Team3S: 3000GT & Stealth     Monday, March 4 2002     Volume 01 : Number 771




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Date: Sun, 3 Mar 2002 00:02:38 -0800 (PST)
From: Geoff Mohler <gemohler@www.speedtoys.com>
Subject: Re: Team3S: what is the optimum a/f reading at WOT?  how to hook up?

Personally, I tune for about 12.5:1 at full boost..thats at lean as I
wanna go myself.

On Sun, 3 Mar 2002, Bill vp wrote:

> What voltage should I see for a good mixture of performance and fuel economy
> (I know they are not too compatible with each other) :)
>
> I purchased the Jumptronix A/F meter with the digital display (thanks for
> the site XWING) and was wondering what the best reading was.  Also, for any
> of you that have used this, how do I go about hooking this thing up?
>
> thanks,
> Bill

- ---
Geoff Mohler

***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***

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Date: Sun, 3 Mar 2002 03:37:21 -0500
From: "Bill vp" <billvp@highstream.net>
Subject: RE: Team3S: what is the optimum a/f reading at WOT?  how to hook up?

I mean what voltage should it be at :)

Here is the link if anyone wants to look at it.
http://www.roadraceengineering.com/eclgages.htm
Jumptronix digital A/F gauge

I know it says 0.88 lean, 0.92 good, 0.96 rich for the DSM, is that true of
our cars as well?  Should I tune to 0.92?

- -----Original Message-----
From: Geoff Mohler [mailto:gemohler@www.speedtoys.com]
Sent: Sunday, March 03, 2002 3:03 AM
To: Bill vp
Cc: team3/S
Subject: Re: Team3S: what is the optimum a/f reading at WOT? how to hook
up?

Personally, I tune for about 12.5:1 at full boost..thats at lean as I
wanna go myself.

On Sun, 3 Mar 2002, Bill vp wrote:

> What voltage should I see for a good mixture of performance and fuel
economy
> (I know they are not too compatible with each other) :)
>
> I purchased the Jumptronix A/F meter with the digital display (thanks for
> the site XWING) and was wondering what the best reading was.  Also, for
any
> of you that have used this, how do I go about hooking this thing up?
>
> thanks,
> Bill

Geoff Mohler

***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***

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Date: Sun, 03 Mar 2002 10:49:07 -0500
From: griz600cc@comcast.net
Subject: Team3S: Indiglo Gauge Faces

Did anyone else receive there gauges and install them yet? I put mine on
yesterday.

***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***

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Date: Sun, 03 Mar 2002 11:19:00 EST
From: RDO26@aol.com
Subject: Team3S: Japan and Euro CAPS needed

Hey guys

A couple of months back someone posted about having the Japan and Euro CAPS. Does anyone have a copy I can download? I'm looking into some info on a Japan only Mitsu.

Thanks!
Ron

***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***

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Date: Sun, 3 Mar 2002 12:02:27 -0500
From: "Furman, Russell" <RFurman2@MassMutual.com>
Subject: RE: Team3S: Indiglo Gauge Faces

Yeah I got mine on Thurs I think.....  They will be going in when I swap out
my center console gauges for some electronic APEXi  peak/hold gauges  :)

- -----Original Message-----
From: griz600cc@comcast.net
Sent: Sun 3/3/2002 10:49 AM
To: Team 3S
Cc:
Subject: Team3S: Indiglo Gauge Faces

Did anyone else receive there gauges and install them yet? I put mine on
yesterday.

***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***

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Date: Sun, 3 Mar 2002 10:21:55 -0700
From: "Floyd, Jim" <Jim_Floyd@maxtor.com>
Subject: RE: Team3S: Indiglo Gauge Faces

Russell,

Which APEXi gauges did you get ?

- -----Original Message-----
From: Furman, Russell [mailto:RFurman2@MassMutual.com]
Sent: Sunday, March 03, 2002 10:02 AM
To: griz600cc@comcast.net; team3S@stealth-3000gt.st
Subject: RE: Team3S: Indiglo Gauge Faces

Yeah I got mine on Thurs I think.....  They will be going in when I swap out
my center console gauges for some electronic APEXi  peak/hold gauges  :)

- -----Original Message-----
From: griz600cc@comcast.net
Sent: Sun 3/3/2002 10:49 AM
To: Team 3S
Cc:
Subject: Team3S: Indiglo Gauge Faces

Did anyone else receive there gauges and install them yet? I put mine on
yesterday.

***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***

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Date: Sun, 3 Mar 2002 12:23:52 -0500
From: "bdtrent" <bdtrent@netzero.net>
Subject: Team3S: Y-pipe Availability

Is GT-Pro the only custom y-pipe provider?  $350 seems a bit steep for what
your getting.

Regards,
DaveT/92TT

***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***

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Date: Sun, 3 Mar 2002 18:32:33 +0100
From: "Roger Gerl" <roger.gerl@bluewin.ch>
Subject: Re: Team3S: Y-pipe Availability

GT PRO y-pipe is made of aluminum ! It's pricey but the best you can get on
the market.

Roger
93'3000GT TT
www.rtec.ch

> Is GT-Pro the only custom y-pipe provider?  $350 seems a bit steep for
what
> your getting.

***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***

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Date: Sun, 3 Mar 2002 18:34:54 +0100
From: "Roger Gerl" <roger.gerl@bluewin.ch>
Subject: Re: Team3S: what is the optimum a/f reading at WOT?  how to hook up?

0.92 without knock. 0.94-0.96 if knock is present.

Roger
93'3000GT TT
ww.rtec.ch

> I mean what voltage should it be at :)

***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***

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Date: Sun, 3 Mar 2002 11:06:43 -0700
From: "Floyd, Jim" <Jim_Floyd@maxtor.com>
Subject: RE: Team3S: Y-pipe Availability

www.DNPerformance.com
Polished SS
Pictures of it installed on 3/S cars on his site.

- -----Original Message-----
From: bdtrent [mailto:bdtrent@netzero.net]
Sent: Sunday, March 03, 2002 10:24 AM
To: Team 3S
Subject: Team3S: Y-pipe Availability

Is GT-Pro the only custom y-pipe provider?  $350 seems a bit steep for what
your getting.

Regards,
DaveT/92TT

***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***

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Date: Sun, 3 Mar 2002 12:57:48 -0600
From: "Todd D.Shelton" <tds@brightok.net>
Subject: Re: Team3S: Y-pipe Availability

- -----Original Message-----
From: bdtrent <bdtrent@netzero.net>
To: Team 3S <team3s@stealth-3000gt.st>
Date: Sunday, March 03, 2002 11:26 AM
Subject: Team3S: Y-pipe Availability

>Is GT-Pro the only custom y-pipe provider?  $350 seems a bit steep for what
>your getting.
>
>Regards,
>DaveT/92TT

- -----------------------------------------------------
Alamo sells them.  I don't recall
the exact price but I think it was less.

- - tds
http://www.brightok.net/~tds

***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***

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Date: Sun, 3 Mar 2002 11:11:02 -0800
From: "dakken" <dougusmagnus@attbi.com>
Subject: Team3S: California Smog Question

This question is meant for members that live in California.  Have any of you
passed smog check 2 with an aftermarket exhaust on your car?  If so which
one?

Doug
92 Stealth RT TT

***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***

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Date: Sun, 03 Mar 2002 12:17:17 -0700
From: Wayne <whietala@prodigy.net>
Subject: Re: Team3S: Y-pipe Availability

I prefer the alamo pipe.
I think it's $289

At 06:32 PM 3/3/02 +0100, Roger Gerl wrote:
>GT PRO y-pipe is made of aluminum ! It's pricey but the best you can get on
>the market.
>
> > Is GT-Pro the only custom y-pipe provider?  $350 seems a bit steep for
>what
> > your getting.

***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***

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Date: Sun, 3 Mar 2002 11:21:23 -0800 (PST)
From: Geoff Mohler <gemohler@www.speedtoys.com>
Subject: Re: Team3S: California Smog Question

Aftermarket cat-backs are totally legal.

On Sun, 3 Mar 2002, dakken wrote:

> This question is meant for members that live in California.  Have any of you
> passed smog check 2 with an aftermarket exhaust on your car?  If so which
> one?
>
> Doug
> 92 Stealth RT TT

Geoff Mohler

***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***

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Date: Sun, 3 Mar 2002 11:42:46 -0800
From: "fastmax" <fastmax@cox.net>
Subject: Re: Team3S: California Smog Question

I'm not sure what you mean by smog check 2 [ dyno run ??? maybe ].
As an AWD car we don't go on the dyno, they use a tailpipe sniffer like
the good old days.

As Geoff mentioned you can do anything you want after the cat and you
can replace the cat with aftermarket one if yours was defective and you
replace it with one that has a CARB certification. You cannot, of course,
legally gut the precats but it will pass if the system is hot. You cannot alter
any of the system from the turbos to the end of the cat --- that assumes
you take it to a shop that know what to look for. I took mine to Pep Boys
and he didn't have a clue as to what the car should look like --- this was
the first Stealth that he'd done. When I get all my mods in [ ARC ll, 720's
368's etc. etc ] I'm going to take it back there and see if I can get it
passed without pulling a bunch of stuff.

        Jim Berry
==============================================

- ----- Original Message -----
From: "dakken" <dougusmagnus@attbi.com>


> This question is meant for members that live in California.  Have any of you
> passed smog check 2 with an aftermarket exhaust on your car?  If so which
> one?
>
> Doug
> 92 Stealth RT TT

***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***

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Date: Sun, 3 Mar 2002 14:19:00 -0600
From: "Jannusch, Matt" <mjannusch@marketwatch.com>
Subject: Team3S: Front Strut Tower Bars

Just an FYI, Cusco is making front bars for our cars.  They are available
from Alamo Motorsports.  $121.44.

- -Matt
'95 3000GT Spyder VR4

***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***

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Date: Sun, 3 Mar 2002 14:23:49 -0600
From: "xwing" <xwing@wi.rr.com>
Subject: Team3S: Re: what is the optimum a/f reading at WOT?  how to hook up?

I agree with Roger.
DSM's run as low as .85(!) from some conversations I've had, but .88 is
considered "FAST safe" by most of them.

In my 94, I broke a piston at 0.96 with the minimal 50hp NOS jet, on 116
octane gas (octane was not the problem), when I was using the ARCII that
leads to more timing advance than the VPC setup.

Previously with the VPC, I was seeing 1.02-1.04 with no large amounts of
black smoke; and it also took 100hp of nitrous without breaking...but VPC
got upset on upshifts, so I switched to the ARCII.

I think .96 is safe no NOS for us, and if you have datalogging/knock sensor
data/EGT ability you can lean it out more but your results may vary :)
Jack T.

From: "Roger Gerl" <roger.gerl@bluewin.ch
> 0.92 without knock. 0.94-0.96 if knock is present.
> Roger
> 93'3000GT TT   www.rtec.ch

***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***

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Date: Sun, 03 Mar 2002 15:43:14 -0500
From: "Philip V. Glazatov" <gphilip@umich.edu>
Subject: Re: Team3S: California Smog Question

What about aftermarket intercooler pipes or even FMIC? This would be a huge
eye sore. Are they illegal too?

Philip

At 02:42 PM 3/3/2002, fastmax wrote:
>When I get all my mods in [ ARC ll, 720's
>368's etc. etc ] I'm going to take it back there and see if I can get it
>passed without pulling a bunch of stuff.

***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***

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Date: Sun, 3 Mar 2002 13:10:12 -0800 (PST)
From: Geoff Mohler <gemohler@www.speedtoys.com>
Subject: Re: Team3S: California Smog Question

It might cause someone to look harder, but by themselves they dont make
you illegal.

On Sun, 3 Mar 2002, Philip V. Glazatov wrote:

> What about aftermarket intercooler pipes or even FMIC? This would be a huge
> eye sore. Are they illegal too?
>
> Philip
>
> At 02:42 PM 3/3/2002, fastmax wrote:
> >When I get all my mods in [ ARC ll, 720's
> >368's etc. etc ] I'm going to take it back there and see if I can get it
> >passed without pulling a bunch of stuff.

Geoff Mohler

***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***

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Date: Sun, 3 Mar 2002 15:25:25 -0600
From: "Todd D.Shelton" <tds@brightok.net>
Subject: Re: Team3S: Front Strut Tower Bars

- -----Original Message-----
From: Jannusch, Matt <mjannusch@marketwatch.com>
To: team3/S <team3S@stealth-3000gt.st>
Date: Sunday, March 03, 2002 2:20 PM
Subject: Team3S: Front Strut Tower Bars

>Just an FYI, Cusco is making front bars for our cars.  They are available
>from Alamo Motorsports.  $121.44.

- --------------------------------------------------

Talk about a day late and a dollar short!

Where were they 7 or 8 years ago when
we were all SCREAMING for front
strut bars?!

Now that our very own have gone
to the trouble and expense of
building and selling their
own front bars now Cusco
comes along with front bars?!

I figure not long after Paul
builds the rear adjustable
control arm for rear camber
adjustment Cusco or
some other big name will
decide to offer theirs ......

Sorry .... I get tired of this
cycle we have come to see.

We ask, beg, plead, request parts
for years on end and get nothing.
We aren't worth the trouble they say ....

Then one of our own car owners
gets tired of waiting for nothing, does
the R&D to produce their own and
*then* a "Cusco" or whoever comes
along with theirs. (years later from the
initial demand)

I've already got a front bar (after waiting
about 7 years) from one of our owners but
if I didn't I wouldn't buy a Cusco over the
others now available.

- - tds - vent! :)
http://www.brightok.net/~tds

***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***

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Date: Sun, 3 Mar 2002 18:52:22 -0700
From: "Moe Prasad" <mprasad01@earthlink.net>
Subject: Team3S: Size of the clamp needed for stock Y-Pipe

What size T-Clamp should I buy from Summit Racing for my stock Y-pipe?

http://store.summitracing.com/default.asp?target=%2Fproduct%2Easp%3Fp%3D3986
%26searchtype%3Decat

Rgds
Moe

***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***

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Date: Sun, 3 Mar 2002 19:58:08 -0700
From: "Thomas Jeys" <tj@jeys.net>
Subject: Team3S: Cross Drilled and Slotted Front Rotors

Good deal on a pair of cross drilled and slotted rotors if anyone is
interested.

http://cgi.aol.ebay.com/ebaymotors/aw-cgi/ebayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=180878
3546&r=0&t=0

T.J. 1992 3000GT VR-4
tj@jeys.net

***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***

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Date: Mon, 04 Mar 2002 00:22:09 -0500
From: "Philip V. Glazatov" <gphilip@umich.edu>
Subject: Team3S: Hesitation ;-)

I thought that I would never bother the list with the famous "hesitation"
question, but what the heck, here it is! Maybe I will hear something
besides replace the spark plugs.

I got those high torque numbers today in the cold 25F weather - 358 ft-lbs
@3700 rpm but not the high HP readings which should have followed - only
320 hp @5440 rpm . The car was feeling funny at mid-range rpm during
acceleration. It would pull hard and then it would hit some kind of soft
limiter and then it would pull normally again. It was hitting 15 psi at the
moment when it was pulling hard as measured by my aftermarket boost gauge.
I do not have any datalogging on my '95 car. My guess is that it was either
some knock and the resulting ignition retardation, or a little fuel cut at
4000 rpm (is this even possible on a stock car at this rpm?) It could also
be the active intake switching. Or there might be something wrong with the
engine. I might have to do my 60K service early because there is often some
squeal coming from the belts-water pump area, especially at idle. It is
time to change the spark plugs too.

Any ideas what that "hesitation" might be?

Philip
'95 Red R/T TT

***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***

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Date: Mon, 04 Mar 2002 00:21:27 -0500
From: "Philip V. Glazatov" <gphilip@umich.edu>
Subject: Team3S: Street Dyno rocks!

I tried a Street Dyno today http://www.tweecer.com/StreetDyno. This thing
really works. I recorded eight runs and they averaged 320 hp @5440 rpm and
358 ft-lbs @3700 rpm.

I did not have to fudge any numbers to come up with the 320 HP. I have a
stock car (enjoying its last few stock days) and I used 26% drivetrain loss
as determined by Joe G. and the other guys who went to Chicago in January
to dyno their cars. I also used an SAE correction factor of 0.936 because
this is what came with the program.

As I wrote earlier I gave up on the Road Dyno since I was not able to
record a single normal WOT run with it. The Street Dyno, on the other hand,
works great - I could run it all day and not get a single bad run because I
can tweak all the parameters that it uses to read the input wave files. The
wave files are cool too once you figure out what they are. I was skeptical
at first but once I figured out how to read them I realized how accurate
and repeatable they are. If you know how to read them correctly it is then
very hard to misinterpret them or set software parameters incorrectly.

And no one can beat the price - $12! There is a free normal operational
beta version of Road Dyno software available on the Road Dyno website and a
forever-trial version of a sound recording software GoldWave at
goldwave.com. The only thing is that you have to make your own "voltage
divider". One resistor, one potentiometer, an audio cable, alligator clips
and a project box - all available at RadioShack for $12 total. It is also
best to use a laptop in the car as a recorder to cut down on unnecessary
data transfer.

Philip
'95 Red R/T TT

***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***

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Date: Mon, 4 Mar 2002 18:44:56 +1300
From: "Steve Cooper" <scooper@paradise.net.nz>
Subject: Re: Team3S: Japan and Euro CAPS needed

Japan and Euro CAPS needed

What info do you need?

Steve

***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***

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Date: Mon, 04 Mar 2002 07:08:38 +0000
From: apedenko@attbi.com
Subject: Team3S: Double Clutching

Okay, I've heard this term thrown around a lot (double
clutching) - could somebody please explain to me what
that is and how to do it?

  Thanks,

    Alex.

***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***

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Date: Fri, 1 Mar 2002 18:44:59 -0600
From: "Eric Cheek" <echeek@cox-internet.com>
Subject: RE: Team3S: Fog Light bulb replacement

Dude its easy ;) .... there is a "cap" in the rear of the foglight that must
be twisted 45 degrees counterclockwise and removed. Then the lamp is held
with a spring that must be pushed up or down don't recall. Anyhow took me
about 30 minutes the first time and I didn't have to remove a single screw.

Eric C. 92 VR4

- -----Original Message-----
From: owner-team3s@team3s.com [mailto:owner-team3s@team3s.com]On Behalf
Of Thomas Jeys
Sent: Thursday, February 28, 2002 8:54 PM
To: Team 3s
Subject: RE:Team3S: Fog Light bulb replacement

Okay,

Mitsubishi lighting engineers are idiots.  You know what I mean if you've
ever tried to change the bulb of one of the 1g popup type headlights.  And
now I'm getting the wonderful experience of trying to change the fog light
bulb.  What a pain!!  As best I can see, the whole front of the car has to
come off!  The plastic piece on the front of the car has about 90 screws or
bolts holding it on, as I see it only about 15 of them are necessary.  Has
anyone else tried this?  Am I missing something very obvious?

T.J. 1992 3000GT VR-4
tj@jeys.net

PS: Does it seem like mitsubishi has "special" engineers day?  Have the good
engineers come in and design the engine then have the morons design
everything else?

***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***

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Date: Mon, 4 Mar 2002 03:24:27 EST
From: Merlin916@aol.com
Subject: Re: Team3S: Double Clutching

Double clutching is simple.  When you go to downshift , say from 4th to 3rd,
youre simply shifting to netral and then matching revs before shifting into
3rd.  Step by step, its clutch from 4th to neutral, tap the gas while in
neutral and off the clutch to match revs, then engage the clutch, get into
third and get off the clutch before the revs drop.  This can also be done in
unison with heel and toe if youre breaking as well.  Double clutching is most
commonly used on an unsyncronized transmission, because there are no syncros
to match the revs for you.  Its useful becasue it wears the syncros less, and
on turbos it allows the turbo to spool up before you actually get into gear.

Joe
93 RT/TT
02 WRX

***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***

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End of Team3S: 3000GT & Stealth V1 #771
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