Team3S: 3000GT & Stealth Friday, March 1
2002 Volume 01 : Number
769
----------------------------------------------------------------------
Date:
Thu, 28 Feb 2002 20:36:44 -0800
From: "Ken Middaugh" <
kmiddaugh@ixpres.com>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: Resealing 2nd Gen Tranny
I developed a leak from my tranny
once. It turned out that I lost the
"plug" on the side of the tranny
towards the right wheel. A mechanic
installed a new plug, stuck some
goop on it so it wouldn't fall out again,
and the leak was fixed. I
hope yours is as simple.
Good luck,
Ken
'91 VR4
- -----
Original Message -----
From: "John Stegall III" <
jstegall@programmer.net>
To:
<
Team3S@stealth-3000gt.st>
Sent:
Wednesday, February 27, 2002 11:02 PM
Subject: Team3S: Resealing 2nd Gen
Tranny
> I've got 70k on my car, still original tranny. The
tranny shifts like
butter, but the leak that was really small has gotten
progressively worse in
the past couple of days, and I noticed a nice big
puddle underneath my
parking spot today when I left work. I haven't the
foggiest clue how I'd go
about resealing the tranny myself, but can anyone on
the list tell me, what
a good price is for resealing the tranny with
replacement parts from Kormex?
Also, while I've got the mechanic down there,
is there anything else I
should have replaced? Thanks
guys.
>
> John
> 1994 3000GT VR-4 (leaky
tranny)
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 28 Feb 2002 20:56:05
-0800
From: "Ken Middaugh" <
kmiddaugh@ixpres.com>
Subject:
Team3S: Optima, was: Anyone have any complaints about the
dynabatt?
My local Costco has been stocking Optima Red Tops for
about $99 for the
last six months. Pretty good price!
> I
bought the smaller Optima Red Top last week (650 CCA or maybe it was
> the
850 CCA) for about $110 at Pep Boys.
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 28 Feb 2002 21:02:05
-0800
From: "Ken Middaugh" <
kmiddaugh@ixpres.com>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: turbo spooling, too slow?
Well, this is the spoolup I was hoping
for (15psi at 3000 RPM). Do you
think the TEC 15G turbos have better
bearings than the Mitsu 13G, or is my
stock downpipe, exhaust, and/or the
original cat with 133K miles the likely
culprit to my slow spoolup?
-
----- Original Message -----
From: "Jeff Lucius" <
stealthman92@yahoo.com>
To: "Ken
Middaugh" <
kmiddaugh@ixpres.com>; <
Team3S@stealth-3000gt.st>
Sent:
Wednesday, February 27, 2002 7:13 AM
Subject: Re: Team3S: turbo spooling, too
slow?
> Ken,
>
> I recently performed two roll-on
acceleration tests here in Colorado
> (12 psi atm, cool day) with my TEC
15G turbos (engine mods listed at
> my web site). Starting at a 2000 RPM
cruising speed I floored it in
> 2nd gear and then in 3rd gear. In both
gears, by 3000 RPM boost was
> limited by the BC to about 16 psi. I am not
sure at what RPM "max
> boost" could be achieved with my setup under these
test conditions,
> but 15 psi was easily achieved by 3000
RPM.
>
> There is no "break-in" period for turbos that I am aware of
that will
> affect "spool up".
>
>
http://www.geocities.com/lutransys/jlucius5/j5-2-3s-compflowmaps.htm>
http://www.geocities.com/lutransys/jlucius2/j2-2-turboguide.htm***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 1 Mar 2002 00:42:45
-0600
From: "xwing" <
xwing@wi.rr.com>
Subject: Team3S: My
Record Pass in Question.
I'm upset.
Darren Schilberg has a technical
argument that my record passes should be
forgotten, don't count, and says
"other folks" might question them, so I
guess I better talk about this out in
the open.
Darren Schilberg has seen fit to write me a letter, which he
refused to let
me reprint verbatim, indicating that my record passes are
"skeptical at
best". (I never figured out why I can't do whatever I
please with a letter
GIVEN TO ME, which is now in my possession, my
property. Cite me Wisconsin
law.)
Given his lack of the
courage of his convictions to allow a reprint, I will
paraphrase it--and LET
SOMEBODY MEET ME IN COURT NOW if they can't handle
it:
-
----------------------------
Darren indicated:
'Rumor has it you made
a ten second pass on a track in Wisconsin. I
thought 11.00 or
better required a a rollbar and perhaps a helmet. If you
ran an 11.xx
then a 10.9x you might get away with it, but that is your one
free
pass. If you do it again and don't have a rollbar usually the
timeslip
is ripped up, you are kicked out, and the time doesn't count.
So if those
10second ET's were your first passes they are skeptical at
best. If they're
after a series of 10.99 or better runs then I think
they shouldn't count
since it is against dragstrip rules.'
-
----------------------------
I was trying to figure out what dark corner of
Darren's mind this came out
of; he sure is trying to find some technicality
to crap on my record. I
will answer it in 2 ways, first all rule-sy so
Darren can chew on it and
come up with several arguments why he's right as
always...and then with some
feeling.
1) My records are not
"Rumor", they are fact. I have the timeslips. I
turned an 11.303
in front of everybody at the 1997 DSM Shootout 16 May 1997
with NO nitrous;
then just 2 weeks later, did a 10.89 and 10.81 at Great
Lakes Dragaway in
Wisconsin, also in front of big crowds. Can I name
witnesses to say
they saw it? Yes, but the most important witness, who I
RACED AGAINST
THAT PASS, can't testify. I will tell you who that is, later
on.
Now Darren probably figures he's "really got me"--no
eyewitnesses...?!?
Yes, some tracks and sanctioning bodies (NHRA)
required in 1997 a rollbar
for 11.99 or better ET's, and TO SET AN OFFICIAL
NHRA SANCTIONED RECORD you
have to have it. My record is not
recognized by NHRA, it is just something
I _DID_. How many 3S "record
runs" ARE officially sanctioned by the NHRA,
IHRA, IDRA etc? I bet alot
of you even DRIVE to the track, and ELSEWHERE,
without FULL SMOG EQUIPMENT,
which is totally ILLEGAL!
YOW!! Sounds like we have no records at all,
then. Ridiculous, IMHO.
I made 3 passes on June 3, 1997; first=15.963 @
57.47mph; I shut it down.
2nd=10.892 @ 123.16 and got warned to "slow it
down"; 3rd=10.810 @ 128.44.
After that pass, the timeslip lady said with a
smile "That's it for the
night" and I left with a BIG smile myself!
BTW, I had "Peggy" the ET Shack
lady SIGN the back of my 10.89 slip "Car did
run the time, ET Shack Peggy,
10.89" in case some jerk challenged me on
it. At the TIME, I thought I was
going overboard a little, but HERE WE
ARE! Those are the FACTS, and I have
it ON PAPER. Thanks,
Darren. My faith in humanity takes another hit.
2) Now I'll
defend my record with some feeling.
To have my record, recognized for almost
5 years, challenged by DARREN
SCHILBERG, is insulting. There have been
plenty of witnesses to my car, my
driving, my modifications, and my knowledge
base. He gets a "rollbar", goes
on some tracks, and he's all over the
place telling people how to drive,
what to put in their car, HOW to put it in
their car, and not infrequently
in a condescending manner from what I've seen
(and never commented on until
he comes at ME.)
Darren, the Decaffeinated
is JUST AS GOOD as the Real Thing these days...try
it.
I said before
that I had a witness to my 10.810 pass on June 3, 1997. I
said he can't
testify. I don't think about this too often because it is
personal and
it hurts. I had to look his website up again because it
was
moved.
http://www.dougb.com/jeff/0.htmlJeff
Curtis was from the Chicago area, and had a beautiful Stealth TT that
he
raced often, including with me at Union Grove Dragaway. Well, on
the
best pass I ever made, Jeff Curtis was in the other lane racing me.
He did
a 13.781 @ 98.5 mph, his best ET that day; I did the best pass in
a
Mitsubishi I have ever had, 10.810 @ 128.44. He had the other copy of
that
timeslip. I had freaked out later that year because I couldn't
find my
copy; he was willing to give me his, but then I found my original so
thanked
him for the thought.
He DIED in early 1998, the victim of an
asshole drunk driver who caused a
wreck. He wasn't driving his Stealth,
and God help me if he was I bet he'd
still be here. Alot of us knew him
to varying degrees, and we won't forget.
THAT is part of the reason I am just
sickened by DARREN SCHILBERG casting
doubts and poison about that DAY and
that RACE. I will not have the memory
of that race, and the record it
set, ruined.
Weird, a little...I'm not superstitious, but sometimes I
think about Jeff
from that day, he was there with his girlfriend as I recall;
we talked about
our cars and our hopes...I think we both sort of pushed each
other to do
better that day, and sometimes it just feels like Jeff was in
that race with
me, like I got a little push from him mentally or something,
and there was
MY best pass, and HIS best of day. We were so
stoked! It sort of seems
like OUR record, just in my own mind
anyway, because that timeslip ties me
to that day and that race and my
memories of him. Weird, I haven't raced
that 93 VR4 since 1997 for
various reasons, yet here we are, almost 5 years
later and THAT PASS ALONE
still stands, holds record!
http://www.dougb.com/jeff/cars/racing/060397/Thanks,
Jeff. Miss you, dude.
I'll probably get beaten out; maybe my cars won't
cooperate; but I dedicate
my 2002 year of racing to Jeff Curtis.
Rest in
peace...or better yet, get those tracks up there good and ready for
the rest
of us...
I might never get a good pass all year long, but I'll try; and
I'll
remember.
Jack Tertadian
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 01 Mar 2002 10:13:48
+0100
From: Roger Gerl <
roger.gerl@bluewin.ch>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Rollcage needed ?? Was : My Record Pass in
Question.
Guys, please keep that as professional as possible ... no
flames allowed !
I don't know the rules at all and I guess it depends in
what class you run
and this then needs maybe a roll cage. So can someone
explain this please ?
If it is true that 10 sec passes are only allowed with
roll cages then
others timeslips must be trashed too. I don't know how much
weight such a
cage adds to the car but maybe it hinders the car from going
into the 10s
then. I doubpt that when I will drive to a local track in
Germany and run a
11s pass that this will under any NHRA or whatever rules
at all. although
some international races are held there. Please enlighten
me ... If I ever
make it to a track, I don't want to be called a looser due
to the lack of a
rollcage. BTW, I'd always run with a helmet on the track
!
Roger
93'3000GT TT
www.rtec.chPS: IMHO this car run great ;-)
and. yes ... I remember the loss of Jeff
... was a sad, sad day
!!!
snips
> Yes, some tracks and sanctioning bodies
(NHRA) required in 1997 a rollbar
>for 11.99 or better ET's, and TO SET AN
OFFICIAL NHRA SANCTIONED RECORD you
>have to have it. My
record is not recognized by NHRA, it is just something
>I _DID_. How
many 3S "record runs" ARE officially sanctioned by the NHRA,
>IHRA, IDRA
etc? I bet alot of you even DRIVE to the track, and
ELSEWHERE,
>without FULL SMOG EQUIPMENT, which is totally
ILLEGAL!
snip
>lady SIGN the back of my 10.89 slip "Car did run
the time, ET Shack Peggy,
>10.89" in case some jerk challenged me on
it.
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 01 Mar 2002 10:17:15
+0100
From: Roger Gerl <
roger.gerl@bluewin.ch>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Anyone have any complaints about the dynabatt?
>2. Roger,
what exactly is the "Euro-warning" for (what rating or
>specification)?
The reserve capacity of the Dyna-Batt is less than
>most batteries, but
this is only important if the alternator is not
>on or working (such as
failed alternator or engine turned off). The
>crank rating exceeds typical
wet cell batteries.
I called a local dealer and asked for the prices
(that are crazy by the
way). He then asked for what purpose it shoudl be and
what size the engine
is. Upon my information he told me the recommendations
of the importing
company and he said that the batt is good for small cars
and as an
addon-batt for stereo apps in the car.
I'll probably go
with the Orange top as it is within the Red and
Yellow.
Roger
93'3000GT TT
www.rtec.ch*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 01 Mar 2002 10:21:29
+0100
From: Roger Gerl <
roger.gerl@bluewin.ch>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: Anyone have any complaints about the dynabatt?
At 09:50
28.02.2002 -0500, Darren Schilberg wrote:
>I think the Optima Red (Auto)
and Yellow (Marine) are both deep-cycle
>batteries meaning they can go to
absolutely no charge and recover
>without damage.
Unfortunately,
the red top goes bad after about 3 deepcycles :(( My
experience :-( The
Yellow top is the deep cycle battery and also more
expensive.
There
is now an Orange top battery for Europe and it's a red top with about
10-15
deep cycle feature. Price is less as tehy want compete with the local
manufacturers.
I bought the smaller Optima Red Top last
week
>the 850 CCA) for about $110 at Pep Boys.
It was the 1050
that went bad. The 850 in the Camaro is still ok :-)
Roger
93'3000GT
TT
www.rtec.ch*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 1 Mar 2002 04:52:32
-0800
From: "Bob Forrest" <
bf@bobforrest.com>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: Rollcage needed ?? Was : My Record Pass in Question
-
----- Original Message -----
From: "Roger Gerl" <
roger.gerl@bluewin.ch>
> Guys,
please keep that as professional as possible ... no flames allowed !
> I
don't know the rules at all and I guess it depends in what class you run
and
this then needs maybe a roll cage. So can someone explain this please ?
If it
is true that 10 sec passes are only allowed with roll cages then
others
timeslips must be trashed too. I don't know how much weight such a
cage adds
to the car but maybe it hinders the car from going into the 10s
then. I doubt
that when I will drive to a local track in Germany and run a
11s pass that
this will under any NHRA or whatever rules at all. although
some
international races are held there. Please enlighten me ... If I ever
make it
to a track, I don't want to be called a loser due to the lack of a
rollcage.
BTW, I'd always run with a helmet on the track !
> Roger
> 93'3000GT
TT
>
www.rtec.ch-
---------------------------
Hey, Roger, and all,
It's really up to
the track operator (or whoever is "running the show" at
the time) to refuse
to allow fast (<12sec) cars to run without a rollbar or
cage. But
even though many tracks "say" that in their rules, not all of
them insist on
it. That's even more true during "test and tune" days, when
things are
more casual. They may or may not ban a fast car from running
without
proper "suggested" equipment. But only NHRA and other major org's
make
it a strict "requirement". Even though a car that was expected to
run
under 12 sec was allowed to run without recommended equipment, it
doesn't
change the fact of the time run, nor in any way negate the
record. Nor
should it, IMO.
ADMIN NOTE: Roger, and I, and
the rest of the Admins think it's highly
inappropriate to mount such a hollow
and aggressive challenge against
another member's well-established record
simply to have something to do.
We're ending this "discussion" here on the
Team3S list, and we're not going
to continue it on our (slightly more
relaxed) 3SRacers list, either. We
don't permit flames or BS or
chat. And we resent attempts by anyone to make
antagonistic statements
to other members simply to generate a volatile
discussion. To goad
another Team3S member into responding in defense of an
empty allegation is
pretty low. It won't be permitted now, or ever.
Forrest, for the
Admins
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 1 Mar 2002 10:54:01
-0500
From: "Berrios, Victor L CIV" <
VLBerrios@rroads.med.navy.mil>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: M&S Recycling
I have deal with them before with very good
experiences. I think someone
already ask this question a few weeks ago. If
you search in the archives
you're going to find more
input/recommendations.
So far, an excellent resource for our cars.
Hope this help to your decisions.
Victor
'96 Pearl White
VR-4
- -----Original Message-----
From: John Stegall III
[mailto:jstegall@programmer.net]
Sent: Thursday, February 28, 2002 7:00
AM
To:
Team3S@stealth-3000gt.stSubject:
Team3S: M&S Recycling
Has anyone here done any work with M&S
Recycling? They're a scrap yard here
in Pomona, Ca and they specialize
in ONLY DSMs and 3000GTs/Stealths, it's
all they carry. I've gone to
the yard twice now and they have tons of of
our cars, N/A and turbo. I
get an email from them everytime they get in a
new 3000GT/Stealth, and they
seem to have a lot of cars that are quite
complete. I've seen a few
pairs of ball bearing turbos amongst quite a
number of other parts that I've
thought about taking a look if they're in
good condition and the price is
right, vs buying new. Just wondering if
anyone on the list has done any
business with them and if their prices are
decent and if they're
reputable. Thanks.
John
1994 3000GT VR-4
***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 1 Mar 2002 09:22:48
-0600
From: "Morice, Francis" <
francis.morice@retek.com>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: General dragstrip knowledge (was: RE: My Record Pass in
Question.)
Darren,
The rules at the track we (MN3s) go to are
basically, if you go faster than
14.0, then no passenger, always wear a
helmet even if you are in the 20's,
and anything under 11.99 you are required
to have a roll cage of some sort.
Convertibles are not generally allowed
unless you have a roll cage as well,
although they must of never heard of a
VR-4 Spyder since Matt J. has never
been called on it. They are very serious
about this at Rock Falls (Wis),
they will check your car out after a sub 12
run and if no cage, you are on
your way home, no warnings. I have seen them
do it.
Just what I have seen.
Francis
'96 RT/TT
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 1 Mar 2002 07:32:28
-0800 (PST)
From: Jeff Lucius <
stealthman92@yahoo.com>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: turbo spooling, too slow?
In 1998, TEC only replaced the 13G
impeller on my new MHI 13G turbos
with the 15G impeller. The 13G center
section, including bearings,
and exhaust section are otherwise unchanged. The
only difference
between MHI 13G and TEC 15G are the impellers (and any
associated
machining).
There really should be minimal spool-up
differences between the 13G
and 15G turbos, assuming the 13G is the factory
Mitsu sport turbo
upgrade and not a 9B with a 13G impeller.
The
slightly "lower" surge line of the 13G impeller/housing and the
slightly
lower moment of inertia (mass) of the 13G impeller will tend
to reduce the
13G turbo transient response compared to the 15G turbo
(meaning the 13G may
both spool slightly faster and generate
boost/flow slightly faster than the
15G). The 13G impeller also has
better efficiency than the 15G up to certain
flow/boost combinations.
http://www.geocities.com/lutransys/jlucius5/j5-2-3s-compflowmaps.htmA
source of poor spool-up can be the boost controller. **As an
experiment
only**, prevent air pressure from reaching the wastegates
(a clamp on the
Y-pipe reference hose works). This will take the BC
out of the loop (so to
speak). Using your accel pedal to control
boost level, observe RPM and boost
relationships. If you are still
not hitting 15 psi by 3000 RPM (in a WOT
roll-on from 2000 RPM in 2nd
or 3rd gear), you could take a look at the stock
cat to see if it is
clogged. (It will look clogged; so you will need to
devise a way to
flow air through it while simultaneously measuring pressure
at inlet
and outlet; or just buy a $200, new, high-flow cat). As you
already
know, improved pre-cats, and better-flowing DP, main cat,
and
cat-back can greatly reduce exhaust restrictions.
Also, don't
rule out:
1) A wastegate or wastegate actuator malfunction of some
sort
("leaks"),
or
2) A leak in the IC system. A simple pressure test
can check the
intake track for most (but not all) types of leaks.
http://www.geocities.com/lutransys/jlucius3/j3-2-pressuretester.htmHope
this helps,
Jeff Lucius,
http://www.stealth316.com/- -----
Original Message -----
From: "Ken Middaugh" <
kmiddaugh@ixpres.com>
To: "Jeff
Lucius" <
stealthman92@yahoo.com>;
<
Team3S@stealth-3000gt.st>
Sent:
Thursday, February 28, 2002 10:02 PM
Subject: Re: Team3S: turbo spooling, too
slow?
Well, this is the spoolup I was hoping for (15psi at 3000
RPM). Do
you think the TEC 15G turbos have better bearings than the
Mitsu 13G,
or is my stock downpipe, exhaust, and/or the original cat with
133K
miles the likely culprit to my slow spoolup?
- ----- Original
Message -----
From: "Jeff Lucius" <
stealthman92@yahoo.com>
To: "Ken
Middaugh" <
kmiddaugh@ixpres.com>; <
Team3S@stealth-3000gt.st>
Sent:
Wednesday, February 27, 2002 7:13 AM
Subject: Re: Team3S: turbo spooling, too
slow?
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 1 Mar 2002 09:53:03
-0600
From: "Jannusch, Matt" <
mjannusch@marketwatch.com>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: General dragstrip knowledge
> The rules at the track we
(MN3s) go to are basically, if you
> go faster than 14.0, then no
passenger, always wear a helmet
> even if you are in the 20's, and
anything under 11.99 you are
> required to have a roll cage of some
sort.
I'm not sure I have this totally right, but I think you can go
without a
helmet if you are slower than 13.999 at most NHRA tracks. I
guess they
figure you are going too slow to really mash up your head in an
accident.
Helmet:
13.999 and lower
Convertible Rollbar: 13.999 and
lower
Rollcage in all cars: 11.999 and lower
I think those are
NHRA regulations, so if you go to an NHRA track they'll
usually adhere to
those rules. If it is IHRA or NIRA or IDRA 1or whatever,
then it goes
with their rules, which I think are pretty similar. If the
track is
somehow independent then it is whatever agreement they have with
their
insurance company.
Those rules are sometimes suspended for "special
events" - like if you rent
the track for a day and provide your own insurance
for your event.
> Convertibles are not generally allowed unless you
have a
> roll cage as well, although they must of never heard of
> a
VR-4 Spyder since Matt J. has never been called on it.
I suspect I'll get
called on it this year at some point. Hopefully not
until I get an
11-second run. ;-)
- -Matt
'95 3000GT Spyder
VR4
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 1 Mar 2002 09:54:37
-0600
From: "Black, Dave (ICT)" <
dblai@allstate.com>
Subject: RE:
Team3S: Exhaust options
Wow, well that has certainly been increased in
the last 4 months. I bought
mine form them in October 2001 and the
price was $540 shipped. I don't
remember that it was a special sale - I
thought it was their everday price.
If someone is interested, I would
maybe call and ask.
I know that Jegs.com used to sell them several years
ago for about $499.
They have them now for $637.99 (part 157-15443).
How times change!
Dave 95VR4
http://www.daveblack.net>
-----Original Message-----
> From: Gil Gomes [SMTP:gil@3kgt.com]
>
Sent: Wednesday, February 27, 2002 5:49 PM
> To: Team3s (E-mail)
>
Subject: Re: Team3S: Exhaust options
>
>
> Interesting...
I'm on
http://www.nopionline.com right
now and I'm seeing
> the
> Twin Turbo Borla CatBack system for sale
at $749.43. What am I missing?
> -Gil
>
>
> > As
far as the best price on the Borla, I know that Carparts had them for
>
a
> > while for $550 or so. When JC Whitney took them over they
had stopped
> > selling the Borla. I'm not sure if they are
selling them anymore.
> >
> > The cheapest price I have seen
on the Borla is $540 shipped from Nopi
> Online
> > -
http://www.nopionline.com. They had
them all in stock too. I have
> done
> a
> > lot of
shopping around for that price. I think that is their everday
>
price.
> >
> > Dave 95VR4
> >
http://www.daveblack.net>
>
> > > -----Original Message-----
> > > From:
apedenko@attbi.com
[SMTP:apedenko@attbi.com]
> > > Sent: Wednesday, February 27, 2002
2:13 PM
> > > To:
team3s@team3s.com> > > Subject:
Team3S: Exhaust options
> > >
> > > Two questions,
really:
> > >
> > > 1. Can someone please explain to the
me the difference
> > > between test pipes that sell on e-bay for
~$30 and
> > > the "PreCat eliminator kit" from DR that sells
for
> > > $500? Aren't they the same thing?
> >
>
> > > 2. For of you that have shopped around, how much
(and
> > > where) is a good price for a stillen dp and a
borla
> > > catback (vr4). The prices I've seen are around 300
for
> > > the DP and around 700 for the catback. Is that any
good?
> > >
> > > Also, is it possible to pass illinois
smoging w/o
> > > precats/main cat?
> > >
> >
> Alex.
> > > '95 VR4
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 1 Mar 2002 08:44:22
-0800
From: Chris Winkley <
cwinkley@plaza.ds.adp.com>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: Rollcage needed?? Was: My Record Pass in
Question
Folks...
I'll second the comments from Bob and
Roger...please keep this list
professional and flame free!!!
From my
own perspective, the rules under discussion vary from track to
track. Even
where they are written, they are often not enforced. I
personally have run
12s here in Oregon without my helmet on. I have every
intention of breaking
into the 11s this year, but have been told that a roll
cage (not just
rollbar...meaning six point, not four point or two point) is
"required" when
running below the 11.00 mark. Again, though, four things
happen:
1.
They ask you what time you're planning on running. Simple enough, you
predict
the 12s.
2. If you run under the 11s, they may or may not kick you off the
track for
the day.
3. Regardless of whether you get kicked off the track,
a timeslip is a
timeslip. I personally have never entered any of the NHRA
rated class drags
so it makes no difference if they log the time in some
book. What I have
(and Jack T has) is the slip that PROVES how I performed on
a given day.
4. None of the above prevents you from coming back another day
and repeating
the same steps. I suppose that, at some point, they might come
to recognize
me, and the pattern, but I'm not worried about that. I'll be
MORE than happy
to have a timeslip in my possession that matches the number
on my windshield
(I'll be sure to take a photo for those who doubt)
indicating my time.
Now, a technical question. Has anyone ever used a wet
nitrous system on
their car? It seems this combines the value gained by water
injection, along
with the boost of nitrous. Given the number of miles I drive
my car (10K in
five years), I'm considering adding a wet nitrous system.
Suggestions???
Looking forward...Chris (Team3S Admin)
1995 Glacier
Pearl White VR4 (w/custom K&N intake, bored and polished
throttle body,
TEC 15G turbos, RC 560cc injectors, HKS fuel pump, ARC2/MAF
fuel controller,
Split Second A/F meter, GReddy PRofec A boost controller,
Apex EGT &
boost gauges, GReddy turbo timer, HKS SBOV, custom intercoolers,
Odyssey dry
cell battery, Magnecore 8.5mm wires, NGK double platinum plugs
gapped at
.032", ACT 2800 lb pressure plate, Broward six puck racing disc,
Centerforce
throwout bearing, ATR downpipe and test pipe, GReddy catback
exhaust, Stillen
cross-drilled rotors, Porterfield R4 race pads, SS brake
lines, Eibach 1"
drop progressive springs, Michelin SX MXX3 Pilots)
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 1 Mar 2002 09:43:05
-0800
From: "ek2mfg" <
ek2mfg@foxinternet.com>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: General dragstrip knowledge (was: RE: My Record Pass in
Question.)
A friend of mine runs an S2000....ran into problems with the
stock
roll bar all the time but when he came with his hard top he was
never
questioned....
bobk.
93r/t
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 1 Mar 2002 14:21:36
-0800
From: "Gross, Erik" <
erik.gross@intel.com>
Subject:
Team3S: MAP Sensor Works (finally)
First of all, a big thanks to Roger
(Gerl) for saving my sanity...
I installed a General Motors 3-bar MAP
sensor for use with my ERL water
injection system and the signal wire did sat
at +0V, no matter what the
pressure reading was. I was not happy.
I got my wiring diagram from the
following thread, figuring that GM owners
should know the pinout of their
own parts.
http://www.turbobuick.com/forums/showthread.php?s=&threadid=19848Well,
that thread says that A=+5V, B=signal, and C=+0V. It's wrong.
The
power and ground are BACKWARDS! The A, B, and C terminals are
clearly
labeled both on the part AND on the GM harness that I'm using, so I'm
sure I
hooked up the wires the way the post mentioned. The correct
wiring, as
Roger showed me with a labeled picture of the sensor, is A=+0V,
B=signal,
and C=+0V for the GM 3-bar MAP sensor. The only thing I can
figure is that
the thread refers to a 2-bar MAP sensor and that the pinout is
different
(that's a guess - I don't know for sure).
And, at least for
short periods, it seems that reversing power and ground on
the sensor doesn't
fry it - mine still works as it should (I tested it out
manually).
- --Erik
'95 VR-4 with a (finally) fully working 3D mapping WI
system
(and a happy green light on my dash that tells me when
water
is being sprayed into the y-pipe)
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 1 Mar 2002 14:27:05
-0800 (PST)
From: menalteed <
menalteed@yahoo.com>
Subject:
Team3S: Drivers side Intercooler
Has anyone who has removed this drivers
side
intercoller on a TT been able to do it withour
removing the bumper,
also what is the time frame for
removing that intercooler. I just checked
mine in the
process of my turbo replacement and it is full of oil.
I can
remove it and clean it or vacuum it the best I
can without taking it out or
possibly put a drain bong
in the bottom of the intercooler, then drain
and
cleaning in place and have a future ease of cleaning
if a problem
should creep up again. OK you machanics
give me some guidence, just how bad
is this going to be.
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 1 Mar 2002 14:53:41
-0800
From: "Gross, Erik" <
erik.gross@intel.com>
Subject: RE:
Team3S: Drivers side Intercooler
Removing the bumper isn't THAT bad, but
it is time consuming. If you have a
service manual, it's pretty
straight-forward. The first time, plan on it
taking a couple hours
because of those @#%$# plastic "clip with the screw in
the center" thingies
that hold the wheelwell splashguards in place. That
was the only thing
that was extremely painful for me on my '95 VR-4. An air
ratchet or a
socket attachment for a cordless drill are very nice for all
the 10mm bolts
all over the place.
- --Erik
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 1 Mar 2002 18:39:36
EST
From:
Aso8@aol.comSubject: Re:
Team3S: My Record Pass in Question.
Jack, I'm impressed at how sensitive
& considerate you are about
this absurd complaint. Why you'd even
consider this worthy of an
answer a stretch. Maybe if HUGE hard dollars are
at stake or a
Formula 1 Title but this is private Street & Drag racing.
I can assure
you that IMHO your time slip says (loud & clear) all that
needs to be
said.
Arty 91 VR-4 11.41 @ 124.32 (still slowly working on
the monster)
In a message dated 03/01/2002 1:41:38 AM Eastern Standard
Time,
xwing@wi.rr.com
writes:
<< Subj: Team3S: My Record Pass in
Question.
Date: 03/01/2002 1:41:38 AM Eastern Standard
Time
From:
xwing@wi.rr.com
(xwing)
Sender:
owner-team3s@team3s.com To:
dschilberg@pobox.com,
team3s@stealth-3000gt.st,
3sracers@speedtoys.com I'm
upset.
Darren Schilberg has a technical argument that my record passes
should be
forgotten, don't count, and says "other folks" might question
them, >>
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 1 Mar 2002 18:44:59
-0600
From: "Eric Cheek" <
echeek@cox-internet.com>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: Fog Light bulb replacement
Dude its easy ;) .... there is a
"cap" in the rear of the foglight that must
be twisted 45 degrees
counterclockwise and removed. Then the lamp is held
with a spring that must
be pushed up or down don't recall. Anyhow took me
about 30 minutes the first
time and I didn't have to remove a single screw.
Eric C. 92 VR4
-
-----Original Message-----
From:
owner-team3s@team3s.com
[mailto:owner-team3s@team3s.com]On Behalf
Of Thomas Jeys
Sent: Thursday,
February 28, 2002 8:54 PM
To: Team 3s
Subject: RE:Team3S: Fog Light bulb
replacement
Okay,
Mitsubishi lighting engineers are
idiots. You know what I mean if you've
ever tried to change the bulb of
one of the 1g popup type headlights. And
now I'm getting the wonderful
experience of trying to change the fog light
bulb. What a pain!!
As best I can see, the whole front of the car has to
come off! The
plastic piece on the front of the car has about 90 screws or
bolts holding it
on, as I see it only about 15 of them are necessary. Has
anyone else
tried this? Am I missing something very obvious?
T.J. 1992
3000GT VR-4
tj@jeys.netPS: Does it
seem like mitsubishi has "special" engineers day? Have the
good
engineers come in and design the engine then have the morons
design
everything else?
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 1 Mar 2002 19:08:40
-0800
From: "P N Sankarshanan" <
yoss@aracnet.com>
Subject: Team3S: $40
+ labor suspension mod
Folks:
After following
all the various suspension/handling upgrade related
threads, I've decided to
try out the cheapest of them - for $40, I'm gonna
replace the anti-sway bar
bushes with polyurethane ones. The more expensive
part of the bargain
is the labor; but, I need to get the dang rear-differential
seal fixed up
anyway, so I'm getting both of them done at the same time.
-
-sankar
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 1 Mar 2002 20:37:38
-0800 (PST)
From: John Christian <
jczoom_619@yahoo.com>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: Drivers side Intercooler
Hi,
If you are going to
remove/drain the intercooler, you
should consider straightening all of the
fins.
Mine had small stones, bugs, leaves, bees, pine
needles,
etc. Took me about 2 hours per intercooler
to debug and straighten the
fins.
I fastened metal screening onto the inside of the
bumper cover
holes to protect my work.
Be of good cheer,
John
- ---
menalteed <
menalteed@yahoo.com>
wrote:
> Has anyone who has removed this drivers side
> intercoller
on a TT been able to do it withour
> removing the bumper, also what is the
time frame for
> removing that intercooler. I just checked mine in
>
the
> process of my turbo replacement and it is full of
>
oil.
> I can remove it and clean it or vacuum it the best I
> can
without taking it out or possibly put a drain
> bong
> in the bottom
of the intercooler, then drain and
> cleaning in place and have a future
ease of cleaning
> if a problem should creep up again. OK you
machanics
> give me some guidence, just how bad is this going to
>
be.
Please respond to
jczoom@iname.com'93 TT with Porsche
brakes and Supra TT rotors
12.4@109MPH
5/97 almost stock
http://www.geocities.com/motorcity/flats/4538***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
End of Team3S: 3000GT &
Stealth V1
#769
***************************************