis, Charles E." <
cewillis@TexasChildrensHospital.org>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: Brakes Upgrade for 92 RT
Brake upgrade path:
1.
High temperature brake fluid (like Motul 650) and bleed the brakes
real
good.$
2. Upgraded pads (like Carbotech Panther Plus or many
others)$$
3. Stainless Steel brake lines (like Goodridge)$$
4.
Upgrade to 2nd generation stock front brake calipers and rotors.$$$
5.
Upgrade to big calipers and rotors (like Brembo, Porsche Big Reds, AP
6
piston calipers, etc).$$$$
Chuck Willis
There are other
things to do to improve brake cooling.
> -----Original
Message-----
> From: Calum McCusker [SMTP:Calum@Canalytical.com]
>
Sent: Tuesday, April 02, 2002 9:15 AM
> To: Team 3s
> Subject:
Team3S: Brakes Upgrade for 92 RT
>
> Hi all,
> I want to
replace the stock brakes on my 92 with something a little more
>
effective.
>
> Does anyone know of any mods out there,
>
either to replace just the pads with better gripping pads or do I have
to
> replace the whole brake unit ?
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 2 Apr 2002 10:36:53
-0600
From: "Willis, Charles E." <
cewillis@TexasChildrensHospital.org>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: Jack Stand
I've been using four 2 ton jackstands on four
different VR4's for the last
five years. I support the car under the
sill locations, but inside the sill
where the reinforced sections are.
The top of the stand is parallel to and
just inside the sill. The 2 ton
jackstands are easier to pack and transport
than the 3 ton
variety.
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 2 Apr 2002 08:42:39
-0800
From: "dakken" <
dougusmagnus@attbi.com>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: running lean
I have had a few bad experiences with mechanics
as well. I have learned the
hard way how to deal with then so they know
you are informed and keeping an
eye on then (or at least appear like you are
informed and keeping an eye on
them).
1. Always ask for a
WRITTEN estimate for every repair done on your car
before you allow work to
begin. Most states do not allow the shop to
charage more than 10% more
than the written estimate.
2. Always ask for EVERY part that is
replaced on the car. Tell the
mechanic ahead of time that you want
these parts after the repair is done
and that you will be inspecting
them. This really keeps them on their toes.
They can't replace good
parts this way and if they do you can easily prove
that they replaced a good
part. Don't let them tell you that you can't have
your old parts
back. If they do then find another mechanic.
3. When you
bring your car in, be as detailed about the problem as possible
and tell them
what you think the problem is. This only works if you have
some
mechanical skill.
4. Insist on inspecting the work and test driving
the car BEFORE paying the
bill. Don't let them tell you any garbage
about it is shop policy that you
pay the bill first so you don't drive
off. Tell them to get in the car with
you or tell them to drive with
you in the passenger seat for the test drive.
Of course you won't test drive
your car if you just had a non driving
problem fixed like your head
lights.
5. Charge the repair on a credit card that has consumer
protection. If the
mechanic did not perform the work that you asked
for, then you can have your
credit card cancel the charge. This won't
help you if they did the repair
but screwed it up or did unneccesary
work. This only protects you if they
try to charge you for work that is
not done.
A good auto shop won't mind that you are asking to do these
things. You are
within your rights as the person paying for the
work. A bad shop will give
you trouble from the start. If you
have a gut feel that says you can't
trust a shop then take your car somewhere
else.
If a shop does screw you over then first try to resolve the issue
with them
in a non-confrontational way. If this fails then try to
contact their
mechanic's supervisor and then the shop's regional office if
this fails. If
that doesn't work then make a complaint with the Bureau
of Automotive Repair
in your area. The Bureau of Automotive Repair
tries to resolve conflicts
and are pretty fair about it. If that fails
then contact the Better
Business Bureau and contact your local District
Attorney and ask for the
consumer protection department. You can also
take it to court if you think
you have a strong enough case.
Don't go
through all this trouble if the repair doesn't cost you much. Just
make
a complaint with the Bureau of Automotive Repair and the Better
Business
Bureau and then start looking for a good mechanic.
The bottom line is
that if you get a bad mechanic then it will cost you
double to fix something
(paying them to screw it up and paying someone else
to fix
it).
Doug
92 Stealth RT TT
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 2 Apr 2002 11:51:20
-0500
From: "Darren Schilberg" <
dschilberg@pobox.com>
Subject: RE:
Team3S: FW: EDFC(Electronic Damping Force Controller)
Question
Mihai,
To which part are they referring? Can they
offer the HA with a longer
thread length for those who have a hood large
enough to accept the
motor?
- --Flash!
- -----Original
Message-----
From:
owner-team3s@team3s.com
[mailto:owner-team3s@team3s.com] On Behalf
Of Mihai Raicu
Sent: Saturday,
March 30, 2002 10:06
To:
Team3S@stealth-3000gt.stSubject:
Team3S: FW: EDFC(Electronic Damping Force Controller) Question
Darn
it. TEIN says EDFC will not work on Tein HA. I guess Paul
can
report back to us on what he thinks. Here is the official
answer.
- -MIHAI-
95 Red VR4
- -----Original
Message-----
From: TEIN USA INC
Sent: Friday, March 29, 2002 8:52
PM
To:
aa2345@wayne.eduSubject: Re:
EDFC(Electronic Damping Force Controller) Question
Actually, the EDFC
will not work on the Type HA for the VR4 because
there is
not enough
thread length to screw on the motors.
Staff @ TEIN U.S.A.,
INC.
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 2 Apr 2002 09:03:25
-0800
From: "Gross, Erik" <
erik.gross@intel.com>
Subject: RE:
Team3S: running lean
> It was "chugging" at higher RPM's. The
> dealer said it was a cracked rear turbo.
What do you mean by
"chugging"? Making noises? (what kind?) Or
hesitating/bucking?
(under what conditions?)
> He proceeded to rebuild that turbo and
> clean the front turbo. That was done 2 weeks ago,
> but
then it wasn't running right, so they
> replaced the o2 sensors and
flushed the injectors.
Did they tell you WHY they replaced the O2 sensors
and flushed injectors? I
can understand the latter to treat poor
performance problems, but for gosh
sakes, they have a scan tool and can
determine if the O2 sensors are working
properly without removing them.
Maybe they did check the voltages,
though... do you know?
> I was
then supposed to pick it up but he said that the timing
> belt jumped and
would have to fix that.
Did he say how many teeth it jumped? If it
was off more than one or two
teeth, then you probably have bent valves and/or
dented pistons. If the
valves scarred the piston tops, this could
increase the chances of
detonation and that could definitely crack a piston
if someone drove it
hard. If the timing belt jumped, the valves got
bent, and the dealer just
put the timing belt back on, then your car would
definitely run poorly.
Have you or the dealer done a compression check or a
leakdown test? If the
timing belt skipped/broke, I'd expect that any
good mechanic would do a
leakdown/compression test as one of the first
things. Did they?
> I immediately pulled back into the
dealer. At first he said
> it was likely because they shampooed the
engine and needed
> time to dry.
I suppose, maybe, possibly that
could be part of the issue, but our cars
don't have distributors and most of
the electronic stuff is protected
(except from direct hits from a pressure
washer). I've cleaned my engine
bay many, many times and it's never
acted funny afterwards.
> THE PROBLEM, they say, is after scooping the
engine, the rear
> drivers side piston, was running lean. He
noticed blackening
> in the cylinder therefore, it was doing it for some
time, he said.
Ok, maybe I'm missing something here, but black stuff
(carbon build-up) is
generally a result of running RICH, not lean. Guys
correct me if I'm wrong
here... Running lean can lead to detonation,
which can lead to cracked
pistons; but it does not (in my understanding) lead
to carbon deposits.
Scarred pistons from jumped timing belts could also cause
detonation which
could result in cracked pistons, too... Also, AFAIK,
cylinder #2 isn't the
one to commonly run lean or have detonation before the
others - it's usually
#4 or #6 that I've heard about, unless it's *all* of
them simultaneously and
it was 24psi on pump gas.
> The top of
the piston is cracked because of it and needs
> replacing. I
personally find this about as fishy as
> Lake Michigan,
Based on
your story, I'd be a little worried about this dealer. Sounds
like
they've already given you a few lines... do you have any other
options for
reputable shops in your area?
- --Erik
***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 2 Apr 2002 12:15:04
-0500
From: "Darren Schilberg" <
dschilberg@pobox.com>
Subject: RE:
Team3S: Jack Stand
Also, remember that no Engineer in their right mind
will design a 2-ton
jack stand to withstand exactly 2-tons before
failing. There is always
a FS (factor of safety). I bet for a
jack stand it is at least 1.5-2.0
so I'm sure they can withstand shock loads
of 4 tons for a few moments
or minutes or maybe a few hours but they should
be replaced. Our cars
have a curb weight of under 4,000 pounds so one
stand can hold it. Four
2-ton jack stands is more than sufficient and
since not many places sell
1-ton stands the choice is obvious.
For
those guys doing 6-month extended work on the car, moving it side to
side
when torquing things on and off perhaps a larger 3-ton is
recommended or
another round of four 2-ton stands on each corner or in
other
places.
Stands are cheap. Life is not. Think smart.
-
--Flash!
1995 VR-4
3-ton floor jack, four 2-ton jack stands from Sears ...
about $120
- -----Original Message-----
From: Willis, Charles
E.
Sent: Tuesday, April 02, 2002 11:37
I've been using four 2
ton jackstands on four different VR4's for the
last
five years. I
support the car under the sill locations, but inside the
sill
where the
reinforced sections are. The top of the stand is parallel
to
and
just inside the sill. The 2 ton jackstands are easier to pack
and
transport
than the 3 ton variety.
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 2 Apr 2002 11:17:50
-0600
From: "Morice, Francis" <
francis.morice@retek.com>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: Jack Stand
Whenever I find myself under my car, 4 3 ton
jackstands up front and 2 2 ton
jackstands in the rear. Maybe overkill,
but I am no going to chance
anything while I'm under there.
Just my
.02.....
Francis
'96 RT/TT
- -----Original
Message-----
From: Darren Schilberg [mailto:dschilberg@pobox.com]
Sent:
Tuesday, April 02, 2002 11:15 AM
To:
Team3S@stealth-3000gt.stSubject:
RE: Team3S: Jack Stand
Also, remember that no Engineer in their right
mind will design a 2-ton
jack stand to withstand exactly 2-tons before
failing. There is always
a FS (factor of safety). I bet for a
jack stand it is at least 1.5-2.0
so I'm sure they can withstand shock loads
of 4 tons for a few moments
or minutes or maybe a few hours but they should
be replaced. Our cars
have a curb weight of under 4,000 pounds so one
stand can hold it. Four
2-ton jack stands is more than sufficient and
since not many places sell
1-ton stands the choice is obvious.
For
those guys doing 6-month extended work on the car, moving it side to
side
when torquing things on and off perhaps a larger 3-ton is
recommended or
another round of four 2-ton stands on each corner or in
other
places.
Stands are cheap. Life is not. Think smart.
-
--Flash!
1995 VR-4
3-ton floor jack, four 2-ton jack stands from Sears ...
about $120
- -----Original Message-----
From: Willis, Charles
E.
Sent: Tuesday, April 02, 2002 11:37
I've been using four 2 ton
jackstands on four different VR4's for the
last
five years. I
support the car under the sill locations, but inside the
sill
where the
reinforced sections are. The top of the stand is parallel
to
and
just inside the sill. The 2 ton jackstands are easier to pack
and
transport
than the 3 ton variety.
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 2 Apr 2002 09:17:07
-0700
From: "Mike & Cathy" <
micajoco@theofficenet.com>
Subject:
Team3S: bov
I'am looking to replace my stock bov with after market
product. Motor is
stock except with gutted pre-cats and test pipe, also k/n
filter. What bov
would be best? Most of the talk on the list were about bov
and up graded
turbos. Any opinions on Turboxs bov?
Mike S 92 rt tt Wash
St
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 2 Apr 2002 11:34:02
-0600
From: "Willis, Charles E." <
cewillis@TexasChildrensHospital.org>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: bov
The Boschur DSM BOV works just fine for me and my son's
VR4's.
> Any opinions on Turboxs bov?
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 2 Apr 2002 10:03:49
-0800
From: "Geddes, Brian J" <
brian.j.geddes@intel.com>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: Re: Rear bank O2 sensor replacement
Jeff -
Thanks for
the sanity check. I'm pretty sure I tapped the right lines - #75
and
#76. The first time I tried it I accidentally tapped the
Throttle
Closed Position sensor, (87, which is directly across form 76), so I
was
pretty careful the second time around.
The sensor gives of a
little bit of voltage (~.02 at idle to ~.08 at WOT),
so I think the ECU
thinks the rear bank is running very lean all the time.
It seemed like a good
explaination for my poor gas mileage and constantly
rich exhaust...any other
ideas?
My plan was to swap the downstream sensor with the upstream
sensor, rather
than buying a new one. If it's a pain to get at the
upstream rear bank
sensor though, I'll just replace it with a new one.
Do I have to take a lot
of stuff off to get at it?
Thanks,
- -
Brian
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Jeff Lucius
[mailto:jlucius@stealth316.com]
> Sent: Tuesday, April 02, 2002 6:21
AM
> To:
Team3S@stealth-3000gt.st>
Subject: Team3S: Re: Rear bank O2 sensor replacement
>
>
>
Brian,
>
> Before tackling an O2 sensor replacement, especially if
no
> check engine light
> is on, be sure you tapped the correct
wire for the rear
> upstream O2 sensor and
> that the tap is good.
The best I can tell without owning a
> '94 VR4 is that ECU
> pin
#75 is the front upstream sensor and #76 is the rear
> upstream sensor.
> Corrections are appreciated for the table on my web page below.
>
>
http://www.stealth316.com/2-ecu94.htm>
> Jeff Lucius,
http://www.stealth316.com/>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Geddes, Brian J" <
brian.j.geddes@intel.com>
>
To: "Starnet Mailing List (E-mail)" <
stealth@stls.verio.net>;
>
"Team3S Mailing
> List (E-mail)" <
team3s@stealth-3000gt.st>
>
Sent: Monday, April 01, 2002 6:28 PM
> Subject: Team3S: Rear bank O2
sensor replacement
> <snip>
> I recently installed an Apexi
S-AFC, and used a couple of the
> unused lines
> to monitor my O2
sensor voltages. Front bank looks good in
> closed loop
>
mode, but the rear bank constantly shows < .1 volts.
>
<snip>
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 2 Apr 2002 10:23:01
-0800 (PST)
From: Shane Thoms <
shanethoms@yahoo.com>
Subject: RE:
Team3S: bov
Just got my TurboX BOV. Looks sweet. On the
bench
now, tested to ~20psi with no adjustments needed.
(has washers to
stiffen the spring). VERY nice,
machined aluminum bods, brass plunger
that acts as the
valve and diaphram. Can get some shots of it if
you
like. Also looks like with the included adapter with
the race
series, that it will drop right in for the
OEM.
Shane
- ---
"Willis, Charles E."
<
cewillis@TexasChildrensHospital.org>
wrote:
> The Boschur DSM BOV works just fine for me and my
> son's
VR4's.
>
> > Any opinions on Turboxs bov?
***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 2 Apr 2002 19:53:23
+0100
From: "Martin" <
martinberkley@blueyonder.co.uk>
Subject:
Team3S: Running problem
Hello everyone
I have just koined the list and
have a question already.
I have a 92 3000gto Twin Turbo and it has been
perfect for the last 3 years
but at the weekend it developed a strange
problem.
I started it up and it ran for about 200 yds and cut out, i then
restarted
it immediatly and moved off
for about another 200 yds and it cut
out again, it felt like it had run out
of fuel but there was half a
tank.
it did this four times before i called out the flatbed to get me
home.
Since then the car jusst spins over and sometimes very nearly fires
but
doesn't.
There has been no changes to the car and the only mod is a
K&N
filtercharger.
Anyone had a similar experience they can shed some
light on where i should
start looking?
BTW no warning lights came on at
the time.
Regards
Martin
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 2 Apr 2002 13:56:47
-0500
From: "Furman, Russell" <
RFurman2@MassMutual.com>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: Running problem
Sounds like a fuel system problem, check the
pump and see if it is getting
power, then check the pump itself. f it
is the pump good opportunity to
upgrade to the Walborogh 255lph
pump.
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Martin
[SMTP:martinberkley@blueyonder.co.uk]
> Sent: Tuesday, April 02, 2002 1:53
PM
> To:
team3s@stealth-3000gt.st>
Subject: Team3S: Running problem
>
> Hello everyone
> I have
just koined the list and have a question already.
> I have a 92 3000gto
Twin Turbo and it has been perfect for the last 3
> years
> but at
the weekend it developed a strange problem.
> I started it up and it ran
for about 200 yds and cut out, i then restarted
> it immediatly and moved
off
> for about another 200 yds and it cut out again, it felt like it had
run
> out
> of fuel but there was half a tank.
> it did this
four times before i called out the flatbed to get me home.
> Since then
the car jusst spins over and sometimes very nearly fires but
>
doesn't.
> There has been no changes to the car and the only mod is a
K&N
> filtercharger.
> Anyone had a similar experience they can
shed some light on where i should
> start looking?
> BTW no warning
lights came on at the time.
> Regards
> Martin
***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 02 Apr 2002 12:58:16
-0600
From: "
merritt@cedar-rapids.net" <
merritt@cedar-rapids.net>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Running problem
Sounds to me like you blew off the Y
pipe.
Were you running it hard? If so, it's an easy
fix.
Rich
>I started it up and it ran for about 200 yds and cut
out, i then restarted
>it immediatly and moved off
>for about
another 200 yds and it cut out again, it felt like it had run out
>of fuel
but there was half a tank.>
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 2 Apr 2002 21:15:09
+0200
From: "Roger Gerl" <
roger.gerl@bluewin.ch>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Running problem
> Sounds like a fuel system problem, check
the pump and see if it is getting
> power, then check the pump
itself. f it is the pump good opportunity to
> upgrade to the
Walborogh 255lph pump.
Not really a fuel problem (maybe in third place).
More often in this age the
mass air sensor (the box where the filter is
mounted to) decides to die. The
effect is then a crappy idle but may die
after a few meters as the engine
control unit doesn't receive an increasing
or even a valid air flow signal.
Second possible reason - it may sound
strange - old terminals on the
battery. Remove the contacts and clean the
posts and terminals. Reconnect
them and try again. On some this cured the
problem.
Third possible reason : the fuel pump relay below the MAS senosr
housing.
The contacts often corrode and when it should switch on the result
may be a
short and then shuts off the engine or causes the pump to stop
running. The
relay can be removed fro mthe socket and everything can easily
be cleaned
with electrical grease or special cleaner.
Forth possible
reason - clogged fuel filter - is doubtful as then you'd even
have problems
at startup.
Maybe others can give more input.
Good
luck
Roger
93'3000GT TT
www.rtec.ch*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 2 Apr 2002 14:48:30
-0500
From: "Bill vp" <
billvp@highstream.net>
Subject:
Team3S: base timing on '91 Stealth turbo?
could someone please help me
out on this really quickly?
thanks,
Bill
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 2 Apr 2002 12:08:17
-0800 (PST)
From: menalteed <
menalteed@yahoo.com>
Subject:
Team3S: Fuel line rock shield
I'm becoming very frustrated today under
the car
trying to change the fuel line. The problem is in my
service
manual they show
the rock shield being held up with three clips, held
on
by 12mm nuts. That is all they show but near each
nut there is a stud that
holds a clip on the top side of the rock shield that
holds a separation
block for the different fuel lines.
My complete frustration is
how do I
get the top clips off, the book doesn't even
show them and the stud that
seems to hold it on has no
way to turn it or
put a wrench on it or
anything that I can figure out
to remove the top clip. I even tried a
allen wrench
and channel locks but
nothing. I have put my hand up on top
of the rock
shield and it seems that maybe it has a slotted top
but there
is just no way to
get at it. If anyone has done this before or knows
how
to solve this problem it would be of great help. I
have tried
everything, even spent about a hour now
going through the search
pages.
dam service manual doesn't help at all. I need to
keep
working on it today but at my wits end.
peter 92 Stealth
TT
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 2 Apr 2002 12:24:09
-0800
From: "Hans Hortin" <
hanshortin@37.com>
Subject: Team3S:
History
Hello
I have bougt a car from Gabriella Lopez in Miami
2000.
I have tried to trace it from Sweden.
How many owners and
other papers.In Europe they can only see
that the car come from US.
I see
that a ES is not a real Dodge. Very cheep on the US net.
Is it possible to
trace it from US or can you help me get a www. adress.
Dodge Stealth ES
1991
JB3XD54B3MY05231
Hans
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 2 Apr 2002 22:33:19
+0200
From: "Roger Gerl" <
roger.gerl@bluewin.ch>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: History
What do you hope to get out of the history of the car
? Any damage report or
do you have a serious problem
?
Roger
93'3000GT TT
www.rtec.ch> I have bougt a car from
Gabriella Lopez in Miami 2000.
> I have tried to trace it from
Sweden.
> How many owners and other papers.In Europe they can only
see
> that the car come from US.
> I see that a ES is not a real
Dodge. Very cheep on the US net.
> Is it possible to trace it from US or
can you help me get a www. adress.
>
> Dodge Stealth ES 1991
>
JB3XD54B3MY05231
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 02 Apr 2002 14:30:14
-0700
From: Wayne <
whietala@prodigy.net>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: Fuel line rock shield
The fuel lines probably have to be removed
before the top parts will come out.
At 12:08 PM 4/2/02 -0800,
menalteed wrote:
>I'm becoming very frustrated today under the
car
>trying to change the fuel line. The problem is in my
>service
manual they show
>the rock shield being held up with three clips,
held
>on by 12mm nuts. That is all they show but near each
>nut
there is a stud that
>holds a clip on the top side of the rock shield
that
>holds a separation block for the different fuel lines.
>My
complete frustration is
>how do I get the top clips off, the book doesn't
even
>show them and the stud that seems to hold it on has no
>way to
turn it or
>put a wrench on it or anything that I can figure out
>to
remove the top clip. I even tried a allen wrench
>and channel locks
but
>nothing. I have put my hand up on top of the rock
>shield and
it seems that maybe it has a slotted top
>but there is just no way
to
>get at it. If anyone has done this before or knows how
>to solve
this problem it would be of great help. I
>have tried everything, even
spent about a hour now
>going through the search pages.
>dam service
manual doesn't help at all. I need to
>keep working on it today but
at my wits end.
>
>peter 92 Stealth TT
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 2 Apr 2002 13:34:45
-0800
From: "fastmax" <
fastmax@cox.net>
Subject: Re: Team3S:
Fuel line rock shield
I haven't done it but I took a look at the CAPS
program and they
show two spreaders for the lines held together with a nut
and
bolt or screw. It's hard to tell from the picture but it may be a
Phillips head --- it doesn't look like it does anything but hold the
two
halves of the spreader together. It looks like if you remove the
nut the
bottom half of the spreader should come off and then the
top half with the
bolt/screw should come off. Maybe it's being
held by undercoat or rust
?!?!?!?!
Let us know if it's a trick, I'm going to be doing that in the
not to
distant future.
Jim
Berry
==========================================
- ----- Original
Message -----
From: "menalteed" <
menalteed@yahoo.com>
> I'm
becoming very frustrated today under the car
> trying to change the fuel
line. The problem is in my
> service manual they show
> the rock
shield being held up with three clips, held
> on by 12mm nuts. That is all
they show but near each
> nut there is a stud that
> holds a clip
on the top side of the rock shield that
> holds a separation block for the
different fuel lines.
> My complete frustration is
> how do I get
the top clips off, the book doesn't even
> show them and the stud that
seems to hold it on has no
> way to turn it or
> put a wrench on it
or anything that I can figure out
> to remove the top clip. I even
tried a allen wrench
> and channel locks but
> nothing. I have put
my hand up on top of the rock
> shield and it seems that maybe it has a
slotted top
> but there is just no way to
> get at it. If anyone
has done this before or knows how
> to solve this problem it would be of
great help. I
> have tried everything, even spent about a hour now
>
going through the search pages.
> dam service manual doesn't help at
all. I need to
> keep working on it today but at my wits
end.
>
> peter 92 Stealth TT
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 2 Apr 2002 13:43:57
-0800 (PST)
From: menalteed <
menalteed@yahoo.com>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: Fuel line rock shield
It looks to be that in order to get it off
the way the
engineers figered you have to remove all the fuel
lines and
the brake lines or what ever the other two
lines are and drop it to the
ground then you can
remove the top spreader, I can't believe it. I'm
not
going to do that I'm going to try and just pray it up
on the fuel line
side and try and remove the fuel line
seperate. What a bunch of bad
engineering if you ask
me.
peter 92 Stealth TT
***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 2 Apr 2002 15:46:21
-0600
From: "Jannusch, Matt" <
mjannusch@marketwatch.com>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: Fuel line rock shield
> What a bunch of bad engineering if
you ask me.
It isn't necessarily bad engineering, just that they never
figured anyone
would need to replace it. The aluminum fuel lines don't
really wear out, so
normally you wouldn't need to do any maintenance on
them.
- -Matt
'95 3000GT Spyder VR4
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 02 Apr 2002 17:53:58
-0500
From: Joe Gonsowski <
twinturbo@comcast.net>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Fuel line rock shield
Not bad engineering at all. I've
had mine down three times lately for
various installs and un-installs.
All you have to do is pivot it out of the
way. Pull the rock shield
down just far enough so you can get your fingers
in there and twist the
bracket about it's center. Hard to explain, easy to
do. If it
isn't twisting for you, bend the bracket (thin steel) away from
the lines and
then twist it so it is parallel with the lines. Once the two
brackets
are parallel with the lines, it will easily drop down. I believe
Mitsu
did this so the shield would stay in place if the small nuts and studs
rusted
away. The brackets on the top side have a protective coating
that
should always retain the rock shield.
Joe G.
- -----
Original Message -----
From: "Jannusch, Matt" <
mjannusch@marketwatch.com>
To:
"'menalteed'" <
menalteed@yahoo.com>; "tam 3S" <
Team3S@team3s.com>
Sent: Tuesday,
April 02, 2002 4:46 PM
Subject: RE: Team3S: Fuel line rock shield
>
> What a bunch of bad engineering if you ask me.
>
> It isn't
necessarily bad engineering, just that they never figured anyone
> would
need to replace it. The aluminum fuel lines don't really wear
out,
so
> normally you wouldn't need to do any maintenance on
them.
>
> -Matt
> '95 3000GT Spyder VR4
***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 2 Apr 2002 19:14:36
-0600
From: "cody" <
overclck@satx.rr.com>
Subject: RE:
Team3S: Jack Stand
Yes, I would say that's overkill... 4 2 ton
jackstands held my car in
the air for a year... No problems...
Besides, If anythingyou have 12
tons worth of holding power in the front, and
4 tons in the rear... I
would go 2 and 3 ton in the front and 2 3
tonners in the rear...
That's 10 tons front, 6 tons rear... More equal
to the weight split,
although not perfect either...
Remember all,
placement of a jackstand is more important than how much
it can hold...
Proper placement is on the rails on the sides of the
car, or solid frame
joints. Do not use the suspension as jack stand
locations...
Especially if you plan on moving the cars weight (opening
doors, getting
in/out) Also, make sure you have nice solid ground,
reinforced with
2x4's if its on dirt/grass, or its rock free if its on
concrete...
-
-Cody
- -----Original Message-----
From:
owner-team3s@team3s.com
[mailto:owner-team3s@team3s.com] On Behalf
Of Morice, Francis
Sent:
Tuesday, April 02, 2002 11:18 AM
To:
'dschilberg@pobox.com'; Team3S
(E-mail)
Subject: RE: Team3S: Jack Stand
Whenever I find myself under
my car, 4 3 ton jackstands up front and 2 2
ton
jackstands in the
rear. Maybe overkill, but I am no going to chance
anything while I'm
under there.
Just my .02.....
Francis
'96 RT/TT
-
-----Original Message-----
From: Darren Schilberg
[mailto:dschilberg@pobox.com]
Sent: Tuesday, April 02, 2002 11:15 AM
To:
Team3S@stealth-3000gt.stSubject:
RE: Team3S: Jack Stand
Also, remember that no Engineer in their right
mind will design a 2-ton
jack stand to withstand exactly 2-tons before
failing. There is always
a FS (factor of safety). I bet for a
jack stand it is at least 1.5-2.0
so I'm sure they can withstand shock loads
of 4 tons for a few moments
or minutes or maybe a few hours but they should
be replaced. Our cars
have a curb weight of under 4,000 pounds so one
stand can hold it. Four
2-ton jack stands is more than sufficient and
since not many places sell
1-ton stands the choice is obvious.
For
those guys doing 6-month extended work on the car, moving it side to
side
when torquing things on and off perhaps a larger 3-ton is
recommended or
another round of four 2-ton stands on each corner or in
other
places.
Stands are cheap. Life is not. Think smart.
-
--Flash!
1995 VR-4
3-ton floor jack, four 2-ton jack stands from Sears ...
about $120
- -----Original Message-----
From: Willis, Charles
E.
Sent: Tuesday, April 02, 2002 11:37
I've been using four 2 ton
jackstands on four different VR4's for the
last
five years. I
support the car under the sill locations, but inside the
sill
where the
reinforced sections are. The top of the stand is parallel
to
and
just inside the sill. The 2 ton jackstands are easier to pack
and
transport
than the 3 ton variety.
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 2 Apr 2002 17:27:24
-0800 (PST)
From: menalteed <
menalteed@yahoo.com>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: Fuel line rock shield
I'm not worried about the rock shield
anymore, what
I've noticed is that the main fuel line can't come out
of
the enginge compartment nor can it thread it's way
around the rear area, I
have no idea how anyone could
get this out as there is just not enough room
to do it
without wrecking the line, if you have done this
before, by that
I mean not just geting the rock shield
out of the way but removing the fuel
line and
replacing it through the up and over in the rear and
through the
channel to the engine compartment without
wrecking it, let me know it can be
done and I will do
it but I can't even get the line out of the
engine
compartemnt with out cuting it so I have no idea how a
new line
would go in, it isn't like you can slide it
back and fourth or anything.
Pleease if anyone has
been able to remove this line and replace it I
would
sure like to know the trick.
peter 92 Stealth TT
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
End of Team3S: 3000GT &
Stealth V1
#800
***************************************