Team3S: 3000GT & Stealth Saturday, March 30
2002 Volume 01 : Number
797
----------------------------------------------------------------------
Date:
Fri, 29 Mar 2002 12:59:52 -0800
From: Bob Forrest <
bforrest@pacbell.net>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: N/A top speed?
- ----- Original Message -----
From: <
M3000GTSL84@aol.com>
> coming
across a magazine review of an N/A car is pretty impossible. any1
happen to
kno the top speed on a non turbo?
> -mike
-
------------------------->
The accepted numbers for (stock) Stealth
and 3000GT models are:
Turbo top speed: 156 mph
Non-turbo top speed: 145
mph
Those few of us that ever get to drive at high speed have modified
cars, so
the real top speeds we've seen are somewhat higher. Our Euro
members (only
turbos) who travel the Autobahn regularly get into the 170-180
mph area, and
there's a report of someone in Texas getting close to 200 mph
(turbo,
again). For us NT drivers, I'd guess our real limits with
slight mods would
have us around 150-160 mph. You have a '97 3k DOHC,
which is faster than my
'94 base Stealth, theoretically... With just a
K&N and wheel, tire and
suspension upgrades, we regularly travel the I-5
at a sustained 135 mph,
same as we get at the track. There's lots more
pedal left at that speed, so
I'm sure the car would do 150 if it weren't for
the fact that it wants to go
airborne at 135 - we wouldn't push it further
without ground effects mods.
For your car, with no mods, ~145 mph is probably
pretty accurate...
Best,
Forrest
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 29 Mar 2002 15:28:26
-0800
From: "Bradford J. Gay" <
bradfordjgay@charter.net>
Subject:
Team3S: Silicone Hose
I just got my new silicone hose for the intercooler
pipes. Any tips on
how to cut it and to what sizes? I've got the
DNP IC and Y-Pipes.
Also, I accidentally ordered two Blitz Super Sound BOVs,
so if anyone
wants one, I'll sell it to you at the same price I got plus
shipping.
Thanks.
- -Brad
97 VR-4
***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 29 Mar 2002 15:30:31
-0800
From: "Andrew D. Woll" <
awoll1@pacbell.net>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: oil pressure light is on
> How can you tell if it is worn
bearings? Any kind of specific noise?
Should
> I see oil leaking
anywhere?
Worn bearings come in various degrees Andre. Slight wear
usually produces no
symptoms at all. More wear may result in piston slap. A
spun bearing will
make the engine howl. You obviously have not spun a bearing
or you would not
have been able to keep driving. Bearings are not made of
brass so I doubt
this is your problem.
>
> How can you tell if it
is the failing oil pump?
Oil pumps don't really fail. They generate oil
pressure by gears coming
together with very close tolerance. If they get worn
pressure goes down
because the required tolerances are too loose. Changing to
a new oil could
produce the problem you refer to since your new oil has
different
characteristics.
>
> Has anybody used that Restore
dura-lube product?
I have used restore for years without any
problems.
Could it cause all this? I doubt it.
>
>
Finally, I have a leaky oil cap. Can it possibly be it? Maybe - why not
get a
new one.
>
> What else may be?
There are various bushings,
bearings, and valve guides in an engine that are
made of brass. Unless
something has obviously failed it is very hard to
figure out what it
is.
If I were in your shoes I would change out the oil again and put in a
mitsu
oil filter. SInce Mobil 1 seems to have caused the condition maybe
you
should try 15-40 or 20-50 in castrol, penzoil, or some other good
oil.
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 29 Mar 2002 20:03:15
-0500
From: "Jerry B." <
scorpman@optonline.net>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Water flush
i have a better way of doing this,, since you
have the Rad off,, take an air
hose,, wrap a rag around the tip of hte hose
and stick it into one of hoses.
push the air thu that system very lightely
and it will push all the water
out.,, once the water stops and all air comes
thru the other hose,, thne you
system is clean.. refill and cap.. all
done..
Leave your dollar at the door.
Jerry 92 Stealth ES and 93
Stealth RT/TT.
- ----- Original Message -----
From: "menalteed" <
menalteed@yahoo.com>
To: <
Team3S@team3s.com>
Sent: Thursday,
March 28, 2002 11:38 PM
Subject: Team3S: Water flush
> Qestion on
water flush. I'm trying to get all the
> water out of the system including
the heater and water
> pump.
> I'm thinking of removing the engine
water plug then
> cold cranking the engine with the battery until
the
> pump pushes out all the water. I have my radiator off
> at
this time. I'm thinking this would work and not
> cause any damage. I
wonder if I'm right.
>
> Peter 92 TT Stealth
***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 29 Mar 2002 20:01:03
-0500
From: "Tim & Marina Furbush" <
furbush4@netzero.net>
Subject:
Team3S: Won't Start problem found
With a cheep test light, I check the
injector pulse. No power, my ECU turn
out to be bad.
I took it to
Mitsubishi their getting me one for 650.00 out of Tampa, Fl.
Thanks for
all the help
tim
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 29 Mar 2002 19:35:21
-0800
From: "Ken Middaugh" <
kmiddaugh@ixpres.com>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: cam sensor
If your cam sensor was off by 180 degrees, then your
car shouldn't even be
starting. Should have no effect on valve
interference though. Interference
is "governed" by the relationship of
the crankshaft to the camshafts, i.e.
the timing belt and the alignment of
the cams to the crank.
- -Ken
- ----- Original Message
-----
From: "Mike & Cathy" <
micajoco@theofficenet.com>
To:
"team3s stealth-3000gt" <
team3s@stealth-3000gt.st>
Sent:
Thursday, March 28, 2002 7:26 PM
Subject: Team3S: cam sensor
>
After installing the cam sensor on #3 cam, I wondered if it could be
>
installed 180 off.
> Would there be any interference with valves if
so?
> Mike S 92 rt tt Wash St
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Sat, 30 Mar 2002 04:54:17
+0000
From:
apedenko@attbi.comSubject: Team3S:
Infinity Sound
I'm goin' to be doin some sound mods and was wondering
how do i get the infinity double-decker head unit out
of there? I don't
wanna go tearin' in there and break
something...
Thanks,
Alex.
'95 Vr4 with symmetric key marks all around
(#$^&#
vandals)
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 29 Mar 2002 21:15:47
-0800 (PST)
From: menalteed <
menalteed@yahoo.com>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: Infinity Sound
Jeff lucius has a good site that shows how to
remove
the raido, that should be a start for you. Look at the
pictures. He
also has lots of other good step by step
guides under garage section link
from his home page. I
have found it very useful.
http://www.stealth316.com/0-frames.htm***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Sat, 30 Mar 2002 05:41:57
+0000
From:
apedenko@attbi.comSubject: Re: Team3S:
Infinity Sound
Thanks, that's very helpful...
Alex.
>
Jeff lucius has a good site that shows how to remove
> the raido, that
should be a start for you. Look at the
> pictures. He also has lots of
other good step by step
> guides under garage section link from his home
page. I
> have found it very useful.
>
http://www.stealth316.com/0-frames.htm***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Sat, 30 Mar 2002 00:44:02
-0600
From: "xwing" <
xwing@wi.rr.com>
Subject: Team3S: Re:
CFDS
Jim and Russell:
I have CFDS, but report it did NOT help or
change my car's shifting behavior
at all.
IMHO, since the driveshaft is
turning at a constant speed (road speed via
gearing), what the rear shaft is
MADE of makes no difference to the
transmission, as the synchros are not
speeding up or slowing down/changing
the speed of the (post-transmission)
driveshaft--which is solidly connected
to the TIRES/ROAD! The
driveshaft simply turns. The transmission only
knows it is connected to
a turning shaft on its output. Since the shaft is
solidly connected to
the wheels, which are solidly connected to the ground,
there is no shifting
effect by changing the MATERIAL of the driveshaft.
Otherwise, we'd have
reports like "boy did my TRANSMISSION SHIFTING improve
when I changed brands
of TIRES!" etc. Yow!
CFDS with lower inertia/weight DOES slightly
improve acceleration, but since
it is such a small diameter, not as much as
one might think. I certainly
"noticed" no diference. The
flywheel, even with similar or less weight
savings, would have a
significantly greater effect on acceleration because
it is both at full
engine speed, and of larger diameter. I noted the engine
revs up/down a
little faster in neutral with lighter flywheel, but "noticed"
no sig. change
in acceleration by seat of pants.
Within the notoriously WIDE variation
in accleration/hp our cars with
"stock" computers show, varying timing etc
based on temps, humidity,
barometer, phases of moon etc, how could one
reliably really notice such
small changes? We all know how some days
our car feels like a ROCKET, then
the next day it feels sort of doggy, and
NOTHING was changed...just the good
old computer having "good and bad
days"...
JT, who is very skeptical of his OWN "butt dyno" much less
anybody elses...
:)
- ----- Original Message -----
From: "Furman,
Russell" <
RFurman2@MassMutual.com>
>
Based on this maybe the "powers that be" want to add this as a
suggested
> early mod to the car? It might be useful but hey what do
I know :/
> > -----Original Message-----
> > From: Floyd,
Jim [SMTP:Jim_Floyd@maxtor.com]
> > I am running the CFDS and it was as
significant increase in
> > performance as gutting all my cats.
>
> And everyone using it has reported improved shifting, myself
> >
included.
> > -----Original Message-----
> > From: Furman,
Russell
> > To: 'Team 3S' NOW Syncro wear
> > With so much
drag in the AWD driveline on our cars and apparently heavy
> > syncro
wear, Why are so few of us running a CFDS other than cost (its on
my
>
> buy list for this year just not sure if the budget can swing it)
It
seems
> > like this would be a beneficial upgrade from all angles
(better
> > acceleration, less curb weight, less rotational weight,
etc...)
> > Russ F
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Sat, 30 Mar 2002 19:31:26
+1200
From: "Steve Cooper" <
scooper@paradise.net.nz>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Won't Start problem found
Why don't you get it repaired. It
would be a fraction of the cost. That
price is absolutely
astronomical.
Steve
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Sat, 30 Mar 2002 06:52:50
-0500
From: "bdtrent" <
bdtrent@netzero.net>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: Re: CFDS
Well put. Unfortunately, healthy skepticism seldom
justifies the trouble
and expense of many
mods.
Regards,
DaveT/92TT
- ----- Original Message
-----
From: "xwing" <
xwing@wi.rr.com>
To: <
team3s@stealth-3000gt.st>
Sent:
Saturday, March 30, 2002 1:44 AM
Subject: Team3S: Re: CFDS
Jim and
Russell:
I have CFDS, but report it did NOT help or change my car's shifting
behavior
at all.
IMHO, since the driveshaft is turning at a constant speed
(road speed via
gearing), what the rear shaft is MADE of makes no difference
to the
transmission, as the synchros are not speeding up or slowing
down/changing
the speed of the (post-transmission) driveshaft--which is
solidly connected
to the TIRES/ROAD! The driveshaft simply turns.
The transmission only
knows it is connected to a turning shaft on its
output. Since the shaft is
solidly connected to the wheels, which are
solidly connected to the ground,
there is no shifting effect by changing the
MATERIAL of the driveshaft.
Otherwise, we'd have reports like "boy did my
TRANSMISSION SHIFTING improve
when I changed brands of TIRES!" etc.
Yow!
CFDS with lower inertia/weight DOES slightly improve acceleration, but
since
it is such a small diameter, not as much as one might think. I
certainly
"noticed" no diference. The flywheel, even with similar or
less weight
savings, would have a significantly greater effect on
acceleration because
it is both at full engine speed, and of larger
diameter. I noted the engine
revs up/down a little faster in neutral
with lighter flywheel, but "noticed"
no sig. change in acceleration by seat
of pants.
Within the notoriously WIDE variation in accleration/hp our
cars with
"stock" computers show, varying timing etc based on temps,
humidity,
barometer, phases of moon etc, how could one reliably really notice
such
small changes? We all know how some days our car feels like a
ROCKET, then
the next day it feels sort of doggy, and NOTHING was
changed...just the good
old computer having "good and bad days"...
JT,
who is very skeptical of his OWN "butt dyno" much less anybody
elses...
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Sat, 30 Mar 2002 09:03:02
-0500
From: Danno <
palermod@pilot.msu.edu>
Subject:
Team3S: ABS System
Happy Easter to You All -
If I could ask for a
little advice...
I was just informed by my Mits dealer that my ABS
"hydraulic pump" (or something
like that) was bad and it would cost $2000
plus to fix it. The ABS system was
coming on for no apparent reason
with minimal pressure on the break pedal.
Can someone educate me a bit
about this, and give me an idea as to whether this
estimate is
realistic? Also, is this a repair that someone with modest
mechanical
skills could undertake?
I had been running the car with the ABS fuse
removed with no problems, but it
would be nice to have the car 'whole' if you
know what I mean...
Thanks for your help!
- - Dan
'95
VR4
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Sat, 30 Mar 2002 08:04:17
-0700
From: "Floyd, Jim" <
Jim_Floyd@maxtor.com>
Subject: RE:
Team3S: Re: CFDS
I can only tell you what happened, not why.
-
-----Original Message-----
From: bdtrent
[mailto:bdtrent@netzero.net]
Sent: Saturday, March 30, 2002 4:53 AM
To:
Team 3S
Subject: Re: Team3S: Re: CFDS
Well put. Unfortunately,
healthy skepticism seldom justifies the trouble
and expense of many
mods.
Regards,
DaveT/92TT
- ----- Original Message
-----
From: "xwing" <
xwing@wi.rr.com>
To: <
team3s@stealth-3000gt.st>
Sent:
Saturday, March 30, 2002 1:44 AM
Subject: Team3S: Re: CFDS
Jim and
Russell:
I have CFDS, but report it did NOT help or change my car's shifting
behavior
at all.
IMHO, since the driveshaft is turning at a constant speed
(road speed via
gearing), what the rear shaft is MADE of makes no difference
to the
transmission, as the synchros are not speeding up or slowing
down/changing
the speed of the (post-transmission) driveshaft--which is
solidly connected
to the TIRES/ROAD! The driveshaft simply turns.
The transmission only
knows it is connected to a turning shaft on its
output. Since the shaft is
solidly connected to the wheels, which are
solidly connected to the ground,
there is no shifting effect by changing the
MATERIAL of the driveshaft.
Otherwise, we'd have reports like "boy did my
TRANSMISSION SHIFTING improve
when I changed brands of TIRES!" etc.
Yow!
CFDS with lower inertia/weight DOES slightly improve acceleration, but
since
it is such a small diameter, not as much as one might think. I
certainly
"noticed" no diference. The flywheel, even with similar or
less weight
savings, would have a significantly greater effect on
acceleration because
it is both at full engine speed, and of larger
diameter. I noted the engine
revs up/down a little faster in neutral
with lighter flywheel, but "noticed"
no sig. change in acceleration by seat
of pants.
Within the notoriously WIDE variation in accleration/hp our
cars with
"stock" computers show, varying timing etc based on temps,
humidity,
barometer, phases of moon etc, how could one reliably really notice
such
small changes? We all know how some days our car feels like a
ROCKET, then
the next day it feels sort of doggy, and NOTHING was
changed...just the good
old computer having "good and bad days"...
JT,
who is very skeptical of his OWN "butt dyno" much less anybody
elses...
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Sat, 30 Mar 2002 10:05:47
-0500
From: "Mihai Raicu" <
mraicu@wayne.edu>
Subject: Team3S: FW:
EDFC(Electronic Damping Force Controller) Question
Darn it. TEIN
says EDFC will not work on Tein HA. I guess Paul can
report back to us
on what he thinks. Here is the official answer.
- -MIHAI-
95 Red
VR4
- -----Original Message-----
From: TEIN USA INC
Sent: Friday,
March 29, 2002 8:52 PM
To:
aa2345@wayne.eduSubject: Re:
EDFC(Electronic Damping Force Controller) Question
Actually, the EDFC
will not work on the Type HA for the VR4 because
there is
not enough
thread length to screw on the motors.
Staff @ TEIN U.S.A.,
INC.
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Sat, 30 Mar 2002 09:41:37
-0600
From: "
merritt@cedar-rapids.net" <
merritt@cedar-rapids.net>
Subject:
Team3S: Let's Go racing May 4-5
I'm going to an open track driver's
school on May 4-5 at the new Midamerica Motorplex near Omaha, and I invite any
3000GT/Stealth people to join me for a "gathering." It's a reasonable drive for
folks in Chicago, St. Louis, Mnpls, Milwaukee, Denver and other Midwest
cities.
We did one of these mini-gatherings at Heartland Part in Topeka
last year, and had five cars show up. Together, we terrorized the M3s, C5s,
5.0s, 911s and other inferior cars all weekend.
The chief
instructor, Jeff Lacina (slow ol' farmer dude), has been my instructor for two
years, so he really knows his way around our cars. In fact, it's humbling to sit
in the passenger seat and watch Jeff drive -- he effortlessly and without
pushing the car demonstrates our car's potential. In fact, he's the one who
showed me that turn 12 at HP should be taken in 4th gear. And he did it in his
2nd lap behind the wheel. Argh! (I have so far to go to get to that
level...)
If it's yer first time on track, all you need is a Snell 95
helmet, and you will STILL whomp the cars in novice class (our cars are so
cool!). If you go, I'll give you some tips on tuning up your stock brakes so
they will last the weekend.
For more info, go to
www.trackguys.comRich/slow old
poop
94 VR4
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Sat, 30 Mar 2002 10:50:44
-0500
From: "Lorne Silkes" <
vr4@cwia.com>
Subject: Re: Team3S: Re:
CFDS
I wonder if shifting seems to get better because by going to the one
piece
carbon fiber drive shaft, you eliminate 2 intermediate connections that
may
have been causing excessive driveline play..
Lorne
- -----
Original Message -----
From: "Floyd, Jim" <
Jim_Floyd@maxtor.com>
To:
"'bdtrent'" <
bdtrent@netzero.net>; "Team 3S" <
team3s@stealth-3000gt.st>
Sent:
Saturday, March 30, 2002 10:04 AM
Subject: RE: Team3S: Re: CFDS
> I
can only tell you what happened, not why.
>
> -----Original
Message-----
> From: bdtrent [mailto:bdtrent@netzero.net]
> Sent:
Saturday, March 30, 2002 4:53 AM
> To: Team 3S
> Subject: Re:
Team3S: Re: CFDS
>
> Well put. Unfortunately, healthy
skepticism seldom justifies the trouble
> and expense of many
mods.
>
> Regards,
> DaveT/92TT
>
> ----- Original
Message -----
> From: "xwing" <
xwing@wi.rr.com>
> To: <
team3s@stealth-3000gt.st>
>
Sent: Saturday, March 30, 2002 1:44 AM
> Subject: Team3S: Re:
CFDS
>
> Jim and Russell:
> I have CFDS, but report it did NOT
help or change my car's shifting
behavior at all.
>
snip-------->
> JT, who is very skeptical of his OWN "butt dyno" much
less anybody
elses...
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Sat, 30 Mar 2002 16:39:39
-0000
From: "Jeff Lucius" <
jlucius@stealth316.com>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: ABS System
If that is really what is wrong and that price
includes installation, then the
price is reasonable. You can look up
estimates of list prices for many parts
including the ABS components on my
two web pages below (these are the Mitchell
Collision Estimating Guides for
our cars).
http://www.stealth316.com/2-mitchell.htm
(3000GT)
http://www.stealth316.com/2-mitchell-s.htm
(Stealth)
The ABS Hydaulic unit lists in the $2350-2650 range. I have not
replaced this
unit, but would not hesitate to try a remove and replace if I
needed to
replace mine. You might shop around for a used one. These sort of
"big ticket"
parts can be the last ones to go for people parting out their
cars depending
on their prices. I list many used parts yards specializing in
our cars on the
Garage Page at my web site. Discount dealers for new parts
are listed there
also.
Jeff Lucius,
http://www.stealth316.com/-
---------- Original Message -------------
Subject: Team3S: ABS
System
Date: Sat, 30 Mar 2002 09:03:02 -0500
From: Danno <
palermod@pilot.msu.edu>
Happy
Easter to You All -
If I could ask for a little advice...
I was
just informed by my Mits dealer that my ABS "hydraulic pump" (or
something
like that) was bad and it would cost $2000 plus to fix it. The ABS
system was coming on for no apparent reason with minimal pressure on the
break
pedal.
Can someone educate me a bit about this, and give me an
idea as to whether this
estimate is realistic? Also, is this a repair
that someone with modest
mechanical skills could undertake?
I had been
running the car with the ABS fuse removed with no problems, but it
would be
nice to have the car 'whole' if you know what I mean...
Thanks for your
help!
- - Dan
'95 VR4
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Sat, 30 Mar 2002 11:13:32
-0600
From: "Jannusch, Matt" <
mjannusch@marketwatch.com>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: Re: CFDS & Flywheels
> The flywheel, even with similar
or less weight savings,
> would have a significantly greater effect on
acceleration
> because it is both at full engine speed, and of
larger
> diameter. I noted the engine revs up/down a little
>
faster in neutral with lighter flywheel, but "noticed"
> no sig. change in
acceleration by seat of pants.
Speaking of lightweight flywheels...
Has anyone else had issues with them
where if you are sitting at a stoplight
everything is running just great and
then suddenly the car dies? I
suspect it might be the computer trying to
idle it down just one step too
far, but I haven't reset any of the base idle
adjustments or anything on my
car since I put it back together.
The car seems really quick with only 9
psi of boost right now after the
rebuild, but I changed so many things at
once, and haven't driven it in such
a long time that I couldn't say that any
specific thing helped a certain
amount.
There's certainly more low-end
torque with the Ross pistons and a little
higher compression though. I
think the pistons are kind of messing with the
knock sensor though - I'm
seeing timing only between 10-20 degrees advance.
- -Matt
'95 3000GT
Spyder VR4
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Sat, 30 Mar 2002 09:56:29
-0800 (PST)
From: menalteed <
menalteed@yahoo.com>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: Water flush
This method you are talking about has me
thinking.
>i have a better way of doing this,, since you have
the
Rad off,, take an air
hose,, wrap a rag around the tip of hte hose and
stick
it into one of hoses. push the air thu that system
very lightely and
it will push all the water out.,,
once the water stops and all air comes thru
the other
hose,, thne yousystem is clean.. refill and cap..
all
done..<
'm thinking that my thermostat being closed
would
prevent this way of draining my system of water. I may
stick to
Matts
system of just running some water through several
times until it
comes out clear then draining the Rad
and filling it with
antifreeze. I
don't ant to remove the thermostat, I'm
in the process of putting my car back
together and
after taking out both
turbos, the front bumper and the oil
coolers and also
the AC unit to replace the oil lines for both
turbos,
plus re-painting the engine bay battery area and re
placing the
fuel pipes, replacing the electrical lines
in the engine bay, and to
many
other things to list,
including re gaping the spark plugs, and hours in
the
interior, I don't have the heart to remove anything
else, even as
simple as a
thermostat, I still have bagggies of bolts and screws
and
little plastic plugs and stays and even though I
marked each baggie it is
still a time dragging job.
Once my new fuel pipe gets here from Japan, next
week
I think, everything else should be ready to go for the
smoke test. My
car is starting to look like new again,
I may just leave it in the driveway
and admire it for
a couple of years. It looks good, to bad they are
such
expensive SOB's every time something goes wrong.
Peter 92 TT
stealth pearl white, K&N filter
13G turbos. restrictor removed from the
waste
selonoid, should be pushing around 13psi on the
turbos.
New
drive shaft and transfer case, paid by insurance.
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Sat, 30 Mar 2002 13:11:27
-0500
From: "Omar Malik" <
ojm@iname.com>
Subject: RE: Team3S:
lawsuit against Mitsubishi regarding Gretag transmission
We have
removed this valve plate on one customer car, a non-turbo.. It does
indeed
make a difference in clutch response.
Omar
92 r/t
-
-----Original Message-----
From:
owner-team3s@team3s.com
[mailto:owner-team3s@team3s.com]On Behalf
Of fastmax
Sent: Thursday, March
28, 2002 10:24 AM
To:
apedenko@attbi.com; Mikael Kenson
Cc:
Team3S@stealth-3000gt.st; Roger
Gerl
Subject: Re: Team3S: lawsuit against Mitsubishi regarding
Gretag
transmission
I looked at the manual and the drawings do show a
valve plate in the
output of the clutch slave cylinder --- it's function is
not described and
I can't tell from the drawing. Removing it as described on
the net may
indeed increase clutch response
speed.
Jim
Berry
================================================
***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Sat, 30 Mar 2002 19:09:11
+0100
From: "Roger Gerl" <
roger.gerl@bluewin.ch>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Ski rack
There is one from Mitsu available here but I don't
liked it. I bought a
ski-bag, flipped down the seats and put them in. They (3
pairs 170-203 cm
lenght) reach the armrest but leave enough space to be able
to shift. Woked
for me since years :)
Roger
93'3000GT TT
www.rtec.ch> Can anybody recommend a
ski rack?
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Sat, 30 Mar 2002 12:25:04
-0700
From: "Floyd, Jim" <
Jim_Floyd@maxtor.com>
Subject: RE:
Team3S: Re: CFDS
The experience is not unique to our cars.
When I
called PST to ask about it they said drivers of other brands
of cars report
the same benefit.
It is unfortunate not everyone with our cars is getting
that result.
- -----Original Message-----
From: Lorne Silkes
[mailto:vr4@cwia.com]
Sent: Saturday, March 30, 2002 8:51 AM
To: Team
3S
Subject: Re: Team3S: Re: CFDS
I wonder if shifting seems to get
better because by going to the one piece
carbon fiber drive shaft, you
eliminate 2 intermediate connections that may
have been causing excessive
driveline play..
Lorne
- ----- Original Message -----
From: "Floyd,
Jim" <
Jim_Floyd@maxtor.com>
To:
"'bdtrent'" <
bdtrent@netzero.net>; "Team 3S" <
team3s@stealth-3000gt.st>
Sent:
Saturday, March 30, 2002 10:04 AM
Subject: RE: Team3S: Re:
CFDS
>
> I can only tell you what happened, not
why.
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Sat, 30 Mar 2002 14:16:29
-0800 (PST)
From: John Christian <
jczoom_619@yahoo.com>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: Ski rack
Hi all,
You could always install a trailer hitch
and put a
rack into the receiver.
Then you could buy a trailer to take
your track to
road course events (-:)
Be of good
cheer,
John
- --- Roger Gerl <
roger.gerl@bluewin.ch> wrote:
>
There is one from Mitsu available here but I don't
> liked it. I bought
a
> ski-bag, flipped down the seats and put them in.
> They (3 pairs
170-203 cm
> lenght) reach the armrest but leave enough space to
>
be able to shift. Woked
> for me since years :)
>
>
Roger
> 93'3000GT TT
>
www.rtec.ch>
> > Can anybody
recommend a ski rack?
=====
Please respond to
jczoom@iname.com'93 TT with Porsche
brakes and Supra TT rotors
12.4@109MPH
5/97 almost stock
http://www.geocities.com/motorcity/flats/4538***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
End of Team3S: 3000GT &
Stealth V1
#797
***************************************