Team3S: 3000GT & Stealth Wednesday, March 20
2002 Volume 01 : Number
788
----------------------------------------------------------------------
Date:
Tue, 19 Mar 2002 14:00:09 -0700
From: Wayne <
whietala@prodigy.net>
Subject:
Team3S: Re:
As someone else said, the entire door panel must be
removed.
The switch is screwed on from the back
At 10:47 AM 3/19/02
-0800, menalteed wrote:
>I have a very simple question about the door
trim.
>My door lock button on the drivers side is
not
>working.
>I think it only needs the contacts cleaned. There is
a
>separate cover that sits over the window switch and
>door lock
switch area. I have tried to pop it off but
>it didn't want to move
without more force then I want
>to apply, I'm not sure if this cover is
just for looks
>or if I need to remove the complete door panel to
get
>to the switch. Has anyone had this problem and could
>you tell
me if the whole door panel needs to be
>removed or if as it looks I can
get to the switch by
>poping off the little trim panel at the switch.
I
>don't want to bust it if it is just for looks and not
>removable.
The book is not clear in this area.
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 19 Mar 2002 13:03:53
-0800
From: "Gross, Erik" <
erik.gross@intel.com>
Subject:
Team3S: Need Advice - Car Went Crunch
It sucks. A
lot. And I did it, too.
It wasn't even at a Track
Event... it was at an Autocross school.
I can kinda talk about it
now.
High-speed (~60mph) slalom drill, the rear came around, and I
ended up
getting intimate with a concrete barrier at something like
10-20mph.
I'm ok, and that's the important part... or so I keep
telling myself.
I think I know what happened, but I'm still running the
replay over and
over, trying to analyze it. We'll see. @$#%$
turbo lag.
You can read about it and see pictures at:
http://www.team3s.com/~egross/DrivingStuff/BR20020317/intro.htmlIt's
under the "Not-So-Great Conclusion" link.
My insurance should cover it,
so all is not lost, but that doesn't really
make it suck less. I
can't get the friggin hood open to see what all
damage there is in the engine
bay, so that's where I could really use some
advice on what to do. I'm
hoping (praying) that the frame isn't bent and
that it can be repaired in a
way that doesn't compromise it structurally.
Waiting is no fun. I'm not
too good at it anyway.
Anybody been through this kinda stuff
before? I've never had to work with a
body shop or insurance adjusters
or assess damage before. I have a general
notion of what needs to
happen, but if anyone has
comments/suggestions/advice, I'm all
ears.
I'm taking off for the afternoon, so I'll be back in the
morning.
:(
- --Erik
'95 VR-4 that's a little beat up at the
moment
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 19 Mar 2002 15:16:29
-0600
From: "Jannusch, Matt" <
mjannusch@marketwatch.com>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: Need Advice - Car Went Crunch
> I think I know what
happened, but I'm still running the
> replay over and over, trying to
analyze it. We'll see.
> @$#%$ turbo
lag.
Hmmm... At a driving instruction event you'd think they would
tell you that
the proper (and quickest) way though a slalom is with constant
speed
(getting your entry speed right) and no on/off throttle. The
technique you
used is the easiest way to spin off-course during a
slalom. Yikes!
Sorry to hear about your car, that sucks...
Glad you are okay! A good body
shop should be able to make it almost
new again. If you ever thought about
doing a '99 front conversion this
would be a great time to do it (gotta find
the positive in this
somewhere!)
Hang in there...
- -Matt
'95 3000GT Spyder
VR4
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 19 Mar 2002 13:17:30
-0800
From: "Andrew D. Woll" <
awoll1@pacbell.net>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: Need Advice - Car Went Crunch
Nice Eric. This looks like more
than just a little rubbing compound. I have
always wondered what has to be
done when a hood can't be opened. Keep us
aprised.
Andy
- -----
Original Message -----
From: "Gross, Erik" <
erik.gross@intel.com>
To: "Team3S
List (E-mail)" <
team3S@stealth-3000gt.st>;
"3sracers List
(E-mail)" <
3sracers@speedtoys.com>
Sent:
Tuesday, March 19, 2002 1:03 PM
Subject: Team3S: Need Advice - Car Went
Crunch
> It sucks. A lot. And I
did it, too.
>
> It wasn't even at a Track Event... it was at an
Autocross school.
>
> I can kinda talk about it now.
>
>
High-speed (~60mph) slalom drill, the rear came around, and I ended
up
> getting intimate with a concrete barrier at something like
10-20mph.
>
> I'm ok, and that's the important part... or so I keep
telling myself.
>
> I think I know what happened, but I'm still
running the replay over and
> over, trying to analyze it. We'll
see. @$#%$ turbo lag.
>
> You can read about it and see
pictures at:
>
http://www.team3s.com/~egross/DrivingStuff/BR20020317/intro.html>
It's under the "Not-So-Great Conclusion" link.
>
> My insurance
should cover it, so all is not lost, but that doesn't really
> make it
suck less. I can't get the friggin hood open to see what all
>
damage there is in the engine bay, so that's where I could really use
some
> advice on what to do. I'm hoping (praying) that the frame
isn't bent and
> that it can be repaired in a way that doesn't compromise
it structurally.
> Waiting is no fun. I'm not too good at it
anyway.
>
> Anybody been through this kinda stuff before? I've
never had to work with
a
> body shop or insurance adjusters or assess
damage before. I have a
general
> notion of what needs to happen,
but if anyone has
> comments/suggestions/advice, I'm all
ears.
>
> I'm taking off for the afternoon, so I'll be back in the
morning.
>
> :(
>
> --Erik
> '95 VR-4 that's a
little beat up at the moment
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 19 Mar 2002 13:28:05
-0800
From: "ek2mfg" <
ek2mfg@foxinternet.com>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: Need Advice - Car Went Crunch
oh my god!!!!you suck...that
car was he cleanest thing in Washington
state without doubt........if you
want help with the frontend let me
know...I got a welder and a grnder
now....two tools you never thought
you would need till yesterday.....take
your check and hit 3si...stay
out of the body shops....unless you want to
spend 5g's on that....saw
the pics....bumper cover and all the fixin's,
fender,hood,lights,rear
q-panel...and oh yes....a wet sponge to wash the mud
off....be not in
dispair my fellow GTA3 friend.....all easily fixable.....I
guess in
the hood of 3500.oo painted.....good time to wreck your car...I
am
going to order an HPLV system from eastwood to paint my
car.....think
you might need one of those too :)
unless you want to
do the 99 conversion?
glad your ok erik
BTW..if its just body work
thats easy stuff....if you need
intercoolers and such...well that gets out of
control.
bobk.
- ---- Original Message ----
From:
mjannusch@marketwatch.comTo:
erik.gross@intel.com,
team3S@stealth-3000gt.stSubject:
RE: Team3S: Need Advice - Car Went Crunch
Date: Tue, 19 Mar 2002 15:16:29
-0600
>> I think I know what happened, but I'm still running the
>> replay over and over, trying to analyze it. We'll see.
>> @$#%$ turbo lag.
>
>Hmmm... At a driving
instruction event you'd think they would tell
>you that
>the proper
(and quickest) way though a slalom is with constant speed
>(getting your
entry speed right) and no on/off throttle. The
>technique
you
>used is the easiest way to spin off-course during a slalom.
Yikes!
>
>Sorry to hear about your car, that sucks... Glad you
are okay! A
>good body
>shop should be able to make it almost
new again. If you ever
>thought about
>doing a '99 front
conversion this would be a great time to do it
>(gotta find
>the
positive in this somewhere!)
>
>Hang in
there...
>
>-Matt
>'95 3000GT Spyder VR4
***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 19 Mar 2002 16:33:10
-0500
From: "Furman, Russell" <
RFurman2@MassMutual.com>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: Need Advice - Car Went Crunch
He may not have that option, in
CT if you have a loan on the car the bank
gets the check and you have to deal
with the bank in fixing it......... If
you own the car the insurance co
cuts the check to you.
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 19 Mar 2002 13:46:23
-0800
From: Michael Gerhard <
gerhard1@llnl.gov>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: Need Advice - Car Went Crunch
>Anybody been through this kinda
stuff before? I've never had to work with a
>body shop or insurance
adjusters or assess damage before. I have a general
>notion of what
needs to happen, but if anyone has
>comments/suggestions/advice, I'm all
ears.
I have yet to need to take my '91 VR4 to the shop. However, I have
had a
lot of experience with dealing with insurance companies and repair
shops in
California. Hopefully the laws are similar in WA.
First of
all, you probably can pick your own shop. I'd really look into
this. The
insurance companies will want to send you to shops they
recommend. These
shops, in my experience, may be cut rate and do a poor
job. However, they
will guarantee their work (if you are smart enough to
figure out they
screwed up). Ask around for the best shops. The shop I go
to here in the Bay
Area is amazing. They do a lot of re-repairs, fixing
other shops screw
ups.
Second, after you have a shop, take the car to the shop and skip
going to
the insurance company adjuster. The adjuster will attempt to
determine all
your car needs by doing a walk around and then consult his
"book". You are
right in wondering what damage there is were you cannot see.
After your car
is at the body shop, call your insurance company and ask them
to authorize
the shop to dismantle the car enough to identify all the damage
(the have
to do this anyway to make the repairs). After the shop has removed
enough
parts to know the extent of the damage, have the adjuster come to the
shop
and negotiate with the body shop as to the repairs.
Third, if
the value of your car (you set the value based on want ads, etc)
exceeds the
repair estimate by 15-20 percent, you are in fat city. The
insurance company
will not repair up to the value of the car because if
they were to total the
car and give you the full value, they will sell the
car to a salvage shop.
Thus, the difference between full value and the
salvage value is the repair
limit. This sucks because there are salvage
shops which will by a car from
an insurance company for 3-5 times the true
salvage value, thus inflating
the salvage value and reducing the repair
value. These salvage shops can do
this because they do a shoddy repair on
the car and resell it,
probably hiding the truth about the salvage title.
If the repair
value allows, get all NEW factory parts. I had a '84 Toyota
Landcruiser
wagon which was hit from the side on the left front wheel. The
new parts
repair cost estimate was close to $13,000. The value of the truck
was about
$9,200. In order to avoid salvage, I authorized used and after
market parts.
The biggest savings was getting a used hood (mint) with all
the hinge
hardware, and a left front fender (almost mint) with all the
inner fender
stuff (some smog hardware). A few other parts as after market
were
acceptable. I was very pleased with the repair.
Finally, take control of
your repair. It is your baby. Back to finding a
shop. A good shop is one who
is your advocate. Shops which have an
arrangement with the insurance company
(will guarantee their work) are
other than your advocate, they are really in
the pocket of the insurance
company.
As a second final note: with my
Landcruiser repair, it was a big deal
getting a good value on the vehicle.
My insurance company took forever and
I just decided that I would out last
them. After about 6 weeks, I had yet
to get a firm value from them (the only
values they had were for other than
similar cars and were about $2000 less
than what I thought a true value
was). I finally back calculated the value I
needed to allow them to
authorize my repair. In this calculation they want
to subtract out the
grossly inflated salvage value. However, they must also
add back in the
title costs and taxes as if you had to purchase a
replacement car. They are
reluctant to tell you about the add
backs.
It is possible to get a good repair and work with the insurance
company.
The main thing is to question everything and take control of the
process.
If you have another car to drive so the pressure is reduced as to
how
quickly the repairs are performed, you have some leverage over the
insurance company (normally they have the leverage over you because you
need the car).
-
--------------------------------------------------------------
Michael A.
Gerhard 1991 Mitsubishi 3000GT VR4 Pearl
White
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 19 Mar 2002 15:51:01
-0600
From: "Willis, Charles E." <
cewillis@TexasChildrensHospital.org>
Subject:
Team3S: RE: 3S-Racers: Need Advice - Car Went Crunch
Erik,
You
have all our sympathies!
What will happen is that the adjuster will look
at the car and estimate the
cost to repair. Then, he compares it to the
replacement cost of the car.
If the repair estimate is greater than the cost
to repair, the car is
"totalled". At this point you have a couple of
options - the leinholder
gets paid off first, then you get a check for the
excess, or sometimes you
can get a "contract repair" where a body shop agrees
to repair the car for
the replacement cost, and you keep paying the old car
note every month. I
elected to do this once, but the car was never the
same again.
Sometimes, the insurance company will let you buy the
totalled car from them
for salvage value, then you can repair it yourself. In
this case, you may
have some re-registration hoops to jump through to get the
car back on the
road. You still have to pay off the leinholder first.
they have little
interest in continuing a loan on a car that can't be
repossessed.
Who is your insurance company?
BTW you are likely to
get screwed on insurance rates for the next three
years because of an "at
fault" accident, even though you weren't ticketed.
Chuck
***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 19 Mar 2002 15:53:53
-0600
From: "Willis, Charles E." <
cewillis@TexasChildrensHospital.org>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: Need Advice - Car Went Crunch
Michael,
your reply was
much more thorough and helpful than mine! kudos!
Chuck
Willis
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 19 Mar 2002 17:06:57
-0500
From: "Ioan Raicu" <
iraicu@cs.wayne.edu>
Subject: RE:
Team3S: EGT probe installation
Just like Craig Hodges said, I am seeing
lower temps on the outside
(close to the wall of the manifold) than in the
inside (close to the
middle of the manifold). To me this seems almost
normal since gasses
are in contact with the metal form the manifold, and
since the
temperature on the outside of the manifold is much cooler than
inside,
the gasses are also cooling down a bit. If this is true, then
the EGT
temps don't only vary by location of the placement, but also on
the
probe size, and the depth of the inserted probe. How could we
really
have a good basis on safe/dangerous numbers unless the install
is
identical to the one we are comparing our numbers with...
John
Raicu
94 Yellow TT
- -----Original Message-----
From: Damon Rachell
[mailto:damonr@mefas.com]
Sent: Monday, March 18, 2002 8:00 PM
To:
iraicu@cs.wayne.eduCc:
Team3S@stealth-3000gt.stSubject:
Re: Team3S: EGT probe installation
Fluid dynamics says that the closer
the center of a tube, the higher the
flow rate. Applying this to
the manifold would indicate that at the
edge, the velocity of the exhaust is
dramatically slower. Therefore,
the exhaust at the walls has much more
time to radiate it's heat.
Ideally, the probe should be at the center of the
manifold.
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 19 Mar 2002 14:28:37
-0800
From: "Gross, Erik" <
erik.gross@intel.com>
Subject: RE:
Team3S: Need Advice - Car Went Crunch
Thanks for all the support, guys -
it means a lot.
To answer a few questions...
I own the car, so
there's no bank involvement, no leinholder, and less
complication... I
hope. I have a loan... just that the car isn't the
collateral - they'd
just take my home :-)
My insurance company (USAA CIC) has told me
on the phone that I'm covered at
non-competitive events, and I read the fine
print in my policy a while ago
and that's how I interpreted it as well.
The claims person asked me if I
was racing, and I said, "Absolutely
Not." and that's 100% the truth.
And just last October, I had
finally accrued the "Longevity Credit" for 6
years with no accidents, no
tickets, no violations, no nothing. They said
that if/when I do have a
fender-bender or ticket, they'll use the "Credit"
to offset the premium
increase and not end up increasing my rates... that'd
be nice, but I
bent both fenders :(
The big things I'm concerned about are:
* Front
subframe
* Driver's rear suspension/frame (bent wheel)
Stuff that
will/may have to be replaced
* Oil Cooler
* Driver's intercooler
*
Power steering lines (pump?) - fluid everywhere
* Radiator mounts (radiator?)
- no coolant leaks
* Front active aero
* Both front fenders
* Hood
*
Front Bumper/Mounts
* Front Fascia
* 1 Front Headlight Assy
*
Windshield
* Both airbags and ABS sensors
* 1 wheel ('94 VR-4)
* ABS
controller (idiot light's on)
* Alternator Belt (alternator?) - no charging
system
* Misc bolts, brackets, screws, fasteners, etc.
Man, that list
gets long... but the engine runs, the wheels turn and steer,
and the tranny
shifts at this point, so a few things still have to work.
I'm hoping that
I don't need to take the off-road equipment off the car
since I was truly
"off-road" when it happened (private raceway). Maybe I'll
take the
downpipe off, though.
As for the incident:
* Technique... I was
told that the fastest way through a slalom is to
get into a rhythm of:
constant speed, lift slightly, turn in, rotate,
throttle, stop rotating,
straight acceleration, constant speed, repeat in
opposite direction.
Had been doing that all day without incident.
* Speed: I was running out
of revs specifically at the ends of the
slalom, where I'd be very close to
redline and I thought I could accelerate
out of the last turn of the slalom
better if I had some more revs available.
That's why I tried 3rd, in addition
to the "smoothness" factor.
* Experience: I had just spent the last
80 minutes at the lower-speed
slalom (variable length between cones, too)
where I experimented a LOT with
throttle, speed, apexing, rhythms, etc.
I had gotten the car sideways
several times around 30-45mph and recovered
every time. Had been on the
track since 9AM (wrecked at 4PM) and hadn't
spun it once. This was my
second school and I've been to 3 competitions
and 1 track day. This was my
4th run of the day at the high-speed
slalom station and the 2nd run (up and
back = 1 run) in 3rd gear. I was
actually taking it more conservatively on
the run in question and I don't
think I was exceeding 60mph. BTW, as this
was a higher-speed station
(actually THE highest), I wasn't "experimenting"
too much and there was
definitely no intentional sideways stuff.
I plan to be VERY involved with
the repair of my car. You're right- this IS
my baby, and I've put SO
much time and energy into her. I'd sit in the shop
and watch/help if
they'd let me :-) Heck, if I had the equipment and the
knowledge, I'd
do it all myself. If it's feasible, I have half a mind to
try to get
the insurance company to cut me a check, take it to a body shop
to remove the
mangled parts and straighten anything that needs it, tow it
home, and put in
all the new parts myself. I've done just about everything
else on that
car :-) I have a Corolla to get me to the grocery store, so I
can have
the VR-4 disassembled for a few weeks/months if that's the best way
to do
it. "We'll see" is the phrase of the day.
I'm sure you'll be
hearing more from me, and I'll keep anything that's
non-technical off the
Team3s list. I assume/hope repairing damage from
enjoying our cars is
technical in nature...
- --Erik
"I bought it to enjoy it, and enjoy it
I did. And I will again... hopefully
with the same
car."
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 19 Mar 2002 14:42:41
-0800 (PST)
From: Casey Rayman <
theturbodog@yahoo.com>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Ignition upgrade (warning and options)
They are the GM DIS
type coils. I have datalogged the car, but Im
not sure what you might
hope to find about the coils from the
datalogs. It does idle smoother,
throttle response is crisper, and I
can run more boost with a wider gap than
I could with the stock coil
packs which was my main goal. I was limited
to about 15lbs at .028
gap prior to the coil upgrade.
Casey
-
--- Roger Gerl <
roger.gerl@bluewin.ch> wrote:
>
Great Casey, are these the Motorcycle coils or the GM ones ? Dunno
> what
car
> you have but have you have the chance to datalog it ?
>
> Thanks
> Roger
> 93'3000GT TT
>
www.rtec.ch*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 19 Mar 2002 17:52:16
-0500
From: "Furman, Russell" <
RFurman2@MassMutual.com>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: Ignition upgrade (warning and options)
Casey, how many miles
on your stock coils? Reason I ask my stockers have
122K and I can not
run over 10 PSI (stock turbos) with a.032 gap. That is
what got me
moving when Roger brought to light an better option (IMHO) over
what was
currently suggested. BTW I will be ordering from Summit on
Thursday so
I should have results for the list in about 10 days or so :)
Before
anyone says anything the plugs + wires in my car have less than 10K
on them
and I checked all my connections + regapped the plugs over this past
weekend
so that rules those possibilities out.
As a refresher I will be running
those Buick GN coils WITH OUT an ignition
amplifier for now...... Want
to get one later but possible location/career
change in the works for me so I
need to keep my self mostly liquid at this
time.
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 19 Mar 2002 15:19:39
-0800
From: Damon Rachell <
damonr@mefas.com>
Subject: Re: Team3S:
Ignition upgrade (warning and options)
Are the GN coils a direct
replacement for the stockers? Do the existing
wires (with new harness)
plug into the stockers? Has anyone outlined
thie install yet?
I'd be very interested of the procedure, as I'm sure
others are
too.
Thanks
Damon
Furman, Russell wrote:
> Casey, how
many miles on your stock coils? Reason I ask my stockers have
> 122K
and I can not run over 10 PSI (stock turbos) with a.032 gap. That
is
> what got me moving when Roger brought to light an better option
(IMHO) over
> what was currently suggested. BTW I will be ordering
from Summit on
> Thursday so I should have results for the list in about
10 days or so :)
>
> Before anyone says anything the plugs +
wires in my car have less than 10K
> on them and I checked all my
connections + regapped the plugs over this past
> weekend so that rules
those possibilities out.
>
> As a refresher I will be running those
Buick GN coils WITH OUT an ignition
> amplifier for now...... Want
to get one later but possible location/career
> change in the works for me
so I need to keep my self mostly liquid at this
> time.
***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 20 Mar 2002 00:13:24
+0100
From: "Roger Gerl" <
roger.gerl@bluewin.ch>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Ignition upgrade
> They are the GM DIS type coils. I
have datalogged the car, but Im
> not sure what you might hope to find
about the coils from the
> datalogs. It does idle smoother, throttle
response is crisper, and I
> can run more boost with a wider gap than I
could with the stock coil
> packs which was my main goal. I was
limited to about 15lbs at .028
> gap prior to the coil upgrade.
I'd
like to see before and after logs. I'm looking for different timing,
of
course less knock and especially rpm in the 5500 and up area.
The
smoother idle is also achieved with the MSD DIS box due to the double
spark
below 3000 rpm but the GN coils from Magnavox may be a cheap and
pretty easy
solution for older coils.
Russ, also the wires must be changed, the stock
boots don't fit the posts of
the new coil pack.
Roger
93'3000GT
TT
www.rtec.ch*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 20 Mar 2002 00:26:44
+0100
From: "Roger Gerl" <
roger.gerl@bluewin.ch>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Ignition upgrade
Damn, I knew it, now everybody wants it
until it is tested !!!
Ok, keep your hands off because :
- - it
doesn't fit the stock location
- - it doesn't fit the stock ignition
wires
- - it doesn't fit the stock wiring harness
Only get it if you
are able to make adapters and new wires with custom
boots.
Again, the
pack is not yet tested and has not been installed. I have it on
order since
more than a week now as the part was not available for a long
time.
If
the results are good I'm sure that a mounting bracket with already
attached
harness adapters will be available. Maybe even a set. I'm very sure
than some
"shops" will get the parts and put them together as their
performance kit.
Well, I only hope it will be a good solution and for sure
you can get the
parts cheap at Summit and some will provide an installation
procedure so
people may be able to do it by themself without the
overhead
costs.
Roger
93'3000GT TT
www.rtec.ch- ----- Original Message
-----
From: "Damon Rachell" <
damonr@mefas.com>
To: "Furman, Russell"
<
RFurman2@MassMutual.com>
Cc:
"'Casey Rayman'" <
theturbodog@yahoo.com>; "'Team
3S'"
<
Team3S@stealth-3000gt.st>
Sent:
Wednesday, March 20, 2002 12:19 AM
Subject: Re: Team3S: Ignition upgrade
(warning and options)
> Are the GN coils a direct replacement for the
stockers? Do the existing
> wires (with new harness) plug into the
stockers? Has anyone outlined
> thie install yet? I'd be very
interested of the procedure, as I'm sure
> others are too.
>
>
Thanks
> Damon
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 19 Mar 2002 17:52:00
-0600
From: "Jeff" <
spydervr4@attbi.com>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: Ignition upgrade
It's tested. This is the kit I've been
talking about on the 3si.org thread.
It does fit the stock location, it will
come with custom wires that fit, and
it will fit the stock wiring
harness. I will make a post to the lists and
3si.org in 2-3 weeks with
final details.
jeff
'95 Mitsubishi Spyder VR-4
'01 Chevrolet
Silverado HD Duramax
- ----- Original Message -----
From: "Roger Gerl"
<
roger.gerl@bluewin.ch>
To:
"'Team 3S'" <
Team3S@stealth-3000gt.st>
Sent:
Tuesday, March 19, 2002 5:26 PM
Subject: Re: Team3S: Ignition
upgrade
> Damn, I knew it, now everybody wants it until it is tested
!!!
>
> Ok, keep your hands off because :
>
> - it
doesn't fit the stock location
> - it doesn't fit the stock ignition
wires
> - it doesn't fit the stock wiring harness
>
> Only get
it if you are able to make adapters and new wires with custom
>
boots.
>
> Again, the pack is not yet tested and has not been
installed. I have it on
> order since more than a week now as the part was
not available for a long
> time.
>
> If the results are good
I'm sure that a mounting bracket with already
> attached harness adapters
will be available. Maybe even a set. I'm very
sure
> than some "shops"
will get the parts and put them together as their
> performance kit. Well,
I only hope it will be a good solution and for sure
> you can get the
parts cheap at Summit and some will provide an
installation
> procedure
so people may be able to do it by themself without the overhead
>
costs.
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 19 Mar 2002 19:00:35
-0500
From: "Furman, Russell" <
RFurman2@MassMutual.com>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: Ignition upgrade
Jeff does this kit primary resistance fall
within OEM operating specs?
Reason I ask the original Accel motorcycle coil
kit has far too much
resistance and hence could not be run without an
ignition amplifier. (you
could run it with out one but then you are solving
one problem but putting
unnecessary stress on another component and may cause
that component to
fail..... the factory transistors)
Roger's most
recent 2 suggestions both fall within or below the OEM
tolerances but have
their draw backs..... (need custom plug wires, need
custom wiring harness,
and will not fit in stock location.) The first 2
problems I do not
doubt Roger on, but the third could be over come with a
little patience and
ingenuity both of which I have plenty of, never mind the
general lack of a
social life currently.
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Jeff
[SMTP:spydervr4@attbi.com]
> Sent: Tuesday, March 19, 2002 6:52 PM
>
To: Team3S
> Subject: Re: Team3S: Ignition upgrade
>
> It's
tested. This is the kit I've been talking about on the 3si.org
>
thread.
> It does fit the stock location, it will come with custom wires
that fit,
> and
> it will fit the stock wiring harness. I will
make a post to the lists and
> 3si.org in 2-3 weeks with final
details.
>
> jeff
> '95 Mitsubishi Spyder VR-4
> '01
Chevrolet Silverado HD Duramax
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 19 Mar 2002 16:04:08
-0800
From: Yoss <
yoss@aracnet.com>
Subject: Re: Team3S:
Need Advice - Car Went Crunch
On Tue, Mar 19, 2002, Jannusch, Matt <
mjannusch@marketwatch.com>
wrote:
> > I think I know what happened, but I'm still running the
> > replay over and over, trying to analyze it. We'll see.
> > @$#%$ turbo lag.
>
> Hmmm... At a driving
instruction event you'd think they would tell you that
> the proper (and
quickest) way though a slalom is with constant speed
> (getting your entry
speed right) and no on/off throttle. The technique you
> used is the
easiest way to spin off-course during a slalom. Yikes!
One thing
that bothered me from the pictures is the location of the cones.
They are so
darn close to the concrete wall, when there is so much real estate
on the
other side, away from the wall. The cones weren't even placed on
the
center(dotted lines) of that road!
- --
*******************************************************************************
What
is man but that lofty spirit -- that sense of enterprise.
-- Kirk, "I, Mudd," stardate
4513.3.
*******************************************************************************
***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 20 Mar 2002 01:06:39
+0100
From: "Roger Gerl" <
roger.gerl@bluewin.ch>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Ignition upgrade
Jeff you are speaking of a different kit
with the single coils and not what
I'm testing right now.
Kits are
always expensive as a thrird party is doing some work. My aim is to
provide a
cheap and easy DIY solution for a lot of us with the
smaller
wallet.
Roger
93'3000GT TT
www.rtec.ch- ----- Original Message
-----
From: "Jeff" <
spydervr4@attbi.com>
To: "Team3S"
<
Team3S@stealth-3000gt.st>
Sent:
Wednesday, March 20, 2002 12:52 AM
Subject: Re: Team3S: Ignition
upgrade
> It's tested. This is the kit I've been talking about
on the 3si.org
thread.
> It does fit the stock location, it will come
with custom wires that fit,
and
> it will fit the stock wiring
harness. I will make a post to the lists and
> 3si.org in 2-3 weeks
with final details.
>
> jeff
> '95 Mitsubishi Spyder
VR-4
> '01 Chevrolet Silverado HD Duramax
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 20 Mar 2002 01:23:53
+0100
From: "Roger Gerl" <
roger.gerl@bluewin.ch>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Ignition upgrade
I don't want to answer questions adressed to
Jeff here, he is able to tell
you the stock specs and those of the coils. The
coils I'm using are within
the exact same specs like the stock one so they
can even be used with stock
ignition wires (with another boot for the
coils).
Russ, everything is possible to attach with some patience. But
bear in mind
that we are not all EE's and some even will go to the dealer and
say please
install it even if it is a somewhat easy p&p kit.
Fact
is that the coils Jeff is speaking about do have risen posts as also
the ones
do that I'm using. Therefore other wires or boots must be used. If
you can
cut the wires and attach new boots, then one step is done :) Next is
the
connections of the primary windings to the coils. Something must be done
to
connect them to the four wires on the stock harness. Some may cut the
stock
connector off (ouch) and solder them to the pins of the coils. The
coils Jeff
is speaking about can be adapted with a socket that has 4 wires
comming out.
These wires then can lead to a socket that directly connects
into the stock
harness. If you can do this by yourself then the last step is
a breeze.
Remove the stock ignition plate with the coils attached and create
a mounting
plate for the coils and the adapters. Voilą, that's it.
If ever a kit
will be available it of course will be a plug&play part. But
today the
parts alone are not.
I do have now three coil upgrades around, the
motorcycle coils together with
the DIS-4 box, the large coils like Jeff is
using (either Accel or MSD have
them) or the pack I'm using. I will make at
least the last ones
interchangeable so back-to-back tests may give the right
results.
Roger
93'3000GT TT
www.rtec.ch> Jeff does this kit primary
resistance fall within OEM operating specs?
> Reason I ask the original
Accel motorcycle coil kit has far too much
> resistance and hence could
not be run without an ignition amplifier. (you
> could run it with out one
but then you are solving one problem but putting
> unnecessary stress on
another component and may cause that component to
> fail..... the factory
transistors)
>
> Roger's most recent 2 suggestions both fall within
or below the OEM
> tolerances but have their draw backs..... (need custom
plug wires, need
> custom wiring harness, and will not fit in stock
location.) The first 2
> problems I do not doubt Roger on, but the
third could be over come with a
> little patience and ingenuity both of
which I have plenty of, never mind
the
> general lack of a social life
currently.
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 19 Mar 2002 22:52:58
-0500
From:
griz600cc@comcast.netSubject:
Team3S: Tire Sizing with Eibachs
I am looking to add the g-Force T/A KDW
tires to my 93 Stealth. I just had
the car lowered with Eibachs (1.5 front,
1.3 rear), KYB GR-2 struts/shocks.
I want to go with the 18" SSR GT1 rims.
What tire size will clear the
strut
towers:
245-45-18
245-40-18
245-35-18
Thanks.
***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 20 Mar 2002 04:18:56
+0000
From: "Andrei Kryjevski" <
abk_4@hotmail.com>
Subject: Team3S:
switch back to valvoline?
hello:
ever since i had owned the car
(for the last 15K miles) the it was on
10W-30 valvoline full synthetic oil.
the car is 92 stealth r/t with 109K.
the previous owner mentioned that he
had used valvoline, too. it'd have some
lifter tick VERY
occasionally.
several days ago the oil was changed to mobil 1 10W-30 full
synthetic.
(walmart was out of valvoline. stupid, eh?) anyway, now it ticks
all the
time. revving the engine at 4000 rpm for 15 seconds does not seem to
help.
assuming the tick is caused by the brand name change should i
switch back to
valvoline? a.s.a.p.? starting next oil change?
sorry
to bother everybody with this issue again. couldn't find a direct
answer in
FAQ, search.
thank you.
andrei.
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 19 Mar 2002 23:55:49
-0500
From: "Darren Schilberg" <
dschilberg@pobox.com>
Subject: RE:
Team3S: Tire Sizing with Eibachs
What model Stealth? If it is a TT
then you should stick with stock tire
size (for a second gen VR-4 it is
245/40/18) as this will keep the
speedo/tach/etc. most accurate. If
that gives you problems then start
adjusting with spacers,
etc.
TireRack should be able to inform you about a certain setup but I
don't
know if they have info on items they do not sell. If you buy
Ground
Control items then they may be able to help better.
I thought I
had seen tons of people using lowering springs like this
with GAB or similar
struts/shocks who maintained the stock tire.
- --Flash!
1995 VR-4
stock suspension so stock 245/40/18 tires still
- -----Original
Message-----
From:
griz600cc@comcast.netSent: Tuesday,
March 19, 2002 22:53
I am looking to add the g-Force T/A KDW tires
to my 93 Stealth. I just
had
the car lowered with Eibachs (1.5 front, 1.3
rear), KYB GR-2
struts/shocks.
I want to go with the 18" SSR GT1 rims.
What tire size will clear
the
strut
towers:
245-45-18
245-40-18
245-35-18
Thanks.
***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 20 Mar 2002 00:00:03
-0500
From: "Darren Schilberg" <
dschilberg@pobox.com>
Subject: RE:
Team3S: switch back to valvoline?
Andrei,
Was there a reason your
car HAD to get an oil change that instant or
that day and not wait another
week for WalMart to get a shipment of
Valvoline or a trip to another car
store for some Valvoline? Sure it
might be $8 per quart instead of $4
but it would keep the name brand the
same.
Also, sometimes it is not
the oil but other stuff that makes it tick.
You said you did the revving
trick (sometimes gets rid of it) but maybe
it is the old oil that is keeping
everything well-lubricated (flowing
slower) instead of new oil flowing real
well and not staying on parts as
well. Beats me. I switched to
Amsoil (thanks, DesertFox) and have no
tick now. I didn't do it
scientifically either since I changed oil,
filter, and brand all at the same
time as well as putting in a "chaser"
before the oil change to get out some
old sludge. Regardless ... it
runs quiet now.
- --Flash!
1995
VR-4 with Amsoil synthetic and no tick
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 19 Mar 2002 23:15:18
-0600
From: "Jannusch, Matt" <
mjannusch@marketwatch.com>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: switch back to valvoline?
Darren said:
> I didn't
do it scientifically either since I changed oil,
> filter, and brand all
at the same time as well as putting
> in a "chaser" before the oil change
to get out some old
> sludge. Regardless ... it runs quiet
now.
Ummmm, what's a "chaser" and why would you put it in your
engine?
- -Matt
'95 3000GT Spyder VR4
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 19 Mar 2002 23:26:07
-0600
From: "cody" <
overclck@satx.rr.com>
Subject: RE:
Team3S: Tire Sizing with Eibachs
245-40-18 is what you want...
It
is the factory size, and is almost identical in diameter to what was
on the
car...
- -Cody
- -----Original Message-----
From:
owner-team3s@team3s.com
[mailto:owner-team3s@team3s.com] On Behalf
Of Darren Schilberg
Sent:
Tuesday, March 19, 2002 10:56 PM
To:
Team3S@stealth-3000gt.stSubject:
RE: Team3S: Tire Sizing with Eibachs
What model Stealth? If it is a
TT then you should stick with stock tire
size (for a second gen VR-4 it is
245/40/18) as this will keep the
speedo/tach/etc. most accurate. If
that gives you problems then start
adjusting with spacers,
etc.
TireRack should be able to inform you about a certain setup but I
don't
know if they have info on items they do not sell. If you buy
Ground
Control items then they may be able to help better.
I thought I
had seen tons of people using lowering springs like this
with GAB or similar
struts/shocks who maintained the stock tire.
- --Flash!
1995 VR-4
stock suspension so stock 245/40/18 tires still
- -----Original
Message-----
From:
griz600cc@comcast.netSent: Tuesday,
March 19, 2002 22:53
I am looking to add the g-Force T/A KDW tires
to my 93 Stealth. I just
had
the car lowered with Eibachs (1.5 front, 1.3
rear), KYB GR-2
struts/shocks.
I want to go with the 18" SSR GT1 rims.
What tire size will clear
the
strut
towers:
245-45-18
245-40-18
245-35-18
Thanks.
***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 20 Mar 2002 00:32:22
-0500
From: "Darren Schilberg" <
dschilberg@pobox.com>
Subject: RE:
Team3S: switch back to valvoline?
Sorry ... a pre-cleaner I
guess.
Before changing to Amsoil I put in a cleaner that you run for
about 15
minutes (but not while driving since I guess it really cleans out
the
gunk) and helps to clear out more sludge than just warming up the
oil
and draining it.
Recommended by Amsoil but so is lather, rinse,
repeat by Shampoo makers.
I think it might have been this Engine flush by
them,
www.amsoil.com/products/aef.html.
"AMSOIL
Fast Acting Engine Flush is made from a carefully selected blend
of solvents
and special cleaning agents that dissolve and disperse
harmful deposits
formed in the crankcase, cylinder walls, pistons and
rings of an internal
combustion engine. When used as directed, it
cleans and restores
operating efficiency to valves, valve lifters,
rocker arms, and pistons for
improved horsepower, fuel economy, and
performance. Use before changing
oil."
- --Flash!
- -----Original Message-----
From: Jannusch,
Matt
Sent: Wednesday, March 20, 2002 00:15
Ummmm, what's a
"chaser" and why would you put it in your engine?
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 19 Mar 2002 21:55:27
-0800
From: "Robert Koch" <
eK2mfg@foxinternet.com>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: Need Advice - Car Went Crunch
Erik,
I may know somebody
who can hook you up on all those parts on your big
list.....settle your
nerves and look at all your options.....then call me or
email me for some
info...maybe the body shop can do the hard stuff but
getting parts 1/2 off
and in good condition could pay for the next
upgrade...on a cosmetic fix like
yours I doubt any body shop would car where
the parts needed came from as
long as you don't need asbestos gloves to
handle it. I know a guy in Lynnwood
with like 4 of these cars in his
yard...you'll drool at what he throws
away....very collective one his parts
and I literally trip over half the
stuff in your list.
hit the ps2 and practice those cones for free next
time.
bobk.
93r/t
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 20 Mar 2002 00:52:58
-0800
From: "Bob Forrest" <
bf@bobforrest.com>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: Tire Sizing with Eibachs
- ----- Original Message -----
From:
<
griz600cc@comcast.net>
>
I am looking to add the g-Force T/A KDW tires to my 93 Stealth. I just
had
the car lowered with Eibachs (1.5 front, 1.3 rear), KYB GR-2
struts/shocks.
I want to go with the 18" SSR GT1 rims. What tire size will
clear the strut
towers?:
> 245-45-18 >
245-40-18 > 245-35-18
> Thanks.
-
---------------------------->
I don't have KYBs, but... I'm
running the SSR GT-1's with 245/40 and
Eibachs (1.3", F&R) - no
problem. (Ann Koch has the same). I used to run a
similar wheel,
(Gewalt Type-S) with 265/35R18, and again, no clearance
problems. You
should refer to Cody's excellent "Plus Sizing" article in our
FAQ pages to
learn the math involved with various tire sizes, and how to
compare tire
diameters.
www.Team3S.com/FAQplussizing.htm.
(Tire Rack gets
even more technical, if you're into it...).
Although
245/40 is stock in 18", a number of other sizes will have almost
the same (or
less) "rolling diameter", so there won't be any issues with
clearance with
any of the following:
245/40R18
(RD=25.72")
245/35R18 (RD=24.75")
255/35R18
(RD=25.03")
265/35R18 (RD=25.30")
But I'm not so sure about
the 245/45R18 (RD=26.68"), since that's almost a
full 1" bigger
diameter than stock. Hope this helps...
Best,
Forrest
'94 Stealth NT
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 20 Mar 2002 22:41:52
+1100
From: "Joel Singh" <
joelsingh@primus.com.au>
Subject:
Team3S: turbo
On my boost meter it only peaks to 6psi.
how do I tell
if one turbo is not working.
Or could there be some other problem.
need
advice
thanks,
joel.
91 3000gt.
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 20 Mar 2002 08:49:28
-0500
From:
griz600cc@comcast.netSubject: Re:
Team3S: Tire Sizing with Eibachs
After reading your responses and looking
at Cody's FAQ on tire sizing I am
going to go with the 245-40-18. I guess the
other question would be then is
the rim 18x8? (front &
rear?)
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 20 Mar 2002 08:43:14
-0500
From: "Furman, Russell" <
RFurman2@MassMutual.com>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: Ignition upgrade
Roger nor am I an EE, actually far from
it.... What I am trying to do is
simply get some of the initial
thinking/planning done before the parts
arrive. I have already looked
at the factory ignition wiring harness and
called a local junk yard to try
and find a plug (either 3/S or DSM) that I
can buy for cheap, chop up as
needed and then plug to factory wiring and
adapt to the GN coil. When
everything is together I will have a complete
written set of instructions for
the DIYer and hopefully some digital pics
plus any pertinent
info.
As for the plug boots on the coil end when they arrive I will
be trying to
adapt my NGK wires with minimal work (to the wires) to those
brass posts.
If it really looks incompatible for my foolish/stupid self I
will order the
DIY spark plug wire kit and take it from there
As
far as mounting bracket when they arrive I would like to see what kind
of
work would need to be done to the stock bracket to make the GN coils
"bolt
on" and again I will post info parts used and even drill bit
sizes.
Initially what I am doing is to take care of the DIYers like you, Jack
T,
and myself. If I sense enough interest I will offer a kit for
nominal
profit, I am not interested in making sums of money from this just
put some
gas in the car and maybe pay for an oil change every other
month.
I have learned so much from this list and now it has
become my turn to
return the favor (hopefully) .
Russ
F
CT
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Roger Gerl
[SMTP:roger.gerl@bluewin.ch]
> Sent: Tuesday, March 19, 2002 7:24
PM
> To: 'Team 3S'
> Subject: Re: Team3S: Ignition upgrade
>
> I don't want to answer questions adressed to Jeff here, he is able to
tell
> you the stock specs and those of the coils. The coils I'm using are
within
> the exact same specs like the stock one so they can even be used
with
> stock
> ignition wires (with another boot for the
coils).
>
> Russ, everything is possible to attach with some
patience. But bear in
> mind
> that we are not all EE's and some
even will go to the dealer and say
> please
> install it even if it
is a somewhat easy p&p kit.
>
> Fact is that the coils Jeff is
speaking about do have risen posts as also
> the ones do that I'm using.
Therefore other wires or boots must be used.
> If
> you can cut the
wires and attach new boots, then one step is done :) Next
> is
> the
connections of the primary windings to the coils. Something must be
>
done
> to connect them to the four wires on the stock harness. Some may
cut the
> stock connector off (ouch) and solder them to the pins of the
coils. The
> coils Jeff is speaking about can be adapted with a socket
that has 4 wires
> comming out. These wires then can lead to a socket that
directly connects
> into the stock harness. If you can do this by yourself
then the last step
> is
> a breeze. Remove the stock ignition plate
with the coils attached and
> create
> a mounting plate for the
coils and the adapters. Voilą, that's it.
>
> If ever a kit will be
available it of course will be a plug&play part. But
> today the parts
alone are not.
>
> I do have now three coil upgrades around, the
motorcycle coils together
> with
> the DIS-4 box, the large coils
like Jeff is using (either Accel or MSD
> have
> them) or the pack
I'm using. I will make at least the last ones
> interchangeable so
back-to-back tests may give the right results.
>
> Roger
>
93'3000GT TT
>
www.rtec.ch>
> > Jeff does this kit primary resistance fall within OEM operating
specs?
> > Reason I ask the original Accel motorcycle coil kit has far
too much
> > resistance and hence could not be run without an ignition
amplifier.
> (you
> > could run it with out one but then you are
solving one problem but
> putting
> > unnecessary stress on
another component and may cause that component to
> > fail..... the
factory transistors)
> >
> > Roger's most recent 2 suggestions
both fall within or below the OEM
> > tolerances but have their draw
backs..... (need custom plug wires, need
> > custom wiring harness, and
will not fit in stock location.) The first 2
> > problems I do
not doubt Roger on, but the third could be over come with
> a
> >
little patience and ingenuity both of which I have plenty of, never mind
>
the
> > general lack of a social life currently.
***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 20 Mar 2002 08:54:57
-0500
From: "Darren Schilberg" <
dschilberg@pobox.com>
Subject: RE:
Team3S: Tire Sizing with Eibachs
If this is stock then it is an 18x8.5
rim. The '93 Stealth appears to
have come in only a 17" stock back
then. Look here for the specs for
the cars though,
www.team3s.com/FAQ-Specs1.htm.
-
--Flash!
1995 VR-4
- -----Original Message-----
From:
griz600cc@comcast.netSent:
Wednesday, March 20, 2002 08:49
After reading your responses and
looking at Cody's FAQ on tire sizing I
am
going to go with the 245-40-18.
I guess the other question would be then
is
the rim 18x8? (front &
rear?)
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 20 Mar 2002 09:29:58
-0500
From:
griz600cc@comcast.netSubject: Re:
Team3S: Tire Sizing with Eibachs
I checked it out. I have the ES which
came with the 16x8, so I will go with
the 18x8.
***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 20 Mar 2002 07:23:14
-0800
From: "Chris Winkley" <
cwinkley@plaza.ds.adp.com>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: Tire Sizing with Eibachs
Griz600...
There's lots of
information about tire sizing in the archives, I recommend you do a search. I
have Eibach's with the stock 18" rims and 245/40-18 all the way around. Tons of
room, in fact I plan to replace them with 265/35-18 with the next
set.
Looking forward...Chris
1995 Glacier Pearl White VR4
(w/custom K&N intake, bored and polished throttle body, TEC 15G turbos, RC
560cc injectors, HKS fuel pump, ARC2/MAF fuel controller, Split Second A/F
meter, GReddy PRofec A boost controller, Apex EGT & boost gauges, GReddy
turbo timer, HKS SBOV, custom intercoolers, Odyssey dry cell battery, Magnecore
8.5mm wires, NGK double platinum plugs gapped at .032", ACT 2800 lb pressure
plate, Broward six puck racing disc, Centerforce throwout bearing, ATR downpipe
and test pipe, GReddy catback exhaust, Stillen cross-drilled rotors, Porterfield
R4 race pads, SS brake lines, Eibach 1" drop progressive springs, Michelin SX
MXX3 Pilots on factory 18" chromed rims)
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 20 Mar 2002 07:36:36
-0800
From: "fastmax" <
fastmax@cox.net>
Subject: Re: Team3S:
turbo
Six pounds is about the minimum boost you can achieve.
It may be
that the boost solenoid is not functioning. The
solenoid releases air to
fool the waste gates into thinking
that the pressure in the intake plenum is
lower than it really
is. If the solenoid isn't functioning the wast gate
sees the
full pressure and opens around 6#.
Is that the stock boost
gauge or an aftermarket one
???
Jim
Berry
=========================================
- ----- Original
Message -----
From: "Joel Singh" <
joelsingh@primus.com.au>
To:
<
team3s@team3s.com>
Sent:
Wednesday, March 20, 2002 3:41 AM
Subject: Team3S: turbo
> On my
boost meter it only peaks to 6psi.
> how do I tell if one turbo is not
working.
> Or could there be some other problem.
> need
advice
>
> thanks,
> joel.
> 91
3000gt.
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 20 Mar 2002 08:08:20
-0800 (PST)
From: "joe d." <
ja_dorsey@yahoo.com>
Subject:
Team3S: OT- door speaker size...
there was an exchange on door
speaker sizes going on last week. i deleted those messages only to blow
out my left side speaker last night...can someone email me privately the size,
brand options, etc. that fit for our cars?
thanks,
jd '91 Stealth
R/T TT
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 20 Mar 2002 06:54:28
-0800
From: "Jana Hefner" <
jhefner@marincounty.net>
Subject:
Team3S: retractable hardtop water leak
I purchased a 3000gt spyder in
October 2001 (before rain). During the rainy
season I discovered that
the retractable hardtop is leaking. I have been
told by Mitsubishi that
the complete seal set will cost about $1,600 (US)
and is only available from
Mitsubishi. I haven't been quoted a price for
labor. I am looking
for replacement seals for the retractable hardtop and
information regarding
experience with having the seals replaced: cost of
seals, source for
the seals, cost of labor and any useful experience advice.
Thank you in
advance for your response.
Mario
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 20 Mar 2002 10:22:44
-0600
From: "Jannusch, Matt" <
mjannusch@marketwatch.com>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: retractable hardtop water leak
> I purchased a 3000gt
spyder in October 2001 (before rain).
> During the rainy season I
discovered that the retractable
> hardtop is leaking. I have been
told by Mitsubishi that the
> complete seal set will cost about $1,600
(US) and is only
> available from Mitsubishi. I haven't been quoted
a price for
> labor. I am looking for replacement seals for the
> retractable hardtop and information regarding experience with
>
having the seals replaced: cost of seals, source for the
> seals,
cost of labor and any useful experience advice.
You already found the
information you need. Feel fortunate if they can even
get the part for
you. The replacements aren't much better, if you are
talking about the
seals for the side windows.
- -Matt
'95 3000GT Spyder
VR4
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 20 Mar 2002 11:22:13
-0600
From: "Black, Dave (ICT)" <
dblai@allstate.com>
Subject: Team3S:
How to remove exhaust bolts/nuts
Hi Damon,
I know you said you did
not want to use a torch but I wanted to share a
trick that worked perfectly
for me - even on the rusted on main cat bolts!
I tried to use LiquidWrench,
WD40, etc. without any luck.
I used a MAPP (methyl acetylene propadiene)
torch (about $35 or so from
HomeDepot). This torch is not hot enough to
cut which is fine.
1. Make sure you have adequate ventilation as the
byproducts are CO and can
be dangerous.
2. Make sure you have a water
spray bottle next to you just in case the
undercoating catches a small flame
(unlikely).
3. Get the flame on the torch to a bright blue flame about 1cm
long.
4. Place the topmost point of the blue flame at a corner notch on the
nut
you need to remove.
5. Leave the torch on this "corner" rather than a
flat edge as it will more
readily absorb the heat.
6. Wait until the nut
begins to turn an orange color - about 7-8 mins.
7. Remove and extinguish the
flame and quickly (before the nut cools) place
your socket wrench on it and
try to loosen.
8. Performing this once or twice will get the nut loosened and
without
cutting.
9. Obviously be careful when handling the nut - it stays
hot for a while!
HTH
Dave 95VR4
http://www.daveblack.net-
-----Original Message-----
From: Damon Rachell
[mailto:damonr@mefas.com]
Sent: Thursday, March 14, 2002 6:41 PM
To:
team3s; 3sracers
Subject: Team3S: removing exhaust bolts/nuts and replacing
w/ SS?
Well, i've finally had it. I want to replace all of the
exhaust nuts
and bolts with stainless hardware (front pre-cat to turbo, rear
precat
to DP, cat bolts, etc). The problem is that I have no idea how
to get
the old bolts out of the flanges. Anyone ever do this and if
so, how
did you? Currently, I don't have air tools, but I've got just
about
everything else.
I was thinking that after saturating the bolts
in lube, i'd cut them off
with a cutoff wheel then either drill through the
center, progressively
larger and larger until either it comes out
completely, or I buy an
easy-out set and use that. The issue, though,
with an easyout is that
you've gotta put extreme torque on the turbo flange
(up front) and
pre-cat in the rear. This sounds too stressful on the
flange/turbo and
don't want to either bend anything or break a
bracket.
Any other ideas? Hopefully, I'd like to avoid using a
torch due to
proximity of other
goodies.
Thanks
Damon
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 20 Mar 2002 11:37:17
-0600
From: "Black, Dave (ICT)" <
dblai@allstate.com>
Subject: RE:
Team3S: Porterfield Rotors
Hi Wayne,
As others have already
mentioned, the issue is not to do with cracking
rather the feeling of warped
rotors from them not seating on the hub
properly. I experienced this
after I first installed my Porterfields. I
was able to nearly eliminate
the warp feeling by tightening the 5 bolts down
in a 5-star "step"
pattern. First tighten all bolts down to 60 ftlb, then
all to 70 ftlb,
all to 80 ftlb, all to 90 or 95 ft lb (I forget). This
should help
things a little bit.
There is still a small amount of "warp" which I
suspect is because most of
them need to be cut anyway - even ones straight
from the manufacturer. I
went thru returning/reordering 3 sets of
rotors because of this and they all
came the same way from Porterfield -
slightly warped. I finally gave up and
just figured I'd have them cut
if needed.
Just my experience. You can always take them to be cut
if needed.
Dave 95VR4
http://www.daveblack.net-
-----Original Message-----
From: Wayne [mailto:whietala@prodigy.net]
Sent:
Wednesday, March 13, 2002 7:40 PM
To:
team3S@stealth-3000gt.stSubject:
Team3S: Porterfield Rotors
I just got my rotors (thanks Geoff) today and
have a question.
When i picked up the car from Geoff, he mentioned that the
porterfield
rotors have a tendency to crack due to interference with the
hub. He said
somebody on the list used shoe polish or something to determine
where the
interference was. Can that person speak up?
There is a
slight "shoulder" inside the rotor nearest the hub surface, if i
put the
rotors on a lathe, and cut that shoulder off, would that eliminate
the
interference?
I was thinking of either doing that, or putting a chamfer
on the outer edge
of the hub plate. I don't want to crack these rather
expensive rotors, i
don't have the kind of money Jim Berry does
;)
Any comments??
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 20 Mar 2002 13:32:59
EST
From:
DonBrando36@aol.comSubject: Team3S:
exhaust
I went to a shop by my house and asked them to
make me a test pipe. They
told me that they wouldn't do it because I
will screw up all of the o2
sensors and then my car would run like
crap. Is that true? Has anyone put a
test pipe on a N/a 3000GT,
what were the results after a month or so?
What's the diameter on a n/a borla
cat back exhaust system and the stock
exhaust system? I had ordered
one almost 2 months ago, and I'm still waiting
for it, I ordered it from
Stillen. Thanks
Brandon
93 3000GT
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Sat, 20 Apr 2002 14:11:32
-0400
From:
pvg1@daimlerchrysler.comSubject:
Re: Team3S: exhaust
Your '93 does not have O2 sensors after the main cat.
None of our cars do.
So there is nothing to screw up and your ECU won't even
know that you do
not have the main cat.
'96+ cars have extra O2
sensors after the pre-cats. I am wondering if you
need to fool the ECU if you
gut those? ;-)
I saw O2 sensor simulators for GM cars for sale
somewhere.
Philip
> I went to a shop by my
house and asked them to make me a test pipe.
They
>told me that they
wouldn't do it because I will screw up all of the o2
>sensors and then my
car would run like crap. Is that true? Has anyone
put
a
>test pipe on a N/a 3000GT, what were the results after a month or
so?
>What's the diameter on a n/a borla cat back exhaust system and the
stock
>exhaust system? I had ordered one almost 2 months ago, and
I'm still
waiting
>for it, I ordered it from Stillen.
Thanks
>
>Brandon
>93 3000GT
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 20 Mar 2002 13:26:58
-0600
From: Gary Svenkeson <
svenke@sk.sympatico.ca>
Subject:
Team3S: awd-trans problems
I own a 1993 awd RT Stealth. My problem
is that the output shaft
splines on the transmission and the transfer case
splines have worn out
and stripped. The Dodge dealers do not have any
service manuals with
diagrams of the transmission or listing of parts.
Their solution is to
sell me a new transmission and transfer case for
$8000. I have checked
with all the wreckers in Canada and it seems that
all transmissions have
the same problem.
. I would like advice
on parts needed to service the transmission at
100,000 km
if I'm going to open it. I would appreciate it if anyone
has
diagrams, parts lists and availability or experience with this
problem
to contact me
svenke@sk.sympatico.ca.
***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 20 Mar 2002 13:29:04
-0600
From: "Morice, Francis" <
francis.morice@retek.com>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: exhaust
I tried using the O2 simulators with no luck. I
know Trevor James also
tried and he had no luck either. Stuck driving around
with Check Engine
light on now. Luckily I have an OBII scan tool so I
can check codes to make
sure nothing else is going on.
By the way,
got the O2 sims from casperelectronics.com.
Francis
'96 RT/TT
- -----Original Message-----
From:
pvg1@daimlerchrysler.com
[mailto:pvg1@daimlerchrysler.com]
Sent: Saturday, April 20, 2002 1:12
PM
To:
DonBrando36@aol.com;
team3s@team3s.comSubject: Re: Team3S:
exhaust
>>'96+ cars have extra O2 sensors after the pre-cats. I am
wondering if you
>>need to fool the ECU if you gut those?
;-)
>>I saw O2 sensor simulators for GM cars for sale
somewhere.
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 20 Mar 2002 12:40:14
-0700
From: "Floyd, Jim" <
Jim_Floyd@maxtor.com>
Subject: RE:
Team3S: awd-trans problems
www.kormextrans.com- -----Original
Message-----
From: Gary Svenkeson [mailto:svenke@sk.sympatico.ca]
Sent:
Wednesday, March 20, 2002 12:27 PM
To:
team3s@stealth-3000gt.stSubject:
Team3S: awd-trans problems
I own a 1993 awd RT Stealth. My problem
is that the output shaft
splines on the transmission and the transfer case
splines have worn out
and stripped. The Dodge dealers do not have any
service manuals with
diagrams of the transmission or listing of parts.
Their solution is to
sell me a new transmission and transfer case for
$8000. I have checked
with all the wreckers in Canada and it seems that
all transmissions have
the same problem.
. I would like advice
on parts needed to service the transmission at
100,000 km
if I'm going to open it. I would appreciate it if anyone
has
diagrams, parts lists and availability or experience with this
problem
to contact me
svenke@sk.sympatico.ca.
***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 20 Mar 2002 12:42:09
-0800 (PST)
From: Jeff Lucius <
stealthman92@yahoo.com>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: awd-trans problems
Gary,
I list 9 shops (in the USA)
that work on our AWD Getrag transaxles on
the Garage page at my web
site.
http://www.stealth316.com/1-repair.htmKormex
(and others) makes or supplies replacement output shafts and
receivers.
Kormex can also perform the repair. Dodge and Mitsu
dealers as a rule do not
perform repairs of this sort on our AWD
transaxle/transfer case; they replace
them with rebuilt/refurbished
units.
For an Illustrated Guide to our
AWD drivetrain, including pictures of
the parts you need:
http://www.stealth316.com/2-awd.htmFor
instructions on removing the transaxle yourself:
http://www.stealth316.com/2-trany.htmJeff
Lucius,
http://www.stealth316.com/- -----
Original Message -----
From: "Gary Svenkeson" <
svenke@sk.sympatico.ca>
To:
<
team3s@stealth-3000gt.st>
Sent:
Wednesday, March 20, 2002 12:26 PM
Subject: Team3S: awd-trans
problems
I own a 1993 awd RT Stealth. My problem is that the output
shaft
splines on the transmission and the transfer case splines have
worn
out and stripped. The Dodge dealers do not have any service
manuals
with diagrams of the transmission or listing of parts.
Their
solution is to sell me a new transmission and transfer case
for
$8000. I have checked with all the wreckers in Canada and it
seems
that all transmissions have the same problem. I would like advice
on
parts needed to service the transmission at 100,000 km
if I'm
going to open it. I would appreciate it if anyone has
diagrams,
parts lists and availability or experience with this problem to
contact me
svenke@sk.sympatico.ca.
***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
End of Team3S: 3000GT &
Stealth V1
#788
***************************************