Team3S: 3000GT & Stealth Sunday, March 17
2002 Volume 01 : Number
785
----------------------------------------------------------------------
Date:
Sat, 16 Mar 2002 13:30:29 -0500
From: "Jon" <
jon@ncfpc.com>
Subject: Team3S: Couple
questions
Hey guys,
Recently my 91' VR-4 Twin
Turbo has been acting up on me. Occasionally
when starting the car (not
necessarily the first of the day) it starts fine,
then idles ridiculously
low... giving it gas doesn't help, it sometimes
makes it worse (forcing it to
idle lower). Giving it MORE gas will slowly
raise the RPMs, but barely
above 1000 or 2000. Then, after letting off the
gas again it just sinks
down. It'll often stall when this is happening. If
I force the
car to start moving, it will be fine... its just while I'm
sitting
there. If I idle at a stop sign two seconds down the road after
this
happens, its fine. The strange thing is that giving it gas seems
to
make it worse... my MAS has been changed recently, so I don't think it
has
anything to do with that. It happens maybe about 25% of the time
when
starting my car, so its not like a constant problem. Any ideas
what could
be causing this? I'm noticing my exhaust sounds a lot richer
than usual
with a lot of chugs and pops, and I don't know if that is a side
effect of
the problem? I'm not sure..
Second, I
don't know if there is an easy explanation for this one, but
my interval
setting, and the off setting on my wipers insist on stopping the
wipers in
the MIDDLE of the my windshield. Any ideas what could be
causing
this?
Thanks a lot
guys,
--Jon
***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Sat, 16 Mar 2002 18:55:54
-0500
From: "Tom Terflinger" <
terflit@hotmail.com>
Subject:
Team3S: Help me help myself!
Thank you in advance for reading this and or
responding!
Today I attempted to tune my car w/o the aid of a dattaloger
or any other
advanced equipment. In particular I am trying to set 3 HKS
components, a EVC
4, a GCC, and a VPC. First and foremost the EVC 4 boost
controller, I set it
via instructions off a 300zx users website as there was
no support from HKS
after emailing and calling them. The instructions had me
run in 3rd gear
from 2,500rpm to 7,000rpm. 45-130mph while in L mode for
learn. You do 2
runs the first one the EVC beeps around 3,500rpm but you
dont let off. The
second run it beeps when you let off at redline. After
this you set the low
and high boost level and SBC (scramble) also the
offset??? can be set. I
used .95 bar for my low boost and 1.05 for the high.
I then set the SBC for
15 seconds @ 1.2 bar I belive. Anyhow the car runs
great now, very fast in
every gear aftermarket boost gauge show about .95
bar. The car has problems
in almost every gear between 5,000 and 6,000 rpm!
It shakes and stutters and
goes down to .5 bar (factory setting I think)
This would be the boost
controller I would think except it should do this at
7,000 rpm according to
the runs I made earlier and/or me going above 1.05
bar which wasnt on the
boost gauge. Also the boost controller should beep as
a warning which never
occoured. Now I am wondering if I am experiencing fuel
cut (previously I
never boosted above .75 bar). I read a post that says it
feels like you hit
a brick wall w/ fuel cut. I am fine holding 1bar (or
close to it) up till
5,000 rpm in any gear. I have the VPC and GCC which
work together to richen
or lean my fuel curve but I dont know how to set
them. Currently I have my
vpc set to +4 response, +6 Gain, +2 Idle, +6
Output. The GCC which I belive
fine tunes the VPC is set to +4 for 700/.60,
+6 for 2400/.00, +8 5800/.80,
and +10 7500/1.20. I really dont understand
what the numbers mean on the GCC
I thought they were rpms over bar but I am
not sure they go up and down. Any
help is VERY appreciated, I dont know
where else to go or who to ask.
Thanks in advance!
TNT3KGT
92
VR4
Stillen DP
HKS Supper Dragger
Greddy BOV
Blitz turbo
timer
HKS VPC
HKS EVC
HKS GCC
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Sun, 17 Mar 2002 01:47:24
+0100
From: "Roger Gerl" <
roger.gerl@bluewin.ch>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Help me help myself! (VPC Help needed)
Tom,
There is
only one advice for the moment : DO NOT BOOST ABOVE 1 bar ! Forget
the
scramble boost as this may cause very fast severe damage !
The next step
is to get at least a good A/F meter that shows you what you
are doing to the
car. A datalogger of course is the best choice.
You do not write anything
about larger injectors nor fuel pump and therefore
1 bar is your
limit.
> 15 seconds @ 1.2 bar I belive. Anyhow the car runs great now,
very fast in
> every gear aftermarket boost gauge show about .95 bar. The
car has
problems
> in almost every gear between 5,000 and 6,000 rpm! It
shakes and stutters
and
> goes down to .5 bar (factory setting I think)
This would be the boost
You say the car runs great and in the next
sentence you speak of problems in
every gear ?? Sounds strange to me as I
would not say that this behaviour is
great at all. What you are experiencing
is heavy retarding of timing as well
as some sequrity actions by the engine
control unit. This is initiated as
your engine is in HIGH danger. To say the
worst, your engine may internally
damaged already. This sounds horrible but
overboosting and the effects you
are describing do not sound
good.
> 5,000 rpm in any gear. I have the VPC and GCC which work
together to
richen
> or lean my fuel curve but I dont know how to set
them. Currently I have my
> vpc set to +4 response, +6 Gain, +2 Idle, +6
Output. The GCC which I
belive
> fine tunes the VPC is set to +4 for
700/.60, +6 for 2400/.00, +8 5800/.80,
> and +10 7500/1.20. I really dont
understand what the numbers mean on the
GCC
First crank boostdown to
factory settings as you don't know at all what the
situation is. Learn about
the settings and get the desired tuning
instruments to make sure you do not
run on the dark side of the moon. With
wrong settings of the VPC or GCC you
can damage your engine within a minute
!
I guess you bought the car
with the stuff already equipped and you are
missing the manuals. A few of us
do have the VPC too. This is why I make an
addition to the topic. But before
you start tuning it you NEED to have an
A/F meter (you can also use a good
voltmeter) or a datalogger
www.tmo.com(or
pocketlogger).
Roger
93'3000GT TT
www.rtec.ch*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Sat, 16 Mar 2002 19:10:33
-0600
From: "Jannusch, Matt" <
mjannusch@marketwatch.com>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: Help me help myself!
> After this you set the low and high
boost level and
> SBC (scramble) also the offset??? can be set. I
>
used .95 bar for my low boost and 1.05 for the
> high.
Ooops.
The low needs to be set to the wastegate response pressure. That is
.45
kg/cm^2 (what the EVC measures pressure in - kilograms per
square
centimeter). With it set that high, the EVC won't properly
control boost.
> I then set the SBC for 15 seconds @ 1.2 bar I
>
belive. Anyhow the car runs great now, very
> fast in every gear
aftermarket boost gauge show
> about .95 bar. The car has problems in
almost
> every gear between 5,000 and 6,000 rpm! It shakes
> and
stutters and goes down to .5 bar (factory
> setting I think) This would be
the boost
> controller I would think except it should do
> this at
7,000 rpm according to the runs I
> made earlier and/or me going above
1.05 bar which
> wasnt on the boost gauge. Also the boost
>
controller should beep as a warning which
> never occoured.
Umm 1.2
bar scramble-boost? Not good. 1.2 on a stock fuel system
and
street fuel is a quick trip to the motor rebuilder.
> I have
the VPC and GCC which work together to richen
> or lean my fuel curve but
I dont know how to set them.
> Currently I have my vpc set to +4
response, +6 Gain,
> +2 Idle, +6 Output. The GCC which I belive
fine
> tunes the VPC is set to +4 for 700/.60, +6 for
> 2400/.00, +8
5800/.80, and +10 7500/1.20. I really
> dont understand what the numbers
mean on the GCC
Why do you have a VPC and GCC with no fuel system
upgrades (or did you
forget to tell us about them?)? If you don't need
to use those (and on
stock injectors you don't - and it won't help much to
have it even if it is
properly tuned) then having it and not knowing how to
tune it can be very
hazardous to your car's health.
The problems
between 5000-6000 RPM don't sound good at all. Could be as
simple as
spark blowout (did you regap your plugs to .032?) or as major as
piston
damage from overboost and/or running too lean with the VPC/GCC
improperly
adjusted.
Let's hope not...
- -Matt
'95 3000GT Spyder
VR4
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Sat, 16 Mar 2002 21:55:41
-0500
From: "Aamer" <
aamer@thepentagon.com>
Subject:
Team3S: GCC?
Ok, I'm sorry if this is a stupid question, but I've been
seeing a lot of
posts about "GCC's" lately. Usually people will say something
about having a
"VPC + GCC". Well, I'm assuming that by VPC they are referring
to a Vacuum
Pressure Controller; but I'm a bit puzzled on this whole GCC
deal.
Could someone please fill me in on
this?
Thanks.
Aamer Abbas
'94 3000GT (DOHC -- Naturally
Aspirated)
email:
aamer@thepentagon.comfax: (707)
982-8817 [add +1 country code if faxing from outside the
United
States]
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Sun, 17 Mar 2002 00:07:29
-0500
From: "Philip V. Glazatov" <
gphilip@umich.edu>
Subject: Team3S:
Japanese/Chinese help??
Hi guys,
I am installing as Apexi-ITC
ignition timing controller and I have no clue
which wires to hook up where.
The manual is in Japanese and Apexi-usa.com
does not have English
instructions for the ITC. Could anyone help me read this?
http://www-personal.umich.edu/~gphilip/ITC_wires.jpgMost
likely these are colors of the ITC wires. If you guys could help me
with
this part I have almost figured out the rest.
Thanks.
Philip
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Sat, 16 Mar 2002 23:36:48
-0600
From: "Jannusch, Matt" <
mjannusch@marketwatch.com>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: GCC?
> Ok, I'm sorry if this is a stupid question, but
I've been
> seeing a lot of posts about "GCC's" lately. Usually people
> will say something about having a "VPC + GCC". Well, I'm
>
assuming that by VPC they are referring to a Vacuum Pressure
>
Controller; but I'm a bit puzzled on this whole GCC deal.
VPC = Vein
Pressure Controller. Made by HKS for the turbo cars.
Switches
airflow metering from the factory Karman vortex mass-airflow
measuring
system to a speed-density system that uses manifold pressure, temp
and (I
think) barometric pressure and various engine-specific numbers
(like
volumetric efficiency) to determine how much fuel to
inject.
With speed-density there is no airflow "meter" so there is much
less intake
restriction and also eliminates problems like MAF overrun if you
flow more
air than the factory MAF can meter properly. The VPC also can
run bigger
injectors (really the main reason for wanting to run a VPC in the
first
place).
The GCC is also by HKS and allows better fine-tuning of
the VPC. The VPC is
fairly coarse in its adjustments, the GCC can help
tweak things a bit
better.
Essentially, if you can't get the car
dialed in well enough with the four
knobs on the VPC then you add a GCC to
get better adjustability.
- -Matt
'95 3000GT Spyder
VR4
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Sun, 17 Mar 2002 00:48:14
-0600
From: Kar-Yeong Teoh <
karyeong@yahoo.com>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: Japanese/Chinese help??
Philip,
You're in luck, I know
chinese. ;)
It goes
Purple, Green, Yellow,
White.
Kar-Yeong
95 RT/TT
Jobless Software Engineer with 6 months
work experience looking for a
programming career. Speaks C/C++, VB, and of
course, Chinese.
Resume at
http://csmajors.com/resume.docPhilip
V. Glazatov wrote:
> Hi guys,
>
> I am installing as
Apexi-ITC ignition timing controller and I have no
> clue which wires to
hook up where. The manual is in Japanese and
> Apexi-usa.com does not
have English instructions for the ITC. Could
> anyone help me read
this?
>
>
http://www-personal.umich.edu/~gphilip/ITC_wires.jpg>
> Most likely these are colors of the ITC wires. If you guys could help
me
> with this part I have almost figured out the rest. Thanks.
>
> Philip
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Sun, 17 Mar 2002 00:03:28
-0600
From: "Todd D.Shelton" <
tds@brightok.net>
Subject: Re: Team3S:
5mm spacers - Teins
- -----Original Message-----
From: Todd D.Shelton
<
tds@brightok.net>
To:
team3s@team3s.com <
team3s@team3s.com>
Date: Friday, March
15, 2002 4:20 PM
Subject: Re: Team3S: 5mm spacers
>When I was
gathering info for my Tein purchase,
>I came upon a posting of the
available springs with the
>ratings listed for our setup. The poster
listed the
>specs and the price converted from Yen at the time.
>I
*think* it was on 3SI.org - if needed, I could
>try to locate it
again. It would probably take some
>time to order/get them if they
aren't stocked at the
>US distributor location. An email to the US
sales
>staff at Tein.com would confirm.
>
>The GABS are no
longer imported to the US so
>that option was out for me
...
>
>- tds
>
>http://www.brightok.net/~tds
-
-------------------------------------------------------------------
As a
followup - here is the info I was referring to about
the different springs
available for the Tein setup:
Stock setup that comes with the GTO/3S
setup:
Front springs have an I.D. of 65, a rate of 12.0k, and
a length
of 175mm.
The rear springs have an I.D.70-90, a rate of 8.0k, a length
of 250mm.
Here is the chart for racing springs for the Tein
setup:
http://www.tein.co.jp/rsp2e.htmlYou
can also buy different standard springs,
which come in a varity of spring
rates and they
are listed at:
http://www.tein.co.jp/stsp2e.html-
- tds
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Sat, 16 Mar 2002 23:13:15
-0800
From: "BlackLight" <
BlackLight@Planetice.net>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: Transfercase for 6 speed
I already have a 6 spd, but it's a
94 so it has an aluminum casing then?
So if I upgrade I should get a 95 +
xfer case with the cast iron casing
then right? Should bolt right in
shouldn't it?
Matt Nelson
1994 RT TT
Computer Sales
Consultant
Gateway Computers, Salem OR
Work Phone 503-587-7113
BlackLight@Planetice.Netwww.BlackLight.5u.com-
-----Original Message-----
From:
owner-team3s@team3s.com
[mailto:owner-team3s@team3s.com] On Behalf
Of Mikael Kenson
Sent: Friday,
March 15, 2002 2:27 AM
To:
Team3S@stealth-3000gt.stSubject:
Team3S: Transfercase for 6 speed
How much stronger is the cast iron gen 3
transfercase compared to a
first gen aluminium TC?
Will it brake in
the housing/case as my previos aluminium ones has done?
(I split them in two
so one half falls to the ground!)
Has anyone had one of these improved
TC's to fail?
/Mikael Kenson
http://www.3000gt.nu***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Sun, 17 Mar 2002 07:06:15
-0500 (EST)
From: Joseph Spainhour <
spainhou@coastalnet.com>
Subject:
Team3S: break mismatch
Hello all,
Stupid me put the breaks
on wrong (too much beer that day).
I put both front pads on one side and both
back pads on another side.
They were broke in yesterday. Maybe 10 miles or
so. No further
driving has been done. Should I correct the problem by moving
the two
incorect pads, leave it alone until the next break job, or buy
new
pads and replace them.
Thanks,
Joseph
93 3kgt vr4
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Sun, 17 Mar 2002 13:42:58
+0100
From: "Roger Gerl" <
roger.gerl@bluewin.ch>
Subject:
Team3S: Ignition upgrade (warning and options)
Since a long time we are
in research for a solution that gets rid of the
spark blowout at high boost.
Our weak ignition system (small transistors,
low current, medium voltage)
consists of a coil driver transistor module and
three coils firing twice (one
as waste spark).
Now one solutions was found by using an aftermarket
ignition amplifier with
other coils. As the parts are expensive one may onyl
upgrade the coils but
here rises a big problem as the aftermarket coil from
Accel used on
motorcycles has a primary resistance of 3 Ohms what is way too
high compared
to the stock 0.67 - 0.81 Ohms. Therefore NEVER used them with
the stock
ignition module as it may be damaged due to the limitation of
the
transistors. In fact they are also the limtiers for the current
and
therefore an ever lower voltage may be produced by the
coils.
Therefore, only use an aftermarket igntion amplifier like MSD
DIS-4 (with
coil adapters) or HKS TwinPower.
Another way to be
investigated is using the Accel coils for GM cars. Just
search the web for
more information on 140016 (Coil pack for the GN Turbo)
and 140017 (Super DIS
coil). Both are providing a good primary resistance
(stock : 067-0.81, Coil
Pack 0.7Ohm +/- 10%, Super Coil 0.5Ohm +/- 10%).
Secondary resistance is not
that important as the inducted voltage is (Pack
: 42kV, Super coil : 45kV,
stock ... I couldn't find but it's about 39kV). I
ordered both parts but it's
very expensive to get the stuff over to Europe.
Roger
93'3000GT
TT
www.rtec.ch*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Sun, 17 Mar 2002 07:55:44
-0500
From: "bdtrent" <
bdtrent@netzero.net>
Subject:
Team3S: DNPerformance BOV
Has anyone used the DNPerformance BOV? It
looks like a nice piece at a good
price, but I can't confirm if it can be set
up as a pressure bypass. I
havn't gotten any feedback from Don at DN,
otherwise I wouldn't be bothering
the
list.
Regards,
DaveT/92TT
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Sun, 17 Mar 2002 11:02:51
-0500
From: "Ioan Raicu" <
iraicu@directvinternet.com>
Subject:
Team3S: EGT probe installation
Hello,
I recently had a failing EGT
probe and had to replace it. Just for the
sake of painting a complete
picture, I was reading cruising (70mph) EGT
at about 850~875 degrees Celsius,
and have seen it as high as 1100
degrees Celsius in a high speed run (~160
mph). Everything ran great,
and although everybody that I talked to
told me to turn down the boost
from 14PSI to something lower until I see
lower temps, I drove without
changing anything and the car is still ticking
after 20K miles and one a
half year of driving (by the way, I have a basic
BPU). Several days
ago, I finally installed a new EGT probe, and the
resulting temperature
readings are totally different. I now get about
620 degrees Celsius
while cruising at 70 mph and have yet to see it get to
900 degrees
Celsius. I have not done more than 130 mph yet since the
new sensor was
installed, so the temps might still be higher when I push the
car even
harder. My question now….
The probe’s sensor (GREDDY)
is a little less than 1 inch long. The
first probe I had installed, I
just drilled in the front manifold and
screwed in the probe’s fitting and I
was done. Most likely, the probe’s
sensor was sitting entirely in the
manifold. When I tried to put the
second (new) probe in, I found that
the hole I drilled was way too big
and that the probe would come loose within
minutes of driving. In order
not to drill another hole, I had a shop
weld a half an inch piece of
metal right above the whole, which also
increased the amount of
threading I would have from one or two threads, to
half an inch worth of
threads… The only problem now is that the probe’s
sensor is only barely
in the manifold, probably less than 1/4 of an inch
(compared to almost a
whole inch). Could this difference cause such a
big temperature
difference, or could I have had a faulty temperature
sensor? How deep
are some of your EGT sensors placed in the
manifold???
Thanks in advance.
John Raicu
94 Yellow TT
-
--------------------------------------------------------
Ioan Raicu --
iraicu@cs.wayne.eduWayne State
University --
http://www.wayne.edu/Computer Science Dept
--
http://www.cs.wayne.edu/High Speed
Networking Lab --
http://hsnl.cs.wayne.edu/***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Sun, 17 Mar 2002 11:57:54
-0500
From: "Philip V. Glazatov" <
gphilip@umich.edu>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: Japanese/Chinese help??
Guys, I got my answer, thanks to
Kar-Yeong.
Someone please find him a programming job, he is very
multilingual.
Philip
At 01:48 AM 3/17/2002, Kar-Yeong Teoh
wrote:
>Philip,
>
>You're in luck, I know chinese.
;)
>
>It goes
>Purple, Green, Yellow,
White.
>
>
>Kar-Yeong
>95 RT/TT
>Jobless Software
Engineer with 6 months work experience looking for a
>programming career.
Speaks C/C++, VB, and of course, Chinese.
>Resume at
http://csmajors.com/resume.doc>
>
>Philip
V. Glazatov wrote:
>>Hi guys,
>>I am installing as Apexi-ITC
ignition timing controller and I have no
>>clue which wires to hook up
where. The manual is in Japanese and
>>Apexi-usa.com does not have
English instructions for the ITC. Could
>>anyone help me read
this?
>>http://www-personal.umich.edu/~gphilip/ITC_wires.jpg
>>Most
likely these are colors of the ITC wires. If you guys could help me
>>with this part I have almost figured out the rest.
Thanks.
>>Philip
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Sun, 17 Mar 2002 12:22:08
-0600
From: "xwing" <
xwing@wi.rr.com>
Subject: Re: Team3S:
Transfercase for 6 speed
In USA, I think at the same time they
changed to the 6 speed transaxle,
they changed to the cast iron transfer
case.
My 94 VR4 has cast iron xfer case.
JT
From: "Mikael Kenson"
<
vr4@bahnhof.se>
> > What
year did they start making the stronger TC's?
> I think these are the
different versions...
> First gen TC, 91-92, Aluminium, 18 splines (5
speed gear box)
> Second gen TC, 93, Aluminium, 25 splines (5 speed gear
box)
> Third gen TC, 94, Aluminium, haven't counted splines, (6 speed gear
box)
> Fourth gen TC, 95-99, Cast iron, haven't counted splines, (6
speed gear
box)
> If you want to see the difference you can check my
web page for pictures
of a second gen TC lined up next to a fourth gen
TC.
>
http://www.3000gt.nu click on
"Modifications" in the menu.
> Please note that you can't mix 5 speed and
6 speed parts. If you wan't to
upgrade you need to change Gearbox, rear dif,
drive shaft, Transfer case,
shifter, shifter cables and lower radiator hose
(!).
> /Mikael Kenson
http://www.3000gt.nu***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
End of Team3S: 3000GT &
Stealth V1
#785
***************************************
