Team3S: 3000GT & Stealth Tuesday, March 26
2002 Volume 01 : Number
793
----------------------------------------------------------------------
Date:
Mon, 25 Mar 2002 09:37:31 -0600
From: "Jannusch, Matt" <
mjannusch@marketwatch.com>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: Diagnostic Tools
> Where would I go about getting a
diagnostic tool for
> my car? Would those generic ones in the local
auto
> store work, or do/should I get a hold of an actual
>
Mitsubishi one? Thanks.
You forgot to tell us what year your car
is. If '91-93 you can use a TMO
Datalogger, or a PocketLogger, or a
TunerStein logger. If '94-95 you are
screwed. If '96 and later
you can use any OBD-II scan tool. There are
several available on the
internet.
- -Matt
'95 3000GT Spyder VR4
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 25 Mar 2002 09:16:22
-0800 (PST)
From: menalteed <
menalteed@yahoo.com>
Subject:
Team3S: Timing Belt check
Yesterday I was totally amazed by the thread on
car
not starting and the suggestion to just simply check
the timing belt.
I then read where people just jumped
too it and came back after a quick check
of the timing
belt. I must be missing something here, I have a 92
Stealth
and to get to the timing belt cover I thought
I needed to remove the
serpentine belt and alternator
and
of course the panel that allows you to
gain access to
these rather hidden area. I'm very interested how
people
manage to run to their car and bingo, check the
timing belt. I must be
missing something or have over
looked some quick access panel for viewing the
timing
belt. I admit I'm a long way from being a auto
mechanic, but being
retired I have learned to do most
things on my car one at a time, not the
timing belt
but I will do that when the time comes again. I would
like to
peek at it though with the simple trick that
you people seem to know. The
question is what is that
simple trick? Another quick question where is
the
lowest water plug on the 92 Stealth twin turbo, I
would like to drain
all the water out and after
crawling around under the car have yet to spot
the
lowest drain plug. I looked at the book but the
picture of the plug
doesn't register as someplace
under my car, could some one tell me in simple
terms
where that plug is, say in relation to the oil pan, or
something
that would be easy to recognize.
Peter 92 Stealthe RT TT 13G's K&N
air filter,
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 25 Mar 2002 09:30:34
-0800
From: "Andrew D. Woll" <
awoll1@pacbell.net>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: Won't start /checking
Try squirting some starter fluid into the
engine. See if it will at least
start - run a couple of seconds - and then
die - or - if your lucky - it may
just continue to run.
Andy
-
----- Original Message -----
From: "dakken" <
dougusmagnus@attbi.com>
To: "Tim
& Marina Furbush" <
furbush4@netzero.net>;
"Team3S"
<
Team3S@stealth-3000gt.st>
Sent:
Sunday, March 24, 2002 2:54 PM
Subject: Re: Team3S: Won't start
/checking
> You got me stumped. In order for a car to start it
needs: Gas, air,
spark,
> cranking motion, and correct
timing. If you have all of that, then it
> should start.
Anything else that could go wrong would just be bizzare.
> Even if you
have something draining your battery, it should still start if
> it can
crank, has spark and fuel like you said.
>
> Doug
> 92 Stealth
RT TT
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 25 Mar 2002 11:41:03
-0600
From: "Jannusch, Matt" <
mjannusch@marketwatch.com>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: Timing Belt check
> I'm very interested how people manage
to
> run to their car and bingo, check the
> timing belt. I must be
missing something
> or have over looked some quick access
> panel
for viewing the timing belt.
All you need to do to verify timing is to
turn the crank to align with the 0
degrees mark on the timing cover, then
take off the two inspection covers
that cover the cam sprockets (a few fairly
easily accessible bolts) and
verify the sprockets against the marks on the
heads. The belt tension
should be pretty tight - tight enough that the
belt doesn't flop around
between the sprockets with the motor
running.
If they line up, you are in great shape. If they don't,
then further more
involved disassembly is required.
- -Matt
'95
3000GT Spyder VR4
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 25 Mar 2002 11:34:58
-0800 (PST)
From: menalteed <
menalteed@yahoo.com>
Subject: RE:
Team3S: Timing Belt check
>All you need to do to verify timing is to
turn the
crank to align with the 0
degrees mark on the timing cover, then
take off the
two inspection covers
that cover the cam sprockets (a few
fairly easily
accessible bolts) and
verify the sprockets against the marks
on the heads.<
Now that is all greek to me, I guess I'm not ready
for
such technical answers, turn the crank to align with 0,
align what
with 0, I know what my engine looks like
from the top, and have just changed
out my turbos but
I haven't run into anything with a 0 on it or have
I
spoted the crank on my journey through the mechinal
maze of the Stealth.
I do know that the only way I
know how to get to the timing belt is removing
the
panels in the wheel well, removing the belts and
altenator and Ac
unit, then the access cover for the
timing belt, and I think the only way for
me to look
at the crank is removing the oil pan, and for that I
need to
remove the starter so I wouldn't be able to
crank it over to a 0, if there is
a 0 someplace. Sorry
I get frustrated sometimes with my lack of
knowledge
on the workings of this car.
peter 92
Stealth
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 25 Mar 2002 12:49:25
-0700
From: "Paul Prentis" <
paul@ppeengineering.com>
Subject:
Team3S: Tein HA coilovers and EDFC on 1st gen
I installed my HA coilovers
on my 1st gen Stealth and checked to see how
much clearance there is for the
EDFC stepper motors. Unfortunately there is
less than an inch of
clearance and the motors are about 1.5" high. 1st gen
guys can raise the hood
blisters about 1/2 - 3/4 inch and the EDFC should
fit. Doesn't
look like the 2nd Gen guys will be able to fit it though. I
will still
get an EDFC next month and make sure.
Paul
www.ppeengineering.com- -----
Original Message -----
From: "MIHAI RAICU" <
mraicu@wayne.edu>
To: "Team" <
Team3S@stealth-3000gt.st>
Cc:
<
dschilberg@pobox.com>
Sent:
Friday, March 22, 2002 7:30 PM
Subject: Team3S: EDFC(Electronic Damping Force
Controller) Question
> Flash,
>
> I know what you mean
when you say that lifting the back of
> the hood is a good thing in
creating a cowl effect and
> lowering under hood temps. I just hate
to be forced to
> change something cosmetically to the car, unless I elect
to
> do it. I guess Paul Prentis is going to find out for us
how
> it fits. Maybe we will not be forced to raise the hood,
or
> if we will, only 1-2 mm.
>
> -MIHAI-
***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 25 Mar 2002 13:59:52
-0600
From: "Black, Dave (ICT)" <
dblai@allstate.com>
Subject: RE:
Team3S: Another Apexi AVC-R question
Philip,
I had the same issue
with mine when first installed. I found that, as Ken
mentioned below, I
had to creep up to a duty cycle setting that was close
enough to get it to
learn. For me, it was about 68% at 4000 RPM with a
boost setting of
.95bar across all RPM bands. As you noted below, make sure
your Start
Duty is set to 0 when doing this, otherwise overboost! I have
similar
settings to yours (I think my feedback is slightly higher in later
gears) and
similar mods currently installed - BPU right now.
Just know that once you
get it to learn across all gears you should turn off
Learn Mode in all
gears. The reason is that learn mode adjusts itself
according to your
driving routine. This is why you want to be driving
"hard" when in
learn mode. Otherwise, just normal cruising around can make
Learn Mode
adjust itself to normal driving, shifting, etc. and potentially
cause you to
overboost when hard on it.
You also should turn off Learn Mode for 5th
gear as it is unnecessary. If
you want to compare settings, let me
know. It has taken some time to get
used to and adjust as
needed.
HTH
Dave 95VR4
http://www.daveblack.net-
-----Original Message-----
From: Philip V. Glazatov
[mailto:gphilip@umich.edu]
Sent: Wednesday, March 20, 2002 10:30 PM
To:
team3s@team3s.comSubject: Team3S:
Another Apexi AVC-R question
Hi Team,
My turn to ask AVC-R
questions! ;-)
My AVC-R won't learn. It just keeps the initial duty cycle
that I set and
does not try to adjust it. I made about ten WOT runs in
different gears
and... nothing.
I am connected to the RPM
signal
Start duties are at 0
Gear judge is 105 63 40 29 23
Learning is
X O O O O
Feedback speed 9 4 2 2 2
Cylinders 6 4 ->.
It does not
overshoot the target. I tried to set target boost to 0.9 and
0.7 bar and
duty cycles to 35% and 25% and it just boosts about 0.1 bar
below the target
and won't start learning. If I raise the duty cycle
manually to 70% I can
boost slightly above 1 bar. But if I set it low it
just stays there and I
cannot even get that 0.7 bar unless I raise the duty
by hand. Even if I help
it with raising the duty it still won't learn. Any
ideas?
Thanks.
Philip
'95 Red R/T TT
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 25 Mar 2002 14:19:56
-0600
From: "Jannusch, Matt" <
mjannusch@marketwatch.com>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: Timing Belt check
> Now that is all greek to me, I guess
I'm not ready for
> such technical answers, turn the crank to align
with
> 0, align what with 0
It isn't nearly as bad as you
think...
If you take off the driver's side wheel and then remove the
plastic splash
panel towards the motor you get clear access to the crank
pulley. On it
there is a mark that you align to a zero mark on the
timing belt cover right
next to that pulley. You can turn the crank by
using a 1/2" ratchet wrench
to align the marks.
> I do know that
the only way I know how
> to get to the timing belt is removing
the
> panels in the wheel well, removing the belts and
> altenator
and Ac unit, then the access
> cover for the timing belt, and I think
the
> only way for me to look at the crank is
> removing the oil
pan, and for that I
> need to remove the starter so I wouldn't
> be
able to crank it over to a 0, if there
> is a 0 someplace.
You
don't have to get full access to the timing belt, only be able to look
at the
upper sprockets on the cams. For that you just remove the
two
easy-to-remove plastic covers on the top of the motor which cover
the
sprockets. You don't have to look at the crank directly to align
it, just
use the reference marks on the crank pulley so there's no need to go
tearing
your motor apart to do it.
If you just need to verify that the
cam timing is correct, then that's all
you need to do. If the timing is
incorrect, then you need to pull that all
apart in order to realign it and
probably replace the tensioner.
- -Matt
'95 3000GT Spyder
VR4
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 25 Mar 2002 14:48:47
-0600
From: "Black, Dave (ICT)" <
dblai@allstate.com>
Subject: RE:
Team3S: BOV Suggestions
The 2nd gen linkage is the one that gets in the
way. The 1st gen is fine.
Dave 95VR4
http://www.daveblack.net-
-----Original Message-----
From: Darren Schilberg
[mailto:dschilberg@pobox.com]
Sent: Sunday, March 10, 2002 3:20 PM
To:
Team3s@stealth-3000gt.stSubject:
RE: Team3S: BOV Suggestions
On what type of car is this, Craig? I
know the shift linkage from a
first gen (5 speed) to a second gen (6 speed)
is slightly different.
The first gen has just one rod coming up for the shift
linkage and the
second gen has two rods.
I've seen an HKS Super
Sequential BOV on a first gen Stealth that I
don't think needed to be tied
out of the way (Ken Stanton's car). Maybe
I couldn't see if it was tied
back or not.
- --Flash!
1995 VR-4
- -----Original
Message-----
From: Craig Hodges
Sent: Sunday, March 10, 2002
16:12
I have a Greddy Type S, and I think a lot of guys use these.
It works
great
for me. You do need to cable tye it out of the way of the
shifting
linkage.
But otherwise it works great.
***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 25 Mar 2002 15:00:10
-0600
From: "Black, Dave (ICT)" <
dblai@allstate.com>
Subject:
Sputtering prob. solved - was RE: Team3S: Diagnosing knock vs. sp ark
blowout?
Well last night I finally found the culprit of my sputtering
problem -
misgapped spark plugs - stock gap .042!
No wonder I have had
issues. I had the Stealer do my 60K and told them to
regap to
0.34. Obviously, if you want a job done right you have to do
it
yourself. So, I tackled the intake plenum, regapped the plugs, and
changed
the plug wires while I was at it.
Looking forward to no more
sputtering....
My question is has this harmed the engine in any way with
the plugs gapped
at .042 running 1.0 psi?
Dave 95VR4
http://www.daveblack.net-
-----Original Message-----
From: Black, Dave (ICT)
Sent: Friday, January
25, 2002 1:39 PM
To:
'stealth@starnet.net'; Team3s
(E-mail)
Subject: Team3S: Diagnosing knock vs. spark blowout?
I am
having a small problem that I am unsure how to diagnose. I am
thinking
the issue is either knock or spark blowout. How do I
differentiate between
the two?
The problem is as follows:
basically
I have a somewhat inconsistent problem with losing a lot of power
at about
4500rpm - 5500rpm in 2nd gear. Sometimes if I hammer it down the
car
will get up to 4500-5500rpm and sputter and really lose power. I have
a
K&N FIPK, Apexi S-AVCR @ 1.0 bar and Borla exhaust. The car
appears to
drive fine after the sputtering occurs - unfortunately I've
already lost the
race...LOL
>From what I have heard, it sounds to
me like either knock or spark blowout.
I had the plugs changed and
"supposedly" regapped to .034 about 7000 mi ago.
I have not yet changed the
plug wires so I think it could also be that.
My question is how I do
differentiate between knock and spark blowout?
Dave 95VR4
http://www.daveblack.net***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 25 Mar 2002 17:06:12
EST
From:
M3000GTSL84@aol.comSubject: Team3S:
N/A intake hose question
i am the current owner of a 97 3000GT
SL. Its stock right now, but i plan
to change that soon. The first mod
i plan on is an intake (K&N), and an
intake pipe to replace the stock
rubber one. My question is, will the pipe
really damage the car in any
way? i kno mitsu didnt put any parts on the car
just for laughs, so
will removing the resonator, and feeding alot more air
into the engine hurt
it? the car engine is in excellent condition right
now.I kno a good deal
about cars, but the 3000GT is pretty rare and its hard
to find good advice
when your the only one in the neighborhood with it. i
just wanna make sure i
dont waste time, or money, or effort, and make the car
run
as good and
healthy as possible. thanx for your help
-mike 97 red
SL
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 25 Mar 2002 15:17:34
-0800
From: "Bradford J. Gay" <
bradfordjgay@charter.net>
Subject:
Team3S: Problems.... :(
Okay, here's what's going on.
I installed the
DNP intercooler pipes w/Y-pipe and the Bozz Speed dual
cannon exhaust.
The exhaust was installed about a week before and the
car was running fine
(other than the check engine lights thanks to the
O2 sensors). After
installing the IC pipes, I thought I had it running
fine last night.
Today I took it on the freeway to see what would
happen at high speeds.
It did fine, until I got back in to town and now
it has a low idle and is
running horribly at idle. All the pipes and
hoses are secured and as
far as I can tell, no air is leaking. Any
ideas? Help!
-
-Brad
1997 VR-4
K&N Filter, Magnecor KV85 wires, Bozz
Speed Dual Cannon Exhaust, DN
Performance Intercooler pipes
***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 25 Mar 2002 19:22:31
EST
From:
M3000GTSL84@aol.comSubject: Team3S:
Poor quality intake pipe?
Ive seen the DN steel intake pipe on the
website, but is it of poor quality?
and if i should get it, then does any1
recomend with or without resonator
hole?
- -mike
***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 25 Mar 2002 17:11:45
-0800
From: "dakken" <
dougusmagnus@attbi.com>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Problems.... :(
This has been something that has puzzled me
about the two cars that I own
for a while. Sometimes when I drive a
little hard, my Celica and Stealth
idle lower and rougher. It has never
been a problem for me. When the
engine cools down, I start it again
then everything is fine on both cars.
If anyone knows why this happens then I
would be interested in the reason
too. The only thing that I can think
of is that it never happened until I
installed K&N air filters.
Maybe it is a side effect of a less
restrictive
intake/exhaust?
Doug
92 Stealth RT TT
> Okay,
here's what's going on.
> I installed the DNP intercooler pipes w/Y-pipe
and the Bozz Speed dual
> cannon exhaust. The exhaust was installed
about a week before and the
> car was running fine (other than the check
engine lights thanks to the
> O2 sensors). After installing the IC
pipes, I thought I had it running
> fine last night. Today I took it
on the freeway to see what would
> happen at high speeds. It did
fine, until I got back in to town and now
> it has a low idle and is
running horribly at idle. All the pipes and
> hoses are secured and
as far as I can tell, no air is leaking. Any
> ideas?
Help!
>
> -Brad
> 1997 VR-4
> K&N
Filter, Magnecor KV85 wires, Bozz Speed Dual Cannon Exhaust, DN
>
Performance Intercooler pipes
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 25 Mar 2002 20:22:08
-0500
From: "Tim & Marina Furbush" <
furbush4@netzero.net>
Subject:
Team3S: RE: Won't Start
Your not going to believe this....
I
charged the battery AGAIN for about five with jumper cables. So I could
bump
it around to check the timing again and she started puring like
a
kitten. I tried this all day yesterday and nothing, so I just
unpluged the
battery an gave up. She runs great again....
thanks for
the help, if ya'll have any guess why let me
know....
tim
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 25 Mar 2002 20:24:33
-0500
From: "Tim & Marina Furbush" <
furbush4@netzero.net>
Subject: RE:
Team3S: Won't start /checking
I looked at them last night, they gave me
some ideas. But she runs now, go
figure..
- -----Original
Message-----
From: Zobel, Kurt [mailto:KURT.ZOBEL@ca.com]
Sent: Monday,
March 25, 2002 2:02 PM
To: Tim & Marina Furbush; Andrew D.
Woll
Subject: RE: Team3S: Won't start /checking
Oops, sent to wrong
email at first.
Tim & Marina, please check archives for
below:
Subject: RE: Team3S: Won't start /checking
See recent
thread on 'won't start' or 'crank angle sensor'.
Just a month ago or
so.
Kurt
- -----Original Message-----
From: Andrew D. Woll
[mailto:awoll1@pacbell.net]
Sent: Monday, March 25, 2002 9:31 AM
To:
dakken; Tim & Marina Furbush; Team3S
Subject: Re: Team3S: Won't start
/checking
Try squirting some starter fluid into the engine. See if it
will at least
start - run a couple of seconds - and then die - or - if your
lucky - it may
just continue to run.
Andy
- ----- Original Message
-----
From: "dakken" <
dougusmagnus@attbi.com>
To: "Tim
& Marina Furbush" <
furbush4@netzero.net>;
"Team3S"
<
Team3S@stealth-3000gt.st>
Sent:
Sunday, March 24, 2002 2:54 PM
Subject: Re: Team3S: Won't start
/checking
> You got me stumped. In order for a car to start it
needs: Gas, air,
spark,
> cranking motion, and correct
timing. If you have all of that, then it
> should start.
Anything else that could go wrong would just be bizzare.
> Even if you
have something draining your battery, it should still start if
> it can
crank, has spark and fuel like you said.
>
>
> Doug
> 92
Stealth RT TT
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 25 Mar 2002 20:48:05
-0600
From: "
merritt@cedar-rapids.net" <
merritt@cedar-rapids.net>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: RE: Won't Start
Sounds like bad battery cables or connections
or both.
Maybe a short in the system somewhere.
Rich/slow old
poop.
At 08:22 PM 3/25/02 -0500, Tim & Marina Furbush
wrote:
>Your not going to believe this....
>
>I charged the
battery AGAIN for about five with jumper cables. So I could
>bump it
around to check the timing again and she started puring like
a
>kitten. I tried this all day yesterday and nothing, so I just
unpluged the
>battery an gave up. She runs great
again....
>thanks for the help, if ya'll have any guess why let me
know....
>
> tim
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 26 Mar 2002 12:11:40
+0800
From: "John Stegall III" <
jstegall@programmer.net>
Subject:
Team3S: Effects of 15-50 Oil
For the year that I've owned my 94 VR-4,
I've always put Mobil 10-30 synthetic oil in the car. I haven't recently
had time to change my oil and so took it down to my local jiffy lube, where one
of the guys there owned a Mazda RX-7 turbo. He noticed the "Mitsubishi
tap" and mentioned that his Mazda had the same problem, and he switched to Mobil
15-50 synthetic oil and it fixed up that problem. I took his advice and
sure enough, the tap is gone, and has been for a week now. To supplement
for the higher viscosity oil I give my turbos an extra 30 seconds to cool down
under normal driving conditions and an extra minute to cool down when I've
raced. I was just curious, does anyone else on the list use 15-50, and if
not, is there a reason for it?
John
1994 3000GT VR-4
(stock)
*** Info:
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***
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 25 Mar 2002 22:29:11
-0600
From: "
merritt@cedar-rapids.net" <
merritt@cedar-rapids.net>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Effects of 15-50 Oil
>For the year that I've owned my 94
VR-4, I've always put Mobil 10-30 synthetic oil in the car. I haven't
recently had time to change my oil and so took it down to my local jiffy lube,
where one of the guys there owned a Mazda RX-7 turbo. He noticed the
"Mitsubishi tap" and mentioned that his Mazda had the same problem, and he
switched to Mobil 15-50 synthetic oil and it fixed up that problem.
I could be wrong, but I thought an RX7 was a rotary. Therefore, it
doesn't have valve lifters or cams, so it doesn't have "lifter tick" like we do.
I suspect they just put some clean oil in, and it cleaned up yer tick.
Or you might have been down a quart.
You can also just go out and run
the s**t out of it -- that tends to get rid of lifter tick, too.
I hope
the oil change experts at Jiffy Lube put in a Mitsubishi filter for the VR4, and
not a junky AC Delco. Did you check to see if they actually put a filter in,
screwed it down, put the drain plug back in, and then put oil in? Gotta
watch those guys. Look under your car for the unmistakeable sign of a Jiffy Lube
oil change -- a puddle of oil.
Rich/slow old poop
***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 26 Mar 2002 00:24:21
-0500
From: "Philip V. Glazatov" <
gphilip@umich.edu>
Subject: RE:
Team3S: Another Apexi AVC-R question
Thanks to everyone who gave me
advice on the AVCR. As soon as I manually
adjusted the "Duty" to produce
boost closer to my target 0.7 bar the AVCR
started learning. I used 38% for
the "Duty". The AVCR adjusted the "Duty"
to 68% at high RPM and did not do
anything yet at low RPM. Then I was
trying to change both the "Start Duty"
and the "Duty". They work in tandem
- - if one is higher the other has to be
lower. I made only about 20 WOT runs
with different initial settings and was
able to get this thing to start
learning several times even with the "Start
Duty" at 25% and the "Duty" at
28%. Weird. Need to go play again!
;-)
Several people that I talked to leave the AVCR in the learning mode
in one
or two gears to let it constantly adjust itself for weather and
temperature
changes. I have read that it only learns if the throttle is
>85%, so I
guess if the "Start Duties" are set right it should not
overboost too bad
even if you do not drive it hard very often. Those "Start
Duties" are the
trickiest ones in this boost controller. I have not figured
them out just yet.
I am having spark blowout therefore I could not boost
higher. I will be
replacing the spark plugs this week to fix that. I have
those Iridiums,
need to be careful with those tiny central electrodes. BTW,
what is the
recommended gap for running 1 - 1.2 bar (14.5 - 17.4 psi)? Is it
0.034" or
0.029"?
Philip
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 25 Mar 2002 21:37:21
-0800
From: "Ken Middaugh" <
kmiddaugh@ixpres.com>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: Won't start /checking
I recently had the "won't start"
problem. Sometimes it would start and run
for awhile. Then it
would die and not restart. I replaced the transistor
module just below
the coils and that solved the problem. This was the
second time it
occurred. The first time was a year earlier.
- ----- Original
Message -----
From: "Tim & Marina Furbush" <
furbush4@netzero.net>
To: "Team3S"
<
Team3S@stealth-3000gt.st>
Sent:
Monday, March 25, 2002 5:24 PM
Subject: RE: Team3S: Won't start
/checking
> I looked at them last night, they gave me some ideas. But
she runs now, go
> figure..
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 26 Mar 2002 00:53:07
-0600
From: Kar-Yeong Teoh <
karyeong@yahoo.com>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: Effects of 15-50 Oil
This RX7 guy obviously doesn't know much
about his own car, let alone
your 3000GT, you're _not_ supposed to put any
synthetic oil on a rotary
engine as it needs to be able to 'burn' some of
the engine oil for
lubrication or something to that effect. Correct me if
I'm wrong.
Kar-Yeong Teoh
http://csmajors.com/resume.doc
unemployed programmer looking for a
career to pay up the 95 RT/TT
laon.
merritt@cedar-rapids.net
wrote:
>>For the year that I've owned my 94 VR-4, I've always put Mobil
10-30 synthetic oil in the car. I haven't recently had time to change my
oil and so took it down to my local jiffy lube, where one of the guys there
owned a Mazda RX-7 turbo. He noticed the "Mitsubishi tap" and mentioned
that his Mazda had the same problem, and he switched to Mobil 15-50 synthetic
oil and it fixed up that problem.
>>
>
> I could be
wrong, but I thought an RX7 was a rotary. Therefore, it doesn't have valve
lifters or cams, so it doesn't have "lifter tick" like we do.
>
>
I suspect they just put some clean oil in, and it cleaned up yer tick. Or you
might have been down a quart.
>
> You can also just go out and run
the s**t out of it -- that tends to get rid of lifter tick, too.
>
> I hope the oil change experts at Jiffy Lube put in a Mitsubishi filter
for the VR4, and not a junky AC Delco. Did you check to see if they actually put
a filter in, screwed it down, put the drain plug back in, and then put oil
in? Gotta watch those guys. Look under your car for the unmistakeable sign
of a Jiffy Lube oil change -- a puddle of oil.
>
> Rich/slow
old poop
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 25 Mar 2002 21:59:23
-0800
From: "Ken Middaugh" <
kmiddaugh@ixpres.com>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: Another Apexi AVC-R question
"Duty" and "Start Duty" can be
tricky to understand. When the SAVCR
"learns", it creates a curve of
duty settings that are used to reach your
desired boost values. This
same curve is applied to all gears and varies
with different RPM. The
"Start Duty" values are used to over-ride the
learned duty curve in order to
create or eliminate over boosting or under
boosting per gear. I.e. I
have a start duty of +50% for 1st gear so that I
can achieve the maximum
boost possible. 1st gear accells reach redline so
quickly that the
turbos barely have time to spool up all the way. Another
thing you
could try is to use a minus setting for 4th & 5th so your max
boost would
be a little lower than that achieved in 3rd.
It is very important that
you learn a good duty curve and maintain a good
curve (keep learning mode
enabled for at least one gear). Once you have a
good curve, then you
can specify Start Duty values to deviate from the
learned duty
curve.
Good luck,
Ken
- ----- Original Message -----
From:
"Philip V. Glazatov" <
gphilip@umich.edu>
To: "Black, Dave
(ICT)" <
dblai@allstate.com>;
<
team3s@team3s.com>;
"Ken
Middaugh" <
kmiddaugh@ixpres.com>; "Furman,
Russell"
<
RFurman2@MassMutual.com>; "Mihai
Raicu" <
mraicu@wayne.edu>
Sent:
Monday, March 25, 2002 9:24 PM
Subject: RE: Team3S: Another Apexi AVC-R
question
> Thanks to everyone who gave me advice on the AVCR. As soon
as I manually
> adjusted the "Duty" to produce boost closer to my target
0.7 bar the AVCR
> started learning. I used 38% for the "Duty". The AVCR
adjusted the "Duty"
> to 68% at high RPM and did not do anything yet at
low RPM. Then I was
> trying to change both the "Start Duty" and the
"Duty". They work in tandem
> - if one is higher the other has to be
lower. I made only about 20 WOT
runs
> with different initial settings
and was able to get this thing to start
> learning several times even with
the "Start Duty" at 25% and the "Duty" at
> 28%. Weird. Need to go play
again! ;-)
>
> Several people that I talked to leave the AVCR in the
learning mode in one
> or two gears to let it constantly adjust itself for
weather and
temperature
> changes. I have read that it only learns if
the throttle is >85%, so I
> guess if the "Start Duties" are set right
it should not overboost too bad
> even if you do not drive it hard very
often. Those "Start Duties" are the
> trickiest ones in this boost
controller. I have not figured them out just
yet.
>
> I am having
spark blowout therefore I could not boost higher. I will be
> replacing
the spark plugs this week to fix that. I have those Iridiums,
> need to be
careful with those tiny central electrodes. BTW, what is the
> recommended
gap for running 1 - 1.2 bar (14.5 - 17.4 psi)? Is it 0.034" or
>
0.029"?
>
> Philip
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 25 Mar 2002 22:01:04
-0800 (PST)
From: Geoff Mohler <
gemohler@www.speedtoys.com>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Effects of 15-50 Oil
And..you know exactly what about -all-
synthetics?
I own a RX7-TT, and almost the highest recommendation for
racing oil is in
fact Redline SAE-50 weight oil.
As a tech note..its
worth stating that all synthetics are NOT created
equally. Some are
extremely ashy (cheaper labels) and hard-core labels
were meant for high
stress, high sheer, high temp environments.
On Tue, 26 Mar 2002,
Kar-Yeong Teoh wrote:
> This RX7 guy obviously doesn't know much about
his own car, let alone
> your 3000GT, you're _not_ supposed to put any
synthetic oil on a rotary
> engine as it needs to be able to 'burn' some
of the engine oil for
> lubrication or something to that effect. Correct
me if I'm wrong.
>
> Kar-Yeong Teoh
>
http://csmajors.com/resume.doc
unemployed programmer looking for a
> career to pay up the 95 RT/TT
laon.
>
>
merritt@cedar-rapids.net
wrote:
> >>For the year that I've owned my 94 VR-4, I've always put
Mobil 10-30 synthetic oil in the car. I haven't recently had time to
change my oil and so took it down to my local jiffy lube, where one of the guys
there owned a Mazda RX-7 turbo. He noticed the "Mitsubishi tap" and
mentioned that his Mazda had the same problem, and he switched to Mobil 15-50
synthetic oil and it fixed up that problem.
> >>
> >
> > I could be wrong, but I thought an RX7 was a rotary. Therefore, it
doesn't have valve lifters or cams, so it doesn't have "lifter tick" like we do.
> >
> > I suspect they just put some clean oil in, and it
cleaned up yer tick. Or you might have been down a quart.
> >
>
> You can also just go out and run the s**t out of it -- that tends to get
rid of lifter tick, too.
> >
> > I hope the oil change
experts at Jiffy Lube put in a Mitsubishi filter for the VR4, and not a junky AC
Delco. Did you check to see if they actually put a filter in, screwed it down,
put the drain plug back in, and then put oil in? Gotta watch those guys.
Look under your car for the unmistakeable sign of a Jiffy Lube oil change -- a
puddle of oil.
> >
> > Rich/slow old poop
-
---
Geoff Mohler
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 26 Mar 2002 01:30:15
-0600
From: "Jannusch, Matt" <
mjannusch@marketwatch.com>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: Effects of 15-50 Oil
> I haven't recently had time to
change my oil and
> so took it down to my local jiffy lube, where
>
one of the guys there owned a Mazda RX-7 turbo.
> He noticed the
"Mitsubishi tap" and mentioned
> that his Mazda had the same problem, and
he
> switched to Mobil 15-50 synthetic oil and it
> fixed up that
problem.
Lifters on an RX-7? That's a new one to me... I
thought they didn't use
valves and lifters and pistons and other useless
pieces on a Wankel motor.
:-)
> I took his advice and sure enough,
the tap is
> gone, and has been for a week now. To
supplement
> for the higher viscosity oil I give my turbos
> an
extra 30 seconds to cool down under normal
> driving conditions and an
extra minute to cool
> down when I've raced. I was just curious,
does
> anyone else on the list use 15-50, and if not,
> is there a
reason for it?
It is probably flowing slower through the lifters and
resists getting pumped
out of them a little better. Maybe enough to
"fix" your lifter tick issue.
If it works, then great!
I doubt the
higher viscosity oil will cause any problems, but you might get
more cold
start wear on bearings (notice the word "might" in there).
Probably no
negative effects unless you run your car in cold weather (cold
weather in my
neck of the woods is sub-30 degrees F.). Maybe just watch out
for
substantially higher than normal oil pressure which might indicate that
it
isn't flowing well enough to provide good cold bearing protection.
-
-Matt
'95 3000GT Spyder VR4
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 25 Mar 2002 23:57:00
-0800
From: "dakken" <
dougusmagnus@attbi.com>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: RE: Won't Start
You should take your car to a auto parts
store and have them check your
battery on a load tester and have them test
your alternator too while they
are at it. I know the auto parts stores
like Kragen and Autozone in
California will do it for free. If your
battery is completely dead then
your car won't start even with jumper cables
on it unless you let it charge
for 5 minutes like you did. If your
battery is good then you need to find
what is draining your battery. To
do this, pull all of your fuses and then
check each fuse slot with a multi
meter to isolate which system is draining
your battery. If you have
anything that is after market, like a stereo or
alarm, then you want to check
them first since they tend to fail and drain
the battery more often than
stock stuff. Once you find which system the
drain is on then check each
component with your meter until you find the one
that keeps killing your
battery and fix it.
Doug
92 Stealth RT TT
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 26 Mar 2002 09:08:30
-0500
From:
Jeff.A.Williamson@jci.comSubject:
Team3S: Starter Screech
My starter recently started making that annoying
screech/scrape sound that
occurs right after the engine has started and the
starter is disengaging. I
helped another 3Sr replace his starter last year
for the same reason. Is
there any way to repair the starter or must it be
replaced? I'm assuming
it's a bendix bearing or bushing gone bad,
right?
Thanks,
Jeff W.
Belleville, MI
'92
VR4
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 26 Mar 2002 09:52:29
-0500
From: "Mihai Raicu" <
mraicu@wayne.edu>
Subject: RE: Team3S:
Another Apexi AVC-R question
Philip,
I'm glad things are starting
to work.
used 38% for the "Duty". The AVCR adjusted the
"Duty"
> to 68% at high RPM and did not do anything yet at low RPM. Then I
was
> trying to change both the "Start Duty" and the "Duty". They work
in
tandem
> - if one is higher the other has to be lower. I made only
about 20 WOT
> runs
> with different initial settings and was able
to get this thing to
start
> learning several times even with the
"Start Duty" at 25% and the
"Duty" at
> 28%. Weird. Need to go play
again! ;-)
The Start Duty shifts up/down the normal Duty curve by X% for
the
appropriate gear. I thought learning mode was disabled for each
gear
where you had a start duty setting. There is no reason to have
start
duty settings in every gear. Tune your car to hit the target
boost in a
gear (3rd is best) and then if the other gears are not hitting it
adjust
accordingly. Gear 1 and 2 will underboost, therefore you will
bump up
the start duty here, while gear 4 and five you may need to lower
the
start duty by 1-3% due to overboosting.
> Several people that I
talked to leave the AVCR in the learning mode in
one
> or two gears to
let it constantly adjust itself for weather and
> temperature
>
changes. I have read that it only learns if the throttle is >85%, so
I
> guess if the "Start Duties" are set right it should not overboost
too
bad
> even if you do not drive it hard very often.
Now,
since you have 0% as a Start Duty in 3rd, you can leave the
learning mode on
here. In my opinion you need this because the
difference in temperature
between morning and afternoon can be as much
as 50 deg F during the
summer. This affects your boost settings
somewhat. If you have
your car tuned for morning temps, it will
underboost in the afternoon
(warmer). If you have your car tuned for
afternoon, it will overboost
in the morning. If your car always hits
target boost, there is no need to
leave it in learning mode.
Those "Start Duties" are the
> trickiest
ones in this boost controller. I have not figured them out
just
>
yet.
Tune your car in one gear without start duties, then go back and
adjust
up/down each other gear. It should probably follow the following
trend:
Gear 1 2 3 4 5
Start Duty +10% +5% 0 -1% -2%
Gear 4 and
5 may be able to stay at 0%.
> I am having spark blowout therefore I
could not boost higher. I will
be
> replacing the spark plugs this week
to fix that. I have those
Iridiums,
> need to be careful with those
tiny central electrodes. BTW, what is
the
> recommended gap for running
1 - 1.2 bar (14.5 - 17.4 psi)? Is it
0.034" or
> 0.029"?
>
Others will probably tell you this too: run the NKG plugs. For
boosting
@ 1 bar you probably want a gap of 0.032". If more boost you
can go
even lower. You can also consider getting the NKG's one range
colder.
If you search the archives, someone posted the part numbers in the
past.
Consult others on the list before you do this.
However,
you cannot boost safely above 1 bar if you do not have bigger
injectors and
fuel pump. Tell us your mods please.
Boost safely.
-
-MIHAI-
95 Red VR4
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 26 Mar 2002 07:10:24
-0800 (PST)
From: Kian Habib <
ill1027@yahoo.com>
Subject: Team3S:
buying a VR-4
I'm planning on buying a vr-4 sometime in May and
I'm
trying to get all the details I can so I can buy
exactly what is best
and make sure I get what I want.
I noticed that on most vr4s (after 94) the
headlights
look kind of like circles and have the car paint on
them or
whatever. I have seen ones that also look
clear or have some sort of clear
covering or
something. Is this just my imagination or what? Is
there any
difference between the two? thanks and if
there are any other tips about
buying an after 94'
vr-4 I'd love to hear them!
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 26 Mar 2002 07:43:49
-0800
From: "fastmax" <
fastmax@cox.net>
Subject: Re: Team3S:
Starter Screech
somebody just went through that on this list --- the
starter hangs up on the
flywheel for a second before releasing. I fixed mine
with a little WD-40, kind
of an afterthought when changing the transmission,
the other guy took his
apart and lubed some miscellaneous
parts.
Jim
Berry [See appended email
]
===================================================
It sounds like
the starter not disengaging from the flywheel --- It hangs up for
a second or
so. I cleared mine up with a little WD-40 when I had the starter
out for
trans work.
Jim Berry
-
----- Original Message -----
From: "Aamer" <
aamer@thepentagon.com>
To:
"Team3S" <
team3s@stealth-3000gt.st>
Sent:
Monday, March 11, 2002 4:22 PM
Subject: Team3S: strange sound when car starts
(link to a sound file enclosed)
> Hello list members:
>
>
This week, my car started to make a strange "screeching" noise when it
>
starts. The sound only occurs for a couple of seconds when I first start
the
> car -- and it usually won't make the sound if the car has been
started
> within the last couple of hours. I typically hear it in the
mornings when I
> start the car after it has been not been started for
over 12 hours.
>
> I've tried revving the car up to redline and I
don't hear the sound when I
> rev it. In fact, as I've said, I only hear
it when the car starts up after
> being at rest for a while. I also got
someone to start my car while I
> listened under the hood. It appears that
the noise is being produced near
> the back end of the engine -- by that I
mean the side that the flywheel is
> on (I want to say it's coming from
near cylinder #5, but I'm fairly sure
> that's not what's making the
noise).
>
> My gut instinct is telling me that the problem might be
coming from the
> starter solenoid, but I'm not sure. I recorded a sound
file of the car
> starting up ... you will be able to hear the screeching
if you listen to
> this sound.
>
> The sound is posted on the
internet at the following address:
>
http://home.nc.rr.com/aamer/car/car.wav>
> Any feedback would be appreciated. Thanks!
>
> Aamer
Abbas
> '94 3000GT (DOHC -- Naturally Aspirated)
> email:
aamer@thepentagon.com> fax: (707)
982-8817 [add +1 country code if faxing from outside the United
>
States]
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
End of Team3S: 3000GT &
Stealth V1
#793
***************************************