Team3S: 3000GT & Stealth Wednesday, March 13
2002 Volume 01 : Number
781
----------------------------------------------------------------------
Date:
Tue, 12 Mar 2002 14:56:43 -0600
From: "Jannusch, Matt" <
mjannusch@marketwatch.com>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: Possible product
> I found this link today on some Supra
guy's website. This
> $99 little gadget has 8 0-10V analog inputs
(and a bunch of
> digital), and connects via USB to your computer.
There's a
> DLL that allows you to query the voltage of each channel real
> time, 25 times/second. It comes with some basic logging
>
software, so you could use that or write your own. It's also
> got
2 analog outputs, so there's even some poking at the ECU
> that could be
done. :) (Homemade AFC, anyone?)
Can't make an AFC out of it since the
outputs have a maximum resolution of
50hz. We'd need more in the area
of 1600hz (remember that the MAF signal is
a frequency-based signal and not
voltage-based).
With a 12-bit A/D converter and a 10V range of
measurement accuracy will be
.002v for O2 sensor measurement (probably close
enough).
> With some custom software (or perhaps the software that
comes
> with it!), this could be the answer to datalogging for us
> poor '94-'95 owners. Just tap into a few of the lines
>
running in/out of the ECU.
It looks like a good start... If their
frequency counter will lock onto a
non-linear pulse then it should work for
RPM also (which you have to get to
have a reference to tune to). Could
also hook up a GM 3-bar MAP sensor and
log voltage from that to get boost
logging.
> I'm thinking I'll order one and play around with it, as
> PocketLogger doesn't seem to have any plans to support the
>
OBD-I/II hybrid cars and I REALLY want to have some decent
> data
logging!!!
The PMS is still an option too, although expensive if all you
want is
logging.
- -Matt
'95 3000GT Spyder VR4
***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 12 Mar 2002 15:06:18
-0600
From: "Christopher Deutsch" <
christopher0@attbi.com>
Subject:
Team3S: Hybrid OBD datalogging WAS: Possible product
Speaking of
which.
Has anyone tried hooking up a pocket logger for OBDI to a '94-'95
car? I
know the connector is OBDII style, but if the car is actually
OBDI (not sure
if it is, but it seems stupid to design an ECU that doesn't
support either)
then shouldn't you be able to just rearange the
pinouts?
I really want that knock sensor
info!
Christopher
> -----Original Message-----
> From:
owner-team3s@team3s.com
[mailto:owner-team3s@team3s.com]On Behalf
> Of Geddes, Brian J
>
Sent: Tuesday, March 12, 2002 2:44 PM
> To: 'Jannusch, Matt'; 'fastmax';
team3s@team3s.com> Subject: RE:
Team3S: Possible product
>
> With some custom software (or perhaps
the software that comes with it!),
> this could be the answer to
datalogging for us poor '94-'95 owners. Just
> tap into a few of the
lines running in/out of the ECU.
>
> I'm thinking I'll order one and
play around with it, as
> PocketLogger doesn't
> seem to have any
plans to support the OBD-I/II hybrid cars and I
> REALLY want
> to
have some decent data logging!!!
>
> - Brian
***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 12 Mar 2002 22:40:13
+0100
From: "Roger Gerl" <
roger.gerl@bluewin.ch>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: strange sound when car starts (link to a sound file
enclosed)
Sound like the accessories belt is slipping.
> The
sound is posted on the internet at the following address:
>
http://home.nc.rr.com/aamer/car/car.wav***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 12 Mar 2002 22:42:21
+0100
From: "Roger Gerl" <
roger.gerl@bluewin.ch>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Turbo hoses.
It doesn't matter where to connect what
hose.
> there are two outlets on the valve pl let me know which hose
goes to the
top
> and which goes to the bottom and where does the other
end go.
>
> Also wanting to install bleeder valve, which hose does
it fit on.?
Roger
93'3000GT TT
www.rtec.ch*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 12 Mar 2002 22:56:23
+0100
From: "Roger Gerl" <
roger.gerl@bluewin.ch>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Possible product
My offline/online logging device is able to
read 8 analogue channels and one
frequency. I do have a two or four row LCD
display with backlight (I just
can't find any amber lights !!) I also have an
EEPROM on board for offline
sampling. Online is realtime via RS232. It has
audible alarms for settable
limits, 4 values display simultaneous, two or
four bar graphs the same time
but makes no sense. Peak values of 8 channels
are stored. Water injection
control on RPM and boost level integrated (8
digital lines output). More
frequency inputs are needed. Couldn't find a good
keyboard and case and
amber backlight LCD.
- -10 samples per channel
per second is enough
- - Knock sensor logging doesn't help at all, a filter
device is needed !
Voltage doesn't say anything at all :-(
- - 4kb data
storage is enough for a quarter mile log
I never attached it to stock
sensors but to external temp, boost and
pressure sensors. Price for the PLC
kit with display is about $80, boost
sensor is $56 and some temp sensors
around $30. It is available in Germany
and I guess something like that can be
bought in the US too.
Roger
93'3000GT TT
www.rtec.ch- ----- Original Message
-----
From: "Jannusch, Matt" <
mjannusch@marketwatch.com>
To:
<
Team3S@stealth-3000gt.st>
Sent:
Monday, March 11, 2002 7:59 PM
Subject: Team3S: Possible product
>
Anyone interested in an LCD display that would do the following:
>
>
During cruise (based on throttle position) display two bargraphs of O2
>
voltage (one for each bank of cylinders), display RPM and display boost
>
pressure/vacuum.
>
> During TPS > 60% display exact O2 voltage
for both O2 sensors accurate to
> .001 volt, plus RPM, plus boost
pressure.
>
> The display would be small enough that it would fit
easily on top of the
> steering wheel shroud. It could also maybe
have warning LED's on it that
> would light up at something like less than
a certain voltage of O2 above a
> certain boost pressure or something like
that.
>
> I'm building one for myself, just wondering if anyone else
would be
> interested. I don't have the costs worked out yet, but it
should be under
> $200.
>
> There might be a possibility of
datalogging those parameters as well, but
> I'd be working on the more
basic version first. It could also be built
with
> a
vacuum-florescent display at higher cost also. It might be a
two-piece
> unit where the display would just be cabled to the master unit
with a
piece
> of RJ-11 phone cable so you could position it anywhere
and it would take
up
> very little space.
>
>
Interest? Comments?
>
> -Matt
> '95 3000GT Spyder
VR4
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 12 Mar 2002 16:15:38
-0600
From: "Black, Dave (ICT)" <
dblai@allstate.com>
Subject: Team3S:
Right-hand drive Stealth?
I get a lot of interesting questions from my
site but this one made me defer
to you guys....
Was the stealth ever
made in a right hand drive configuration like the
3000gt was?
I am in
Australia and I am looking for a car to import commercially as
Import laws
are getting harder and harder to import the 3000gt X-Japan and
the stealth is
the next option as the stealth was never sold here in
Australia. I am hoping
for right hand drive units as conversions are costly
and never go back
together the same way.
Anyone know?
Dave 95VR4
http://www.daveblack.net***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 12 Mar 2002 14:48:06
-0800
From: "fastmax" <
fastmax@cox.net>
Subject: Re: Team3S:
Front Strut Bar Clearing Motor Rocking - now 3SX Mounts and Engine
Movement
I have three of the four installed --- the rear mount is going
to have to wait
until I do my engine swap. I too am pleaded with the results
--- at idle it has
a bit of a motorcycle feel, but once the revs start to
climb it smoothes out and
feels fine. I'm not sure which version I got but
the material is almost rock
hard and one is aluminum with a urethane insert.
That engine ain't going
noplace!!!
>>for a set for you and his
prices are actually lower
>>than Satan's for a complete set.
In
all fairness, the stock isolation mounts are qute complex, funny openings
and
liquid filled plus Steve makes you provide your
cores.
Jim
Berry
===============================================
- ----- Original
Message -----
From: "Rick Pierce" <
piercera@pacbell.net>
> I've
got the 3SX motor mounts in my VR-4 and that engine does not move - at
>
all. I also have one of the "other" front strut bars - so far not
mentioned
> from Bryan Lim in San Diego and no matter what I do that
engine does not
> come close to hitting the bar, so I would second going
with the 3SX mounts.
> Also Steve does have two different compounds - the
first batch was
> considered too stiff for some (I think I have these in
my car) and Steve has
> switched to a softer compound. If you call
him though he will be glad to
> use the stiffer compound for a set for you
and his prices are actually lower
> than Satan's for a complete
set.
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 12 Mar 2002 18:01:01
EST
From:
Luckyslug@aol.comSubject: Team3S: 1999
body conversion
I have a 91 SL and for a long time ive been thinking
about doing the 99
conversion. I never knew it was as cheap to do as it is.
For those of you
that know, much work is involved? Is the bumber a basic
bolt on or does a lot
of body work need to be done? Thanks for your
help.
Steven
NAshville, TN
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 12 Mar 2002 18:07:33
-0500
From: "Zobel, Kurt" <
KURT.ZOBEL@ca.com>
Subject: RE:
Team3S: Power gain on WI/AI - was Water Injection Tuning (lon g)
Ah, but
it Cools the intake air, allowing better charge.
Where are the people who
have WI installed? Please speak up on Actaul Experience and Results at the Drag
Strip or Road Courses?
Kurt
- -----Original
Message-----
From: Geoff Mohler [mailto:gemohler@www.speedtoys.com]
Sent:
Thursday, March 07, 2002 3:16 PM
To: Black, Dave (ICT)
Cc: 'Roger Gerl';
Team3S List (E-mail)
Subject: Re: Team3S: Power gain on WI/AI - was Water
Injection Tuning
(long)
However, water doesnt burn. it will
displace a small amount of air..which
reduces your fuel
consumption.
On Thu, 7 Mar 2002, Black, Dave (ICT) wrote:
>
Roger,
>
> How is it that you will see no performance gain from
adding WI/AI? I would
> think the water/alcohol injection would
allow for more stable and efficient
> combustion and cooler temperatures
which would equate to slightly more
> power.
>
> Is this not
a correct assumption?
>
> Dave 95VR4
>
http://www.daveblack.net>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> > From: Roger Gerl
[SMTP:roger.gerl@bluewin.ch]
> > Sent: Monday, March 04, 2002 3:54
PM
> > To: Team3S List (E-mail)
> > Subject: Re: Team3S: Water
Injection Tuning (long)
> >
> > > to be a function of the
engine RPM and the boost pressure.
> >
> > Or TPS input
!
> >
> > > * Boost currently set at 0.8bar to 1.0bar on
the street
> > > * Would like to run 1.0bar on the track without
worries
> >
> > Very conserative :-)
> >
>
> > * Low Speed, High Underhood Temp Intercooling
> > > *
Higher RPM Intercooling
> > > * Detonation Prevention/Control at
higher than stock boost
> > >
> > > * Injector nozzle in
y-pipe right before throttle body
> >
> > Too close for any
intercooling purposes therefore it is only used to
> > control
>
> detonation.
> >
> > > Current Results:
> >
> No stumbling or apparent spark blow-out, no noticeable power loss due
to
> > > over-cooling, and no significant power gains
(butt-dyno).
> >
> > You will see no gain at all.
>
>
> > > Questions:
> > > 1) Comments on my choice of
activation point for the
> > > WI? (0.55bar/8psi)
> >
> > 0.8 bars is well enough
> >
> > > 2)
Comments on my current choice of RPM/flow curve?
> >
> >
Start to spray around 3500
> >
> > > 3) What should I
expect to feel (while driving) or
> > > see (on dyno graphs) if I
inject too much water?
> >
> > Too much water causes spark
blowout and hesitation.
> >
> > > 4) I've heard that the
way to tune WI is to increase
> > > the flow rate until you get some
power loss or
> > > stumbling and then back it off a little? Sound
right?
> >
> > Tune it to avoid knock or high EGT
>
>
> > Roger
> > 93'3000GT TT
> >
www.rtec.ch- ---
Geoff
Mohler
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 12 Mar 2002 17:14:51
-0600
From: "Jannusch, Matt" <
mjannusch@marketwatch.com>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: Power gain on WI/AI - was Water Injection Tuning (lon g)
>
Ah, but it Cools the intake air, allowing better charge.
> Where are the
people who have WI installed? Please speak up
> on Actaul Experience and
Results at the Drag Strip or Road Courses?
I have water injection and
have used it at the dragstrip. The car went a
bit slower (about .1
seconds) on the water until I increased boost and fuel
more.
It
doesn't significantly cool the air until the water flashes to vapor
during
the compression cycle. At that point, whatever air is going to
be
ingested by the motor is already there (and was "hot" during its
trip
through the valves). It'll cool in the chamber, but that doesn't
increase
intake efficiency. Its too late to get more air into the
motor.
- -Matt
'95 3000GT Spyder VR4
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 12 Mar 2002 15:16:29
-0800 (PST)
From: menalteed <
menalteed@yahoo.com>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: Right-hand drive Stealth?
I'm not sure if this helps but is this
a right hand
drive or what!
http://www.geocities.com/lutransys/jlucius5/j5-VR4cutawayabove.jpg***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 12 Mar 2002 16:34:09
-0700
From: Wayne <
whietala@prodigy.net>
Subject:
Team3S: Greddy BOV
What have people found to be a good adjustment point
on the allen screw?
(halfway, 3/4, etc)
Also, do you just leave the small
nipple open?
Wayne
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 12 Mar 2002 18:36:31
-0500
From: "Zobel, Kurt" <
KURT.ZOBEL@ca.com>
Subject: RE:
Team3S: Water Injection Tuning (long again)
Roger,
You mention
alcohol not having any effect on power.
This is a little hard to
believe. Was there any consideration (in alcohol
or water tests) to
increase timing advance both sooner and possibly more
than w/o the extra
injection?
Kurt
- -----Original Message-----
From: Roger Gerl
[mailto:roger.gerl@bluewin.ch]
Sent: Friday, March 08, 2002 2:41 AM
To:
team3S@stealth-3000gt.stSubject:
RE: Team3S: Water Injection Tuning (long again)
> Too close for
any intercooling purposes therefore it is only
> used to control
detonation.
>Is this really true? Surely there is *some*
intercooling going on when you
>inject near the throttle body??? I
read (on the internet, so it must be
>true) that injecting near the TB
actually increases the volumetric
>efficiency of the intake stroke because
the evaporation occurs in (or very
>close to the cylinder).
There
are three positions for water injection and one for water spray. The
later
can be used to spray onto the intercooler to increases its
efficiency. Comes
stock in the EVOs. For WI, the first position is infront
the throttle body.
This is for controlling detonation but it's sensible to
tune in and the
danger of flooding the chamber with water is there. Second
position is after
the intercooler, or in our case at the inlet of the
y-pipe mounted in a 90°
angle to the air stream. This allows detonation
control and intercooling
what is easy to be tuned and results in the best
effect. Third position is
before the intercooler. Spraying into the
intercooler decreases efficiency
of the cores due to precooling but is
necessary on cars where the IC sits on
hot positions like the Celica
ALLTRAC or the Ferrari GTO here in
Switzerland. The Intercoolers of them
are sitting on the engine in the back
and they always have to lower boost
due to the lack of intercooling. With
water injection before the IC the
problem is solved. This is not the case on
our cars.
>I agree that the TB position of the WI nozzle is not
optimal for
>intercooling, but I don't want the possibility of water
pooling in my
>intercoolers, so I decided not to inject farther upstream
near the
>intercoolers.
This is not a problem as the water will not
stay there. Remember, the
discharge temperature of a 13g at 15 psi is up to
141°C measured in the
rear IC piping when it enters to the soft pipe. The
goal is then to keep
the intake temperature below 69°C (don't know where
this figure comes from,
but I read it in a book somewhere). The hot
temperature will of course have
the ability to boil the water. But when
sprayed with a high power pump the
molecules are acting as a heat transfer.
The energy is absorbed by them and
then transported through the system to
the output. You can calculate the
air speed and the temperature and you will
notice that spraying before the
intercooler doesn't harm
anything.
>I expected little to no gain because the boost remains the
same. However,
>if there is any extra intercooling going on, then
I'd expect a small gain
in
>the region where intake temperatures
normally start to rise. Probably not
>enough to sense with the 'ol
butt-dyno, though :-)
The water is not able to absorb the energy (don't
know if I'm using the
right words) immediatly and therefore it needs a way
of travel until the
intercooling effect has taken place. Easier, it can be
explained that if
the jet sits :
1. infront the TB then the
most heat transfer is done in the chamber
(detonation control)
2. after
the intercooler (away from the TB) heat is absorbed during travel
and some
in the chamber (mixed control)
3. before the IC, no heat exchange is done in
the chamber but has some
downsides.
>Could you elaborate on why
you want to inject there, rather than, say
>2500RPM? Obviously you
don't need to inject when there's no boost, but I
>can get reasonable
boost a little before 3000 most of the time...
You must set this in
relation to the temperature that is existing in the
y-pipe. The water
injection in our cars should do two things : detonation
control and reducing
heat before the TB. First allows us to run more boost
without killing the
engine, second results in more power due to the denser
air what also
supports the first. Detonation control with water is like
running high
octane fuel of around 118 or even more.
Power comes from the A/F mixture
and not from the water. Therefore, if you
plan to run more boost, i.e. more
air, then you have to add more fuel too.
You can do this by spraying also
alcohol (methanol preferred) mixed with
the water into the system but this
is critical. The amount of additional
"fuel" cannot be controlled well
(unless you have an Aquamist System 2s)
and tuning is very complicated.
Experts in motorsport and rally technology
say that alcohol should only be
used in winter to prevent the water from
freezing. In fact I made some
datalog runs with and without alcohol and
zero difference was seen or
felt.
In cars where boost should not be increased above 1 bar, water
helps to
cool the discharge temperature. Otherwise the inlet temperature
seen are
around 93°C (y-pipe) at 1 bar what is to much to be good. With
water
injection I once brought it down to 38°C ... no joke. But I don't know
if
this also caused some overcooling. If there is more fuel needed one may
try
to run a 50/50 mixture with methanol and the power and O2 results must
be
checked. Maybe a boost increase can then be done but make sure the WI
system is correctly working well in all areas when it is
needed.
>works. I figure with my 0.8mm nozzle (330cc/min at 100%
IDC) maxed out,
>that will net me a water:fuel ratio of 15% or more and
should be sufficient
>to cause stumbling when the FI isn't at 100%
IDC. I guess I'll open 'er up
>and then back it off until I see no
stumbling or power loss.
I recall a max of 10% but can check back at home
as I have some files from
99 lying around.
>'95 car so no knock
sensor :-( EGT gauges sitting in my kitchen - I'll
have
>'em in
eventually :-) Until then, I have the butt-dyno and the Road
Dyno
to
>tune things - I'll keep it very conservative until I get the
gauges in.
Today I tune the WI systems to a max temperature of 69°C on
the dyno (have
it done on Nissans, Audi, and Celicas) as installing a probe
is easy.
I will try again to find the inlet temperature information to
back up this.
For a start I think it is not bad :)
Roger
93'3000GT
TT
www.rtec.ch*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 13 Mar 2002 00:40:21
+0100
From: "Roger Gerl" <
roger.gerl@bluewin.ch>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Greddy BOV
> What have people found to be a good
adjustment point on the allen screw?
> (halfway, 3/4, etc)
As it
is out of the box is ok.
> Also, do you just leave the small nipple
open?
Yes, no need to connect anything to it.
Roger
93'3000GT
TT
www.rtec.ch*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 12 Mar 2002 15:54:05
-0800
From: "Gross, Erik" <
erik.gross@intel.com>
Subject: RE:
Team3S: Greddy BOV
> What have people found to be a good adjustment
point on the
> allen screw? (halfway, 3/4, etc)
I had mine set
pretty tight (3-4 threads showing) for a while and recently
loosened it by 3
turns or so. It now lets a lot more air out, is louder,
and oscillates
less (used to get the WHOOSH Whoosh whoosh sound more often).
As I understand
it, the oscillations (with a non-sequential BPV) aren't
really great for the
turbos/engine, so that's why I loosened it up a bit.
> Also, do you
just leave the small nipple open?
It's not used in our application, but I
put a rubber vacuum cap on it just
to be sure. It's on there really
loose with no zip-tie, and it has never
blown off...
-
--Erik
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 13 Mar 2002 00:57:20
+0100
From: "Roger Gerl" <
roger.gerl@bluewin.ch>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Front Strut Bar ADMIN WARNING !!
Dear
members
Any flames from now on will cause IMMEDIATE removal from the
list. Also
nonsense to the list (keep the stuff private !) cannot be
tolerated anymore.
Please guys, some of the last mails where way off what
the list is meant for
! Personal flaming like comparisons with Bin Laden,
blabla, chatting ...
lots of what is wasting bandwith and not of any
use.
So please turn on the water-cooled home computer first before typing
the
next message non-privately.
Thanks for your help
Roger for the
admins
- ----- Original Message -----
From: "Floyd, Jim" <
Jim_Floyd@maxtor.com>
To: <
Team3S@stealth-3000gt.st>
Sent:
Wednesday, March 13, 2002 12:45 AM
Subject: RE: Team3S: Front Strut
Bar
> Bob,
>
> You've done it now.
> You'll be seen
as a pawn and/or sales rep of TEC and oppressor of
> the working
class.
> : )
>
> Stand by for major flaming.
> By the
time these guys get through with you bin Laden will seem like
> a
saint.
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 13 Mar 2002 01:10:46
+0100
From: "Roger Gerl" <
roger.gerl@bluewin.ch>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Water Injection Tuning (long again)
One should always look at
the complete package.
In my car and the others like Supra and GT FOUR, WI
with or without alcohol
did not resulted in more power on the dyno. It is no
question that it adds
kinda fuel to the mixture when used but we all know
that a too rich mixture
finally costs power. Also if mixed 50/50 how much
percentage of "fuel" is
added then ? How much cc/min are you spraying at 5000
rpm ? With this
information to the IDC measure at the same rpm gives you the
percentage.
Now with larger injectors and an airflow signal tweaker the
ignition timing
is advanced (although I still don't know why not that much in
my car, but it
seems to be a fact on others) Therefore somethign to control
detonation is
needed and this is water. Water has much higher latency to
transport heat
than alcohol and by mixing it with methanol you remove a lot
of this
feature. If the system is properly tuned in that water/alcohol is
sprayed at
WOT when needed and only then increases the amount of fuel due to
too small
injectors it is an alternative. But controlling this for the
different loads
and ambients is almost impossible so I'd leave the job to the
injectors.
Roger
93'3000GT TT
www.rtec.ch- ----- Original Message
-----
From: "Zobel, Kurt" <
KURT.ZOBEL@ca.com>
To: "Roger Gerl"
<
roger.gerl@bluewin.ch>; <
team3S@stealth-3000gt.st>
Sent:
Wednesday, March 13, 2002 12:36 AM
Subject: RE: Team3S: Water Injection
Tuning (long again)
Roger,
You mention alcohol not having any
effect on power.
This is a little hard to believe. Was there any
consideration (in alcohol
or water tests) to increase timing advance both
sooner and possibly more
than w/o the extra
injection?
Kurt
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 12 Mar 2002 19:37:17
-0600
From: RJM <
rjmsmail@swbell.net>
Subject:
Team3S: Error code 61(right front shock)on 94 3000gt SL
The ECS is
blinking tour-sport constantly and the computer says error
code 61 indicating
the "F.R.damping force changeover actuator is
defective" according to the
manual. The right front shock looks OK
except the black "cap" (under the
hood) is a bit loose, but it has been
loose for some time and wasn't all the
way off. Connection
looks good. Guess the shock is
failing???? I don't understand because
the TOUR ride seemed good, it is
the left driver's side shock that looks
like it may be leaking
slightly. I wonder if I will eventually ruin
these new tires, the
only difference in the ride, now always in SPORT
mode, is probably that the
bottoming
out" sound I sometimes here is more frequent. ANY IDEAS MUCH
APPRECIATED
on if it is time at 103,000
miles on original
shocks/struts?. I disconnected the negative terminal
on the battery
only to try and clear the code, should I have
disconnected the pos. side
(radio still kept the tuned stations). Also,
guess I should go with only
replacing the front or will the rear go out
soon too. Are the rear
cheaper as no struts? Also, can I do this
myself somehow being not too
mechanically inclined? Thanks again. Bob
***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 12 Mar 2002 17:44:54
-0800 (PST)
From: Geoff Mohler <
gemohler@www.speedtoys.com>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: Power gain on WI/AI - was Water Injection Tuning (lon
g)
Agreed. WI doesnt make more power, just allows for _more_
boost..if you
wanna play that game.
13 seconds at a time..ya..probly
wont hurt anything. 20min -->6hrs at a
time..well, wont catch me
upping boost past what I can safely run without
WI.
On Tue, 12 Mar
2002, Jannusch, Matt wrote:
> > Ah, but it Cools the intake air,
allowing better charge.
> > Where are the people who have WI
installed? Please speak up
> > on Actaul Experience and Results at the
Drag Strip or Road Courses?
>
> I have water injection and have
used it at the dragstrip. The car went a
> bit slower (about .1
seconds) on the water until I increased boost and fuel
> more.
>
> It doesn't significantly cool the air until the water flashes to
vapor
> during the compression cycle. At that point, whatever air is
going to be
> ingested by the motor is already there (and was "hot" during
its trip
> through the valves). It'll cool in the chamber, but that
doesn't increase
> intake efficiency. Its too late to get more air
into the motor.
>
> -Matt
> '95 3000GT Spyder VR4
-
---
Geoff Mohler
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 12 Mar 2002 17:57:26
-0800
From: "dakken" <
dougusmagnus@attbi.com>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Fun with Alignments
With all of these bad alignment shops why
don't more people do their own
alignments? Toe-in can be checked with a
$35 tool from JC Whitney and
camber and castor can be checked with a good
level gauge that gives you
degrees. You can even go cheap on the toe-in
tool and make one yourself
with a 8' 2x4, a couple of 90 degree joints and 2
wood clamps.
Doug
92 Stealth RT TT
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 12 Mar 2002 18:06:06
-0800
From: "fastmax" <
fastmax@cox.net>
Subject: Re: Team3S:
Power gain on WI/AI - was Water Injection Tuning (lon g)
That's why
a good boost controller has a scramble boost switch --- add
a few horsepower
for those moments you want to embarrass A
Viper.
Jim
Berry
==================================================
- -----
Original Message -----
From: "Geoff Mohler" <
gemohler@www.speedtoys.com>
>
Agreed. WI doesnt make more power, just allows for _more_ boost..if
you
> wanna play that game.
>
> 13 seconds at a
time..ya..probly wont hurt anything. 20min -->6hrs at a
>
time..well, wont catch me upping boost past what I can safely run
without
> WI.
>
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 12 Mar 2002 20:00:22
-0600
From: "
merritt@cedar-rapids.net" <
merritt@cedar-rapids.net>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Fun with Alignments
I've watched the alignment wizards at
Denny's Mufflers set up my car, and I wouldn't want to try a four-wheel
alignment manually. I watch the computer readout when they start fiddling with
toe, camber, castor, and all that. It's all interrelated, and it takes a wizard
to get it to all work together. Kinda like conducting a small orchestra. No
wonder Sears and Firestone can't figure it out.
Rich/slow old
poop/misaligned only in his mind.
At 05:57 PM 3/12/02 -0800, dakken
wrote:
>With all of these bad alignment shops why don't more people do
their own
>alignments? Toe-in can be checked with a $35 tool from JC
Whitney and
>camber and castor can be checked with a good level gauge that
gives you
>degrees. You can even go cheap on the toe-in tool and
make one yourself
>with a 8' 2x4, a couple of 90 degree joints and 2 wood
clamps.
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 12 Mar 2002 18:11:51
-0800 (PST)
From: Geoff Mohler <
gemohler@www.speedtoys.com>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Power gain on WI/AI - was Water Injection Tuning (lon
g)
I suppose..but still isnt for the style of racing im getting involved
in.
On Tue, 12 Mar 2002, fastmax wrote:
> That's why a good
boost controller has a scramble boost switch --- add
> a few horsepower
for those moments you want to embarrass A Viper.
>
> Jim Berry
>
==================================================
>
>
>
----- Original Message -----
> From: "Geoff Mohler" <
gemohler@www.speedtoys.com>
>
>
> > Agreed. WI doesnt make more power, just allows for
_more_ boost..if you
> > wanna play that game.
> >
>
> 13 seconds at a time..ya..probly wont hurt anything. 20min -->6hrs
at a
> > time..well, wont catch me upping boost past what I can safely
run without
> > WI.
- ---
Geoff Mohler
***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 12 Mar 2002 18:53:27
-0800
From: "fastmax" <
fastmax@cox.net>
Subject: Re: Team3S:
Power gain on WI/AI - was Water Injection Tuning (lon g)
Given a
properly designed system I don't really see a problem. You need
proper
function indictors so you don't run the system dry, or maybe the
propane
injection is a better answer. In either case I can eaisly see using
it in a
track application to suppliment race fuel, maybe not endurance
racing
where longevity is an issue though. As you said 6 hours at peak HP
would
certainly take it's toll on an engine. I don't really see it as any
different
than adding injectors to richen the A/F mixture. Just another tool
in the bag
of tricks.
Jim
Berry
=========================================================
***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 12 Mar 2002 21:42:41
-0600
From: "Oskar Persson" <
osk@attbi.com>
Subject: RE: Team3S:
Right-hand drive Stealth?
Take a closer look - That is a 3000GT
VR-4.
Oskar
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 12 Mar 2002 19:46:25
-0800 (PST)
From: Geoff Mohler <
gemohler@www.speedtoys.com>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Power gain on WI/AI - was Water Injection Tuning (lon
g)
No..you dont overengineer the basic system. WI is nice, its
insurance.
If you dont finish the race, you cant win.
On Tue, 12
Mar 2002, fastmax wrote:
> Given a properly designed system I don't
really see a problem. You need
> proper function indictors so you don't
run the system dry, or maybe the
> propane injection is a better answer.
In either case I can eaisly see using
> it in a track application to
suppliment race fuel, maybe not endurance
> racing where longevity is an
issue though. As you said 6 hours at peak HP
> would certainly take it's
toll on an engine. I don't really see it as any different
> than adding
injectors to richen the A/F mixture. Just another tool in the bag
> of
tricks.
>
> Jim
Berry
> =========================================================
-
---
Geoff Mohler
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 12 Mar 2002 22:40:32
-0000
From: "Sam Shelat" <
sshelat@erols.com>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: Front Strut Bar
At $125 for a new Cusco front bar (they
make one now) or 125-150 for a
solid 3si member built bars, I could not see
how or why you guys could
justify this $300 bar. However, if it fits
your idea of price versus
quality and it works, then its all good. I do
not need a strut bar I can
stand on and as far as I am concerned its not
meant to hold weight, but to
maintain the geometry of the towers which all of
the available bars do just
fine. The cusco bars are adjustable
which allows you to add some
pre-tension to the towers and is very noticeable
on the rear.
Sam
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 12 Mar 2002 19:54:25
-0700
From: "Mike & Cathy" <
micajoco@theofficenet.com>
Subject:
Team3S: parts for 60,000 mile
If anyone is interested in new timing
belt/water pump/tensioner e-mail me at
micajoco@theofficenet.
Mike S 92 rt
tt Wash St.
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 12 Mar 2002 21:59:14
-0600
From: "Oskar Persson" <
osk@attbi.com>
Subject: Team3S: Strut bars
available for 3/S cars
Could someone summarize the various strut bars
that are available for our
cars. Websites or contact info would also be
useful.
Thanks,
Oskar
'95 R/T TT w. rear Cusco bar
***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 12 Mar 2002 23:17:28
EST
From:
NETM1NDER@aol.comSubject: Re: Team3S:
Front Strut Bar
Hi this is Chris (tec) I have given all that info when I
first started But
everyone seems to have forgotten. I will give you a
brief look at my brace,
it is maid of 6061 T-6 Aluminum with .25" thick
mounts the brace is 5/8 x
1.5" CNC machined with pockets (slots) in front
& back for cooling of the
brace, + it comes with a custom made
adjustable battery bracket of the same
material & 316 S/S hardware is
welded & also has Gusset & the brace is Powder
Coated which I have 7
colors now?
I used software to design & engineer the brace it
allowed me to find all the
stress points & braking points under load
from the towers that is why I
agreed to put gussets under the bends like Jim
had first asked about. The
software convince me that it would be beneficial
but it also added cost. My
rear brace was made with the same software so you
are getting the strongest
possible. I also had engineer's where I was
working before confirm that this
was the best way & in their opinion the
price of the brace was cheap. It
coast me more than $150 to get these strut
tower braces made. Plus I have
step by step installation instructions on my
web to make it easier & you can
also call me I stand by my product,
& have proved it.
I offer a lot for what you pay. If I could get them
done cheaper I would as
long as the quality is the same or I would have to
make 500 or more I cannot
afford too.
I also spent a lot of time in
material searching, Finishing products &
patents to make sure I could do
this, it took me a long time. This is who I
am, these braces where well
thought of & this is what I went thru before I
made them.
I still have a patent pending & I do
not know if it will be accepted or
when yet.
All other info I cannot
give because of this.
PS Any brace you put will work at some extreme, I
just want to offer the best
that I can at a reasonable
price.
Chris
95VR4(tecperformance.com)
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 12 Mar 2002 23:23:50
-0000
From: "Sam Shelat" <
sshelat@erols.com>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: Front Strut Bar Clearing Motor Rocking
Sound slike you need the
3sx polyurethane bushings! Thats on my list of
things to buy when I
start my engine work.
Sam
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 12 Mar 2002 20:33:34
-0800
From: "fastmax" <
fastmax@cox.net>
Subject: Team3S:
FMIC
FWIW --- there's a group buy for a FMIC and hard pipes going on at
the
3si.org site. Cost is $1700 plus shipping --- seems like a good deal so
I
signed up. The thread shown below is a follow up to the original thread
which
is quite a bit longer --- do a search for tvr-4 as the originator of
the original
thread if you're interested.
http://www.3si.org/vbb/showthread.php?s=50265e6cc76f4a06764b0333da4960dd&threadid=68466***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 12 Mar 2002 20:38:55
-0800
From: "fastmax" <
fastmax@cox.net>
Subject: Re: Team3S:
5mm spacers
I have a camber gauge, if I get ambitious I'll try to measure
the camber
with the wheel turned. For my next trick I'm going to find out
what
Ackerman is and why I don't want any. I'd like to know more
about
suspension setups but it seems like we have so little control over it
that
it's not worth the
effort.
Jim
Berry
=================================================
- -----
Original Message -----
From: <
pvg1@daimlerchrysler.com>
To:
<
team3s@team3s.com>
Cc:
"fastmax" <
fastmax@cox.net>; "Henri
Le Hir" <
hlehir@lucent.com>
Sent: Tuesday,
March 12, 2002 6:58 AM
Subject: Re: Team3S: 5mm spacers
OOPS! I
exaggerated my statement a little. I went outside myself to look at
the
turned out wheels again and the outside wheel is not as bad as I though
it
was. I did not measure anything but it looks like it does not have much
of a
positive camber when turned into the turn. But I could not see much of
the
expected negative camber either, given the 6º of caster. The inside
wheel, on
the other hand, is obviously leaning into the turn a lot. This is
due to 6º
caster together with the angle that I was describing
earlier.
Philip
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 12 Mar 2002 20:59:47
-0800 (PST)
From: Geoff Mohler <
gemohler@www.speedtoys.com>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: FMIC
You road racers might want to make double sure you wont
have heating
issues on the stock radiator..this is why our project (now
waynes) got a
huge upgrade).
Even the relatively small FMIC on the
celica is causing airflow problems
at the track, and I have two secondary
slits to get air from that a 3S
doesnt..
On Tue, 12 Mar 2002, fastmax
wrote:
> FWIW --- there's a group buy for a FMIC and hard pipes going
on at the
> 3si.org site. Cost is $1700 plus shipping --- seems like a
good deal so I
> signed up. The thread shown below is a follow up to the
original thread which
> is quite a bit longer --- do a search for tvr-4
as the originator of the original
> thread if you're interested.
>
>
http://www.3si.org/vbb/showthread.php?s=50265e6cc76f4a06764b0333da4960dd&threadid=68466-
---
Geoff Mohler
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 12 Mar 2002 23:01:46
-0600
From: "Oskar Persson" <
osk@attbi.com>
Subject: RE: Team3S: Strut
bars available for 3/S cars
I am actually just looking for a list - no
opinions. It appears that there
are now several manufacturers.
Does anyone know who they all are?
Kind of like this:
Company A
www.blablabla.comCompany B
www.blablabla.cometc..
Thanks,
Oskar
-
-----Original Message-----
From:
owner-team3s@team3s.com
[mailto:owner-team3s@team3s.com]On Behalf
Of Oskar Persson
Sent: Tuesday,
March 12, 2002 9:59 PM
To:
Team3S@stealth-3000gt.stSubject:
Team3S: Strut bars available for 3/S cars
Could someone summarize the
various strut bars that are available for our
cars. Websites or contact
info would also be useful.
Thanks,
Oskar
'95 R/T TT w. rear Cusco
bar
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 12 Mar 2002 21:08:30
-0800
From: "fastmax" <
fastmax@cox.net>
Subject: Re: Team3S:
Front Strut Bar - Alternatives
There is also a tremendous amount of
misinformation over there --- I am at
times amazed at what is passed of as
fact. A lot of the better information I
read is from people that are also
members of this list. On several occasions I've
been accused of being to
negative for providing accurate information as to
why something can or can't
be done. The most recent example was the thread
on how much we need the
GT-Pro 399 turbos --- LOL, there are people who
think they would be great for
a street car.
Keep in mind when reading these lists --- you get what you
pay for, sometimes
you get crap sometimes you get good
info.
Jim
Berry
=======================================================
- -----
Original Message -----
From: "Sam Shelat" <
sshelat@erols.com>
> Since we
are all being honest here, I have to add one more unsettling
> reminder to
some of the members here who find it difficult not to slam the
> 3si site
and its members. I have been a list member for a couple years and
>
-------snip--------
> Sam
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 12 Mar 2002 21:12:58
-0800
From: "fastmax" <
fastmax@cox.net>
Subject: Re: Team3S:
FMIC
That is a concern ---- I haven't had any overheat problems and I see
somebody is selling a dual pass aluminum radiator for the car.
What's
another $500 or so to someone of my immense
wealth.
Jim
Berry
==================================================
- -----
Original Message -----
From: "Geoff Mohler" <
gemohler@www.speedtoys.com>
>
You road racers might want to make double sure you wont have heating
>
issues on the stock radiator..this is why our project (now waynes) got a
>
huge upgrade).
>
> Even the relatively small FMIC on the celica is
causing airflow problems
> at the track, and I have two secondary slits to
get air from that a 3S
> doesnt..
>
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 12 Mar 2002 22:28:24
-0700
From: Wayne <
whietala@prodigy.net>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: FMIC
I have to agree with Geoff, i don't think a FMIC is worth
the extra money,
considering a radiator upgrade will also be
needed.
I challenge anybody to provide proof that a huge oversized FMIC
provides
more power or flow than a good set of side mounts such as the
Alamos or HKS.
They sure look good though, huh??
Wayne
At
09:12 PM 3/12/02 -0800, fastmax wrote:
>That is a concern ---- I haven't
had any overheat problems and I see
>somebody is selling a dual pass
aluminum radiator for the car. What's
>another $500 or so to someone of my
immense wealth.
>
>
Jim
Berry
>==================================================
***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 13 Mar 2002 00:59:22
-0500
From: Dave Miller <
dmille1@LEECA.ORG>
Subject: Team3S:
Help -- Lots of Smoke
Hi all. I'm hoping some of you will be
willing to share your expertise with
me. Driving today and suddenly
smoke begins to appear in my rear view mirror.
As I drove further, it
got worse until I seemed to provide quite a smoke
cloud! There is no
smell of antifreeze, so I'm pretty sure its an oil
problem.
The
pattern is as follows:
- - Heavy smoke at idle. At first, its
light. After 10 - 15 seconds, its gets
pretty thick.
- -
Moderate smoke during excelleration. The heavier the excelleration, the
more smoke, but still not a thick as at idle (or at least it doesn't appear
so, but perhaps because your moving?)
- - Slight to no smoke at
constant speed on the highway. (unless you gun it)
I've looked
through the archives and so far, it seems like it could be one of
several
items:
1) EGR Valve defective (hoping for)
2) Defective
valve seals (trying to avoid)
3) Defective
turbo (Oh the Money!)
4) Defective
rings (Hope not, remote, but thought I'd
include)
Can anyone share the best way to determine the cause? Here
are some initial
thoughts I have, but I'm really looking for a diagnostic
procedure to
determine the cause.
- -- Is there a way to bypass the
EGR valve for diagnostics?
- -- If I find oil in the turbo intake pipes, what
does this indicate?
- -- If I pull the exhaust downpipe and only see smoke
from one side of the
engine, this should tell me which side of the engine
its coming from, but is
there any way to tell if its the valve seal or the
turbo?
Thanks in advance everyone!
Dave Miller
1991 Dodge
Stealth RT TT
Dave Miller
Lorain County Distance Learning Consortium
Project Manager
(440) 324-5777 ext 195 Office
(440)
610-0782
Mobile
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 12 Mar 2002 21:58:55
-0800
From: "fastmax" <
fastmax@cox.net>
Subject: Re: Team3S:
FMIC
Lookin good is part of the package ;-)
I
disagree, If I want to run 18 or 20 psi on a road track I'm going to have
to
keep the intake charge cool ---- cool air to the MAS as in air scoop,
a good
front mount and water/propane injection. As to the additional costs
hell I'm
already up to the $10k mark for the engine so a mere 500 more
is
peanuts. :-(
I realize some of the best ¼ mile times are with
side mounts but road racing
has a much greater tendency to heat soak the IC's
--- besides I want to convert
to the 99 front end and use the side vents for
brake cooling. All I lack is
money.
Jim Berry
-
----- Original Message -----
From: "Wayne" <
whietala@prodigy.net>
> I
have to agree with Geoff, i don't think a FMIC is worth the extra money,
>
considering a radiator upgrade will also be needed.
>
> I challenge
anybody to provide proof that a huge oversized FMIC provides
> more power
or flow than a good set of side mounts such as the Alamos or
HKS.
>
> They sure look good though, huh??
>
>
Wayne
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 12 Mar 2002 22:05:15
-0800
From: "fastmax" <
fastmax@cox.net>
Subject: Re: Team3S:
Help -- Lots of Smoke
The sudden onset of lots of smoke might indicate a
seal on the turbo. I'd
assume you'd get a lot of oil in the IC pipes --- at
least that's easy to check.
Head gasket can also cause sudden failure and
lots of white steam, although
you can usually smell the
difference.
Jim
Berry
====================================================
- -----
Original Message -----
From: "Dave Miller" <
dmille1@LEECA.ORG>
> Hi
all. I'm hoping some of you will be willing to share your expertise with
> me. Driving today and suddenly smoke begins to appear in my rear
view mirror.
> As I drove further, it got worse until I seemed to
provide quite a smoke
> cloud! There is no smell of antifreeze, so
I'm pretty sure its an oil
> problem.
>
> The pattern is as
follows:
>
> - Heavy smoke at idle. At first, its
light. After 10 - 15 seconds, its gets
> pretty thick.
>
> - Moderate smoke during excelleration. The heavier the
excelleration, the
> more smoke, but still not a thick as at idle (or at
least it doesn't appear
> so, but perhaps because your moving?)
>
> - Slight to no smoke at constant speed on the highway. (unless
you gun it)
>
> I've looked through the archives and so far, it
seems like it could be one of
> several items:
>
> 1) EGR
Valve defective (hoping for)
> 2) Defective valve seals
(trying to avoid)
> 3) Defective turbo
(Oh the Money!)
> 4) Defective rings
(Hope not, remote, but thought I'd include)
>
> Can anyone share
the best way to determine the cause? Here are some initial
>
thoughts I have, but I'm really looking for a diagnostic procedure to
>
determine the cause.
>
> -- Is there a way to bypass the EGR valve
for diagnostics?
> -- If I find oil in the turbo intake pipes, what does
this indicate?
> -- If I pull the exhaust downpipe and only see smoke from
one side of the
> engine, this should tell me which side of the engine
its coming from, but is
> there any way to tell if its the valve seal or
the turbo?
>
> Thanks in advance everyone!
>
> Dave
Miller
> 1991 Dodge Stealth RT TT
>
> Dave Miller
>
Lorain County Distance Learning Consortium Project Manager
> (440)
324-5777 ext 195 Office
> (440)
610-0782
Mobile
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 13 Mar 2002 07:05:42
-0500
From: "Furman, Russell" <
RFurman2@MassMutual.com>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: FMIC
Combining a bunch of replys into one
here.........
Wayne and anyone else,
fact one FMIC has a larger
frontal surface area exposed DIRECTLY to the
airstream
Fact 2,
this large of a core is less likely to get heat soaked compared to a
pair of
side mounts and if it does manage to get heat soaked its gonna take
a hell of
a alot longer for it to happen.
Fact 3, the reason our cars have
cooling problems is due to the fucking
peace of shit that is placed in front
of the factory radiator (my 93 has it
and I saw a 95 Spyder with it)
Just look at you radiator from above with
the hood open and just in front of
it appears to another core for
something...... Anyone want
to shed some light on this one.
Pardon language on the last
part but if I hear any more whining about how
bad we are getting screwed all
over the place I am gonna go postal. Either
be part of the solution or "quit
yer bitchin" Prime example is the link
that was sent out to PPE home
page and their FMIC the core is a Spearco
(one of the most efficient
cores out there FACT) and the price is cheaper
than any of the others and
about 1K cheaper than the GT-PRO. So there are
solutions we just have
take our thumbs out from our bottoms and not expect
things to be handed to us
like the rest of the high end imports do.
I will get down off my
soap box for now...........
Russ F
CT
***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 13 Mar 2002 07:09:17
-0500
From: "Furman, Russell" <
RFurman2@MassMutual.com>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: Help -- Lots of Smoke
Dave is the car running funny (keeps
stalling etc.....) I would say check to see if an IC pipe poppped off then got
with the other suggestions previously posted.
- -----Original
Message-----
From: Dave Miller
Sent: Wed 3/13/2002 12:59 AM
To:
Team3S@stealth-3000gt.st Cc:
Subject: Team3S: Help -- Lots of Smoke
Hi all. I'm hoping some of you
will be willing to share your expertise with
me. Driving today and suddenly
smoke begins to appear in my rear view mirror.
As I drove further, it got
worse until I seemed to provide quite a smoke
cloud! There is no smell of
antifreeze, so I'm pretty sure its an oil
problem.
The pattern is as
follows:
- - Heavy smoke at idle. At first, its light. After 10 - 15
seconds, its gets
pretty thick.
- - Moderate smoke during
excelleration. The heavier the excelleration, the
more smoke, but still not
a thick as at idle (or at least it doesn't appear
so, but perhaps because
your moving?)
- - Slight to no smoke at constant speed on the highway.
(unless you gun it)
I've looked through the archives and so far, it
seems like it could be one of
several items:
1) EGR Valve defective
(hoping for)
2) Defective valve seals (trying to avoid)
3) Defective
turbo (Oh the Money!)
4) Defective rings (Hope not, remote, but thought I'd
include)
Can anyone share the best way to determine the cause? Here are
some initial
thoughts I have, but I'm really looking for a diagnostic
procedure to
determine the cause.
- -- Is there a way to bypass the
EGR valve for diagnostics?
- -- If I find oil in the turbo intake pipes,
what does this indicate?
- -- If I pull the exhaust downpipe and only see
smoke from one side of the
engine, this should tell me which side of the
engine its coming from, but is
there any way to tell if its the valve seal
or the turbo?
Thanks in advance everyone!
Dave Miller
1991
Dodge Stealth RT TT
Dave Miller
Lorain County Distance Learning
Consortium Project Manager
(440) 324-5777 ext 195 Office
(440) 610-0782
Mobile
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 13 Mar 2002 07:30:46
-0600
From: "cody" <
overclck@satx.rr.com>
Subject: RE:
Team3S: 1999 body conversion
No bodywork, however, some cutting of the
metal headlight buckets is
involved. I have pictures if you would like
to see.
- -Cody
- -----Original Message-----
>I have a 91 SL
and for a long time ive been thinking about doing the 99
>conversion. I
never knew it was as cheap to do as it is. For those of
you
>that know,
much work is involved? Is the bumber a basic bolt on or
does
a
lot
>of body work need to be done? Thanks for your
help.
>
>Steven
>NAshville, TN
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 13 Mar 2002 07:32:55
-0600
From: "cody" <
overclck@satx.rr.com>
Subject: RE:
Team3S: FMIC
A/C Condenser.
- -Cody
Fact 3, the reason our
cars have cooling problems is due to the fucking
peace of shit that is placed
in front of the factory radiator (my 93 has
it
and I saw a 95 Spyder with
it) Just look at you radiator from above
with
the hood open and just
in front of it appears to another core for
something......
Anyone want to shed some light on this one.
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 13 Mar 2002 07:35:04
-0600
From: "cody" <
overclck@satx.rr.com>
Subject: RE:
Team3S: Front Strut Bar - Alternatives
I agree with that one. I
read sooooo much crap over there, its not even
funny. Over here, 98% is
good info, we just tend to focus on more
road-racing type stuff. Thing
is, you really need both...
- -Cody
- -----Original
Message-----
From:
owner-team3s@team3s.com
[mailto:owner-team3s@team3s.com] On Behalf
Of fastmax
Sent: Tuesday, March
12, 2002 11:09 PM
To: Sam Shelat;
jeffv@1nce.com; Team3s Tech List; Floyd,
Jim
Subject: Re: Team3S: Front Strut Bar - Alternatives
There is also
a tremendous amount of misinformation over there --- I am
at
times amazed
at what is passed of as fact. A lot of the better
information I
read is
from people that are also members of this list. On several
occasions
I've
been accused of being to negative for providing accurate information
as
to
why something can or can't be done. The most recent example was
the
thread
on how much we need the GT-Pro 399 turbos --- LOL, there are
people who
think they would be great for a street car.
Keep in mind
when reading these lists --- you get what you pay for,
sometimes
you get
crap sometimes you get good
info.
Jim
Berry
=======================================================
- -----
Original Message -----
From: "Sam Shelat" <
sshelat@erols.com>
> Since we are
all being honest here, I have to add one more unsettling
> reminder to
some of the members here who find it difficult not to slam
the
> 3si
site and its members. I have been a list member for a couple
years
and
--snip--
