Team3S: 3000GT & Stealth Wednesday, March 27
2002 Volume 01 : Number
794
----------------------------------------------------------------------
Date:
Tue, 26 Mar 2002 09:58:25 -0600
From: "
merritt@cedar-rapids.net" <
merritt@cedar-rapids.net>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: buying a VR-4
>If >there are any other tips about
buying an after 94'
>vr-4 I'd love to hear them!
The 6-speed
transmissions break their 1-2 synchros at about 60,000 miles, and the
replacement cost is around $3,000 at the dealer (can't be fixed, just replaced).
It also requires a timing belt and water pump replacement at 60,000 miles
($800 at the dealer).
If the car is under 60,000 miles, get a warranty
that covers the tranny.
If the car is over 60,000 miles, try to get an
aftermarket warranty if you can. Otherwise, ask for proof that both problems
have been taken care of.
Otherwise, budget about $4,000 for repairs at 60K
miles.
My daughter has an absolutely cherry red 91 Stealth for sale if
you are interested -- 44,000 miles with a 70,000 mile warranty and all the
typical mods (boost controller, BOV, lowered, chromies, Borla) -- for $13,000.
Yes, it's above book, but well worth it.
Plan to race the car? Buy
one that's already set up with all the goodies.
I have such a car -- a
94 VR4, set up for road racing, not drags -- if you are interested.
Rich/94 VR4
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 26 Mar 2002 11:22:37
-0600
From: "
merritt@cedar-rapids.net" <
merritt@cedar-rapids.net>
Subject:
Team3S: Triple digits
Anybody run this one?
www.bigbendopenroadrace.comIt
looks like a real hoot. If you did, tell us about it.
If not, let's start
planning to send a contingent next year.
I'll bet Roger and the boys in Yurp
can help us set up our cars to run 59 miles flat out.
Rich/slow old
poop
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 26 Mar 2002 12:41:02
-0500
From: "Furman, Russell" <
RFurman2@MassMutual.com>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: Triple digits
Seems like it could be fun..... anybody
wanna be a late entry and report
back to the list? I will definitely be
trying to do this next year
Rich were do you find these things
?!?!?
> -----Original Message-----
> From:
merritt@cedar-rapids.net
[SMTP:merritt@cedar-rapids.net]
> Sent: Tuesday, March 26, 2002 12:23
PM
> To:
3sracers@speedtoys.com;
Team3S@stealth-3000gt.st>
Subject: Team3S: Triple digits
>
> Anybody run this one?
>
>
www.bigbendopenroadrace.com>
> It looks like a real hoot. If you did, tell us about it.
>
> If not, let's start planning to send a contingent next year.
>
I'll bet Roger and the boys in Yurp can help us set up our cars to run
59
> miles flat out.
>
> Rich/slow old poop
***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 26 Mar 2002 10:44:45
-0700
From: "Floyd, Jim" <
Jim_Floyd@maxtor.com>
Subject: RE:
Team3S: Triple digits
Same place as this one.
www.silverstateclassic.com-
-----Original Message-----
From: Furman, Russell
[mailto:RFurman2@MassMutual.com]
Sent: Tuesday, March 26, 2002 10:41
AM
To:
'merritt@cedar-rapids.net';
Team3S@stealth-3000gt.stSubject:
RE: Team3S: Triple digits
Seems like it could be fun..... anybody
wanna be a late entry and report
back to the list? I will definitely be
trying to do this next year
Rich were do you find these things
?!?!?
> -----Original Message-----
> From:
merritt@cedar-rapids.net
[SMTP:merritt@cedar-rapids.net]
> Sent: Tuesday, March 26, 2002 12:23
PM
> To:
3sracers@speedtoys.com;
Team3S@stealth-3000gt.st>
Subject: Team3S: Triple digits
>
> Anybody run this one?
>
>
www.bigbendopenroadrace.com>
> It looks like a real hoot. If you did, tell us about it.
>
> If not, let's start planning to send a contingent next year.
>
I'll bet Roger and the boys in Yurp can help us set up our cars to run
59
> miles flat out.
>
> Rich/slow old poop
***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 26 Mar 2002 11:48:18
-0600
From: "
merritt@cedar-rapids.net" <
merritt@cedar-rapids.net>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: Triple digits
>
>Rich were do you find these things
?!?!?
Try this one:
www.ecta-lsr.comIt's a land speed
record deal somewhere on the East Coast. I found this link, but haven't tracked
it any farther yet. If anybody figures it out, let me
know.
Rich
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 26 Mar 2002 14:37:58
-0500
From:
pvg1@daimlerchrysler.comSubject:
RE: Team3S: Another Apexi AVC-R question
>Others will probably tell
you this too: run the NGK plugs. For boosting
>@ 1 bar you probably
want a gap of 0.032". If more boost you can go
>even
lower.
If the Iridiums blow up I will then get the NGK's or copper
plugs.
>However, you cannot boost safely above 1 bar if you do not
have bigger
>injectors and fuel pump. Tell us your mods
please.
Here you go:
My mods that are already installed:
Apexi
AVC-R
Apexi S-AFC
Apexi ITC
SPI Boost Gauge
Intellitronix Air/Fuel
Gauge
Street Dyno
Battery in the trunk
Cool front Super Bumper (busted
a little)
Mods soon to be installed:
Denso Iridium Spark
Plugs
Magnecor Spark Plug Wires
Supra Fuel Pump
Denso 550 cc
Injectors
TEC 15G Turbos
Westach Dual EGT Gauge
PPE FMIC Pipe Kit
(after I make the FMIC)
MSD Knock Alert (maybe)
Air horns (very
loud)
Future mods:
Air filter
Standalone ECU or datalogging with
some reliable knock detection
Homemade precat eliminators or just gutted
precats
Downpipe and exhaust
RPS Clutch and Fidanza aluminum
flywheel
Water injection
A bigger MAS sensor
Sway bars and
springs
Rounder rims and W-rated tires that probably won't blow up at 200
MPH
More gadgets and other cool stuff!
Philip
'95 Red R/T
TT
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 26 Mar 2002 13:55:50
-0600
From: "Black, Dave (ICT)" <
dblai@allstate.com>
Subject: AVCR
Learn Mode clarification - was RE: Team3S: Another Apexi AVC -R
question
Can someone please clarify a point about Learn Mode on the
AVCR? I have
heard that you do not want to leave the AVCR in Learn Mode
because it
constantly adjusts regardless of how hard you drive on the
throttle. What
is stated below suggests that the AVCR adjusts settings
for Learn Mode ONLY
when throttle is above 85%. Can someone please
point to a reference with
printed fact of which is correct? Where did
the 85% figure come from?
Thanks.
Dave 95VR4
http://www.daveblack.net-
-----Original Message-----
From: Mihai Raicu
[mailto:mraicu@wayne.edu]
Sent: Tuesday, March 26, 2002 8:52 AM
To:
'Philip V. Glazatov';
team3s@team3s.comSubject: RE: Team3S:
Another Apexi AVC-R question
Philip,
I'm glad things are starting
to work.
used 38% for the "Duty". The AVCR adjusted the
"Duty"
> to 68% at high RPM and did not do anything yet at low RPM. Then I
was
> trying to change both the "Start Duty" and the "Duty". They work
in
tandem
> - if one is higher the other has to be lower. I made only
about 20 WOT
> runs
> with different initial settings and was able
to get this thing to
start
> learning several times even with the
"Start Duty" at 25% and the
"Duty" at
> 28%. Weird. Need to go play
again! ;-)
The Start Duty shifts up/down the normal Duty curve by X% for
the
appropriate gear. I thought learning mode was disabled for each
gear
where you had a start duty setting. There is no reason to have
start
duty settings in every gear. Tune your car to hit the target
boost in a
gear (3rd is best) and then if the other gears are not hitting it
adjust
accordingly. Gear 1 and 2 will underboost, therefore you will
bump up
the start duty here, while gear 4 and five you may need to lower
the
start duty by 1-3% due to overboosting.
>
> Several
people that I talked to leave the AVCR in the learning mode in
one
> or
two gears to let it constantly adjust itself for weather and
>
temperature
> changes. I have read that it only learns if the throttle is
>85%, so I
> guess if the "Start Duties" are set right it should not
overboost too
bad
> even if you do not drive it hard very often.
Now, since you have 0% as a Start Duty in 3rd, you can leave
the
learning mode on here. In my opinion you need this because
the
difference in temperature between morning and afternoon can be as
much
as 50 deg F during the summer. This affects your boost
settings
somewhat. If you have your car tuned for morning temps, it
will
underboost in the afternoon (warmer). If you have your car tuned
for
afternoon, it will overboost in the morning. If your car always
hits
target boost, there is no need to leave it in learning
mode.
Those "Start Duties" are the
> trickiest ones in this boost
controller. I have not figured them out
just
> yet.
Tune your
car in one gear without start duties, then go back and adjust
up/down each
other gear. It should probably follow the following trend:
Gear 1 2
3 4 5
Start Duty +10% +5% 0 -1% -2%
Gear 4 and 5 may be able to stay
at 0%.
> I am having spark blowout therefore I could not boost higher.
I will
be
> replacing the spark plugs this week to fix that. I have
those
Iridiums,
> need to be careful with those tiny central
electrodes. BTW, what is
the
> recommended gap for running 1 - 1.2 bar
(14.5 - 17.4 psi)? Is it
0.034" or
> 0.029"?
>
Others
will probably tell you this too: run the NKG plugs. For boosting
@ 1
bar you probably want a gap of 0.032". If more boost you can go
even
lower. You can also consider getting the NKG's one range colder.
If you
search the archives, someone posted the part numbers in the past.
Consult
others on the list before you do this.
However, you cannot boost
safely above 1 bar if you do not have bigger
injectors and fuel pump.
Tell us your mods please.
Boost safely.
- -MIHAI-
95 Red
VR4
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 26 Mar 2002 13:53:32
-0600
From: "
merritt@cedar-rapids.net" <
merritt@cedar-rapids.net>
Subject:
Team3S: Here's another one!
We have time to get into this one, gang!
I
think I will...anybody want to join me?
http://www.arnold-ne.com/raceframe.htmlRich/slow
old poop/94 VR4
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 26 Mar 2002 15:12:01
EST
From:
Merlin916@aol.comSubject: Re: AVCR Learn
Mode clarification - was RE: Team3S: Another Apexi AVC -R ques...
85% or
sometimes even 80% is the definition of wide open throttle. It
triggers your fuel injection to go to full rich (100% injector duty
cycle).
This is where the AVCR wants to learn because it will allow
the most air to
flow and the greatest combustion to
occur.
Joe
93 RT/TT
02 WRX
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 26 Mar 2002 15:37:05
-0500
From:
pvg1@daimlerchrysler.comSubject:
Re: AVCR Learn Mode clarification - was RE: Team3S: Another Apexi AVC -R
question
>Can someone please clarify a point about Learn Mode on the
AVCR? I have
>heard that you do not want to leave the AVCR in Learn
Mode because it
>constantly adjusts regardless of how hard you drive on
the throttle. What
>is stated below suggests that the AVCR adjusts
settings for Learn Mode
ONLY
>when throttle is above 85%. Can
someone please point to a reference with
>printed fact of which is
correct? Where did the 85% figure come from?
The 85% figure is
from the AVC-R manual, page 23. It states:
"If the throttle position is over
85% and the boost pressure is stable, the
unit will begin self learning the
solenoid valve duty cycle. ...
... The unit will NOT self learn if the boost
pressure level is too low or
the boost pressure is overshooting."
The
bigger question is what happens if I open the throttle by 86% and it
starts
learning. Will it then learn to produce partial boost (0.86 bar) or
the full
boost (1 bar). Will it then overshoot if I open it to 100% after
it
learns???
Page 30 also says:
"If the Start Duty is set to 0%, the self
learning will be active."
I was able to make the AVCR learn even with the
Start Duty set at 25%, so I
do not understand what they wanted to say here.
That was in 2nd gear and
there was no overshooting because the Duty was set
low.
Philip
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 26 Mar 2002 14:51:58
-0600
From: "Morice, Francis" <
francis.morice@retek.com>
Subject:
RE: AVCR Learn Mode clarification - was RE: Team3S: Another Apexi AVC -R
question
I just started playing around with mine again yesterday and I
had the duty
set at 67% and all gear initial duty at 0% except 1st (+50%) and
I was
getting right up to 1.2. Only overboosted once or twice. My
initial runs
made it up to 1.17-1.19. So far it hasn't learned yet, but
hopefully a few
more runs with take care of that. Which brings up my
next question, how
many runs need to be run in order for it to have "learned"
the gear ?
Francis
'96 RT/TT
- -- SAVC-R
- -- Spearco WI
-
-- Magnacore wires
- -- Autometer Boost Gauge
- -- RPS TCC Clutch
- --
HKS MegaFlow intake
- -- Freeflow precats
- -- Goodridge Steel Braided
Brake Lines
- -- Porterfield Cryo/Crossdrilled Rotors w/R4S pads
-
-- 1G DSM BOV
- -- Ground Control springs(500/300 F/R)
- -- Supra Fuel
Pump
- -- Stillen DP
- -- Borla Exhaust
In case anyone was
wondering why I am boosting up to 1.2.........
>>The 85% figure is
from the AVC-R manual, page 23. It states:
>>"If the throttle position
is over 85% and the boost pressure is stable,
the
>>unit will begin
self learning the solenoid valve duty cycle. ...
>>... The unit will
NOT self learn if the boost pressure level is too low or
>>the boost
pressure is overshooting."
>>The bigger question is what happens if
I open the throttle by 86% and it
>>starts learning. Will it then learn
to produce partial boost (0.86 bar) or
>>the full boost (1 bar). Will
it then overshoot if I open it to 100% after
>>it
learns???
>>Page 30 also says:
>>"If the Start Duty is set
to 0%, the self learning will be active."
>>I was able to make the
AVCR learn even with the Start Duty set at 25%, so
I
>>do not
understand what they wanted to say here. That was in 2nd gear
and
>>there was no overshooting because the Duty was set
low.
>>Philip
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 26 Mar 2002 16:10:25
-0500
From:
pvg1@daimlerchrysler.comSubject:
RE: AVCR Learn Mode clarification - was RE: Team3S: Another Apexi AVC -R
question
>So far it hasn't learned yet, but hopefully a
few
>more runs with take care of that. Which brings up my next
question, how
>many runs need to be run in order for it to have "learned"
the gear ?
You will know that it has learned if the duty cycle numbers
stop adjusting
themselves from run to run.
I have not tried it yet,
but what I ideally want to see is the solenoid
duty cycle that immediately
goes up to 100% when I step on gas and then,
after the boost raises to
target, sharply down to whatever is needed to
maintain the target boost. This
could all be monitored in the 2-channel Y-
time display mode. It could also
be recorded for 30 seconds and then
played
back.
Philip
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 26 Mar 2002 16:56:12
-0700
From: "Paul Prentis" <
paul@ppeengineering.com>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Here's another one!
If you are seriously going to do it, then
I might join you. What division
would you enter in? Grand
Touring?
Paul
- ----- Original Message -----
From: <
merritt@cedar-rapids.net>
To:
<
3sracers@speedtoys.com>;
<
Team3S@stealth-3000gt.st>
Cc:
<
cathi_grier@cmfz.com>; <
gcathi@hotmail.com>
Sent: Tuesday,
March 26, 2002 12:53 PM
Subject: Team3S: Here's another one!
> We
have time to get into this one, gang!
> I think I will...anybody want to
join me?
>
>
http://www.arnold-ne.com/raceframe.html>
>
Rich/slow old poop/94 VR4
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 26 Mar 2002 19:15:08
-0500
From: "Joshua G. Prince" <
joshua@unconundrum.com>
Subject:
Team3S: lawsuit against Mitsubishi regarding Gretag transmission
Hi
everyone, I am looking for some help. My mother's spyder's 2nd
synchro
went in her 95 spyder. It had been replaced less then 10,000
miles ago
for the same problem. It was documented that at 3,000 miles,
I felt
there was a problem. The dealership said no, it is just how
the
transmission is. I have been away and when I came back the 2nd
synchro
was clearly grinding. We took the car in and the dealership
said
Mitsubishi refused to cover it. We brought them the paperwork
showing
it was in only after 3000 miles and that I noted a problem then with
the
transmission, Mitsubishi still wants to do nothing. Well my
father
being a lawyer is fed up and is going to be filing suit
against
Mitsubishi for this issue and also for the issue of not allowing
parts
to be sold to fix the transmission since that is a form of a
monopoly.
Anyway, he asked that I get as much information from everyone
as
possible as to who all has had their transmissions in the
vr-4's
replaced and how many times. I would like to stick with the 2nd
gen
transmission replacements for the time being. Also, if you would
not
mind providing us with the VIN, it would be EXTREMELY helpful in
the
suit. If there are other people in the Pa area who are having
issues
with their transmission and would like to also be listed as
defendants
or such in the case, let me know. I don't believe he is
going to try
this federally but I may be wrong. Maybe we will get lucky
and get
Mitsubishi to change their tune with a lawsuit. It is a shame
they want
to go to this since it is going to cost them a hell of a lot more
then a
transmission for lawyers fees. Thank you all for your time
and
assistance
Joshua Prince
joshua@unconundrum.com***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 26 Mar 2002 17:09:52
-0700
From: "Mike & Cathy" <
micajoco@theofficenet.com>
Subject:
Team3S: trans info
Hey---Everyone heres the opportunity to support a
person that is willing to
challenge our transmition problems. Everyone needs
to send information
available. I have a 1st gen. but would be quick to
respond. Mitsubishi needs
to here from the numbers----- get with it or quit
complaining.
Mike S 92 rt tt
*** Info:
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***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 26 Mar 2002 19:16:44
-0600
From: "
merritt@cedar-rapids.net" <
merritt@cedar-rapids.net>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: lawsuit against Mitsubishi regarding Gretag transmission
I
got my 94 VR4 changed under an aftermarket warranty (General Motors) at 65,000
miles.
The dealer put in a brand new Mitsubishi rebuilt tranny with a factory
12,000 mile, one-year warranty.
It immediately started leaking.
Mitsu paid
for a $600 repair, which consisted of disassembling half the car and installing
some stupid seal, which didn't stop the leak.
It is still leaking like a
sieve, and Satan has refused to do any more.
The aftermarket warranty
doesn't cover it, because it's covered by the Mitsu warranty.
I don't
know if this helps. If it does, I'll cooperate in any way I can.
If you
can check the archives somewhere, we went through all this two years ago, and
somebody collected the names and experiences of a dozen or so other people who
had Getrag warranty problems.
Rich/94 VR4
>Well my
father
>being a lawyer is fed up and is going to be filing suit
against
>Mitsubishi for this issue and also for the issue of not allowing
parts
>to be sold to fix the transmission since that is a form of a
monopoly.
>Anyway, he asked that I get as much information from everyone
as
>possible as to who all has had their transmissions in the
vr-4's
>replaced and how many times.
*** Info:
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***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 26 Mar 2002 17:36:57
-0800
From: Yoss <
yoss@aracnet.com>
Subject: Re: Team3S:
lawsuit against Mitsubishi regarding Gretag transmission
On Tue, Mar 26,
2002,
merritt@cedar-rapids.net
<
merritt@cedar-rapids.net>
wrote:
> I got my 94 VR4 changed under an aftermarket warranty (General
Motors) at 65,000 miles.
> The dealer put in a brand new Mitsubishi
rebuilt tranny with a factory 12,000 mile, one-year
warranty.
^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^
There's the problem right
there. I'm currently on tranny# 4, all of
them being rebuilt
ones. Mitsu is very good at taking something that is
screwed up and
turning it into something that is fucked up.
- --
*******************************************************************************
Worry
is a human emotion.
-- Spock, "Journey to Babel," stardate
3842.4.
*******************************************************************************
***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 27 Mar 2002 05:15:52
+0000
From:
apedenko@attbi.comSubject: Team3S:
Unrestricted exhaust
This is something that's been bugging me - we go to
great lengths to get a free-flowing exhaust. Gut the
pre-cats, eliminate
the main cat, put on a free-er
flowing catback, etc. But the one issue that
I haven't
seen tackled is the actual shape of the catback. The
downpipe
leads the exhaust back to the catback, at
which point it splits into two
sections, making two 90
degree turns as a result. What I mean is (go ascii
art!!!)
front of car
^
|
|
X-X----X
|
|
| |
rear of
car
The Xs are the bends i'm talking about. How much of a
restriction
do they pose, and how much would a
straighter pipe make things better? I
understand that a
straight catback would probably require modifications
to the gas tank, but...
just tryin' to think outside the
box
Alex
'95 Vr4 with a pitch-fork exhaust.
***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 26 Mar 2002 21:23:00
-0800 (PST)
From: Geoff Mohler <
gemohler@www.speedtoys.com>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Unrestricted exhaust
How much..a lot.
But the
aftermarket world solves those problems.
On Wed, 27 Mar 2002
apedenko@attbi.com wrote:
> This
is something that's been bugging me - we go to
> great lengths to get a
free-flowing exhaust. Gut the
> pre-cats, eliminate the main cat, put on
a free-er
> flowing catback, etc. But the one issue that I haven't
> seen tackled is the actual shape of the catback. The
> downpipe
leads the exhaust back to the catback, at
> which point it splits into
two sections, making two 90
> degree turns as a result. What I mean is
(go ascii
> art!!!)
>
>
> front of
car
> ^
>
|
> |
> X-X----X
>
| |
>
| |
>
> rear of car
>
>
The Xs are the bends i'm talking about. How much of a
> restriction do
they pose, and how much would a
> straighter pipe make things better? I
understand that a
> straight catback would probably require modifications
> to the gas tank, but...
>
> just tryin' to think outside
the box
>
> Alex
>
> '95 Vr4 with a pitch-fork
exhaust.
- ---
Geoff Mohler
*** Info:
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***
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 27 Mar 2002 05:29:09
+0000
From:
apedenko@attbi.comSubject: Re: Team3S:
Unrestricted exhaust
What do you mean? Is there a straight catback made
by
someone? Do you have a link?
Alex.
> How much..a
lot.
>
> But the aftermarket world solves those problems.
>
> On Wed, 27 Mar 2002
apedenko@attbi.com wrote:
>
>
> This is something that's been bugging me - we go to
> > great
lengths to get a free-flowing exhaust. Gut the
> > pre-cats, eliminate
the main cat, put on a free-er
> > flowing catback, etc. But the one
issue that I haven't
> > seen tackled is the actual shape of the
catback. The
> > downpipe leads the exhaust back to the catback, at
> > which point it splits into two sections, making two 90
>
> degree turns as a result. What I mean is (go ascii
> >
art!!!)
> >
> >
> > front of car
>
> ^
> > |
>
> |
> > X-X----X
> >
| |
> >
| |
> >
> > rear of car
>
>
> > The Xs are the bends i'm talking about. How much of a
> > restriction do they pose, and how much would a
> >
straighter pipe make things better? I understand that a
> > straight
catback would probably require modifications
> > to the gas tank,
but...
> >
> > just tryin' to think outside the box
>
>
> > Alex
> >
> > '95 Vr4 with a pitch-fork
exhaust.
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 26 Mar 2002 23:57:17
-0600
From: "
merritt@cedar-rapids.net" <
merritt@cedar-rapids.net>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Unrestricted exhaust
A> But the one issue that I haven't
>seen tackled is the actual shape of the catback. The
>downpipe
leads the exhaust back to the catback, at
>which point it splits into two
sections, making two 90
>degree turns as a result.
Yeah, that
bugged me too. So I had Denny's Muffler shop here in Cedar Rapids make me up a
catback straight through exhaust for less than $200. They cut the stock pipe
just aft of the rear flex bushing, and ran it to a single straight-tru Xlerator
muffler on the driver's side. The pipe makes two gentle 45 deg bends getting
there. I don't have a fancy dual Borla exhaust, but it works great. LOUD, too,
without cats.
I still think the Stillen downpipe and my custom catback
are the best performance mods I made to the car. I highly recommend both.
Rich/94 VR4
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 26 Mar 2002 22:14:26
-0800
From: "Riyan Mynuddin" <
riyan@hotpop.com>
Subject: Team3S:
starting problem
Hey guys,
My car is still giving me hell. I'm the
one with the rusted capacitor. I
have changed the capacitor, ignition coil,
spark plugs, and wires. I also
ran the diagnostic on the power transistor.
Nothing worked. Still no spark.
I'm fed up since I took a good amount of my
car apart and got nowhere. I'm
going to take the thing to my mechanic
tomorrow morning, who suspects that
it could be the crankshaft position
sensor. I'm in no mood to go that far in
the engine again. If his diagnostic
really does lead to the sensor, then
maybe I'll get him to change the timing
belt while he's in there.
Nevertheless, I hope I'm at least a good piece of
information to you guys
when this is all done.
Riyan
***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 27 Mar 2002 00:04:45
-0800
From: "Riyan Mynuddin" <
riyan@hotpop.com>
Subject: RE: Team3S:
starting problem
:)
And about an hour and a half later... I'm
changing my tone completely.
Forget taking my baby to the mechanic. I just
learned that a scan tool is
not necessary to read trouble codes (all you need
is a voltmeter) and that
there's really only two things left that could be
causing my car not to
spark.
I do have some questions before I run out
with the voltmeter tomorrow
morning. Will the ECU report a code 22 "no
crankshaft position sensor
signal" even if the car does not start? It's kind
of a catch 22, because
from my research I've heard that the ECU will not
allow voltage to the
ignition system if it is not receiving feedback from the
crankshaft position
sensor. That could explain the no spark condition.
However, I am doubtful as
to whether there is sufficient voltage in the ECU
to log codes WHILE the
engine is being cranked. Ever since the car died, I
have disconnected the
battery, thus resetting the computer. Now the starter
motor turns and I am
not sure if turning the motor alone will allow the ECU
to capture the code.
Any idea what the requirements are for the ECU to begin
logging? Also,
anyone know how the crankshaft position sensor signal is read?
It would be
great if there's somewhere besides the actual harness connection
in the
timing belt area where it can be measured. If I do have to go down
there,
hopefully it's a simple 0-12V signal with an easily identifiable hot
wire
and ground. If anyone knows details on this stuff, I'd be glad to have
an
idea before pulling out the floor jack and ripping off the timing
belt
covers.
I'd like to thank those who helped me out with
information regarding the
capacitor, and I'd greatly appreciate help with
this stage as well.
For the people that didn't see the previous
thread: see "ignition coil
capacitor, spec, availability"
or read
on:
My car died after I got off the freeway. It slowly lost power and
started a
few times. Then it refused to start, and investigation leads to a
no spark
condition. After replacing the capacitor, ignition coil, plugs, and
wires,
and running the diagnostic on the power transistor, I put the car
back
together and there's still no spark. All that is left are wire
harnesses,
the crankshaft position sensor, and (hope not) an actual fault in
the ECU.
So before I get impatient here and give some guy at a shop
whatever's in my
wallet, I'm going to suck it up and check the last few
possibilities. Wish
me luck.
Riyan
- -----Original
Message-----
From:
owner-team3s@team3s.com
[mailto:owner-team3s@team3s.com]On Behalf
Of Riyan Mynuddin
Sent: Tuesday,
March 26, 2002 10:14 PM
To: Team3S
Subject: Team3S: starting
problem
Hey guys,
My car is still giving me hell. I'm the one with
the rusted capacitor. I
have changed the capacitor, ignition coil, spark
plugs, and wires. I also
ran the diagnostic on the power transistor. Nothing
worked. Still no spark.
I'm fed up since I took a good amount of my car apart
and got nowhere. I'm
going to take the thing to my mechanic tomorrow morning,
who suspects that
it could be the crankshaft position sensor. I'm in no mood
to go that far in
the engine again. If his diagnostic really does lead to the
sensor, then
maybe I'll get him to change the timing belt while he's in
there.
Nevertheless, I hope I'm at least a good piece of information to you
guys
when this is all done.
Riyan
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 27 Mar 2002 00:41:52
-0800
From: "BlackLight" <
BlackLight@Planetice.net>
Subject:
Team3S: Knocklink
Has anyone tried one of these with the Datalogger yet?
Results if any?
What about the question of compensation for RPM and
sensitivity? I have
a 94 and I will be needing a knock monitor and I am
trying to avoid
going full out to the AEM PEMS to do it (if it ever is
released) as I am
now officially a poor broke bastard again after paying for
all of the
new mods. Any other new options?
Matt Nelson
1994 RT
TT
Computer Sales Consultant
Gateway Computers, Salem OR
Work Phone
503-587-7113
BlackLight@Planetice.Netwww.BlackLight.5u.com***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 27 Mar 2002 00:40:30
-0800
From: "Riyan Mynuddin" <
riyan@hotpop.com>
Subject: Team3S:
quick favor to ask when you start your car
- -----
watch the
tachometer for me, and let me know if it shows the CRANKING SPEED
as your car
starts. OR does it just rest at flat zero until the engine
begins to turn on
its own. my tachometer is FLAT at zero AS THE CAR CRANKS,
and I feel that
this is directly related to why it's not starting (I suspect
bad timing belt,
crankshaft position sensor, or harness)
- ---
quoting FSM for 93 dodge
stealth rt tt, pg 14A-88:
"Hint 3: If the tachometer reads 0 rpm when the
engine that has failed to
start is cranked, faulty crankshaft position sensor
or broken timing belt is
suspected"
are they referring to ECU
represented tach rpm read through a scan tool, or
simple in-dash tach?
because my in-dash tachometer DOES read 0 rpm at crank,
and unfortunately I
don't have a scan tool yet to read the ECU rpm at this
point.
the car
just died after I had floored it and taken an exit off the freeway.
maybe I
broke the belt? I've been working on this for weeks on and off, and
I'd feel
like an idiot if it's that simple of a problem. but it happens to
the best of
us. we'll see tomorrow morning when I get some light
around
here.
Riyan
93 dodge stealth rt tt
***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 27 Mar 2002 11:29:46
+0100
From: Roger Gerl <
roger.gerl@bluewin.ch>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: lawsuit against Mitsubishi regarding Gretag
transmission
Maybe not much of use for you guys but here some info from
Europe.
Basically we have much, much less tranny problems than you guys in
the US.
Even on other places in the world nowhere the problems are that
known like
in the US. I don't know why but this is a fact.
My tranny
has been replaced twice but Mitsubishi was not the problem at
all. It was
and it still is always the knowledge problem of the people who
are working
on the tranny or the parts around it. My first problem was the
clutch that
then got replaced by Mitsubishi. I paid labour because I
damaged it.
Although Mitsu was kind enough to pay the parts as they thought
that I
shoudl be bale to damage it that quick. After a few thousand miles
the
clutch went off again. The dealer found broken springs and finally
replaced
the tranny for free as there was a problem arising due to the
broken parts.
I was told the mechanic did something wrong and therefore
everything was
covered. Later the output shaft was grinded down and Mitsu
again changed the
tranny due to the metal particles spread around. Again no
cost for me as
Mitsu said this is not normal.
There are five cars in Switzerland I know
that they do have problems with
synchros. 4 of them are imported Stealths
from the States. The european one
was repaired and had a leak afterwards.
Blaming Mitsu ? No way as the
mechanic did it wrong. We brought it to the
"right" dealer (the Mitsu
headquarter) and it was done again ... no problem
since then.
I don't know why the diffs are that much between US and
Europe besides that
we all are using the Castrol Synth tranny oil i nall
cars.
Roger
93'3000GT TT
www.rtec.ch*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 27 Mar 2002 09:51:18
-0500
From: "Furman, Russell" <
RFurman2@MassMutual.com>
Subject:
Team3S: FW: Where are these events held?
Here's what I got back as a
reply for my question.
> -----Original Message-----
> From:
landspeedracer [SMTP:landspeedracer@msn.com]
> Sent: Tuesday, March 26,
2002 6:05 PM
> To: Furman, Russell
> Subject: Re: Where are these
events held?
>
> East Coast Timing Association
> 11241 Barnes
Bridge Rd.
> Laurinburg, NC 28352
> 910-266-9868
>
www.ecta-lsr.com>
> Speed Trial
Information
>
> Schedule of events for 2002 at Laurinburg-Maxton,
NC
>
> March 23 & 24, April 27 & 28, May 25 & 26, June
29 & 30, Sept 28 & 29, Oct
> 26 & 27.
>
> We are
using SCTA/BNI Bonneville rules with only minor changes for some
> safety
concerns. Classes are the same, car or bike, except for the
>
addition
> of a Street Legal and a Circle Track class. New 2002 ECTA rule
books will
> be
> sent out hopefully in February. Any questions
please call John at
> 910-266-9868, Lionel at 404-433-9306.
> e-mail
address
info@ecta-lsr.com.
>
> ECTA 2002 MEMBERSHIP - $50.
> Vehicle PRE-Entry Fees - $100. per
event.
> Additional pit passes - $5. each.
> Extra rule books - $10.
each
>
>
> 2002 Membership Form
>
>
NAME:_______________________________
>
>
ADDRESS:___________________________
>
>
CITY:________________________________
>
> STATE:__________
ZIP:________________
>
> HOME PHONE:_________________ WORK
HOME:_________________
>
> FAX NUMBER:________________ E-MAIL
ADDRESS: _______________
>
>
> Please check the following
category which you feel is the most
> comfortable:
> __ 1) Retain
all the above information for ECTA use only.
> __ 2) Allow my mailing
information (excluding phone numbers) to be
> distributed to
>
vendors and other race related organizations.
>
> ----- Original
Message -----
> From: "Furman, Russell" <
RFurman2@MassMutual.com>
>
To: <
info@ecta-lsr.com>
>
Sent: Tuesday, March 26, 2002 12:57 PM
> Subject: Where are these events
held?
>
>
> > TO whom it may concern,
>
>
> > where on the East Coast are these event held, how much is it
to
> participate
> > at any given event and where can I locate a
rules/guidelines book?
> >
> >
> >
> > Thank
You for your assistance
> > Russell L Furman
> > 1993 3000GT
VR-4
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 27 Mar 2002 07:30:30
-0800
From: "Chris Winkley" <
cwinkley@plaza.ds.adp.com>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: lawsuit against Mitsubishi regarding Gretag
transmission
Folks...
An Admin request...PLEASE send your
information to Joshua privately at:
joshua@unconundrum.com We don't
need dozens of "here's my problem, here's my VIN" posted to the list. We all
know our Getrag's have been a problem, it makes sense to help Joshua out, but we
don't need the postings on the list. Thanks in advance!!!
Looking
forward...Chris (Team3S Admin)
- -----Original Message-----
From:
Joshua G. Prince [mailto:joshua@unconundrum.com]
Sent: Tuesday, March 26,
2002 4:15 PM
To:
Team3S@stealth-3000gt.stSubject:
Team3S: lawsuit against Mitsubishi regarding Gretag
transmission
Hi
everyone, I am looking for some help. My mother's spyder's 2nd
synchro
went in her 95 spyder. It had been replaced less then 10,000
miles ago
for the same problem. It was documented that at 3,000 miles,
I felt
there was a problem. The dealership said no, it is just how
the
transmission is. I have been away and when I came back the 2nd
synchro
was clearly grinding. We took the car in and the dealership
said
Mitsubishi refused to cover it. We brought them the paperwork
showing
it was in only after 3000 miles and that I noted a problem then with
the
transmission, Mitsubishi still wants to do nothing. Well my
father
being a lawyer is fed up and is going to be filing suit
against
Mitsubishi for this issue and also for the issue of not allowing
parts
to be sold to fix the transmission since that is a form of a
monopoly.
Anyway, he asked that I get as much information from everyone
as
possible as to who all has had their transmissions in the
vr-4's
replaced and how many times. I would like to stick with the 2nd
gen
transmission replacements for the time being. Also, if you would
not
mind providing us with the VIN, it would be EXTREMELY helpful in
the
suit. If there are other people in the Pa area who are having
issues
with their transmission and would like to also be listed as
defendants
or such in the case, let me know. I don't believe he is
going to try
this federally but I may be wrong. Maybe we will get lucky
and get
Mitsubishi to change their tune with a lawsuit. It is a shame
they want
to go to this since it is going to cost them a hell of a lot more
then a
transmission for lawyers fees. Thank you all for your time
and
assistance
Joshua Prince
joshua@unconundrum.com***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 27 Mar 2002 07:43:27
-0800
From: "fastmax" <
fastmax@cox.net>
Subject: Re: Team3S:
starting problem
Make sure that your battery is fully charged, low
battery voltage can cause
the ECU to malfunction.
Did you verify
you're getting fuel ---- pull a spark plug after turning it over a
few times
and see if they're wet from
fuel.
Jim
Berry
=================================================
- ----- Original
Message -----
From: "Riyan Mynuddin" <
riyan@hotpop.com>
> :)
>
> And about an hour and a half later... I'm changing my tone
completely.
> Forget taking my baby to the mechanic. I just learned that a
scan tool is
> not necessary to read trouble codes (all you need is a
voltmeter) and that
> there's really only two things left that could be
causing my car not to
> spark.
>
> I do have some questions
before I run out with the voltmeter tomorrow
> morning. Will the ECU
report a code 22 "no crankshaft position sensor
> signal" even if the car
does not start? It's kind of a catch 22, because
> from my research I've
heard that the ECU will not allow voltage to the
> ignition system if it
is not receiving feedback from the crankshaft position
> sensor. That
could explain the no spark condition. However, I am doubtful as
> to
whether there is sufficient voltage in the ECU to log codes WHILE the
>
engine is being cranked. Ever since the car died, I have disconnected
the
> battery, thus resetting the computer. Now the starter motor turns
and I am
> not sure if turning the motor alone will allow the ECU to
capture the code.
> Any idea what the requirements are for the ECU to
begin logging? Also,
> anyone know how the crankshaft position sensor
signal is read? It would be
> great if there's somewhere besides the
actual harness connection in the
> timing belt area where it can be
measured. If I do have to go down there,
> hopefully it's a simple 0-12V
signal with an easily identifiable hot wire
> and ground. If anyone knows
details on this stuff, I'd be glad to have an
> idea before pulling out
the floor jack and ripping off the timing belt
> covers.
***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 27 Mar 2002 08:11:03
-0800
From: "Ken Middaugh" <
kmiddaugh@ixpres.com>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: starting problem
I just went through this myself. Car would
sometimes start, then die.
Other times it wouldn't start at all. There
were no ECU codes reported. I
replaced the ignition module below the
coil and that solved the problem.
Also, when I start my car, the
tachometer doesn't move until the engine
fires.
Good
luck,
Ken
- ----- Original Message -----
From: "Riyan Mynuddin"
<
riyan@hotpop.com>
To: "Team3S"
<
Team3S@stealth-3000gt.st>
Sent:
Wednesday, March 27, 2002 12:04 AM
Subject: RE: Team3S: starting
problem
> :)
>
> And about an hour and a half later...
I'm changing my tone completely.
> Forget taking my baby to the mechanic.
I just learned that a scan tool is
> not necessary to read trouble codes
(all you need is a voltmeter) and that
> there's really only two things
left that could be causing my car not to
> spark.
>
> I do
have some questions before I run out with the voltmeter tomorrow
>
morning. Will the ECU report a code 22 "no crankshaft position sensor
>
signal" even if the car does not start? It's kind of a catch 22, because
>
from my research I've heard that the ECU will not allow voltage to the
>
ignition system if it is not receiving feedback from the
crankshaft
position
> sensor. That could explain the no spark
condition. However, I am doubtful
as
> to whether there is sufficient
voltage in the ECU to log codes WHILE the
> engine is being cranked. Ever
since the car died, I have disconnected the
> battery, thus resetting the
computer. Now the starter motor turns and I am
> not sure if turning the
motor alone will allow the ECU to capture the
code.
> Any idea what the
requirements are for the ECU to begin logging? Also,
> anyone know how the
crankshaft position sensor signal is read? It would be
> great if there's
somewhere besides the actual harness connection in the
> timing belt area
where it can be measured. If I do have to go down there,
> hopefully it's
a simple 0-12V signal with an easily identifiable hot wire
> and ground.
If anyone knows details on this stuff, I'd be glad to have an
> idea
before pulling out the floor jack and ripping off the timing belt
>
covers.
>
> I'd like to thank those who helped me out with
information regarding the
> capacitor, and I'd greatly appreciate help
with this stage as well.
>
>
> For the people that didn't see
the previous thread: see "ignition coil
> capacitor, spec,
availability"
> or read on:
>
> My car died after I got off
the freeway. It slowly lost power and started
a
> few times. Then it
refused to start, and investigation leads to a no spark
> condition. After
replacing the capacitor, ignition coil, plugs, and wires,
> and running
the diagnostic on the power transistor, I put the car back
> together and
there's still no spark. All that is left are wire harnesses,
> the
crankshaft position sensor, and (hope not) an actual fault in the ECU.
>
So before I get impatient here and give some guy at a shop whatever's
in
my
> wallet, I'm going to suck it up and check the last few
possibilities. Wish
> me luck.
>
> Riyan
***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
End of Team3S: 3000GT &
Stealth V1
#794
***************************************