Team3S: 3000GT & Stealth Friday, March 22
2002 Volume 01 : Number
790
----------------------------------------------------------------------
Date:
Thu, 21 Mar 2002 16:24:19 -0500
From: "Darren Schilberg" <
dschilberg@pobox.com>
Subject: RE:
Team3S: Tein EDFC(Electronic Damping Force Controller) Suspension
Yes it
is not hard to get out of the car and adjust to full-16
adjustment and go
drive the circuit but it looks like the controller has
four so you can do all
the corners. What I like about the system is
that you can do it from
inside the car.
At a track in Kansas you drive counter-clockwise.
Same at Pocono long
course (NASCAR-style). At Mid-Ohio, Watkins Glen,
and VIR you drive
clockwise.
>From hotel to track it is usually a
mix. Sit in the car with the track
tires on (only 5 miles to the track
sometimes) and have fun. Get to the
track and dial it in for track
use. Presto. All set.
Sure it is another piece to fail on the
car or to lose in an accident,
but when you have 20 minutes in a driving
session you don't have time to
take turns 1, 2, 3, and 4 then come into the
pits, change suspension, go
back out, and test again. You DO have time
to make adjustments from
inside the car. That would be so
ideal.
One more question, Mihai, ask them if they know about the hood
change
from first gen to second. It might be worth it to buy those $100
hoods
from a first gen, take out the pod on top, and have plenty of
vertical
room to mount something on top of the shock tower.
-
--Flash!
1995 VR-3 and no ECS so this is what I've been missing
-
-----Original Message-----
From: Roger Gerl
Sent: Thursday, March 21, 2002
14:38
Very interesting (the controller is the size of the small
Blitz parts !)
I haven't found out if the kit fits all Tein shocks or the
HA for our
cars.
Also I'd like to see how they are mounted ontop of the
shocks. Possibly
fits
only with their plate.
So the function is
that the 16 "click" adjusting is controlled by system
(it's not a big deal to
do that) and this do the 4 stepper motors in the
housing. Nice idea. Now the
greatest would be to combine this with a G
sensor and let thing do the work
like our active system does . Mihai,
ask
them again for physical size and
buidl a LEGO block of the same size to
see
if it may fit.
***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 21 Mar 2002 14:30:21
-0800
From: "BlackLight" <
BlackLight@Planetice.net>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: Adjustable Cam Gears at a Great Price
Unfortunately, I am
doing a bunch of mods at once, mainly all intake,
exhaust, and drive train
stuff. So I wont be able to tell with JUST the
cam gears. I might be able to
set them at zero sometime when a g-tech or
dyno is available and then try to
tune them and see what happens. But as
of now, I have neither at my
disposal.
Matt Nelson
1994 RT TT
Computer Sales
Consultant
Gateway Computers, Salem OR
Work Phone 503-587-7113
BlackLight@Planetice.Netwww.BlackLight.5u.com-
-----Original Message-----
From:
owner-team3s@team3s.com
[mailto:owner-team3s@team3s.com] On Behalf
Of Floyd, Jim
Sent: Thursday,
March 21, 2002 11:45 AM
To: 'Team 3S'
Subject: RE: Team3S: Adjustable Cam
Gears at a Great Price
Matt,
Please let us know what you "feel"
with the cam gears.
- -----Original Message-----
From: BlackLight
[mailto:BlackLight@Planetice.net]
Sent: Thursday, March 21, 2002 12:28
PM
To: 'Furman, Russell'; 'Jannusch, Matt'
Cc: 'Team 3S'
Subject: RE:
Team3S: Adjustable Cam Gears at a Great Price
I just got the cam gears so
I am just double checking to see if this is
the correct / best setting to go
with? Advance intake +1 and retard
timing -3???
Again, no AWD Dyno
for testing. My car WAS mostly stock, but we're
changing that as I type this.
Mostly Intake / exhaust and driveline mods
so far.
Matt Nelson
1994
RT TT
Computer Sales Consultant
Gateway Computers, Salem OR
Work Phone
503-587-7113
BlackLight@Planetice.Netwww.BlackLight.5u.com-
-----Original Message-----
From:
owner-team3s@team3s.com
[mailto:owner-team3s@team3s.com] On Behalf
Of Furman, Russell
Sent:
Friday, February 08, 2002 8:08 AM
To: 'Jannusch, Matt'
Cc: 'Team
3S'
Subject: RE: Team3S: Adjustable Cam Gears at a Great Price
On our
cars I was told advance intake timing +1 deg and retard exhaust
timing -3
deg............
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Jannusch,
Matt [SMTP:mjannusch@marketwatch.com]
> Sent: Friday, February 08, 2002
11:06 AM
> To:
Team3S@team3s.com> Subject: RE:
Team3S: Adjustable Cam Gears at a Great Price
>
> > Is there a
difference between a gear and a sprocket ?
>
> Gear/Sprocket - same
thing in this case.
>
> My only question is what to set them
to. There aren't any AWD dynos
> in my local area so I'd have no
idea how to set them up.
>
> -Matt
> '95 3000GT Spyder
VR4
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 21 Mar 2002 17:39:05
-0500
From: "Mihai Raicu" <
mraicu@wayne.edu>
Subject: Team3S: RE:
Another Apexi AVC-R question
Philip,
This message can be found in
the archives from Dec 1, 01. If you search
for AVC-R you should get
quite a few hits.
- -MIHAI-
95 Red VR4
- -----Original
Message-----
From: Mihai Raicu [mailto:mraicu@wayne.edu]
Sent: Saturday,
December 01, 2001 2:15 PM
To:
'dblai@allstate.com';
'tt007ken@yahoo.com'Cc:
'Team3S@stealth-3000gt.st'Subject:
RE: Apexi AVCR question (long, for archive purposes)
Dave,
>Why
does it "overboost" to 1.10 when I have it set to 1.00 across all
>RPM
bands?
ANSW: The boost that you set it to is desired/target boost.
The car
only uses it while it is trying to learn. If learning is
disabled, then
the duty settings are used to bleed off the right amount of
air and
therefore result in a certain boost (dependent on temp,
barometric
pressure, altitude, etc.). So, if your duty is set too low,
you will
never reach 1 bar. If it is set too high, funny things can
happen: you
will exceed 1 bar by a lot up to ~5000 RPM, and then drop; or
your boost
can oscillate; neither of these scenarios are good. So, your
boost can
spike as much as 0.10 bars temporarily if you drive agressively,
but if
it holds that constantly, you need to lower the duty curve until
it
holds less than 1 bar, and then your car will learn.
Additions to
what is written below:
I personally keep my AVC-R in constant learning mode
in gears 3 and 4
only. I personally do not want my curve to change
based on gear 1
especially as that is very unreliable. I have learning
disabled for
gear 5 just as a precaution, in case the AVC-R decides to get
confused
when I'm in 6th gear, although you should almost never floor the car
in
6th (therefore, it's a bit of a redundant precaution).
The AVC-R
behaves differently in different weather conditions. In
summer you will
need more duty than in winter. When the weather changes
from winter to
spring to summer, most likely your AVC-R will learn just
fine each and every
day. However, when you go from fall to winter, if
the weather changes
too suddenly, you may need to drop the duty a few
percent across the board,
otherwise your car may be prone to
overboosting, and therefore, disabled
learning mode.
You need to make sure you have the correct gear judge
values.
Here are my personal settings:
Duty settings vary from car
to car (ie. some people like me use ~35%,
others 50%, others 70%, therefore
do not reproduce my numbers, just
notice the trend).
I set my bost at
0.95 up to below 5000 PRM in order to minimize spikes
in the sweet spot of
the turbos and/or on shifting quickly at redline.
This setup always keeps my
spikes at or below 1, and once in a blue moon
at 1.05 (tolerable).
1.
Boost/Duty
RPM Boost Duty
2500 0.95 27%
3000 0.95 27%
3500 0.95
35%
4000 0.95 28%
4500 0.95 31%
5000 1.00 33%
5500 1.00 37%
6000
1.00 34%
3. Gear Judge for 2nd gen VR4/TT (different values for 1st
gen)
1st 107
2nd 63
3rd 41
4th 30
5th 23
4. FB Speed
1st 7
2nd 3
3rd 3
4th 2
5th 2
ETC
1. Car Select
Cylinders 6
Speed 4
Throttle points to 2 o'clock
Cyl = 6
when the RPM wire is connected to the purple wire.
Cyl = 1 when the IDC wire
is connected to the purple wire.
2. Sensor Select
Relative 1
6. Start Duty
1st 0%
2nd 0%
3rd 0%
4th 0%
5th
0%
I included in this e-mail the comments from a good friend of mine,
Ken:
QUOTE..KEN WROTE:
The Apexi indiglo SAVC-R should learn very easy
and quickly. You should
be able to learn a very good curve in five or
six accelerations in 2nd
gear. That should only take you a total of 6
minutes on a vacant road.
Once you get a good curve from 2nd gear, disable
2nd gear learning then
make some 3rd gear accelerations.
If your boost
is spiking, then learning mode gets disabled. If you are
spiking, then
try LOWERING your initial Duty Cycle setting. You should
have an
initial setting in the 40's for a boost setting around 1.05
kg/cm^^2 ~= 15
psi. Most people set the initial Duty Cycle way too
high, then
overboost in low RPM which then disables learning.
END QUOTE
NEW
QUOTE..KEN WROTE:
Here are a few tips on setup:
The controller allows
you to specify your desired boost setting. You
can also specify a
"beginning point" for the duty cycle. During
learning, the Apexi will
learn the correct duty settings for specified
RPM bands. It will also
change the display of your setting, i.e 40% to
"***".
Specify desired
boost setting, no higher than 1.05 though for a stock
fuel system.
Specify duty cycle - I use 40% for peak boost of 1.05.
Perform WOT
accellerations from 2000 RPM to Redline. Do 5-6 accels in
2nd gear,
then 4+ in 3rd gear.
>How do I verify that the AVCR is in learn
mode? [DAVE WROTE THIS Q]
The Apexi computer seems to always be learning if
all the following
criteria are
met:
1) Throttle is above certain %,
close to WOT (i.e. it only learns when
you "floor it")
2) Boost pressure
doesn't exceed your specified setting
3) "Learn Gear" is enabled (for gear in
which you wish to learn in)
4) "Start Duty" is set to zero (for gear in which
you wish to learn in)
5) You are reading RPM signal, not IDC signal.
6)
Cylinder setting is set to 6
If you overboost, then lower your "beginning
point" duty setting.
I have Learn Gear normally disabled for 1st &
2nd. During intitial
setup, I enable 2nd Learn Gear to quickly learn
settings. It is easy to
do a half dozen accels to redline in 2nd, and
much more difficult to
find the road to get to redline in 3rd or higher gears
;). After values
are learned, I disable 2nd and just let 3rd+
"maintain" the learned
settings.
RPM rise so rapidly in 1st that 1st
gear learning isn't realistic. In
order to build the maximum boost in
1st, I have the Start Duty set to
+50%. A Start Duty setting other than
"0" will disable learning mode
for that gear. A Start Duty setting is
an adjustment to the baseline
duty cycle curve that the Apexi has
learned. This allows you to control
over and under boosting for
different gears.
The FeedBack setting affects the speed of the solenoid
control. You
want to specify a setting as high as possible.
However, if the setting
is too high, the boost will oscillate around the set
point. Use the
graph to see this. Start high, then lower the
setting until boost stops
oscillating and holds steady.
My current
settings (from memory) are:
RPM Boost Setting
0-4000 1.00
4000-5000
1.05
5000+ 1.00
Gear 1 2 3 4 5
Learn
Gear X X O O O
Start Duty +50 0 0 0 0
FeedBack 9 7 5 3 3
You could
probably set Start Duty for 2nd to be +2 or so to get a
slight
overboost. 2nd gear accels are fairly quick so there probably
isn't too
much risk of detonation.
END QUOTE
Personal opinion: if
you get oscillation while AVC-R is trying to learn,
you risk not
learning.
- -MIKE-
95 Red VR-4
received lots of help with my
installation and tuning of AVC-R from a
few off this list (both local and
across the country/world)
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 21 Mar 2002 17:58:17
-0500
From: "Mihai Raicu" <
mraicu@wayne.edu>
Subject: Team3S: FW:
EDFC(Electronic Damping Force Controller) Question
Roger, Flash, or other
qualified suspension people,
Here is the response to my question from
TEIN (
sales@tein.com ).
Someone that
knows more about this topic should write to them and then
report to the
list.
If the 1.5"x1.5" boxes do not fit on top of the front struts, then
maybe
the back of the hood can be raised a little bit to fit (this is not
the
best option).
- -MIHAI-
95 Red VR4
-
--------------------------------------------
- -----Original
Message-----
From: TEIN USA INC [mailto:sales@tein.com]
Sent: Thursday,
March 21, 2002 1:35 PM
To:
aa2345@wayne.eduSubject: Re:
EDFC(Electronic Damping Force Controller) Question
Thank you for your
interest in TEIN High Performance Suspension.
Currently,
we have the Type
HA available for the VR4, but we are not sure that
there
will be enough
room to mount the EDFC. The motors have dimensions of
approximately 1
1/2" high X 1 1/2" wide.
Staff @ TEIN U.S.A., INC.
- -----
Original Message -----
From: "Mihai Raicu" <
mraicu@wayne.edu>
To: <
sales@tein.com>
Sent: Wednesday, March
20, 2002 7:53 AM
Subject: EDFC(Electronic Damping Force Controller)
Question
> I have a 95 Mitsubishi 3000GT VR4 and my brother has a 94
Dodge
Stealth
> Twin Turbo (identical cars). Will the Tein EDFC
work on my car in
> conjunction with one of your Tein struts/shock
kits?
>
> Please let me know. If it works, others Stealth and
3000GT owners
will
> be interested as well (members of Team3S and
3SI).
>
> Looking forward to good news.
> [Mihai
Raicu]
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 21 Mar 2002 18:07:22
-0500
From: "Darren Schilberg" <
dschilberg@pobox.com>
Subject: RE:
Team3S: FW: EDFC(Electronic Damping Force Controller)
Question
*grin* But wouldn't raising the back of the hood help in
air entering
(cowl style) or air escaping (vents)? Some people think
air escapes
here but in a higher speed application air enters here (contact
me and
we'll discuss it).
I don't see raising the back of the hood as
a bad alternative really.
- --Flash!
- -----Original
Message-----
From: Mihai Raicu
Sent: Thursday, March 21, 2002 17:58
To:
Team3S@stealth-3000gt.st Roger,
Flash, or other qualified suspension people,
Here is the response to my
question from TEIN (
sales@tein.com
).
Someone that knows more about this topic should write to them and
then
report to the list.
If the 1.5"x1.5" boxes do not fit on top of
the front struts, then maybe
the back of the hood can be raised a little bit
to fit (this is not the
best option).
- -----Original
Message-----
From: TEIN USA INC [mailto:sales@tein.com]
Sent: Thursday,
March 21, 2002 1:35 PM
Thank you for your interest in TEIN High
Performance Suspension.
Currently,
we have the Type HA available for the
VR4, but we are not sure that
there
will be enough room to mount the
EDFC. The motors have dimensions of
approximately 1 1/2" high X 1 1/2"
wide.
Staff @ TEIN U.S.A., INC.
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 21 Mar 2002 20:14:59
-0500
From: "Philip V. Glazatov" <
gphilip@umich.edu>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: Another Apexi AVC-R question
Thanks everybody for the tips on the
AVC-R. I will try it again on the
weekend and tell everyone how it
went.
Philip
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 21 Mar 2002 21:56:31
-0700
From: "Paul Prentis" <
paul@ppeengineering.com>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: FW: EDFC(Electronic Damping Force Controller) Question
The
EDFC should fit all HA coilovers. I will be getting a EDFC to test
for
hood clearance and fitment on the 3000gt and MR2-S when they get to the
US
next month.
Oh, I also sell Tein products and can get them for you
guys at a discount.
Paul
www.ppeengineering.comsales@ppeengineering.com-
----- Original Message -----
From: "Darren Schilberg" <
dschilberg@pobox.com>
To: <
Team3S@stealth-3000gt.st>
Sent:
Thursday, March 21, 2002 4:07 PM
Subject: RE: Team3S: FW: EDFC(Electronic
Damping Force Controller) Question
> *grin* But wouldn't raising
the back of the hood help in air entering
> (cowl style) or air escaping
(vents)? Some people think air escapes
> here but in a higher speed
application air enters here (contact me and
> we'll discuss
it).
>
> I don't see raising the back of the hood as a bad
alternative really.
>
> --Flash!
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 22 Mar 2002 00:15:24
US/Central
From:
tds@brightok.netSubject: Team3S: RE:
Ham/CD antenna installation
> I noticed you have experience with both
CB and HAM for the car. I think
> 100% of truckers have CB, and that
is why I want a CB with not so ugly
> antenna on my 95 VR4. I want
to hear about the speed traps ahead. I am
> also aware that the
range will be limited on a pretty antenna (1 mile
>
probably).
>
> 1. However, how many truckers have HAM
radios?
> 2. Would I be better off just getting a HAM?
> 3. Is the range longer?
> 4. I also understand from your
discussion that the antenna is
> shorter/not so ugly.
> 5. Is the
HAM radio + antenna much more expensive than CB?
>
> If many
truckers have HAM, if the range is longer, and if the antenna is
>
shorter, I may want just go that route.
>
> Do HAM operators
still need to get licensed?
>
> The purpose is hearing others talk
about police up ahead, while not
> making the car look ugly and
potentially not letting others know I have
> a fancy radio. Which
one is better in your opinion for my use? Will I
> need
both?
>
> -MIHAI-
> 95 Red VR4
>
>
-
------------------------------------------------------------
CB's
(Chicken Band) and Amateur Radio are completely different.
One is
regulated (Ham bands), the other is not. (Citizen's Band)
It's the same type
of difference as the old free for all
Dragnet mailing list(CB) and our
regulated and technical
Team3s list. (Ham bands)
If you are only
interested in finding smokey, then pick up a
5 watt CB for $50. (or better
yet a V1) If you want to make
contacts world wide, assist in disasters,
public service,
storm/tornado watches, use repeaters, interstate
and
multistate repeater links, satellites to relay,
moon bounce, speak to
the shuttle and space station astronauts,
access an autopatch (telephone),
etc etc then you have
access to large segments of the full radio spectrum
and
up to 1500 watts. UHF/VHF/HF - all modes - SSB [USB,LSB,
AM/FM,
Morse Code, Teletype, Packet etc]
Yes, many truckers do have ham rigs - I
talk to them,
but we don't talk about where the nearest smokey is.
I work
truckers (and other mobile rigs) thousands of
miles away - DX is
usually late at night on the 80 meter band
and sometimes during the day on
the 20/15/10 meter bands
and locally anytime (within 100 miles) on VHF and
UHF 2 meter and
440 (70cm) bands.
You do have to have a license to
legally transmit on the
ham bands (thank God) but the morse code requrements
are
far less difficult than they were when I tested.
- - tds
N5MYA
http://www.brightok.net/~tdsThis
message was sent using BrightNet MailMan.
http://www.Brightok.net/mailman/***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 22 Mar 2002 00:31:29
US/Central
From:
tds@brightok.netSubject: Re: Team3S: FW:
EDFC(Electronic Damping Force Controller) Question
> The EDFC should
fit all HA coilovers. I will be getting a EDFC to test for
> hood
clearance and fitment on the 3000gt and MR2-S when they get to the US
>
next month.
>
> Oh, I also sell Tein products and can get them for
you guys at a discount.
>
> Paul
>
www.ppeengineering.com>
sales@ppeengineering.com-
-------------------------------------------------------------------------
If
the boxes are 1 1/2" high X 1 1/2" wide then
I don't see any reason they
shouldn't fit in the back
for sure since there is much more room than that
available
after the Tein install. I believe they would also fit
in
the front due to my strut covers. One of my strut covers
is now a hood
scoop and I can look right in on that side -
there appears to be more than
enough room there.
If the other side with full strut cover allows room
it should work.
I think the rubber covers and old ECS plugins took up
more room
than 1.5 inches!
Please shoot me an email when you find out
for sure
Paul! Thanks.
- - tds
http://www.brightok.net/~tdsThis
message was sent using BrightNet MailMan.
http://www.Brightok.net/mailman/***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 22 Mar 2002 01:06:25
-0600
From: "Todd D.Shelton" <
tds@brightok.net>
Subject: Re: Team3S:
Adjustable Cam Gears at a Great Price
- -----Original
Message-----
From: BlackLight <
BlackLight@Planetice.net>
To:
'Furman, Russell' <
RFurman2@MassMutual.com>;
'Jannusch, Matt'
<
mjannusch@marketwatch.com>
Cc:
'Team 3S' <
Team3S@stealth-3000gt.st>
Date:
Thursday, March 21, 2002 1:31 PM
Subject: RE: Team3S: Adjustable Cam Gears at
a Great Price
>I just got the cam gears so I am just double checking
to see if this is
>the correct / best setting to go with? Advance intake
+1 and retard
>timing -3???
>
>Again, no AWD Dyno for testing.
My car WAS mostly stock, but we're
>changing that as I type this. Mostly
Intake / exhaust and driveline mods
>so far.
>
>Matt
Nelson
-
-------------------------------------------------------------------------
That's
what I've been using with the URacing
cam gears. That's what they
recommended.
[1 Deg A intake - 3 degrees R exhaust]
But that
recommendation was based on
info provided my my motorbuilder who
has
gathered quiet a bit of info on cam
gears while dynotesting 2WD cars -
or
so he tells me. They have a close business
relationship and we
helped UR develop the
first infamous UD pulley for my StealthTT.
I
also checked with Matt at DR and he
also recommended/uses those
settings.
I'm hoping someone with access to extended
time on an AWD
dyno will verify these
recommendations for stock cams in the
future.
Deviating much from these settings can also cause
undesirable
effects - like a very lumpy idle ....
One day I plan to combine these
with new
(not reground) cams. I believe they may
provide better
results with better cams
and correct settings.
- - tds
http://www.brightok.net/~tds***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 22 Mar 2002 08:39:56
-0800
From: "Riyan Mynuddin" <
riyan@hotpop.com>
Subject: Team3S:
ignition coil capacitor... spec, availability
Hey guys,
I've got a
93 stealth rt tt. it died one day and i took it apart to find out
why. I
discovered that the ignition coil was out of spec. I ordered a new
ignition
coil from bosch for $80, but bosch gave me the three coils only,
not the
whole bracket. I need the whole bracket assembly because the
ignition coil
capactitor comes as part of the assembly and mine seems to be
rusted and out
of spec as well. The capacitor reads only 0.451 micro farads
of capacitance.
Any idea how much a stealth ic capactitor should read, and
whether I can just
use a generic replacement? Yesterday, I stopped by my
local mopar dealer and
they said for $200 they would have given me the whole
thing. We all know that
for $200 I can get a nice performance
ignition--forget the stock stuff!
Anyway, any info would help, since I
suspect that the rusted out capactitor
is what caused the coil to die in the
first place. That is why I'd hate to
put the new bosch coils in with that
old capactitor. If I need to supplement
this with pictures, just let me know
so that I can take some shots of the
coil while it's still out of my car.
Thanks in advance for the help
guys.
Riyan
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 22 Mar 2002 09:19:15
-0800
From: "Riyan Mynuddin" <
riyan@hotpop.com>
Subject: Team3S:
[supplementary info] ignition coil capacitor... spec, availability
Here
are some URLs that contain descriptions of the ignition capacitor. They
are
for other cars and situations, but they give helpful
information.
Resource 1: Building an Electronic Ignition Coil (explains
that the ignition
capacitor is not necessary and redundant in this
case)
http://www.humboldt1.com/~michael.welch/extras/ElectronicIgnition.pdf[text
version]
http://www.ibiblio.org/pub/academic/environment/alternative-energy/energy-resources/homepower-magazine/archives/7/07pg30.txt
Resource
2: Example of a BMW ignition capacitor (explains that in this
situation the
capactior is very important)
http://www.geocities.com/MotorCity/Speedway/3213/capaci.htmlSO:
The
question is, Is the capactitor important in the Stealth/3000GT, and what
is
the spec in micro farads? Should I consider removing the capacitor
all
together, since the distributorless ignition in the DOHC cars is all
solid
state anyway.
Riyan
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 22 Mar 2002 11:59:39
-0600
From: "
merritt@cedar-rapids.net" <
merritt@cedar-rapids.net>
Subject:
Team3S: Boost controller is in!
Got my Blitz BOV and DSBC boost
controller in. Cost $200 for the installation and to have the plugs regapped.
(Gapping the plugs cost more than the boost controller! Dang rear
plenum!).
They found that I have four Denso plugs and two NGK R1s in
there, so a plug change and new spark plug wires are in order soon. Also water
injection. I'll probably run at least one track event first, then take the next
step.
I took it for a test run on the 15psi setting, but my aftermarket
gauge is only saying 12 psi. Actually, it peaks over to 15 psi early on (at
about 4000 rpm), then settles down at 12 psi. Is this a function of the stock 94
turbos not being able to hold boost? Or is it a setting in the Blitz DSBC? The
shop wants me to wring it out thoroughly and report any problems, so any advice
on testing the settings would be welcome. I've never had a boost control before,
so I don't know what to look for or how to check it, other than to just run the
*&^%^$ out of it.
The only difference I can see at the moment is
that it gets up to 100+ in a real hurry, and pulls much stronger in 4th and 5th
at 120+. I might be able to see some big three digit numbers on the tracks now.
(I am no drag racer, guys).
It also pulls very strong right up to the
redline, making me wish I had another 1500 rpm, because it feels like it wants
to keep on going. Previously, it seemed to run out of steam right at the
redline.
I don't like the whoosh sound of the BOV. I can't believe that
ricers actually buy an electronic device that simulates this sound.
Fast
and Furious in Cedar Rapids, Iowa (319/365-3336 ask for Trent) did the install
and regap. Nice neat job. They installed the DSBC in the center console glove
box with Velcro. Trent likes my car so much, he put some auction bids out on two
3000GT AWD turbos so he can build himself a drag racer.
Roger: You should
be happy to know that, as part of their research into the job, they consulted
your site and followed your recommendations.
Rich/slow old
poop
94 VR4 with Blitz DSBC, BOV, K&N, Stillen, custom straight-through
catback, Supra fuel pump, Alamo intercoolers. 375 hp?
***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 22 Mar 2002 21:09:43
+0100
From: "Roger Gerl" <
roger.gerl@bluewin.ch>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Boost controller is in!
> Got my Blitz BOV and DSBC boost
controller in. Cost $200 for the
installation and to have the plugs regapped.
(Gapping the plugs cost more
than the boost controller! Dang rear
plenum!).
We only have one intake plenum ... not only a rear one
;-)
> They found that I have four Denso plugs and two NGK R1s in
there, so a
plug change and new spark plug wires are in order soon. Also
water
injection. I'll probably run at least one track event first, then take
the
next step.
The plugs are the same.
> I took it for a
test run on the 15psi setting, but my aftermarket gauge is
only saying 12
psi.
The Blitz DSBC has no boost setting !
> Actually, it peaks
over to 15 psi early on (at about 4000 rpm), then
settles down at 12 psi. Is
this a function of the stock 94 turbos not being
able to hold boost? Or is it
a setting in the Blitz DSBC? The shop wants me
to wring it out thoroughly and
report any problems, so any advice on testing
the settings would be welcome.
I've never had a boost control before, so I
don't know what to look for or
how to check it, other than to just run the
*&^%^$ out of it.
I
highly recommend you to get familiar with the boost controller soon
!
Otherwise ... but you know the story. Here is my online-manual :
http://www.rtec.ch/dsbc_manual.html>
It also pulls very strong right up to the redline, making me wish I
had
another 1500 rpm, because it feels like it wants to keep on
going.
Previously, it seemed to run out of steam right at the
redline.
What is the peak boost saying ?
> I don't like the
whoosh sound of the BOV. I can't believe that ricers
actually buy an
electronic device that simulates this sound.
You are absolutely right. I
just don't understand why you got the blitz as
the Greddy is the choice of
racers !?
> Fast and Furious in Cedar Rapids, Iowa (319/365-3336 ask
for Trent) did
the install and regap. Nice neat job. They installed the DSBC
in the center
console glove box with Velcro.
If you have room, get the
Blitz DIN panel to mount the Blitz DSBC below the
radio ... or mount it where
you can adjust the settings on the fly or to
check max boost.
>
Roger: You should be happy to know that, as part of their research into
the
job, they consulted your site and followed your recommendations.
Great
that it helps :))
Roger
93'3000GT TT
www.rtec.ch*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 22 Mar 2002 11:56:19
-0800
From: Rick Pierce <
piercera@pacbell.net>
Subject:
Team3S: Re: 3S-Racers: Boost controller is in!
Hi Rich,
I think
you are seeing the limitations of the stock 9bs - they simply cannot
hold
15lbs to Redline. I was lucky when I swapped in a JSpec to get
13gs
with it and they will hold 17lbs to redline (although I'm only running
on
the street 12-13 due to the CA 91 octane gas limitation). I notice I
hit
the rev limiter very quickly now in 1st/2nd gear (if I don't watch it)
and
since I don't want a ticket, try to hold off doing so in 3rd. I
plan on
Driving in June @ Thunderhill so I think I'll have more boost numbers
for
you then.
Yea - I cannot stand the aftermarket BOV sounds - it's
so juvenile to me
too. I think when my stock one weakens, I will simply
go with a 1st Gen DSM
one which doesn't show that tendency.
Best,
Rick
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 22 Mar 2002 12:37:21
-0800 (PST)
From: Geoff Mohler <
gemohler@www.speedtoys.com>
Subject:
Team3S: Re: 3S-Racers: Boost controller is in!
This..is gonna sound
stupid..but..
My HKS SSQV on the GT4..serves a neat purpose.
A #
of people in my run group, commented on the BOV announced my
impending
arrival "to an apex near you" as one put it.
Hey..it caused
someone to drop focus and check a mirror..I'll take that
anyday.
-
---
Geoff Mohler
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 22 Mar 2002 21:38:12
+0100
From: "Roger Gerl" <
roger.gerl@bluewin.ch>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Re: 3S-Racers: Boost controller is in!
> I think you are
seeing the limitations of the stock 9bs - they simply
cannot
> hold
15lbs to Redline. I was lucky when I swapped in a JSpec to get
13gs
> with it and they will hold 17lbs to redline (although I'm only
running on
> the street 12-13 due to the CA 91 octane gas
limitation).
This is only possible if you are overboosting like hell
until the boost
drops. The 13g produce less discharge temperatures and are
not able to hold
more boost in the upper end than the 9b (maybe 1 psi). In
fact they only
produce a better torque curve in the mid end.
Please
list your mods.
Roger
93'3000GT TT
www.rtec.ch*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 22 Mar 2002 21:34:19
+0100
From: "Roger Gerl" <
roger.gerl@bluewin.ch>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: ignition coil capacitor... spec, availability
> I
discovered that the ignition coil was out of spec
What was out of spec
?
> ignition coil from bosch for $80, but bosch gave me the three
coils only,
I wasn't aware that Bosch has any coil that fits our cars
!
> not the whole bracket. I need the whole bracket assembly because
the
> ignition coil capactitor comes as part of the assembly and mine
seems to
be
> rusted and out of spec as well.
You should get the
capacitor alone from Mitsu. It is only there to surpress
ignition pitch into
the 12V power system.
> suspect that the rusted out capactitor is what
caused the coil to die in
the
All coils died ? I doubt that the
capacitor causes the coils to die. More
the ignition transistors are the
problem then.
I think your search is a little off as we don't have a
capacitive discharge
system at all.
Also, are you sure that you
measured the right thing and that you got the
right coils (Bosch sounds very
strange to me !!). You can disconnect the
capacitor if you
want.
Roger
93'3000GT TT
www.rtec.ch*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 22 Mar 2002 16:06:07
-0500
From: Steve Burrows <
3SX@BellSouth.net>
Subject: Team3S:
3SX has own new SS Braided Brake Lines, More Cam Gears
Three things of
importance here...
1) 3SX now has a new line of stainless-steel braided
brake lines available
for all years and models 3S cars. Even better is you
can select from
stainless silver, red, blue, or black. And better than that
is they are
sale priced at only $149.95 for a set!
2) Our secure
shopping cart is now LIVE! And to promote both, the stainless
lines are the
first product offered for purchase using the shopping cart
system. But the
sale price is only good if the lines are purchased
online. Our March
Special is also available for shopping cart purchase. We
will be adding the
rest of our product line to support online purchases
over the next
week.
Visit
http://www.3sxperformance.com/brakes.asp
to get your brake lines now!
3) We still have 2 sets of RED adjustable
aluminum cam gears available at
the special price of $449
shipped.
Hope this helps some of the members here.
Thanks,
Steve
Burrows
3SX Performance Automotive
http://www.3SXPerformance.comTel:
704-563-7249
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 22 Mar 2002 12:55:16
-0800
From: Rick Pierce <
piercera@pacbell.net>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: Re: 3S-Racers: Boost controller is in!
Sorry Roger, I typed too
fast - I should have said "I've heard" they will
hold 17 psi to Redline - I
admit my mistake (I really wasn't trying to BS or
pass bad info - but I guess
I did anyway). I've only had my 92 (with BPU
and the JSpec 13Gs) up to
15psi before I turned it down to 12.5 psi - which
it does hold to redline (at
least according to my boost gauge). I do have a
supra pump and 450cc
injectors already, but haven't installed them as I'm
waiting on getting a
SAFC.
Sorry for any mis-information,
Rick
- ----- Original
Message -----
From: "Roger Gerl" <
roger.gerl@bluewin.ch>
To: <
Team3S@stealth-3000gt.st>
Sent:
Friday, March 22, 2002 12:38 PM
Subject: Re: Team3S: Re: 3S-Racers: Boost
controller is in!
> > I think you are seeing the limitations of the
stock 9bs - they simply
> cannot
> > hold 15lbs to Redline.
I was lucky when I swapped in a JSpec to get
13gs
> > with it and
they will hold 17lbs to redline (although I'm only running
on
> >
the street 12-13 due to the CA 91 octane gas limitation).
>
> This
is only possible if you are overboosting like hell until the boost
>
drops. The 13g produce less discharge temperatures and are not able
to
hold
> more boost in the upper end than the 9b (maybe 1 psi). In
fact they only
> produce a better torque curve in the mid
end.
>
> Please list your mods.
>
> Roger
>
93'3000GT TT
>
www.rtec.ch*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 22 Mar 2002 18:12:47
-0500
From: "Philip V. Glazatov" <
gphilip@umich.edu>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: 3SX has own new SS Braided Brake Lines, More Cam Gears
At 04:06
PM 3/22/2002, Steve Burrows wrote:
>3) We still have 2 sets of RED
adjustable aluminum cam gears available at
>the special price of $449
shipped.
I am wondering if the slots on those gears are intelligently
cut, so that
you cannot smash the valves against pistons if you max out the
adjustment
slots?
Philip
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
End of Team3S: 3000GT &
Stealth V1
#790
***************************************