Team3S: 3000GT & Stealth Saturday, March 9
2002 Volume 01 : Number
776
----------------------------------------------------------------------
Date:
Fri, 08 Mar 2002 09:02:39 -0500
From: "Tom Terflinger" <
terflit@hotmail.com>
Subject:
Team3S: Recalls and Warranties!
I took my car to my local mitsu dealer
yesterday for a cruise control
problem and mentioned the transfer case
recall to the tech working on my
car. He didnt have a clue but he put my vin
# into the system and pulled up
a cool screen that showed any outstanding
recalls on my car. There were none
right now but more importantly that same
screen showed warrenty info. This
is the cool part it keeps a running total
of every owner of the car where
they had service done and what work was
done. My car had $8,989.00 that cost
mitsubishi by doing work under
warranty. Now they can even tell you which
parts were replaced and when, I
imagine this would help anyone that has a
part in question they are thinking
may or may not need replaced.
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 8 Mar 2002 09:42:25
-0500
From: "Darren Schilberg" <
dschilberg@pobox.com>
Subject: RE:
Team3S: Recalls and Warranties!
Is this only if you took your car to the
dealer though? If you took it
to Joe's Speed Shack then I doubt they
would follow through the chain to
Mitsu and register what was fixed.
Right?
Here in PA the inspection places now just use the modem to send
the
results to the State so if you try to go somewhere else they will
see
that your car failed at 5 other places first. Makes it a little
harder
to sneak by.
But this is definitely a neat way to follow up on
past work if the owner
was out-of-state or if the car was from an auction,
etc.
- --Flash!
1995 VR-4 purchased from a dealer who got it from an
out-of-state
auction
- -----Original Message-----
From: Tom
Terflinger
Sent: Friday, March 08, 2002 09:03
I took my car to
my local mitsu dealer yesterday for a cruise control
problem and mentioned
the transfer case recall to the tech working on my
car. He didnt have a
clue but he put my vin # into the system and pulled
up
a cool screen that
showed any outstanding recalls on my car. There were
none
right now but
more importantly that same screen showed warrenty info.
This
is the cool
part it keeps a running total of every owner of the car
where
they had
service done and what work was done. My car had $8,989.00 that
cost
mitsubishi by doing work under warranty. Now they can even tell you
which
parts were replaced and when, I imagine this would help anyone that has
a
part in question they are thinking may or may not need
replaced.
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 8 Mar 2002 09:10:13
-0600
From: "Jannusch, Matt" <
mjannusch@marketwatch.com>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: Ham/CB antenna installation
> The standard-size magnet
mount CB antenna from Radio Shack
> here in the states (about 36" I
reckon) blows off at 100
> mph when on top of the metal roof of a
car.
I use one of the little window-clip things with a shorty antenna
(from the
handheld CB's) on it. Works fine for a more stealthy setup,
and for Spyder
owners there's no metal in the roof or rear hatch cover so the
only other
choice is on the hood which is worse since there's a lack of truly
flat
spots.
A little shorter range, but fine for most
anything.
- -Matt
'95 3000GT Spyder VR4
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 8 Mar 2002 10:41:41
-0500
From: "Darren Schilberg" <
dschilberg@pobox.com>
Subject: RE:
Team3S: Ham/CB antenna installation
Good point. The only other one
I would recommend is the one that goes
in the slot between the hatch and the
body like some police cars have.
It looks like it is just shut in the trunk
but I think it is mounted
somewhere. Then you can put it above the rear
bumper and buy the long
antenna if necessary.
- --Flash!
-
-----Original Message-----
From: Jannusch, Matt
Sent: Friday, March 08,
2002 10:10
I use one of the little window-clip things with a shorty
antenna (from
the
handheld CB's) on it. Works fine for a more
stealthy setup, and for
Spyder
owners there's no metal in the roof or rear
hatch cover so the only
other
choice is on the hood which is worse since
there's a lack of truly flat
spots.
A little shorter range, but fine
for most anything.
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 8 Mar 2002 11:17:44
EST
From:
DonBrando36@aol.comSubject: Team3S:
(no subject)
Has anyone ever made a N/A 3000GT a
single turbo. I tried 3si.org but
they're not
responding?
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 8 Mar 2002 11:03:55
-0600
From: "Jannusch, Matt" <
mjannusch@marketwatch.com>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: (no subject)
> Has anyone ever
made a N/A 3000GT a single
> turbo. I tried 3si.org but they're not
responding?
Then probably nobody has done it.
How would you solve
the problem of merging the exhaust from both engine
banks together to force
through the turbo? Or just put the turbo on the
front bank and hope for
the best?
Doesn't hardly seem worth all the trouble.
-
-Matt
'95 3000GT Spyder VR4
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 8 Mar 2002 12:11:49
-0500
From: "Kevin Schappell" <
kevin@schappell.com>
Subject: RE:
Team3S: (no subject)
I know of one person who has done it. He went
to Virginia Tech. but has
since sold the car. You should be able to
search 3SI.org and find the posts
about it. It was a task to get the
exhaust routed but the guy did it. One
member did verify the car was
real and there were pictures posted. No
traction but it pulled hard at
highway speeds.
Kevin
- -----Original Message-----
From:
owner-team3s@team3s.com
[mailto:owner-team3s@team3s.com]On Behalf
Of Jannusch, Matt
Sent: Friday,
March 08, 2002 12:04 PM
To:
'DonBrando36@aol.com';
Team3S@stealth-3000gt.stSubject:
RE: Team3S: (no subject)
> Has anyone ever
made a N/A 3000GT a single
> turbo. I tried 3si.org but they're not
responding?
Then probably nobody has done it.
How would you solve
the problem of merging the exhaust from both engine
banks together to force
through the turbo? Or just put the turbo on the
front bank and hope for
the best?
Doesn't hardly seem worth all the trouble.
-
-Matt
'95 3000GT Spyder VR4
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 8 Mar 2002 09:13:22
-0800
From: "fastmax" <
fastmax@cox.net>
Subject: Re: Team3S:
(no subject)
Would be an interesting experiment though --- use an
asymmetric setup.
The compression ratio only allows you to run limited boost
anyway. I think
CART ran an asymmetric setup on some of the tracks. A turbo
and fuel
controller may be enough ---- with 5 psi of boost you could probably
get
by without an intercooler.
Go for it --- we'll root for
you ;-)
Jim
Berry
===================================================
- ----- Original
Message -----
From: "Jannusch, Matt" <
mjannusch@marketwatch.com>
>
> Has anyone ever made a N/A 3000GT a single
>
> turbo. I tried 3si.org but they're not responding?
>
>
Then probably nobody has done it.
>
> How would you solve the
problem of merging the exhaust from both engine
> banks together to force
through the turbo? Or just put the turbo on the
> front bank and
hope for the best?
>
> Doesn't hardly seem worth all the
trouble.
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 8 Mar 2002 12:55:43
-0500
From:
pvg1@daimlerchrysler.comSubject:
Re: Team3S: Re: Percentage in drivetrain loss
Jeff, you are right. This
really is an impossible question without actually
using an engine
dyno.
I tried several models and the number simply do not add up. I
assumed a 3rd
gear pull with the horsepower peaking at 6000 rpm. The CarTest,
I think,
underestimated tire loss, and overestimates the drivetrain loss.
You'd have
500 crank HP using this model. If you use the coastdown horsepower
loss
data (which assumes there is no drivetrain loss increase under load)
then
you'd have only 420 HP. Several other pseudo-scientific models that I
used
(and they won't stand any public criticism) showed numbers closer to
the
485 HP number that you came up with. It could be lower by about 10-15 HP
if
you used higher than recommended tire pressure when you ran your car on
the
dyno.
Philip
Jeff.A.Williamson@jci.com
wrote:
Hehe Phillip. We all made our power runs in 3rd gear from about 2Krpms
to
redline @7Krpms.
Jeff.
pvg1@daimlerchrysler.com on
03/07/2002 11:10:30 AM
To:
Jeff.A.Williamson@jci.comSubject:
Re: Team3S: Re: Percentage in drivetrain loss
Good question, Jeff. Your
actual crank horsepower is in between 485 and
442!
<just trying to make
you mad ;-) >
What was the gear and the car speed at which that wheel
horsepower was
recorded on your car and on Joe's car?
Third?
Philip
-
-------------------------------------------------
Jeff.A.Williamson@jci.com
wrote:
OK. Now that I've gone through all the posts on this latest thread
about
drivetrain loss, I'm still not sure how to calculate my hp. I was with
Jack
and the others at the AWD dyno in Chicago. (And no, Jack's no
Arnold
Schwarzenegger, but he runs a close second!!!) Joe's bone stock '96
TT
measured 238hp at the wheels. So if you do the math, and assuming he
has
320hp at the crank, he had a 26% drivetrain loss or 82hp. My car ran
360hp
at the wheels. So how much crank horsepower do I have, 485 or 442? Or
is
this really an impossible question without actually using an engine
dyno?
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 8 Mar 2002 09:58:50
-0800
From: "Gross, Erik" <
erik.gross@intel.com>
Subject:
Team3S: NA to Single Turbo Conversion
Maybe looking at some of the 3G
Eclipse GT turbo kits would give you some
ideas... They still have the
6G72 block (SOHC 9:1) heads, but the block is
turned around (tranny on
driver's side).
http://www.neweclipse.org/30forcedinduction.htmThere's
a kit at 5psi that takes the stock 146fwhp to 259fwhp. You'd still
have
to deal with your higher 10:1 compression, but apparently it can
be
done. I've spent many hours with my head in the engine bay of a
2000
Eclipse GT and a '95 3000GT. If they can do it in the Eclipse,
then I'm
pretty sure there's a way in the 3000GT.
- --Erik
'95
VR-4, ex-base-model owner
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 08 Mar 2002 10:31:29
-0800
From: Dean Benz <
dbenz@usa.net>
Subject: Team3S: Porsche
Monoblocks?
With all the discussion of Big Reds, and AP Calipers, I
haven't seen anything
on the Porsche Monoblock calipers.
Other than
the overpriced Movit kit from Ultimate Garage, is anybody offering
a
Monoblock upgrade?
I would think that the calipers from the new 996TT
would give the APs a run
for their money, and possibly have a larger number
of pad optons.
I'd be tempted to do the R&D, but I can't even find
the calipers, or their
part numbers anywhere on the web to check into
pricing.
Thoughts?
Dean Benz
dbenz@usa.net*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 8 Mar 2002 13:55:49
-0500
From: "Furman, Russell" <
RFurman2@MassMutual.com>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: Porsche Monoblocks?
Why not just call a Porsche
dealer? Also as far as brackets and SS lines I
bet KVR
performance could round out the kit for us..... Have you
asked
them if they have something like this in the works?
>
-----Original Message-----
> From: Dean Benz [SMTP:dbenz@usa.net]
>
Sent: Friday, March 08, 2002 1:31 PM
> To:
Team3S@stealth-3000gt.st>
Subject: Team3S: Porsche Monoblocks?
> Importance: Low
>
>
With all the discussion of Big Reds, and AP Calipers, I haven't seen
>
anything
> on the Porsche Monoblock calipers.
>
> Other than
the overpriced Movit kit from Ultimate Garage, is anybody
>
offering
> a Monoblock upgrade?
>
> I would think that the
calipers from the new 996TT would give the APs a
> run
> for their
money, and possibly have a larger number of pad optons.
>
> I'd be
tempted to do the R&D, but I can't even find the calipers, or their
>
part numbers anywhere on the web to check into pricing.
>
>
Thoughts?
>
> Dean Benz
>
dbenz@usa.net*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 08 Mar 2002 20:20:02
+0100
From: Roger Gerl <
roger.gerl@bluewin.ch>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: NA to Single Turbo Conversion
>There's a kit at 5psi that
takes the stock 146fwhp to 259fwhp.
There is no prove for this ! It says
"estimated horsepower" and the chart
is an excel graph. Doing the math shows
that a 50-60hp is more a good
estimate on 5 psi. Also I doubt that it is
working because the exhaust
parts are missing as well as any notes about the
cooling of the turbo (oil,
water) ! The exhaust part is very important
as for a single turbo setup
this is a lot of work and the result is a very,
very long exhaust manifold
design, far away from good. It makes zero sense
to make a single turbo on a
V engine.
Roger
93'3000GT TT
www.rtec.ch*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 08 Mar 2002 20:22:10
+0100
From: Roger Gerl <
roger.gerl@bluewin.ch>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: Porsche Monoblocks?
Aren't the 993 or 996 calipers the
Monoblock ones we are using on the big
reds ?
Roger
93'3000GT
TT
> With all the discussion of Big Reds, and AP Calipers, I
haven't seen
> > anything
> > on the Porsche Monoblock
calipers.
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 8 Mar 2002 11:30:28
-0800 (PST)
From: menalteed <
menalteed@yahoo.com>
Subject:
Team3S: Turbo waste gate
I'm learning quite a bit from the search pages
and
this thread, but still have a long way to go to get it
all in this
non
technical head of mine so I do have some simple
questions that maybe
one of you ace 3000S fellows
could answer.
Mt 92 Stealth TT is still
waiting for the weather to
turn before I can finish my install of the 13G
turbos
and clean my
intercoolers. I want to get the maximum HP out of
my
new 13G's and from what I've been gleaning the next
step would be a
boost control. Now everyone says, "or many say", that
it would be ideal
to have about 14 PSI for the boost
setting, this would
not put overdue
strain on the engine and would get me
some more horse power. I also have
heard that the
stock turbo, "first
generation, as my 92"
came with a
9 PSI limit and the second generation came
with a 14 PSI limit. My 13G's came
new with new
wastegates.
Now does anyone know what the 13G wastegate is
set at
and if it is already set to 14 PSI, then wouldn't a
boost control
just be redundant, also some say I can
expect no gain in HP, that makes me
mist up after
spending the $1400 on the new turbos.What do I need to
do
now to get a significant increase in forward motion
that is the next step and
also cost effective, I'm
running low on moola but as long as everything
is
being worked on I would like to think I'm gaining
power and speed, and
if it is not to much would like
to do the work now while my mind body tools
and
fingers are all scraped up and full of permanent
fingernail
grease anyway.
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 8 Mar 2002 13:35:28
-0600
From: "cody" <
overclck@satx.rr.com>
Subject: RE:
Team3S: NA to Single Turbo Conversion
I find you are always sooo negative
for a lot of things Roger. With 8:1
Compression ratio, a 5 psi boost
would equate to around 50-60 hp, but on
10:1, more can be expected... I
can't get to that site right now, so I
have no idea what all their stuff
includes, but I can tell you that one
of the most potent turbo engines ever
made was indeed a single turbo
V-6, in the Buick Grand National.
- -Cody
- -----Original Message-----
From:
owner-team3s@team3s.com
[mailto:owner-team3s@team3s.com] On Behalf
Of Roger Gerl
Sent: Friday,
March 08, 2002 1:20 PM
To:
Team3S@stealth-3000gt.stSubject:
Re: Team3S: NA to Single Turbo Conversion
>There's a kit at 5psi that
takes the stock 146fwhp to 259fwhp.
There is no prove for this ! It says
"estimated horsepower" and the
chart
is an excel graph. Doing the math
shows that a 50-60hp is more a good
estimate on 5 psi. Also I doubt that it
is working because the exhaust
parts are missing as well as any notes about
the cooling of the turbo
(oil,
water) ! The exhaust part is very
important as for a single turbo setup
this is a lot of work and the
result is a very, very long exhaust
manifold
design, far away from good.
It makes zero sense to make a single turbo
on a
V
engine.
Roger
93'3000GT TT
www.rtec.ch*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 8 Mar 2002 14:37:15
-0500
From: "Furman, Russell" <
RFurman2@MassMutual.com>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: NA to Single Turbo Conversion
The engine was potent if that 2
piece crank held up.......... DAMHIK......
been there done that when I
was 12
> -----Original Message-----
> From: cody
[SMTP:overclck@satx.rr.com]
> Sent: Friday, March 08, 2002 2:35 PM
>
To: 'Roger Gerl';
Team3S@stealth-3000gt.st>
Subject: RE: Team3S: NA to Single Turbo Conversion
>
> I find you
are always sooo negative for a lot of things Roger. With 8:1
>
Compression ratio, a 5 psi boost would equate to around 50-60 hp, but on
>
10:1, more can be expected... I can't get to that site right now, so
I
> have no idea what all their stuff includes, but I can tell you that
one
> of the most potent turbo engines ever made was indeed a single
turbo
> V-6, in the Buick Grand National.
>
> -Cody
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From:
owner-team3s@team3s.com
[mailto:owner-team3s@team3s.com] On Behalf
> Of Roger Gerl
> Sent:
Friday, March 08, 2002 1:20 PM
> To:
Team3S@stealth-3000gt.st>
Subject: Re: Team3S: NA to Single Turbo Conversion
>
>
>
>There's a kit at 5psi that takes the stock 146fwhp to 259fwhp.
>
> There is no prove for this ! It says "estimated horsepower" and
the
> chart
> is an excel graph. Doing the math shows that a
50-60hp is more a good
> estimate on 5 psi. Also I doubt that it is
working because the exhaust
> parts are missing as well as any notes
about the cooling of the turbo
> (oil,
> water) ! The exhaust
part is very important as for a single turbo setup
>
> this is a
lot of work and the result is a very, very long exhaust
> manifold
> design, far away from good. It makes zero sense to make a single
turbo
> on a
> V engine.
>
> Roger
> 93'3000GT
TT
>
www.rtec.ch***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 8 Mar 2002 14:50:27
EST
From:
DonBrando36@aol.comSubject: Team3S:
alright what about a twin turbo
hello again, what
about a twin turbo system on my 93 dohc 3000GT. what
would i have to
change inorder to make it like the VR-4 block. I dont want
to get a
vr4 jsut the same power.
brandon
93 3000GT
venom 400 K&N borla
denso msd
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 8 Mar 2002 13:55:36
-0600
From: "cody" <
overclck@satx.rr.com>
Subject: RE:
Team3S: alright what about a twin turbo
Some have already done
this. Again, search on 3si.org...
Regardless.... to make the
block the same, you would need a new block
:)
That's just the way it
is... You could get by on turbocharging what you
have, but you wont get
the same power as a vr-4. The only way to get
that kind of power
afforably is to use nitrous.
- -Cody
- -----Original
Message-----
From:
owner-team3s@team3s.com
[mailto:owner-team3s@team3s.com] On Behalf
Of
DonBrando36@aol.comSent: Friday, March
08, 2002 1:50 PM
To:
Team3S@stealth-3000gt.stSubject:
Team3S: alright what about a twin turbo
hello again,
what about a twin turbo system on my 93 dohc 3000GT.
what
would i have to
change inorder to make it like the VR-4 block. I dont
want
to get a
vr4 jsut the same power.
brandon
93 3000GT
venom 400 K&N borla
denso msd
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 8 Mar 2002 20:58:49
+0100
From: "Mikael Kenson" <
vr4@bahnhof.se>
Subject: Re: Team3S: NA
to Single Turbo Conversion
- ----- Original Message -----
From:
"Roger Gerl" <
roger.gerl@bluewin.ch>
>..." It
makes zero sense to make a single turbo on a V engine."...
-
-----------------------------
Actually I think there are several reasons to
build a single turbo system for our cars (if you aim for BIG power)...
If
you wan't 700-1000 HP you need BIG turbos.
Big turbos cost alot and one
is cheaper than two...
It's almost impossible to find space for big twin
turbos with external wastegates in our cars.
The intake will be much more
effective if the turbo is located on the right side of the engine compared to
the one that sits close to the firewall.
It's easier to control boost on
a single system.
The long exhaust runners are not a problem, the length
of the runner isn't crutial for the performance.
Intercooler and piping
is easier with a single set up. Less bends, better flow.
Shorter air
pipes on both intake and presure side.
Spoolup will be as good as with
twins.
The power to cost ratio is better.
Better flow in exhaust
system.
Less weight.
LOOKS NICE too :)
I would choose one
ball bearing Turbonetics T66 or T72 before all turbos that are on the market for
our cars.
Yes, there will be a BIG polished single Turbonetics turbo with
a huge HKS waste gate in my car :)
/Mikael Kenson
***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 8 Mar 2002 17:39:30
-0000
From: "Sam Shelat" <
sshelat@erols.com>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: Front Strut Bar
One question I have is this. Of every strut
bar for every car I have seen,
about 1/2 dozen different types, the bars have
a link right after the strut
circle attached to the bar going across the
motor. It seems like these bars
could have been designed cheaper w/o
the "hinged" connection here. I
suppose this is done to let both sides
of the car to rise and fall
separately while maintaining the orientation of
the strut towers
horizontally. Why would it be better to just bolt the
two towers together
for a street/strip car? If this is indeed better,
then why don't the big
name comapnies make them this way?
Sam
-
-----Original Message-----
From: Darren Schilberg <
dschilberg@pobox.com>
To:
Team3S@stealth-3000gt.st <
Team3S@stealth-3000gt.st>
Date:
Friday, March 08, 2002 8:25 AM
Subject: RE: Team3S: Front Strut
Bar
>Not to put down Todd's choice in front strut tower bars but check
out
>www.tecperformance.com as well. I know Chris personally and he
has
>engineered things amazingly (knowing the bends, welds, etc. all
affect
>stiffness). He can answer any questions you may have but
read his page
>first before asking something that is already cleared
up.
>
>--Flash!
>1995 VR-4 and tested both his bars for the
list
>
>-----Original Message-----
>From: Todd
D.Shelton
>Sent: Thursday, March 07, 2002 00:55
>
>Brad, I got
my front strut bar from Chris :
Supermacnum1@aol.com>Mine was $115
shipped :
http://www.qsl.net/n5mya/motor1.jpg>Smaller
pic:
http://www.brightok.net/~tds/motor1_s.jpg>
>He
also makes a double bar for just a little more and
>he builds rear strut
bars at reasonable prices too.
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 8 Mar 2002 15:56:03
-0700
From: "Floyd, Jim" <
Jim_Floyd@maxtor.com>
Subject: RE:
Team3S: Front Strut Bar
Sam,
The TEC strut bar does not have any
"hinges".
It is a solid piece of metal, no give.
It even has gussets
welded into the bends to prevent any flex.
www.tecperformance.com (I
think)
Jim
- -----Original Message-----
From: Sam Shelat
[mailto:sshelat@erols.com]
Sent: Friday, March 08, 2002 10:40 AM
To:
dschilberg@pobox.com;
Team3S@stealth-3000gt.stSubject:
Re: Team3S: Front Strut Bar
One question I have is this. Of every
strut bar for every car I have seen,
about 1/2 dozen different types, the
bars have a link right after the strut
circle attached to the bar going
across the motor. It seems like these bars
could have been designed
cheaper w/o the "hinged" connection here. I
suppose this is done to let
both sides of the car to rise and fall
separately while maintaining the
orientation of the strut towers
horizontally. Why would it be better to
just bolt the two towers together
for a street/strip car? If this is
indeed better, then why don't the big
name comapnies make them this
way?
Sam
- -----Original Message-----
From: Darren Schilberg <
dschilberg@pobox.com>
To:
Team3S@stealth-3000gt.st <
Team3S@stealth-3000gt.st>
Date:
Friday, March 08, 2002 8:25 AM
Subject: RE: Team3S: Front Strut
Bar
>Not to put down Todd's choice in front strut tower bars but check
out
>www.tecperformance.com as well. I know Chris personally and he
has
>engineered things amazingly (knowing the bends, welds, etc. all
affect
>stiffness). He can answer any questions you may have but
read his page
>first before asking something that is already cleared
up.
>
>--Flash!
>1995 VR-4 and tested both his bars for the
list
>
>-----Original Message-----
>From: Todd
D.Shelton
>Sent: Thursday, March 07, 2002 00:55
>
>Brad, I got
my front strut bar from Chris :
Supermacnum1@aol.com>Mine was $115
shipped :
http://www.qsl.net/n5mya/motor1.jpg>Smaller
pic:
http://www.brightok.net/~tds/motor1_s.jpg>
>He
also makes a double bar for just a little more and
>he builds rear strut
bars at reasonable prices too.
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 8 Mar 2002 17:57:25
-0000
From: "Sam Shelat" <
sshelat@erols.com>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: NA to Single Turbo Conversion
I think the guy moved the battery
and ran the pipe from the back to merge
with the front pipe routed under the
intake pipe. It looked like it could
fry everything in that corner of
the engine bay! I actually want to do this
on my 2001 Grand Prix GT,
but its so much simpler since there is already a
crossover pipe on the back
of the motor (drivers side) but thats also the
side that the intake gets fed
from---very convenient--besides the fact that
GM computers can handle A/F
with small boost pressures with no problem
Sam
- -----Original
Message-----
From: Gross, Erik <
erik.gross@intel.com>
To:
'DonBrando36@aol.com' <
DonBrando36@aol.com>;
Team3S@stealth-3000gt.st<
Team3S@stealth-3000gt.st>
Date:
Friday, March 08, 2002 5:59 PM
Subject: Team3S: NA to Single Turbo
Conversion
>Maybe looking at some of the 3G Eclipse GT turbo kits
would give you some
>ideas... They still have the 6G72 block (SOHC
9:1) heads, but the block is
>turned around (tranny on driver's
side).
>
>http://www.neweclipse.org/30forcedinduction.htm
>
>There's
a kit at 5psi that takes the stock 146fwhp to 259fwhp. You'd
still
>have to deal with your higher 10:1 compression, but apparently it
can be
>done. I've spent many hours with my head in the engine bay
of a 2000
>Eclipse GT and a '95 3000GT. If they can do it in the
Eclipse, then I'm
>pretty sure there's a way in the
3000GT.
>
>--Erik
>'95 VR-4, ex-base-model
owner
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 8 Mar 2002 18:02:57
-0000
From: "Sam Shelat" <
sshelat@erols.com>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: NA to Single Turbo Conversion
Stock GN engines are good for about
400h.p. without mods to the bottom end
to get them to survive. Yes,
they are very potent in full modded form, but
the engine and valve-train were
really only meant for about 300h.p. tops.
As well as the wimpy 200r4 tranny
that needs a total perf. rebuild to just
survive in the stock car! I
love the GNs, but there is alot to do to get
the big numbers safely (like
stageII block etc) that we do not have the
luxury or need of till about 700?
horse.
Sam
- -----Original Message-----
From: Furman, Russell
<
RFurman2@MassMutual.com>
To:
'cody' <
overclck@satx.rr.com>
Cc: 'Team 3S'
<
Team3S@stealth-3000gt.st>
Date:
Friday, March 08, 2002 7:38 PM
Subject: RE: Team3S: NA to Single Turbo
Conversion
>The engine was potent if that 2 piece crank held
up.......... DAMHIK......
>been there done that when I was
12
>
>> -----Original Message-----
>> From: cody
[SMTP:overclck@satx.rr.com]
>> Sent: Friday, March 08, 2002 2:35
PM
>> To: 'Roger Gerl';
Team3S@stealth-3000gt.st>>
Subject: RE: Team3S: NA to Single Turbo Conversion
>>
>> I
find you are always sooo negative for a lot of things Roger. With
8:1
>> Compression ratio, a 5 psi boost would equate to around 50-60
hp, but on
>> 10:1, more can be expected... I can't get to that
site right now, so I
>> have no idea what all their stuff includes, but
I can tell you that one
>> of the most potent turbo engines ever made
was indeed a single turbo
>> V-6, in the Buick Grand
National.
>>
>> -Cody
>>
>> -----Original
Message-----
>> From:
owner-team3s@team3s.com
[mailto:owner-team3s@team3s.com] On Behalf
>> Of Roger Gerl
>>
Sent: Friday, March 08, 2002 1:20 PM
>> To:
Team3S@stealth-3000gt.st>>
Subject: Re: Team3S: NA to Single Turbo Conversion
>>
>>
>There's a kit at 5psi that takes the stock 146fwhp to
259fwhp.
>>
>> There is no prove for this ! It says "estimated
horsepower" and the
>> chart
>> is an excel graph. Doing the
math shows that a 50-60hp is more a good
>> estimate on 5 psi. Also I
doubt that it is working because the exhaust
>> parts are missing as
well as any notes about the cooling of the turbo
>> (oil,
>>
water) ! The exhaust part is very important as for a single turbo
setup
>>
>> this is a lot of work and the result is a very,
very long exhaust
>> manifold
>> design, far away from good.
It makes zero sense to make a single turbo
>> on a
>> V
engine.
>>
>> Roger
>> 93'3000GT TT
>>
www.rtec.ch*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 08 Mar 2002 17:19:23
-0600
From: Elbert Klob <
elbertklob@megared.net.mx>
Subject:
Team3S: Links
I have a 1992 Stealth (NA) and I have a problem with the
front
stabilizer bar. My right link broke and I ordered a new set. When
they
arrived along with other parts I took the car to be repaired. The
other
parts fit with no problems. However, the links that I was sent are
"U"
shaped, the links on my car are "L" shaped. The dealer in
California
that sent them to me can not find a reference to "L" shaped links
on the
front. Has anyone run into this problem before? Any help will
be
appreciated.
Al
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 08 Mar 2002 15:18:56
-0800
From: Dean Benz <
dbenz@usa.net>
Subject: Re: [RE: Team3S:
Porsche Monoblocks?]
Perhaps I am mistaken, but most of the Big Red kits
are the 2 piece Brembo
calipers w/12mm bolts, not the monoblocks.
The
only big red kit that I know contains the monoblocks are the Movit
kits.
The 996TT calipers are the biggest 4 pot monoblocks that Porsche
makes for a
production car as far as I am aware. They have a 6 pot, but that
is the Carbon
Fiber / Ceramic stuff for the GT2, and I can only imagine how
expensive they
are.
Dean Benz
dbenz@usa.net*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Sat, 9 Mar 2002 00:26:16
+0100
From: "Roger Gerl" <
roger.gerl@bluewin.ch>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: alright what about a twin turbo
Get a TwinTurbo engine with
everything on it. They are available from Japan,
some new some
used.
Roger
93'3000GT TT
> hello
again, what about a twin turbo system on my 93 dohc 3000GT.
what
>
would i have to change inorder to make it like the VR-4 block. I
dont
want
> to get a vr4 jsut the same power.
>
>
brandon
> 93 3000GT
> venom 400 K&N borla denso
msd
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Sat, 9 Mar 2002 00:33:41
+0100
From: "Roger Gerl" <
roger.gerl@bluewin.ch>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: NA to Single Turbo Conversion
The math should be somewhere in
the archives.. go search for it.
Turbocharged NA's failed after 5 psi of
boost, fact. Fit a single turbo
system fed by both bank in OUR engine bay NOT
a GN or is the GN's block
angle the same ? Is it also built in sideways and
do they also have soooo
much place as we do ? Install the turbo in place of
the battery, do all the
piping from the ports to the turbo and down to the
main cat and then lets
speak of underhood temp.
Not negative ...
realistic !
Roger
93'3000GT TT
- ----- Original Message
-----
From: "cody" <
overclck@satx.rr.com>
To: "'Roger
Gerl'" <
roger.gerl@bluewin.ch>;
<
Team3S@stealth-3000gt.st>
Sent:
Friday, March 08, 2002 8:35 PM
Subject: RE: Team3S: NA to Single Turbo
Conversion
> I find you are always sooo negative for a lot of things
Roger. With 8:1
> Compression ratio, a 5 psi boost would equate to
around 50-60 hp, but on
> 10:1, more can be expected... I can't get
to that site right now, so I
> have no idea what all their stuff includes,
but I can tell you that one
> of the most potent turbo engines ever made
was indeed a single turbo
> V-6, in the Buick Grand
National.
>
> -Cody
>
> -----Original
Message-----
> From:
owner-team3s@team3s.com
[mailto:owner-team3s@team3s.com] On Behalf
> Of Roger Gerl
> Sent:
Friday, March 08, 2002 1:20 PM
> To:
Team3S@stealth-3000gt.st>
Subject: Re: Team3S: NA to Single Turbo Conversion
>
> >There's a
kit at 5psi that takes the stock 146fwhp to 259fwhp.
>
> There is no
prove for this ! It says "estimated horsepower" and the
> chart
> is
an excel graph. Doing the math shows that a 50-60hp is more a good
>
estimate on 5 psi. Also I doubt that it is working because the exhaust
>
parts are missing as well as any notes about the cooling of the turbo
>
(oil,
> water) ! The exhaust part is very important as for a single
turbo setup
>
> this is a lot of work and the result is a very, very
long exhaust
> manifold
> design, far away from good. It makes zero
sense to make a single turbo
> on a
> V engine.
>
>
Roger
> 93'3000GT TT
>
www.rtec.ch*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 8 Mar 2002 15:48:00
-0800
From: "Gross, Erik" <
erik.gross@intel.com>
Subject:
Team3S: Brakes... bigger than Big Reds
So as far as the options we
have to go with larger brakes than the "Big
Red/Stock Cryo Rotors"
option...
Do these require 18" wheels? Or will the '94 VR-4 (and
95/96 VR-4 Spyder)
17" wheels work with any of this stuff? "This stuff"
would be AP 6-pot
calipers, Stillen's Big Brake Kit, Supra rotors, other
larger rotors, etc.
AP Racing has the a kit listed for our cars:
http://www.apracing.com/roadcar/brakekit/dataselect.aspwith
a 356mmx32mm (14"x1.26") rotor and their CP5555 6-pot caliper.
Wow,
that'd be cool. I'm guessing there's no way that'd fit with stock
17"
(2G) wheels... somebody tell me I'm wrong... please! :-)
-
--Erik
'95 VR-4 with '94 VR-4 track wheels and in need of better
brakes
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 8 Mar 2002 16:16:05
-0800 (PST)
From: Geoff Mohler <
gemohler@www.speedtoys.com>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Brakes... bigger than Big Reds
You really dont wanna go
the 18" wheel route.
You'll be paying 2-3x as much for race tires..than
with 17s...plus a 2nd
set of reawlly strong 18" race wheels will kill you as
well.
On Fri, 8 Mar 2002, Gross, Erik wrote:
> So as far as the
options we have to go with larger brakes than the "Big
> Red/Stock Cryo
Rotors" option...
>
> Do these require 18" wheels? Or will
the '94 VR-4 (and 95/96 VR-4 Spyder)
> 17" wheels work with any of this
stuff? "This stuff" would be AP 6-pot
> calipers, Stillen's Big
Brake Kit, Supra rotors, other larger rotors, etc.
>
> AP Racing
has the a kit listed for our cars:
>
http://www.apracing.com/roadcar/brakekit/dataselect.asp>
> with a 356mmx32mm (14"x1.26") rotor and their CP5555 6-pot
caliper.
>
> Wow, that'd be cool. I'm guessing there's no way
that'd fit with stock 17"
> (2G) wheels... somebody tell me I'm
wrong... please! :-)
>
> --Erik
> '95 VR-4 with '94 VR-4
track wheels and in need of better brakes
- ---
Geoff
Mohler
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 8 Mar 2002 18:40:20
-0600
From: "cody" <
overclck@satx.rr.com>
Subject:
Team3S: Clutch Question
I need a new clutch. The current clutch
lasted about 40-45K miles,
which isn't bad considering I'm pretty hard on it
(I think).
Regardless, gonna get an ACT 2600 w/ 4 puck disc, or maybe
a
centerforce. Gonna look into pricing and such tomorrow.
What I need to know is, how many times can the flywheel be
machined? I
know the specs are picky about the dual height flywheel,
and I know mine
has been replaced once, maybe twice. Will I need a new
one? If so,
anyone know what the factory flywheel costs? If it
costs a lot, I will
prolly get the fidanza, but money is unfortunately a
factor here.
Also, quick survey - what have people paid for labor
only on a clutch
swap? This is for a FWD 3K.
Thanks
-
-Cody
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 8 Mar 2002 19:57:46
-0500
From: "Zobel, Kurt" <
KURT.ZOBEL@ca.com>
Subject: RE:
Team3S: Top 20 Times
another non-denominational source..
http://www.dragtimes.com/index2.htmlKurt
-
-----Original Message-----
From: Jannusch, Matt
[mailto:mjannusch@marketwatch.com]
Sent: Monday, March 04, 2002 10:00
AM
To: 'Tom Terflinger';
Team3S@stealth-3000gt.stSubject:
RE: Team3S: Top 20
> I know there is a lot of talk about the top 2 or
3 fastest
> stealths and 3kgts but is there a list anywhere
(maybe
> Dave B. or Jeff L's websites) which contains the top 10
or
> 20 cars and owners times?
There are a few out there...
This one seems to be updated the most. There
are undoubtedly fast cars
that aren't on the list, but if people don't
submit their times...
http://www.mn3s.org/fastest3s.htmlI
think 3si.org has a list somewhere, but their site is being veeeery slow
for
me today.
- -Matt
'95 3000GT Spyder VR4
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 8 Mar 2002 20:24:56
-0500
From: "Darren Schilberg" <
dschilberg@pobox.com>
Subject: RE:
Team3S: Front Strut Bar
Sam,
As Jim mentioned it is a
solid piece and it was Engineered knowing
that bolts, welds, etc. are not as
good as a solid piece. Actually it
is welded where the part that goes
around the shock tower connects to
the bar between them but this is the next
best thing to a solid piece
and beats a bolted connection any day of the week
and twice on Sunday.
It would be ridiculous to make it out of a solid piece
because of the
amount of machining involved.
Some Chris has
seen others that are a 90-degree angle, some are a
45-degree angle, but he
made sure to make his strong. You can take this
bar off the car, place
it on the ground, stand on it (jump up and down
on it), and it does not move
or will barely move. Do that with these
smaller round bars and see what
happens. I know it is meant for
side-to-side and not having someone
bounce up and down but we don't have
an Instron machine in the basement here
to test them so that's the best
we can do. I would love to test it
against some others and see what the
real numbers are. I'll bet they
beat any bar available right now. The
rear bar is the same way
(Engineered nicely, solid, and offers more
support than any bar available for
our cars).
I just know how important it is for a car's alignment
to maintain
consistent when on the track or street course, etc. (not so much
for
going in a straight line but when turning but I'm not about to
get
yelled at again for implying something ludicrous like a strut bar
won't
help someone on the dragstrip ... so I won't get into it). Now if
you
are going to spend $100 and get the car aligned correctly, big
negative
camber in the rear, precise toe-in, etc. then why let the alignment
go
from -2.5 degrees camber in the rear to -1.25 degree camber when
you
want it to stay at -2.5 degrees camber? That's what the strut bar
is
supposed to maintain (correct me if I am wrong). It is supposed to
keep
the shock towers (and the shocks and then the wheels) at about the
same
as when it is sitting still and level. The strut tower bars are
just
one more part of the complex equation to deal with when setting up a
car
for the track or for squeezing out some more for the spirited
driving
many of us do on backroads.
I don't know why some
have a hinge connection here (pivot point) but
you don't want one side to
rise as compared to the other as this changes
your alignment. I think
someone measured the amount of stock
side-to-side measurement and was
surprised it was so small. I know it
was not a real scientific test but
there was movement side-to-side of
the tops of the shock towers. I
don't know how to accurately compare
one bar to another but if you want a
cheaper one then more power to you.
I only ask that you study the way others
are made and apply some general
Engineering principles to the picture and
soon you will make up your own
mind.
- --Flash!
1995 VR-4
-
-----Original Message-----
From: Sam Shelat
Sent: Friday, March 08, 2002
12:40
One question I have is this. Of every strut bar for
every car I have
seen,
about 1/2 dozen different types, the bars have a
link right after the
strut
circle attached to the bar going across the
motor. It seems like these
bars
could have been designed cheaper w/o
the "hinged" connection here. I
suppose this is done to let both sides
of the car to rise and fall
separately while maintaining the orientation of
the strut towers
horizontally. Why would it be better to just bolt the
two towers
together
for a street/strip car? If this is indeed
better, then why don't the
big
name comapnies make them this
way?
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 08 Mar 2002 20:24:25
-0500
From: "Jerry B." <
scorpman@optonline.net>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Top 20 Times
Ok here is my Question,,
How do I get on this list?? i would have the 8th or 9th place on it. My
93
Stealth RT/TT runs 11.5 sec at 15 pounds and race fuel. Turbo's are
capable
of 25 pounds but the yare only run at 1.1 bar (15psi)..
But I feel left
out of this little race,, Who might I need to contact in
order to find out
what is needed as proof for this vehicle and my name on
the
list?
Thanks Alot.
Jerry B. 93 Stealth RT/
- ----- Original Message -----
From: "Zobel, Kurt" <
KURT.ZOBEL@ca.com>
To: "Jannusch,
Matt" <
mjannusch@marketwatch.com>; "'Tom
Terflinger'"
<
terflit@hotmail.com>; <
Team3S@stealth-3000gt.st>
Sent:
Friday, March 08, 2002 7:57 PM
Subject: RE: Team3S: Top 20 Times
>
another non-denominational source..
>
http://www.dragtimes.com/index2.html>
>
Kurt
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 8 Mar 2002 20:29:43
-0500
From: "Zobel, Kurt" <
KURT.ZOBEL@ca.com>
Subject: RE:
Team3S: Brake'er, Brake'er, Gtech Competition
OK Guys,
Let's see some
Gtech braking info. Then we can bitch about those too.
Let's try to
get some numbers for different brake setups, and see what
works.
Include
tire and suspension mods, as they will factor in too.
Kurt
-
-----Original Message-----
From: Jon Bohlke
[mailto:bohlke_mobile@yahoo.com]
Sent: Monday, March 04, 2002 9:28 AM
To:
Team3S@stealth-3000gt.stSubject:
Re: Team3S: Gtech Competition
My friend and I have wondered about the
accuracy and precision of the
Gtech pro. Since there has been a bit of
dicussion about it here I
thought I would share the results of his
test. He took the Gtech with
him to the dragstrip at Maple Grove.
He ran 4-5 times that day and said
that the G-Tech was accurate on the ET but
was optimistic on the speed.
I think he said that the Gtech was within .1s
of the ET reported on the
timeslip in each run. He drives a C5 but I
don't hold that against him
:) , though I am not sure that it makes a
difference what type of car
you use to test the Gtech.
Jon
98 Pearl
White VR4
http://3000gt.websnout.com***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 8 Mar 2002 18:41:05
-0700
From: "Thomas Jeys" <
tj@jeys.net>
Subject: Team3S: Speaking of
Brakes
I just changed my front rotors out for cross drilled and slotted
rotors.
I'm letting them "brake in" (lol) before I try and see if they were
worth
the money I spent, but they sure do look nice. When I changed
them out I
took the calipers apart and lost all my brake fluid so I had to
spend some
addtional time bleeding them out. All things considered that
was one of the
easier things I've done to my car.
***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 08 Mar 2002 22:29:51
-0500
From: Joe Kenwabikise <
jdk88888@www.speedtoys.com>
Subject:
Team3S: another injector question...
Hey all,
I recently saw an add
for a "10% over" injector set for Hondas, that a
stock ECU is supposed to be
able to handle. This got me thinking about
our ECUs and if they can
handle a slightly larger injector. This would
be very helpful for me,
as I'm on a tight budget, but need larger
injectors. 10% over for us
would be 396cc. Think the ECU could hadle a
380cc, 390cc, or even 400cc
without problems(well, besides running
rich)?
Joe
91 RT/TT
black
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 8 Mar 2002 20:12:25
-0800 (PST)
From: Geoff Mohler <
gemohler@www.speedtoys.com>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: Brake'er, Brake'er, Gtech Competition
Cool..how do you set it
up for that?
On Fri, 8 Mar 2002, Zobel, Kurt wrote:
> OK Guys,
> Let's see some Gtech braking info. Then we can bitch about those
too.
>
> Let's try to get some numbers for different brake setups,
and see what
> works.
> Include tire and suspension mods, as they
will factor in too.
>
> Kurt
>
> -----Original
Message-----
> From: Jon Bohlke [mailto:bohlke_mobile@yahoo.com]
>
Sent: Monday, March 04, 2002 9:28 AM
> To:
Team3S@stealth-3000gt.st>
Subject: Re: Team3S: Gtech Competition
>
> My friend and I have
wondered about the accuracy and precision of the
> Gtech pro. Since
there has been a bit of dicussion about it here I
> thought I would share
the results of his test. He took the Gtech with
> him to the
dragstrip at Maple Grove. He ran 4-5 times that day and said
> that
the G-Tech was accurate on the ET but was optimistic on the speed.
> I
think he said that the Gtech was within .1s of the ET reported on the
>
timeslip in each run. He drives a C5 but I don't hold that against
him
> :) , though I am not sure that it makes a difference what type of
car
> you use to test the Gtech.
>
> Jon
> 98 Pearl
White VR4
>
http://3000gt.websnout.com-
---
Geoff Mohler
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 8 Mar 2002 20:15:09
-0800
From: "dakken" <
dougusmagnus@attbi.com>
Subject:
Team3S: Underdrive pulleys
I found a disturbing article on the net about
underdrive pulleys. This was
a mod I was thinking about doing farther
down the road. I am seriously
reconsidering it now. Here is the
link to the article:
http://www.dinanbmw.com/html/danger_of_power_pulleys.htmIt
is for BMW's but it seems the principles should be the same with
our
cars. Has anyone had any of the problems
described?
Doug
92 Stealth RT TT
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 8 Mar 2002 20:24:05
-0800 (PST)
From: Geoff Mohler <
gemohler@www.speedtoys.com>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Underdrive pulleys
Those principles apply to -any- car with a
dampened pulley..which includes
well, I cant think of a car that
doesnt.
On Fri, 8 Mar 2002, dakken wrote:
> I found a
disturbing article on the net about underdrive pulleys. This was
> a
mod I was thinking about doing farther down the road. I am
seriously
> reconsidering it now. Here is the link to the
article:
>
http://www.dinanbmw.com/html/danger_of_power_pulleys.htm>
> It is for BMW's but it seems the principles should be the same with
our
> cars. Has anyone had any of the problems described?
>
> Doug
> 92 Stealth RT TT
- ---
Geoff
Mohler
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 8 Mar 2002 23:24:22
-0500
From: "Kevin Schappell" <
kevin@schappell.com>
Subject: RE:
Team3S: Underdrive pulleys
I have a similar view and have had a web page
about it for quite some time
now. While not as technical as the Dinan
site, it does relate to the 3S
car.
http://www.pacarsearch.com/stealth/udp.htmKevin
It
is for BMW's but it seems the principles should be the same with
our
cars. Has anyone had any of the problems
described?
Doug
92 Stealth RT TT
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Sat, 9 Mar 2002 01:27:09
EST
From:
DonBrando36@aol.comSubject: Team3S:
running rich
i had my stock spark plugs and wires
taken out the other day and i
replaced them with denso iranium plugs and msd
8.5mm wires. My machanic told
me that the venom 400 control
module i am useing is making my engine run too
rich. Is that a big
problem? what could i do to lean it out alittle if i
have to? im
useing 93 octane plus octane boost.
brandon
93 3000GT
N/A
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 8 Mar 2002 23:30:46
-0800 (PST)
From: Casey Spivey <
spiv99@yahoo.com>
Subject: Team3S:
turbos going bad?
I have a '91 VR-4 with 147K miles on it. All
maintenance and work has
been done by me so I know it is current. I have a
K&N, full exhaust,
and a manual boost controller set to 15lbs. In the
past two weeks it
has started acting strange. It won't reach boost in 1st,
10lbs max in
second, and 15 in third. When the turbos are under boost I
have
started smelling oil. There was a little trace of it last
summer
when I had the IC pipes out. Also there is sometimes a loud
sound,
like air escaping from somewhere, but only under boost. It seems
to
be coming from close to the firewall, maybe the rear turbo.
Any
thoughts on what is wrong? I was thinking maybe the seals in
the
turbos are about shot. Thanks, Casey
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Sat, 9 Mar 2002 03:13:46
-0800
From: "Bob Forrest" <
bf@bobforrest.com>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: Clutch Question
> I need a new clutch. The current
clutch lasted about 40-45K miles, which
isn't bad considering I'm pretty hard
on it (I think). Regardless, gonna get
an ACT 2600 w/ 4 puck disc, or maybe a
centerforce. Gonna look into pricing
and such tomorrow.
-
------------------------->
The 4-puck clutches are really overkill on a
non-turbo 3S. Not only is the
stock clutch pretty terrific, there are
lots of other choices that are
probably more appropriate, like Act,
Centerforce and RPS. The only reason
you would need a 2600# clutch
would be in the case of high-torque (think
400HP+ modified turbo 3S), where
the clutch won't grip if you dump it at
high RPM. Such a clutch is hell
if you ever drive in traffic - it's either
"on" or "off"; slipping the clutch
is no longer an option. For our FWD NA
cars, if you want a little more
in the direction of a racing clutch (but you
won't work up a sweat in
traffic), I suggest the RPS Carbon Claw. (I've
posted about it before -
check the Team3S archives). It is a more positive
grip than stock, but
is still slippable. I've got 20k on this one, and I
race with it (not
drag). If it ever goes, I'll get another Carbon Claw.
(Do not confuse
this with the troublesome RPS "Turbo Carbon" for the
high-HP
guys).
> What I need to know is, how many times can the
flywheel be machined? I
know the specs are picky about the dual height
flywheel, and I know mine has
been replaced once, maybe twice. Will I
need a new one? If so, anyone know
what the factory flywheel
costs? If it costs a lot, I will prolly get the
fidanza, but money is
unfortunately a factor here.
- ------------------------->
I was pretty
abusive to my first clutch, too, so when I it in to replace it,
I *assumed*
the flywheel would need machining. I was pleasantly surprised
that it
did not. But if you need it, you can probably do it at least
twice,
unless they were sloppy and shaved off more than necessary the first
time...
> Also, quick survey - what have people paid for labor only on
a clutch
swap? This is for a FWD 3K.
> Thanks
> -Cody
-
------------------------->
Big city prices - I paid $162 with tax, but
that's after my Team3S discount.
The TO bearing was
$10.
Best,
Forrest
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Sat, 9 Mar 2002 08:26:05
-0800 (PST)
From: menalteed <
menalteed@yahoo.com>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: turbos going bad?
A good idea would be to check the front
intercooler
for oil build up. When my rear turbo went bad someone
from
this thread told me about that and after checking
I found several quarts of
oil in the drivers side
intercooler, oil from a bad rear turbo and oil
that
could cause dammage, if you drive with it much longer.
New turbos are
quite coatly but many people rebuild
them around the Country and you can find
lots of these
places on the internet. Prices range from $175 for
used
turbos from the salvage yard, M&M, in California
to
an average of
$290 each for rebuilds. I bite the
bullet and up graded to 13G for a pair
around $1400.
The work to change them was a bit of a callenge,
mostly
because of very tight heat set bolts and nuts,
but with a cheater bar
and patience and lots of liquid
wrench, it wasn't to hard. In any case
someone told me
that to run with oil in the intercooler could
result
in Engine dammage, that person could explain it better
but I have
lost that e-mail for now, What type of BOV
do you have and has it been a
wothwhile up grade.
Peter 92 RT TT Pearl White, Factory Sunroof
Now
with a Turbo timer
K&N filter system
Platinum plugs and other goodies
,
soon maybe a BOV if I can figure out what they are,
and for sure a oil
catch Can
*** Info:
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***
------------------------------
End of Team3S: 3000GT &
Stealth V1
#776
***************************************
