Team3S: 3000GT & Stealth Thursday, March 21
2002 Volume 01 : Number
789
----------------------------------------------------------------------
Date:
Wed, 20 Mar 2002 12:51:38 -0800
From: Dean Benz <
dbenz@usa.net>
Subject: Re: [Team3S: How
to remove exhaust bolts/nuts]
There are also these cool things called nut
splitters which basically ram a
cold chisel through the wall of the nut and
split it. Harbor Freight has a set
of two different sizes for only $7. The
only catch is there has to be enough
space to use them.
http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/headsearch.taf?function=Search"Black,
Dave (ICT)" <
dblai@allstate.com>
wrote:
> Hi Damon,
>
> I know you said you did not want to
use a torch but I wanted to share a
> trick that worked perfectly for me -
even on the rusted on main cat bolts!
> I tried to use LiquidWrench, WD40,
etc. without any luck.
>
> I used a MAPP (methyl acetylene
propadiene) torch (about $35 or so from
> HomeDepot). This torch is
not hot enough to cut which is fine.
>
> 1. Make sure you have
adequate ventilation as the byproducts are CO and can
> be
dangerous.
> 2. Make sure you have a water spray bottle next to you just
in case the
> undercoating catches a small flame (unlikely).
> 3.
Get the flame on the torch to a bright blue flame about 1cm long.
> 4.
Place the topmost point of the blue flame at a corner notch on the nut
>
you need to remove.
> 5. Leave the torch on this "corner" rather than a
flat edge as it will more
> readily absorb the heat.
> 6. Wait until
the nut begins to turn an orange color - about 7-8 mins.
> 7. Remove and
extinguish the flame and quickly (before the nut cools) place
> your
socket wrench on it and try to loosen.
> 8. Performing this once or twice
will get the nut loosened and without
> cutting.
> 9. Obviously be
careful when handling the nut - it stays hot for a while!
>
>
HTH
>
> Dave 95VR4
>
http://www.daveblack.netDean
Benz
dbenz@usa.net***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 20 Mar 2002 16:03:25
-0500
From: "Darren Schilberg" <
dschilberg@pobox.com>
Subject: RE:
Team3S: awd-trans problems
Gary,
This is $8,000 CAN which is what
... close to the $5,000 US price we
commonly see for a new tranny?
-
--Flash!
1995 VR-4, USA
- -----Original Message-----
From:
owner-team3s@team3s.com
[mailto:owner-team3s@team3s.com] On Behalf
Of Gary Svenkeson
Sent:
Wednesday, March 20, 2002 14:27
To:
team3s@stealth-3000gt.stSubject:
Team3S: awd-trans problems
I own a 1993 awd RT Stealth. My problem
is that the output shaft
splines on the transmission and the transfer case
splines have worn out
and stripped. The Dodge dealers do not have any
service manuals with
diagrams of the transmission or listing of parts.
Their solution is to
sell me a new transmission and transfer case for
$8000. I have checked
with all the wreckers in Canada and it seems that
all transmissions have
the same problem.
. I would like advice
on parts needed to service the transmission at
100,000 km
if I'm going to open it. I would appreciate it if anyone
has
diagrams, parts lists and availability or experience with this
problem
to contact me
svenke@sk.sympatico.ca.
***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Sat, 20 Apr 2002 16:05:29
-0400
From:
pvg1@daimlerchrysler.comSubject:
Re: Team3S: awd-trans problems
Parts are available for sale I think from
Kormextrans.com. The only
transmission disassembly instructions that I know
of are posted by John
Adams at
www.vr4stealth.com. Read them but use
common sense following them.
You could change your synchros too if they
grind like synchros in most of
our cars. We tried to use John Adam's
instructions to fix Joe K's synchros.
Do not jam a screwdriver under the
bearing, use a puller to pull by the
first speed gear. You will need a
3-finger puller (not a 2-finger) with
thin fingers, or else plan on grinding
them down a little to get under
things. Notice the position of the little
square blocks inside the synchro.
They were pictured upside down on Adam's
website. I do not know if he
changed it. The engagement ring was pictured
upside down too.
I do not know much about the transfer case, but it must
be much simpler
than the transmission. Good luck.
Philip
>I
own a 1993 awd RT Stealth. My problem is that the output shaft
splines
on the transmission and the transfer case splines have worn out
and
stripped. The Dodge dealers do not have any service manuals
with
diagrams of the transmission or listing of parts. Their solution
is to
sell me a new transmission and transfer case for $8000. I have
checked
with all the wreckers in Canada and it seems that all transmissions
have
the same problem.
. I would like advice on parts needed
to service the transmission at
100,000 km if I'm going to
open it. I would appreciate it if anyone
has diagrams, parts
lists and availability or experience with this
problem to contact me
svenke@sk.sympatico.ca.
***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 20 Mar 2002 13:29:16
-0800 (PST)
From: Frank Chen <
jeep1978@yahoo.com>
Subject: Team3S:
Wheel Weights Page
Thought you guys might be interested in this
website.
It has all the pertinent information that the
road-racers would
like to know but didn't know who to
ask.
http://www.wheelweights.net/wheels.html=====
-
-Frank-
"JEEPers"
EMERGENCY EMAIL: <
2017479867@mobile.att.net>
http://www.geocities.com/Baja/Canyon/6045/***
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------------------------------
Date: Wed, 20 Mar 2002 17:18:54
-0500
From: "Jerry B." <
scorpman@optonline.net>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: switch back to valvoline?
> OK Here is something I think I
can help alittle bit with,,
> First thing i would
do is check the oil lvl. There seems to be a
problem
> with if you
actually fill the pan to the top of the dip stick marks.. this
> seems to
cause a problem with our cars. It seems that the Crank shaft will
> slap
the oil hard and fast enough to cause air bubbles to form in the oil.
>
And upon this it will send air up to your lifters and causeing them to
be
> air bound. Now here is the thing, ,the 4000 rpm trick for 15 secs wil
lnot
> help,, might make it worse cosidering thats more air and bubbles in
the
> system.
>
> I normally run my oil lvl about hte middle
mark of the OK line on the dip
> stick and that seems to cut out the
problem with my 92. but if not then
> there might be other problems.. This
is jsut a piece of advise for you to
> look at and check,, the others hae
alot better ideas,, but sometimes it
> could help by starting with the
easiest problem first and working your way
> up.
>
> hope it
helps.
> Jerry. 92 stealth e/s & 93 stealth
rt/tt
>
www.higherbeingttstealthrt.cjb.net***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 20 Mar 2002 17:43:54
-0600
From: Gary Svenkeson <
svenke@sk.sympatico.ca>
Subject:
Team3S: awd problems
Thanks for the help on the awd spline problem.
I've got the parts
coming and sould have the info I need. Thanks
again.
*** Info:
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***
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 20 Mar 2002 21:25:02
-0500
From: "Philip V. Glazatov" <
gphilip@umich.edu>
Subject: RE:
Team3S: Ignition upgrade
Sorry, I was a little behind on this thread. I
see there are many
simultaneous tests going on and everyone is anxious to
offer kits and DYI
solutions. Let me chip it too. I found out that Magnencor
is located here
in Michigan only 19.1 miles away from me (that's after I
ordered their
wires all the way from California). I could get custom wires
for the masses
after you guys figure out what the best solution is. I can
make brackets
too if those are necessary.
Philip
At 06:52 PM
3/19/2002, Jeff wrote:
>It's tested. This is the kit I've been
talking about on the 3si.org thread.
>It does fit the stock location, it
will come with custom wires that fit, and
>it will fit the stock wiring
harness. I will make a post to the lists and
>3si.org in 2-3 weeks
with final details.
>
>jeff
>'95 Mitsubishi Spyder
VR-4
>'01 Chevrolet Silverado HD Duramax
At 07:06 PM 3/19/2002,
Roger Gerl wrote:
>My aim is to
>provide a cheap and easy DIY
solution for a lot of us with the smaller
>wallet.
At 08:43 AM
3/20/2002, Furman, Russell wrote:
>If I sense enough interest I will offer
a kit for nominal
>profit, I am not interested in making sums of money
from this just put some
>gas in the car and maybe pay for an oil change
every other month.
*** Info:
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***
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 20 Mar 2002 21:47:54
-0600
From: Shane Thoms <
shanethoms@yahoo.com>
Subject:
Team3S: K&N Question
I heard that an Eclipse AirCharger (cheap/bigger
FIPK)
will fit. Anyone have the part number? Or at least
what
Year Eclipse? Also, how much modding needs to be
done?
Thanks,
Shane
*** Info:
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***
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 20 Mar 2002 22:09:34
-0600
From: "cody" <
overclck@satx.rr.com>
Subject: RE:
Team3S: K&N Question
'95-'99 Turbo Eclipse fits the same air filter
as ours... No adaptation
needed... Will need to make some sort of
bracket to hold the MAS in
place is all...
-
-Cody
*** Info:
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***
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 20 Mar 2002 23:30:24
-0500
From: "Philip V. Glazatov" <
gphilip@umich.edu>
Subject: Team3S:
Another Apexi AVC-R question
Hi Team,
My turn to ask AVC-R
questions! ;-)
My AVC-R won't learn. It just keeps the initial duty cycle
that I set and
does not try to adjust it. I made about ten WOT runs in
different gears
and... nothing.
I am connected to the RPM
signal
Start duties are at 0
Gear judge is 105 63 40 29 23
Learning is
X O O O O
Feedback speed 9 4 2 2 2
Cylinders 6 4 ->.
It does not
overshoot the target. I tried to set target boost to 0.9 and
0.7 bar and
duty cycles to 35% and 25% and it just boosts about 0.1 bar
below the target
and won't start learning. If I raise the duty cycle
manually to 70% I can
boost slightly above 1 bar. But if I set it low it
just stays there and I
cannot even get that 0.7 bar unless I raise the duty
by hand. Even if I help
it with raising the duty it still won't learn. Any
ideas?
Thanks.
Philip
'95 Red R/T TT
*** Info:
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***
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 20 Mar 2002 22:45:10
-0700
From: "Paul Prentis" <
paul@ppeengineering.com>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: exhaust
I read somewhere that you might be able to take the
signal from the O2
sensors (after the gutted cats) and put a resistor or
rheostat in series to
attenuate the signal and make it appear that the cats
are still there.
It might work, but it is just a theory.
Paul
Prentis
- ----- Original Message -----
From: "Morice, Francis" <
francis.morice@retek.com>
To:
<
pvg1@daimlerchrysler.com>;
"Team3S (E-mail)" <
Team3S@stealth-3000gt.st>
Sent:
Wednesday, March 20, 2002 12:29 PM
Subject: RE: Team3S: exhaust
> I
tried using the O2 simulators with no luck. I know Trevor James
also
> tried and he had no luck either. Stuck driving around with Check
Engine
> light on now. Luckily I have an OBII scan tool so I can
check codes to
make
> sure nothing else is going on.
>
> By
the way, got the O2 sims from casperelectronics.com.
>
>
Francis
> '96 RT/TT
*** Info:
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***
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 20 Mar 2002 22:06:35
-0800
From: "Ken Middaugh" <
kmiddaugh@ixpres.com>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: Another Apexi AVC-R question
If the "initial" duty cycle value is
too low, it won't learn. Try raising
the duty cycle by 5%-10% each run
until you see some action. Make 2nd gear
WOT runs from 2K-7K RPM.
Monitor boost and solenoid values using the graph
vs. time mode. When
you see some "intelligent" solenoid movement, you will
be learning. By
intelligent, I mean the solenoid value should start off at
90%. Then as
boost builds, it will drop down to your initial duty cycle
value. As
RPM's increase, you should see a smooth, increasing curve for
your solenoid
duty value.
Try again and report back. Good luck,
Ken
-
----- Original Message -----
From: "Philip V. Glazatov" <
gphilip@umich.edu>
To: <
team3s@team3s.com>
Sent: Wednesday,
March 20, 2002 8:30 PM
Subject: Team3S: Another Apexi AVC-R
question
> Hi Team,
>
> My turn to ask AVC-R questions!
;-)
>
> My AVC-R won't learn. It just keeps the initial duty cycle
that I set and
> does not try to adjust it. I made about ten WOT runs in
different gears
> and... nothing.
>
> I am connected to the
RPM signal
> Start duties are at 0
> Gear judge is 105 63 40 29
23
> Learning is X O O O O
> Feedback speed 9 4 2 2 2
>
Cylinders 6 4 ->.
>
> It does not overshoot the target. I tried
to set target boost to 0.9 and
> 0.7 bar and duty cycles to 35% and 25%
and it just boosts about 0.1 bar
> below the target and won't start
learning. If I raise the duty cycle
> manually to 70% I can boost slightly
above 1 bar. But if I set it low it
> just stays there and I cannot even
get that 0.7 bar unless I raise the
duty
> by hand. Even if I help it
with raising the duty it still won't learn. Any
> ideas?
Thanks.
>
> Philip
> '95 Red R/T TT
***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 20 Mar 2002 22:09:15
-0800
From: "Ken Middaugh" <
kmiddaugh@ixpres.com>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: exhaust
You can order a test pipe from
http://www.testpipe.com. It costs $45
with
shipping, and will probably ship the day you order. Mine arrived
in 3 days.
- ----- Original Message -----
From: <
DonBrando36@aol.com>
To: <
team3S@stealth-3000gt.st>
Sent:
Wednesday, March 20, 2002 10:32 AM
Subject: Team3S:
exhaust
> I went to a shop by my house and
asked them to make me a test pipe.
They
> told me that they wouldn't do
it because I will screw up all of the o2
> sensors and then my car would
run like crap. Is that true? Has anyone
put a
> test pipe
on a N/a 3000GT, what were the results after a month or so?
> What's the
diameter on a n/a borla cat back exhaust system and the stock
> exhaust
system? I had ordered one almost 2 months ago, and I'm
still
waiting
> for it, I ordered it from Stillen.
Thanks
>
> Brandon
> 93 3000GT
*** Info:
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***
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 21 Mar 2002 04:25:29
US/Central
From:
tds@brightok.netSubject: Re:
Team3S: Ham/CD antenna installation
- -----Original
Message-----
From: George Shaw
Sent: Wednesday, March 06, 2002
07:48
Any suggestions on the installation position and hardware for a
CB/Ham
2M/70cm antenna on a 3000GT with manual glass roof (UK). I
want
something
removable but solid (mag mount may work) I am happy to
drill holes if
need
be. Over to you guys.
-
---------------------------------------------------
I'm getting caught up
on email during my work
vacation. (spring break)
To
begin:
You're going to need at minimum 2 antennas to cover both
the CB
band (29 MHZ range) and 2m/70cm [440]
You can use a single dual-bander
for 2m/70cm. They are
fairly short and I've been using a mag mount dual
bander
on my Z-28 on top for several years. While I don't reach
the
same speeds as my StealthTT, I've seen 130+ without problems.
I am running
the coax straight back to the lift back and even
if the mag mount failed to
hold, the coax is held firm since
it's closed in the rubber seals of the
liftback.
I initially tried a window mount dual bander and it
was
*terrible*. I had a very difficult time tuning the SWR and
it
was still high even after adding a tuning box. The reception
was pretty
lousy too. The mag mount on top works great. The
ground and the
location makes all the difference in the world.
The only setup on a car
that has ever been any better was the
5/8 wave 2 meter setup I once had on a
Honda. The whip on a
5/8 is so long I wouldn't have one in any
location on a nice
car but a 1/4 wave 2 meter or dual bander [2 meter/70cm]
is not
bad.
A CB antenna is also going to have a longer whip
with
the coverage range around 29 MHZ versus 144-148 MHZ for 2 meter
and
440 range for 70 cm. [US freqency allocations]
If you have to use a CB
antenna and you want the very best
location, the roof is the best but unlike
the HAM bands,
the range is so limited with a CB, I don't think it
will
really make that much difference where you put it. If you're
in
the UK, I would think you would be most concerned about
the cameras
....
If you like the 20 meter band, maybe we could hook up
some
time?
- - tds
http://www.brightok.net/~tds
This message was sent using BrightNet MailMan.
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------------------------------
Date: Thu, 21 Mar 2002 07:25:24
-0500
From: "John Monnin" <
John.Monnin@3Si.zzn.com>
Subject:
Team3S: MUT II tenatively will be available at National Gathering.
If you
follow 3si threads closely you will see that I have been in
contact with the
person who bought the MUT-II tool on Ebay awhile ago.
He has connector to
hook up to a second gen car but has not tried a
first gen yet, I think the
diagnostic plug is different can anyone
clarify?
He is tentatively
comming to the National Gathering and will Make the
MUT II avialable as long
as we don't have a line of a hundred people
wanting to borrow it.
I asked him about the list members who tried to buy the MUT II off
ebay to "crack the code" so that a hybrid datalogger/pockelogger
could
be developed, with functions like knock monoitoring for second
Gens and SRS
light resetting. He replied that at the time he didn't
think it would
be possible so he bought it for himself.
He is open to the idea of
loaning it out for a limited time, if we
could convince him that it could be
examined w/o being damaged.
John Monnin
john.monnin@3si.zzn.com1991 VR-4
4-bolt main conversion
National Gathering road coarse event
coordinator
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------------------------------
Date: Thu, 21 Mar 2002 06:18:29
-0800 (PST)
From: Jeff Lucius <
stealthman92@yahoo.com>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: K&N Question
Complete details at my web page
below.
http://www.stealth316.com/2-knguide.htmJeff
Lucius,
http://www.stealth316.com/***
Info:
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------------------------------
Date: Thu, 21 Mar 2002 09:10:24
-0600
From: "Jannusch, Matt" <
mjannusch@marketwatch.com>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: MUT II tenatively will be available at National Gathe
ring.
> I asked him about the list members who tried to buy the MUT II
off
> ebay to "crack the code" so that a hybrid datalogger/pockelogger
> could be developed, with functions like knock monoitoring for second
> Gens and SRS light resetting. He replied that at the time he
didn't
> think it would be possible so he bought it for himself.
>
> He is open to the idea of loaning it out for a limited time, if we
> could convince him that it could be examined w/o being damaged.
Should be relatively easy as long as it does some form of
serial
communication - and judging by the pins in the connector and their
functions
- - that should be the case.
I'd be willing to try to figure
it out. If I can crack it, I would add the
knock redings into my LCD
virtual-gauge project.
- -Matt
'95 3000GT Spyder VR4
***
Info:
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***
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 21 Mar 2002 10:18:23
-0500
From: "Furman, Russell" <
RFurman2@MassMutual.com>
Subject:
Team3S: AVC-R Tuning Instructions for 1G/5pd cars
Ok since this has
become a sort of revolving topic I am going to post how I
set my AVC-R up to
get give close to target and consistent boost.
I will be sending out
instructions for the 6spd cars in a couple of hours
and posting both sets of
instructions on DR web board and 3SI.org.
NOTE: THESE INSTRUCTIONS ARE
NOTED FOR THE 1G/5SPD CARS
Step one, turn off learn gear for all gears
but third by changing all the 0
for each gear to X (pg
29)
Step
two, set up gear judge (this is where is gets a bit complicated) IMHO.
This
will help control boost
much better in 5th (pg 34)
Step three,
Set up your RPM NE points... Depending on your turbo size, your
NE1 point s/b
2500-3K and then go up from
there. One note if you accidentally change the
next NE point down it will
auto
down all other NE points. (pg 27)
Step Four, Set up you target boost i.e. .90kg and your base duty cycle
i.e.
52%. (pg 25) {you wanna be relatively close, like I said in
my previous
email 40% netted me a very stable .70KG on a full pull through
third}
Step 5, set up your start duty cycle for each gear. basically
what happens
here is that the AVCR takes the set up you just did for 3rd and
applies evenly across the board any increase or decrease in duty cycle %
for
that gear. So put the car in 2nd and run it through the gear,
increase the
start duty for that gear until you hit your target boost in that
gear with
out going over the target. IMHO increase by 1% if under and
decrease by 2%
if over (pg 30)
2nd and 3rd should not be that hard to
do now 4th and 5th you may wanna do
those on a empty stretch of highway
Step seven, set up Feedback Speed Setting the higher a number you put
here
the more aggressively the b/c trys to control over boost it sees. IMHO
try
these values first and work from there. 1st [2] 2nd [3] 3rd [4] 4th [4]
5th
[4] (pg28)
*** Info:
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------------------------------
Date: Thu, 21 Mar 2002 08:16:05
-0800 (PST)
From: menalteed <
menalteed@yahoo.com>
Subject:
Team3S: Keyless entry, Sun Roof
I was wondering if anyone know when the
keyless entry
came out in the Dodge Stealth and also the Sun roof.
My car
has both but the side door label says it was
built in March 1992, it was
first sold in September of
1992. I bought it in 1994 with 4000 miles on it.
The
books I've looked at say these features didn't come
out until mid
1992. I'm trying to figure out if mine
is a two bolt or a four bolt in the
engine for the
crank which the book also says came out mid or late
1992.
The Sun roof is a mitsi factory and not a after
market and the car has the
sun roof stoarage brackets
in the trunk. The keyless entry may be an after
market
extra because it comes off the positive battery
terminal in a
seperate wire, and has a fuse in a
separate little fuse holder near the
battery, there is
also some sort of horn looking thing near the
battery
that if factory isn't that good a
quality
installation.
peter 92 pearl white stealth tt
K&N
filter 13 G turbos
*** Info:
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------------------------------
Date: Thu, 21 Mar 2002 11:39:38
-0500
From: "Tom Terflinger" <
terflit@hotmail.com>
Subject:
Team3S: True or False?
"our stock turbos can only hold 12psi after
5000rpms and then 10psi to the
redline." This is from a post on one of the
3si message boards.
This seems to be the case in my car 92 vr4 w/ boost
controller etc. but is
it a fact? I had set the boost to 1 bar and it dosent
seem to hold it. I
also notice it hits higher boost when you are at low rpm
in a gear that is
too high to really be in. For instance 1 bar is easy in
5th gear around
2,500rpm but when I hit 5,000rpm in any gear the car
sputters (fuel cut?
spark blowout?) then goes back down to .5 bar (factory
setting I think).
Any ideas?
TNT3KGT
*** Info:
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***
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 21 Mar 2002 12:48:01
-0500
From: "Darren Schilberg" <
dschilberg@pobox.com>
Subject: RE:
Team3S: Keyless entry, Sun Roof
Peter,
If you have a horn near the
battery then this is an aftermarket alarm
with keyless entry install.
The only horn on out car stock looks like
the standard horn (flat, round
disc) and is closer to the front of the
car.
Not sure about the
sunroof. I have found out that my car is a 1995-1/2
model as it has the
power sunroof and no ECS and no Active Exhaust and
is that darn hybrid OBD
that nobody can figure out ... yet.
- --Flash!
1995 VR-4 mfg in
11/1994
- -----Original Message-----
From: menalteed
Sent:
Thursday, March 21, 2002 11:16
I was wondering if anyone know when
the keyless entry
came out in the Dodge Stealth and also the Sun roof.
My
car has both but the side door label says it was
built in March 1992, it was
first sold in September of
1992. I bought it in 1994 with 4000 miles on it.
The
books I've looked at say these features didn't come
out until mid
1992. I'm trying to figure out if mine
is a two bolt or a four bolt in the
engine for the
crank which the book also says came out mid or late
1992.
The Sun roof is a mitsi factory and not a after
market and the car has the
sun roof stoarage brackets
in the trunk. The keyless entry may be an after
market
extra because it comes off the positive battery
terminal in a
seperate wire, and has a fuse in a
separate little fuse holder near the
battery, there is
also some sort of horn looking thing near the
battery
that if factory isn't that good a
quality
installation.
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 21 Mar 2002 11:47:23
-0600
From: "Trevor James" <
trevor@kscable.com>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: True or False?
It's true but how much boost you'll be able to
maintain to redline is
dependent on your car's health. Mine would hold 15psi
to 5500rpm then drop
steadily to rougly 12.3psi when I hit the
revlimiter.
Trevor
96 R/T TT,
11.82@116.1, 93 Octane & Plain Radials
97
VR-4, Bone Stock!
- ----- Original Message -----
From: "Tom
Terflinger" <
terflit@hotmail.com>
To: <
Team3S@stealth-3000gt.st>
Sent:
Thursday, March 21, 2002 10:39 AM
Subject: Team3S: True or False?
>
"our stock turbos can only hold 12psi after 5000rpms and then 10psi to
the
> redline." This is from a post on one of the 3si message
boards.
>
> This seems to be the case in my car 92 vr4 w/ boost
controller etc. but is
> it a fact? I had set the boost to 1 bar and it
dosent seem to hold it. I
> also notice it hits higher boost when you are
at low rpm in a gear that is
> too high to really be in. For instance 1
bar is easy in 5th gear around
> 2,500rpm but when I hit 5,000rpm in any
gear the car sputters (fuel cut?
> spark blowout?) then goes back down to
.5 bar (factory setting I think).
>
> Any ideas?
>
TNT3KGT
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 21 Mar 2002 10:21:02
-0800 (PST)
From: Jeff Lucius <
stealthman92@yahoo.com>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: True or False?
Trevor,
Those boost-RPM numbers agree
closely with the values found in my
chart below,
http://www.stealth316.com/images/td04-09b-jlspecstock.gifwhich
uses the 9B comp flow map and VE values I interpreted from
Mitsu's engine
dyno chart.
http://www.stealth316.com/images/gto-dyno.jpgThanks!
=====================================
Tom,
The
"sputtering" could be caused by one or more of the following.
1. "Fuel
cut". Not from an inadequate supply of fuel, because the
stock injectors and
pump in good shape can supply sufficient, if not
optimal, fuel for any air
mass the stock 9Bs can flow; but from the
ECM seeing too much air flowing
through the MAS (it's thinking
over-boost) and so the ECM cuts the
injector-on signal.
2. Spark "blow out".
3. Timing retard due to
heavy detonation. The ECM will also reduce
max boost to normal wastegate
settings (6-7 psi) in response to heavy
detonation.
If you haven't
figured it out already, it can damaging to your engine
to increase the boost
beyond factory settings (either by choice or by
malfunction) without taking
precautions to protect against lean A/F
and excessive knock.
Jeff
Lucius,
http://www.stealth316.com/- -----
Original Message -----
From: "Trevor James" <
trevor@kscable.com>
To: "Tom
Terflinger" <
terflit@hotmail.com>;
<
Team3S@stealth-3000gt.st>
Sent:
Thursday, March 21, 2002 10:47 AM
Subject: Re: Team3S: True or
False?
It's true but how much boost you'll be able to maintain to redline
is
dependent on your car's health. Mine would hold 15psi to 5500rpm
then
drop steadily to rougly 12.3psi when I hit the
revlimiter.
Trevor
96 R/T TT,
11.82@116.1, 93 Octane & Plain Radials
97
VR-4, Bone Stock!
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 21 Mar 2002 14:14:54
-0500
From: "Mihai Raicu" <
mraicu@wayne.edu>
Subject: Team3S: Tein
EDFC(Electronic Damping Force Controller) Suspension
Tein has a new
32-way-cockpit-adjustable electronic suspension setup.
It's called
EDFC(Electronic Damping Force Controller).
See link.
http://www.tein.com/edfc.html I
asked them whether it fit TT/VR4 and here was their answer.
"We are not
sure that there will be enough room to mount the EDFC. The
motors have
dimensions of approximately 1 1/2" high X 1 1/2" wide."
I hope they fit,
but somehow I doubt it. Price for EDFC is $380.
- -MIHAI-
95 Red
VR4
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 21 Mar 2002 11:27:32
-0800
From: "BlackLight" <
BlackLight@Planetice.net>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: Adjustable Cam Gears at a Great Price
I just got the cam
gears so I am just double checking to see if this is
the correct / best
setting to go with? Advance intake +1 and retard
timing -3???
Again,
no AWD Dyno for testing. My car WAS mostly stock, but we're
changing that as
I type this. Mostly Intake / exhaust and driveline mods
so far.
Matt
Nelson
1994 RT TT
Computer Sales Consultant
Gateway Computers, Salem
OR
Work Phone 503-587-7113
BlackLight@Planetice.Netwww.BlackLight.5u.com-
-----Original Message-----
From:
owner-team3s@team3s.com
[mailto:owner-team3s@team3s.com] On Behalf
Of Furman, Russell
Sent:
Friday, February 08, 2002 8:08 AM
To: 'Jannusch, Matt'
Cc: 'Team
3S'
Subject: RE: Team3S: Adjustable Cam Gears at a Great Price
On our
cars I was told advance intake timing +1 deg and retard exhaust
timing -3
deg............
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Jannusch,
Matt [SMTP:mjannusch@marketwatch.com]
> Sent: Friday, February 08, 2002
11:06 AM
> To:
Team3S@team3s.com> Subject: RE:
Team3S: Adjustable Cam Gears at a Great Price
>
> > Is there a
difference between a gear and a sprocket ?
>
> Gear/Sprocket - same
thing in this case.
>
> My only question is what to set them
to. There aren't any AWD dynos
> in my local area so I'd have no
idea how to set them up.
>
> -Matt
> '95 3000GT Spyder
VR4
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 21 Mar 2002 13:29:26
-0600
From: "Jannusch, Matt" <
mjannusch@marketwatch.com>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: Adjustable Cam Gears at a Great Price
> I just got the cam
gears so I am just double checking to see
> if this is the correct / best
setting to go with? Advance
> intake +1 and retard timing -3???
That's what I keep hearing for specs... Let us know how it
feels
afterwards!
- -Matt
'95 3000GT Spyder VR4
***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 21 Mar 2002 14:32:28
-0500
From: "Darren Schilberg" <
dschilberg@pobox.com>
Subject: RE:
Team3S: Tein EDFC(Electronic Damping Force Controller)
Suspension
Mihai,
Any reason why they said it would not fit?
Does it go on top of the
strut like the ECS does? Does it fit on top of
the shock tower top or
inside it? Is Tein aware that some of our cars
have ECS?
- --Flash!
1995 VR-4 and definitely interested in this
gadget
- -----Original Message-----
From: Mihai Raicu
Sent:
Thursday, March 21, 2002 14:15
Tein has a new
32-way-cockpit-adjustable electronic suspension setup.
It's called
EDFC(Electronic Damping Force Controller).
See link.
http://www.tein.com/edfc.html I
asked them whether it fit TT/VR4 and here was their answer.
"We are not
sure that there will be enough room to mount the EDFC. The
motors have
dimensions of approximately 1 1/2" high X 1 1/2" wide."
I hope they fit,
but somehow I doubt it. Price for EDFC is $380.
***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 21 Mar 2002 14:35:35
-0500
From: "Furman, Russell" <
RFurman2@MassMutual.com>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: Tein EDFC(Electronic Damping Force Controller) Suspen
sion
The motors should have no problem being mounted on the rear even
with a rear
strut bar, the front struts however my be a different
story.....
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Darren Schilberg
[SMTP:dschilberg@pobox.com]
> Sent: Thursday, March 21, 2002 2:32
PM
> To:
Team3S@stealth-3000gt.st>
Subject: RE: Team3S: Tein EDFC(Electronic Damping Force Controller)
>
Suspension
>
> Mihai,
>
> Any reason why they said it
would not fit? Does it go on top of the
> strut like the ECS
does? Does it fit on top of the shock tower top or
> inside
it? Is Tein aware that some of our cars have ECS?
>
>
--Flash!
> 1995 VR-4 and definitely interested in this
gadget
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 21 Mar 2002 12:45:28
-0700
From: "Floyd, Jim" <
Jim_Floyd@maxtor.com>
Subject: RE:
Team3S: Adjustable Cam Gears at a Great Price
Matt,
Please let us
know what you "feel" with the cam gears.
- -----Original
Message-----
From: BlackLight [mailto:BlackLight@Planetice.net]
Sent:
Thursday, March 21, 2002 12:28 PM
To: 'Furman, Russell'; 'Jannusch,
Matt'
Cc: 'Team 3S'
Subject: RE: Team3S: Adjustable Cam Gears at a Great
Price
I just got the cam gears so I am just double checking to see if
this is
the correct / best setting to go with? Advance intake +1 and
retard
timing -3???
Again, no AWD Dyno for testing. My car WAS mostly
stock, but we're
changing that as I type this. Mostly Intake / exhaust and
driveline mods
so far.
Matt Nelson
1994 RT TT
Computer Sales
Consultant
Gateway Computers, Salem OR
Work Phone 503-587-7113
BlackLight@Planetice.Netwww.BlackLight.5u.com***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 21 Mar 2002 20:38:20
+0100
From: "Roger Gerl" <
roger.gerl@bluewin.ch>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Tein EDFC(Electronic Damping Force Controller)
Suspension
Very interesting (the controller is the size of the small
Blitz parts !)
I haven't found out if the kit fits all Tein shocks or the
HA for our cars.
Also I'd like to see how they are mounted ontop of the
shocks. Possibly fits
only with their plate.
So the function is that
the 16 "click" adjusting is controlled by system
(it's not a big deal to do
that) and this do the 4 stepper motors in the
housing. Nice idea. Now the
greatest would be to combine this with a G
sensor and let thing do the work
like our active system does . Mihai, ask
them again for physical size and
buidl a LEGO block of the same size to see
if it may
fit.
Roger
93'3000GT TT
www.rtec.ch- ----- Original Message
-----
From: "Mihai Raicu" <
mraicu@wayne.edu>
To: <
Team3S@stealth-3000gt.st>
Sent:
Thursday, March 21, 2002 8:14 PM
Subject: Team3S: Tein EDFC(Electronic
Damping Force Controller) Suspension
> Tein has a new
32-way-cockpit-adjustable electronic suspension setup.
> It's called
EDFC(Electronic Damping Force Controller).
>
> See link.
>
http://www.tein.com/edfc.html>
>
I asked them whether it fit TT/VR4 and here was their answer.
>
>
"We are not sure that there will be enough room to mount the EDFC.
The
> motors have dimensions of approximately 1 1/2" high X 1 1/2"
wide."
>
> I hope they fit, but somehow I doubt it. Price for
EDFC is $380.
>
> -MIHAI-
> 95 Red VR4
***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
End of Team3S: 3000GT &
Stealth V1
#789
***************************************
