Team3S: 3000GT & Stealth Thursday, March 28
2002 Volume 01 : Number
795
----------------------------------------------------------------------
Date:
Wed, 27 Mar 2002 12:11:32 -0500
From: "Zobel, Kurt" <
KURT.ZOBEL@ca.com>
Subject: RE:
Team3S: N/A intake hose question
No harm to use the K&N and any
intake hose. It will not change the airflow
significantly, may get you
5hp on the NA. Resonator has never been reported
as a problem when removed.
This is completely within the stock TB and ECU
limits to compensate. I
have a leafblower ram air on my NA, and it has not
had any detrimental effect
in over two years.
Kurt
- -----Original Message-----
From:
M3000GTSL84@aol.com
[mailto:M3000GTSL84@aol.com]
Sent: Monday, March 25, 2002 2:06 PM
To:
Team3S@stealth-3000gt.stSubject:
Team3S: N/A intake hose question
i am the current owner of a 97
3000GT SL. Its stock right now, but i plan
to change that soon. The
first mod i plan on is an intake (K&N), and an
intake pipe to replace
the stock rubber one. My question is, will the pipe
really damage the
car in any way? i kno mitsu didnt put any parts on the
car
just for
laughs, so will removing the resonator, and feeding alot more air
into the
engine hurt it? the car engine is in excellent condition right
now.I kno a
good deal about cars, but the 3000GT is pretty rare and its hard
to find good
advice when your the only one in the neighborhood with it. i
just wanna make
sure i dont waste time, or money, or effort, and make the
car
run
as
good and healthy as possible. thanx for your help
-mike 97
red SL
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 27 Mar 2002 11:22:09
-0600
From: "
merritt@cedar-rapids.net" <
merritt@cedar-rapids.net>
Subject:
Team3S: Running Flat Out for 50 miles
OK, looks like I'm going to do it
-- run the Nebraska open road race (gulp)
www.arnold-ne.com/raceframe.htmlI'll
probably run in the Grand Sport category in the 120 mph group, because it's the
fastest class that does not require a roll bar. This requires me to run an
average speed of 120 mph without exceeding 140. (If time and finances permit, I
may put in a roll bar).
So what do I have to do to keep a 94 VR4 running
at 120+ for 50 miles in the heat of August?
On the track, I get
overheating problems if I run too much 2nd and 3rd gear boost. Think this might
happen at 120+ in 5th and 6th gear? Or will there be enough air to keep
temps down?
I can easily reach the necessary speeds with stock boost.
Think I need to turn down the boost control to stock to preserve the
engine? Or will I need to keep the boost control set high to maintain
enough horsepower?
I have Alamo intercoolers, so I should not get
heat sink, right?
My initial thoughts are to run 103 octane, stock
Michelin Pilots (it's a rough course, so it might damage race tires), and
install a front air dam and chin spoiler. Brakes should not be a problem. Any
other advice?
Has anybody done this before?
Here's a weird
question that has NEVER appeared on the list before: How can I hook a Halda
Twinmaster 100th-reading odometer to a VR4 speedometer? Or, failing that, what
is the state of the art in rally odometers? Is there a wireless sending unit
that will send a pulse to an odo readout inside the car, so I don't need
cables? Can I tap into the ABS sensor for a pulse?
Rich/slow old
poop
94 VR4 w Alamos, DSBC, Stillen, custom catback, K&N, BOV, Supra
pump
Ground Control, Eibachs, camber plates, Big Reds, SS lines, Motul
600
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 27 Mar 2002 10:30:52
-0700
From: "Floyd, Jim" <
Jim_Floyd@maxtor.com>
Subject:
Team3S: RE: 3S-Racers: Running Flat Out for 50 miles
One thing to
consider to get better airflow when running sustained
high speeds is to
remove the air conditioner fan so it does not impede the
air coming
through.
- -----Original
Message--------------------------------------------------
From:
merritt@cedar-rapids.net
[mailto:merritt@cedar-rapids.net]
Sent: Wednesday, March 27, 2002 10:22
AM
To:
3sracers@speedtoys.com;
Team3S@stealth-3000gt.stSubject:
3S-Racers: Running Flat Out for 50 miles
OK, looks like I'm going to do
it -- run the Nebraska open road race (gulp)
www.arnold-ne.com/raceframe.htmlI'll
probably run in the Grand Sport category in the 120 mph group, because
it's
the fastest class that does not require a roll bar. This requires me to
run
an average speed of 120 mph without exceeding 140. (If time and
finances
permit, I may put in a roll bar).
So what do I have to do to
keep a 94 VR4 running at 120+ for 50 miles in the
heat of August?
On
the track, I get overheating problems if I run too much 2nd and 3rd
gear
boost. Think this might happen at 120+ in 5th and 6th gear? Or
will there
be enough air to keep temps down?
I can easily reach the
necessary speeds with stock boost. Think I need to
turn down the boost
control to stock to preserve the engine? Or will I need
to keep the
boost control set high to maintain enough horsepower?
I have Alamo
intercoolers, so I should not get heat sink, right?
My initial thoughts
are to run 103 octane, stock Michelin Pilots (it's a
rough course, so
it might damage race tires), and install a front air dam
and chin spoiler.
Brakes should not be a problem. Any other advice?
Has anybody done this
before?
Here's a weird question that has NEVER appeared on the list
before: How can
I hook a Halda Twinmaster 100th-reading odometer to a VR4
speedometer? Or,
failing that, what is the state of the art in rally
odometers? Is there a
wireless sending unit that will send a pulse to an
odo readout inside the
car, so I don't need cables? Can I tap into the
ABS sensor for a pulse?
Rich/slow old poop
94 VR4 w Alamos, DSBC,
Stillen, custom catback, K&N, BOV, Supra pump
Ground Control, Eibachs,
camber plates, Big Reds, SS lines, Motul 600
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 27 Mar 2002 11:27:58
-0800
From: "ek2mfg" <
ek2mfg@foxinternet.com>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: Running Flat Out for 50 miles
you will have a co-pilot Mr.
old poop...make your co-pilot work for
you with a GPS like the real
boys.....then depending on your finances
you could easily return it
after the wekend or keep something that
is usefull for all year... I would
(this is just my opinion)make a
spread sheet of the course....excell or
something like that....reach
certain points via the gps by a stop watch and
then
compensate...nothing says you cant do 10 mph the last 1000ft :)
wish they had this on the west coast
bobk.
slowless in
seattle
- ---- Original Message ----
From:
merritt@cedar-rapids.netTo:
3sracers@speedtoys.com,
Team3S@stealth-3000gt.stSubject:
RE: Team3S: Running Flat Out for 50 miles
Date: Wed, 27 Mar 2002 11:22:09
-0600
>OK, looks like I'm going to do it -- run the Nebraska open road
race
>(gulp)
>
>www.arnold-ne.com/raceframe.html
>
>I'll
probably run in the Grand Sport category in the 120 mph group,
>because
it's the fastest class that does not require a roll bar.
>This requires
me to run an average speed of 120 mph without
>exceeding 140. (If time
and finances permit, I may put in a roll
>bar).
>
>So what do
I have to do to keep a 94 VR4 running at 120+ for 50
>miles in the heat
of August?
>
>On the track, I get overheating problems if I run too
much 2nd and
>3rd gear boost. Think this might happen at 120+ in 5th and
6th gear?
> Or will there be enough air to keep temps
down?
>
>I can easily reach the necessary speeds with stock boost.
Think I
>need to turn down the boost control to stock to preserve the
engine?
> Or will I need to keep the boost control set high to maintain
>enough horsepower?
>
>I have Alamo intercoolers, so I
should not get heat sink, right?
>
>My initial thoughts are to run
103 octane, stock Michelin Pilots
>(it's a rough course, so it
might damage race tires), and install a
>front air dam and chin spoiler.
Brakes should not be a problem. Any
>other advice?
>
>Has
anybody done this before?
>
>Here's a weird question that has NEVER
appeared on the list before:
>How can I hook a Halda Twinmaster
100th-reading odometer to a VR4
>speedometer? Or, failing that, what is
the state of the art in rally
>odometers? Is there a wireless sending
unit that will send a pulse
>to an odo readout inside the car, so I
don't need cables? Can I tap
>into the ABS sensor for a
pulse?
>
>Rich/slow old poop
>94 VR4 w Alamos, DSBC, Stillen,
custom catback, K&N, BOV, Supra pump
>Ground Control, Eibachs, camber
plates, Big Reds, SS lines, Motul 600
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 27 Mar 2002 13:38:06
-0600
From: "McFarland, Jason M." <
McFarlandJ@health.missouri.edu>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: Running Flat Out for 50 miles
Actually most of these open
road races do have rules about how slow you can go and they won't allow you to
go 10mph the last 1000ft.
- -----Original Message-----
From: ek2mfg
[mailto:ek2mfg@foxinternet.com]
Sent: Wednesday, March 27, 2002 1:28
PM
To:
merritt@cedar-rapids.net;
3sracers@speedtoys.com;
Team3S@stealth-3000gt.stSubject:
RE: Team3S: Running Flat Out for 50 miles
you will have a co-pilot Mr.
old poop...make your co-pilot work for
you with a GPS like the real
boys.....then depending on your finances
you could easily return it
after the wekend or keep something that
is usefull for all year... I would
(this is just my opinion)make a
spread sheet of the course....excell or
something like that....reach
certain points via the gps by a stop watch and
then
compensate...nothing says you cant do 10 mph the last 1000ft :)
wish they had this on the west coast
bobk.
slowless in
seattle
- ---- Original Message ----
From:
merritt@cedar-rapids.netTo:
3sracers@speedtoys.com,
Team3S@stealth-3000gt.stSubject:
RE: Team3S: Running Flat Out for 50 miles
Date: Wed, 27 Mar 2002 11:22:09
-0600
>OK, looks like I'm going to do it -- run the Nebraska open road
race
>(gulp)
>
>www.arnold-ne.com/raceframe.html
>
>I'll
probably run in the Grand Sport category in the 120 mph group,
>because
it's the fastest class that does not require a roll bar.
>This requires
me to run an average speed of 120 mph without
>exceeding 140. (If time
and finances permit, I may put in a roll
>bar).
>
>So what do
I have to do to keep a 94 VR4 running at 120+ for 50
>miles in the heat
of August?
>
>On the track, I get overheating problems if I run too
much 2nd and
>3rd gear boost. Think this might happen at 120+ in 5th and
6th gear?
> Or will there be enough air to keep temps
down?
>
>I can easily reach the necessary speeds with stock boost.
Think I
>need to turn down the boost control to stock to preserve the
engine?
> Or will I need to keep the boost control set high to maintain
>enough horsepower?
>
>I have Alamo intercoolers, so I
should not get heat sink, right?
>
>My initial thoughts are to run
103 octane, stock Michelin Pilots
>(it's a rough course, so it
might damage race tires), and install a
>front air dam and chin spoiler.
Brakes should not be a problem. Any
>other advice?
>
>Has
anybody done this before?
>
>Here's a weird question that has NEVER
appeared on the list before:
>How can I hook a Halda Twinmaster
100th-reading odometer to a VR4
>speedometer? Or, failing that, what is
the state of the art in rally
>odometers? Is there a wireless sending
unit that will send a pulse
>to an odo readout inside the car, so I
don't need cables? Can I tap
>into the ABS sensor for a
pulse?
>
>Rich/slow old poop
>94 VR4 w Alamos, DSBC, Stillen,
custom catback, K&N, BOV, Supra pump
>Ground Control, Eibachs, camber
plates, Big Reds, SS lines, Motul 600
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 27 Mar 2002 13:34:37
-0600
From: "
merritt@cedar-rapids.net" <
merritt@cedar-rapids.net>
Subject:
Team3S: RE: 3S-Racers: Running Flat Out for 50 miles
I didn't know we had
one.
Just two fans behind the radiator, right?
Rich
At 10:30
AM 3/27/02 -0700, Floyd, Jim wrote:
>
> One thing to consider to get
better airflow when running sustained
>high speeds is to remove the air
conditioner fan so it does not impede the
>air coming
through.
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 27 Mar 2002 13:41:02
-0600
From: "
merritt@cedar-rapids.net" <
merritt@cedar-rapids.net>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: Running Flat Out for 50 miles
Whoever wins the class will
enter the last checkpoint with an average speed of 120.00 mph exactly. GPS is
not exact enough. Ya need exact mileages. And you cannot slow down on course,
especially in sight of a checkpoint. It's cause for exclusion.
At 11:27
AM 3/27/02 -0800, ek2mfg wrote:
>you will have a co-pilot Mr. old
poop...make your co-pilot work for
>you with a GPS like the real
boys.....then depending on your finances
>you could easily return it
after the wekend or keep something that
>is usefull for all year... I
would (this is just my opinion)make a
>spread sheet of the
course....excell or something like that....reach
>certain points via the
gps by a stop watch and then
>compensate...nothing says you cant do 10 mph
the last 1000ft :)
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 27 Mar 2002 11:48:06
-0800
From: "Bob Forrest" <
bf@bobforrest.com>
Subject: Team3S:
Help with datalogger knock
{{{Posted for Bill, who has no outgoing email
right now. Please direct
replies to him at:
billvp@highstream.net}}}
Pocketlogger
showing high knock at low boost.
I made my first ever run with the
pocketlogger in, and I was very
disappointed in the knock sums I was getting
-- at only 11 psi!! Please
check out my log at
http://www.3si.org/vbb/showthread.php?s=&threadid=71407.
I
have 15G's, 550 injectors, Walbro pump, VPC, SAFC, EGT gauge, O2 gauge
(new
O2 sensors also), boost controller, full exhaust,
etc.
Thanks,
Bill
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 27 Mar 2002 12:00:43
-0800 (PST)
From: Geoff Mohler <
gemohler@www.speedtoys.com>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Running Flat Out for 50 miles
1) install Evans NPG+ as
coolant
2) you shoudlnt overheat..as the high-load, low speed issues shoundt
be
there like a road course
3) race rubber is pretty strong..I dont see
them having a race like this
on chunked highway.
On Wed, 27 Mar 2002,
merritt@cedar-rapids.net
wrote:
> OK, looks like I'm going to do it -- run the Nebraska open
road race (gulp)
>
>
www.arnold-ne.com/raceframe.html>
> I'll probably run in the Grand Sport category in the 120 mph group,
because it's the fastest class that does not require a roll bar. This requires
me to run an average speed of 120 mph without exceeding 140. (If time and
finances permit, I may put in a roll bar).
>
> So what do I have to
do to keep a 94 VR4 running at 120+ for 50 miles in the heat of August?
>
> On the track, I get overheating problems if I run too much 2nd and 3rd
gear boost. Think this might happen at 120+ in 5th and 6th gear? Or will
there be enough air to keep temps down?
>
> I can easily reach the
necessary speeds with stock boost. Think I need to turn down the boost control
to stock to preserve the engine? Or will I need to keep the boost control
set high to maintain enough horsepower?
>
> I have Alamo
intercoolers, so I should not get heat sink, right?
>
> My initial
thoughts are to run 103 octane, stock Michelin Pilots (it's a rough
course, so it might damage race tires), and install a front air dam and chin
spoiler. Brakes should not be a problem. Any other advice?
>
> Has
anybody done this before?
>
> Here's a weird question that has
NEVER appeared on the list before: How can I hook a Halda Twinmaster
100th-reading odometer to a VR4 speedometer? Or, failing that, what is the state
of the art in rally odometers? Is there a wireless sending unit that will send a
pulse to an odo readout inside the car, so I don't need cables? Can I tap
into the ABS sensor for a pulse?
>
> Rich/slow old poop
> 94
VR4 w Alamos, DSBC, Stillen, custom catback, K&N, BOV, Supra pump
>
Ground Control, Eibachs, camber plates, Big Reds, SS lines, Motul 600
-
---
Geoff Mohler
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 27 Mar 2002 12:08:09
-0800 (PST)
From: Geoff Mohler <
gemohler@www.speedtoys.com>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: RE: 3S-Racers: Running Flat Out for 50 miles
At the rates he
will be moving, and the HP levels hes at..I dont see that
as an
issue.
Just upgrade to a racing coolant..and call it done.
On Wed,
27 Mar 2002,
merritt@cedar-rapids.net
wrote:
> I didn't know we had one.
> Just two fans behind the
radiator, right?
>
> Rich
>
> At 10:30 AM 3/27/02
-0700, Floyd, Jim wrote:
> >
> > One thing to consider to get
better airflow when running sustained
> >high speeds is to remove the
air conditioner fan so it does not impede the
> >air coming
through.
- ---
Geoff Mohler
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 27 Mar 2002 14:07:24
-0600
From: "
merritt@cedar-rapids.net" <
merritt@cedar-rapids.net>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Running Flat Out for 50 miles
At 12:00 PM 3/27/02 -0800,
Geoff Mohler wrote:
>1) install Evans NPG+ as coolant
What's that?
Never heard of it.
>2) you shoudlnt overheat..as the high-load, low
speed issues shoundt be
>there like a road course
Hope not.
>3) race rubber is pretty strong..I dont see them having a race like
this
>on chunked highway.
It was a recommendation from the race
organizers.
Rich
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 27 Mar 2002 12:20:58
-0800 (PST)
From: Geoff Mohler <
gemohler@www.speedtoys.com>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Running Flat Out for 50 miles
http://www.evanscooling.com/Stable
to 350d, doesnt increase in pressure as it heats..get NPG+.
On Wed, 27
Mar 2002,
merritt@cedar-rapids.net
wrote:
> At 12:00 PM 3/27/02 -0800, Geoff Mohler wrote:
> >1)
install Evans NPG+ as coolant
>
> What's that? Never heard of
it.
>
> >2) you shoudlnt overheat..as the high-load, low speed
issues shoundt be
> >there like a road course
>
> Hope
not.
>
> >3) race rubber is pretty strong..I dont see them
having a race like this
> >on chunked highway.
>
> It was
a recommendation from the race organizers.
>
> Rich
-
---
Geoff Mohler
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 27 Mar 2002 12:18:08
-0800
From: "ek2mfg" <
ek2mfg@foxinternet.com>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: Running Flat Out for 50 miles
Well it seems the first to say
something gets the torch....glad to
see it hasn't changed. My point was that
with distance and time you
could layout a time table for every 10th of a
mile...you will have
the course map before the race and a GPS WILL get you
within 3yrds.
of where you are.....mark out the points for distance and time
with
your co-pilot (cuz you will be flying after all) ...it will be
over
in 30 minutes anyway...when you finish the run just ask people
who
have done it before...you will most certainly have 1 more run
than
most on this list.
Green in envy....
bobk.
- ----
Original Message ----
From:
merritt@cedar-rapids.netTo:
ek2mfg@foxinternet.com,
3sracers@speedtoys.com,
>Team3S@stealth-3000gt.st
Subject: RE: Team3S: Running Flat Out for 50
miles
Date: Wed, 27 Mar 2002 13:41:02 -0600
>Whoever wins the class
will enter the last checkpoint with an
>average speed of 120.00 mph
exactly. GPS is not exact enough. Ya
>need exact mileages. And you cannot
slow down on course, especially
>in sight of a checkpoint. It's cause for
exclusion.
>
>At 11:27 AM 3/27/02 -0800, ek2mfg
wrote:
>>you will have a co-pilot Mr. old poop...make your co-pilot
work for
>>you with a GPS like the real boys.....then depending on your
>finances
>>you could easily return it after the wekend or
keep something that
>>is usefull for all year... I would (this is just
my opinion)make a
>>spread sheet of the course....excell or something
like that....reach
>>certain points via the gps by a stop watch and
then
>>compensate...nothing says you cant do 10 mph the last 1000ft :)
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 27 Mar 2002 14:29:32
-0600
From: "
merritt@cedar-rapids.net" <
merritt@cedar-rapids.net>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: Running Flat Out for 50 miles
A>My point was that with
distance and time you
>could layout a time table for every 10th of a
mile..
Actually, you have a very good idea there.
I don't know why I
didn't think of it before.
At 120 mph, the min per mile factor is 0.50
(30 seconds/mile). That means, all I have to do is divide every instruction by
2, and it gives me the time that I should execute each instruction. For example,
I should encounter "Suhr's Place" exactly 2 min and 30 sec after leaving the
start line, and I should enter checkpoint 1 exactly 3.65 min (3 min 39 sec)
after starting the leg.
Who needs a Halda or a GPS?
The mileage-based
instructions (see below) should work just fine.
That solves THAT little
problem.
Thanks.
Rich
>
>0.0 START LINE
0.1 Dip in Road
0.5 Go uphill
0.6 Down
0.7 Left bend
1.1 Down straight
1.1 Right bend
1.4 Uphill left bend Judkins Hill
1.5 Guard rails
start
1.7 Left bend
1.8 Right
bend
2.0 Left bend
2.1 Right
bend
2.3 Long sweeping right bend downhill Into .7 mile
Straight
3.0 Left bend uphill Into .4 mile Straight
3.4
Left bend Into .3 mile Straight
3.7 Right bend
3.9 Left bend Into uphill straight
Dip Straight downhill
5.0 Suhr's Place
5.3 1st road intersection
Mills Valley Road
5.5 Lucus's Place
6.3 Left
turn
Checkpoint 1 7.3
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 27 Mar 2002 17:31:46
-0500
From: Joe Gonsowski <
twinturbo@comcast.net>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Running Flat Out for 50 miles
Couple comments.
I ran
the Sept. '99 Silver State Classic in the 125mph average speed class.
This
was the fastest they would allow me to go without a roll bar or cage.
It was
a standing start and we couldn't exceed 140 mph during the 90
mile
course. My car didn't even break a sweat at those speeds. A
perfect time
would have been 43 minutes 12 seconds as I recall and we were
about 2
seconds off which put us in 6th / 19 cars in our class. A Viper
won our
class with the aid of GPS, most teams with GPS did extremely
well.
BTW - Ken Kribley (sp?) often runs the SSC in his nearly stock 1st
gen VR-4
and has won the 150 and 155 mph class more than once.
These
events are a blast, I will again head west for the SSC once my '92
gets back
on the road (with a cage). I'm building my safety equipment to
pass the
tech inspection for speeds up to 180mph. After that, it gets
very
expensive to pass tech.
Joe Gonsowski
'92 & '96 R/T
TT
- ----- Original Message -----
From: <
merritt@cedar-rapids.net>
To:
"ek2mfg" <
ek2mfg@foxinternet.com>; <
3sracers@speedtoys.com>;
<
Team3S@stealth-3000gt.st>
Sent:
Wednesday, March 27, 2002 2:41 PM
Subject: RE: Team3S: Running Flat Out for
50 miles
> Whoever wins the class will enter the last checkpoint with
an average
speed of 120.00 mph exactly. GPS is not exact enough. Ya need
exact
mileages. And you cannot slow down on course, especially in sight of
a
checkpoint. It's cause for exclusion.
>
> At 11:27 AM 3/27/02
-0800, ek2mfg wrote:
> >you will have a co-pilot Mr. old poop...make
your co-pilot work for
> >you with a GPS like the real boys.....then
depending on your finances
> >you could easily return it after
the wekend or keep something that
> >is usefull for all year... I would
(this is just my opinion)make a
> >spread sheet of the course....excell
or something like that....reach
> >certain points via the gps by a stop
watch and then
> >compensate...nothing says you cant do 10 mph the last
1000ft :)
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 27 Mar 2002 15:45:57
-0700
From: "Floyd, Jim" <
Jim_Floyd@maxtor.com>
Subject: RE:
Team3S: Running Flat Out for 50 miles
Joe,
Are you going with a
roll cage or roll bar ?
What brand are you using ?
- -----Original
Message-------------------------------
From: Joe Gonsowski
[mailto:twinturbo@comcast.net]
Sent: Wednesday, March 27, 2002 3:32 PM
To:
Team3S@stealth-3000gt.stSubject:
Re: Team3S: Running Flat Out for 50 miles
Couple comments.
I ran
the Sept. '99 Silver State Classic in the 125mph average speed class.
This
was the fastest they would allow me to go without a roll bar or cage.
It was
a standing start and we couldn't exceed 140 mph during the 90
mile
course. My car didn't even break a sweat at those speeds. A
perfect time
would have been 43 minutes 12 seconds as I recall and we were
about 2
seconds off which put us in 6th / 19 cars in our class. A Viper
won our
class with the aid of GPS, most teams with GPS did extremely
well.
BTW - Ken Kribley (sp?) often runs the SSC in his nearly stock 1st
gen VR-4
and has won the 150 and 155 mph class more than once.
These
events are a blast, I will again head west for the SSC once my '92
gets back
on the road (with a cage). I'm building my safety equipment to
pass the
tech inspection for speeds up to 180mph. After that, it gets
very
expensive to pass tech.
Joe Gonsowski
'92 & '96 R/T
TT
- ----- Original Message -----
From: <
merritt@cedar-rapids.net>
To:
"ek2mfg" <
ek2mfg@foxinternet.com>; <
3sracers@speedtoys.com>;
<
Team3S@stealth-3000gt.st>
Sent:
Wednesday, March 27, 2002 2:41 PM
Subject: RE: Team3S: Running Flat Out for
50 miles
> Whoever wins the class will enter the last checkpoint with
an average
speed of 120.00 mph exactly. GPS is not exact enough. Ya need
exact
mileages. And you cannot slow down on course, especially in sight of
a
checkpoint. It's cause for exclusion.
>
> At 11:27 AM 3/27/02
-0800, ek2mfg wrote:
> >you will have a co-pilot Mr. old poop...make
your co-pilot work for
> >you with a GPS like the real boys.....then
depending on your finances
> >you could easily return it after
the wekend or keep something that
> >is usefull for all year... I would
(this is just my opinion)make a
> >spread sheet of the course....excell
or something like that....reach
> >certain points via the gps by a stop
watch and then
> >compensate...nothing says you cant do 10 mph the last
1000ft :)
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 27 Mar 2002 16:48:30
-0600
From: "
merritt@cedar-rapids.net" <
merritt@cedar-rapids.net>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: Running Flat Out for 50 miles
Joe:
Sounds like you are
telling me the 120 mph class is no big deal for our cars, and I should not worry
about the mechanicals. That about it?
If so, that is a huge relief. Thanks.
Rich
>From: Joe Gonsowski
[mailto:twinturbo@comcast.net]
>
>I ran the Sept. '99 Silver State
Classic in the 125mph average speed class.
>This was the fastest they
would allow me to go without a roll bar or cage.
>It was a standing start
and we couldn't exceed 140 mph during the 90 mile
>course. My car
didn't even break a sweat at those speeds.
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 27 Mar 2002 18:45:36
-0500
From: Joe Gonsowski <
twinturbo@comcast.net>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Running Flat Out for 50 miles
It will be a custom 6 point
cage. Details are still a bit fuzzy, but I will
likely be contracting
the job to Roush. I need to first get the car running
and make some
decent 1/4 mile passes. After all, drag racing is MUCH more
important
than road racing although I enjoy both.
My cage will meet IHRA & NHRA
requirements for a 10 second car. This cage
would easily meet the SSC
Grand Sport requirements of a roll bar which will
allow speeds up to 165mph
and 150 average. I just re-read the requirements
for a 180 tech speed
and may not go that far (I think the rules have changed
since '99).
I'll have to be satisfied with participating in a 150 average
speed class
(very large and competitive class).
Joe G.
- ----- Original
Message -----
From: "Floyd, Jim" <
Jim_Floyd@maxtor.com>
To: <
Team3S@stealth-3000gt.st>
Sent:
Wednesday, March 27, 2002 5:45 PM
Subject: RE: Team3S: Running Flat Out for
50 miles
> Joe,
>
> Are you going with a roll cage or roll
bar ?
> What brand are you using ?
>
> -----Original
Message-------------------------------
> From: Joe Gonsowski
[mailto:twinturbo@comcast.net]
> Sent: Wednesday, March 27, 2002 3:32
PM
> To:
Team3S@stealth-3000gt.st>
Subject: Re: Team3S: Running Flat Out for 50 miles
>
>
>
Couple comments.
>
> I ran the Sept. '99 Silver State Classic in the
125mph average speed
class.
> This was the fastest they would allow me
to go without a roll bar or cage.
> It was a standing start and we
couldn't exceed 140 mph during the 90 mile
> course. My car didn't
even break a sweat at those speeds. A perfect time
> would have been
43 minutes 12 seconds as I recall and we were about 2
> seconds off which
put us in 6th / 19 cars in our class. A Viper won our
> class with
the aid of GPS, most teams with GPS did extremely well.
>
> BTW -
Ken Kribley (sp?) often runs the SSC in his nearly stock 1st gen
VR-4
>
and has won the 150 and 155 mph class more than once.
>
> These
events are a blast, I will again head west for the SSC once my '92
> gets
back on the road (with a cage). I'm building my safety equipment
to
> pass the tech inspection for speeds up to 180mph. After that,
it gets
very
> expensive to pass tech.
>
> Joe
Gonsowski
> '92 & '96 R/T TT
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 27 Mar 2002 18:52:55
-0500
From: Joe Gonsowski <
twinturbo@comcast.net>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Running Flat Out for 50 miles
I bet you spend more time with
a vacuum in the manifold than boost. A
couple minutes into the race,
after you get used to the wind noise, you'll
think 120mph is slow. Just
put it in overdrive and have fun, the engine
will not be working very hard to
maintain 120mph (road load still low,
aero-drag not yet taking
off).
Joe G.
- ----- Original Message -----
From: <
merritt@cedar-rapids.net>
To:
"Floyd, Jim" <
Jim_Floyd@maxtor.com>; <
Team3S@stealth-3000gt.st>
Sent:
Wednesday, March 27, 2002 5:48 PM
Subject: RE: Team3S: Running Flat Out for
50 miles
> Joe:
>
> Sounds like you are telling me the 120
mph class is no big deal for our
cars, and I should not worry about the
mechanicals. That about it?
> If so, that is a huge relief.
Thanks.
>
> Rich
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 27 Mar 2002 21:10:56
EST
From:
DonBrando36@aol.comSubject: Team3S:
summit racing product
i saw in the march/april
magazine of summit racing, a throttle body
spacer that increases the
velocity of the air and fuel. It says that it
improves fuel
atomization and increases combustion. Has anyone used it, and
do you
think i shoud try it? its only
$89.95.
thanks
brandon
93 3000GT N/A
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 27 Mar 2002 20:18:12
-0600
From: "Trevor James" <
trevor@kscable.com>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: Running Flat Out for 50 miles
I did some testing here on the
plains here in Kansas when my car was BPU. On
flat land I was in solid vaccum
until 100mph when the car started
occasionally getting into positive boost.
EGT's were 1530-1560F at 100mph.
Of course this a 6 speed car in 6th
gear...the 5 speed may be able to hold
higher speeds in 5th without requiring
positive manifold pressure.
Trevor
96 R/T TT,
11.82@116.1, 93 Octane & Plain Radials
97
VR-4, Bone diggily stock!
- ----- Original Message -----
From: "Joe
Gonsowski" <
twinturbo@comcast.net>
To: <
merritt@cedar-rapids.net>; "Floyd,
Jim" <
Jim_Floyd@maxtor.com>;
<
Team3S@stealth-3000gt.st>
Sent:
Wednesday, March 27, 2002 5:52 PM
Subject: Re: Team3S: Running Flat Out for
50 miles
> I bet you spend more time with a vacuum in the manifold
than boost. A
> couple minutes into the race, after you get used to
the wind noise, you'll
> think 120mph is slow. Just put it in
overdrive and have fun, the engine
> will not be working very hard to
maintain 120mph (road load still low,
> aero-drag not yet taking
off).
>
> Joe G.
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 27 Mar 2002 21:34:21
-0700
From: "Paul Prentis" <
paul@ppeengineering.com>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Running Flat Out for 50 miles
How does the NPG+ not increase
in pressure at the temperature increases?
According to PV=nRT, if the
temperature increases the pressure has to
increase, if the volume of the
coolant system is constant and the amount of
coolant inside the coolant
system is constant.
Paul
- ----- Original Message -----
From:
"Geoff Mohler" <
gemohler@www.speedtoys.com>
To:
<
merritt@cedar-rapids.net>
Cc:
<
3sracers@speedtoys.com>;
<
Team3S@stealth-3000gt.st>
Sent:
Wednesday, March 27, 2002 1:20 PM
Subject: Re: Team3S: Running Flat Out for
50 miles
>
http://www.evanscooling.com/>
>
Stable to 350d, doesnt increase in pressure as it heats..get
NPG+.
>
> On Wed, 27 Mar 2002,
merritt@cedar-rapids.net
wrote:
>
> > At 12:00 PM 3/27/02 -0800, Geoff Mohler
wrote:
> > >1) install Evans NPG+ as coolant
> >
>
> What's that? Never heard of it.
> >
> > >2) you
shoudlnt overheat..as the high-load, low speed issues shoundt be
> >
>there like a road course
> >
> > Hope not.
>
>
> > >3) race rubber is pretty strong..I dont see them having a
race like
this
> > >on chunked highway.
> >
> >
It was a recommendation from the race organizers.
> >
> >
Rich
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 27 Mar 2002 20:45:56
-0800
From: "fastmax" <
fastmax@cox.net>
Subject: Re: Team3S:
Running Flat Out for 50 miles
The equation you quoted is for gases not
liquids or solids.
Jim
Berry
=============================================
- ----- Original
Message -----
From: "Paul Prentis" <
paul@ppeengineering.com>
>
How does the NPG+ not increase in pressure at the temperature increases?
>
According to PV=nRT, if the temperature increases the pressure has to
>
increase, if the volume of the coolant system is constant and the amount
of
> coolant inside the coolant system is constant.
>
>
Paul
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 27 Mar 2002 21:50:16
-0700
From: "Paul Prentis" <
paul@ppeengineering.com>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Running Flat Out for 50 miles
Apparently that's why it
doesn't make sense. :)
- ----- Original Message -----
From: "fastmax"
<
fastmax@cox.net>
To: "Paul
Prentis" <
paul@ppeengineering.com>; <
Team3S@stealth-3000gt.st>
Sent:
Wednesday, March 27, 2002 9:45 PM
Subject: Re: Team3S: Running Flat Out for
50 miles
> The equation you quoted is for gases not liquids or
solids.
>
> Jim
Berry
> =============================================
> -----
Original Message -----
> From: "Paul Prentis" <
paul@ppeengineering.com>
>
>
>
> How does the NPG+ not increase in pressure at the temperature
increases?
> > According to PV=nRT, if the temperature increases the
pressure has to
> > increase, if the volume of the coolant system is
constant and the amount
of
> > coolant inside the coolant system is
constant.
> >
> > Paul
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 27 Mar 2002 21:34:28
-0800
From: "Ken Middaugh" <
kmiddaugh@ixpres.com>
Subject:
Team3S: Re: AVCR Learn Mode clarification
> The bigger question is
what happens if I open the throttle by 86% and it
> starts learning. Will
it then learn to produce partial boost (0.86 bar) or
> the full boost (1
bar). Will it then overshoot if I open it to 100% after
> it
learns???
If you learn your baseline duty curve at WOT, this shouldn't be
a problem.
If you began driving and never exceeded 86% throttle (pretty
unlikely), then
the Apexi would learn that your 86% throttle position to be
the max and
adjust (up) your curve accordingly. Just floor it once in
awhile and you
won't have a problem :).
> Page 30 also
says:
> "If the Start Duty is set to 0%, the self learning will be
active."
>
> I was able to make the AVCR learn even with the Start
Duty set at 25%, so
I
> do not understand what they wanted to say here.
That was in 2nd gear and
> there was no overshooting because the Duty was
set low.
If you indeed had Start Duty set, you were not learning for that
gear. A
Start Duty setting other than 0 disables learning for that
gear. If you
meant that you had an "Initial Duty" setting, then you
could indeed be
learning.
- -Ken
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 27 Mar 2002 21:45:25
-0800
From: "Ken Middaugh" <
kmiddaugh@ixpres.com>
Subject:
Team3S: Re: AVCR Learn Mode clarification
>I have not tried it yet,
but what I ideally want to see is the
>solenoid duty cycle that
immediately goes up to 100% when I
>step on gas and then, after the boost
raises to target, sharply
>down to whatever is needed to maintain the
target boost. This
>could all be monitored in the 2-channel Y-time display
mode. It
>could also be recorded for 30 seconds and then played
back.
When you monitor the boost and solenoid values, what you will see
is that
the solenoid value immediatly jumps up to 90% upon WOT. Then
just before
your desired boost is attained, the solenoid value drops to your
learned
curve. The solenoid value then smoothly curves upward
(following your
learned curve) as RPM increases.
-
-Ken
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 27 Mar 2002 21:38:53
-0800
From: "Ken Middaugh" <
kmiddaugh@ixpres.com>
Subject:
Team3S: Re: AVCR Learn Mode clarification
> more runs with take care
of that. Which brings up my next question, how
> many runs need to
be run in order for it to have "learned" the gear ?
The more runs, the
better the curve. However, it only takes 3 or so
accellerations from
around 2K to Redline in one gear to get a decent curve.
***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 27 Mar 2002 22:14:41
-0800 (PST)
From: Geoff Mohler <
gemohler@www.speedtoys.com>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Running Flat Out for 50 miles
But not all fluids do this
linearly..or at all.
They comment that a 0psi system is perfectly
stable. Youd have to ask
them.
Of course, if you reach 350d or
so, thier product WILL boil..which will
raise pressure. But if you
reach that point..you have far larger issues.
On Wed, 27 Mar 2002,
Paul Prentis wrote:
> How does the NPG+ not increase in pressure at
the temperature increases?
> According to PV=nRT, if the temperature
increases the pressure has to
> increase, if the volume of the coolant
system is constant and the amount of
> coolant inside the coolant system
is constant.
>
> Paul
>
- ---
Geoff
Mohler
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 28 Mar 2002 07:53:19
+0100
From: "Mikael Kenson" <
vr4@bahnhof.se>
Subject: Re: Team3S:
lawsuit against Mitsubishi regarding Gretag transmission
I don't
think the gear box it self is the problem... The main problem is the clutch.
Not that the clutch can't handle power it's just that Mitsubishi know
that we are poor stick drivers and tryed to help us by putting a "valve plate"
in the bleeder housing. This makes the clutch slip some every time you press it
down and release it. I believe that this slip causes alot of the syncro problems
by not letting the clutch engage quick enough.
If you press down the
clutch and just as quickly as possible removes you foot, what will happen? The
clutch pedal will "slowly" come back up. If you remove this valve and do the
same the pedal will be as quick as you foot!
The Mitsu Evo 6 we have here
in sweden (around 80 cars) have all been recalled becasuse all smoke the clutch
within a few weeks. What Mitsu does is to remove the clutch restriction and
after that no more clutch problems.
I also found this page on the net
http://www.jumptronix.com/2g_go_faster/Faqs/clutch_restrictor_removal_faq.htmIf
you do this you must understand that your car will be harder to
drive.
However, the transfer case is the worst crap that someone ever
built. You just need to take a two second look at it to see that there just is
no way a tiny ugly thing like that can hold even the stock power. Getrag
must have been on crack when they designed that junk.
/Mikael
http://www.3000gt.nu***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 28 Mar 2002 07:34:12
+0000
From:
apedenko@attbi.comSubject: Re: Team3S:
lawsuit against Mitsubishi regarding Gretag transmission
Does this
apply to aftermarket clutches as well? I have
an RPS ][. Do i need to go
through this?
Alex
'95 Vr4 with a bad tranny.
> I
don't think the gear box it self is the problem... The main problem is the
> clutch.
>
> Not that the clutch can't handle power it's
just that Mitsubishi know that we
> are poor stick drivers and tryed to
help us by putting a "valve plate" in the
> bleeder housing. This makes
the clutch slip some every time you press it down
> and release it. I
believe that this slip causes alot of the syncro problems by
> not
letting the clutch engage quick enough.
>
> If you press down the
clutch and just as quickly as possible removes you foot,
> what will
happen? The clutch pedal will "slowly" come back up. If you remove
> this
valve and do the same the pedal will be as quick as you foot!
>
>
The Mitsu Evo 6 we have here in sweden (around 80 cars) have all been recalled
> becasuse all smoke the clutch within a few weeks. What Mitsu does is to
remove
> the clutch restriction and after that no more clutch problems.
>
> I also found this page on the net
>
http://www.jumptronix.com/2g_go_faster/Faqs/clutch_restrictor_removal_faq.htm>
> If you do this you must understand that your car will be harder to
drive.
>
> However, the transfer case is the worst crap that
someone ever built. You just
> need to take a two second look at it to
see that there just is no way a tiny
> ugly thing like that can
hold even the stock power. Getrag must have been on
> crack when they
designed that junk.
>
> /Mikael
http://www.3000gt.nu***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 28 Mar 2002 00:01:55
-0800
From: "Riyan Mynuddin" <
riyan@hotpop.com>
Subject: RE: Team3S:
starting problem
Hey all-
here's the scoop.
Thanks for
bringing that up. My existing ignition coil was out of spec. I
bought a new
one, and it is just as far out of spec. I believe that the FSM
manual has an
error in it. I found the camshaft timing marks to be off. That
would probably
stop it from starting, huh? I might replace the crankshaft
angle sensor while
I'm in there, and do some of the 60,000 mile work that's
been pending.
Nevertheless, what this means is that my belt slipped. It's
prone to do it
again, so I'm going to get the thing replaced and talk to my
mechanic about
what else could have gone wrong (bent valves, etc.) as a
result of the belt
slipping.
Riyan
- -----Original Message-----
From: Ken Middaugh
[mailto:kmiddaugh@ixpres.com]
Sent: Wednesday, March 27, 2002 9:13 PM
To:
Riyan Mynuddin
Subject: Re: Team3S: starting problem
Hi
Riyan,
> When you replaced the ignition module, do you remember
testing it all
first?
Nope. I was too lazy to try to understand
the procedure listed in chapter
13 of my service manual. I did check
the camshaft angle sensor (mine is a
'91 VR4) and it checked out fine.
I finally decided to start replacing
things with the least expensive
first. The ignition module was about $160
from Norco
Mitsubishi.
Good luck!
- -Ken
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 28 Mar 2002 10:01:27
+0100
From: Roger Gerl <
roger.gerl@bluewin.ch>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: summit racing product
At 21:10 27.03.2002 -0500,
DonBrando36@aol.com
wrote:
> i saw in the march/april magazine of
summit racing, a throttle body
>spacer that increases the velocity of the
air and fuel. It says that it
>improves fuel atomization and
increases combustion. Has anyone used it, and
>do you think i shoud
try it? its only
$89.95.
>
thanks
No, I think you should not try it. Fuel is injected to the valves
and not
the close to the throttle body. It will not help at all if not being
a
restriction. And even if the air is smoothened out after the TB it is only
from the TB to the runners and that's it.
Roger
93'3000GT TT
www.rtec.ch*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 28 Mar 2002 08:50:37
-0600
From: "Black, Dave (ICT)" <
dblai@allstate.com>
Subject: Team3S:
Uh-oh, oil where it shouldn't be?
Hi all,
When re-gapping my plugs
this past week, I noticed that there was a small
amount of oil in 2
places. This concerned me somewhat and I thought I'd ask
if this was
normal. This was the first time I'd removed the plenum so I
wasn't
sure.
I found a small amount of oil:
1. in the top-rear
intercooler pipe
2. on the intake plenum gasket
I checked the Y-pipe
and it was clean. I have 2 pics of the gasket I can
send to anyone who
can help diagnose. Is this a problem?
Dave 95VR4
http://www.daveblack.net***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 28 Mar 2002 07:24:00
-0800
From: "fastmax" <
fastmax@cox.net>
Subject: Re: Team3S:
lawsuit against Mitsubishi regarding Gretag transmission
I looked
at the manual and the drawings do show a valve plate in the
output of the
clutch slave cylinder --- it's function is not described and
I can't tell
from the drawing. Removing it as described on the net may
indeed increase
clutch response speed.
Jim
Berry
================================================
- ----- Original
Message -----
From: <
apedenko@attbi.com>
To: "Mikael
Kenson" <
vr4@bahnhof.se>
Cc: <
Team3S@stealth-3000gt.st>; "Roger
Gerl" <
roger.gerl@bluewin.ch>
Sent:
Wednesday, March 27, 2002 11:34 PM
Subject: Re: Team3S: lawsuit against
Mitsubishi regarding Gretag transmission
> Does this apply to
aftermarket clutches as well? I have
> an RPS ][. Do i need to go through
this?
>
> Alex
>
> '95 Vr4 with a bad
tranny.
> > I don't think the gear box it self is the problem... The
main problem is the
> > clutch.
> >
> > Not that
the clutch can't handle power it's just that Mitsubishi know that we
>
> are poor stick drivers and tryed to help us by putting a "valve plate" in
the
> > bleeder housing. This makes the clutch slip some every time
you press it down
> > and release it. I believe that this slip causes
alot of the syncro problems by
> > not letting the clutch engage quick
enough.
> >
> > If you press down the clutch and just as
quickly as possible removes you foot,
> > what will happen? The clutch
pedal will "slowly" come back up. If you remove
> > this valve and do
the same the pedal will be as quick as you foot!
> >
> > The
Mitsu Evo 6 we have here in sweden (around 80 cars) have all been recalled
> > becasuse all smoke the clutch within a few weeks. What Mitsu does
is to remove
> > the clutch restriction and after that no more clutch
problems.
> >
> > I also found this page on the net
>
>
http://www.jumptronix.com/2g_go_faster/Faqs/clutch_restrictor_removal_faq.htm>
>
> > If you do this you must understand that your car will be
harder to drive.
> >
> > However, the transfer case is the
worst crap that someone ever built. You just
> > need to take a two
second look at it to see that there just is no way a tiny
> >
ugly thing like that can hold even the stock power. Getrag must have been on
> > crack when they designed that junk.
> >
> >
/Mikael
http://www.3000gt.nu***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 28 Mar 2002 07:28:58
-0800
From: "fastmax" <
fastmax@cox.net>
Subject: Re: Team3S:
Uh-oh, oil where it shouldn't be?
I've noticed a small amount of oil in
my system ---- more like a misting with
a drop or two at the bottom of some
spaces, I think that's normal. As to how
much is abnormal I don't
know.
Jim
Berry
===========================================
- ----- Original Message
-----
From: "Black, Dave (ICT)" <
dblai@allstate.com>
To: "Team3s
(E-mail)" <
Team3S@stealth-3000gt.st>; <
stealth@starnet.net>
Sent: Thursday,
March 28, 2002 6:50 AM
Subject: Team3S: Uh-oh, oil where it shouldn't
be?
> Hi all,
>
> When re-gapping my plugs this past
week, I noticed that there was a small
> amount of oil in 2 places.
This concerned me somewhat and I thought I'd ask
> if this was
normal. This was the first time I'd removed the plenum so I
> wasn't
sure.
>
> I found a small amount of oil:
>
> 1. in the
top-rear intercooler pipe
> 2. on the intake plenum gasket
>
> I checked the Y-pipe and it was clean. I have 2 pics of the
gasket I can
> send to anyone who can help diagnose. Is this a
problem?
>
> Dave 95VR4
>
http://www.daveblack.net***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 28 Mar 2002 09:41:50
-0600
From: "Willis, Charles E." <
cewillis@TexasChildrensHospital.org>
Subject:
Team3S: RE: 3S-Racers: Boost II
Geoff,
You are right. The
instructions just have to be followed. Many of us who
do our own work
do it in desperation because we can't find anyone who WILL
just follow the
instructions. I'm glad Rich has found a shop that he's
happy
with.
Chuck
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Geoff
Mohler [SMTP:gemohler@www.speedtoys.com]
> Sent: Friday, March 22, 2002
6:47 PM
> To:
3sracers@speedtoys.com> Cc:
Team3S@stealth-3000gt.st>
Subject: Re: 3S-Racers: Boost II
>
> Jeesh..the car is
immaterial.
>
> The instructions just need to be read.
>
> Once you start doing your own work Rich, you'll understand just
how
> _easy_ it really all is.
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 28 Mar 2002 10:01:38
-0600
From: "Willis, Charles E." <
cewillis@TexasChildrensHospital.org>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: quick favor to ask when you start your car
Are you sure you
didn't blow the y-pipe loose from the throttle body or from
the two
intercooler returns?
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Riyan
Mynuddin [SMTP:riyan@hotpop.com]
> Sent: Wednesday, March 27, 2002 2:41
AM
> To: Team3S
> Subject: Team3S: quick favor to ask when you start
your car
>
>
> -----
> watch the tachometer for me,
and let me know if it shows the CRANKING
> SPEED
> as your car
starts. OR does it just rest at flat zero until the engine
> begins to
turn on its own. my tachometer is FLAT at zero AS THE CAR
>
CRANKS,
> and I feel that this is directly related to why it's not
starting (I
> suspect
> bad timing belt, crankshaft position sensor,
or harness)
> ---
>
>
> quoting FSM for 93 dodge
stealth rt tt, pg 14A-88:
>
> "Hint 3: If the tachometer reads 0
rpm when the engine that has failed to
> start is cranked, faulty
crankshaft position sensor or broken timing belt
> is
>
suspected"
>
> are they referring to ECU represented tach rpm read
through a scan tool,
> or
> simple in-dash tach? because my in-dash
tachometer DOES read 0 rpm at
> crank,
> and unfortunately I don't
have a scan tool yet to read the ECU rpm at this
> point.
>
>
the car just died after I had floored it and taken an exit off the
>
freeway.
> maybe I broke the belt? I've been working on this for weeks on
and off,
> and
> I'd feel like an idiot if it's that simple of a
problem. but it happens to
> the best of us. we'll see tomorrow morning
when I get some light around
> here.
>
> Riyan
> 93
dodge stealth rt tt
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 28 Mar 2002 10:09:55
-0600
From: "Willis, Charles E." <
cewillis@TexasChildrensHospital.org>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: Running Flat Out for 50 miles
Come on Paul - that's the
universal GAS law. We are hoping that Rich's
coolant remains in a
liquid state.
Chuck
(I didn't get a "D" in Physical Chemistry for
nothin')
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Paul Prentis
[SMTP:paul@ppeengineering.com]
> Sent: Wednesday, March 27, 2002 10:34
PM
> To:
Team3S@stealth-3000gt.st>
Subject: Re: Team3S: Running Flat Out for 50 miles
>
> How does the
NPG+ not increase in pressure at the temperature increases?
> According to
PV=nRT, if the temperature increases the pressure has to
> increase, if
the volume of the coolant system is constant and the amount
> of
>
coolant inside the coolant system is constant.
>
>
Paul
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 28 Mar 2002 10:16:50
-0600
From: "
merritt@cedar-rapids.net" <
merritt@cedar-rapids.net>
Subject:
Team3S: What are my brakes?
My confuser crashed, and I lost all my e-mail
files.
Does anybody know what the model numbers are for ordering brake
pads for Brad's Big Red Porsche TT brakes?
I gotta order a set of Panther
pads, and I never know what to say when they ask "which model 993
Porsche?"
Brad, you out there? I lost your address too.
Rich/slow old poop
Big Red brakes
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 28 Mar 2002 09:30:31
-0700
From: "Floyd, Jim" <
Jim_Floyd@maxtor.com>
Subject:
Team3S: RE: 3S-Racers: What are my brakes?
Tell them you want #901771 or
#993335194900 for a '96 TT 911 (model
993 or 996)
- -----Original
Message-----
From:
merritt@cedar-rapids.net
[mailto:merritt@cedar-rapids.net]
Sent: Thursday, March 28, 2002 9:17
AM
To:
3sracers@speedtoys.com;
Team3S@stealth-3000gt.stSubject:
3S-Racers: What are my brakes?
My confuser crashed, and I lost all my
e-mail files.
Does anybody know what the model numbers are for ordering
brake pads for
Brad's Big Red Porsche TT brakes?
I gotta order a set
of Panther pads, and I never know what to say when they
ask "which model 993
Porsche?"
Brad, you out there? I lost your address too.
Rich/slow old poop
Big Red brakes
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 28 Mar 2002 08:38:39
-0800 (PST)
From: Casey Rayman <
theturbodog@yahoo.com>
Subject:
Team3S: Re: Gretag transmission
> This makes the clutch
slip
> some every time you press it down and release it. I believe
that
> this slip causes alot of the syncro problems by not letting
the
> clutch engage quick enough.
How fast the clutch engages has
very little to do with synchro wear
unless the gear is not fully engaged, but
thats not really the
cltuches fault. However if the clutch is not
releasing quickly
enough or does not release completely this could cause
accelerated
synchro wear.
I think more likely the Mitsubishi trannies
are a significant
compromise. Torque holding vs. Space. Four
important facts making a
good transmission hard to build: The engine
compartments of the
Mitsubishi's are quite tight, the power must change
directions
several times, they make alot of torque, and they are heavy.
Lots of
torque requires big heavy gears, but you can't make them too
big
because of space restrictions. If you need to make a gear just
a
little bigger then the shift/synchro mechanism must give or the
whole
transmission must get bigger. One method to win this synchro
space
back is the dual-cone type synchros. Esentially two synchros half
as
wide but arranged concentrically.
It's relatively easy to design a
transmission for a 2500lb car making
a stump pulling 120 lb-ft of
torque. It's quite another to build one
to take 300 lb-ft in a 4000lb
car in approximately the same amount of
space.
One other note... I do
not know of any other Getrag(there may be some
I just don't know of any)
transaxle that takes heavy gear oil. Most
of the ones I have experience
with use either ATF or Synthetic Motor
oil(15w50 etc.). This says to me
there is a possibility that the
transmission is not designed quite large
enough and the fluid was
thickened to compensate. Or it could be a heat
issue which is also
closely related to the life of most components. I
wonder sometimes
if an external cooler+pump with lighter oil could do the
job.
To put it in other terms(obviously not an exact representation
but
you get the idea I hope)...Think of the synchro as a tire. If
you
were to make a tire sticky enough you could easily equip the 3000
with
a 205 width tire having performance equal, but it would wear out
in 3 or 4
trips around the block. However if you made the tire very
hard and long
lasting it would have to be a 275 width for performance
to remain the
same. What if you were absolutely limited by some
space requirement to
the 205 width tire and could not fit a 275
width? You would have to
give up performance, lighten the car, or
live with a short tire
lifespan. In terms of synchros this would be
slower shifts, lighter
gears, or short synchro life.
Casey
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 28 Mar 2002 08:40:56
-0800 (PST)
From: Casey Rayman <
theturbodog@yahoo.com>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: quick favor to ask when you start your car
The tach stays on
zero in my '92 until the key is released from
start. However the
datalogger shows rpm any time the engine is
turning, and actually shows the
output from the crank sensor as a
high/low signal
indication.
Casey
- --- Riyan Mynuddin <
riyan@hotpop.com> wrote:
>
>
-----
> watch the tachometer for me, and let me know if it shows
the
> CRANKING SPEED
> as your car starts. OR does it just rest at
flat zero until the
> engine
> begins to turn on its own. my
tachometer is FLAT at zero AS THE CAR
> CRANKS,
> and I feel that
this is directly related to why it's not starting
> (I suspect
> bad
timing belt, crankshaft position sensor, or harness)
> ---
>
>
> quoting FSM for 93 dodge stealth rt tt, pg 14A-88:
>
> "Hint 3: If the tachometer reads 0 rpm when the engine that has
>
failed to
> start is cranked, faulty crankshaft position sensor or
broken
> timing belt is
> suspected"
>
> are they
referring to ECU represented tach rpm read through a scan
> tool,
or
> simple in-dash tach? because my in-dash tachometer DOES read 0
rpm
> at crank,
> and unfortunately I don't have a scan tool yet to
read the ECU rpm
> at this
> point.
>
> the car just
died after I had floored it and taken an exit off the
> freeway.
>
maybe I broke the belt? I've been working on this for weeks on and
> off,
and
> I'd feel like an idiot if it's that simple of a problem. but
it
> happens to
> the best of us. we'll see tomorrow morning when I
get some light
> around
> here.
>
> Riyan
> 93
dodge stealth rt tt
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 28 Mar 2002 08:57:41
-0800
From: Michael Gerhard <
gerhard1@llnl.gov>
Subject: Team3S:
Running Full Out at the Silver State Classsic
So far I have devoted my
higher speed driving to the High Performance
Driving School (Thunderhill at
Willows, CA). The recent thread on driving
on closed hi-ways sounds really
cool. I'm thinking that the closest race to
the west coast is the Silver
State Classic in Nevada. It is a timed rally
type race and I'm hearing that
those who do the best at holding the perfect
average speed do using a GPS
unit.
I'm thinking ahead toward doing the two races in September 2003
during
"Speed Week". I've got 18 months to prepare. I think just doing the
races
will be a hoot. However, it would be nice to actually do well in them.
Thus, I'm looking for some 20-50 mile long lonely roads (with curves and
elevation changes) in central or northern California which I could treat as
a rally course to practice (operating within the speed limits). I'd like
roads free of stops if possible. Basically, I'd like to figure out how to
run this type of race using a stop watch, GPS, calculator, etc. I live in
the San Francisco Bay area so the closer the better. I can think of some 10
mile roads around here, but I think traffice might be a problem.
For
those who are interested in the Silver State Classic, the web site
is...
www.silverstateclassic.comAlso,
the driving school at Thunderhill is a great way to get track time
and
instruction for a great price (currently $195 for 5-6 20 minute
sessions on
the track, instruction, lunch, end-of-day snacks/drinks, and a
T-shirt). The
next classes are May 5, June 1, and June 22. Several of us
have signed up
for May 5 and I am planning on going to both days in June.
Hope to see some
more 3S cars up there. Thunderhill is 7 miles west of
Willows and about 120
miles north of San Francisco on Interstate 5.
-
--------------------------------------------------------------
Michael A.
Gerhard 1991 Mitsubishi 3000GT VR4 Pearl
White
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 28 Mar 2002 11:06:10
-0600
From: "Morice, Francis" <
francis.morice@retek.com>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: Running Full Out at the Silver State Classsic
How about the
Pacific Coast Highway ? Lots of twists and turns and goes for
quite
bit. I am referring to the part just south of Carmel. Maybe make
it
a weekend trip. Not too far from San Fran.....
Just a
thought.
Francis
'96 RT/TT
- -----Original
Message-----
From: Michael Gerhard [mailto:gerhard1@llnl.gov]
Sent:
Thursday, March 28, 2002 10:58 AM
To:
team3S@stealth-3000gt.stSubject:
Team3S: Running Full Out at the Silver State Classsic
So far I have
devoted my higher speed driving to the High Performance
Driving School
(Thunderhill at Willows, CA). The recent thread on driving
on closed hi-ways
sounds really cool. I'm thinking that the closest race to
the west coast is
the Silver State Classic in Nevada. It is a timed rally
type race and I'm
hearing that those who do the best at holding the perfect
average speed do
using a GPS unit.
I'm thinking ahead toward doing the two races in
September 2003 during
"Speed Week". I've got 18 months to prepare. I think
just doing the races
will be a hoot. However, it would be nice to actually do
well in them.
Thus, I'm looking for some 20-50 mile long lonely roads (with
curves and
elevation changes) in central or northern California which I could
treat as
a rally course to practice (operating within the speed limits). I'd
like
roads free of stops if possible. Basically, I'd like to figure out how
to
run this type of race using a stop watch, GPS, calculator, etc. I live
in
the San Francisco Bay area so the closer the better. I can think of some
10
mile roads around here, but I think traffice might be a
problem.
For those who are interested in the Silver State Classic, the
web site is...
www.silverstateclassic.comAlso,
the driving school at Thunderhill is a great way to get track time
and
instruction for a great price (currently $195 for 5-6 20 minute
sessions on
the track, instruction, lunch, end-of-day snacks/drinks, and a
T-shirt). The
next classes are May 5, June 1, and June 22. Several of us
have signed up for
May 5 and I am planning on going to both days in June.
Hope to see some more
3S cars up there. Thunderhill is 7 miles west of
Willows and about 120 miles
north of San Francisco on Interstate 5.
-
--------------------------------------------------------------
Michael A.
Gerhard 1991 Mitsubishi 3000GT VR4 Pearl
White
*** Info:
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***
------------------------------
End of Team3S: 3000GT &
Stealth V1
#795
***************************************