Team3S: 3000GT & Stealth Monday, April 1
2002 Volume 01 : Number
799
----------------------------------------------------------------------
Date:
Sun, 31 Mar 2002 17:31:03 -0800
From: Ian Marks <
ianmarks@2xtreme.net>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: Ski rack
My two cents. . .
Get a receiver hitch and then
you can use a Rhode Gear bike rack - which has
a Ski rack adapter - nothing
touches the car and you can even tow a small
trailer if you want. .
.
> From: "Roger Gerl" <
roger.gerl@bluewin.ch>
>
Reply-To: "Roger Gerl" <
roger.gerl@bluewin.ch>
> Date:
Sat, 30 Mar 2002 19:09:11 +0100
> To: "Team 3S list" <
Team3S@stealth-3000gt.st>
>
Subject: Re: Team3S: Ski rack
>
> There is one from Mitsu available
here but I don't liked it. I bought a
> ski-bag, flipped down the seats
and put them in. They (3 pairs 170-203 cm
> lenght) reach the armrest but
leave enough space to be able to shift. Woked
> for me since years
:)
>
> Roger
> 93'3000GT TT
>
www.rtec.ch>
>> Can anybody
recommend a ski rack?
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Sun, 31 Mar 2002 20:12:36
-0600
From: "Jannusch, Matt" <
mjannusch@marketwatch.com>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: timing
> I just checked the timing on my 91 Stealth R/T
with
> a timing light. it seemed to me that the timing
> mark
jumped around a lot (from about 16 BTDC to 20)
> while at idle. Is
that normal in our cars. I have
> checked the timing on other cars
and the the mark
> is always pretty steady. Any ideas?
You need to
disable the ECU's dynamic timing advance when checking timing.
Detailed
instructions are in the factory service manual.
Essentially you need to
ground the brown test connector near the battery and
you should see
consistent readings with your timing light. The spec is 5
degrees BTDC
+- 2 degrees. The adjustment is made by rotating the crank
angle
sensor.
- -Matt
'95 3000GT Spyder VR4
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 01 Apr 2002 05:13:56
+0000
From:
apedenko@attbi.comSubject: Team3S:
Somewhat OT: Flow impedence
Okay, so here's the question - if there are
two pipes
flowing an equal amount of gas at equal speeds, temps,
etc.,
does merging them into a single pipe of large
enough diameter cause extra
turbulance and thus impede
flow at the merge?
Example to clear up the
confusing mess of a run-on
above -
1. Exhaust - we have roughly the
same amount of air
coming out from each compressor and then merging at the
dp. Pipe size considerations aside, is it better to
have the merged dp
go to the back, or have two DPs?
2. Intake - the Y-pipe - roughly equal
amounts of air
merging in at the Y-pipe. Same q - is it better to try
and go through the hassle of isolating each cylinder
bank from the other
and having each turbo feed separate
banks, or is the way it is now
fine?
The question is this - granted the dual-dp exhaust
isn't much
more expensive than a regular one. But
reworking the plenum to keep the two
flows separate
would be pretty costly. If there is a gain, is it worth
it?
Alex
'95 Vr4 - starting the long journey towards a
"3-liter
Diablo eater". Might as well do it right the first time
around.
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Sun, 31 Mar 2002 18:35:21
-0800
From: "Riyan Mynuddin" <
riyan@hotpop.com>
Subject: RE: Team3S:
91 stealth rt tt wont start
Jim-
Check your whole fuel delivery
system and make sure your timing belt didn't
jump any teeth. It could even be
the ECU, so maybe you can borrow someone
else's. My 93 rt tt is doing the
exact same thing right now and I found out
that the fuel delivery system is
shorted. I'll let you know if there's any
new developments. Good
luck,
Riyan
- -----Original Message-----
From:
owner-team3s@team3s.com
[mailto:owner-team3s@team3s.com]On Behalf
Of jim dewbre
Sent: Sunday,
March 31, 2002 12:14 PM
To:
Team3S@stealth-3000gt.stSubject:
Team3S: 91 stealth rt tt wont start
I have a 91 stealth twin turbo rt
that will not start. I have replaced the
computer,crank angle sensor.
coil,plugs and wires,stillcant get fire to the
plugs. anyone have any ideas
what else it could be.
Jim Dewbre
meadow,TX
***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 1 Apr 2002 02:12:47
-0500
From: "Infernalist" <
baali@wwnet.net>
Subject: Team3S:
Clutch
Hey all, Im in the process of putting a clutch and aluminum
flywheel on now.
Im going to order the clutch im thinking tomorrow or tuesday
after I shop it
a bit. Im looking at the RPS Max Series full face clutch, but
not sure if
there is a better less expensive clutch out there. my mod list is
below, add
to that the fidanza flywheel and hopefully 15g's +fuel system,
this is a
daily driver so ill need the full face clutch. the best price i got
on the
rps Max Series full face was 500 (sigh) anyone have any info on
this as im
hoping to get in on the 15g turbo buy on 3si and dont want to
spend all that
cash on the clutch, if i can save anything it would help
towards the turbos
:) also, im changing my synchros (anyone have some for
sale?) and was
wondering if anyone knows of a walkthrough for that? Im a bit
nervous about
opening the tranny and would appreciate any help on that,
thanks in
advance!!!
Ron
92 RT TT
newest mods
Jack
stands, 3rd peg high
new weight reduction mod.
removed tranny and saved
over 100lbs!!!
1992 RT/TT
Apexi AVC-R (.95 Bar)
Gutted Rear
Precat
TurboXS H-RFL BOV
DN Performance Y-Pipe
Stillen DownPipe
8mm
Wires
Autometer Boost Gauge on A-pillar
K&N FIPK
Lead Foot <----
That mod was free ;)
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Sun, 31 Mar 2002 23:55:12
-0800
From: "dakken" <
dougusmagnus@attbi.com>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Somewhat OT: Flow impedence
1. On the exhaust side you
want them to merge into a single pipe. This
allows the exhaust shock
waves to benefit both sides of the engine, clearing
out more gasses. It
also allows each side to share the mufflers if you are
using a duel
exhaust.
2. On the intake it depends on how you are planning on
running your engine.
Isolating each cylinder will give you more intake
velocity at lower rpms but
will be a restriction to intake at higher
rpms. The oposite is true if you
have a more open intake manafold where
all the cyliners are drawing from a
common pool. You will have lower
velocity at low rpms but you will have
plenty of air for the higher
rpms.
Doug
92 Stealth RT TT
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 1 Apr 2002 02:39:31
-0600
From: "cody" <
overclck@satx.rr.com>
Subject: RE:
Team3S: ABS System
I bought a used one for $200 when mine started
leaking.
I did all the labor to replace mine myself in about 2 hours,
coulda been
1.5, but had to get a 12mm socket which I somehow
misplaced...
- -Cody
- -----Original Message-----
From:
owner-team3s@team3s.com
[mailto:owner-team3s@team3s.com] On Behalf
Of Jeff Lucius
Sent: Saturday,
March 30, 2002 10:40 AM
To:
team3s@stealth-3000gt.stSubject:
Re: Team3S: ABS System
If that is really what is wrong and that price
includes installation,
then the
price is reasonable. You can look up
estimates of list prices for many
parts
including the ABS components on
my two web pages below (these are the
Mitchell
Collision Estimating
Guides for our cars).
http://www.stealth316.com/2-mitchell.htm
(3000GT)
http://www.stealth316.com/2-mitchell-s.htm
(Stealth)
The ABS Hydaulic unit lists in the $2350-2650 range. I have not
replaced
this
unit, but would not hesitate to try a remove and replace if
I needed to
replace mine. You might shop around for a used one. These sort
of "big
ticket"
parts can be the last ones to go for people parting out
their cars
depending
on their prices. I list many used parts yards
specializing in our cars
on the
Garage Page at my web site. Discount
dealers for new parts are listed
there
also.
Jeff Lucius,
http://www.stealth316.com/-
---------- Original Message -------------
Subject: Team3S: ABS
System
Date: Sat, 30 Mar 2002 09:03:02 -0500
From: Danno <
palermod@pilot.msu.edu>
To:
stealth@starnet.netHappy
Easter to You All -
If I could ask for a little advice...
I was
just informed by my Mits dealer that my ABS "hydraulic pump" (or
something
like that) was bad and it would cost $2000 plus to fix it.
The ABS
system
was coming on for no apparent reason with minimal pressure on the
break
pedal.
Can someone educate me a bit about this, and give me an idea
as to
whether this
estimate is realistic? Also, is this a repair
that someone with modest
mechanical skills could undertake?
I had been
running the car with the ABS fuse removed with no problems,
but it
would
be nice to have the car 'whole' if you know what I mean...
Thanks for
your help!
- - Dan
'95 VR4
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 1 Apr 2002 14:30:18
+0200
From: Jim Matthews <
jim@the-matthews.com>
Subject: RE:
Team3S: Running Flat Out for 50 miles
> So, why all the concern about
overheating? Has someone actually
> had their car overheat on long highway
runs in 6th gear? How
> about the three of you that run consistently high
speeds on the
> Autobahn (Roger, Mikael, Jim)?
I have NEVER seen
the temp gauge budge, even during dyno runs where the
car was held at max
power.
I remember a discussion about Rich's overheating problems while
racing,
but I don't recall any others that had the same problem. I
believe that
discussion was before he discovered that his engine had
mods...
Jim Matthews - Munich, Germany
mailto:jim@the-matthews.com (64 Kbps
ISDN)
http://www.the-matthews.com***
3000GT-Stealth International (3Si) Member #0030
***
http://www.the-matthews.com/stealth.htmlJet
Black '94 Dodge Stealth R/T Twin-Turbo AWD AWS 6-spd
Adjustable Active
Suspension, Adjustable Exhaust System
K&N FIPK, A'PEXi Super AVC-R v.1
(1.0 bar @ 64% BADC)
A'PEXi Turbo Timer (30 sec), Blitz Super Blow-Off
Valve
Magnecore spark plug wires, Optima Red Top 830 Battery
Redline synth
fluids (trans= MT-90, xfer & diff= SPHvy)
Cryoed rotors, R4S pads,
braided lines, red calipers
Michelin Pilot XGT-Z4 245/45ZR17, Top Speed: 171
mph
G-Tech Pro: 0-60 4.79 sec, 1/4 13.16 sec @ 113.9 mph
1 Feb 99 Dyno
Session: 367 SAE HP, 354 lb-ft torque
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 01 Apr 2002 15:01:13
-0000
From: "Jeff Lucius" <
jlucius@stealth316.com>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Somewhat OT: Flow impedence
For 1. below:
Just so there is
no confusion, there are no "exhaust shock waves" after the
turbos. All the
exhaust from 3 cylinders first went through a hole about 1" in
diameter,
then went through either the turbine blades or another hole about 1"
in
diameter. Bye-bye "shock waves", hello backpressure!
For 2.
below.
Under boost, pressure is building up in the plenum/manifold.
"High-velocity"
air flow is not as critical for forced induction engines as
it is for the
unfortunate ones (normally aspirated) to insure complete
filling (as possible)
of the cylinders. At low RPM (or any RPM) and *no
boost* - who cares? :)
Jeff Lucius,
http://www.stealth316.com/- -----
Original Message -----
From: "dakken" <
dougusmagnus@attbi.com>
To:
<
team3s@team3s.com>
Sent:
Monday, April 01, 2002 12:55 AM
Subject: Re: Team3S: Somewhat OT: Flow
impedence
1. On the exhaust side you want them to merge into a
single pipe. This
allows the exhaust shock waves to benefit both sides
of the engine, clearing
out more gasses. It also allows each side to
share the mufflers if you are
using a duel exhaust.
2. On the
intake it depends on how you are planning on running your engine.
Isolating
each cylinder will give you more intake velocity at lower rpms but
will be a
restriction to intake at higher rpms. The oposite is true if you
have a
more open intake manafold where all the cyliners are drawing from a
common
pool. You will have lower velocity at low rpms but you will have
plenty
of air for the higher rpms.
Doug
92 Stealth RT TT
***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 1 Apr 2002 09:02:33
-0600
From: "Willis, Charles E." <
cewillis@TexasChildrensHospital.org>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: Running Flat Out for 50 miles
cruising at high speeds for
long periods and driving on a road coarse where
you are constantly braking
and accelerating are two different things. I
don't think a dyno run
compares either. Others besides Rich have seen this.
I have seen it
once in my 2nd gen VR4 when I was driving extremely
agreesively to run down a
poorly driven Ferrari. It was rather warm at the
track that day
also. I had an overheating problem in my first gen VR4, but
it was
caused by a slight leak in the upper radiator hose where it connects
to the
thermostat housing.
Chuck Willis
> -----Original
Message-----
> From: Jim Matthews [SMTP:jim@the-matthews.com]
>
Sent: Monday, April 01, 2002 6:30 AM
> To:
Team3S@stealth-3000gt.st>
Subject: RE: Team3S: Running Flat Out for 50 miles
>
> > So, why
all the concern about overheating? Has someone actually
> > had their
car overheat on long highway runs in 6th gear? How
> > about the three
of you that run consistently high speeds on the
> > Autobahn (Roger,
Mikael, Jim)?
>
> I have NEVER seen the temp gauge budge, even
during dyno runs where the
> car was held at max power.
>
> I
remember a discussion about Rich's overheating problems while racing,
>
but I don't recall any others that had the same problem. I believe
that
> discussion was before he discovered that his engine had
mods...
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 01 Apr 2002 07:04:09
-0800
From: "Andrew D. Woll" <
awoll1@pacbell.net>
Subject: Team3S:
DRive shaft (Propeller shaft) loose problem
Hi List - While under my car
this weekend I noticed that there is about half
an inch of freeplay on my
driveshaft. In looking at the manual I see
references to a "lobro Joint". I
can't, however, figure out where this is.
Anyone have any insight into this
problem? I think it explains why I hear a
clunck when I put it in reverse and
I would like to fix it.
Andy
- ----- Original Message -----
From:
"dakken" <
dougusmagnus@attbi.com>
To:
<
team3s@team3s.com>
Sent:
Sunday, March 31, 2002 11:55 PM
Subject: Re: Team3S: Somewhat OT: Flow
impedence
> 1. On the exhaust side you want them to merge into a
single pipe. This
> allows the exhaust shock waves to benefit both
sides of the engine,
clearing
> out more gasses. It also allows
each side to share the mufflers if you
are
> using a duel
exhaust.
>
> 2. On the intake it depends on how you are
planning on running your
engine.
> Isolating each cylinder will give
you more intake velocity at lower rpms
but
> will be a restriction to
intake at higher rpms. The oposite is true if
you
> have a more
open intake manafold where all the cyliners are drawing from a
> common
pool. You will have lower velocity at low rpms but you will have
>
plenty of air for the higher rpms.
>
> Doug
> 92 Stealth RT
TT
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 1 Apr 2002 07:37:30
-0800
From: "fastmax" <
fastmax@cox.net>
Subject: Team3S: SOHC
piston
Anybody out there have a picture of a SOHC
piston.
Jim
Berry
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 1 Apr 2002 10:08:18
-0800 (PST)
From: menalteed <
menalteed@yahoo.com>
Subject:
Team3S: Compression pressure check cold engine
My service manual sugests
that compression check
should be done on a warm engine. My problem is I
want
to do a compression check on a engine that has been
sitting for
several months. All the belts are conected
but no electrical at this time,
think of it as a junk
yard test. The question I have are can this be done
by
hand turning the engine, is that possible and how
would I go about
doing it? I also would like to know
what would be a good compression reading
on a cold
engine DOHC 92 twin turbo with 83K. It would be
helpful to know
which way the rotation should be
facing the belts on the drivers side. I'm
not a auto
mechanic so try and keep it simple, although I'm good
with
tools, as I 've been a electrician for many years
and have done many machine
special one of a kind parts
and of course we relay on torque on many
aplications
and use many power tools, pipe benders and that sort
of
thing.
peter 92 stealth twin turbo.
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 1 Apr 2002 12:18:01
-0600
From: "Geisel, Brian" <
Brian.Geisel@COMPAQ.com>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: oil pressure light is on
This is a really funny answer, I
know... but check your running Voltage. It could be your alternator.
I've actually got the same problem, sometimes my gauge reads low and my light
comes on at low idle speeds, but I've just changed my oil. Originally I
thought I was loosing oil, and my turbos were bad, so DARN I had to replace them
with DR500's ;)
Anyway, the NewEngland DSM list mentioned
this. On Mitsu cars generally, the oil pressure gauges have problems with
low voltages. Sure enough, I'm putting out 11V, instead of 13.8 when the
car is running. Time for a new alternator. I'm pretty sure that will
fix my oil issues as well. Just looks like a gauge w/o under voltage
protection build in ;)
geis
- -----Original Message-----
From:
Andrei Kryjevski [mailto:abk_4@hotmail.com]
Sent: Friday, March 29, 2002 3:44
PM
To:
Team3S@stealth-3000gt.stCc:
abk_4@hotmail.comSubject: Team3S: oil
pressure light is on
Hello:
250 miles after an oil change (Mobil 1
full synthetic, Champion filter, used
Chevron engine flush before the oil
change) I used a dura-lube product
called Restore on my Stealth R/T 1992
with 109000 miles.
Oil pressure warning light started coming on at idle
shortly after that when
the engine was hot (at about 1200 rpm). I drained
the oil, refilled it with
the fresh Mobil 1 oil (same filter). Problem
returned shortly.
Took it to a mechanic. They stuck in a mechanical
gauge, it read 23psi at
idle, 45 at cruising speed. But now I don't think
the engine was hot enough.
Replaced the oil warning light switch. Same
problem. The engine sounded good
as far as I can tell, mechanic also thought
so.
All this happened on a trip, so I had to drive the car 1100
miles.
I drained some oil and there was some brassy filings in it (not a
lot, but
some). Showed it to a mechanic. His response was that I shouldn't
worry too
much about it, that is in his opinion the amount of brass was
normal.
How can you tell if it is worn bearings? Any kind of specific
noise? Should
I see oil leaking anywhere?
How can you tell if it is
the failing oil pump?
Has anybody used that Restore dura-lube product?
Could it cause all this? I
heard some positive opinions about it elsewhere.
Should I flush and replace
the oil filter?
Finally, I have a leaky
oil cap. Can it possibly be it?
What else may be?
I read archives
and saw that a few people had problems of this sort but
didn't find a direct
answer.
Thank you very much.
Andrei Kryjevski.
***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 1 Apr 2002 13:32:49
-0500
From: "Zobel, Kurt" <
KURT.ZOBEL@ca.com>
Subject: RE:
Team3S: Roll Cage - Chassis
I was discussing roll cages this weekend, and
the topic of 'fitment' came up.
Just a note to check fitment access and
headroom with the Seat and Helmet
you intend to use while designing your
cages.
Especially some of the pre-fab roll cages may interfere
with
helmet clearance and head position.
Heads up,
Kurt
- -----Original Message-----
From:
griz600cc@comcast.net
[mailto:griz600cc@comcast.net]
Sent: Friday, March 29, 2002 7:30 AM
To:
Team 3S
Subject: Team3S: Roll Cage - Chassis
Since the topic of roll
cages came up before...
http://www.racetec.net/services.htm***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 1 Apr 2002 10:48:44
-0800
From: "Gross, Erik" <
erik.gross@intel.com>
Subject: RE:
Team3S: Compression pressure check cold engine
On my NA DOHC motor, the
compression was about 10psi lower when cold vs.
when warm. I generally
had to crank it about 5-10 times before the
compression reading would stop
rising, so I'd imagine this would be a big
PITA turning the engine by
hand. Unless the engine is out of the car, that
is...
-
--Erik
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 01 Apr 2002 13:38:29
-0600
From: "
merritt@cedar-rapids.net" <
merritt@cedar-rapids.net>
Subject:
Team3S: More mods
Has anyone heard anything on these
mods:
1) egr block off 5-15 hp gain
2) coolant bypass mod
5-15 hp gain
These make any sense to anybody? What are they
REALLY?
Is this just urban rumor/JC Whitney modifications, like the Kirby
vacuum cleaner mod?
Rich/slow old poop
94 VR4
***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 1 Apr 2002 14:01:12
-0600
From: "Willis, Charles E." <
cewillis@TexasChildrensHospital.org>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: More mods
There was some discussion a while back about
bolting on a plate in place of
the EGR, but I don't recall any claims about
performance improvements.
Wonder if anyone with this mod did a dyno before
and after.
Chuck
> -----Original Message-----
>
>
1) egr block off 5-15 hp gain
> 2) coolant bypass mod 5-15 hp
gain
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 1 Apr 2002 14:14:38
-0600
From: "Geisel, Brian" <
Brian.Geisel@COMPAQ.com>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: More mods
"Coolant bypass" haha, yeah, you gain about
5-15 hp to the wheels if you don't need to have the crank spin the water
pump. Good for about half of a 1/4 mi run ;)
jk - I have no idea
what that is, it just sounds amusing
geis
- -----Original
Message-----
From:
merritt@cedar-rapids.net
[mailto:merritt@cedar-rapids.net]
Sent: Monday, April 01, 2002 2:38 PM
To:
3sracers@speedtoys.com;
Team3S@stealth-3000gt.stSubject:
Team3S: More mods
Has anyone heard anything on these
mods:
1) egr block off 5-15 hp gain
2) coolant bypass mod
5-15 hp gain
These make any sense to anybody? What are they
REALLY?
Is this just urban rumor/JC Whitney modifications, like the Kirby
vacuum cleaner mod?
Rich/slow old poop
94 VR4
***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 1 Apr 2002 14:38:38
-0600
From: "Jannusch, Matt" <
mjannusch@marketwatch.com>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: More mods
> "Coolant bypass" haha, yeah, you
gain
> about 5-15 hp to the wheels if you don't
> need to have the
crank spin the water
> pump. Good for about half of a 1/4
mi
> run ;)
Actually the coolant bypass mod is to not run warm
coolant through the
throttle body, thus keeping the intake air a little
cooler. 5-15 hp - I
doubt it. Maybe a teeny-tiny amount of gain,
but probably not enough to
measure.
Same thing on the EGR blockoff
plate mod. Maybe a little gain, but not
much. Not enough to worry
about.
Now if you take your intake plenum off often (like if you use
copper plugs
instead of platinums) then maybe blocking off the EGR and not
having to hook
up that damn EGR pipe might make it more worthwhile.
:-)
- -Matt
'95 3000GT Spyder VR4
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 01 Apr 2002 20:43:51
-0000
From: "Jeff Lucius" <
jlucius@stealth316.com>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: More mods
This ebay guys sounds like a total rip-off and
demonstrates he has no
understanding of how our engines work.
As I
and others have discussed here, the coolant lines to the throttle body
circulate coolant only in a very small area where the fast idle air valve
(FIAV) is located. There is a wax "pellet" there that expands and contracts
with coolant temp to move the FIAV. There is no general circulation of
coolant
in the throttle body.
http://www.stealth316.com/images/stim/tim_14-15.gifAs
far as the EGR block off, a properly functioning EGR is CLOSED whenever the
plenum is pressurized or under WOT (any engine). Blocking it off has no
effect
on WOT performance (already closed right?). Now a blocked EGR might
keep the
plenum cleaner, but so would WI.
Stay clear of this ebay
snake oil salesman. Hmmm, salesdude? :)
Jeff Lucius,
http://www.stealth316.com/- -----
Original Message -----
From: <
merritt@cedar-rapids.net>
To:
<
3sracers@speedtoys.com>;
<
Team3S@stealth-3000gt.st>
Sent:
Monday, April 01, 2002 12:38 PM
Subject: Team3S: More mods
Has anyone
heard anything on these mods:
1) egr block off 5-15 hp gain
2) coolant bypass mod 5-15 hp gain
These make any sense to
anybody? What are they REALLY?
Is this just urban rumor/JC Whitney
modifications, like the Kirby vacuum
cleaner mod?
Rich/slow old
poop
94 VR4
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 1 Apr 2002 14:44:08
-0600
From: "Willis, Charles E." <
cewillis@TexasChildrensHospital.org>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: More mods
[Willis, Charles E.] The real advantage is
not having to fish that
damned EGR gasket out of the engine when you drop it
while re-installing the
intake plenum!
> Now if you take
your intake plenum off often (like if you use copper plugs
> instead of
platinums) then maybe blocking off the EGR and not having to
>
hook
> up that damn EGR pipe might make it more worthwhile.
:-)
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 1 Apr 2002 23:26:32
+0200
From: "Roger Gerl" <
roger.gerl@bluewin.ch>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: More mods
> 1) egr block off 5-15 hp
gain
Only gain due to lower intake temperatures, but the additional
exhaust gas
with the EGR adds this gain too. Therefore, no gain at the end.
Install an
intake temp probe and measure the temp. Then block off EGR (you
may get the
check engine light) and report the differences.
> 2)
coolant bypass mod 5-15 hp gain
I don't see a gain here. What if the
water running through the TB is already
colder than the aluminum of the heads
and intake manifold. If this is the
fact then bypassing the water lines will
cause even more heat in the intake.
Again the same procedure here by
measurign the difference.
Roger
93'3000GT TT
www.rtec.ch*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 01 Apr 2002 15:55:43
-0600
From: "
merritt@cedar-rapids.net" <
merritt@cedar-rapids.net>
Subject:
Team3S: Tech Alert
This is important!
Rich/slow old poop
FOR
IMMEDIATE RELEASE
CONTACT: Richard Schvanski, Corporate
Communications
SOUTHCOAST BELLCOM TO CLEAN PHONE AND INTERNET
ACCESS LINES
Los Angeles, CA - April 1, 2002 - Southcoast Bellcom,
a subsidiary of
PCG Communications, is preparing to join telephone companies
throughout the U.S. in a nationwide "cleaning" of all phone and
telecom
lines this Sunday.
"We do this about every 10 years," said a
Richard Schvanski,
spokesperson for the National Telephone Association.
"Over time, dust
collects in the lines and this leads to weak connections
and static,
as well as to broken and slow Internet connectivity."
To clean the lines, Schvanski said, all telephone companies will use
air compressors at their central locations in each city to blow a
blast
of air through phone lines and cable networks. The 10-minute
process will
cause dust to blow through telephone receivers, fax and
answering machines,
and both traditional PC and DSL modems in homes
and offices throughout the
U.S.
Schvanski explained that most people are being urged to set a
newspaper under their telecom device before going to bed Sunday night.
The cleaning will be done between 2 a.m. and 4 a.m. so as to disturb
as
few people as possible, he said.
In the past, the spokesperson
said, some people have put a plastic
baggy over their telephone's handset to
catch the dust, or wrapped the
handset with a cloth to keep dust from
getting on their furniture.
Cell phones, pagers, and other wireless devices
are not affected.
Customers experiencing problems should visit the
Southcoast Bellcom
Web Troubleshooting page at:
http://www.southcoastbellcom.com,1002,987asp@216.118.65.161//404/index.html
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 1 Apr 2002 16:02:12
-0600
From: "Willis, Charles E." <
cewillis@TexasChildrensHospital.org>
Subject:
Team3S: RE: 3S-Racers: Tech Alert
Happy April Fools Day to you too
Rich!
Chuck
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 1 Apr 2002 17:06:16
-0500
From: "Furman, Russell" <
RFurman2@MassMutual.com>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: Tech Alert
I smell some Bull$*** on this one.....
But hey what do I know.
Now on to list related business, does
anyone have a drivers side 1G Turbo
rear caliper for sale?
I tried to
EZ out the broken bleeder screw and well you can figure out
the
rest.....
Needless to say my neighbors brought all their kids
inside due to the nature
of the language I was speaking, and the fact I
covered 4 different languages
in the process ;)
Russ "multilingual and
didn't even know it" F
CT
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 1 Apr 2002 14:16:58
-0800 (PST)
From: menalteed <
menalteed@yahoo.com>
Subject:
Team3S: Y pipe By pass pipe for cabin heat
Does anyone know where I can
get a crome y pipe by
pass
system to I can channel the air into the cabin
for
extra heat on cold days?
peter, April 1 2002
92 stealth with a
whatsamacallit, and a rear thingamajig.
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 01 Apr 2002 14:26:44
-0800
From: Damon Rachell <
damonr@mefas.com>
Subject: Team3S: Re:
3S-Racers: Tech Alert
I'm curious how the phone company was able to get
compressed air through
the electrical connections and to the receiver of my
phone or fax. Does
this include a burst of air passing over my cell
phone? I'm often on my
phone at 2:00AM and would be caught off gaurd
if all of a sudden, i hear
this POOF.
Jim, What's today's
date?
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 01 Apr 2002 16:19:59
-0600
From: "
merritt@cedar-rapids.net" <
merritt@cedar-rapids.net>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Y pipe By pass pipe for cabin heat
I used to know the answer,
but I stored it into my computer's WOM (write only memory)
Rich
At
02:16 PM 4/1/02 -0800, menalteed wrote:
>Does anyone know where I can get
a crome y pipe by
>pass
>system to I can channel the air into the
cabin for
>extra heat on cold days?
>
>peter, April 1
2002
>92 stealth with a whatsamacallit, and a rear
thingamajig.
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 2 Apr 2002 00:28:02
+0200
From: "Roger Gerl" <
roger.gerl@bluewin.ch>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Tech Alert (ADMIN NOTICE)
First it is 1st April
and second nothing of interest for the list !
Please do NOT reply to this
topic to the list.
Roger for the Admins
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 1 Apr 2002 15:00:21
-0800
From: "Gross, Erik" <
erik.gross@intel.com>
Subject:
Team3S: Where are the intercoolers in CAPS?
Perhaps I'm just overlooking
the obvious here, but where are the
intercoolers listed in the Mitsubishi
CAPS program? I looked under intake,
turbocharger, engine, body, and
everywhere else I could think of, and no
intercooler... or anyone have
the part numbers for the stock intercoolers
handy for a '95 VR-4?
Same
goes for the front stabilizer (anti-sway) bar. I found the rear one
in
the logical location (Rear Suspension), but I can't find the front
one.
- --Erik
"Taking a 1/2" drill and an electric saw to your hood
is
heartbreaking, yet strangely satisfying..."
[yeah, I
*finally* got my @#$%$#% hood open yesterday]
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 1 Apr 2002 17:08:45
-0600
From: "Jannusch, Matt" <
mjannusch@marketwatch.com>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: Where are the intercoolers in CAPS?
> Perhaps I'm just
overlooking the obvious here, but where are
> the intercoolers listed in
the Mitsubishi CAPS program? I
> looked under intake, turbocharger,
engine, body, and
> everywhere else I could think of, and no
intercooler... or
> anyone have the part numbers for the stock
intercoolers handy
> for a '95 VR-4?
Click on the intake/exhaust
group, then group 15-410
(Turbocharger/Intercooler), then Shift-F3 a couple
times (or use the menus
on the top - (Illustration -> Next) to switch
views in that subgroup.
For a '95 the RH side should be MD162600 and LH
should be MD162601.
I still have my stock intercoolers that I took off
when I upgraded to the
HKS kit. E-mail me offline if you are interested
in those... I'm sure new
ones from Mitsu will be way
overpriced.
- -Matt
'95 3000GT Spyder VR4
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 1 Apr 2002 15:21:53
-0800
From: "Gross, Erik" <
erik.gross@intel.com>
Subject: RE:
Team3S: Where are the intercoolers in CAPS?
> Click on the
intake/exhaust group, then group 15-410
> (Turbocharger/Intercooler), then
Shift-F3 a couple times (or
> use the menus on the top - (Illustration
-> Next) to
> switch views in that subgroup.
Wow, thanks,
Matt... for anyone who uses CAPS, make note of this. I never
knew
there were "other" screens with illustrations for a
particular
subgroup.
- --Erik
[Composing spreadsheet of all the
mangled parts in my engine bay]
$600 for a hood?!!?
$82 for the little gas
shocks that hold the hood open?!?!?!
$506 for an intercooler?!?!?!
and the
list goes on... and on .... and on :(
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 1 Apr 2002 17:28:01
-0800
From: "Geddes, Brian J" <
brian.j.geddes@intel.com>
Subject:
Team3S: Rear bank O2 sensor replacement
All -
I recently
installed an Apexi S-AFC, and used a couple of the unused lines
to monitor my
O2 sensor voltages. Front bank looks good in closed loop
mode, but the
rear bank constantly shows < .1 volts. At last, an
explaination for
my poor gas mileage and rich idle!!!
How hard is it to
remove/replace O2 sensors on the rear (drivers side)? I
have a Cali
model '94 VR-4, so I have both pre and post cat. Do I need a
special
wrench or anything? Is this a job I can do in a couple of hours, or
do
I need to book more time than that?
Thanks,
- - Brian
***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
End of Team3S: 3000GT &
Stealth V1
#799
***************************************
