Team3S: 3000GT & Stealth    Monday, March 11 2002    Volume 01 : Number 779




----------------------------------------------------------------------

Date: Mon, 11 Mar 2002 14:14:27 -0500
From: "Darren Schilberg" <dschilberg@pobox.com>
Subject: RE: Team3S: 300-320 Hp 1993 to 1994

Seeing that a change of 4 psi or so of boost (and other small changes
noted in the thread) resulted in about a 20 hp increase.  Is there some
general guideline to what horsepower gain people are seeing with an
electronic or manual boost controller on their car?  Like 320 stock
(with second gen assumed 12 psi boost) and then add a boost controller
maintaining 15 psi.  Another increase of 3 psi.  Is that going to be
another 20 horsepower, only 5 horsepower, or 40 horsepower?

Is this something that is read easier from a graph (I imagine the higher
horsepower you get the more boost (and fuel, air, etc.) you need so it
is a curve that gets steeper (more boost needed) the more horsepower you
get)?

- --Flash!

- -----Original Message-----
From: Chris Winkley
Sent: Monday, March 11, 2002 13:10
 
Are you guys sure about that (a boost control solenoid change adding
20hp)? I would swear there was a camshaft profile change in 1994 (along
with 4 bolt main bearings, 6 speed, etc.).

***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 11 Mar 2002 11:37:07 -0800 (PST)
From: Geoff Mohler <gemohler@www.speedtoys.com>
Subject: RE: Team3S: Brake'er, Brake'er, Gtech Competition

Sweet..been wondering what 6pot 14" calipers on a 3200lb car would rear
anyway.

On Mon, 11 Mar 2002, Zobel, Kurt wrote:

> Zero it like a qtr mile, then just hit the brakes anytime over 60mph.
> Once stopped the Gtech will alternate display; 0-60 secs acceleration and
> 60-0 feet to stop.
>
> Kurt
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Geoff Mohler [mailto:gemohler@www.speedtoys.com]
> Sent: Friday, March 08, 2002 8:12 PM
> To: Zobel, Kurt
> Cc: Team3S@stealth-3000gt.st
> Subject: RE: Team3S: Brake'er, Brake'er, Gtech Competition
>
>
> Cool..how do you set it up for that?
>
> On Fri, 8 Mar 2002, Zobel, Kurt wrote:
>
> > OK Guys,
> > Let's see some Gtech braking info.  Then we can bitch about those too.
> >
> > Let's try to get some numbers for different brake setups, and see what
> > works.
> > Include tire and suspension mods, as they will factor in too.
> >
> > Kurt
> >
> > -----Original Message-----
> > From: Jon Bohlke [mailto:bohlke_mobile@yahoo.com]
> > Sent: Monday, March 04, 2002 9:28 AM
> > To: Team3S@stealth-3000gt.st
> > Subject: Re: Team3S: Gtech Competition
> >
> >
> > My friend and I have wondered about the accuracy and precision of the
> > Gtech pro.  Since there has been a bit of dicussion about it here I
> > thought I would share the results of his test.  He took the Gtech with
> > him to the dragstrip at Maple Grove.  He ran 4-5 times that day and said
> > that the G-Tech was accurate on the ET but was optimistic on the speed.
> > I think he said that the Gtech was within .1s of the ET reported on the
> > timeslip in each run.  He drives a C5 but I don't hold that against him
> > :) , though I am not sure that it makes a difference what type of car
> > you use to test the Gtech.
> >
> > Jon
> > 98 Pearl White VR4
> > http://3000gt.websnout.com

- ---
Geoff Mohler

***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 11 Mar 2002 11:37:18 -0800 (PST)
From: Jeff Lucius <stealthman92@yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: Team3S: 300-320 Hp 1993 to 1994

The factory-stated "supercharging pressure" for 1st gen is 8.7 psi
and for 2nd gen is 10 psi, with rated bhp going from 300 to 320.
Using that as a model, the following simple, linear predictions might
be implied.

boost bhp
 8.7  300
10.0  320
11.3  340
12.6  360
13.9  380
15.2  400
16.5  420
17.8  440

Unless of course you are using the dyno at AAM, then 18 psi boost
nets you a 600 HP engine! :)

But seriously, the above predictions *might* apply to a stock motor.
Once VE is improved, *less* boost nets you *more* power (compared to
stock).

Jeff Lucius, http://www.stealth316.com/

- ----- Original Message -----
From: "Darren Schilberg" <dschilberg@pobox.com>
To: "'Team3S'" <Team3S@stealth-3000gt.st>
Sent: Monday, March 11, 2002 12:14 PM
Subject: RE: Team3S: 300-320 Hp 1993 to 1994

Seeing that a change of 4 psi or so of boost (and other small changes
noted in the thread) resulted in about a 20 hp increase.  Is there
some general guideline to what horsepower gain people are seeing with
an electronic or manual boost controller on their car?  Like 320
stock
(with second gen assumed 12 psi boost) and then add a boost
controller
maintaining 15 psi.  Another increase of 3 psi.  Is that going to be
another 20 horsepower, only 5 horsepower, or 40 horsepower?

Is this something that is read easier from a graph (I imagine the
higher horsepower you get the more boost (and fuel, air, etc.) you
need so it is a curve that gets steeper (more boost needed) the more
horsepower you get)?

- --Flash!

***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 11 Mar 2002 14:40:45 -0500
From: "Furman, Russell" <RFurman2@MassMutual.com>
Subject: RE: Team3S: 300-320 Hp 1993 to 1994

Jeff, as I am sure you are very well aware it is not just the boost PSI that
nets the power but also the CFM of air at that particular PSI that makes the
horsepower.  And just look at the size of the monsters bolted to that motor
and look at the lag.........  Great for a track car but on a daily driven
car takes too long to really get going.

> -----Original Message-----
> From: Jeff Lucius [SMTP:stealthman92@yahoo.com]
> Sent: Monday, March 11, 2002 2:37 PM
> To: Team3S@stealth-3000gt.st
> Subject: Re: Team3S: 300-320 Hp 1993 to 1994
>
> The factory-stated "supercharging pressure" for 1st gen is 8.7 psi
> and for 2nd gen is 10 psi, with rated bhp going from 300 to 320.
> Using that as a model, the following simple, linear predictions might
> be implied.
>
> boost bhp
>  8.7  300
> 10.0  320
> 11.3  340
> 12.6  360
> 13.9  380
> 15.2  400
> 16.5  420
> 17.8  440
>
> Unless of course you are using the dyno at AAM, then 18 psi boost
> nets you a 600 HP engine! :)
>
> But seriously, the above predictions *might* apply to a stock motor.
> Once VE is improved, *less* boost nets you *more* power (compared to
> stock).
>
> Jeff Lucius, http://www.stealth316.com/
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Darren Schilberg" <dschilberg@pobox.com>
> To: "'Team3S'" <Team3S@stealth-3000gt.st>
> Sent: Monday, March 11, 2002 12:14 PM
> Subject: RE: Team3S: 300-320 Hp 1993 to 1994
>
> Seeing that a change of 4 psi or so of boost (and other small changes
> noted in the thread) resulted in about a 20 hp increase.  Is there
> some general guideline to what horsepower gain people are seeing with
> an electronic or manual boost controller on their car?  Like 320
> stock
> (with second gen assumed 12 psi boost) and then add a boost
> controller
> maintaining 15 psi.  Another increase of 3 psi.  Is that going to be
> another 20 horsepower, only 5 horsepower, or 40 horsepower?
>
> Is this something that is read easier from a graph (I imagine the
> higher horsepower you get the more boost (and fuel, air, etc.) you
> need so it is a curve that gets steeper (more boost needed) the more
> horsepower you get)?
>
> --Flash!

***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 11 Mar 2002 14:47:59 -0500
From: "Darren Schilberg" <dschilberg@pobox.com>
Subject: RE: Team3S: 300-320 Hp 1993 to 1994

Jeff,

   Thanks for the numbers but just like the max top speed in a gear
graph this is totally inaccurate I bet.  The graph on your page shows
that 6th gear can go well over 200 mph.  I don't think anyone has ever
had a 3/S over that speed and thought that 5th speed was the highest
speed gear.
   So boost is not the only thing and air, fuel, spark, etc. needs
increased.  I had a manual boost controller on stock 9B turbos and
second gen car.  I dialed it the wrong way one time and under WOT in 3rd
gear saw 21 psi.  Oops.  I doubt that meant I had 500 hp going since I
believe it is impossible to get 500 hp from stock turbos, stock
injectors, K&N, stock fuel pump, etc.  Maybe not.  I don't think anyone
has done it.
   But the boost was definitely that high but I bet most of it was
leaking out the BOV or the boost controller vent hole or something.
Maybe I should donate that controller to AAM since it yielded 500 hp (an
increase of 180 hp) for only $35.  =)

Thoughts?

- --Flash!

- -----Original Message-----
From: Jeff Lucius
Sent: Monday, March 11, 2002 14:37
 
The factory-stated "supercharging pressure" for 1st gen is 8.7 psi
and for 2nd gen is 10 psi, with rated bhp going from 300 to 320.
Using that as a model, the following simple, linear predictions might
be implied.

boost bhp
 8.7  300
10.0  320
11.3  340
12.6  360
13.9  380
15.2  400
16.5  420
17.8  440

Unless of course you are using the dyno at AAM, then 18 psi boost
nets you a 600 HP engine! :)

But seriously, the above predictions *might* apply to a stock motor.
Once VE is improved, *less* boost nets you *more* power (compared to
stock).

***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 11 Mar 2002 14:02:14 -0600
From: "Christopher Deutsch" <christopher0@attbi.com>
Subject: RE: Team3S: Possible product

Definitely interested!  If you need software written for data logging let me
know.

Are you planning on using a Wideband O2 sensor, like the one from that
environmental Honda that they use on the EFI DIY page?

Christopher

> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-team3s@team3s.com [mailto:owner-team3s@team3s.com]On Behalf
> Of Jannusch, Matt
> Sent: Monday, March 11, 2002 1:00 PM
> To: Team3S@stealth-3000gt.st
> Subject: Team3S: Possible product
>
>
> Anyone interested in an LCD display that would do the following:
>
> During cruise (based on throttle position) display two bargraphs of O2
> voltage (one for each bank of cylinders), display RPM and display boost
> pressure/vacuum.
>
> During TPS > 60% display exact O2 voltage for both O2 sensors accurate to
> .001 volt, plus RPM, plus boost pressure.
>
> The display would be small enough that it would fit easily on top of the
> steering wheel shroud.  It could also maybe have warning LED's on it that
> would light up at something like less than a certain voltage of O2 above a
> certain boost pressure or something like that.
>
> I'm building one for myself, just wondering if anyone else would be
> interested.  I don't have the costs worked out yet, but it should be under
> $200.
>
> There might be a possibility of datalogging those parameters as well, but
> I'd be working on the more basic version first.  It could also be
> built with
> a vacuum-florescent display at higher cost also.  It might be a two-piece
> unit where the display would just be cabled to the master unit
> with a piece
> of RJ-11 phone cable so you could position it anywhere and it
> would take up
> very little space.
>
> Interest?  Comments?
>
> -Matt
> '95 3000GT Spyder VR4

***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 11 Mar 2002 12:05:14 -0800
From: "ek2mfg" <ek2mfg@foxinternet.com>
Subject: RE: Team3S: Front Strut Bar

I have a 93 R/T with sunroof and I have to modify the metal brackets
under the plastic trim to let the round style cusco fit...maybe a
diff between stealth and 3000 but it must be done no matter how it
will fit in the rear...I have tried several options...If I want the
metal bracket that keeps the sunroom mounted solid to the frame then
it is a must......just a very small notch but a MUST none the less.

bobk.

- ---- Original Message ----
From: erik.gross@intel.com
To: Jim_Floyd@maxtor.com, dschilberg@pobox.com,
>Team3S@stealth-3000gt.st
Subject: RE: Team3S: Front Strut Bar
Date: Mon, 11 Mar 2002 09:52:37 -0800

>> I have no idea why anyone would design a strut tower bar with
>> anything less than the maximum support between the strut
>> towers. Maybe for a lower selling price ?
>
>How about adjustability?
>
>BTW, in response to Flash's question, yes, the (round) Cusco rear
>strut
>tower brace will allow storing the removable glass sunroof in the
>stock
>location with the brace installed.
>
>Note: some of the pictures are of my base model 3000GT (white), but
>there
>are also some pictures of my VR-4 (black).
>http://www.team3s.com/~egross/3000GT/RearStrutBar/RearStrutBar.html
>
>--Erik
>'95 VR-4

***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 11 Mar 2002 14:13:45 -0600
From: "Jannusch, Matt" <mjannusch@marketwatch.com>
Subject: RE: Team3S: 300-320 Hp 1993 to 1994

>    Thanks for the numbers but just like the max top speed in
> a gear graph this is totally inaccurate I bet.  The graph on
> your page shows that 6th gear can go well over 200 mph.  I
> don't think anyone has ever had a 3/S over that speed and
> thought that 5th speed was the highest speed gear.

If you had enough horsepower, you could go over 200 mph.  It isn't that the
graph is inaccurate, its just that nobody has the power to pull it in 6th
gear.

>    So boost is not the only thing and air, fuel, spark, etc.
> needs increased.  I had a manual boost controller on stock 9B
> turbos and second gen car.  I dialed it the wrong way one
> time and under WOT in 3rd gear saw 21 psi.  Oops.  I doubt
> that meant I had 500 hp going since I believe it is
> impossible to get 500 hp from stock turbos, stock injectors,
> K&N, stock fuel pump, etc.  Maybe not.  I don't think anyone
> has done it.

You can't sustain that boost pressure high enough in the rev range to get
500 HP out of it, but you probably had really good torque in the midrange
for that one pull if timing didn't get pulled out right away.

- -Matt
'95 3000GT Spyder VR4

***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 11 Mar 2002 14:17:14 -0600
From: "Jannusch, Matt" <mjannusch@marketwatch.com>
Subject: RE: Team3S: Possible product

> Definitely interested!  If you need software written for data
> logging let me know.

I figured that I'd just provide an RS-232 interface to dump the raw data to
a laptop running some sort of terminal software and then you could look at
it later in Excel.

> Are you planning on using a Wideband O2 sensor, like the one
> from that environmental Honda that they use on the EFI DIY page?

Just the stock O2 sensors.  Wideband is expen$ive, $250 a piece for the
Honda one you mentioned.  They also require that you share your designs with
them if you use their information/design.  Not sure that's what I'm looking
for.

Just trying to make something simple to solve the problem of having gauges
strewn all over the interior of my car.  :-)

If you were to build one of their DIY-widebands, my gauge design could be
able to display the voltages it is outputting with high accuracy (within
.004v on a zero to 5V range).  I'll be using 10-bit A/D converters for the
voltage measurements and could maybe make it software-selectable for either
0-1V range or 0-5V range.

- -Matt
'95 3000GT Spyder VR4

***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 11 Mar 2002 15:17:39 -0500
From: romachka21@netscape.net (Roman)
Subject: Team3S: Boost drop to 5psi

I have only posted once before when I was building my 94 VR-4 800hp project car. I had an engine rebuild by AAM with rods, pistons, valves, head work, polishing, boring, balancing and etc....

Basicly the block is bullet proof.
Before I was braking the motor in and now the block has about 600 miles on it. I only boosted up to 3500 rpm.
What it would do is boost to 15psi and drop to about 10 psi and it will hold it.
After about 500 miles on a new block I noticed a problem that when the car gets warm or ran for about 5 min I would not be able to have the turbos boost past 6 psi. The problem is still there and I NEED HELP....
When the car is cool it will boost up to 15 psi and drop to 10 psi. After it gets warm it will not boost pass 6 psi. I have an aftermarket gauge.
I get no oil leaks... and I am not sure why it would boost fine when cold and not when worm.

Any help will be appreciated. I want to dyno the car with the stock setting to see what the head work did to the HP. But not when it boost to 6 psi.

The only mods to the car is the Block with the Heads... Gutted both precats. No Boost controller. I have Boost gauge and air/fuel gauge.

Thank you guy for all the help.

***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 11 Mar 2002 12:20:17 -0800
From: "Geddes, Brian J" <brian.j.geddes@intel.com>
Subject: RE: Team3S: Possible product

I'm definitely interested as well.

As for the wideband O2, I've been looking into the DIY WB O2 sensor lately,
and I see a couple of difficulties using one in this application.  First,
the milage on these sensors is pretty low - I've heard that the sensors
typically have a lifespan of about 10k miles before they go south.  It's a
GREAT tuning tool, but not something you'd run on your car every day.
Secondly, the electronics needed to control the heating and other functions
of the sensor are somewhat complex and would certainly add a chunk of change
to the cost of the unit.  IMHO, the WB O2 would be better off as a separate
unit. 

For anyone interested in the Wideband 02 sensor, this page sells PCBs and
parts kits to make your own sensor controller, or will send you a
pre-assembled/tested unit.  They're also working on nicely packaged
controller unit with display, all you'd need to add is the WB 02 sensor,
which you can get from NAPA online for around $125.  All told their setup
runs 1/3-1/4 the cost of every other WB 02 setup I've seen.  They're even
working on software to do logging! 

http://www.techedge.com.au/vehicle/wbo2/default.htm

I've got no interest in this company, and in fact haven't even ordered one
yet (although I plan to, with my S-AFC on the way!)  Just sharing info.

- - Brian

- -----Original Message-----
From: Christopher Deutsch [mailto:christopher0@attbi.com]
Sent: Monday, March 11, 2002 12:02 PM
To: Team3S@stealth-3000gt.st
Subject: RE: Team3S: Possible product

Definitely interested!  If you need software written for data logging let me
know.

Are you planning on using a Wideband O2 sensor, like the one from that
environmental Honda that they use on the EFI DIY page?

Christopher

> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-team3s@team3s.com [mailto:owner-team3s@team3s.com]On Behalf
> Of Jannusch, Matt
> Sent: Monday, March 11, 2002 1:00 PM
> To: Team3S@stealth-3000gt.st
> Subject: Team3S: Possible product
>
> Anyone interested in an LCD display that would do the following:
>
> During cruise (based on throttle position) display two bargraphs of O2
> voltage (one for each bank of cylinders), display RPM and display boost
> pressure/vacuum.
>
> During TPS > 60% display exact O2 voltage for both O2 sensors accurate to
> .001 volt, plus RPM, plus boost pressure.
>
> The display would be small enough that it would fit easily on top of the
> steering wheel shroud.  It could also maybe have warning LED's on it that
> would light up at something like less than a certain voltage of O2 above a
> certain boost pressure or something like that.
>
> I'm building one for myself, just wondering if anyone else would be
> interested.  I don't have the costs worked out yet, but it should be under
> $200.
>
> There might be a possibility of datalogging those parameters as well, but
> I'd be working on the more basic version first.  It could also be
> built with
> a vacuum-florescent display at higher cost also.  It might be a two-piece
> unit where the display would just be cabled to the master unit
> with a piece
> of RJ-11 phone cable so you could position it anywhere and it
> would take up
> very little space.
>
> Interest?  Comments?
>
> -Matt
> '95 3000GT Spyder VR4

***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 11 Mar 2002 14:24:18 -0600
From: "Jannusch, Matt" <mjannusch@marketwatch.com>
Subject: RE: Team3S: Boost drop to 5psi

> Basicly the block is bullet proof.
> Before I was braking the motor in and now the block has about
> 600 miles on it. I only boosted up to 3500 rpm. What it would
> do is boost to 15psi and drop to about 10 psi and it will
> hold it. After about 500 miles on a new block I noticed a
> problem that when the car gets warm or ran for about 5 min I
> would not be able to have the turbos boost past 6 psi. The
> problem is still there and I NEED HELP.... When the car is
> cool it will boost up to 15 psi and drop to 10 psi. After it
> gets warm it will not boost pass 6 psi. I have an aftermarket
> gauge. I get no oil leaks... and I am not sure why it would
> boost fine when cold and not when worm.

If you are running the stock boost control setup, then 6 psi is what happens
if you get excessive knock.  Do your pistons rattle in the bores?  How much
cylinder wall clearance are you running?  If the block was bored too loose
for your pistons they can rattle and trigger the knock sensor, causing the
ECU to close the boost solenoid and result in the meager 6 psi of boost.

Which pistons did you get?  If you told them to build it for 800 HP, then
they probably bored a little extra clearance to allow for piston expansion
under the heat of making that much power.  The tradeoff is that they rattle
at lower temps.

Also make sure the signal line to the BOV is connected to manifold pressure.
If it isn't, the stock BOV will leak like a sieve resulting in similar
behavior.

- -Matt
'95 3000GT Spyder VR4

***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 11 Mar 2002 13:24:53 -0700
From: "Floyd, Jim" <Jim_Floyd@maxtor.com>
Subject: RE: Team3S: Boost drop to 5psi

What has AAM done about the problem ??

- -----Original Message-----
From: romachka21@netscape.net [mailto:romachka21@netscape.net]
Sent: Monday, March 11, 2002 1:18 PM
To: Team3S@stealth-3000gt.st
Subject: Team3S: Boost drop to 5psi

I have only posted once before when I was building my 94 VR-4 800hp project
car. I had an engine rebuild by AAM with rods, pistons, valves, head work,
polishing, boring, balancing and etc....

Basicly the block is bullet proof.
Before I was braking the motor in and now the block has about 600 miles on
it. I only boosted up to 3500 rpm.
What it would do is boost to 15psi and drop to about 10 psi and it will hold
it.
After about 500 miles on a new block I noticed a problem that when the car
gets warm or ran for about 5 min I would not be able to have the turbos
boost past 6 psi. The problem is still there and I NEED HELP....
When the car is cool it will boost up to 15 psi and drop to 10 psi. After it
gets warm it will not boost pass 6 psi. I have an aftermarket gauge.
I get no oil leaks... and I am not sure why it would boost fine when cold
and not when worm.

Any help will be appreciated. I want to dyno the car with the stock setting
to see what the head work did to the HP. But not when it boost to 6 psi.

The only mods to the car is the Block with the Heads... Gutted both precats.
No Boost controller. I have Boost gauge and air/fuel gauge.

Thank you guy for all the help.

***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 11 Mar 2002 12:23:55 -0800
From: "fastmax" <fastmax@cox.net>
Subject: Re: Team3S: Front Strut Bar

I actually had to remove the brackets for the sun roof to get my Roadrace
Engineering bar installed --- If I seriously modified it I could probably
reinstall it. Having a hole in my roof seems like a dumb idea anyway so
I won't miss the brackets.

        Jim Berry

PS --- Darren: apparently Roadrace Eng no longer makes the strut bar. They
are a DSM house so I guess they decided not to screw around with them.

PPS --- Darren: I don't have my ABS disconnected, even at the track. I've
removed the fuse occasionally to test the effectiveness and operation of the
ABS.
===========================================================
From: "ek2mfg" <ek2mfg@foxinternet.com>

> I have a 93 R/T with sunroof and I have to modify the metal brackets
> under the plastic trim to let the round style cusco fit...maybe a
> diff between stealth and 3000 but it must be done no matter how it
> will fit in the rear...I have tried several options...If I want the
> metal bracket that keeps the sunroom mounted solid to the frame then
> it is a must......just a very small notch but a MUST none the less.
>
> bobk.

***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 11 Mar 2002 12:32:41 -0800 (PST)
From: Geoff Mohler <gemohler@www.speedtoys.com>
Subject: RE: Team3S: Boost drop to 5psi

Ya..dont ask us, ask them.  Thats the respectable first thing to do.

On Mon, 11 Mar 2002, Floyd, Jim wrote:

>
> What has AAM done about the problem ??
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: romachka21@netscape.net [mailto:romachka21@netscape.net]
> Sent: Monday, March 11, 2002 1:18 PM
> To: Team3S@stealth-3000gt.st
> Subject: Team3S: Boost drop to 5psi
>
> I have only posted once before when I was building my 94 VR-4 800hp project
> car. I had an engine rebuild by AAM with rods, pistons, valves, head work,
> polishing, boring, balancing and etc....
>
> Basicly the block is bullet proof.
> Before I was braking the motor in and now the block has about 600 miles on
> it. I only boosted up to 3500 rpm.
> What it would do is boost to 15psi and drop to about 10 psi and it will hold
> it.
> After about 500 miles on a new block I noticed a problem that when the car
> gets warm or ran for about 5 min I would not be able to have the turbos
> boost past 6 psi. The problem is still there and I NEED HELP....
> When the car is cool it will boost up to 15 psi and drop to 10 psi. After it
> gets warm it will not boost pass 6 psi. I have an aftermarket gauge.
> I get no oil leaks... and I am not sure why it would boost fine when cold
> and not when worm.
>
> Any help will be appreciated. I want to dyno the car with the stock setting
> to see what the head work did to the HP. But not when it boost to 6 psi.
>
> The only mods to the car is the Block with the Heads... Gutted both precats.
> No Boost controller. I have Boost gauge and air/fuel gauge.
>
> Thank you guy for all the help.

- ---
Geoff Mohler

***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 11 Mar 2002 15:32:08 -0500
From: pvg1@daimlerchrysler.com
Subject: Re: Team3S: 5mm spacers

Are they wheel spacers? How would 7-mm spacers change suspension geometry:
camber, caster, toe, steering angles? I'd like to see what considerations
are behind the 7-mm spacers.

The biggest 3S suspension flaw is the MacPhearson design with a poor
geometry. The front outside wheel in turns leans towards the outside WAY
too much. It is so bad that it is impossible to improve it significantly by
changing camber or caster angles. I do not understand what a 7-mm wheel
spacer would change.

Philip

- --------------------------------------------------------
Henri Le Hir <hlehir@lucent.com> wrote:
On my 1st Gen Stealth RT/TT, I found that the handling was "understeering
by
design".

So I had a serious look at the front suspension, made some tests with my
accelerometers (dry / wet / ice / snow), did some math, and found out that
I'd theoritically have to put 7mm spacers on the front (both sides).

Unfortunately, I could only find HR 5mm spacers for the Stealth / VR4, so
it's what I have.

Right now, the car is definitively more responsive (from the steering point
of view), and maybe just a little (as in very little ) bit still
understeering.

But it's definitively a lot more neutral than it used to be.

I'll keep it this way

Best

Henri

***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 11 Mar 2002 12:35:59 -0800
From: "fastmax" <fastmax@cox.net>
Subject: Re: Team3S: Boost drop to 5psi

6# is about what you get if the line to the waste gates are closed
and the waste gate solenoid is not doing anything --- eg. if the
control line is disconected from the solenoid.

        Jim berry
===============================================
- ----- Original Message -----
From: "Roman" <romachka21@netscape.net>
To: <Team3S@stealth-3000gt.st>
Sent: Monday, March 11, 2002 12:17 PM
Subject: Team3S: Boost drop to 5psi

> I have only posted once before when I was building my 94 VR-4 800hp project car. I had an engine rebuild by AAM with rods,
pistons, valves, head work, polishing, boring, balancing and etc....
>
> Basicly the block is bullet proof.
> Before I was braking the motor in and now the block has about 600 miles on it. I only boosted up to 3500 rpm.
> What it would do is boost to 15psi and drop to about 10 psi and it will hold it.
> After about 500 miles on a new block I noticed a problem that when the car gets warm or ran for about 5 min I would not be able to
have the turbos boost past 6 psi. The problem is still there and I NEED HELP....
> When the car is cool it will boost up to 15 psi and drop to 10 psi. After it gets warm it will not boost pass 6 psi. I have an
aftermarket gauge.
> I get no oil leaks... and I am not sure why it would boost fine when cold and not when worm.
>
> Any help will be appreciated. I want to dyno the car with the stock setting to see what the head work did to the HP. But not when
it boost to 6 psi.
>
> The only mods to the car is the Block with the Heads... Gutted both precats. No Boost controller. I have Boost gauge and air/fuel
gauge.

***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 11 Mar 2002 12:50:00 -0800 (PST)
From: Casey Spivey <spiv99@yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: Team3S: turbos going bad? anyone?

I have an Autometer boost guage, this is where I am getting the 15lbs
from.  I haven't noticed any oil loss, but I just changed it last
week so I can keep better track of it.  Wouldn't some oil be getting
in the pipes and down to the intercooler? Was there any special
trick, like a dye test, that the dealer did to tell that yours was
cracked or am I going to have to take it all apart to save some time
and money? Later

I was the exact same.  I didn't smell any oil burn or spot a single
drop
of oil, that's when the mechanic told me it was likely all burning
up.
As well, my factory turbo gauge, showed full turbo pressure, but the
mechanic said it wasn't reading accurately.

What's the deal with PCV valve change?  Just change it to a new
factory
valve, what is this supposed to do?

Later,

Shannon

Casey Spivey wrote:

> I thought for sure it was the rear turbo as well. I used a little
> mirror to check around the back turbo and I couldn't see any oil
> around. It's possible that it is still coming out but being burn up
> from the heat. There was no oil in the intercooler either. It was
> recommended to change the PCV valve which I will do here in the
next
> couple days. Unless my manual boost controller is really off I
don't
> understand how I can get 15lbs with a cracked turbo. Plus the oil
is
> throwing me off.
>
> I am not a mechanic by any means, but I have a 92 Stealth TT and
had
> a
> similar thing happen to me recently.  I don't have manual boost
but,
> experienced the "air escaping" sound near the rear, by the
firewall.
> I
> have never smelt oil, but experienced loss of oil over time.  As
> well, I
> noticed that often around 4,000 RPM the car seemed to hesitate and
> run
> rough
>
> After taking it in for a check-up, it was revealed that my rear
turbo
> is
> cracked.  Not what I wanted to hear, and I am sure not what you
want
> to
> hear.  It explains the air escaping, the lack of boost and the oil
> loss.  It is rare that I have the opportunity to drive the car the
> way
> it should be so I didn't notice this as a big problem for a few
> weeks,
> the car seemed fine, except when you wind it out.  Thus, when the
> rear
> turbo kicked in it blew air out of the turbo, as well as burnt oil
> being
> sent through the turbo.
>
> I was just about to sell it, now I might have to keep it seeing I'm
> going to soak a good buck into it.  I hope you have better luck
with
> yours.
>
> Later,
>
> Shannon
>

***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 11 Mar 2002 16:12:29 -0500
From: pvg1@daimlerchrysler.com
Subject: RE: Team3S: Possible product

>> Definitely interested!  If you need software written for data
>> logging let me know.

>I figured that I'd just provide an RS-232 interface to dump the raw data
to
>a laptop running some sort of terminal software and then you could look at
>it later in Excel.

I'd pay $200 right now for anything that would let me dump some key, high
sampling rate data into Excel! A laptop PCMCIA data acquisition card is all
I need, but those were $700+ last time I checked. Anyone knows of a better
deal?

Alerts are very useful too. I do not expect myself to catch a spike in some
reading when I am testing my car in the street watching out for cops, cats,
pedestrians, and other cars ;-)

A display with some sort of data logging, replay, or X-Y plots (boost-O2,
boost-RPM, RPM-O2, or RPM-knock sensor voltage!) would also be very cool.

Philip

***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 11 Mar 2002 13:41:01 -0500
From: "Zobel, Kurt" <KURT.ZOBEL@ca.com>
Subject: RE: Team3S: Brake'er, Brake'er, Gtech Competition

Zero it like a qtr mile, then just hit the brakes anytime over 60mph.
Once stopped the Gtech will alternate display; 0-60 secs acceleration and
60-0 feet to stop.

Kurt

- -----Original Message-----
From: Geoff Mohler [mailto:gemohler@www.speedtoys.com]
Sent: Friday, March 08, 2002 8:12 PM
To: Zobel, Kurt
Cc: Team3S@stealth-3000gt.st
Subject: RE: Team3S: Brake'er, Brake'er, Gtech Competition

Cool..how do you set it up for that?

On Fri, 8 Mar 2002, Zobel, Kurt wrote:

> OK Guys,
> Let's see some Gtech braking info.  Then we can bitch about those too.
>
> Let's try to get some numbers for different brake setups, and see what
> works.
> Include tire and suspension mods, as they will factor in too.
>
> Kurt
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Jon Bohlke [mailto:bohlke_mobile@yahoo.com]
> Sent: Monday, March 04, 2002 9:28 AM
> To: Team3S@stealth-3000gt.st
> Subject: Re: Team3S: Gtech Competition
>
> My friend and I have wondered about the accuracy and precision of the
> Gtech pro.  Since there has been a bit of dicussion about it here I
> thought I would share the results of his test.  He took the Gtech with
> him to the dragstrip at Maple Grove.  He ran 4-5 times that day and said
> that the G-Tech was accurate on the ET but was optimistic on the speed.
> I think he said that the Gtech was within .1s of the ET reported on the
> timeslip in each run.  He drives a C5 but I don't hold that against him
> :) , though I am not sure that it makes a difference what type of car
> you use to test the Gtech.
>
> Jon
> 98 Pearl White VR4
> http://3000gt.websnout.com

- ---
Geoff Mohler

***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 11 Mar 2002 14:19:39 -0500
From: "Zobel, Kurt" <KURT.ZOBEL@ca.com>
Subject: RE: Team3S: Trunk mounted battery

..and don't forget the Optima two year replacement warranty.

I may still get a Dynabatt, for track only, but only at about $100 or less.
Been looking for any discounts or group buys.

Kurt

- -----Original Message-----
From: Chris Winkley [mailto:cwinkley@plaza.ds.adp.com]
Sent: Tuesday, March 05, 2002 10:13 AM
To: Team3S@stealth-3000gt.st
Subject: Team3S: Trunk mounted battery

Folks...

I've had it with dry cell batteries. This is the third one I've had, with
each failing to hold a charge over the winter sitting in the garage (even
with a 2 amp automatic charger on it). At $225 a piece, this is NOT a good
investment.   :-(  

Sooooo, I bought a Optima Red Top this last weekend...900 amps and only
$115.00!!!

Now the dilemma. I thought it would be a great idea to go all the way so I
bought a NHRA rated Moroso polyethylene airtight box and battery kill
switch. BUT, I cannot locate a space anywhere in the trunk where I can
install the box. I can squeeze the battery itself into the right rear
corner, and can drill one hole to the outside of the frame and one to the
inside (over the gas tank) for the steel strap but can't come up with a
solution for the box as it's approximately two inches larger all the way
around. Has anyone successfully installed a sealed box? If so, where? I'm
thinking I may resort to having a stainless steel tray fabricated, screw it
to the floor pan, and use the strap with two strap bolts to hold it in the
tray should I decide to try driving upside down. Suggestions???

Also, any suggestions on the best run for the cables? I bought 20 feet of
Moroso 2 gauge cable with plenty of beefy ring terminations. My plan is to
connect the two ground connections that are in the engine compartment (motor
and chassis) to each other, then run a ground to the body in the trunk. This
will leave only one cable to run (the positive) back up to the engine
compartment. It seems like there's plenty of clearance if I attach it to the
body pan on the passenger side, but I could get fancier and tuck it up along
the tunnel where the driveline and tranny is. Again, suggestions?

Looking forward...Chris

1995 Glacier Pearl White VR4 (w/custom K&N intake, bored and polished
throttle body, TEC 15G turbos, RC 560cc injectors, HKS fuel pump, ARC2/MAF
fuel controller, Split Second A/F meter, GReddy PRofec A boost controller,
Apex EGT & boost gauges, GReddy turbo timer, HKS SBOV, custom intercoolers,
Odyssey dry cell battery, Magnecore 8.5mm wires, NGK double platinum plugs
gapped at .032", ACT 2800 lb pressure plate, Broward six puck racing disc,
Centerforce throwout bearing, ATR downpipe and test pipe, GReddy catback
exhaust, Stillen cross-drilled rotors, Porterfield R4 race pads, SS brake
lines, Eibach 1" drop progressive springs, Michelin SX MXX3 Pilots)

***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 11 Mar 2002 17:58:29 EST
From: DonBrando36@aol.com
Subject: Team3S: VR4 block

    does anyone know if the 1993 VR4 engine could fit into a 1993 N/A engine
compartment.  Could i use N/A  transmition with the VR4 or do i need to buy a
VR4 tranny?  could the new engine be jsut front wheel drive or just rear
wheel drive?
    this is the way i am going to go, if it is possible

brandon
93 3000GT Dohc

***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 11 Mar 2002 15:06:45 -0800
From: "Gross, Erik" <erik.gross@intel.com>
Subject: RE: Team3S: Front Strut Bar

> Erik - Can you re-install the rubber tops to the rear
> shock towers with the Cusco rear strut tower bar in
> place?  I believe Chris' allows this.

Actually the Cusco bar allows you to replace the rubber tops for the rear
shock towers after the bar is in place, not that it really matters all that
much.

You can see this very clearly on my webpage:
http://www.team3s.com/~egross/3000GT/RearStrutBar/ReinstallWithSunroof.jpg

> I don't know about the RoadRace one but Jim B. said they are
> not selling them now?  Is that right?  Jim, can you replace
> the rubber tops to the shock towers?

What's the big deal with the rubber covers for the shock towers?  Helps keep
dust out  and "looks better," but I don't see its presence or absense as
much of an issue... but that's just me - maybe it has some critical function
that I don't know about.

> Remember that many of the big name shops are in this for the money and
> profit.  Few companies actually make the product for what it was
> intended for or if they do then we can't afford it for our cars.

C'mon, now...  while that is true in some specific cases, it's not fair to
make that a blanket statement.  Bigger companies should be able to sink more
into R&D than smaller shops and big, established companies also have
experience in their corner.  I'm not in any way saying that all smaller
shops (or individuals) lack this experience or R&D budget, but looking at
the big picture and statistics...

I'd be the first to tell anyone that Chris (TEC) makes a well-built front
brace that is a complete solution (battery bracket, all hardware, powder
coated).  It made a rather large difference in my VR-4's handling, mainly in
the areas of steering precision/feel and front tire traction in cornering,
especially in transitions (like slaloms).

Is his bar the only one we have available to us?  Not any more.  Is it the
best-performing bar?  I'm not qualified to answer that, but I'm happy with
mine.  Is it the cheapest bar? No, it's pretty expensive compared to the
others.  Would I buy it again, now that there are others available?  Maybe,
but I'd have to do some more research to figure out which option is the best
value for me.

- --Erik

***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 11 Mar 2002 15:36:38 -0800 (PST)
From: menalteed <menalteed@yahoo.com>
Subject: Team3S: excessive battery corrosion

My 92 Stealth has had a major problen with corrosion
at the positive battery terminal. Now with all the IC
pipes out I have checked the cable and followed the
main negitive cable back to the block just under the
front Turbo. It was very loose, and looks like it has
been that way from the factory. In any case I will
need to replace the positive cable to the starter from
the battery as over time cuting it down to get rid of
bad corroded cable has made it now to short for
further use. I have been going through my books on the
92 Stealth but can't find any reference to the
positive battery cable or if it can be replaced, or is
it part of a harness system as it looks like and I
would need to buy the harness with the negitive and
positive cable
and the other starter circuit wires as a unit. I
wonder if someone has a caps book that wouldn't mind
doing a quick check to I can place a order for a new
cable.
I also want to thank all the people here for so much
qreat information, and informative discussion, and for
sure without this great place to ask questions I would
never have made this far with my turbo upgrade and all
the other stuff to get my ten year old Stealth back to
a fresh as new condition. I'm trying to take care of
all the little things that need to be done to get this
back on the road. I'm replaceing rusted parts. oil
lines and electrical where it needs it like the
positive battery cable.

Peter 92 Stealth TT

***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 11 Mar 2002 17:43:01 -0600
From: RJM <rjmsmail@swbell.net>
Subject: Re: Team3S: Suspension light blinking on 94 3000gt

Thanks Chuck for the advice,  I apologize that I am just getting to check the
car out now.   Basics please: I have the voltmeter(s), manual and am looking
under the front end now, didn't take rear tires off/inspect rear shocks yet
other
than looking around car with tires on (guess that's still "bogus" but right now
I
have the front up and want to do the computer test, I have new tires and don't
want to ruin them)
1.) What is 1st and 2nd generation?
2.) What is MFI (these two questions would be good to put in the acronyms/FAQ,
I didn't see them there)?
3.) Where in the manual is the ECU (computer) showing pin locations and I am
assuming I put the voltmeter on DC volts and if I get the generations wrong and
use the wrong pin it won't damage the ECU (for a 1994 3000gt SL)?
4.) Related to 3.): is there a place in the archives/website guys that shows how
to
do the computer check with the voltmeter, I'm sure there is, sorry I can't find
it,
I'll keep searching in the interim.
5.) If it is a speed sensor causing the problem, am I left to find which one?  I
am
assuming "yes".

Thanks MUCH. I've already put another 2,000 since we talked last.
Bob

"Willis, Charles E." wrote:

> When the ECS fails to get through its self-test, it remains in SPORT-HARD
> mode and the light blinks.  Your message didn't say anything about
> inspecting the REAR two shocks and their wiring harness connections.
>
> If the dash light is flashing, then a fault code is being sent telling you
> which strut has the problem.  9 times out of 10 it is a poor connection, but
> can be a rotated shaft on the shock itself and can be a wiring harness
> spooled around the top of the strut.  "It looks okay" is bogus.
>
> Check it yourself -
>
> These are instuctions I gave someone else with voltmeter:
>
> 1.  Find the datalink connector under the dash in the driver's side.
>         A.  1ST GENERATION - connect + to pin 3, - to pin 12.  Pin 3 is the
> third down on the left side, before the double space. Pin 12 is the lower
> right corner.
>         B.  2ND GENERATION - connect + to pin 3, - to pin 4 or 5.  Pin 3 is
> the third from the top left side of the connector ( on the log side of the
> trapezoid), pin 4 and 5 are next to the right.
>
> 2.  Turn the ignition on.
>
> 3.  Look at the voltmeter.  The code is repeated many times.  Seven (7)
> short deflections is code =0, and means everything is wonderful.
>
> 4.  Other codes are:  1 long, 1 short = 11, G sensor bad.
>                 2 long, 1 short=21, steering angular velocity sensor open
>                 2 long, 4 short=24, speed sensor open
>
> These codes don't disappear until ingnition switch is off, even if you fix
> the problem.
>
> 5.  These codes disappear when you correct the problem:
>         6 long, 1 short=61, Front Right shock
>         6 long, 2 short=62, Front left shock
>         6 long, 3 short=63, Rear right shock
>         6 long, 4 short=64, Rear Left shock
>
> MFI trouble codes are read in a similar manner, but different pins.
>
> FIRST GENERATION - connect + to pin 1, - to pin 12.
> SECOND GENERATION - Connect pin 1 to GROUND and watch the CHECK ENGINE light
> flashes for same sort of patterns - long flashes (1.5 sec) are tens digit,
> short (0.5 sec) flashes are ones digit.  That gets you the same codes you
> would read on the Scan Tool.
>
> You clear codes by disconnecting the battery for 10 seconds, reconnecting
> and idling the car for 15 min to make sure the codes don't return.
>
> Chuck Willis

***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 11 Mar 2002 15:54:44 -0800
From: Rick Pierce <piercera@pacbell.net>
Subject: Re: Team3S: excessive battery corrosion

Peter,

When I did my JSpec swap, I replaced the positive cable on my 92 VR-4 - it's
part number:

      MB629313

and I got it from Conicelli Mitsu for $59.04

You might want to check with some of the dealers on the Team3S vendor page
to find the best price
This should work for you it's purely a plug and play to the harness.
Best, Rick

- ----- Original Message -----
From: "menalteed" <menalteed@yahoo.com>
To: "Team3S" <Team3S@stealth-3000gt.st>
Sent: Monday, March 11, 2002 3:36 PM
Subject: Team3S: excessive battery corrosion

> My 92 Stealth has had a major problen with corrosion
> at the positive battery terminal. Now with all the IC
> pipes out I have checked the cable and followed the
> main negitive cable back to the block just under the
> front Turbo. It was very loose, and looks like it has
> been that way from the factory. In any case I will
> need to replace the positive cable to the starter from
> the battery as over time cuting it down to get rid of
> bad corroded cable has made it now to short for
> further use. I have been going through my books on the
> 92 Stealth but can't find any reference to the
> positive battery cable or if it can be replaced, or is
> it part of a harness system as it looks like and I
> would need to buy the harness with the negitive and
> positive cable
> and the other starter circuit wires as a unit. I
> wonder if someone has a caps book that wouldn't mind
> doing a quick check to I can place a order for a new
> cable.
> I also want to thank all the people here for so much
> qreat information, and informative discussion, and for
> sure without this great place to ask questions I would
> never have made this far with my turbo upgrade and all
> the other stuff to get my ten year old Stealth back to
> a fresh as new condition. I'm trying to take care of
> all the little things that need to be done to get this
> back on the road. I'm replaceing rusted parts. oil
> lines and electrical where it needs it like the
> positive battery cable.
>
> Peter 92 Stealth TT

***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 11 Mar 2002 19:22:53 -0500
From: "Aamer" <aamer@thepentagon.com>
Subject: Team3S: strange sound when car starts (link to a sound file enclosed)

Hello list members:

This week, my car started to make a strange "screeching" noise when it
starts. The sound only occurs for a couple of seconds when I first start the
car -- and it usually won't make the sound if the car has been started
within the last couple of hours. I typically hear it in the mornings when I
start the car after it has been not been started for over 12 hours.

I've tried revving the car up to redline and I don't hear the sound when I
rev it. In fact, as I've said, I only hear it when the car starts up after
being at rest for a while. I also got someone to start my car while I
listened under the hood. It appears that the noise is being produced near
the back end of the engine -- by that I mean the side that the flywheel is
on (I want to say it's coming from near cylinder #5, but I'm fairly sure
that's not what's making the noise).

My gut instinct is telling me that the problem might be coming from the
starter solenoid, but I'm not sure. I recorded a sound file of the car
starting up ... you will be able to hear the screeching if you listen to
this sound.

The sound is posted on the internet at the following address:
http://home.nc.rr.com/aamer/car/car.wav

Any feedback would be appreciated. Thanks!

Aamer Abbas
'94 3000GT (DOHC -- Naturally Aspirated)

***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 11 Mar 2002 16:29:10 -0800
From: "Geddes, Brian J" <brian.j.geddes@intel.com>
Subject: RE: Team3S: strange sound when car starts (link to a sound file e nclosed)

Sounds like a bad starter to me.  I had one once, so I'm pretty familiar
with the sound.  :)  It's caused by the starter not disengaging quickly
enough from the ring gear/flywheel, making the two grind together once the
engine is running on its own.  If it is the starter, put in a new one and
you should be okay.  You might want to check for damage to the ring gear.

- - Brian

- -----Original Message-----
From: Aamer [mailto:aamer@thepentagon.com]
Sent: Monday, March 11, 2002 4:23 PM
To: Team3S
Subject: Team3S: strange sound when car starts (link to a sound file
enclosed)

Hello list members:

This week, my car started to make a strange "screeching" noise when it
starts. The sound only occurs for a couple of seconds when I first start the
car -- and it usually won't make the sound if the car has been started
within the last couple of hours. I typically hear it in the mornings when I
start the car after it has been not been started for over 12 hours.

I've tried revving the car up to redline and I don't hear the sound when I
rev it. In fact, as I've said, I only hear it when the car starts up after
being at rest for a while. I also got someone to start my car while I
listened under the hood. It appears that the noise is being produced near
the back end of the engine -- by that I mean the side that the flywheel is
on (I want to say it's coming from near cylinder #5, but I'm fairly sure
that's not what's making the noise).

My gut instinct is telling me that the problem might be coming from the
starter solenoid, but I'm not sure. I recorded a sound file of the car
starting up ... you will be able to hear the screeching if you listen to
this sound.

The sound is posted on the internet at the following address:
http://home.nc.rr.com/aamer/car/car.wav

Any feedback would be appreciated. Thanks!

Aamer Abbas
'94 3000GT (DOHC -- Naturally Aspirated)

***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 11 Mar 2002 18:26:54 -0600
From: RJM <rjmsmail@swbell.net>
Subject: Re: Team3S: strange sound when car starts (link to a sound file enclosed)

Did you do any work on the belts?  Are you sure a belt doesn't  need adjusting
(sounds
like MAYBE a pulley/loose belt)?
Bob

Aamer wrote:

> Hello list members:
>
> This week, my car started to make a strange "screeching" noise when it
> starts. The sound only occurs for a couple of seconds when I first start the
> car -- and it usually won't make the sound if the car has been started
> within the last couple of hours. I typically hear it in the mornings when I
> start the car after it has been not been started for over 12 hours.
>
> I've tried revving the car up to redline and I don't hear the sound when I
> rev it. In fact, as I've said, I only hear it when the car starts up after
> being at rest for a while. I also got someone to start my car while I
> listened under the hood. It appears that the noise is being produced near
> the back end of the engine -- by that I mean the side that the flywheel is
> on (I want to say it's coming from near cylinder #5, but I'm fairly sure
> that's not what's making the noise).
>
> My gut instinct is telling me that the problem might be coming from the
> starter solenoid, but I'm not sure. I recorded a sound file of the car
> starting up ... you will be able to hear the screeching if you listen to
> this sound.
>
> The sound is posted on the internet at the following address:
> http://home.nc.rr.com/aamer/car/car.wav
>
> Any feedback would be appreciated. Thanks!
>
> Aamer Abbas
> '94 3000GT (DOHC -- Naturally Aspirated)

***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 11 Mar 2002 19:55:54 -0500
From: romachka21@netscape.net (Roman)
Subject: RE: RE: Team3S: Boost drop to 5psi

"Jannusch, Matt" <mjannusch@marketwatch.com> wrote:

>> Basicly the block is bullet proof.
>> Before I was braking the motor in and now the block has about
>> 600 miles on it. I only boosted up to 3500 rpm. What it would
>> do is boost to 15psi and drop to about 10 psi and it will
>> hold it. After about 500 miles on a new block I noticed a
>> problem that when the car gets warm or ran for about 5 min I
>> would not be able to have the turbos boost past 6 psi. The
>> problem is still there and I NEED HELP.... When the car is
>> cool it will boost up to 15 psi and drop to 10 psi. After it
>> gets warm it will not boost pass 6 psi. I have an aftermarket
>> gauge. I get no oil leaks... and I am not sure why it would
>> boost fine when cold and not when worm.
>
>If you are running the stock boost control setup, then 6 psi is what happens
>if you get excessive knock.  Do your pistons rattle in the bores?  How much
>cylinder wall clearance are you running?  If the block was bored too loose
>for your pistons they can rattle and trigger the knock sensor, causing the
>ECU to close the boost solenoid and result in the meager 6 psi of boost.
>
>Which pistons did you get?  If you told them to build it for 800 HP, then
>they probably bored a little extra clearance to allow for piston expansion
>under the heat of making that much power.  The tradeoff is that they rattle
>at lower temps.
>
>Also make sure the signal line to the BOV is connected to manifold pressure.
>If it isn't, the stock BOV will leak like a sieve resulting in similar
>behavior.
>
>-Matt
>'95 3000GT Spyder VR4
>

Thank you matt for the info.
AAM put in JE pistons with Crow Rods and I am not sure what clearance they have. Would you be so kind to let me know what questions should I be asking them to see if they did something wrong.

It sounds exactly how you described it. That the pistons are rataling. And are fulling the knock sensor. Nothing else seemed to make sence.
It seems to lose boost when ever it wants to and go to full boost once in a while. I have no patern.

I will appreciate for the questions that I need to ask AAM.
By the way this is my daily driver now.

Thank you everybody for contributing...
- --

***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 11 Mar 2002 19:55:21 -0600
From: RJM <rjmsmail@swbell.net>
Subject: Re: Team3S: Suspension light blinking on 94 3000gt

Well,
I managed to answer all but 4.) and 5.) below:  I have a 2nd gen. car by the shape
of the trapezoid (I didn't notice Chuck's details below) and determined a code 61.
But the right front shock looks OK except the black "cap" (under the hood) is a bit
loose, but it has been loose for some time and wasn't all the way off.  Connection
looks good.   Guess the shock is failing????  I don't understand because the TOUR
ride seemed good, it is the left driver's side shock that looks like it may be
leaking slightly.   I wonder if I will eventually ruin these new tires, the only
difference in the ride, now always in SPORT mode, is probably that the bottoming
out" sound I sometimes here is more frequent. ANY IDEAS MUCH APPRECIATED.   103,000
miles on  original struts (no shocks?).  Thanks again.  Bob

RJM wrote:

> Thanks Chuck for the advice,  I apologize that I am just getting to check the
> car out now.   Basics please: I have the voltmeter(s), manual and am looking
> under the front end now, didn't take rear tires off/inspect rear shocks yet
> other
> than looking around car with tires on (guess that's still "bogus" but right now
> I
> have the front up and want to do the computer test, I have new tires and don't
> want to ruin them)
> 1.) What is 1st and 2nd generation?
> 2.) What is MFI (these two questions would be good to put in the acronyms/FAQ,
> I didn't see them there)?
> 3.) Where in the manual is the ECU (computer) showing pin locations and I am
> assuming I put the voltmeter on DC volts and if I get the generations wrong and
> use the wrong pin it won't damage the ECU (for a 1994 3000gt SL)?
> 4.) Related to 3.): is there a place in the archives/website guys that shows how
> to
> do the computer check with the voltmeter, I'm sure there is, sorry I can't find
> it,
> I'll keep searching in the interim.
> 5.) If it is a speed sensor causing the problem, am I left to find which one?  I
> am
> assuming "yes".
>
> Thanks MUCH. I've already put another 2,000 since we talked last.
> Bob

***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 11 Mar 2002 20:19:58 -0600
From: "Jannusch, Matt" <mjannusch@marketwatch.com>
Subject: RE: RE: Team3S: Boost drop to 5psi

> Thank you matt for the info.
> AAM put in JE pistons with Crow Rods and I am not sure what
> clearance they have. Would you be so kind to let me know what
> questions should I be asking them to see if they did something wrong.

I'd just ask for the specs that they bored it to, and the specs of the
pistons.  Check with JE that that clearance is correct for the power you
told AAM you wanted to make.  I'd guess that it is probably done to the spec
you asked for (800 HP) so the pistons are pretty loose.

> I will appreciate for the questions that I need to ask AAM.
> By the way this is my daily driver now.

I'd work with AAM, since they built it for you they should know all the
specs and should be able to deliver on whatever they promised you.

Sounds to me like you asked for an all-out race motor and that's what you
got, for better or worse.

- -Matt
'95 3000GT Spyder VR4

***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 11 Mar 2002 18:26:02 -0800 (PST)
From: Geoff Mohler <gemohler@www.speedtoys.com>
Subject: RE: RE: Team3S: Boost drop to 5psi

> I'd just ask for the specs that they bored it to, and the specs of the
> pistons.  Check with JE that that clearance is correct for the power you
> told AAM you wanted to make.  I'd guess that it is probably done to the spec
> you asked for (800 HP) so the pistons are pretty loose.
- ---
No doubt..mine certainly are.  You can tell a hint of piston slap even
warmed up at low/lug RPMs leaving a light.  But man..20-22psi feels damn
good when its reliable.
 
***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 11 Mar 2002 21:50:49 -0500
From: "Darren Schilberg" <dschilberg@pobox.com>
Subject: RE: Team3S: Front Strut Bar

Bob -- Chris' bar accounts for the shelf for the sunroof to sit on and
no modification is necessary.  It also allows the rubber top to the
shock tower to be put in place.

Erik -- Some people like the stock look of things in their car so they
replace parts when they can.  When I didn't put the rubber tops back on
I could hear the shocks "hissing" as they compensated with the stuff
inside after going over bumps.  I thought it was neat but some people
probably don't want to hear those noises.

Thanks for the pic of the Cusco allowing the rubber tops back on.  I
only looked at the smaller thumbnails initially.

Agreed that the blanket statement doesn't apply to everyone but these
cars have been out since 1991 and so far I only see one aftermarket shop
with rear strut tower bars?  Maybe a few more but certainly not as many
as springs or wheels or seats or turbos.  I'm sure the Subaru, Toyota,
BMW, Audi, etc. lines have more than Cusco to choose from for a rear bar
and front bar.

Like I said, Chris' bar might be over-Engineered but I think it will
always outperform the car.  Some other bars (not naming names) but let's
say someone makes their own out of a piece that goes across, bolts to a
vertical piece, and then bolts to the part around the tower.  That will
be so flimsy that it is scary to think they trust it on their car.

His bar is not the only one available and bigger is not always better
but I think his bar deserves at least equal billing as the big-name
aftermarket ones.  I don't have the money to buy all three or four
available and test them but anyone with a G-Tech can do this (we know
those numbers might be bogus but the same G-Tech on the same car with
the same driver is the best we can do).  I still think his bars will
outperform others.  I'm open to being wrong but will hold out judgment
until someone tests them head-to-head or we get more feedback on these
bars.  Chris' bars have been proven on cars and they DO work but we just
need more people to realize their potential and believe in them.

- --Flash!
 
- -----Original Message-----
From: Gross, Erik [mailto:erik.gross@intel.com]
Sent: Monday, March 11, 2002 18:07

Actually the Cusco bar allows you to replace the rubber tops for the
rear
shock towers after the bar is in place, not that it really matters all
that
much.

You can see this very clearly on my webpage:
http://www.team3s.com/~egross/3000GT/RearStrutBar/ReinstallWithSunroof.j
pg

C'mon, now...  while that is true in some specific cases, it's not fair
to
make that a blanket statement.  Bigger companies should be able to sink
more
into R&D than smaller shops and big, established companies also have
experience in their corner.  I'm not in any way saying that all smaller
shops (or individuals) lack this experience or R&D budget, but looking
at
the big picture and statistics...

I'd be the first to tell anyone that Chris (TEC) makes a well-built
front
brace that is a complete solution (battery bracket, all hardware, powder
coated).  It made a rather large difference in my VR-4's handling,
mainly in
the areas of steering precision/feel and front tire traction in
cornering,
especially in transitions (like slaloms).

Is his bar the only one we have available to us?  Not any more.  Is it
the
best-performing bar?  I'm not qualified to answer that, but I'm happy
with
mine.  Is it the cheapest bar? No, it's pretty expensive compared to the
others.  Would I buy it again, now that there are others available?
Maybe,
but I'd have to do some more research to figure out which option is the
best value for me.

- --Erik

***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 11 Mar 2002 21:55:31 -0500
From: "Jerry B." <scorpman@optonline.net>
Subject: Team3S: Weekend Blues!!!

Ok,,
    Here is my delima,, I live in New Jersey.. Still new to the area and am
looking for places to hang out with my machine. You know were all the people
go to show off thier cars,, most of the time it is a parking lot or
something.

Now my question is,, is ther any stealth/mitsu3000 owners out there in the
NJ area that hangs out on Fridays or whatever and know of good areas to just
relax?? If you might know and or do this sort of thing please drop a line
back and let me know.

Thanks
Jerry B

***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 11 Mar 2002 22:08:14 -0500
From: "Darren Schilberg" <dschilberg@pobox.com>
Subject: RE: RE: Team3S: Boost drop to 5psi

Even if it is a full race motor (in a daily driver no less ... DAMN) how
would you get the pistons warmed up in a race motor when you only have
one warm-up lap behind a pace car (race scenario)?  I imagine they need
to get pretty warm to be expanding.  If you have the engine tuned to
produce zero knock then can you unplug the knock sensor or have it
monitored another way?

- --Flash!

- -----Original Message-----
From: Jannusch, Matt
Sent: Monday, March 11, 2002 21:20
 
I'd just ask for the specs that they bored it to, and the specs of the
pistons.  Check with JE that that clearance is correct for the power you
told AAM you wanted to make.  I'd guess that it is probably done to the
spec
you asked for (800 HP) so the pistons are pretty loose.

Sounds to me like you asked for an all-out race motor and that's what
you
got, for better or worse.

***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 11 Mar 2002 21:17:22 -0600
From: "Jannusch, Matt" <mjannusch@marketwatch.com>
Subject: RE: RE: Team3S: Boost drop to 5psi

> Even if it is a full race motor (in a daily driver no less
> ... DAMN) how would you get the pistons warmed up in a race
> motor when you only have one warm-up lap behind a pace car
> (race scenario)?  I imagine they need to get pretty warm to
> be expanding.  If you have the engine tuned to produce zero
> knock then can you unplug the knock sensor or have it
> monitored another way?

You'd probably want to use a standalone ECU that doesn't use a knock sensor
so you can program static timing values that you feel are "safe", and would
dial it in on a dyno to verify.

The pistons will warm up and expand pretty quick once you get on it.

More work/effort/money than I'd want to do...  But if you want 800 HP then
that's what you'll be facing, I'm afraid.  I'll settle for my little 650 HP
prepped motor.  ;-)

- -Matt
'95 3000GT Spyder VR4

***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 11 Mar 2002 19:57:55 -0800
From: "fastmax" <fastmax@cox.net>
Subject: Re: Team3S: strange sound when car starts (link to a sound file enclosed)

It sounds like the starter not disengaging from the flywheel --- It hangs up for
a second or so. I cleared mine up with a little WD-40 when I had the starter
out for trans work.

        Jim Berry
=====================================================

- ----- Original Message -----
From: "Aamer" <aamer@thepentagon.com>
To: "Team3S" <team3s@stealth-3000gt.st>
Sent: Monday, March 11, 2002 4:22 PM
Subject: Team3S: strange sound when car starts (link to a sound file enclosed)

> Hello list members:
>
> This week, my car started to make a strange "screeching" noise when it
> starts. The sound only occurs for a couple of seconds when I first start the
> car -- and it usually won't make the sound if the car has been started
> within the last couple of hours. I typically hear it in the mornings when I
> start the car after it has been not been started for over 12 hours.
>
> I've tried revving the car up to redline and I don't hear the sound when I
> rev it. In fact, as I've said, I only hear it when the car starts up after
> being at rest for a while. I also got someone to start my car while I
> listened under the hood. It appears that the noise is being produced near
> the back end of the engine -- by that I mean the side that the flywheel is
> on (I want to say it's coming from near cylinder #5, but I'm fairly sure
> that's not what's making the noise).
>
> My gut instinct is telling me that the problem might be coming from the
> starter solenoid, but I'm not sure. I recorded a sound file of the car
> starting up ... you will be able to hear the screeching if you listen to
> this sound.
>
> The sound is posted on the internet at the following address:
> http://home.nc.rr.com/aamer/car/car.wav
>
> Any feedback would be appreciated. Thanks!
>
> Aamer Abbas
> '94 3000GT (DOHC -- Naturally Aspirated)

***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 11 Mar 2002 20:01:05 -0800
From: "fastmax" <fastmax@cox.net>
Subject: Re: Team3S: Possible product

I'd like to see a cheap alternative to the PCMCIA cards but I don't know
how you're going to do the analog to digital conversion and buffering
without a bunch of hardware.

        Jim Berry
===================================================
- ----- Original Message -----
From: <pvg1@daimlerchrysler.com>
To: <team3s@team3s.com>
Sent: Monday, March 11, 2002 1:12 PM
Subject: RE: Team3S: Possible product

> >> Definitely interested!  If you need software written for data
> >> logging let me know.
>
> >I figured that I'd just provide an RS-232 interface to dump the raw data
> to
> >a laptop running some sort of terminal software and then you could look at
> >it later in Excel.
>
> I'd pay $200 right now for anything that would let me dump some key, high
> sampling rate data into Excel! A laptop PCMCIA data acquisition card is all
> I need, but those were $700+ last time I checked. Anyone knows of a better
> deal?
>
> Alerts are very useful too. I do not expect myself to catch a spike in some
> reading when I am testing my car in the street watching out for cops, cats,
> pedestrians, and other cars ;-)
>
> A display with some sort of data logging, replay, or X-Y plots (boost-O2,
> boost-RPM, RPM-O2, or RPM-knock sensor voltage!) would also be very cool.
>
> Philip

***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 11 Mar 2002 22:09:51 -0600
From: "Jannusch, Matt" <mjannusch@marketwatch.com>
Subject: RE: Team3S: Possible product

> I'd like to see a cheap alternative to the PCMCIA cards but I
> don't know how you're going to do the analog to digital
> conversion and buffering without a bunch of hardware.

PIC microcontrollers.  All the technology needed is onboard or easily
interfaced to the chip.  No problem.  Cost of about $4 per chip, and I
already own the programmer and compilers for other projects I played around
with to learn the technology.

It is very do-able.

- -Matt
'95 3000GT Spyder VR4

***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 11 Mar 2002 20:09:16 -0800
From: "fastmax" <fastmax@cox.net>
Subject: Re: Team3S: 5mm spacers

I don't see how you could get positive camber on the outside front with
6º of caster. If the fronts are turned into the corner the caster should
increase the negative camber on the outside front ?!?!?! what am I
missing here.

        Jim Berry
=================================================
- ----- Original Message -----
From: <pvg1@daimlerchrysler.com>
> The biggest 3S suspension flaw is the MacPhearson design with a poor
> geometry. The front outside wheel in turns leans towards the outside WAY
> too much. It is so bad that it is impossible to improve it significantly by
> changing camber or caster angles. I do not understand what a 7-mm wheel
> spacer would change.

***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 11 Mar 2002 23:41:52 EST
From: Luckyslug@aol.com
Subject: Team3S: My Tour-Sport repair

I have heard all about how its probably the wires when the ECS does not work.
In some cases, yes. But not in all. In my case, the wires were perfect. It
started as most....first it would blink on and off from time to time, but for
the most part it still worked ok. Then, after about a 6 month period, it got
worst and worse until it just didnt work at all. No lights, no control, no
nothing. (except horrible handling) The capacitors(mostly) and resisters tend
to fail after many years in the ECU. After reading that, I took the ECS
controller apart and found leaking capacitors (the 3 small ones) and two
resistors that "looked" bad. After changing the capacitors....it still didnt
work. But after also changing the resistors that "looked" bad, everything
works perfect again. So if yours does not even show any signs of life like
mine did, you might wanna take a look at the controller. By the way, im lazy
and found it hard to soder the new parts on to the top,(hardly any room to
work with) so i just put them on the bottom side. Either way, make sure you
hook the + and - up right. I got my parts from radio shack. The capacitors
match but they dont sell the small ass resistors that mitsubishi used so just
use the smallest they have. Worked for me.

Steven 91 SL
Nashville,TN

***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 12 Mar 2002 00:31:22 -0500
From: "Philip V. Glazatov" <gphilip@umich.edu>
Subject: Re: Team3S: 5mm spacers

The caster is okay, but there is another angle (if it has a name - I do not
know it) that measured the deviation of the wheel's steering axis from the
vertical in the plane perpendicular to the car.  Kind of like caster but in
the vertical plane perpendicular to the car. If this angle is too large,
and it is apparently very large on the 3S, the outside wheel will have a
lot of positive camber. Go outside and turn your front wheels.

Philip

At 11:09 PM 3/11/2002, fastmax wrote:
>I don't see how you could get positive camber on the outside front with
>6º of caster. If the fronts are turned into the corner the caster should
>increase the negative camber on the outside front ?!?!?! what am I
>missing here.
>
>         Jim Berry
>=================================================
>----- Original Message -----
>From: <pvg1@daimlerchrysler.com>
> > The biggest 3S suspension flaw is the MacPhearson design with a poor
> > geometry. The front outside wheel in turns leans towards the outside WAY
> > too much. It is so bad that it is impossible to improve it significantly by
> > changing camber or caster angles. I do not understand what a 7-mm wheel
> > spacer would change.
***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 11 Mar 2002 23:59:42 -0600
From: "Todd D.Shelton" <tds@brightok.net>
Subject: Re: Team3S: Front Strut Bar

- -----Original Message-----
From: Darren Schilberg <dschilberg@pobox.com>
To: Team3S@stealth-3000gt.st <Team3S@stealth-3000gt.st>
Cc: NETM1NDER@aol.com <NETM1NDER@aol.com>
Date: Monday, March 11, 2002 8:52 PM
Subject: RE: Team3S: Front Strut Bar

>His bar is not the only one available and bigger is not always better
>but I think his bar deserves at least equal billing as the big-name
>aftermarket ones.  I don't have the money to buy all three or four
>available and test them but anyone with a G-Tech can do this (we know
>those numbers might be bogus but the same G-Tech on the same car with
>the same driver is the best we can do).  I still think his bars will
>outperform others.  I'm open to being wrong but will hold out judgment
>until someone tests them head-to-head or we get more feedback on these
>bars.  Chris' bars have been proven on cars and they DO work but we just
>need more people to realize their potential and believe in them.
- -------------------------------------------------------------------------

Now that there are at least 3 other front/rear bars on the market,
available for us to choose from, you guys are going to have
to do a lot better than that little song and dance to get anyone
to cough up $300 for a bar that is worth $150 at best!

The competition now available means we are no longer forced
to overpay for this product any longer.

Isn't free enterprise great?!

We stood on our heads trying to get this particular
bar at a reasonable price when it was first offered
but were basically told to "take a hike" since there
was no alternative.

Well well ... things have certainly changed now haven't they?!

No matter how often the phrase "you get what you pay for" is
used in order to convince us to cough up an extra handful of
cash for a product that is not worth the cost, doesn't cost anywhere
near that to produce, all in the name of pure profit, it's just not
cutting it.  We're not buying it.

Just because something costs more it doesn't neccessarily
mean it is worth 2 or 3 times the other poducts on the market.

In fact this particular bar (I'm not naming names) is not much
if any different than other brands built for other cars that
sell for $150 - the high end bars.  The "low" enders run $70
or less.

This has become downright comical watching the few
select salemen of this particular bar grow more desperate
as each new (and affordable) bar is released for our cars.

I'm getting flash backs of the last time I was dealing
with a hard up used car salesman trying to unload something
that we both knew wasn't worth anywhere near what
he was trying to choke out of me.   LOL!

We were all told about "American Capitalism" and how
grand it was when we were faced with a single $300 take
it or leave it overpriced bar.  

Now we don't have to take it anymore.

Funny how things work out huh?!

The market and perhaps more importantly,
the *consumers* have spoken and I think they
have clearly said:

That dog don't hunt here anymore!

BTW - there's supposed to be some kind
of "rules" or "guidelines" about constantly
trying to hock the same item over and over
on the list.  I wish to God it was enforced on
this particular item for once .......

This has been consumer feedback report.

- - tds
http://www.brightok.net/~tds

***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 12 Mar 2002 01:18:35 -0500
From: "Darren Schilberg" <dschilberg@pobox.com>
Subject: RE: Team3S: Front Strut Bar

Todd -- Not sure what all the used car talk was for but this is not
intended to hock a certain bar over and over.  The question was brought
up and you answered it but with nothing to go by for technical content
if you want to get down to rules.  You just said where you got it and
for what price and pictures.  Wouldn't some kind of comment about how
the handling has helped, etc. have been helpful, bar sizes, etc?

I think this is as comical as watching other discussions but I don't
dare say which ones.  We have all sorts of springs, BOV, turbos, boost
controllers, etc. discussions so I don't see how this is any different.

And for price why don't we get Chris to list how much the raw material
is, his labor/machine time, profit and then do the same from Cusco and
everyone else.  First off, Cusco isn't about to do that.  Chris will but
I won't do that to him.  He and I discussed this when he installed his
bar on my car.  We should be happy others are willing to make parts for
our car and put their name and reputation on the line to try and help us
instead of extinguishing their light of hope.

I sold my G-Tech and if anyone near Pittsburgh, PA will loan me theirs
then I'll do some g-force runs and note the difference without and then
with these bars.

- --Flash!

- -----Original Message-----
From: Todd D.Shelton
Sent: Tuesday, March 12, 2002 01:00
 
>His bar is not the only one available and bigger is not always better
>but I think his bar deserves at least equal billing as the big-name
>aftermarket ones.  I don't have the money to buy all three or four
>available and test them but anyone with a G-Tech can do this (we know
>those numbers might be bogus but the same G-Tech on the same car with
>the same driver is the best we can do).  I still think his bars will
>outperform others.  I'm open to being wrong but will hold out judgment
>until someone tests them head-to-head or we get more feedback on these
>bars.  Chris' bars have been proven on cars and they DO work but we
just
>need more people to realize their potential and believe in them.

Now that there are at least 3 other front/rear bars on the market,
available for us to choose from, you guys are going to have
to do a lot better than that little song and dance to get anyone
to cough up $300 for a bar that is worth $150 at best!

The competition now available means we are no longer forced
to overpay for this product any longer.

Isn't free enterprise great?!

We stood on our heads trying to get this particular
bar at a reasonable price when it was first offered
but were basically told to "take a hike" since there
was no alternative.

Well well ... things have certainly changed now haven't they?!

No matter how often the phrase "you get what you pay for" is
used in order to convince us to cough up an extra handful of
cash for a product that is not worth the cost, doesn't cost anywhere
near that to produce, all in the name of pure profit, it's just not
cutting it.  We're not buying it.

Just because something costs more it doesn't neccessarily
mean it is worth 2 or 3 times the other poducts on the market.

In fact this particular bar (I'm not naming names) is not much
if any different than other brands built for other cars that
sell for $150 - the high end bars.  The "low" enders run $70
or less.

This has become downright comical watching the few
select salemen of this particular bar grow more desperate
as each new (and affordable) bar is released for our cars.

I'm getting flash backs of the last time I was dealing
with a hard up used car salesman trying to unload something
that we both knew wasn't worth anywhere near what
he was trying to choke out of me.   LOL!

We were all told about "American Capitalism" and how
grand it was when we were faced with a single $300 take
it or leave it overpriced bar.  

Now we don't have to take it anymore.

Funny how things work out huh?!

The market and perhaps more importantly,
the *consumers* have spoken and I think they
have clearly said:

That dog don't hunt here anymore!

BTW - there's supposed to be some kind
of "rules" or "guidelines" about constantly
trying to hock the same item over and over
on the list.  I wish to God it was enforced on
this particular item for once .......

This has been consumer feedback report.

***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 12 Mar 2002 00:52:28 -0600
From: "Todd D.Shelton" <tds@brightok.net>
Subject: Re: Team3S: Front Strut Bar

- -----Original Message-----
From: Darren Schilberg <dschilberg@pobox.com>
To: Team3S@stealth-3000gt.st <Team3S@stealth-3000gt.st>
Date: Tuesday, March 12, 2002 12:19 AM
Subject: RE: Team3S: Front Strut Bar

>Todd -- Not sure what all the used car talk was for but this is not
>intended to hock a certain bar over and over.  The question was brought
>up and you answered it but with nothing to go by for technical content
>if you want to get down to rules.  You just said where you got it and
>for what price and pictures.  Wouldn't some kind of comment about how
>the handling has helped, etc. have been helpful, bar sizes, etc?
>
>I think this is as comical as watching other discussions but I don't
>dare say which ones.  We have all sorts of springs, BOV, turbos, boost
>controllers, etc. discussions so I don't see how this is any different.
>
>And for price why don't we get Chris to list how much the raw material
>is, his labor/machine time, profit and then do the same from Cusco and
>everyone else.  First off, Cusco isn't about to do that.  Chris will but
>I won't do that to him.  He and I discussed this when he installed his
>bar on my car.  We should be happy others are willing to make parts for
>our car and put their name and reputation on the line to try and help us
>instead of extinguishing their light of hope.
>
>I sold my G-Tech and if anyone near Pittsburgh, PA will loan me theirs
>then I'll do some g-force runs and note the difference without and then
>with these bars.
>
>--Flash!

- ------------------------------------------------------------------------

I knew you would enjoy my consumer feedback report.

Let's set a few things straight:

This particular bar (yours) has in fact
been hocked on this list more times than
I can count. (At least 15 or 20 that I can remember)

Now that a similiarly overpriced rear bar has been
built, it's the same ol' song and dance again. (over and over)

Perhaps the actual creator has held to the rules?

"If you post something "For Sale", only do so once a week."

But as anyone who hasn't been asleep already knows, there
are at least two "associates" or go out of their way, above
the call of duty to do their upmost best to promote, make public,
and dare I say *sell* this exact same product.

This goes on consistantly on 2 mailings lists and 3SI.org.

It was bad enough because it is in fact overpriced and anyone
who has priced any other bars on the market for any length of
time knows this.  Other 3S owners who happen to know a thing
or two about fabrication and product have not only *confirmed* this
but have stated they could build it out of TITANIUM for $300!

The price was bad enough but now certain people (not naming any
names again) are now making claims that this particular bar
*outperforms* ALL the other affordable bars that are now
available.

Well you should know, they've already tried this crap on 3SI.org and
we (myself and several others) called them on it.  We asked them
to put up (produce scientific EVIDENCE) or shut up.

You guys want to hock an overpriced $300 bar - go for - but
don't be making stuff [unfounded claims]up in an attempt to
trash your newfound competition, continue to overcharge and
expect all of us to sit by quietly.

You trash one of the other bar's construction, you wrote:

quote:

"That will be so flimsy that it is scary to think they trust it on their
car."

You haven't even used one!  It's bad
enough to make up unsubstantiated and
undocument claims about *your* bar being *better* but now
you are going out of your way to trash other bars even though
you *admit* you haven't used, tested or inspected them!

 What the *%#$ is that?!

You go on to write:

"I'm open to being wrong but will hold out judgment
until someone tests them head-to-head or we get more
feedback on these bars"

Doesn't look to me like you've held out judement at all.
Too busy trashing the competition and making up
false claims about your bar to do that.

You wrote:

"His bar is not the only one available and bigger is not always better
but I think his bar deserves at least equal billing as the big-name
aftermarket ones"

Holding out judgement again I see?!

Seems you want "equal billing" in regards to "performance"
but then the price is more than two times as much!

If it's so great then why make up stuff, claims and then
trash the others without even really knowing how
they work, perform, test etc?!

Like I said:  this is a comedy - a comedy of contradictions
and desperation.

Make it go away .....

- - tds
http://www.brightok.net/~tds

***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***

------------------------------

End of Team3S: 3000GT & Stealth V1 #779
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