Team3S: 3000GT & Stealth Tuesday, March 19
2002 Volume 01 : Number
787
----------------------------------------------------------------------
Date:
Mon, 18 Mar 2002 14:51:04 -0500
From: Mark Frouhar <
mfrouhar@bear.com>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: Fixing Broken Bleeder Screw
No idea on the EZ-out, I was able to
get the screw out.
I don't think you'll need to seal the threads, you
might want to put some thread
locker to be safe. The seal is made by
the head of the screw against the inside
flare. If those two surfaces
are clean and smooth that should be good enough. If
they're leaking then you
really wouldn't be able to seal a non pipe thread connection
given
1200PSI.
-Mark Frouhar
95 VR4 very
stock
85 TA 379 DFI T56
http://www.geocities.com/Legoland0"Furman,
Russell" wrote:
>
> Ok so I got a #2 ez-out, and my speedbleeders
should be here on Tuesday.
>
> Now my questions should I use a
larger ezout and if so what size? Also when
> installing the new
speed bleeders should I use thread tape or thread goo
> when installing
them?
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 18 Mar 2002 14:54:21
-0500
From: "Darren Schilberg" <
dschilberg@pobox.com>
Subject: RE:
Team3S: Fixing Broken Bleeder Screw
Philip,
Good
point. I was not thinking of that. But the point is that
the
SpeedBleeder works with only 1/4 - 1/2 turn open so it doesn't take
much
to operate them. Jack up the car and remove the wheel, open
the
SpeedBleeder up to 1/2 turn, pump the brakes. Once they are in
there it
doesn't take much to operate them.
And anti-seize on
the threads sounds like a better idea. Whatever it
is it works for my
applications. I have had the brakes through some hot
lap sessions in
Kansas in the summer and the bleed screws did not lock
in place so it works
fine. I have more anti-seize if I ever need to.
Just don't get that
mixed in with the brake fluid though. =)
- --Flash!
-
-----Original Message-----
From:
pvg1@daimlerchrysler.comSent:
Monday, March 18, 2002 14:38
I am not familiar with 3S brake
bleeders just yet, but if they are like
99.9% of all the bleeders out there,
they seal on the tapered cone at
the
tip the bleeder screw. The thread
does not participate in sealing, the
cone
does. And that compound on the
threads should be anti-seize, so that it
is
easier to loosen the bleeder
after it goes through several years of
driving
in snow and
salt.
They say they have thread sealant there, oh well... Whatever.
Anything
will
work as long as it keeps water and salt
out.
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 18 Mar 2002 14:20:36
-0800 (PST)
From: Geoff Mohler <
gemohler@www.speedtoys.com>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: timimg advance kit
Apolgies for coming in late here..but im
sure someone already suggested
that "Yes, it adds 20hp because it fakes out
the system, but is the
possible engine explosion from improperly advanced
timing worth it?"
On Fri, 15 Mar 2002, Mike & Cathy
wrote:
> Someone is advertising on ebay a kit to fool the sensors on
cold air coming
> in. It is to advance the timing for more (claiming 20 hp
)hp. With out
> knowing much about the ECU I don't believe
> this
would be possible or recommended. Any experts have any ideas?
> Mike
S
- ---
Geoff Mohler
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 18 Mar 2002 14:27:44
-0800 (PST)
From: Geoff Mohler <
gemohler@www.speedtoys.com>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Fire Extinguishers
You dont have to like em..just have the
book. No book..no trophy. Sounds
like BS, but Ive challenged my
way into a regional points position because
of it.
On Sat, 16 Mar
2002, bdtrent wrote:
> Thanks for the info. The idea of having
an extinguisher available for
> myself or anyone else, seems like a good
one. As far as SCCA goes, (I can
> say this since I'm a
member). It's the only club I know of that requires
> you to buy the
rules. I never did like rules enough to be willing to pay
> for them
;-)
>
> Regards,
> DaveT/92TT
>
> ----- Original
Message -----
> From: "Darren Schilberg" <
dschilberg@pobox.com>
> To:
"'Team 3S'" <
team3s@stealth-3000gt.st>
>
Sent: Friday, March 15, 2002 10:20 PM
> Subject: RE: Team3S: Fire
Extinguishers
>
>
> Only place I had it requires was Great
Plains Region PCA at Heartland
> Park. I just mounted it to the
rollbar. That rollbar comes in handy
> sometimes. 2.5# was the
minimum they required I think. 5# is a good
> size for track
use.
>
> Until you get into real racing you don't need on-board or
Halon style of
> things. So if someone is telling you to do that
then investigate
> further.
>
> If you can't find a copy of
the SCCA rules then ask me as I have the CD
> here and book and can advise
you on some things and what isn't covered
> we can contact SCCA or you
might be able to find their rules online
> (
www.scca.org).
>
> --Flash!
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: fastmax
> Sent: Friday,
March 15, 2002 20:13
>
> The only open track group that I've had
require one is the Alpha Romeo
> club
> and they only required that
you have an extinguisher mounted within
> reach.
> I have a 5 # dry
powder type mounted on the passenger side of the
> console.
> I'm
going to replace it with a 10 pound halon bottle I have laying
>
around.
> I'd like to upgrade to an onboard fire suppression system some
day but
> as you
> point out is a bit pricey --- I guess it depends
on how much you value
> your skin.
- ---
Geoff
Mohler
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 18 Mar 2002 19:41:06
-0500
From: "Ioan Raicu" <
iraicu@directvinternet.com>
Subject:
Team3S: EGT probe installation
Hello,
Just in case my last email
was too long for some to read, here is the
short version of my
question...
How deep have some of you placed your EGT probe in the front
manifold???
I recently placed my EGT probe in the same location, but not as
deep as
it was before (went from about 1 inch deep to 1/4 of an inch deep)
and
my EGT temperatures drastically changed (about 150 degrees
Celsius
cooler).
Thanks in advance.
John Raicu
94
Yellow TT
- --------------------------------------------------------
Ioan Raicu --
iraicu@cs.wayne.eduWayne State
University --
http://www.wayne.edu/Computer Science Dept
--
http://www.cs.wayne.edu/H
S N L
High Speed
Networking Lab --
http://hsnl.cs.wayne.edu/========================================================
***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 18 Mar 2002 16:59:45
-0800
From: Damon Rachell <
damonr@mefas.com>
Subject: Re: Team3S:
EGT probe installation
Fluid dynamics says that the closer the center of
a tube, the higher the
flow rate. Applying this to the manifold would
indicate that at the
edge, the velocity of the exhaust is dramatically
slower. Therefore,
the exhaust at the walls has much more time to
radiate it's heat.
Ideally, the probe should be at the center of the
manifold.
Ioan Raicu wrote:
> Hello,
>
> Just in
case my last email was too long for some to read, here is the
> short
version of my question...
>
> How deep have some of you placed your
EGT probe in the front manifold???
> I recently placed my EGT probe in the
same location, but not as deep as
> it was before (went from about 1 inch
deep to 1/4 of an inch deep) and
> my EGT temperatures drastically changed
(about 150 degrees Celsius
> cooler).
>
> Thanks in
advance.
>
>
> John Raicu
> 94 Yellow
TT
>
>
--------------------------------------------------------
> Ioan
Raicu
--
iraicu@cs.wayne.edu> Wayne
State University --
http://www.wayne.edu/> Computer Science
Dept --
http://www.cs.wayne.edu/>
H S
N L
> High Speed
Networking Lab --
http://hsnl.cs.wayne.edu/***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 18 Mar 2002 19:01:17
-0600
From: "Craig Hodges" <
chodges@houston.rr.com>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: EGT probe installation
He is seeing the reverse. cooler on
the outside, hotter in the middle.
- -----Original Message-----
From:
owner-team3s@team3s.com
[mailto:owner-team3s@team3s.com]On Behalf
Of Damon Rachell
Sent: Monday,
March 18, 2002 7:00 PM
To:
iraicu@cs.wayne.eduCc:
Team3S@stealth-3000gt.stSubject:
Re: Team3S: EGT probe installation
Fluid dynamics says that the
closer the center of a tube, the higher the
flow rate. Applying this
to the manifold would indicate that at the
edge, the velocity of the exhaust
is dramatically slower. Therefore,
the exhaust at the walls has much
more time to radiate it's heat.
Ideally, the probe should be at the center
of the manifold.
Ioan Raicu wrote:
> Hello,
>
>
Just in case my last email was too long for some to read, here is the
>
short version of my question...
>
> How deep have some of you
placed your EGT probe in the front manifold???
> I recently placed my EGT
probe in the same location, but not as deep as
> it was before (went from
about 1 inch deep to 1/4 of an inch deep) and
> my EGT temperatures
drastically changed (about 150 degrees Celsius
> cooler).
>
> Thanks in advance.
>
> John Raicu
> 94 Yellow
TT
> Ioan
Raicu
--
iraicu@cs.wayne.edu> Wayne
State University --
http://www.wayne.edu/> Computer Science
Dept --
http://www.cs.wayne.edu/>
H S
N L
> High Speed
Networking Lab --
http://hsnl.cs.wayne.edu/>
========================================================
***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 18 Mar 2002 21:55:28
-0500
From: "Ioan Raicu" <
iraicu@directvinternet.com>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: EGT probe installation
Then how did you thread the probe in
the manifold without adding an
extra piece of metal in which to thread the
probe. I initially just
drilled the manifold and screwed in the probe,
but it eventually striped
the thread and came loose. I then took it to
a shop who welded a 1/2
inch piece of metal over the whole in which I screwed
in the probe, but
obviously now the probe sits much farther away from the
center of the
manifold than it used to, but at least the thread will not
strip again.
Any suggestions to what I could do, or hat I should have
done???
John Raicu
94 Yellow TT
- -----Original
Message-----
From: Damon Rachell [mailto:damonr@mefas.com]
Sent: Monday,
March 18, 2002 8:00 PM
To:
iraicu@cs.wayne.eduCc:
Team3S@stealth-3000gt.stSubject:
Re: Team3S: EGT probe installation
Fluid dynamics says that the closer
the center of a tube, the higher the
flow rate. Applying this to
the manifold would indicate that at the
edge, the velocity of the exhaust is
dramatically slower. Therefore,
the exhaust at the walls has much more
time to radiate it's heat.
Ideally, the probe should be at the center of the
manifold.
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 19 Mar 2002 09:01:37
-0600
From: "Mark Wendlandt" <
stealth_tt@hotmail.com>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: Fixing Broken Bleeder Screw
A positive side affect of the
speedbleeder thread sealant may be to prevent
corrosion, but the main reason
is to not allow air into the brake system by
way of the threads when
bleeding the brakes. It doesn't do any good to have
a check valve if
you can get air into the system past the threads.
Mark
Wendlandt
'91RT/TT
>From: "Darren Schilberg" <
dschilberg@pobox.com>
>
And anti-seize on the threads sounds like a better idea. Whatever
it
>is it works for my applications.
>From:
pvg1@daimlerchrysler.comThe
thread does not participate in sealing, the
>cone
>does. And that
compound on the threads should be anti-seize, so that it
>is
>easier
to loosen the bleeder after it goes through several years
of
>driving
>in snow and salt.
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 19 Mar 2002 09:45:25
-0800 (PST)
From: Casey Rayman <
theturbodog@yahoo.com>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: Ignition upgrade (warning and options)
I've been testing the
Accell Coils in my car for a little over 6
months now with the stock
transistor and with DIS-4. With the stock
transistors I run .045 gap at
18lbs boost with 15G's+usual mods.
With the DIS-4 there does not seem to be
a boost limit at the .045
gap.
Casey
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 19 Mar 2002 19:22:49
+0100
From: "Roger Gerl" <
roger.gerl@bluewin.ch>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Ignition upgrade (warning and options)
Great Casey, are these
the Motorcycle coils or the GM ones ? Dunno what car
you have but have you
have the chance to datalog it ?
Thanks
Roger
93'3000GT TT
www.rtec.ch- ----- Original Message
-----
From: "Casey Rayman" <
theturbodog@yahoo.com>
To: "'Team
3S'" <
Team3S@stealth-3000gt.st>
Sent:
Tuesday, March 19, 2002 6:45 PM
Subject: RE: Team3S: Ignition upgrade
(warning and options)
> I've been testing the Accell Coils in my car
for a little over 6
> months now with the stock transistor and with
DIS-4. With the stock
> transistors I run .045 gap at 18lbs boost
with 15G's+usual mods.
> With the DIS-4 there does not seem to be a boost
limit at the .045
> gap.
>
> Casey
***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 19 Mar 2002 10:47:43
-0800 (PST)
From: menalteed <
menalteed@yahoo.com>
Subject:
[none]
I have a very simple question about the door trim.
My door lock
button on the drivers side is not
working.
I think it only needs the
contacts cleaned. There is a
separate cover that sits over the window switch
and
door lock switch area. I have tried to pop it off but
it didn't want
to move without more force then I want
to apply, I'm not sure if this cover
is just for looks
or if I need to remove the complete door panel to get
to
the switch. Has anyone had this problem and could
you tell me if the whole
door panel needs to be
removed or if as it looks I can get to the switch
by
poping off the little trim panel at the switch. I
don't want to bust it
if it is just for looks and not
removable. The book is not clear in this
area.
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 19 Mar 2002 13:52:59
-0500
From: "Furman, Russell" <
RFurman2@MassMutual.com>
Subject:
Team3S: RE:
It is there for looks you need to remove the entire door
panel DO NOT try
and pry it off.......... DAMHIK
Remove the entire
door trim and there are 3 screws that hold the switch box
to the panel you
will see what I mean when you remove the entire door panel.
>
-----Original Message-----
> From: menalteed
[SMTP:menalteed@yahoo.com]
> Sent: Tuesday, March 19, 2002 1:48 PM
>
To: Team3S
> Subject:
>
> I have a very simple question
about the door trim.
> My door lock button on the drivers side is
not
> working.
> I think it only needs the contacts cleaned. There
is a
> separate cover that sits over the window switch and
> door
lock switch area. I have tried to pop it off but
> it didn't want to move
without more force then I want
> to apply, I'm not sure if this cover is
just for looks
> or if I need to remove the complete door panel to
get
> to the switch. Has anyone had this problem and could
> you
tell me if the whole door panel needs to be
> removed or if as it looks I
can get to the switch by
> poping off the little trim panel at the switch.
I
> don't want to bust it if it is just for looks and not
>
removable. The book is not clear in this area.
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 19 Mar 2002 12:05:27
-0800 (PST)
From: Jeff Lucius <
stealthman92@yahoo.com>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: switch covers
There are tabs that are bent over (if I
remember correctly) holding
the garnish on. Take the door panel off to get to
them. It's a 5-min
job using just screwdrivers.
http://www.stealth316.com/2-door-panel.htmJeff
Lucius,
http://www.stealth316.com/***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
End of Team3S: 3000GT &
Stealth V1
#787
***************************************