Team3S: 3000GT & Stealth Friday, March 29
2002 Volume 01 : Number
796
----------------------------------------------------------------------
Date:
Thu, 28 Mar 2002 10:09:30 -0700
From: Wayne <
whietala@prodigy.net>
Subject:
Team3S: Speed sensor
Does anybody have the part number for the speed
sensor that is updated to
read the correct speed on turbo
models?
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 28 Mar 2002 09:16:16
-0800 (PST)
From: Geoff Mohler <
gemohler@www.speedtoys.com>
Subject:
Team3S: Re: 3S-Racers: What are my brakes?
If you tell him its a '594' he
should figure it out.
Its part of the common numbering all US street pads
have.
On Thu, 28 Mar 2002,
merritt@cedar-rapids.net
wrote:
> My confuser crashed, and I lost all my e-mail files.
>
> Does anybody know what the model numbers are for ordering brake pads
for Brad's Big Red Porsche TT brakes?
>
> I gotta order a set of
Panther pads, and I never know what to say when they ask "which model 993
Porsche?"
>
> Brad, you out there? I lost your address too.
>
> Rich/slow old poop
> Big Red brakes
-
---
Geoff Mohler
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 28 Mar 2002 09:12:34
-0800 (PST)
From: Casey Rayman <
theturbodog@yahoo.com>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Help with datalogger knock
Have you investigated the
possibility you could have an old/bad/too
tight knock sensor. Knock
sensors only seem to last about 5 years of
daily driving for
me.
Casey
- --- Bob Forrest <
bf@bobforrest.com> wrote:
>
{{{Posted for Bill, who has no outgoing email right now. Please
>
direct
> replies to him at:
billvp@highstream.net}}}
>
> Pocketlogger showing high knock at low boost.
>
> I made
my first ever run with the pocketlogger in, and I was very
> disappointed
in the knock sums I was getting -- at only 11 psi!!
> Please
>
check out my log at
>
http://www.3si.org/vbb/showthread.php?s=&threadid=71407.
>
> I have 15G's, 550 injectors, Walbro pump, VPC, SAFC, EGT gauge,
O2
> gauge
> (new O2 sensors also), boost controller, full exhaust,
etc.
>
> Thanks,
>
> Bill
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 28 Mar 2002 09:18:18
-0800
From: "MThompson" <
mathompson@cox.net>
Subject: RE:
Team3S: Speed sensor
1 Speedometer Driven Gear Assembly MR
111501
I hope this helps!
- -----Original Message-----
From:
owner-team3s@team3s.com
[mailto:owner-team3s@team3s.com]On Behalf
Of Wayne
Sent: Thursday, March
28, 2002 9:10 AM
To:
team3S@stealth-3000gt.stSubject:
Team3S: Speed sensor
Does anybody have the part number for the speed
sensor that is updated to
read the correct speed on turbo
models?
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 28 Mar 2002 12:36:18
-0500
From: "Zobel, Kurt" <
KURT.ZOBEL@ca.com>
Subject: RE:
Team3S: Running Flat Out for 50 miles
Can we get his tire type and
pressure for these runs?
Kurt
- -----Original
Message-----
From: Joe Gonsowski [mailto:twinturbo@comcast.net]
Sent:
Wednesday, March 27, 2002 2:32 PM
To:
Team3S@stealth-3000gt.stSubject:
Re: Team3S: Running Flat Out for 50 miles
Couple comments.
I ran
the Sept. '99 Silver State Classic in the 125mph average speed class.
This
was the fastest they would allow me to go without a roll bar or cage.
It was
a standing start and we couldn't exceed 140 mph during the 90
mile
course. My car didn't even break a sweat at those speeds. A
perfect time
would have been 43 minutes 12 seconds as I recall and we were
about 2
seconds off which put us in 6th / 19 cars in our class. A Viper
won our
class with the aid of GPS, most teams with GPS did extremely
well.
BTW - Ken Kribley (sp?) often runs the SSC in his nearly stock 1st
gen VR-4
and has won the 150 and 155 mph class more than once.
These
events are a blast, I will again head west for the SSC once my '92
gets back
on the road (with a cage). I'm building my safety equipment to
pass the
tech inspection for speeds up to 180mph. After that, it gets
very
expensive to pass tech.
Joe Gonsowski
'92 & '96 R/T
TT
- ----- Original Message -----
From: <
merritt@cedar-rapids.net>
To:
"ek2mfg" <
ek2mfg@foxinternet.com>; <
3sracers@speedtoys.com>;
<
Team3S@stealth-3000gt.st>
Sent:
Wednesday, March 27, 2002 2:41 PM
Subject: RE: Team3S: Running Flat Out for
50 miles
> Whoever wins the class will enter the last checkpoint with
an average
speed of 120.00 mph exactly. GPS is not exact enough. Ya need
exact
mileages. And you cannot slow down on course, especially in sight of
a
checkpoint. It's cause for exclusion.
>
> At 11:27 AM 3/27/02
-0800, ek2mfg wrote:
> >you will have a co-pilot Mr. old poop...make
your co-pilot work for
> >you with a GPS like the real boys.....then
depending on your finances
> >you could easily return it after
the wekend or keep something that
> >is usefull for all year... I would
(this is just my opinion)make a
> >spread sheet of the course....excell
or something like that....reach
> >certain points via the gps by a stop
watch and then
> >compensate...nothing says you cant do 10 mph the last
1000ft :)
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 28 Mar 2002 12:02:08
-0600
From: "Trevor James" <
trevor@kscable.com>
Subject: Team3S:
Air Conditioning Optimization
I'm buying a vehicle soon with historically
sub-par A/C and I'm moving to
Arizona. Anyone got any ideas on optimizing the
A/C to work as well as
possible? Keep in mind it was originally designed for
R-12 refrigerant.
I figure if I do these things the A/C should be
optimized and cool pretty
well:
- - Repair any leaks (DUH!)
- - Switch
to R-406A refrigerant (properly serviced)
http://www.autofrost.com(provides 3-10
degree colder temps at the air duct than R-12 & it's cheaper)
- - Make
sure that the evaporator and condenser are in good condition (replace
them if
they're bent up)
- - Make sure the evaporator is sealed so that no air can
bypass it while the
A/C is on (maximum cold transfer to the air)
- - Make
sure the compressor cylces and the pressure switch operates as
advertised (as
long as the compressor cylces then that means that it's
adequate and no gains
would come from replacing/upgrading it)
Any other ideas to make the thing
blow consitently as cold as possible?
Thanks of great Jedi
masters!
Trevor
96 R/T TT,
11.82@116.1, 93 Octane & Plain Radials
97
VR-4, Bone stock!
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 28 Mar 2002 13:05:51
-0500
From: "Zobel, Kurt" <
KURT.ZOBEL@ca.com>
Subject: RE:
Team3S: lawsuit against Mitsubishi regarding Gretag transmis
sion
Allowing the clutch to engage more quickly could only be detrimental
to synchro's IMO.
The reason to slow clutch engagement would be to keep from
shocking the drivetrain.
Allowing faster engagement for better acceleration
and faster shifts may be what you want, but likely at the expense of the
drivetrain.
Perhaps much of the syncro problems are due to added forces
of the AWD inertia and drag.
Perhaps some is due to clutch initial release
design and synchro and gear design.
Kurt
- -----Original
Message-----
From: Mikael Kenson [mailto:vr4@bahnhof.se]
Sent: Wednesday,
March 27, 2002 10:53 PM
To:
Team3S@stealth-3000gt.st; Roger
Gerl
Subject: Re: Team3S: lawsuit against Mitsubishi regarding
Gretag
transmission
I don't think the gear box it self is the
problem... The main problem is the clutch.
Not that the clutch can't
handle power it's just that Mitsubishi know that we are poor stick drivers and
tryed to help us by putting a "valve plate" in the bleeder housing. This makes
the clutch slip some every time you press it down and release it. I believe that
this slip causes alot of the syncro problems by not letting the clutch engage
quick enough.
If you press down the clutch and just as quickly as
possible removes you foot, what will happen? The clutch pedal will "slowly" come
back up. If you remove this valve and do the same the pedal will be as quick as
you foot!
The Mitsu Evo 6 we have here in sweden (around 80 cars) have
all been recalled becasuse all smoke the clutch within a few weeks. What Mitsu
does is to remove the clutch restriction and after that no more clutch problems.
I also found this page on the net
http://www.jumptronix.com/2g_go_faster/Faqs/clutch_restrictor_removal_faq.htmIf
you do this you must understand that your car will be harder to
drive.
However, the transfer case is the worst crap that someone ever
built. You just need to take a two second look at it to see that there just is
no way a tiny ugly thing like that can hold even the stock power. Getrag
must have been on crack when they designed that junk.
/Mikael
http://www.3000gt.nu***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 28 Mar 2002 13:13:07
-0500
From: "Furman, Russell" <
RFurman2@MassMutual.com>
Subject:
Team3S: WAS Lawsuit against Mitsu NOW Syncro wear
With so much drag
in the AWD driveline on our cars and apparently heavy
syncro wear, Why are so
few of us running a CFDS other than cost (its on my
buy list for this year
just not sure if the budget can swing it) It seems
like this would be a
beneficial upgrade from all angles (better
acceleration, less curb weight,
less rotational weight, etc...)
Trying to think outside the transmission
;)
Russ F
CT
> -----Original Message-----
> From:
Zobel, Kurt [SMTP:KURT.ZOBEL@ca.com]
> Sent: Thursday, March 28, 2002 1:06
PM
> To: Mikael Kenson;
Team3S@stealth-3000gt.st; Roger
Gerl
> Subject: RE: Team3S: lawsuit against Mitsubishi regarding
Gretag
> transmis sion
>
> Allowing the clutch to engage more
quickly could only be detrimental to
> synchro's IMO.
> The reason
to slow clutch engagement would be to keep from shocking the
>
drivetrain.
> Allowing faster engagement for better acceleration and
faster shifts may
> be what you want, but likely at the expense of the
drivetrain.
>
> Perhaps much of the syncro problems are due to
added forces of the AWD
> inertia and drag.
> Perhaps some is due to
clutch initial release design and synchro and gear
> design.
>
> Kurt
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 28 Mar 2002 11:18:32
-0700
From: "Floyd, Jim" <
Jim_Floyd@maxtor.com>
Subject: RE:
Team3S: WAS Lawsuit against Mitsu NOW Syncro wear
I am running the
CFDS and it was as significant increase in
performance as gutting all my
cats.
And everyone using it has reported improved shifting,
myself
included.
- -----Original Message-----
From: Furman, Russell
[mailto:RFurman2@MassMutual.com]
Sent: Thursday, March 28, 2002 11:13
AM
To: 'Team 3S'
Subject: Team3S: WAS Lawsuit against Mitsu NOW Syncro
wear
With so much drag in the AWD driveline on our cars and apparently
heavy
syncro wear, Why are so few of us running a CFDS other than cost (its
on my
buy list for this year just not sure if the budget can swing it)
It seems
like this would be a beneficial upgrade from all angles
(better
acceleration, less curb weight, less rotational weight,
etc...)
Trying to think outside the transmission ;)
Russ
F
CT
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 28 Mar 2002 13:21:27
-0500
From: "Furman, Russell" <
RFurman2@MassMutual.com>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: WAS Lawsuit against Mitsu NOW Syncro wear
Based on this
maybe the "powers that be" want to add this as a suggested
early mod to
the car? It might be useful but hey what do I know :/
>
-----Original Message-----
> From: Floyd, Jim
[SMTP:Jim_Floyd@maxtor.com]
> Sent: Thursday, March 28, 2002 1:19
PM
> To: 'Team 3S'
> Subject: RE: Team3S: WAS Lawsuit against
Mitsu NOW Syncro wear
>
> I am running the CFDS and it was as
significant increase in
> performance as gutting all my cats.
> And
everyone using it has reported improved shifting, myself
>
included.
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Furman,
Russell [mailto:RFurman2@MassMutual.com]
> Sent: Thursday, March 28, 2002
11:13 AM
> To: 'Team 3S'
> Subject: Team3S: WAS Lawsuit against
Mitsu NOW Syncro wear
>
> With so much drag in the AWD driveline on
our cars and apparently heavy
> syncro wear, Why are so few of us running
a CFDS other than cost (its on
> my
> buy list for this year just
not sure if the budget can swing it) It seems
> like this would be a
beneficial upgrade from all angles (better
> acceleration, less curb
weight, less rotational weight, etc...)
>
> Trying to think outside
the transmission ;)
>
> Russ F
> CT
***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 28 Mar 2002 12:23:54
-0600
From: "Jannusch, Matt" <
mjannusch@marketwatch.com>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: WAS Lawsuit against Mitsu NOW Syncro wear
> I am
running the CFDS and it was as significant
> increase in performance as
gutting all my cats.
> And everyone using it has reported improved
>
shifting, myself included.
I don't see how a carbon fiber driveshaft
would change shifting feel.
There's still the 4000 pounds of weight making
the wheels turn, causing the
same amount of torsional force on the
driveshaft, etc. Acceleration I could
see since a heavier driveshaft
will resist a change in rotational inertia
more than a lighter one - but
shifting action changes I don't understand.
- -Matt
'95 3000GT Spyder
VR4
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 28 Mar 2002 11:30:21
-0700
From: "Floyd, Jim" <
Jim_Floyd@maxtor.com>
Subject: RE:
Team3S: WAS Lawsuit against Mitsu NOW Syncro wear
Matt,
As
you stated there is torsional force to contend with.
The CFDS "absorbs" some
of that torsion, while metal does not.
- -----Original
Message-----
From: Jannusch, Matt [mailto:mjannusch@marketwatch.com]
Sent:
Thursday, March 28, 2002 11:24 AM
To: 'Floyd, Jim'; 'Team 3S'
Subject: RE:
Team3S: WAS Lawsuit against Mitsu NOW Syncro wear
> I am running the
CFDS and it was as significant
> increase in performance as gutting all
my cats.
> And everyone using it has reported improved
> shifting,
myself included.
I don't see how a carbon fiber driveshaft would change
shifting feel.
There's still the 4000 pounds of weight making the wheels
turn, causing the
same amount of torsional force on the driveshaft,
etc. Acceleration I could
see since a heavier driveshaft will resist a
change in rotational inertia
more than a lighter one - but shifting action
changes I don't understand.
- -Matt
'95 3000GT Spyder
VR4
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 28 Mar 2002 20:41:15
-0000
From: "Jeff Lucius" <
jlucius@stealth316.com>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Speed sensor
That is a trick question right?
Mitsu
lists acceptable error for the speedo (all years) as about -5% to +10%
(94
to 100 mph indicated for an actual 100 mph). For 5-speed manual
transmissions manufactured before February 1993, the speedo gear has a 27/36
gear (Mitsu part # MB811064, 27-teeth). After that, the gear has a 28/36
ratio
(Mitsu part # MR111502, 28-teeth). The switch from a 27/36 to a 28/36
will
reduce the registered speed by about 4%.
So does the change make
the speedo read the *correct* speed? Not necessarily.
It would be best to
check the accuracy of your current setup (speedo gear and
wheels/tires) and
see if a 4% reduction in registered speed takes you in the
direction you
want go.
R&R details:
http://www.stealth316.com/2-speedgear.htmJeff
Lucius,
http://www.stealth316.com/- -----
Original Message -----
From: "Wayne" <
whietala@prodigy.net>
To: <
team3S@stealth-3000gt.st>
Sent:
Thursday, March 28, 2002 10:09 AM
Subject: Team3S: Speed sensor
Does
anybody have the part number for the speed sensor that is updated to
read
the correct speed on turbo models?
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 28 Mar 2002 15:19:22
-0600
From: "Willis, Charles E." <
cewillis@TexasChildrensHospital.org>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: Speed sensor
There is about a 7% difference in indicated
speed between my 94 VR4 six
speed and my wife's 93 VR4 5 speed, and I sure
hear about it on the radio
when we are travelling together. Her's reads
higher than mine. I wonder if
I could replace the speedo gear in her
car with a 28 toothed gear so I could
get some peace and quiet on the
highway?
Chuck
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Jeff
Lucius [SMTP:jlucius@stealth316.com]
> Sent: Thursday, March 28, 2002 2:41
PM
> To:
Team3S@stealth-3000gt.st>
Subject: Re: Team3S: Speed sensor
>
> That is a trick question
right?
>
> Mitsu lists acceptable error for the speedo (all years)
as about -5% to
> +10%
> (94 to 100 mph indicated for an actual 100
mph). For 5-speed manual
> transmissions manufactured before February
1993, the speedo gear has a
> 27/36
> gear (Mitsu part # MB811064,
27-teeth). After that, the gear has a 28/36
> ratio
> (Mitsu part #
MR111502, 28-teeth). The switch from a 27/36 to a 28/36 will
>
>
reduce the registered speed by about 4%.
>
> So does the change
make the speedo read the *correct* speed? Not
> necessarily.
> It
would be best to check the accuracy of your current setup (speedo gear
>
and
> wheels/tires) and see if a 4% reduction in registered speed takes
you in
> the
> direction you want go.
>
> R&R
details:
>
http://www.stealth316.com/2-speedgear.htm***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 28 Mar 2002 21:48:02
-0000
From: "Jeff Lucius" <
jlucius@stealth316.com>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: Speed sensor
Why is it the woman has to change? The gears (27
tooth or 28 tooth) will work
in either 6-spd or 5-spd trannies. So you could
increase the registered speed
of your '94 by 4% by putting the "older" gear
in. Hey, wouldn't that make your
car faster? :)
Hmmm, *and* reduce
hers by 4% *IF* her car was made on or after the third
third of February
1993 (that would put you up by 1%!). Look on the sticker on
the B pillar
after you open the driver's door for the production date. I am
not sure how
calender dates translate into Mitsu's third of a month production
date
scheme. 9202.3 is what calander date exactly I wonder?
http://www.stealth316.com/2-speedgear.htmJeff
Lucius,
http://www.stealth316.com/- -----
Original Message -----
From: "Willis, Charles E." <
cewillis@TexasChildrensHospital.org>
To:
"'Jeff Lucius'" <
jlucius@stealth316.com>; <
Team3S@stealth-3000gt.st>
Sent:
Thursday, March 28, 2002 2:19 PM
Subject: RE: Team3S: Speed
sensor
There is about a 7% difference in indicated speed between my
94 VR4 six
speed and my wife's 93 VR4 5 speed, and I sure hear about it on
the radio
when we are travelling together. Her's reads higher than
mine. I wonder if
I could replace the speedo gear in her car with a 28
toothed gear so I could
get some peace and quiet on the
highway?
Chuck
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 28 Mar 2002 16:01:28
-0600
From: "Trevor James" <
trevor@kscable.com>
Subject: Team3S:
Low pressure (0-7psi) radiator cap...
Looking for a low pressure (0-7psi)
radiator cap to go with my Evans NPG+. A
list member (who shall remain
nameless) said that Ski-doo had the same
radiator caps that we do and they we
6psi. The parts counter guy looked at
me like I was nuts since Ski-doo's
don't have radiators! I guess if I would
have thought for a second I would
have reazlized they're cooled by the water
they pass thru the jet drive.
While I was there I looked at the 2002 Yamaha
dirt bikes and those (Nippon
Denso) caps look like they would fit our cars,
only problem is that the
pressure rating isn't on the cap or in their parts
database.
Any ideas
on where to get one. I guess if all else fails I'll just rip the
seal off the
cap and make it a 0 psi system like the RX-7 boys do. I'd
rather have it
sealed though.
Trevor
96 R/T TT,
11.82@116.1, 93 Octane & Pump Gas
97 VR-4,
Bone Stock
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 28 Mar 2002 15:06:07
-0700
From: "Floyd, Jim" <
Jim_Floyd@maxtor.com>
Subject: RE:
Team3S: Low pressure (0-7psi) radiator cap...
Hey, it was what I was
told.
I didn't think either.
Nameless.
- -----Original
Message-----
From: Trevor James [mailto:trevor@kscable.com]
Sent:
Thursday, March 28, 2002 3:01 PM
To:
Team3S@stealth-3000gt.st;
stealth@starnet.netSubject: Team3S:
Low pressure (0-7psi) radiator cap...
Looking for a low pressure (0-7psi)
radiator cap to go with my Evans NPG+. A
list member (who shall remain
nameless) said that Ski-doo had the same
radiator caps that we do and they we
6psi. The parts counter guy looked at
me like I was nuts since Ski-doo's
don't have radiators! I guess if I would
have thought for a second I would
have reazlized they're cooled by the water
they pass thru the jet drive.
While I was there I looked at the 2002 Yamaha
dirt bikes and those (Nippon
Denso) caps look like they would fit our cars,
only problem is that the
pressure rating isn't on the cap or in their parts
database.
Any ideas
on where to get one. I guess if all else fails I'll just rip the
seal off the
cap and make it a 0 psi system like the RX-7 boys do. I'd
rather have it
sealed though.
Trevor
96 R/T TT,
11.82@116.1, 93 Octane & Pump Gas
97 VR-4,
Bone Stock
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 28 Mar 2002 15:08:42
-0700
From: "Floyd, Jim" <
Jim_Floyd@maxtor.com>
Subject:
Team3S: RE: Low pressure (0-7psi) radiator cap...
I got an update.
It
is the Ski-doo snowmobiles, not jet ski's.
Still nameless.
-
-----Original Message-----
From: Trevor James
[mailto:trevor@kscable.com]
Sent: Thursday, March 28, 2002 3:01 PM
To:
Team3S@stealth-3000gt.st;
stealth@stls.verio.netSubject: Low
pressure (0-7psi) radiator cap...
Looking for a low pressure (0-7psi)
radiator cap to go with my Evans NPG+. A
list member (who shall remain
nameless) said that Ski-doo had the same
radiator caps that we do and they we
6psi. The parts counter guy looked at
me like I was nuts since Ski-doo's
don't have radiators! I guess if I would
have thought for a second I would
have reazlized they're cooled by the water
they pass thru the jet drive.
While I was there I looked at the 2002 Yamaha
dirt bikes and those (Nippon
Denso) caps look like they would fit our cars,
only problem is that the
pressure rating isn't on the cap or in their parts
database.
Any ideas
on where to get one. I guess if all else fails I'll just rip the
seal off the
cap and make it a 0 psi system like the RX-7 boys do. I'd
rather have it
sealed though.
Trevor
96 R/T TT,
11.82@116.1, 93 Octane & Pump Gas
97 VR-4,
Bone Stock
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 28 Mar 2002 16:08:45
-0600
From: "Jannusch, Matt" <
mjannusch@marketwatch.com>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: Low pressure (0-7psi) radiator cap...
> Looking for a low
pressure (0-7psi) radiator cap to go with
> my Evans NPG+. A list member
(who shall remain nameless) said
> that Ski-doo had the same radiator
caps that we do and they
> we 6psi. The parts counter guy looked at me
like I was nuts
> since Ski-doo's don't have radiators!
SkiDoo
snowmobiles have a cooling system with a cap. Maybe that's what
you
need. It for sure is a very low-pressure cap, probably what you are
looking
for.
I can't verify for sure though since I have two Polaris
sleds and an Arctic
Cat in my garage. ;-)
SkiDoo's parent
company, Bombardier, also makes an ATV that probably uses a
sealed coolant
system as well.
- -Matt
'95 3000GT Spyder VR4
***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 28 Mar 2002 15:34:47
-0700
From: Wayne <
whietala@prodigy.net>
Subject: RE:
Team3S: Speed sensor
It would be better if his wife changed
her's.......for the same reason i
want to change mine......the car racks up
more miles with the fast reading
one, and therefore is harder to sell (if
the time comes)
At 09:48 PM 3/28/02 +0000, Jeff Lucius wrote:
>Why
is it the woman has to change? The gears (27 tooth or 28 tooth) will
work
>in either 6-spd or 5-spd trannies. So you could increase the
registered speed
>of your '94 by 4% by putting the "older" gear in. Hey,
wouldn't that make
>your
>car faster? :)
>
>Hmmm, *and*
reduce hers by 4% *IF* her car was made on or after the third
>third of
February 1993 (that would put you up by 1%!). Look on the sticker on
>the
B pillar after you open the driver's door for the production date. I
am
>not sure how calender dates translate into Mitsu's third of a month
>production
>date scheme. 9202.3 is what calander date exactly I
wonder?
>
>http://www.stealth316.com/2-speedgear.htm
>
>Jeff
Lucius,
http://www.stealth316.com/***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 28 Mar 2002 14:56:27
-0800
From: "ek2mfg" <
ek2mfg@foxinternet.com>
Subject:
Team3S: 99 Front end pics from a manual on CD
Any info would be
helpfull,
I am looking for the manual pictures of the front bumper for the
99
front end...I bought all the pieces and can't seem to figure out
one
piece. I have he pics from
www.stealth316.com so any additional
info
is what i am looking for...perferably that it be from a 99 manual
and
covers the radiator shrouds and anything with the front
bumper.
Thanks in advance gentlemen.....it will be painted in 8
days
bobk.
93 R/T NA 99 coversion 99% complete....where's this
go?
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 28 Mar 2002 18:07:09
-0500
From: Joe Gonsowski <
twinturbo@comcast.net>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Running Flat Out for 50 miles
I was running Yokohama AVS
Intermediates (new at the time, no longer
available) and tire pressure was
high. I believe I ran nearly 50psi as
recommended by the event
organizers. The biggest risk during these high
speed runs are tire blow
outs. SSC tech inspection pays close attention to
tires (speed ratings,
no patches etc.), steel caps on the valve stems (no
plastic), and inflation
pressure. You should be able to find everything you
need in the
rules. If you're asking what Ken Kribley was using for his
150mph
average runs, I'm not sure.
Joe Gonsowski
- ----- Original Message
-----
From: "Zobel, Kurt" <
KURT.ZOBEL@ca.com>
To: "Joe Gonsowski"
<
twinturbo@comcast.net>; <
Team3S@stealth-3000gt.st>
Sent:
Thursday, March 28, 2002 12:36 PM
Subject: RE: Team3S: Running Flat Out for
50 miles
> Can we get his tire type and pressure for these
runs?
>
> Kurt
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 28 Mar 2002 15:40:11
-0800 (PST)
From: Geoff Mohler <
gemohler@www.speedtoys.com>
Subject:
Team3S: Re: Low pressure (0-7psi) radiator cap...
Since weve determined
that more pressure isnt a problem (because more
pressure wont be created)
there is no harm in just staying with what you
have.
On Thu, 28 Mar
2002, Trevor James wrote:
> Looking for a low pressure (0-7psi)
radiator cap to go with my Evans NPG+. A
> list member (who shall remain
nameless) said that Ski-doo had the same
> radiator caps that we do and
they we 6psi. The parts counter guy looked at
> me like I was nuts since
Ski-doo's don't have radiators! I guess if I would
> have thought for a
second I would have reazlized they're cooled by the water
> they pass thru
the jet drive. While I was there I looked at the 2002 Yamaha
> dirt bikes
and those (Nippon Denso) caps look like they would fit our cars,
> only
problem is that the pressure rating isn't on the cap or in their parts
>
database.
>
> Any ideas on where to get one. I guess if all else
fails I'll just rip the
> seal off the cap and make it a 0 psi system like
the RX-7 boys do. I'd
> rather have it sealed though.
>
>
Trevor
> 96 R/T TT,
11.82@116.1, 93
Octane & Pump Gas
> 97 VR-4, Bone Stock
- ---
Geoff
Mohler
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 28 Mar 2002 15:38:41
-0800
From: "Bob Forrest" <
bf@bobforrest.com>
Subject: Team3S:
Tire type/pressure - Silver State, etc. WAS: Running Flat
Out...
> Can we get his tire type and pressure for these runs?
>
Kurt
- ------------------------------------>
Good idea.
Whatever tire you choose - do your research first about
optimum
pressure. Best to consult with the manufacturer before you
run. There's a
real issue here with people not inflating enough for
high-speed driving -
and tires exploding because of using 'normal'
pressures. Most tires get
safer as you increase inflation, but people
still insist on dropping a few
psi whenever they get close to 40 psi.
In all likelihood, for those speeds
you should be running in the 50psi
area.
Short story (partial repost) of what happened at Silver State in
2000:
Michelin Pilot Sport was adopted as the OEM tire for the Viper that
year.
John Hennessey was running one of his cars in the S S Challenge when
a
sidewall came apart at 198mph. Michelin claimed he should
have
substantially raised the air pressure for sustained high speed
usage. But a
guy on the Viper list posted that he had the same thing
happen to him at
90mph. Within a few days, 4 other guys posted about
the exact same failure,
even on different cars-- Two Mercedes E55's, an
SL500, and another Viper.
All these cars had less than 6,000 miles on them,
and were on the OE Pilot
Sports.
At Silver State, they supposedly
X-Ray your wheels/tires for imperfections
now (so I've heard, but not
verified). Make sure your wheels and rubber are
perfect if you'll be
running at these speeds. You should even have your
high-speed wheel
balancing and alignment done at the inflation you will use
at the race.
And get those inflations UP!
ADMIN NOTE: If we are going to begin a
lengthy racing discussion here,
let's take it over to the Team3S Racers
List... Thanks!
Good luck,
Forrest
***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 28 Mar 2002 17:23:30
-0500
From: "Zobel, Kurt" <
KURT.ZOBEL@ca.com>
Subject: RE:
Team3S: Low pressure (0-7psi) radiator cap...
I don't get it. What is the
point of the 7psi cap vs ?12psi stock ?
Kurt
- -----Original
Message-----
From: Jannusch, Matt [mailto:mjannusch@marketwatch.com]
Sent:
Thursday, March 28, 2002 2:09 PM
To: 'Floyd, Jim'; 'Trevor James';
Team3S@stealth-3000gt.st;
stealth@starnet.netSubject: RE:
Team3S: Low pressure (0-7psi) radiator cap...
> Looking for a low
pressure (0-7psi) radiator cap to go with
> my Evans NPG+. A list member
(who shall remain nameless) said
> that Ski-doo had the same radiator
caps that we do and they
> we 6psi. The parts counter guy looked at me
like I was nuts
> since Ski-doo's don't have radiators!
SkiDoo
snowmobiles have a cooling system with a cap. Maybe that's what
you
need. It for sure is a very low-pressure cap, probably what you are
looking
for.
I can't verify for sure though since I have two Polaris
sleds and an Arctic
Cat in my garage. ;-)
SkiDoo's parent
company, Bombardier, also makes an ATV that probably uses a
sealed coolant
system as well.
- -Matt
'95 3000GT Spyder VR4
***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 28 Mar 2002 16:49:40
-0800 (PST)
From: menalteed <
menalteed@yahoo.com>
Subject:
Team3S: Hood blisters on first Generation
Does anyone have a simple fix
to get some easy and
good looking venting holes into our first
generation
hood blisters.
Peter 92 stealth TT,
***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 28 Mar 2002 19:17:07
-0600
From: "Trevor James" <
trevor@kscable.com>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: Low pressure (0-7psi) radiator cap...
I'm switching to this
coolant:
http://www.evanscooling.com/html/npgPls.htmIt
requires 0-7 psi system pressure, not the normal 13-16.
Trevor
-
----- Original Message -----
From: "Zobel, Kurt" <
KURT.ZOBEL@ca.com>
To: "Jannusch,
Matt" <
mjannusch@marketwatch.com>;
"'Floyd, Jim'"
<
Jim_Floyd@maxtor.com>; "'Trevor
James'" <
trevor@kscable.com>;
<
Team3S@stealth-3000gt.st>; <
stealth@starnet.net>
Sent: Thursday,
March 28, 2002 4:23 PM
Subject: RE: Team3S: Low pressure (0-7psi) radiator
cap...
> I don't get it. What is the point of the 7psi cap vs ?12psi
stock ?
>
> Kurt
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 28 Mar 2002 17:30:55
-0800
From: "fastmax" <
fastmax@cox.net>
Subject: Re: Team3S:
Low pressure (0-7psi) radiator cap...
Doesn't seem to make a lot of sense
---- the boiling point of the coolant is 370º
at sea level, the reduction of
pressure from 14psi to 7psi would have little affect
on the operation of the
coolant. If you're operating anywhere close to it's boiling
point [
370º ] you've got a real problem. At 370 degrees you should be able to
run a
0 psi cap --- you'd probably have to make your own from a regular
cap
although it shouldn't make a difference --- a little less mechenical
stress on the
radiator and lines
!!!!!!
Jim
Berry
=================================================
***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 28 Mar 2002 18:30:57
-0800
From: Damon Rachell <
damonr@mefas.com>
Subject: Re: Team3S:
Low pressure (0-7psi) radiator cap...
boiling points do increase with
pressure, hence the reason why water
boils with less heat at high
elevation. Perhaps the manufacturer is
suggesting that the increased
heat potential for this coolant can cause
excessive damage to engine coolant
parts if run at 14psi. Twice
atmosphere would lead to much higer
boiling points (though not double)
which might damage seals/gaskets.
Regardless of the fact that your
engine would have blown up well before that
point.
Why doesn't someone just send them an e-mail and
ask?
fastmax wrote:
> Doesn't seem to make a lot of sense ----
the boiling point of the coolant is 370º
> at sea level, the reduction of
pressure from 14psi to 7psi would have little affect
> on the operation of
the coolant. If you're operating anywhere close to it's boiling
>
point [ 370º ] you've got a real problem. At 370 degrees you should be able
to
> run a 0 psi cap --- you'd probably have to make your own from a
regular cap
> although it shouldn't make a difference --- a little less
mechenical stress on the
> radiator and lines !!!!!!
>
> Jim Berry
>
=================================================
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 28 Mar 2002 21:15:12
-0600
From: "Jannusch, Matt" <
mjannusch@marketwatch.com>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: Low pressure (0-7psi) radiator cap...
> boiling points do
increase with pressure, hence
> the reason why water boils with less heat
at high
> elevation. Perhaps the manufacturer is suggesting
>
that the increased heat potential for this coolant
> can cause excessive
damage to engine coolant parts
> if run at 14psi. Twice atmosphere
would lead to
> much higer boiling points (though not double)
>
which might damage seals/gaskets. Regardless of
> the fact that your
engine would have blown up
> well before that point.
I think the
points are this:
A) This special ($25 per gallon!) coolant's boiling
point is much higher
than a water and standard antifreeze mix.
Therefore the cooling system
pressure will be lower than with
ethylene-glycol/water.
B) You don't really need* to reduce the pressure
on the cap. Optionally you
could, but with the boiling point of this
stuff being so high, whether it is
a 2 psi cap or the stock 14 psi (or
whatever) cap it won't matter - the
stuff won't boil and built as much
pressure as the usual coolant mix, so it
doesn't really matter.
C) If
your coolant hits 370 degrees (or higher - where it'll boil under
pressure)
you have other, much more serious problems to deal with.
I'd just run the
stock coolant pressure cap and call it good. The system
should pretty
much not even use the overflow tank with this special coolant
stuff, which is
probably a good thing anyway.
This coolant seems interesting... I
might try it in my car. Of course, I
just filled the rebuilt motor with
regular coolant plus Water Wetter. Ugh!
Would've been the perfect time
to make the switch.
- -Matt
'95 3000GT Spyder VR4
***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 28 Mar 2002 20:26:18
-0700
From: "Mike & Cathy" <
micajoco@theofficenet.com>
Subject:
Team3S: cam sensor
After installing the cam sensor on #3 cam, I wondered
if it could be
installed 180 off.
Would there be any interference with
valves if so?
Mike S 92 rt tt Wash St
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 28 Mar 2002 20:38:28
-0800 (PST)
From: menalteed <
menalteed@yahoo.com>
Subject:
Team3S: Water flush
Qestion on water flush. I'm trying to get all
the
water out of the system including the heater and water
pump.
I'm
thinking of removing the engine water plug then
cold cranking the engine with
the battery until the
pump pushes out all the water. I have my radiator
off
at this time. I'm thinking this would work and not
cause any damage. I
wonder if I'm right.
Peter 92 TT Stealth
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 28 Mar 2002 23:41:14
EST
From:
M3000GTSL84@aol.comSubject: Team3S:
N/A top speed?
coming across a magazine review of an N/A car is pretty
impossible. any1
happen to kno the top speed on a non turbo?
-
-mike
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 28 Mar 2002 22:54:00
-0600
From: "Jannusch, Matt" <
mjannusch@marketwatch.com>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: Water flush
> I'm thinking of removing the engine
water
> plug then cold cranking the engine with
> the battery until
the pump pushes out all
> the water. I have my radiator off at
this
> time. I'm thinking this would work and not
> cause any
damage. I wonder if I'm right.
You don't want to risk running the pump
dry - it might start chewing up the
water pump bushing/bearing, and the water
pump is a real pain to replace.
You could remove the block water plug to
try to get more coolant out from
there. Then seal it back up and fill
with distilled water, run the car a
little bit, flush again (to try to get
out more of the old antifreeze),
close the drains again, dump in 4 quarts of
antifreeze, fill to the top with
distilled water, then run it a little more,
then top off with more distilled
water. You should end up right around
a 50/50 mix with that method.
If I remember right though, the block water
plug was on the back of the
motor in a really difficult to get to spot.
There's a funky one on the
front of the block, but I don't recall if that was
oil or coolant.
I probably wouldn't bother with the block drain plug,
even if it is
reasonably accessible. The radiator drain should work
reasonably well if
you flush it with water once or twice.
-
-Matt
'95 3000GT Spyder VR4
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 28 Mar 2002 22:10:13
-0800
From: "fastmax" <
fastmax@cox.net>
Subject: Re: Team3S:
Water flush
Hmmmm ---- changing to that Evans glycol stuff would require
a dry system,
that might be a big PITA to
acomplish.
Jim
Berry
=============================================
- ----- Original
Message -----
From: "Jannusch, Matt" <
mjannusch@marketwatch.com>
>
> I'm thinking of removing the engine water
> > plug then cold
cranking the engine with
> > the battery until the pump pushes out
all
> > the water. I have my radiator off at this
> > time.
I'm thinking this would work and not
> > cause any damage. I wonder if
I'm right.
>
> You don't want to risk running the pump dry - it
might start chewing up the
> water pump bushing/bearing, and the water
pump is a real pain to replace.
>
> You could remove the block
water plug to try to get more coolant out from
> there. Then seal it
back up and fill with distilled water, run the car a
> little bit, flush
again (to try to get out more of the old antifreeze),
> close the drains
again, dump in 4 quarts of antifreeze, fill to the top with
> distilled
water, then run it a little more, then top off with more distilled
>
water. You should end up right around a 50/50 mix with that
method.
>
> If I remember right though, the block water plug was on
the back of the
> motor in a really difficult to get to spot.
There's a funky one on the
> front of the block, but I don't recall if
that was oil or coolant.
>
> I probably wouldn't bother with the
block drain plug, even if it is
> reasonably accessible. The
radiator drain should work reasonably well if
> you flush it with water
once or twice.
>
> -Matt
> '95 3000GT Spyder
VR4
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 29 Mar 2002 00:44:31
-0600
From: "Trevor James" <
trevor@kscable.com>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: Water flush
You flush it with pure Sierra brand coolant.
http://www.sierraantifreeze.comThrow
that in there straight and drive around for 30 minutes with the heat
on. It
will absorb all the left over water. Drain the Sierra and put in the
Evans.
The Sierra is compatable with Evans NPG+ since it's propylene glycol
too. The
minute amount of water that the left over Sierra absorbed won't
cause a
problem with the NPG+.
Kind of a pain but i think it'll be worth it for
those of us that tune to
the edge of detonation trying make max
power.
Trevor
96 R/T TT,
11.82@116.1,
93 Octane & Plain Radials
97 VR-4, Bone Stock
***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 29 Mar 2002 07:51:23
-0700
From: Desert Fox <
bigfoot@simmgene.com>
Subject:
Team3S: Ski rack
Can anybody recommend a ski rack?
- --
Paul/.
95 black 3000GT VR-4
98 VFR800F, TBR aluminum hi
exit
formerly reasonable and prudent
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 29 Mar 2002 10:29:49
-0500
From:
griz600cc@comcast.netSubject:
Team3S: Roll Cage - Chassis
Since the topic of roll cages came up
before...
http://www.racetec.net/services.htm***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 29 Mar 2002 20:43:41
+0000
From: "Andrei Kryjevski" <
abk_4@hotmail.com>
Subject: Team3S:
oil pressure light is on
Hello:
250 miles after an oil change
(Mobil 1 full synthetic, Champion filter, used
Chevron engine flush before
the oil change) I used a dura-lube product
called Restore on my Stealth R/T
1992 with 109000 miles.
Oil pressure warning light started coming on at
idle shortly after that when
the engine was hot (at about 1200 rpm). I
drained the oil, refilled it with
the fresh Mobil 1 oil (same filter).
Problem returned shortly.
Took it to a mechanic. They stuck in a
mechanical gauge, it read 23psi at
idle, 45 at cruising speed. But now I
don't think the engine was hot enough.
Replaced the oil warning light
switch. Same problem. The engine sounded good
as far as I can tell, mechanic
also thought so.
All this happened on a trip, so I had to drive the car
1100 miles.
I drained some oil and there was some brassy filings in it
(not a lot, but
some). Showed it to a mechanic. His response was that I
shouldn't worry too
much about it, that is in his opinion the amount of
brass was normal.
How can you tell if it is worn bearings? Any kind of
specific noise? Should
I see oil leaking anywhere?
How can you tell
if it is the failing oil pump?
Has anybody used that Restore dura-lube
product? Could it cause all this? I
heard some positive opinions about it
elsewhere. Should I flush and replace
the oil filter?
Finally, I have
a leaky oil cap. Can it possibly be it?
What else may be?
I read
archives and saw that a few people had problems of this sort but
didn't find
a direct answer.
Thank you very much.
Andrei
Kryjevski.
*** Info:
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***
------------------------------
End of Team3S: 3000GT &
Stealth V1
#796
***************************************