Team3S: 3000GT & Stealth Friday, March 8
2002 Volume 01 : Number
775
----------------------------------------------------------------------
Date:
Thu, 7 Mar 2002 05:59:18 -0800
From: "Bob Forrest" <
bf@bobforrest.com>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: Mitsubishi to recall transmission?
> I wouldn't start spamming
anyone before reading the whole thread and/or
contacting Bob Fontana
first. (Note there are two threads; one for
transmissions and one for
transfer cases) Bob ~may~ be the one who got the
ball rolling on
this. He definitely has made some headway on opening up
the
communication channels.
> Transmission thread:
>
http://www.3si.org/vbb/showthread.php?s=&threadid=57924-
------------------------->
"The ball" has been rolled many times
before. The "communication channels"
have been firmly and finally
*closed* by Getrag, and they specifically told
us so around Christmas of
2000, when we were last in touch with them. Some
of you might want to
refer to our Team3S Search Page to follow some of the
numerous previous
efforts we've already made..., (including directly to
Getrag executives, and
rejected, unfortunately) over the past FOUR years.
This latest effort by Bob
Fontana in the above thread over at 3Si is to be
applauded, but we've already
"been to the top" with Getrag and had no luck.
Perhaps he will succeed where
the rest of us have not. The thread on Team3S
was "Getrag Dead End",
but to refresh the memory of some of the newer
members...
First, JackT
(XWING) was actively trying to get fabricated or remanufactured
parts for the
Getrags since around 1998, after he was unable to get anywhere
with Getrag
directly. Jack was the one who got us all involved - with
donations of
parts and even some cash from a number of us in an attempt to
reverse
engineer and make parts available in the USA. In March of '99 he
posted
his "TRANSAXLE / TRANSFER CASE / PARTS / REBUILD SOURCE SUMMARY", and
made
regular updates about his progress throughout the year. In March
of
2000, Jack posted as to his dealings with Metric Mechanic, and provided
a
list of sources for parts as of that time. Those included Kormex, MD
auto,
M&S, Tallahassee Mitsu, MagAuto, etc, etc...
Although JackT
and others (Ken Middaugh, DaveT, etc) were making individual
efforts to
source the parts, Team3S got involved 'as a group' in early 2000.
One of our
members, Laura Roehrig, had a *success* in not only getting a
replacement
part FROM Getrag (a synchronizer), but in putting me directly in
touch with
THE guy who could have helped us, Gunnar Herre, President ICO
Parts and Sales
in Germany. She wrote him a "letter of introduction" for
Team3S.
I wrote to him as Admin of Team3S, introduced us, and told him of
our
problem. In his not-too-polite reply, he told us (in a
nutshell):
1. Laura's case was an exception that would not be
repeated.
2. "GETRAG has only an extremely limited number of parts
still on hand".
3. "GETRAG could not remanufacture "your" transmissions
(no facilities, no
parts)".
4. "GETRAG will also not source parts
for transmissions".
5. "All transmissions (no matter if 5- or 6-speed)
which are available on
the worldwide market are to be remanufactured at CRS
(Component
Remanufacturing Specialists)
in Mahwah / USA".
Herre
"closed the door" even more tightly by copying his reply to me to his
other
GETRAG "big boss" counterparts in Japan and the US. Probably to
make
*sure* that they all had matching stories... Grrrrrr... I
tried writing
the guy again in mid-2001, but his reply wasn't even polite -
it was almost
a form letter. We wish Fontana success in his efforts,
but... "been there,
done that"... Good luck,
Bob.
Best,
Forrest
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 7 Mar 2002 09:20:25
-0500
From:
Jeff.A.Williamson@jci.comSubject:
Team3S: Re: Percentage in drivetrain loss
OK. Now that I've gone through
all the posts on this latest thread about
drivetrain loss, I'm still not sure
how to calculate my hp. I was with Jack
and the others at the AWD dyno in
Chicago. (And no, Jack's no Arnold
Schwarzenegger, but he runs a close
second!!!) Joe's bone stock '96 TT
measured 238hp at the wheels. So if you do
the math, and assuming he has
320hp at the crank, he had a 26% drivetrain
loss or 82hp. My car ran 360hp
at the wheels. So how much crank horsepower do
I have, 485 or 442? Or is
this really an impossible question without actually
using an engine dyno?
Jeff W
Belleville, MI
'92 VR4
>I
like Jack's example of turning the driveline by hand. Now I don't
know
>Jack personally, but lets assume that he is not Arnold
Schwarzenegger. Do
>you think that the amount of effort to turn the
driveline would increase
>just because some strong man was turning the
driveline? I don't think
>so...the required energy would remain the
same, but the percent of the
>potential energy would drop. i.e, Jack
may work up a sweat, but Arnold
may
>not even increase his heart
rate.
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 07 Mar 2002 15:40:36
+0100
From: Roger Gerl <
roger.gerl@bluewin.ch>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Re: Percentage in drivetrain loss
The dyno operator must be
able to plot the data !
If not :
- - Take the rpm where your peak hp
was
- - read the drivetrain loss at this rpm oout f as many as possible loss
measures of 3s dynos
- - take the mean of this hp values and add it to
your hp figure.
Roger
93'3000GT TT
www.rtec.chAt 09:20 07.03.2002 -0500,
Jeff.A.Williamson@jci.com
wrote:
>OK. Now that I've gone through all the posts on this latest thread
about
>drivetrain loss, I'm still not sure how to calculate my hp. I was
with Jack
>and the others at the AWD dyno in Chicago. (And no, Jack's no
Arnold
>Schwarzenegger, but he runs a close second!!!) Joe's bone stock
'96 TT
>measured 238hp at the wheels. So if you do the math, and assuming
he has
>320hp at the crank, he had a 26% drivetrain loss or 82hp. My car
ran 360hp
>at the wheels. So how much crank horsepower do I have, 485 or
442? Or is
>this really an impossible question without actually using an
engine dyno?
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 07 Mar 2002 07:49:54
-0700
From: Wayne <
whietala@prodigy.net>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: Re: Percentage in drivetrain loss
It's like talking to a brick
wall sometimes.
The only way to get drivetrain losses without estimating is
to run your car
on a chassis dyno, then put the engine on an engine dyno. If
you don't want
to go to this trouble, MULTIPLY YOUR CHASSIS DYNO PEAK HP BY
125% AND BE
DONE WITH IT FOR GOD SAKES............
***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 7 Mar 2002 09:53:19
-0500
From:
pvg1@daimlerchrysler.comSubject:
Re: Team3S: Re: Percentage in drivetrain loss
Good question, Jeff. Your
actual crank horsepower is in between 485 and
442!
<just trying to make
you mad ;-) >
What was the gear and the car speed at which that wheel
horsepower was
recorded on your car and on Joe's car?
Third?
Philip
-
-------------------------------------------------
Jeff.A.Williamson@jci.com
wrote:
OK. Now that I've gone through all the posts on this latest thread
about
drivetrain loss, I'm still not sure how to calculate my hp. I was with
Jack
and the others at the AWD dyno in Chicago. (And no, Jack's no
Arnold
Schwarzenegger, but he runs a close second!!!) Joe's bone stock '96
TT
measured 238hp at the wheels. So if you do the math, and assuming he
has
320hp at the crank, he had a 26% drivetrain loss or 82hp. My car ran
360hp
at the wheels. So how much crank horsepower do I have, 485 or 442? Or
is
this really an impossible question without actually using an engine
dyno?
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 7 Mar 2002 10:10:07
-0500
From: "Calum McCusker" <
Calum@Canalytical.com>
Subject:
Team3S: T-Top or softtop ?
Hi guys & girls,
I would adore my 92 RT
even more if it had a softtop ( I can't afford a
spyder, so I was wondering
about just hacking the roof off and getting
someone to install one
.
Does anyone know anyone who does softtop conversions or Targa
top
conversions, or has had one on their Stealth ?
I like the idea but
my fiancee doesn't want me to screw up the profile
(hence the T-top idea
)
thanks
pretty blue RT (almost at 200, 000km and only one engine
rebuild - hah!)
Calum
Calum@Canalytical.comwww.Canalytical.coman ISO 17025
Company
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 7 Mar 2002 10:19:12
-0500
From: "Jeff VanOrsdal" <
jeffv@1nce.com>
Subject: RE: Team3S:
T-Top or softtop ?
Changing your car over to a T-top or soft top will
cost more than a nice
Spyder would.
Jeff VanOrsdal
1991 Stealth ESX
Twin Turbo
jeffv@1nce.com-
-----Original Message-----
From:
owner-team3s@team3s.com
[mailto:owner-team3s@team3s.com]On Behalf
Of Calum McCusker
Sent:
Thursday, March 07, 2002 10:10 AM
To:
team3S@stealth-3000gt.stSubject:
Team3S: T-Top or softtop ?
Hi guys & girls,
I would adore my 92 RT
even more if it had a softtop ( I can't afford a
spyder, so I was wondering
about just hacking the roof off and getting
someone to install one
.
Does anyone know anyone who does softtop conversions or Targa
top
conversions, or has had one on their Stealth ?
I like the idea but
my fiancee doesn't want me to screw up the profile
(hence the T-top idea
)
thanks
pretty blue RT (almost at 200, 000km and only one engine
rebuild - hah!)
Calum
Calum@Canalytical.comwww.Canalytical.coman ISO 17025
Company
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 7 Mar 2002 07:19:55
-0800
From: "fastmax" <
fastmax@cox.net>
Subject: Re: Team3S:
Re: Percentage in drivetrain loss
I don't know If you posted this before
or not but what mods were you running
to pull 360 at the wheels --- also what
type of dyno ??? Inertial or
brake
Jim
Berry
===============================================
- ----- Original
Message -----
From: <
Jeff.A.Williamson@jci.com>
>My
car ran 360hp
> at the wheels. So how much crank horsepower do I have, 485
or 442? Or is
> this really an impossible question without actually using
an engine dyno?
>
> Jeff W
> Belleville, MI
> '92
VR4
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 7 Mar 2002 09:26:44
-0600
From: "Christopher Deutsch" <
christopher0@attbi.com>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: T-Top or softtop ?
It's been done. I've seen reference
to the shop that did it on
www.3si.orgMight
want to try a search there.
Also there was one on eBay a year or two
ago.
Like Jeff said though. It may end up costing more then a
Spyder, but it's
probably worth checking out anyway if that's really what
you're set on.
Christopher
> -----Original Message-----
>
From:
owner-team3s@team3s.com
[mailto:owner-team3s@team3s.com]On Behalf
> Of Calum McCusker
>
Sent: Thursday, March 07, 2002 9:10 AM
> To:
team3S@stealth-3000gt.st>
Subject: Team3S: T-Top or softtop ?
>
> Hi guys & girls,
>
I would adore my 92 RT even more if it had a softtop ( I can't afford a
>
spyder, so I was wondering about just hacking the roof off and getting
>
someone to install one .
>
> Does anyone know anyone who does
softtop conversions or Targa top
> conversions, or has had one on their
Stealth ?
>
> I like the idea but my fiancee doesn't want me to
screw up the profile
> (hence the T-top idea )
>
>
thanks
> pretty blue RT (almost at 200, 000km and only one engine rebuild
- hah!)
> Calum
>
>
Calum@Canalytical.com>
www.Canalytical.com> an ISO 17025
Company
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 7 Mar 2002 07:36:15
-0800
From: "dakken" <
dougusmagnus@attbi.com>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: advantages of running 275/40/17?
You can figure out what your
overall wheel diameter is by multiplying the
width (275) by the sidewall
ratio (40%) and then converting it to inches
(divide by 25.4), multiply the
result by 2 and then add the rim diameter
(17). This would give
you a wheel diameter of 25.66 inches. Stock is
25.68 inches. No
significant change in diameter so your speedometer would
work fine. 275
compared to 245 is 4/5" wider. It should fit. Just to be
sure you
can call a tire store. Where to mount them is a good question.
If
you have AWD then it doesn't matter as much for traction. If you
break
traction all the time then put them on front. They will affect
your
cornering. In back it will reduce oversteer. On front they
will reduce
understeer since wider tires have a smaller slip angle.
Your front wheels
have a higher toe-in than your rear wheels so more tread on
front would add
to your roll resistance. Choose a spot where you think
it would do best for
your car or flip a coin.
Doug
92 Stealth RT
TT
> instead of the normal 245/45/17 (1st gen tt)? Would these
fit fine for
both
> front and rear? Would it be ok if I got 2 of
the 275/40/17 and used 2
> 245/45/17? If so, would it be better to
have the 275/40 on the front or
> back?
>
> thanks,
>
Bill
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 7 Mar 2002 10:40:05
-0500
From: "Jeff VanOrsdal" <
jeffv@1nce.com>
Subject: RE: Team3S:
T-Top or softtop ?
Custom Coach Builders in FL and Straman Convertibles
in CA have both done
cloth drop tops to the tune of $14,000. I've seen
one or two of those car
go for sale for well under 20k, but good luck finding
one for yourself.
T-top would be cheaper, but probably still in the region of
7k if done
correctly. A few guys from 3SI ask this question every
couple months.
People want t-tops, targa tops and drop tops. Inevitably
they realize that
the costs easily exceed 5k and give up. Lots of
people talk about it, but
no one has actually gone through with it, except
for the afore mentioned
convertibles which were built many years ago. (All
1st gen Stealths and
3000GTs)
Jeff VanOrsdal
1991 Stealth ESX Twin
Turbo
jeffv@1nce.com-
-----Original Message-----
From:
owner-team3s@team3s.com
[mailto:owner-team3s@team3s.com]On Behalf
Of Christopher Deutsch
Sent:
Thursday, March 07, 2002 10:27 AM
To:
team3S@stealth-3000gt.stSubject:
RE: Team3S: T-Top or softtop ?
It's been done. I've seen reference
to the shop that did it on
www.3si.orgMight
want to try a search there.
Also there was one on eBay a year or two
ago.
Like Jeff said though. It may end up costing more then a
Spyder, but it's
probably worth checking out anyway if that's really what
you're set on.
Christopher
> -----Original Message-----
>
From:
owner-team3s@team3s.com
[mailto:owner-team3s@team3s.com]On Behalf
> Of Calum McCusker
>
Sent: Thursday, March 07, 2002 9:10 AM
> To:
team3S@stealth-3000gt.st>
Subject: Team3S: T-Top or softtop ?
>
> Hi guys & girls,
>
I would adore my 92 RT even more if it had a softtop ( I can't afford a
>
spyder, so I was wondering about just hacking the roof off and getting
>
someone to install one .
>
> Does anyone know anyone who does
softtop conversions or Targa top
> conversions, or has had one on their
Stealth ?
>
> I like the idea but my fiancee doesn't want me to
screw up the profile
> (hence the T-top idea )
>
>
thanks
> pretty blue RT (almost at 200, 000km and only one engine rebuild
- hah!)
> Calum
>
>
Calum@Canalytical.com>
www.Canalytical.com> an ISO 17025
Company
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 7 Mar 2002 10:39:06
-0500
From:
Jeff.A.Williamson@jci.comSubject:
Team3S: Re: Percentage in drivetrain loss
I was running 357 turbos, ARC2
fuel controller, boost controller, downpipe,
fuel pump, no cats, etc. That
run was at 20psi. But the interesting thing
was that at 18psi, I measured 359
at the wheels.....only 1hp less than at
20psi! And at 20psi, I recorded
high knock sums and significant timing
retard, even with a richer fuel
mixture. So I'm guessing I found the limits
of 100 octane fuel. My car, for
some reason, also measured 15 to 20 less
whp than others with similar mods,
so it looks like I've got a little
tuning to do yet.
Don't know the
specific type of dynomometer that this was, just know they
called it a
"Mustang" AWD Dyno.
Jeff W.
fastmax@cox.net on 03/07/2002 10:19:55
AM
To:
team3s@stealth-3000gt.st,
Jeff.A.Williamson@jci.comcc:
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Re: Percentage in drivetrain loss
I don't know If you posted
this before or not but what mods were you
running
to pull 360 at the
wheels --- also what type of dyno ??? Inertial or
brake
Jim
Berry
===============================================
- ----- Original
Message -----
From: <
Jeff.A.Williamson@jci.com>
>My
car ran 360hp
> at the wheels. So how much crank horsepower do I have, 485
or 442? Or is
> this really an impossible question without actually using
an engine dyno?
>
> Jeff W
> Belleville, MI
> '92
VR4
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 07 Mar 2002 16:41:58
+0100
From: Roger Gerl <
roger.gerl@bluewin.ch>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: T-Top or softtop ?
At 09:26 07.03.2002 -0600, Christopher
Deutsch wrote:
>It's been done. I've seen reference to the shop that
did it on
www.3si.org>Might want to try
a search there.
It was a Stealth ES that was done by a company in
California. Cost was
around 10k as the bottom had to be strengthened
too.
Regarding T-top I know how much the stock sunroof squeeks when going
fast
into turns or the street is not that well. I wish Iit would not be
there !
Therefore a T-top is not a good idea.
Roger
93'3000GT
TT
www.rtec.ch*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 7 Mar 2002 10:45:40
-0500
From:
pvg1@daimlerchrysler.comSubject:
Re: Team3S: Re: Percentage in drivetrain loss
>For the racers it is
omportant to know the
>power on the road but when you have a power hole in
the curve wihtout the
>measured loss of the drivetrain (and tires of
course) it is not possible
to
>solve it fully. When you do it is
possible that you have a strange engine
hp
>curve at the end that is
not good.
Yes, if you do not know your engine torque or power curve, you
won't know
the optimal shift points. This is why we are still talking about
torque and
horsepower at the crank.
The tire loss is huge at high
speeds and it also increases exponentially.
If not taken into account, it
will make the torque/horsepower curves peak
at lower speeds. Then someone
using these curves will be shifting too
early.
The horsepower measured
at the wheels will be different in different gears
too. Lower at in high
gears and higher in low gears. But the crank
horsepower is always the same
regardless of the gear or car speed.
Philip
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 7 Mar 2002 08:39:10
-0800 (PST)
From: Geoff Mohler <
gemohler@www.speedtoys.com>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Re: Percentage in drivetrain loss
Jeff:
You havwe
enough to go from point A to point B.
If you do drag streip runs, you'll
be able to figure it out within a few
percent.
THATS as exact as you
will ever get.
On Thu, 7 Mar 2002
Jeff.A.Williamson@jci.com
wrote:
> OK. Now that I've gone through all the posts on this latest
thread about
> drivetrain loss, I'm still not sure how to calculate my hp.
I was with Jack
> and the others at the AWD dyno in Chicago. (And no,
Jack's no Arnold
> Schwarzenegger, but he runs a close second!!!) Joe's
bone stock '96 TT
> measured 238hp at the wheels. So if you do the math,
and assuming he has
> 320hp at the crank, he had a 26% drivetrain loss or
82hp. My car ran 360hp
> at the wheels. So how much crank horsepower do I
have, 485 or 442? Or is
> this really an impossible question without
actually using an engine dyno?
>
> Jeff W
> Belleville,
MI
> '92 VR4
>
> >I like Jack's example of turning the
driveline by hand. Now I don't know
> >Jack personally, but lets
assume that he is not Arnold Schwarzenegger. Do
> >you think that
the amount of effort to turn the driveline would increase
> >just
because some strong man was turning the driveline? I don't think
>
>so...the required energy would remain the same, but the percent of
the
> >potential energy would drop. i.e, Jack may work up a
sweat, but Arnold
> may
> >not even increase his heart
rate.
- ---
Geoff Mohler
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 7 Mar 2002 08:40:45
-0800 (PST)
From: Geoff Mohler <
gemohler@www.speedtoys.com>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Re: Percentage in drivetrain loss
No..you found the limits of
IC efficiency on a dyno.
I can run 20psi on 95octane fuel in ym celica,
and I cant _find_ the
limits of my turbo on 100octane.
On Thu, 7 Mar
2002
Jeff.A.Williamson@jci.com
wrote:
> I was running 357 turbos, ARC2 fuel controller, boost
controller, downpipe,
> fuel pump, no cats, etc. That run was at 20psi.
But the interesting thing
> was that at 18psi, I measured 359 at the
wheels.....only 1hp less than at
> 20psi! And at 20psi, I recorded
high knock sums and significant timing
> retard, even with a richer fuel
mixture. So I'm guessing I found the limits
> of 100 octane fuel. My car,
for some reason, also measured 15 to 20 less
> whp than others with
similar mods, so it looks like I've got a little
> tuning to do
yet.
>
> Don't know the specific type of dynomometer that this was,
just know they
> called it a "Mustang" AWD Dyno.
>
> Jeff
W.
>
>
fastmax@cox.net on
03/07/2002 10:19:55 AM
>
> To:
team3s@stealth-3000gt.st,
Jeff.A.Williamson@jci.com>
cc:
>
> Subject: Re: Team3S: Re: Percentage in drivetrain
loss
>
> I don't know If you posted this before or not but what
mods were you
> running
> to pull 360 at the wheels --- also what
type of dyno ??? Inertial or brake
>
> Jim Berry
>
===============================================
> ----- Original Message
-----
> From: <
Jeff.A.Williamson@jci.com>
>
> >My car ran 360hp
> > at the wheels. So how much crank
horsepower do I have, 485 or 442? Or is
> > this really an impossible
question without actually using an engine dyno?
> >
> > Jeff
W
> > Belleville, MI
> > '92 VR4
- ---
Geoff
Mohler
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 07 Mar 2002 17:18:19
From: "Tom Bromm" <
tbromm68@hotmail.com>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: installing subwoofers
Mike & Cathy,
I bought an 8"
amplified Bazooka subwoofer tube back in '96. They're
totally portable
and it fit PERFECTLY in the space right behind the back
seats. Since
it has it's own amplifier all I had to do was connect it to
the existing
rear speaker wires.
I checked out Crutchfield and this looks like the
updated version of what I
have:
http://www.crutchfield.com/cgi-bin/S-brxjZ6qvf7K/ProdView.asp?a=0&s=0&g=51000&id=essential_info&i=204EL8AHPMake
sure it's the 8" size as the 10" diameter won't fit in that
space.
Tom
>From: "Mike & Cathy" <
micajoco@theofficenet.com>
>To:
"team3s stealth-3000gt" <
team3s@stealth-3000gt.st>
>Subject:
Team3S: installing subwoofers
>Date: Tue, 5 Mar 2002 21:51:39
-0700
>
>has anyone installed an amp and subwoofers into their
stealth or 3000gt?
>was there any problem hooking up to stock
system?
>MikeS 92r/t tt
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 7 Mar 2002 09:39:31
-0800 (PST)
From: "joe d." <
ja_dorsey@yahoo.com>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: installing subwoofers
ditto for the 8" amped kenwood
subwoofer tube...model # KSC-WA801...doesn't fit "perfect" but close
enough...you can go to kenwood's webiste:
http://www.kenwoodusa.com/excelon/excelonSubwoof.jsp
and search for the model # in their archives...good luck. they'll give you
an instruction manaul for the product in adobe file format.
good luck,
jd
Tom Bromm <
tbromm68@hotmail.com> wrote: Mike
& Cathy,
I bought an 8" amplified Bazooka subwoofer tube back in '96.
They're
totally portable and it fit PERFECTLY in the space right behind the
back
seats. Since it has it's own amplifier all I had to do was connect it
to
the existing rear speaker wires.
I checked out Crutchfield and
this looks like the updated version of what I
have:
http://www.crutchfield.com/cgi-bin/S-brxjZ6qvf7K/ProdView.asp?a=0&s=0&g=51000&id=essential_info&i=204EL8AHPMake
sure it's the 8" size as the 10" diameter won't fit in that
space.
Tom
>From: "Mike & Cathy"
>To: "team3s
stealth-3000gt"
>Subject: Team3S: installing subwoofers
>Date: Tue,
5 Mar 2002 21:51:39 -0700
>
>has anyone installed an amp and
subwoofers into their stealth or 3000gt?
>was there any problem hooking up
to stock system?
>MikeS 92r/t tt
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 07 Mar 2002 10:06:36
-0800
From: Dean Benz <
dbenz@usa.net>
Subject: Re: Team3S:
advantages of running 275/40/17?
If you have AWD, I would reccomend only
using matched sets of tires. Premature
wear on the "transfer case" could
result if you don't.
Not having a matched set also makes it difficult to
rotate tires. You have to
pull them off the rims and move them to the other
side.
If you have 2wd, and want different sizes, my suggestion would be
put the
wider ones in front where the power and steering are.
That
said, you should also check that the tires you are looking into
are
recommended for your wheel width.
Many manufacturers reccomend a
minimum of a 9" wheel for 275/45-17s. Most if
not all of the stock 17" wheels
and most of the aftermarket ones are less than
9" wide.
Last but not
least, depending on your suspension configuration and wheels,
275s may be to
close to, or actually rub either on the suspension, or fenders
when just
sitting on the tires, or cornering/braking.
Find a shop that will test
fit a used tire before you sink money into new ones
and find they won't
work.
"dakken" <
dougusmagnus@attbi.com>
wrote:
>
> You can figure out what your overall wheel diameter is
by multiplying the
> width (275) by the sidewall ratio (40%) and then
converting it to inches
> (divide by 25.4), multiply the result by 2 and
then add the rim diameter
> (17). This would give you a wheel
diameter of 25.66 inches. Stock is
> 25.68 inches. No
significant change in diameter so your speedometer would
> work
fine. 275 compared to 245 is 4/5" wider. It should fit. Just
to be
> sure you can call a tire store. Where to mount them is a
good question.
If
> you have AWD then it doesn't matter as much for
traction. If you break
> traction all the time then put them on
front. They will affect your
> cornering. In back it will
reduce oversteer. On front they will reduce
> understeer since wider
tires have a smaller slip angle. Your front wheels
> have a higher
toe-in than your rear wheels so more tread on front would add
> to your
roll resistance. Choose a spot where you think it would do
best
for
> your car or flip a coin.
>
>
>
Doug
> 92 Stealth RT TT
>
> > instead of the normal
245/45/17 (1st gen tt)? Would these fit fine for
> both
> >
front and rear? Would it be ok if I got 2 of the 275/40/17 and used
2
> > 245/45/17? If so, would it be better to have the 275/40 on
the front or
> > back?
> >
> > thanks,
> >
Bill
Dean Benz
dbenz@usa.net*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 7 Mar 2002 12:22:36
-0600
From: "cody" <
overclck@satx.rr.com>
Subject: FW:
Team3S: advantages of running 275/40/17?
If you have the TT, you must
have all 4 identical tires. If not, you
risk damage to the center
vicious coupling. 275/40-17 might rub quite a
bit with factory wheels
with 46 mm offset. I have 275-35-18 tires on 40
mm offset wheels, and
they rub, but only at extreme left/right turns.
The 275 width made
a large improvement on my SL.
- -Cody
- -----Original
Message-----
From:
owner-team3s@team3s.com
[mailto:owner-team3s@team3s.com] On Behalf
Of Bill vp
Sent: Thursday,
March 07, 2002 3:58 AM
To: team3/S
Subject: Team3S: advantages of running
275/40/17?
instead of the normal 245/45/17 (1st gen tt)? Would
these fit fine for
both
front and rear? Would it be ok if I got 2 of
the 275/40/17 and used 2
245/45/17? If so, would it be better to have
the 275/40 on the front or
back?
thanks,
Bill
***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 7 Mar 2002 13:21:01
-0500
From:
JCourcelle@NerveWire.comSubject:
RE: Team3S: installing subwoofers
I was able to install a competition
system in my 91 R/T, as I used to
compete in car audio before I took up
racing.
I had 2 12" Rockford Fosgade Punch DVC's in a Q logic sealed
enclosure in
the trunk space. I had to remove the sliding cover, and the top
of the
enclosure was less than 1/2" from the glass when closed, but it fit
just
fine. The amp was installed to the back of the enclosure, and the power
&
ground distribution blocks were mounted to a seperate amp board that
sat
snug to the rear seats, along with the capaciter.
Long story short,
you can do a lot better than a pre-fab tube if you want to
put the effort
into it.
Jeff
91 R/T
- -----Original Message-----
From: joe
d.
To: Tom Bromm;
micajoco@theofficenet.com;
team3s@stealth-3000gt.stSent:
3/7/2002 12:39 PM
Subject: Re: Team3S: installing subwoofers
ditto for
the 8" amped kenwood subwoofer tube...model #
KSC-WA801...doesn't fit
"perfect" but close enough...you can go to
kenwood's webiste:
http://www.kenwoodusa.com/excelon/excelonSubwoof.jsp<
http://www.kenwoodusa.com/excelon/excelonSubwoof.jsp>
and search for
the model # in their archives...good luck. they'll give
you an
instruction manaul for the product in adobe file format.
good luck, jd
Tom Bromm <
tbromm68@hotmail.com> wrote:
Mike & Cathy,
I bought an 8" amplified Bazooka subwoofer tube
back in '96. They're
totally portable and it fit PERFECTLY in the space
right behind the back
seats. Since it has it's own amplifier all I had to
do was connect it to
the existing rear speaker wires.
I checked
out Crutchfield and this looks like the updated version of
what I
have:
http://www.crutchfield.com/cgi-bin/S-brxjZ6qvf7K/ProdView.asp?a=0&s=0&g=
51000&id=essential_info&i=204EL8AHP
Make
sure it's the 8" size as the 10" diameter won't fit in that
space.
Tom
>From: "Mike & Cathy"
>To: "team3s
stealth-3000gt"
>Subject: Team3S: installing subwoofers
>Date: Tue,
5 Mar 2002 21:51:39 -0700
>
>has anyone installed an amp and
subwoofers into their stealth or
3000gt?
>was there any problem hooking
up to stock system?
>MikeS 92r/t tt
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 7 Mar 2002 10:27:53
-0800 (PST)
From: Geoff Mohler <
gemohler@www.speedtoys.com>
Subject:
Re: FW: Team3S: advantages of running 275/40/17?
275s on stock width
wheels??
275s really want a 10" wheel to perform best, at the minimum, a
9" wheel.
On Thu, 7 Mar 2002, cody wrote:
> If you have the TT,
you must have all 4 identical tires. If not, you
> risk damage to
the center vicious coupling. 275/40-17 might rub quite a
> bit with
factory wheels with 46 mm offset. I have 275-35-18 tires on 40
> mm
offset wheels, and they rub, but only at extreme left/right turns.
>
> The 275 width made a large improvement on my SL.
>
> -Cody
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From:
owner-team3s@team3s.com
[mailto:owner-team3s@team3s.com] On Behalf
> Of Bill vp
> Sent:
Thursday, March 07, 2002 3:58 AM
> To: team3/S
> Subject: Team3S:
advantages of running 275/40/17?
>
> instead of the normal
245/45/17 (1st gen tt)? Would these fit fine for
> both
>
front and rear? Would it be ok if I got 2 of the 275/40/17 and used
2
> 245/45/17? If so, would it be better to have the 275/40 on the
front or
> back?
>
> thanks,
> Bill
-
---
Geoff Mohler
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 7 Mar 2002 13:39:14
-0500
From: "
amkuhn@earthlink.net"
<
amkuhn@earthlink.net>
Subject: RE:
Re: Team3S: installing subwoofers
Only thing about adding a subwoofer is
to ensure that you turn the gain way down on the amplifier on the
sub...especially if you tap into the rear speakers. Remember that the
signal going to the rear speakers is already amplified from the amp underneath
the passenger seat. If you don't turn down the gain on the amp for the sub
you will be putting too much power to the sub. Play around with it...you
might also need to adjust the lower range on the equalizer on the
head-unit. I installed a 10" sub on my (well, used to be my) 1995 3000GT
with Infinity Sound...added a lot of punch to it but I had to adjust the gain
and tune the equalizer...
My $.02
Adam
amkuhn@earthlink.net2001 Nissan
Pathfinder SE
Looking for a 1994 Dodge Stealth R/T TT Black w/ Dark Grey
Interior
Original Message:
- -----------------
From: Tom Bromm
tbromm68@hotmail.comDate: Thu, 07 Mar
2002 17:18:19
To:
micajoco@theofficenet.com,
team3s@stealth-3000gt.stSubject:
Re: Team3S: installing subwoofers
Mike & Cathy,
I bought an 8"
amplified Bazooka subwoofer tube back in '96. They're
totally portable
and it fit PERFECTLY in the space right behind the back
seats. Since
it has it's own amplifier all I had to do was connect it to
the existing
rear speaker wires.
I checked out Crutchfield and this looks like the
updated version of what I
have:
http://www.crutchfield.com/cgi-bin/S-brxjZ6qvf7K/ProdView.asp?a=0&s=0&g=51000&id=essential_info&i=204EL8AHPMake
sure it's the 8" size as the 10" diameter won't fit in that
space.
Tom
>From: "Mike & Cathy" <
micajoco@theofficenet.com>
>To:
"team3s stealth-3000gt" <
team3s@stealth-3000gt.st>
>Subject:
Team3S: installing subwoofers
>Date: Tue, 5 Mar 2002 21:51:39
-0700
>
>has anyone installed an amp and subwoofers into their
stealth or 3000gt?
>was there any problem hooking up to stock
system?
>MikeS 92r/t tt
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 7 Mar 2002 13:54:52
EST
From:
DonBrando36@aol.comSubject: Team3S:
team 3S:i want to change a N/A 3000GT to a big single
turbo
hello, my name is brandon and i own a 1993 N/A
3000GT. the mods i have
are, a venom 400 control module,K&N air
intake,borla exhaust with test pipe,
msd spark plug wires and denso iranium
spark plugs. I wanted to know what
parts i would need to put into the
engine to make it a turbo.
Cams,crank,pistons...what else and how Much
$?
thanks
brandon
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 7 Mar 2002 14:01:13
-0500
From: "Jeff VanOrsdal" <
jeffv@1nce.com>
Subject: RE: Team3S: team
3S:i want to change a N/A 3000GT to a big single turbo
Search on
3SI.org. It has been discussed at length and there's several
owners
there who have done turbo conversions on NA cars.
Jeff VanOrsdal
1991
Stealth ESX Twin Turbo
jeffv@1nce.com- -----Original
Message-----
From:
owner-team3s@team3s.com
[mailto:owner-team3s@team3s.com]On Behalf
Of
DonBrando36@aol.comSent: Thursday,
March 07, 2002 1:55 PM
To:
Team3S@stealth-3000gt.stSubject:
Team3S: team 3S:i want to change a N/A 3000GT to a big
single
turbo
hello, my name is brandon and i own a
1993 N/A 3000GT. the mods i have
are, a venom 400 control
module,K&N air intake,borla exhaust with test pipe,
msd spark plug wires
and denso iranium spark plugs. I wanted to know what
parts i would need
to put into the engine to make it a turbo.
Cams,crank,pistons...what else and
how Much $?
thanks
brandon
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 7 Mar 2002 14:44:47
EST
From:
DonBrando36@aol.comSubject: Team3S:
team 3S: dyno
i live on long island New york, wheres the closet place i
could dyno my car?
brandon
93 3000GT
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 7 Mar 2002 14:47:14
-0500
From: "Furman, Russell" <
RFurman2@MassMutual.com>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: team 3S: dyno
I would say probably AAM in Gaithersburg MD if
your are AWD..... about 6
hrs from CT
> -----Original
Message-----
> From:
DonBrando36@aol.com
[SMTP:DonBrando36@aol.com]
> Sent: Thursday, March 07, 2002 2:45
PM
> To:
Team3S@stealth-3000gt.st>
Subject: Team3S: team 3S: dyno
>
> i live on long island New york,
wheres the closet place i could dyno my
> car?
>
> brandon
> 93 3000GT
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 07 Mar 2002 15:37:57
-0500
From: Shannon <
shannon@oxfordlearning.com>
Subject:
Team3S: Cracked rear turbo
Hey gents,
I have been reading your
site for years now and unfortunately never had
enough money to do my mods and
fortunately, never had a problem with my
92 Stealth TT(other than a busted
oil cooler pump), so I never got to
try your suggestions out.
Sadly, I
have recently had problems with my baby, it was bogging out at
around 4,000
rpm's occasionally, however, not all the time but quite
often. I almost
lost a drag to a Firebird the other day and decided
enough is enough and took
her in.
Long story short but the dealer told me that my rear turbo is
cracked
and needs replacing. I don't' know what to think because the
car has
not been losing that much oil (ad a quart or between oil changes)but
it
would explain the poor performance I have been getting. I had
thought
it might have something to do with my idler motor because I had
it
cleaned recently but was told it could need replacing. (It still
turns
over too often before starting and occasionally loses it's RPM's at
idle
and stalls)
Anyway, my question is "what do you guys think
and if I do replace this
thing, is there any performance upgrades I should be
looking at, seeing
I'm replacing the rear turbo anyway? I don't know if
you can upgrade
one turbo and not the other. I would like to get some
bang for my buck,
seeing I have to spend it regardless. The dealer
also mentioned
rebuilding
the turbo, any feedback with regards to that
subject would be beneficial
as well.
Any advice or assistance
would be greatly appreciated. I love this car
and was just about to
decide if I should spend a few bucks on her or get
a newer one.
Now, it looks like at least, I have an easier decision
to
make!!
Thanks in advance,
Shannon Rowe
***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 7 Mar 2002 21:57:16
+0100
From: "Roger Gerl" <
roger.gerl@bluewin.ch>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Cracked rear turbo
Is it proven that the rear turbo is
cracked. Let them show you the damage !
Same to the idler motor ... why was
it cleaned ?
Sounds to my like "try and error" the dealer does
!!
Roger
93'3000GT TT
www.rtec.ch> Long story short but the
dealer told me that my rear turbo is cracked
> and needs replacing.
I don't' know what to think because the car has
> not been losing that
much oil (ad a quart or between oil changes)but it
> would explain the
poor performance I have been getting. I had thought
> it might have
something to do with my idler motor because I had it
> cleaned recently
but was told it could need replacing. (It still turns
> over too often
before starting and occasionally loses it's RPM's at idle
***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 07 Mar 2002 16:09:03
-0500
From: Shannon <
shannon@oxfordlearning.com>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Cracked rear turbo
Thanks Roger,
I have not went to
the dealer yet to see the damage but I'll have to. The
idler motor was
previously cleaned because the car was stalling and wouldn't
hold it's idle
rev. The mechanic said he cleaned it and it seemed to work
but
mentioned that it could re-occur at anytime, in which case, replacement
would
be necessary. It's not reoccurring as bad but it stalls,
particularly when
the car is cold, for no reason.
Roger Gerl
wrote:
> Is it proven that the rear turbo is cracked. Let them show
you the damage !
> Same to the idler motor ... why was it cleaned
?
>
> Sounds to my like "try and error" the dealer does
!!
>
> Roger
> 93'3000GT TT
>
www.rtec.ch>
> > Long story short
but the dealer told me that my rear turbo is cracked
> > and needs
replacing. I don't' know what to think because the car has
> >
not been losing that much oil (ad a quart or between oil changes)but it
>
> would explain the poor performance I have been getting. I had
thought
> > it might have something to do with my idler motor because I
had it
> > cleaned recently but was told it could need replacing. (It
still turns
> > over too often before starting and occasionally loses
it's RPM's at idle
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 7 Mar 2002 13:30:58
-0800 (PST)
From: menalteed <
menalteed@yahoo.com>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: Cracked rear turbo
I was at my dealer and he also gave me the
news about
the rear turbo, but also mentioned that they would
both need to
be replaced as the front was starting to
make some noise from the bearings.
Ok I asked him how
much and Then almost fell apart after he told me
that
the turbos cost 1500 each and that was before labor.
Now I know my
dealer is dishonest to start with so I
thanked him and went home and bought
two upgraded 13G
turbos
for around 1400 for both and another 200 so far
in
tools and gaskets and such. Now my new turbos are in
and I sold the old
ones for 200 for the pair as is, to
a turbo shop. I'm waiting for some better
weather so I
can remove my intercoolers and clean them then put
everything
back together and get back on the road.
All in all knowing the dealer I
saved over 3 grand
from what the dishonest dealer would have stuck to
me.
I sure wish their was a honest shop someplace near
Seattle but so far
haven't found one, when they see a
Stealth they see dollar signs and a
vacation to
Hawaii.
Bt the wasy I'n not a machanic just a person who
does
most everything myself because I have to, I can't
afford to pay what
they ask. I did the turbo change in
my driveway, wasn't to bad realy! Not a
peice of cake
but now that itis done, seems fairly easy.
***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 7 Mar 2002 16:35:41
-0500
From: "alan92rttt" <
a92rttt@hotmail.com>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: Cracked rear turbo
How much do they want to replace it? My dealer
told me $1800 per stock
turbo.
If you upgrade you will need to upgrade
both. But, you can get upgrade pairs
for what the dealer tried to sell me one
for.
All prices below are for a pair.
Dynamic Racing DR500's
$1500(+600 core charge)
Importpoweronline.com tec 13g group buy
1450
Importpoweronline.com tec 15g group buy 1800
If you run stock
boost you can "probably" run just the new turbos and still
be safe. But, if
you want to bost higher than stock you will need
other
upgrades.
Alan
- ----- Original Message -----
From:
"Shannon" <
shannon@oxfordlearning.com>
To:
<
Team3S@stealth-3000gt.st>
Sent:
Thursday, March 07, 2002 3:37 PM
Subject: Team3S: Cracked rear
turbo
> Hey gents,
>
> I have been reading your site for
years now and unfortunately never had
> enough money to do my mods and
fortunately, never had a problem with my
> 92 Stealth TT(other than a
busted oil cooler pump), so I never got to
> try your suggestions
out.
>
> Sadly, I have recently had problems with my baby, it was
bogging out at
> around 4,000 rpm's occasionally, however, not all the
time but quite
> often. I almost lost a drag to a Firebird the other
day and decided
> enough is enough and took her in.
>
> Long
story short but the dealer told me that my rear turbo is cracked
> and
needs replacing. I don't' know what to think because the car has
>
not been losing that much oil (ad a quart or between oil changes)but it
>
would explain the poor performance I have been getting. I had
thought
> it might have something to do with my idler motor because I had
it
> cleaned recently but was told it could need replacing. (It still
turns
> over too often before starting and occasionally loses it's RPM's
at idle
>
> and stalls)
>
> Anyway, my question is "what
do you guys think and if I do replace this
> thing, is there any
performance upgrades I should be looking at, seeing
> I'm replacing the
rear turbo anyway? I don't know if you can upgrade
> one turbo and
not the other. I would like to get some bang for my buck,
>
>
seeing I have to spend it regardless. The dealer also mentioned
>
rebuilding
> the turbo, any feedback with regards to that subject would be
beneficial
>
> as well.
>
> Any advice or assistance
would be greatly appreciated. I love this car
> and was just about
to decide if I should spend a few bucks on her or get
>
> a newer
one. Now, it looks like at least, I have an easier decision to
>
make!!
>
> Thanks in advance,
>
> Shannon
Rowe
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 7 Mar 2002 16:44:33
-0500
From: "alan92rttt" <
a92rttt@hotmail.com>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: Cracked rear turbo
Right now the 13g's are probably the least
expencive. At 1450 with not core
charge its less out of pocket and a $50
saving overall.
As far as HP goes that totally depends on what you do. If
you just put them
in you will probably not see anymajor performance upgrades.
But, With a
boost controller, Fuel pump, fuel controller, Injectors (and
guages to
monitor all of this stuff) you can probably get to 500+HP(this is a
guess).
Of course all the parts will not be free.
I'm doing a budget
repair/upgrade. 13g's, Manual Boost controller,egt
guage(maybe) and fuel
pump. If you want to copy my plan add a boost guage(I
have one), This should
allow me to get to the hit high 300's or maybe low
400's.
The key
thing is I'll have alot of room left in the turbos and won't be
leaving smoke
trails (front and real oil seals are failing).
Alan
- -----
Original Message -----
From: "Shannon" <
shannon@oxfordlearning.com>
To:
"alan92rttt" <
a92rttt@hotmail.com>
Sent: Thursday,
March 07, 2002 4:29 PM
Subject: Re: Team3S: Cracked rear turbo
>
Thanks Alan,
>
> Yeah that's the kind of information I'm looking
for. I'm in Canada, but
with
> the exchange rate, they are
charging about $ 1,600US for one turbo,
including
>
installation.
>
> I would like to upgrade, but sadly, don't have
much money to spend. I
like
> your idea of the DR500's.
Does the $1500 include installation? What HP
gain
> am I looking
at and what other upgrades ($) am I looking at?
>
> Again, thanks
for the assistance.
>
> Shannon
>
> alan92rttt
wrote:
>
> > How much do they want to replace it? My dealer told
me $1800 per stock
> > turbo.
> > If you upgrade you will need
to upgrade both. But, you can get upgrade
pairs
> > for what the
dealer tried to sell me one for.
> >
> > All prices below are
for a pair.
> > Dynamic Racing DR500's $1500(+600 core charge)
>
> Importpoweronline.com tec 13g group buy 1450
> >
Importpoweronline.com tec 15g group buy 1800
> >
> > If you
run stock boost you can "probably" run just the new turbos and
still
>
> be safe. But, if you want to bost higher than stock you will need
other
> > upgrades.
> >
> > Alan
> > -----
Original Message -----
> > From: "Shannon" <
shannon@oxfordlearning.com>
>
> To: <
Team3S@stealth-3000gt.st>
>
> Sent: Thursday, March 07, 2002 3:37 PM
> > Subject: Team3S:
Cracked rear turbo
> >
> > > Hey gents,
> >
>
> > > I have been reading your site for years now and
unfortunately never
had
> > > enough money to do my mods and
fortunately, never had a problem with
my
> > > 92 Stealth
TT(other than a busted oil cooler pump), so I never got to
> > > try
your suggestions out.
> > >
> > > Sadly, I have recently
had problems with my baby, it was bogging out
at
> > > around
4,000 rpm's occasionally, however, not all the time but quite
> > >
often. I almost lost a drag to a Firebird the other day and
decided
> > > enough is enough and took her in.
> >
>
> > > Long story short but the dealer told me that my rear
turbo is cracked
> > > and needs replacing. I don't' know what
to think because the car has
> > > not been losing that much oil (ad
a quart or between oil changes)but
it
> > > would explain the
poor performance I have been getting. I had thought
> > > it
might have something to do with my idler motor because I had it
> >
> cleaned recently but was told it could need replacing. (It still
turns
> > > over too often before starting and occasionally loses
it's RPM's at
idle
> > >
> > > and stalls)
>
> >
> > > Anyway, my question is "what do you guys think and
if I do replace
this
> > > thing, is there any performance
upgrades I should be looking at,
seeing
> > > I'm replacing the
rear turbo anyway? I don't know if you can upgrade
> > > one
turbo and not the other. I would like to get some bang for
my
buck,
> > >
> > > seeing I have to spend it
regardless. The dealer also mentioned
> > > rebuilding
>
> > the turbo, any feedback with regards to that subject would
be
beneficial
> > >
> > > as well.
> >
>
> > > Any advice or assistance would be greatly
appreciated. I love this
car
> > > and was just about to
decide if I should spend a few bucks on her or
get
> > >
>
> > a newer one. Now, it looks like at least, I have an easier
decision
to
> > > make!!
> > >
> > >
Thanks in advance,
> > >
> > > Shannon
Rowe
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 7 Mar 2002 16:11:13
-0600
From: "cody" <
overclck@satx.rr.com>
Subject: RE:
Team3S: Cracked rear turbo
I just wanna throw this out there, cause the
cheapest way would be to
find someone upgrading their factory stock
turbos. I have seen pairs of
good condition 9B's (stock turbos) go for
$300. You could also possibly
have yours repaired for much less than a
replacement also (depending on
the "crack").
- -Cody
-
-----Original Message-----
From:
owner-team3s@team3s.com
[mailto:owner-team3s@team3s.com] On Behalf
Of alan92rttt
Sent: Thursday,
March 07, 2002 3:45 PM
To:
shannon@oxfordlearning.com;
Team3S@stealth-3000gt.stSubject:
Re: Team3S: Cracked rear turbo
Right now the 13g's are probably the least
expencive. At 1450 with not
core
charge its less out of pocket and a $50
saving overall.
As far as HP goes that totally depends on what you do. If
you just put
them
in you will probably not see anymajor performance
upgrades. But, With a
boost controller, Fuel pump, fuel controller, Injectors
(and guages to
monitor all of this stuff) you can probably get to 500+HP(this
is a
guess).
Of course all the parts will not be free.
I'm doing a
budget repair/upgrade. 13g's, Manual Boost controller,egt
guage(maybe) and
fuel pump. If you want to copy my plan add a boost
guage(I
have one), This
should allow me to get to the hit high 300's or
maybe
low
400's.
The key thing is I'll have alot of room left in
the turbos and won't be
leaving smoke trails (front and real oil seals are
failing).
Alan
- ----- Original Message -----
From: "Shannon"
<
shannon@oxfordlearning.com>
To:
"alan92rttt" <
a92rttt@hotmail.com>
Sent: Thursday,
March 07, 2002 4:29 PM
Subject: Re: Team3S: Cracked rear turbo
>
Thanks Alan,
>
> Yeah that's the kind of information I'm looking
for. I'm in Canada,
but
with
> the exchange rate, they are
charging about $ 1,600US for one turbo,
including
>
installation.
>
> I would like to upgrade, but sadly, don't have
much money to spend. I
like
> your idea of the DR500's.
Does the $1500 include installation? What
HP
gain
> am I
looking at and what other upgrades ($) am I looking at?
>
> Again,
thanks for the assistance.
>
> Shannon
>
> alan92rttt
wrote:
>
> > How much do they want to replace it? My dealer told
me $1800 per
stock
> > turbo.
> > If you upgrade you will
need to upgrade both. But, you can get
upgrade
pairs
> > for what
the dealer tried to sell me one for.
> >
> > All prices below
are for a pair.
> > Dynamic Racing DR500's $1500(+600 core
charge)
> > Importpoweronline.com tec 13g group buy 1450
> >
Importpoweronline.com tec 15g group buy 1800
> >
> > If you
run stock boost you can "probably" run just the new
turbos
and
still
> > be safe. But, if you want to bost higher
than stock you will need
other
> > upgrades.
> >
>
> Alan
> > ----- Original Message -----
> > From: "Shannon"
<
shannon@oxfordlearning.com>
>
> To: <
Team3S@stealth-3000gt.st>
>
> Sent: Thursday, March 07, 2002 3:37 PM
> > Subject: Team3S:
Cracked rear turbo
> >
> > > Hey gents,
> >
>
> > > I have been reading your site for years now and
unfortunately
never
had
> > > enough money to do my mods and
fortunately, never had a problem
with
my
> > > 92 Stealth
TT(other than a busted oil cooler pump), so I never got
to
> > >
try your suggestions out.
> > >
> > > Sadly, I have
recently had problems with my baby, it was bogging
out
at
> >
> around 4,000 rpm's occasionally, however, not all the time
but
quite
> > > often. I almost lost a drag to a Firebird
the other day and
decided
> > > enough is enough and took her
in.
> > >
> > > Long story short but the dealer told me
that my rear turbo is
cracked
> > > and needs replacing. I
don't' know what to think because the car
has
> > > not been
losing that much oil (ad a quart or between oil
changes)but
it
>
> > would explain the poor performance I have been getting. I
had
thought
> > > it might have something to do with my idler
motor because I had it
> > > cleaned recently but was told it could
need replacing. (It still
turns
> > > over too often before
starting and occasionally loses it's RPM's
at
idle
> >
>
> > > and stalls)
> > >
> > > Anyway,
my question is "what do you guys think and if I do replace
this
> >
> thing, is there any performance upgrades I should be looking
at,
seeing
> > > I'm replacing the rear turbo anyway? I
don't know if you can
upgrade
> > > one turbo and not the
other. I would like to get some bang for my
buck,
> >
>
> > > seeing I have to spend it regardless. The dealer
also mentioned
> > > rebuilding
> > > the turbo, any
feedback with regards to that subject would be
beneficial
> >
>
> > > as well.
> > >
> > > Any advice
or assistance would be greatly appreciated. I love
this
car
>
> > and was just about to decide if I should spend a few bucks on
her
or
get
> > >
> > > a newer one. Now, it
looks like at least, I have an easier
decision
to
> > >
make!!
> > >
> > > Thanks in advance,
> >
>
> > > Shannon Rowe
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 7 Mar 2002 17:01:35
-0600
From: "Black, Dave (ICT)" <
dblai@allstate.com>
Subject: Team3S:
Power gain on WI/AI - was Water Injection Tuning (long)
Roger,
How
is it that you will see no performance gain from adding WI/AI? I
would
think the water/alcohol injection would allow for more stable and
efficient
combustion and cooler temperatures which would equate to slightly
more
power.
Is this not a correct assumption?
Dave 95VR4
http://www.daveblack.net>
-----Original Message-----
> From: Roger Gerl
[SMTP:roger.gerl@bluewin.ch]
> Sent: Monday, March 04, 2002 3:54
PM
> To: Team3S List (E-mail)
> Subject: Re: Team3S: Water Injection
Tuning (long)
>
> > to be a function of the engine RPM and the
boost pressure.
>
> Or TPS input !
>
> > * Boost
currently set at 0.8bar to 1.0bar on the street
> > * Would like to run
1.0bar on the track without worries
>
> Very conserative
:-)
>
> > * Low Speed, High Underhood Temp Intercooling
>
> * Higher RPM Intercooling
> > * Detonation Prevention/Control at
higher than stock boost
> >
> > * Injector nozzle in y-pipe
right before throttle body
>
> Too close for any intercooling
purposes therefore it is only used to
> control
>
detonation.
>
> > Current Results:
> > No stumbling or
apparent spark blow-out, no noticeable power loss due to
> >
over-cooling, and no significant power gains (butt-dyno).
>
> You
will see no gain at all.
>
> > Questions:
> > 1)
Comments on my choice of activation point for the
> > WI?
(0.55bar/8psi)
>
> 0.8 bars is well enough
>
> > 2)
Comments on my current choice of RPM/flow curve?
>
> Start to spray
around 3500
>
> > 3) What should I expect to feel (while
driving) or
> > see (on dyno graphs) if I inject too much
water?
>
> Too much water causes spark blowout and
hesitation.
>
> > 4) I've heard that the way to tune WI is to
increase
> > the flow rate until you get some power loss or
>
> stumbling and then back it off a little? Sound right?
>
> Tune
it to avoid knock or high EGT
>
> Roger
> 93'3000GT
TT
>
www.rtec.ch***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 7 Mar 2002 17:06:01
-0600
From: "Jannusch, Matt" <
mjannusch@marketwatch.com>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: Power gain on WI/AI - was Water Injection Tuning (lon g)
>
How is it that you will see no performance gain from adding
>
WI/AI? I would think the water/alcohol injection would allow
> for
more stable and efficient combustion and cooler
> temperatures which
would equate to slightly more power.
If you aren't having combustion
problems (knock, detonation) then adding
water won't increase power. By
adding water in that case it is displacing
air/fuel mixture and slightly
(although not noticibly) reducing power
output. You need to crank in
more boost and more fuel to increase power
output.
The water allows
you to push things farther before knock gets serious.
Unless you push, you
get nothing from the addition of water to the
combustion process.
-
-Matt
'95 3000GT Spyder VR4
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 7 Mar 2002 15:15:56
-0800 (PST)
From: Geoff Mohler <
gemohler@www.speedtoys.com>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Power gain on WI/AI - was Water Injection Tuning
(long)
However, water doesnt burn. it will displace a small amount
of air..which
reduces your fuel consumption.
On Thu, 7 Mar 2002,
Black, Dave (ICT) wrote:
> Roger,
>
> How is it that you
will see no performance gain from adding WI/AI? I would
> think the
water/alcohol injection would allow for more stable and efficient
>
combustion and cooler temperatures which would equate to slightly more
>
power.
>
> Is this not a correct assumption?
>
> Dave
95VR4
>
http://www.daveblack.net>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> > From: Roger Gerl
[SMTP:roger.gerl@bluewin.ch]
> > Sent: Monday, March 04, 2002 3:54
PM
> > To: Team3S List (E-mail)
> > Subject: Re: Team3S: Water
Injection Tuning (long)
> >
> > > to be a function of the
engine RPM and the boost pressure.
> >
> > Or TPS input
!
> >
> > > * Boost currently set at 0.8bar to 1.0bar on
the street
> > > * Would like to run 1.0bar on the track without
worries
> >
> > Very conserative :-)
> >
>
> > * Low Speed, High Underhood Temp Intercooling
> > > *
Higher RPM Intercooling
> > > * Detonation Prevention/Control at
higher than stock boost
> > >
> > > * Injector nozzle in
y-pipe right before throttle body
> >
> > Too close for any
intercooling purposes therefore it is only used to
> > control
>
> detonation.
> >
> > > Current Results:
> >
> No stumbling or apparent spark blow-out, no noticeable power loss due
to
> > > over-cooling, and no significant power gains
(butt-dyno).
> >
> > You will see no gain at all.
>
>
> > > Questions:
> > > 1) Comments on my choice of
activation point for the
> > > WI? (0.55bar/8psi)
> >
> > 0.8 bars is well enough
> >
> > > 2)
Comments on my current choice of RPM/flow curve?
> >
> >
Start to spray around 3500
> >
> > > 3) What should I
expect to feel (while driving) or
> > > see (on dyno graphs) if I
inject too much water?
> >
> > Too much water causes spark
blowout and hesitation.
> >
> > > 4) I've heard that the
way to tune WI is to increase
> > > the flow rate until you get some
power loss or
> > > stumbling and then back it off a little? Sound
right?
> >
> > Tune it to avoid knock or high EGT
>
>
> > Roger
> > 93'3000GT TT
> >
www.rtec.ch- ---
Geoff
Mohler
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 7 Mar 2002 15:34:20
-0800
From: "Geddes, Brian J" <
brian.j.geddes@intel.com>
Subject:
Team3S: Suspension "creaks" on braking...
All -
My VR-4's
suspension is, for lack of a better word, "creaking" when I brake.
It occurs
only on the first 1 or 2 braking events after I start the car.
After the
braking to a stop once or twice (from less than 25 MPH), the noise
is gone
until I arrive at my destination and park for a while. It returns
the
next time I drive the car. From my driver's seat perspective, the
noise
sounds like it's coming from the center of the front axle. I
don't feel
anything abnormal in the steering wheel when I hear the
noise.
I'm going to put my VR-4 up on jacks and have a look around, but
to be
honest I'm not sure what to look for. Ideas, advice?
Thanks,
- - Brian
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 07 Mar 2002 17:46:43
-0600
From: "
merritt@cedar-rapids.net" <
merritt@cedar-rapids.net>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Suspension "creaks" on braking...
Might be the front spring
landing. Dirt gets up in there. It's worse with modded cars, because we don't
have the rubber boot around the spring any more. Just take the weight off the
car to drop the springs down enough to clean the landings.
Rich
At 03:34 PM 3/7/02 -0800, Geddes, Brian J wrote:
>All
-
>
>My VR-4's suspension is, for lack of a better word, "creaking"
when I brake.
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 7 Mar 2002 16:01:38
-0800
From: "Gross, Erik" <
erik.gross@intel.com>
Subject: RE:
Team3S: Water Injection Tuning (long)
> > * Low Speed, High
Underhood Temp Intercooling
> > * Higher RPM Intercooling
> >
* Detonation Prevention/Control at higher than stock boost
> >
>
> * Injector nozzle in y-pipe right before throttle body
>
> Too
close for any intercooling purposes therefore it is only
> used to
control detonation.
Is this really true? Surely there is *some*
intercooling going on when you
inject near the throttle body??? I read
(on the internet, so it must be
true) that injecting near the TB actually
increases the volumetric
efficiency of the intake stroke because the
evaporation occurs in (or very
close to the cylinder).
I agree
that the TB position of the WI nozzle is not optimal for
intercooling, but I
don't want the possibility of water pooling in my
intercoolers, so I decided
not to inject farther upstream near the
intercoolers.
> >
Current Results:
> > No stumbling or apparent spark blow-out, no
noticeable
> power loss due to
> > over-cooling, and no
significant power gains (butt-dyno).
>
> You will see no gain at
all.
I expected little to no gain because the boost remains the
same. However,
if there is any extra intercooling going on, then I'd
expect a small gain in
the region where intake temperatures normally start to
rise. Probably not
enough to sense with the 'ol butt-dyno, though
:-)
> > 2) Comments on my current choice of RPM/flow curve?
>
> Start to spray around 3500
Could you elaborate on why you want
to inject there, rather than, say
2500RPM? Obviously you don't need to
inject when there's no boost, but I
can get reasonable boost a little before
3000 most of the time...
> > 3) What should I expect to feel (while
driving) or
> > see (on dyno graphs) if I inject too much
water?
>
> Too much water causes spark blowout and
hesitation.
Ok, that sounds good. When it stops snowing here (not
normal for my area),
I'll have a chance to go do some runs with the Road Dyno
and see how this
works. I figure with my 0.8mm nozzle (330cc/min at
100% IDC) maxed out,
that will net me a water:fuel ratio of 15% or more and
should be sufficient
to cause stumbling when the FI isn't at 100% IDC.
I guess I'll open 'er up
and then back it off until I see no stumbling or
power loss.
> > 4) I've heard that the way to tune WI is to
increase
> > the flow rate until you get some power loss or
>
> stumbling and then back it off a little? Sound right?
>
> Tune
it to avoid knock or high EGT
'95 car so no knock sensor :-( EGT
gauges sitting in my kitchen - I'll have
'em in eventually :-) Until
then, I have the butt-dyno and the Road Dyno to
tune things - I'll keep it
very conservative until I get the gauges in.
- --Erik
'95
VR-4
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 7 Mar 2002 16:06:23
-0800
From: "Gross, Erik" <
erik.gross@intel.com>
Subject: RE:
Team3S: Suspension "creaks" on braking...
> My VR-4's suspension is,
for lack of a better word,
> "creaking" when I brake. It occurs only on
the first
> 1 or 2 braking events after I start the car.
It also
seems to happen when changing thrust directions - for example,
backing up,
brake...creak...stop, accelerate forward, brake...creak..stop.
> From
my driver's seat perspective, the noise
> sounds like it's coming from the
center of the front axle.
>From the passenger's perspective <g>
it seems to come from the
passenger-side front suspension. I can feel
it in the floorpan. It
*almost* sounds/feels like a bad CV joint, but
it's not repetitive and it
doesn't seem to matter if the steering is straight
or turning.
- --Erik
(rides in Brian's car a lot)
***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 7 Mar 2002 16:26:28
-0800
From: "dakken" <
dougusmagnus@attbi.com>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Suspension "creaks" on braking...
I had the same problem on
my Celica. It turned out that some automatic
transmission fluid got on
some of my rubber bushing and made them expand.
This in turn caused one of my
lower A arm bolts to loosen. That may not be
it in your case but it
doesn't hurt to look.
Doug
92 Stealth RT TT
***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 7 Mar 2002 20:16:25
-0500
From: "Wayne Bonnett" <
wayne@wbwebsol.com>
Subject: Team3S:
Bridgestone PP S-03
Anyone have these tires on the 3S? If so, I'm
looking for some feedback
like tire wear, grip, etc.
I'm needing to
buy some new tires, and I would like a little input from the
group. I
will be in several autox events, upwards of 20, and I can't spend
the money
on race tires. So I need a street able but sticky tire.
Thanks in
advance,
Wayne
97 3000GT Base (Black)
K&N FIPK
TEC front
strut brace
Cusco Non adjustable rear strut brace
***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 07 Mar 2002 20:20:11
-0500
From: "Jerry B." <
scorpman@optonline.net>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Bridgestone PP S-03
Hey Wayne,
if you wanted an awesome
street tire/rain tire/ but performance and still
run cheap,,, the Potenza RE
950's are the way to go,,
I have them on one of my current 2 stealths and I
am more then happy with
them and they handle great,, rain no problem and you
are only going to pay
like 130 a piece,, not sure of your finacial situation
but you get more for
the buck out of these tires,, have any questions let me
know I can help you
out alot further
Jerry 93 Stealth
RT/TT & 92 Stealth ES
http://higherbeingttstealthrt.cjb.net/***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 7 Mar 2002 18:13:16
-0800
From: "fastmax" <
fastmax@cox.net>
Subject: Re: Team3S:
Water Injection Tuning (long)
That's one of the reasons to get a quality
unit --- high pressure pumps
are a requirement to atomize the fuel. Cheap
pumps can't get the fine
particles necessary to prevent
pooling.
Jim
Berry
====================================
- ----- Original Message -----
From: "Gross, Erik" <
erik.gross@intel.com>
> I
agree that the TB position of the WI nozzle is not optimal for
>
intercooling, but I don't want the possibility of water pooling in my
>
intercoolers, so I decided not to inject farther upstream near the
>
intercoolers.
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 7 Mar 2002 22:29:40
EST
From:
CMUSCELLA@aol.comSubject: Team3S: (no
subject)
Brakes HELP
Just changed my brakes(98 SL).
Now I have
this low squeak/grinding/rubbing kinda like teeth grinding when
slowing down
during a slow stop. What is it? I think it those bolts that
the
Caliber rides on. In other words the caliber rocking back and forth on
those
2 bolts . I packed those bolts big time with grease but it only
stopped for a little bit. Is it really those bolts? What do I
need to stop
it. Or what really is it?
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 7 Mar 2002 23:58:17
EST
From:
RDO26@aol.comSubject:
Team3S: Japanese Carfax?
Does anyone know if Carfax has similar VIN
checking abilites in Japan-i.e. if
in Japan you can go on a similar type
of website, enter your Japanese
market VIN and get registration
dates, mileages, changes of ownership and
perhaps accident reports? I was
thinking this might be a handy tool in
comming up with the mileage on some
of those Jspec engines some of us have
been buying.
On a similar
vein, does anyone know if Mike Reid (94RT/TT-Mike) still
frequents 3si
or subscribes to this list?
Ron Ortiz
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 08 Mar 2002 05:36:34
+0000
From:
apedenko@attbi.comSubject: RE: Team3S:
Cracked rear turbo
How do you spot a broken/faulty turbo?
Alex.
'95 Vr4
> I just wanna throw this out there, cause the
cheapest way would be to
> find someone upgrading their factory stock
turbos. I have seen pairs of
> good condition 9B's (stock turbos) go
for $300. You could also possibly
> have yours repaired for much
less than a replacement also (depending on
> the "crack").
>
> -Cody
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From:
owner-team3s@team3s.com
[mailto:owner-team3s@team3s.com] On Behalf
> Of alan92rttt
> Sent:
Thursday, March 07, 2002 3:45 PM
> To:
shannon@oxfordlearning.com;
Team3S@stealth-3000gt.st>
Subject: Re: Team3S: Cracked rear turbo
>
> Right now the 13g's are
probably the least expencive. At 1450 with not
> core
> charge its
less out of pocket and a $50 saving overall.
>
> As far as HP goes
that totally depends on what you do. If you just put
> them
> in you
will probably not see anymajor performance upgrades. But, With a
> boost
controller, Fuel pump, fuel controller, Injectors (and guages to
> monitor
all of this stuff) you can probably get to 500+HP(this is a
>
guess).
> Of course all the parts will not be free.
>
> I'm
doing a budget repair/upgrade. 13g's, Manual Boost controller,egt
>
guage(maybe) and fuel pump. If you want to copy my plan add a boost
>
guage(I
> have one), This should allow me to get to the hit high 300's or
maybe
> low
> 400's.
>
> The key thing is I'll have
alot of room left in the turbos and won't be
> leaving smoke trails (front
and real oil seals are failing).
>
> Alan
>
> -----
Original Message -----
> From: "Shannon" <
shannon@oxfordlearning.com>
>
To: "alan92rttt" <
a92rttt@hotmail.com>
> Sent:
Thursday, March 07, 2002 4:29 PM
> Subject: Re: Team3S: Cracked rear
turbo
>
> > Thanks Alan,
> >
> > Yeah that's
the kind of information I'm looking for. I'm in Canada,
>
but
> with
> > the exchange rate, they are charging about $
1,600US for one turbo,
> including
> > installation.
>
>
> > I would like to upgrade, but sadly, don't have much money to
spend. I
> like
> > your idea of the DR500's. Does
the $1500 include installation? What
> HP
> gain
> >
am I looking at and what other upgrades ($) am I looking at?
>
>
> > Again, thanks for the assistance.
> >
> >
Shannon
> >
> > alan92rttt wrote:
> >
> >
> How much do they want to replace it? My dealer told me $1800 per
>
stock
> > > turbo.
> > > If you upgrade you will need to
upgrade both. But, you can get
> upgrade
> pairs
> > >
for what the dealer tried to sell me one for.
> > >
> >
> All prices below are for a pair.
> > > Dynamic Racing DR500's
$1500(+600 core charge)
> > > Importpoweronline.com tec 13g group
buy 1450
> > > Importpoweronline.com tec 15g group buy 1800
>
> >
> > > If you run stock boost you can "probably" run just
the new turbos
> and
> still
> > > be safe. But, if you
want to bost higher than stock you will need
> other
> > >
upgrades.
> > >
> > > Alan
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 8 Mar 2002 01:51:12
-0500
From: "Darren Schilberg" <
dschilberg@pobox.com>
Subject: RE:
Team3S: Re: Race seat and harness safety
Dave,
Look
on Team3S FAQ for the bare-bones install of the rollbar (or
contact me
off-list for more details). I never made a full set of notes
but can
augment whatever is there. The most critical things to be aware
of are
that you will lose your rear speakers (rollbar legs go right
through the
speaker holes) and if you have a manual-crank sunroof then
you will lose
operation of the crank but a power sunroof switch can be
operated. The
rear seats are rendered useless. If you are comfortable
with these
three issues then read on.
I/O Port Racing in California was
where I bought the rollbar (Ken
Myers) and it was $450 and is the Autopower
Race Rollbar and took
between 4-6 weeks for delivery. I bought the
optional harness bar ($50)
and the optional diagonal crossbrace ($50) and the
grand total on the
shipping slip was 60 pounds so that is what I go by (if
you have less
options then it will weigh less). I believe a full
rollcage weighs in
the neighborhood of 150 pounds. Be sure to check the
size and
construction of your material needs (DOM, ERW, 2" dia, 1-1/2"
dia,
etc.).
I am very happy with it and it suits my
needs. Your car might be
setup for AutoX or drag or street or show so
plan accordingly. Mine
fits the application just fine and if you don't
use one for your
particular scenario then so be it -- I can just comment on
what I've
encountered.
Autopower does not make a rollcage for
our car so that would be a
custom-built unit. Most of their rollbars
can be converted into a
rollcage but I was informed that Autopower does not
make this for our
car. They can custom make a design I'm sure or maybe
TAD Motorsports in
Chicago, IL (works on Mitsubishi rally cars) will be able
to help.
Let me know if you have other questions.
-
--Flash!
1995 VR-4
- -----Original Message-----
From:
bdtrent
Sent: Saturday, March 02, 2002 08:04
Darren,
You
bring up a good point. You also threw a wrench into my
spring
upgrade
plans. I was looking forward to a easy 60lb. weight
reduction with a
set of
seats. Now this will likely be eclipsed by
the weight of a roll-bar.
Do
you have any pics, weight, or pricing
info?
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 8 Mar 2002 02:02:26
-0500
From: "Bill vp" <
billvp@highstream.net>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: Re: Percentage in drivetrain loss
you have a 1st gen, he a
2nd ... it seems to me that since the gearing is
different, you can't
directly correlate the two
On Thu, 7 Mar 2002
Jeff.A.Williamson@jci.com
wrote:
> OK. Now that I've gone through all the posts on this latest
thread about
> drivetrain loss, I'm still not sure how to calculate my hp.
I was with
Jack
> and the others at the AWD dyno in Chicago. (And no,
Jack's no Arnold
> Schwarzenegger, but he runs a close second!!!) Joe's
bone stock '96 TT
> measured 238hp at the wheels. So if you do the math,
and assuming he has
> 320hp at the crank, he had a 26% drivetrain loss or
82hp. My car ran 360hp
> at the wheels. So how much crank horsepower do I
have, 485 or 442? Or is
> this really an impossible question without
actually using an engine dyno?
>
> Jeff W
> Belleville,
MI
> '92 VR4
>
> >I like Jack's example of turning the
driveline by hand. Now I don't know
> >Jack personally, but lets
assume that he is not Arnold Schwarzenegger.
Do
> >you think that
the amount of effort to turn the driveline would increase
> >just
because some strong man was turning the driveline? I don't think
>
>so...the required energy would remain the same, but the percent of
the
> >potential energy would drop. i.e, Jack may work up a
sweat, but Arnold
> may
> >not even increase his heart
rate.
- ---
Geoff Mohler
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 8 Mar 2002 02:07:55
-0500
From: "Darren Schilberg" <
dschilberg@pobox.com>
Subject: RE:
Team3S: Front Strut Tower Bars
FYI -- Check if the Cusco has an
integrated battery tie-down bracket
like Chris' does (who sells them and
where are they at this price?). I
find this a plus. Also, being
able to deal with the manufacturer
directly, personally, etc. is nice.
My Optima batter is slightly
narrower than his but he is willing to elongate
two of the bolt holes
for the battery tray that will allow me to re-size this
to my battery.
I doubt large companies will change designs like
this.
Just trying to show why you get what you pay for sometimes.
Cusco might
be perfect for the budget racer who sees little speed or momentum
shift
but I encourage others to get something that will definitely hold
our
car in place when it needs to be.
I tested both of Chris' (TEC
Performance,
www.tecperformance.com)
strut
tower bars (front and rear) and think they are an improvement over
what
is available aftermarket. Some design steps are still not complete
but
even the prototypes are nice.
- --Flash!
1995 VR-4
-
-----Original Message-----
From: Todd D.Shelton
Sent: Sunday, March 03,
2002 16:25
Talk about a day late and a dollar short!
Where
were they 7 or 8 years ago when
we were all SCREAMING for front
strut
bars?!
Now that our very own have gone
to the trouble and expense
of
building and selling their
own front bars now Cusco
comes along with
front bars?!
I figure not long after Paul
builds the rear
adjustable
control arm for rear camber
adjustment Cusco or
some other
big name will
decide to offer theirs ......
Sorry .... I get tired of
this
cycle we have come to see.
We ask, beg, plead, request
parts
for years on end and get nothing.
We aren't worth the trouble they
say ....
Then one of our own car owners
gets tired of waiting for
nothing, does
the R&D to produce their own and
*then* a "Cusco" or
whoever comes
along with theirs. (years later from the
initial
demand)
I've already got a front bar (after waiting
about 7 years)
from one of our owners but
if I didn't I wouldn't buy a Cusco over
the
others now available.
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 8 Mar 2002 02:57:15
-0500
From: "Darren Schilberg" <
dschilberg@pobox.com>
Subject: RE:
Team3S: Ham/CB antenna installation
The standard-size magnet mount CB
antenna from Radio Shack here in the
states (about 36" I reckon) blows off at
100 mph when on top of the
metal roof of a car. However, if you place
this just in front of the
rear wing then it stay put even at 148 mph.
Don't ask how. It just
does. This is also a good location because
a roof-mounted one has the
chance of flying off and hitting a window and
breaking it. When on the
trunk the range is up to 2 miles in some hilly
location or longer in
open areas. I see other antennas are cell-phone
style (short, pig-tail
style) but the old school long antenna works
well. Sure it might not
look cool but it is a visual cue to truckers
that you have a CB so when
you just passed them you get some good
conversation going (talks of
Smokey and the Bandit are the most
common).
- --Flash!
1995 VR-4 with CB and Bearcat scanner (for weather
of reports of course)
- -----Original Message-----
From: George
Shaw
Sent: Wednesday, March 06, 2002 07:48
Any suggestions on the
installation position and hardware for a CB/Ham
2M/70cm antenna on a 3000GT
with manual glass roof (UK). I want
something
removable but solid (mag
mount may work) I am happy to drill holes if
need
be. Over to you
guys.
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 8 Mar 2002 03:24:42
-0500
From: "Darren Schilberg" <
dschilberg@pobox.com>
Subject: RE:
Team3S: Front Strut Bar
Not to put down Todd's choice in front strut
tower bars but check out
www.tecperformance.com as well. I
know Chris personally and he has
engineered things amazingly (knowing the
bends, welds, etc. all affect
stiffness). He can answer any questions
you may have but read his page
first before asking something that is already
cleared up.
- --Flash!
1995 VR-4 and tested both his bars for the
list
- -----Original Message-----
From: Todd D.Shelton
Sent:
Thursday, March 07, 2002 00:55
Brad, I got my front strut bar from Chris
:
Supermacnum1@aol.comMine was
$115 shipped :
http://www.qsl.net/n5mya/motor1.jpgSmaller
pic:
http://www.brightok.net/~tds/motor1_s.jpgHe
also makes a double bar for just a little more and
he builds rear strut bars
at reasonable prices too.
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 8 Mar 2002 04:22:59
-0500
From: "Darren Schilberg" <
dschilberg@pobox.com>
Subject: RE:
Team3S: Big Red Upgrades
1997-1999 3000GT SL 17" wheels do fit over a
second gen rotor and Big
Reds (that is my set of track wheels that I
use). There is no rubbing
and clearance from inside of spoke to outside
of caliper is about the
same as stock clearance (stock offset). It also
clears a first gen car
with Big Reds and Spyder VR-4 17" wheels.
The
overlap of the pad will not affect cooling to enter the inside of
the rotor
as the thickness of the rotor at this area is much thicker
than any amount of
pad that can overhand and block the holes so don't
worry about that. If
anything, the stock brake dust shield blocks more
air than the Big Red brake
pad does.
The biggest drawback of the Big Reds is that the throat width
(the
amount of daylight between pistons where the rotor and pads
pass
through) is not large enough to add a thick rotor and thick race
pads.
So you have to compromise and use a medium-thick rotor (stock) and
thick
race pads (Pagid Orange with no squeak plates or Porterfield R4 with
no
squeak plates). If you use a Supra rotor like John does then
you
*might* have to grind off the slimmest of layers of brake pad in
order
to fit the pad in the caliper. These are where each
individual
situation is different since not all brake pads are created
equal.
The AP 6-piston is "more than enough" brakes for our car as I have
never
seen them maxed out yet. A carbon-carbon setup is "more than
enough
with plenty of reserve" for our cars. Big Reds are awesome on
AutoX and
street and hold up to anything. However, for all out track
performance
they are not the ideal. Just in case you guys wanted to
know where they
fit in. Someone on stock calipers, Porterfield R4S or a
race pad or
Carbotech pads will perform nearly equally as well as someone
with Big
Red, slight pad overlap, and street pads. Driver skill and
brake
management come in to play but the Big Red is more like a modest
"step
above just cross-drilled rotors or upgraded pads" modification.
It is
either the ideal track setup (for a good driver or one who has
lightened
the car) or slightly below ideal track if you push the brakes hard
and
don't lighten your car.
- --Flash!
1995 VR-4 and Big Reds at
the moment
- -----Original Message-----
From: Steve Lasher
Sent:
Wednesday, March 06, 2002 11:16
2) There are 2 different types of
stock 17" VR-4 wheels. The 91-93, and
the 94. See the FAQ page,
"Stock & Optional Wheels '91-'99" section for
pics. My stock 92 17"
wheels did not fit. It was close enough so that
with the BR's mounted,
the wheel would spin with no interference, but
when I turned or braked, it
would rub the caliper (I lost some red
paint,
but didn't damage the
caliper - talk about close!). The stock 1994 VR-4
17" wheels do fit, as
will any of the 18" wheels. Someone has said the
stock 17" SL wheels from
97-99 will fit, but I don't know for sure. I
don't know about the 94-96
Stealth TT 17's either. The 91-93 Stealth TT
17's will not
fit.
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 08 Mar 2002 11:40:51
+0100
From: Roger Gerl <
roger.gerl@bluewin.ch>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: Water Injection Tuning (long again)
> Too close for
any intercooling purposes therefore it is only
> used to control
detonation.
>Is this really true? Surely there is *some*
intercooling going on when you
>inject near the throttle body??? I
read (on the internet, so it must be
>true) that injecting near the TB
actually increases the volumetric
>efficiency of the intake stroke because
the evaporation occurs in (or very
>close to the cylinder).
There
are three positions for water injection and one for water spray. The
later
can be used to spray onto the intercooler to increases its
efficiency. Comes
stock in the EVOs. For WI, the first position is infront
the throttle body.
This is for controlling detonation but it's sensible to
tune in and the
danger of flooding the chamber with water is there. Second
position is after
the intercooler, or in our case at the inlet of the
y-pipe mounted in a 90°
angle to the air stream. This allows detonation
control and intercooling
what is easy to be tuned and results in the best
effect. Third position is
before the intercooler. Spraying into the
intercooler decreases efficiency
of the cores due to precooling but is
necessary on cars where the IC sits on
hot positions like the Celica
ALLTRAC or the Ferrari GTO here in
Switzerland. The Intercoolers of them
are sitting on the engine in the back
and they always have to lower boost
due to the lack of intercooling. With
water injection before the IC the
problem is solved. This is not the case on
our cars.
>I agree that the TB position of the WI nozzle is not
optimal for
>intercooling, but I don't want the possibility of water
pooling in my
>intercoolers, so I decided not to inject farther upstream
near the
>intercoolers.
This is not a problem as the water will not
stay there. Remember, the
discharge temperature of a 13g at 15 psi is up to
141°C measured in the
rear IC piping when it enters to the soft pipe. The
goal is then to keep
the intake temperature below 69°C (don't know where
this figure comes from,
but I read it in a book somewhere). The hot
temperature will of course have
the ability to boil the water. But when
sprayed with a high power pump the
molecules are acting as a heat transfer.
The energy is absorbed by them and
then transported through the system to
the output. You can calculate the
air speed and the temperature and you will
notice that spraying before the
intercooler doesn't harm
anything.
>I expected little to no gain because the boost remains the
same. However,
>if there is any extra intercooling going on, then
I'd expect a small gain in
>the region where intake temperatures normally
start to rise. Probably not
>enough to sense with the 'ol butt-dyno,
though :-)
The water is not able to absorb the energy (don't know if I'm
using the
right words) immediatly and therefore it needs a way of travel
until the
intercooling effect has taken place. Easier, it can be explained
that if
the jet sits :
1. infront the TB then the most heat
transfer is done in the chamber
(detonation control)
2. after the
intercooler (away from the TB) heat is absorbed during travel
and some in
the chamber (mixed control)
3. before the IC, no heat exchange is done in the
chamber but has some
downsides.
>Could you elaborate on why you
want to inject there, rather than, say
>2500RPM? Obviously you don't
need to inject when there's no boost, but I
>can get reasonable boost a
little before 3000 most of the time...
You must set this in relation to
the temperature that is existing in the
y-pipe. The water injection in our
cars should do two things : detonation
control and reducing heat before the
TB. First allows us to run more boost
without killing the engine, second
results in more power due to the denser
air what also supports the first.
Detonation control with water is like
running high octane fuel of around 118
or even more.
Power comes from the A/F mixture and not from the water.
Therefore, if you
plan to run more boost, i.e. more air, then you have to
add more fuel too.
You can do this by spraying also alcohol (methanol
preferred) mixed with
the water into the system but this is critical. The
amount of additional
"fuel" cannot be controlled well (unless you have an
Aquamist System 2s)
and tuning is very complicated. Experts in motorsport
and rally technology
say that alcohol should only be used in winter to
prevent the water from
freezing. In fact I made some datalog runs with and
without alcohol and
zero difference was seen or felt.
In cars where
boost should not be increased above 1 bar, water helps to
cool the discharge
temperature. Otherwise the inlet temperature seen are
around 93°C (y-pipe)
at 1 bar what is to much to be good. With water
injection I once brought it
down to 38°C ... no joke. But I don't know if
this also caused some
overcooling. If there is more fuel needed one may try
to run a 50/50 mixture
with methanol and the power and O2 results must be
checked. Maybe a boost
increase can then be done but make sure the WI
system is correctly working
well in all areas when it is needed.
>works. I figure with my
0.8mm nozzle (330cc/min at 100% IDC) maxed out,
>that will net me a
water:fuel ratio of 15% or more and should be sufficient
>to cause
stumbling when the FI isn't at 100% IDC. I guess I'll open 'er
up
>and then back it off until I see no stumbling or power loss.
I
recall a max of 10% but can check back at home as I have some files from
99
lying around.
>'95 car so no knock sensor :-( EGT gauges sitting
in my kitchen - I'll have
>'em in eventually :-) Until then, I have
the butt-dyno and the Road Dyno to
>tune things - I'll keep it very
conservative until I get the gauges in.
Today I tune the WI systems to a
max temperature of 69°C on the dyno (have
it done on Nissans, Audi, and
Celicas) as installing a probe is easy.
I will try again to find the
inlet temperature information to back up this.
For a start I think it is not
bad :)
Roger
93'3000GT TT
www.rtec.ch*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
End of Team3S: 3000GT &
Stealth V1
#775
***************************************
