*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 27 Feb 2002 22:44:03
-0500
From: "Darren Schilberg" <
dschilberg@pobox.com>
Subject: RE:
Team3S: Upgraded Front Sway bar Inst. ?
Yes it was but I felt I deserved
it. No technical post here twice in a
row and I hear the Admins
approaching. Thanks Rich for the public
apology. We're all adults
here so let's bury the hatchet.
Rich -- let's put the G-Tech to good use
and get some base numbers for
cornering. Take your daughter's car
(although it has springs on it I
think) and do three doughtnuts in a parking
lot (that is about the limit
until the cops are called around here and is
about the minimum for
G-Tech to get a reading ... 3 seconds I believe is the
minimum for
constant Gs). Then take yours with front and rear anti-sway
bars and
see what we get. Obviously the cars are a little different but
it will
give us a chance to measure yours against my rear anti-sway bar only
and
someone else's no anti-sway bars. Wait, I sold my G-Tech.
Someone else
will have to try. Maybe Dean and the front anti-sway bar
only.
- --Flash!
- -----Original Message-----
From:
merritt@cedar-rapids.net
[mailto:merritt@cedar-rapids.net]
Sent: Wednesday, February 27, 2002
22:33
Sorry. That was a cheap shot.
Rich
At 10:29 PM 2/27/02
-0500, Darren Schilberg wrote:
>Careful, Rich. We only need one of
me on the list and I've already got
>the position.
***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 27 Feb 2002 23:00:52
-0500
From: "Darren Schilberg" <
dschilberg@pobox.com>
Subject: Race
seat and harness safety (was: RE: Team3S: Fog Light bulb
replacement)
Reminder to all with race seats and/or harnesses or who are
thinking
about getting them ... it is illegal if not just downright silly to
put
a race seat and/or harness in your car and not install a rollbar
or
rollcage. No proper tech crew will allow your car to pass for
obvious
reasons (stated below). Check with the group you drive with or
the
track you drive on to see what their safety requirements are.
The
reason a rollbar or rollcage is required is when you strap yourself
into a
race seat (or a stock seat) with a safety harness then you limit
your
movement. In the event of a rollover your head will not be the
tallest
thing in the cockpit and will get squashed like a grape. With
the stock
3-point harness you can lean to either side or to the front
but a 5- or a
6-point harness prevents this.
Sorry ... getting my noggin crushed is a
little bit of a sensitive
subject with me so I try to make sure people are
aware as many times
those who buy race seats from one place and harnesses
from another are
not offered this advice. Before you spend $1,000 or
more, get it
installed all pretty like, and submit your Driver's Ed fee and
drive to
the track -- I don't want you to be turned away because you don't
have a
rollbar (and those street bars that are for show don't
count).
I have a contact for anyone who needs more information. Ken
Myers,
Ken@IOPortRacing.com or
www.ioportracing.com, is a great source
and is
where I purchased my Autopower Race Rollbar from. Great
place. Good
source of knowledge. Let me know if you have any
questions, concerns,
or comments.
- --Flash!
1995 VR-4 with
Autopower Race rollbar, Sparco Evo race seat, and Simpson
5-point harness
- -----Original Message-----
From: Todd D.Shelton
Sent: Wednesday,
February 27, 2002 13:47
Subject: Re: Team3S: Fog Light bulb
replacement
But after just dropping hundereds on the headlight HID
conversion,
another $1435 on the Teins, $1K on racing seats and
harness,
Momo steering wheel and new stereo head unit and
steering wheel
remote control unit I'm a little tapped out
at the moment.
***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 27 Feb 2002 23:06:16
-0500
From: "Darren Schilberg" <
dschilberg@pobox.com>
Subject: RE:
Team3S: Gtech Competition
How many people are going to the National Meet
in the Midwest? How many
will have a G-Tech Pro? Why not set up a
Guinea pig car. Put like 10
G-Tech Pro devices on the windshield (on
the passenger side so the
driver can still see) then do a 0-60 and 60-0 test,
1/4 test, cornering
G tests, etc. Wouldn't that just clear up any
problems of them being
off or accurate to each other? I am not going or
else I would volunteer
to be the driver.
Just get Radio Shack to
donate or buy a ton of 2-to-1 and 3-to-1
cigarette lighter adapters and have
a battery large enough to run all
the equipment. Then somehow find
someone with the new one to compare
that. Oh I am sorry I'm gonna miss
this test now at the Gathering.
Maybe have a new class at the AutoX to
see who can hold the highest
sustained G turn on the skidpad.
-
--Flash!
Former G-Tech owner
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 28 Feb 2002 15:00:04
+0800
From: "John Stegall III" <
jstegall@programmer.net>
Subject:
Team3S: M&S Recycling
Has anyone here done any work with M&S
Recycling? They're a scrap yard here in Pomona, Ca and they specialize in
ONLY DSMs and 3000GTs/Stealths, it's all they carry. I've gone to the yard
twice now and they have tons of of our cars, N/A and turbo. I get an email
from them everytime they get in a new 3000GT/Stealth, and they seem to have a
lot of cars that are quite complete. I've seen a few pairs of ball bearing
turbos amongst quite a number of other parts that I've thought about taking a
look if they're in good condition and the price is right, vs buying new.
Just wondering if anyone on the list has done any business with them and if
their prices are decent and if they're reputable.
Thanks.
John
1994 3000GT VR-4
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 28 Feb 2002 15:02:37
+0800
From: "John Stegall III" <
jstegall@programmer.net>
Subject:
Team3S: Resealing 2nd Gen Tranny
I've got 70k on my car, still original
tranny. The tranny shifts like butter, but the leak that was really small
has gotten progressively worse in the past couple of days, and I noticed a nice
big puddle underneath my parking spot today when I left work. I haven't
the foggiest clue how I'd go about resealing the tranny myself, but can anyone
on the list tell me, what a good price is for resealing the tranny with
replacement parts from Kormex? Also, while I've got the mechanic down
there, is there anything else I should have replaced? Thanks
guys.
John
1994 3000GT VR-4 (leaky tranny)
***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 28 Feb 2002 02:19:24
-0500
From: "Darren Schilberg" <
dschilberg@pobox.com>
Subject: RE:
Team3S: M&S Recycling
John,
I just emailed Jose recently (last
few days) about an ECU for a 3000GT
as well as the full cars on their
site. I think he said he had an
engine extra but I was really looking
for a price on the complete VR-4s
he had on the lot but I've gotten no price
for them yet. They obviously
get more money for the individual parts I
realize but that is as far as
I've gotten.
Others on the list have had
mixed reviews from perfect to item shipped
late but customer service was
helpful along the way.
- --Flash!
1995 VR-4
- -----Original
Message-----
From: John Stegall III
Sent: Thursday, February 28, 2002
02:00
Has anyone here done any work with M&S Recycling?
They're a scrap yard
here in Pomona, Ca and they specialize in ONLY DSMs
and
3000GTs/Stealths, it's all they carry. I've gone to the yard twice
now
and they have tons of of our cars, N/A and turbo. I get an email
from
them everytime they get in a new 3000GT/Stealth, and they seem to have
a
lot of cars that are quite complete. I've seen a few pairs of
ball
bearing turbos amongst quite a number of other parts that I've
thought
about taking a look if they're in good condition and the price is
right,
vs buying new. Just wondering if anyone on the list has done
any
business with them and if their prices are decent and if
they're
reputable. Thanks.
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 28 Feb 2002 04:18:19
-0500
From: "Bill vp" <
billvp@highstream.net>
Subject:
Team3S: Anyone have any complaints about the dynabatt?
It seemed that
some people were having some low voltage problems at WOT?
Have any of you
that have them had those problems? I'm going to get a
dynabatt so I can
run alcohol injection (a nice place to put the SMC
container) and to lose
some weight.
All comments are
appreciated
thanks,
Bill
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 28 Feb 2002 10:33:56
+0100
From: Roger Gerl <
roger.gerl@bluewin.ch>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Anyone have any complaints about the dynabatt?
In Europe the
Dynabatt is only recommended as an additional battery and not
for
standalone. I planed to install it too to gain some room but the
importer of
the batts warned me using it as standalone in our cars. I went
with the
Optima.
Roger
93'3000GT TT
www.rtec.chAt 04:18 28.02.2002 -0500, Bill
vp wrote:
>It seemed that some people were having some low voltage
problems at WOT?
>Have any of you that have them had those problems?
I'm going to get a
>dynabatt so I can run alcohol injection (a nice place
to put the SMC
>container) and to lose some weight.
***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 28 Feb 2002 05:01:07
-0500
From: "Bill vp" <
billvp@highstream.net>
Subject:
Team3S: 13G vs 15G comp. wheels .... any difference in looks?
What is the
easiest way to tell them apart when you are looking at them?
Does anyone have
any pics to illustrate this?
thanks,
Bill
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 28 Feb 2002 09:32:00
-0500
From:
pvg1@daimlerchrysler.comSubject:
Team3S: Road Dyno nightmare
I am fed up with this Road Dyno thing. I made
close to 100 attempts trying
to record anything while experimenting with
different setups, settings, and
two cars. All I got only was less than a
dozen of waveforms and none of
them were at WOT. I am sick of seeing this
message "too many errors".
The inductive pickup is junk. Sometimes it
skips pulses and sometimes it
reports twice as many. Connecting the crocodile
clamps directly to a coil
works better, but I have not been able to record a
good run with that setup
either. I will make one more attempt to fiddle with
the voltage that the
road dyno sees before sending it back.
If nothing
works am going to try the Street Dyno (web: search Yahoo for
"Street Dyno").
It is almost the same thing as Mike Cheney's Home Dyno, but
I saw a website
of a guy who used both Street Dyno and Home Dyno and he
seems to like Street
Dyno better. Besides I have not been getting much help
from Mike Cheney,
therefore I would rather try any other product but his.
At least I will know
why I am getting that "too many errors" and could do
something about
it.
Philip
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 28 Feb 2002 06:36:20
-0800 (PST)
From: Jeff Lucius <
stealthman92@yahoo.com>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Anyone have any complaints about the dynabatt?
Many of us use
the Dyna-Batt without problems.
1. The alternator supplies voltage/amps
while the engine is running.
The battery only contributes if the load is
greater than the
alternator can supply (such as during low idle or if
high-draw
accessories are used). Any low-voltage problems (what are
you
measuring anyway and how?) at WOT should be due to the alternator
or
engine/accessory load. The battery should not be involved (except
as
explained above).
2. Roger, what exactly is the "Euro-warning" for
(what rating or
specification)? The reserve capacity of the Dyna-Batt is less
than
most batteries, but this is only important if the alternator is
not
on or working (such as failed alternator or engine turned off).
The
crank rating exceeds typical wet cell batteries.
My experience
during winter storage has been that I need to put my
1-amp trickle charger on
the Dyna-Batt every 3rd weekend if the car
has not been started and driven.
But even if drained (such as after
the doors were open for about 16 hours
total while working on the
car), the Dyna-Batt recovers quickly and without
damage, unlike
wet-cell batteries. Other than winter-storage charging, I have
no
problems with the Dyna-Batt.
http://www.geocities.com/lutransys/jlucius6/j6-2-dynabatt.htmPS.
As much as I like the Dyna-Batt in my Stealth, I will be putting
an Optima in
my Mitsu pickup because weight and size are not a
concern (and I am tired of
the crud build-up due to battery
out-gassing).
Jeff Lucius,
http://www.stealth316.com/- -----
Original Message -----
From: "Roger Gerl" <
roger.gerl@bluewin.ch>
To: <
team3S@stealth-3000gt.st>
Sent:
Thursday, February 28, 2002 2:33 AM
Subject: Re: Team3S: Anyone have any
complaints about the dynabatt?
In Europe the Dynabatt is only recommended
as an additional battery
and not for standalone. I planed to install it too
to gain some room
but the importer of the batts warned me using it as
standalone in our
cars. I went with the Optima.
Roger
93'3000GT
TT
www.rtec.chAt 04:18 28.02.2002
-0500, Bill vp wrote:
>It seemed that some people were having some low
voltage problems at
WOT?
>Have any of you that have them had those
problems? I'm going to get
a
>dynabatt so I can run alcohol
injection (a nice place to put the SMC
>container) and to lose some
weight.
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 28 Feb 2002 09:50:22
-0500
From: "Darren Schilberg" <
dschilberg@pobox.com>
Subject: RE:
Team3S: Anyone have any complaints about the dynabatt?
I think the Optima
Red (Auto) and Yellow (Marine) are both deep-cycle
batteries meaning they can
go to absolutely no charge and recover
without damage.
And if you are
putting in alcohol injection then that is liquid weight
so you might not save
any weight but will have an extra option at the
same weight as
before.
If you are concerned about room in the engine bay then move the
battery
to the trunk (easier) or back seat (if your interior is more or
less
gutted). Use a safe battery box (Pep Boys, Sears, Summit Racing,
etc.).
I bought the smaller Optima Red Top last week (650 CCA or maybe it
was
the 850 CCA) for about $110 at Pep Boys. It was for fitting the
front
strut tower bar in since this hardware has a battery hold-down
option
and really only fits the Optima batteries. No problems other
than the
negative post is a little thinner than stock so I had to make
that
terminal clamp a little tighter initially. It is safe for the
road
courses and red to complete the color scheme theme.
-
--Flash!
1995 VR-4 with Optima Red Top battery
- -----Original
Message-----
From: Jeff Lucius
Sent: Thursday, February 28, 2002
09:36
Many of us use the Dyna-Batt without problems.
1. The
alternator supplies voltage/amps while the engine is running.
The battery
only contributes if the load is greater than the
alternator can supply (such
as during low idle or if high-draw
accessories are used). Any low-voltage
problems (what are you
measuring anyway and how?) at WOT should be due to the
alternator or
engine/accessory load. The battery should not be involved
(except as
explained above).
2. Roger, what exactly is the
"Euro-warning" for (what rating or
specification)? The reserve capacity of
the Dyna-Batt is less than
most batteries, but this is only important if the
alternator is not
on or working (such as failed alternator or engine turned
off). The
crank rating exceeds typical wet cell batteries.
My
experience during winter storage has been that I need to put my
1-amp trickle
charger on the Dyna-Batt every 3rd weekend if the car
has not been started
and driven. But even if drained (such as after
the doors were open for about
16 hours total while working on the
car), the Dyna-Batt recovers quickly and
without damage, unlike
wet-cell batteries. Other than winter-storage
charging, I have no
problems with the Dyna-Batt.
http://www.geocities.com/lutransys/jlucius6/j6-2-dynabatt.htmPS.
As much as I like the Dyna-Batt in my Stealth, I will be putting
an Optima in
my Mitsu pickup because weight and size are not a
concern (and I am tired of
the crud build-up due to battery
out-gassing).
Jeff Lucius,
http://www.stealth316.com/***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 28 Feb 2002 06:57:06
-0800 (PST)
From: Jeff Lucius <
stealthman92@yahoo.com>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: 13G vs 15G comp. wheels .... any difference in looks?
The
wheels will appear nearly identical. The diameter of that portion
of the
wheel that can be seen in the inlet opening (where the intake
hose attaches)
will be larger for the 15G compared to the 13G. That
"cylinder" on the turbo
that the intake hose attaches to will be
milled out for the 13G (if a 9B
housing was used) and 15G (either 9B
or 13G housing used) wheels to
fit.
Nominal impeller inducer sizes (the minor wheel diameter seen in
the
inlet):
9B: 1.395"
13G: 1.580"
15G: 1.625"
Your eye
may not be able to discriminate the 0.045" difference
between 13G and 15G
wheels so use a micrometer to measure the inside
diameter of the inlet
opening.
TD04-9B compressor housing part numbers:
front: 49177-02310
or 49177-02300
rear: 49177-02410 or 49177-02400
TD04-13G compressor
housing part numbers:
front: 49177-00320
rear: 49177-00420
More
turbo info and some pics:
http://www.geocities.com/lutransys/jlucius2/j2-2-turboguide.htmhttp://www.geocities.com/lutransys/jlucius5/j5-2-3s-compflowmaps.htmFor
completeness:
MHI "B"-, "C"-, and "T"-style compressor wheels have all blade
tips
at the same height. "G"-style wheels have blade tips at two
heights,
alternating high and low. Blades are always evenly spaced. There
are
12 blades on 9B, 13G, and 15G compressor wheels (basically any B,
C,
or G wheel). "T" wheels have 6 blades. Compressor wheels are
called
impellers. Turbine wheels are called rotors.
Jeff Lucius,
http://www.stealth316.com/- -----
Original Message -----
From: "Bill vp" <
billvp@highstream.net>
To:
"team3/S" <
team3S@stealth-3000gt.st>
Sent:
Thursday, February 28, 2002 3:01 AM
Subject: Team3S: 13G vs 15G comp. wheels
.... any difference in
looks?
What is the easiest way to tell them
apart when you are looking at
them? Does anyone have any pics to illustrate
this?
thanks,
Bill
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 28 Feb 2002 09:14:48
-0600
From: "Jannusch, Matt" <
mjannusch@marketwatch.com>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: Turbo swap
> Again forget removing the O2 sensers,
not
> needed nor removing the battery or plentum
> or a bunch of
other stuff it dosen't do a
> thing for removing the turbos, the best
tool
> is using your head then it is quite simple.
I'd suggest
removing the battery so that you can get at the intake piping
and wastegate
actuator for the rear turbo when you put it all back together.
Don't forget -
you are only halfway done. ;-) Taking it apart is the
easy
part. It is putting it all back together that is tricky.
-
-Matt
'95 3000GT Spyder VR4
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 28 Feb 2002 07:24:07
-0800 (PST)
From: Jeff Lucius <
stealthman92@yahoo.com>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Gtech Competition
- ----- Original Message -----
From:
"fastmax" <
fastmax@cox.net>
To:
"Black, Dave (ICT)" <
dblai@allstate.com>; <
tds@brightok.net>
Cc: "Team3s (E-mail)"
<
Team3S@stealth-3000gt.st>
Sent:
Wednesday, February 27, 2002 4:42 PM
Subject: Re: Team3S: Gtech
Competition
<snip>
If they can find speed and time and you give
them weight they can
calculate HP --- no magic just math.
<snip>
For "the math" please take a look at my web page below
(an example
calculation using Jack T's 10.81 s 1/4 mile run is at the end of
the
article).
http://www.geocities.com/lutransys/jlucius/2-fwp.htmJeff
Lucius,
http://www.stealth316.com/***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 28 Feb 2002 09:30:11
-0600
From: "Jannusch, Matt" <
mjannusch@marketwatch.com>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: Anyone have any complaints about the dynabatt?
The only real
alternative to the DynaBatt (that I've seen) is the Black
Panther Predator
(now renamed to the Odyssey). It is 12 pounds lighter than
the stock
battery and frees up enough room for alcohol or water injection
systems on
the battery tray. I used the 925 version, which has 470 CCA
but
supposedly the same "power" as a 1000 CCA wet cell battery. Never
had any
problems with low voltage or trouble cranking over the car (or
running the
convertible top with the engine off).
They are $159.99 at
Jeg's.
http://www.jegs.com/cgi-bin/ncommerce3/ProductDisplay?prrfnbr=534&prmenbr=76The
DynaBatt looks significantly smaller though, so if you are going for
maximum
space saved then that's the best route. The Odyssey has more
power.
BTW, Jeff... Nice battery retainer! :-)
-
-Matt
'95 3000GT Spyder VR4
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 28 Feb 2002 07:39:25
-0700
From: "Mike & Cathy" <
micajoco@theofficenet.com>
Subject:
Team3S: motor on e-bay
Hey---If anyone is interested there is a 93
Stealth n/t motor on e-bay . I
e-mailed the seller and he said it had 0 miles
on it. The motor also came
with an extra set of heads. Current bid is
$799
This is listed under Dodge Stealth motors. Seems reasonable sence my
heads
are costing $1200
to rebuild.
Mike S r/t tt
***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 28 Feb 2002 08:03:14
-0800 (PST)
From: menalteed <
menalteed@yahoo.com>
Subject: RE:
Team3S: Turbo swap
Ok I did remove the battery, as a safety
precaution
but also because of rust in the battery area that has
been a
problem building up for the ten years I have
owned the car. I should get all
the parts and gaskets
I ordered today so I will be Installing the new
turbos this weekend. My main concern right now is the
question of the
intercooler and oil feed lines. The
intercooler may or may not have oil in
it, I removed
the intake line and looked down the hole but couldn't
see
any. I may try and vacuum any oil out but then
again I may just bite the
bullet and remove the front
bumper and take it out for proper cleaning as the
rear
turbo was quite chewed up. I'm going about this in my
spare time and
moving slowly so I do it right. I'm
also having a major problem because the
metal O ring
that goes between the output exhaust and the rear
turbo is
missing and no one seems to stock these. The
last time I noticed it it fell
down and caught near
the lower area of the firewall, and when I tried
to
mag it, it didn't work as it is not a magnetic type of
metal, but I
dislodged it and it fell to what sounded
like the ground. I figured it would
be someplace under
the car but it wasn't and being round it could
have
rolled to the street right when the garbage men where
picking up. It
is frustrating and will set me back at
least a week and a half if it doesn't
turn up. One
question I notice that the gaskets that go between the
turbos
and exhaust
have a dimple on one side that seems to me a
direction
indicator, when I removed the gaskets I hadn't noticed
this but
does anyone know if it makes any difference
in what direction these gaskets
should go, my dealer
had no idea and maybe it makes no difference as
both
sides are flanges of the same size and metal. The
other question is
how does one go about torqueing the
water line bolts as they are in a
location that is
very hard to get a torque wrench on. In any case
thanks
to everyone who has posted on the turbo change
and all the help has been very
well used on my part.
Peter
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 28 Feb 2002 10:18:54
-0600
From: "Jannusch, Matt" <
mjannusch@marketwatch.com>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: Turbo swap
> also having a major problem because the metal
O ring
> that goes between the output exhaust and the rear
> turbo
is missing and no one seems to stock these.
Skip it. It isn't
really required to seal up the joint.
> One question I notice that the
gaskets that go
> between the turbos and exhaust have a dimple on
one
> side that seems to me a direction indicator, when I
> removed
the gaskets I hadn't noticed this but does
> anyone know if it makes any
difference in what
> direction these gaskets should go?
The
gaskets only fit one way on the manifold studs if I remember right.
One
hole is round and the other two are slotted, and they only match
the
holes/studs in one orientation.
> The other question is how
does one go
> about torqueing the water line bolts as
> they are in
a location that is very hard to
> get a torque wrench on.
I left
them on the turbos when I pulled them out, and installed them back on
before
installing the new turbos (at least the ones that face the
engine
block). If you need to do it with a regular wrench, torque one
of the more
accessible ones a bit light with a torque wrench and then see how
much force
it takes to tighten it a bit with the open-end wrench. Apply
similar force
to the other one to match. It doesn't have to be exact,
but the closer the
better.
- -Matt
'95 3000GT Spyder
VR4
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 28 Feb 2002 12:41:58
-0500
From: "Darren Schilberg" <
dschilberg@pobox.com>
Subject:
Team3S: FS: Porterfield R4 pads for Big Reds
Nobody on the 3SRacers list
has spoken up yet so the big now goes to
Team3S and then to 3Si and eBay and
then to the local Porsche club.
- --Flash!
1995 VR-4 and going back to
stock calipers for a while
- -----Original Message-----
From:
dschilberg@pobox.com Sent: Wednesday,
February 27, 2002 23:48
To:
3sracers@speedtoys.comSubject:
3S-Racers: FS: Porterfield R4 pads for Big Reds
Who wants to buy the
Porterfield R4 race pads for my Big Reds? They are
unused and I bought
them from Mohler back in early Jan 2002. I'll sell
them for the same
price Geoff lists them as which is $133.
And if you are within driving
distance then you save on shipping. I'm
selling my Big Reds (sold them,
actually) and don't need these pads now.
- --Flash!
1995
VR-4
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 28 Feb 2002 13:59:20
-0500
From: "Jeff VanOrsdal" <
jeffv@1nce.com>
Subject: Team3S: Question
about syncro replacement (NOT Getrag)
I'm going to be rebuilding my
transmission while it's out of the car, but
I'm a little lost on replacement
of the syncros. Can I get by with just
replacing the brass syncro rings, or
do I need to swap out the whole
hub/sleeve assembly? The price difference is
around $350 so it's pretty
important. If anyone knows for sure, let me know.
Thanks.
Jeff VanOrsdal
1991 Stealth ESX Twin Turbo (about to receive
the bionic transmission)
jeffv@1nce.com*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 28 Feb 2002 12:01:10
-0700
From: "Floyd, Jim" <
Jim_Floyd@maxtor.com>
Subject: RE:
Team3S: M&S Recycling
No problems on my transactions.
-
-----Original Message-----
From: John Stegall III
[mailto:jstegall@programmer.net]
Sent: Thursday, February 28, 2002 12:00
AM
To:
Team3S@stealth-3000gt.stSubject:
Team3S: M&S Recycling
Has anyone here done any work with M&S
Recycling? They're a scrap yard here
in Pomona, Ca and they specialize
in ONLY DSMs and 3000GTs/Stealths, it's
all they carry. I've gone to
the yard twice now and they have tons of of
our cars, N/A and turbo. I
get an email from them everytime they get in a
new 3000GT/Stealth, and they
seem to have a lot of cars that are quite
complete. I've seen a few
pairs of ball bearing turbos amongst quite a
number of other parts that I've
thought about taking a look if they're in
good condition and the price is
right, vs buying new. Just wondering if
anyone on the list has done any
business with them and if their prices are
decent and if they're
reputable. Thanks.
John
1994 3000GT VR-4
***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 28 Feb 2002 12:23:16
-0700
From: "Floyd, Jim" <
Jim_Floyd@maxtor.com>
Subject: RE:
Team3S: Anyone have any complaints about the dynabatt?
I just changed to
the Optima from using 2 Dyna-bats.
They just didn't work for me as an
everyday battery.
- -----Original Message-----
From: Roger Gerl
[mailto:roger.gerl@bluewin.ch]
Sent: Thursday, February 28, 2002 2:34
AM
To:
team3S@stealth-3000gt.stSubject:
Re: Team3S: Anyone have any complaints about the dynabatt?
In Europe the
Dynabatt is only recommended as an additional battery and not
for
standalone. I planed to install it too to gain some room but the
importer of
the batts warned me using it as standalone in our cars. I went
with the
Optima.
Roger
93'3000GT TT
www.rtec.chAt 04:18 28.02.2002 -0500, Bill
vp wrote:
>It seemed that some people were having some low voltage
problems at WOT?
>Have any of you that have them had those problems?
I'm going to get a
>dynabatt so I can run alcohol injection (a nice place
to put the SMC
>container) and to lose some weight.
***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 28 Feb 2002 11:25:18
-0800
From: "Gross, Erik" <
erik.gross@intel.com>
Subject: RE:
Team3S: Anyone have any complaints about the dynabatt?
I have Dynabatt in
my VR-4 as of about 4 weeks ago, installed for the same
reason as Bill -
installation of a Water/Alky Injection system. I'm using
a
bumper-mounted water tank, but I have the water pump and a bunch of
other
stuff in the area where the stock battery goes. They Dynabatt
fits in there
with the pump and all the other stuff AND it all fits under my
front strut
tower brace. I have the TEC brace from Chris Thorne and he
made me a custom
battery bracket that works with my thinner Dynabatt (used to
have a Red
Top).
- --Erik
BTW, weight-wise, my VR-4 is at
3660lbs with a 5gal of gas, full interior,
spare, jack, and tools.
Dynabatt, HKS exhaust, Stillen DP are the only
"lighter" things I have, and I
have a few extra things, too (braces, 1gal
water tank, and probably 10-20lbs
of misc stuff). I know I can easily get
100-200 lbs off of that when I
feel motivated.
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 28 Feb 2002 14:29:50
-0500
From: "Darren Schilberg" <
dschilberg@pobox.com>
Subject: RE:
Team3S: FS: Porterfield R4 pads for Big Reds
These pads have been
sold. Not only to a PCA member but also the owner
of a Stealth with Big
Reds who lives here locally. Things couldn't be
better. No
shipping that way. =)
Thanks to all who helped.
-
--Flash!
- -----Original Message-----
From: Darren Schilberg
Sent:
Thursday, February 28, 2002 12:42
Nobody on the 3SRacers list has
spoken up yet so the big now goes to
Team3S and then to 3Si and eBay and then
to the local Porsche club.
- --Flash!
1995 VR-4 and going back to
stock calipers for a while
- -----Original Message-----
From:
dschilberg@pobox.com Sent: Wednesday,
February 27, 2002 23:48
To:
3sracers@speedtoys.comSubject:
3S-Racers: FS: Porterfield R4 pads for Big Reds
Who wants to buy the
Porterfield R4 race pads for my Big Reds? They are
unused and I bought
them from Mohler back in early Jan 2002. I'll sell
them for the same
price Geoff lists them as which is $133.
And if you are within driving
distance then you save on shipping. I'm
selling my Big Reds (sold them,
actually) and don't need these pads now.
- --Flash!
1995
VR-4
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 28 Feb 2002 11:30:34
-0800
From: "Gross, Erik" <
erik.gross@intel.com>
Subject: RE:
Team3S: Anyone have any complaints about the dynabatt?
> I just
changed to the Optima from using 2 Dyna-bats.
> They just didn't work for
me as an everyday battery.
How/why didn't they work? Can you be
more specific?
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 28 Feb 2002 14:31:36
-0500
From: "Furman, Russell" <
RFurman2@MassMutual.com>
Subject:
Team3S: WAS anyone have any complaints about the dynabatt?, NOW W eight
Loss
Erik about 40-45lbs of that is the jack and spare AMHIK, also the
complete
rear seats are good for another 30+, and then of course swap out the
stock
driver's seat for a Sparco/Corbeau 15-25lbs, Passenger seat swap to the
same
is good for like 10-15 lbs. Thats just off the top of my
head.......
Can you say diet for our wonderful toys.
>
-----Original Message-----
> From: Gross, Erik
[SMTP:erik.gross@intel.com]
> Sent: Thursday, February 28, 2002 2:25
PM
> To: team3/S
> Subject: RE: Team3S: Anyone have any complaints
about the dynabatt?
>
> I have Dynabatt in my VR-4 as of about 4
weeks ago, installed for the same
> reason as Bill - installation of a
Water/Alky Injection system. I'm using
> a
> bumper-mounted
water tank, but I have the water pump and a bunch of other
> stuff in the
area where the stock battery goes. They Dynabatt fits in
>
there
> with the pump and all the other stuff AND it all fits under my
front strut
> tower brace. I have the TEC brace from Chris Thorne
and he made me a
> custom
> battery bracket that works with my
thinner Dynabatt (used to have a Red
> Top).
>
>
--Erik
>
> BTW, weight-wise, my VR-4 is at 3660lbs with a 5gal of
gas, full interior,
> spare, jack, and tools. Dynabatt, HKS exhaust,
Stillen DP are the only
> "lighter" things I have, and I have a few extra
things, too (braces, 1gal
> water tank, and probably 10-20lbs of misc
stuff). I know I can easily get
> 100-200 lbs off of that when I
feel motivated.
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 28 Feb 2002 14:52:54
-0500
From: "Darren Schilberg" <
dschilberg@pobox.com>
Subject: RE:
Team3S: WAS anyone have any complaints about the dynabatt?, NOW W eight
Loss
*sigh* Remember my post yesterday about the
rollbar/rollcage? As soon
as you put in race seats then you had better
install a harness since the
stock seatbelt receptor goes with the stock seat
unless you remount it
but no 3-point will hold you well in a race seat
because you sit down in
a race seat and leave a 6"-8" gap to the belt that
goes across your
waist.
Driver seat weighs 60# (power
seat).
Passenger seat weighs 40#.
Rollbar weighs 60#.
Race seat weighs
15-25# (20# average).
Safety harness is not enough to worry about but a few
pounds at most.
One race seat and rollbar = (-60) + (-40) + 60 + 20 = (-20#)
change.
Two race seats and rollbar = 0# change.
- --Flash!
1995
VR-4, rollbar, one race seat at the ready, so a weight penalty of
20# for the
race seat (rollbar and driver seat offset each other)
- -----Original
Message-----
From: Furman, Russell
Sent: Thursday, February 28, 2002
14:32
Erik about 40-45lbs of that is the jack and spare AMHIK, also
the
complete
rear seats are good for another 30+, and then of course swap
out the
stock
driver's seat for a Sparco/Corbeau 15-25lbs, Passenger seat
swap to the
same
is good for like 10-15 lbs. Thats just off the top
of my head.......
Can you say diet for our wonderful
toys.
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 28 Feb 2002 14:59:19
-0500
From: "Furman, Russell" <
RFurman2@MassMutual.com>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: WAS anyone have any complaints about the dynabatt?, N OW Weight
Loss
Yes, but Darren as soon as you add a roll bar, the backseats now
lose their
mediocre functionality in our cars..... Hence over all you
lose 25 lbs.,
and if you have money to burn, add to the list a
CFDS another 20lb+ loss, a
c/f hood 15lbs more. Anyone else have
suggestions
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Darren
Schilberg [SMTP:dschilberg@pobox.com]
> Sent: Thursday, February 28, 2002
2:53 PM
> To: 'Team 3S'
> Subject: RE: Team3S: WAS anyone have any
complaints about the
> dynabatt?, NOW W eight Loss
>
>
*sigh* Remember my post yesterday about the rollbar/rollcage? As
soon
> as you put in race seats then you had better install a harness
since the
> stock seatbelt receptor goes with the stock seat unless you
remount it
> but no 3-point will hold you well in a race seat because you
sit down in
> a race seat and leave a 6"-8" gap to the belt that goes
across your
> waist.
>
> Driver seat weighs 60# (power
seat).
> Passenger seat weighs 40#.
> Rollbar weighs 60#.
>
Race seat weighs 15-25# (20# average).
> Safety harness is not enough to
worry about but a few pounds at most.
> One race seat and rollbar = (-60)
+ (-40) + 60 + 20 = (-20#) change.
> Two race seats and rollbar = 0#
change.
>
> --Flash!
> 1995 VR-4, rollbar, one race seat at
the ready, so a weight penalty of
> 20# for the race seat (rollbar and
driver seat offset each other)
>
> -----Original
Message-----
> From: Furman, Russell
> Sent: Thursday, February 28,
2002 14:32
>
> Erik about 40-45lbs of that is the jack and
spare AMHIK, also the
> complete
> rear seats are good for another
30+, and then of course swap out the
> stock
> driver's seat for a
Sparco/Corbeau 15-25lbs, Passenger seat swap to the
> same
> is good
for like 10-15 lbs. Thats just off the top of my head.......
>
> Can you say diet for our wonderful toys.
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 28 Feb 2002 14:07:40
-0600
From: "Willis, Charles E." <
cewillis@TexasChildrensHospital.org>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: M&S Recycling
Minimal problems getting my ECU from
them. We'll see if the core charge and
3si discount gets applied to my
credit card!
Chuck
> -----Original Message-----
> From:
Floyd, Jim [SMTP:Jim_Floyd@maxtor.com]
> Sent: Thursday, February 28, 2002
1:01 PM
> To:
Team3S@stealth-3000gt.st>
Subject: RE: Team3S: M&S Recycling
>
>
> No problems on
my transactions.
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: John
Stegall III [mailto:jstegall@programmer.net]
> Sent: Thursday, February
28, 2002 12:00 AM
> To:
Team3S@stealth-3000gt.st>
Subject: Team3S: M&S Recycling
>
>
> Has anyone here
done any work with M&S Recycling? They're a scrap yard
>
here
> in Pomona, Ca and they specialize in ONLY DSMs and
3000GTs/Stealths, it's
> all they carry. I've gone to the yard twice
now and they have tons of of
> our cars, N/A and turbo. I get an
email from them everytime they get in a
> new 3000GT/Stealth, and they
seem to have a lot of cars that are quite
> complete. I've seen a
few pairs of ball bearing turbos amongst quite a
> number of other parts
that I've thought about taking a look if they're in
> good condition and
the price is right, vs buying new. Just wondering if
> anyone on the
list has done any business with them and if their prices are
> decent and
if they're reputable. Thanks.
>
> John
> 1994 3000GT
VR-4
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 28 Feb 2002 20:19:23
+0000
From:
apedenko@attbi.comSubject: RE: Team3S:
WAS anyone have any complaints about the dynabatt?, N OW Weight
Loss
Wouldn't a CFDS also make a slight hp contribution?
It's like
getting lighter wheels - a smaller rotational
mass, less torque necessary to
get it goin'
Alex.
'95 vr4
> Yes, but Darren as soon
as you add a roll bar, the backseats now lose their
> mediocre
functionality in our cars..... Hence over all you lose 25 lbs.,
>
> and if you have money to burn, add to the list a CFDS another
20lb+ loss, a
> c/f hood 15lbs more. Anyone else have
suggestions
>
> > -----Original Message-----
> > From:
Darren Schilberg [SMTP:dschilberg@pobox.com]
> > Sent: Thursday,
February 28, 2002 2:53 PM
> > To: 'Team 3S'
> > Subject: RE:
Team3S: WAS anyone have any complaints about the
> > dynabatt?, NOW W
eight Loss
> >
> > *sigh* Remember my post yesterday
about the rollbar/rollcage? As soon
> > as you put in race seats
then you had better install a harness since the
> > stock seatbelt
receptor goes with the stock seat unless you remount it
> > but no
3-point will hold you well in a race seat because you sit down in
> > a
race seat and leave a 6"-8" gap to the belt that goes across your
> >
waist.
> >
> > Driver seat weighs 60# (power seat).
>
> Passenger seat weighs 40#.
> > Rollbar weighs 60#.
> >
Race seat weighs 15-25# (20# average).
> > Safety harness is not enough
to worry about but a few pounds at most.
> > One race seat and rollbar
= (-60) + (-40) + 60 + 20 = (-20#) change.
> > Two race seats and
rollbar = 0# change.
> >
> > --Flash!
> > 1995 VR-4,
rollbar, one race seat at the ready, so a weight penalty of
> > 20# for
the race seat (rollbar and driver seat offset each other)
> >
>
> -----Original Message-----
> > From: Furman, Russell
> >
Sent: Thursday, February 28, 2002 14:32
> >
> > Erik
about 40-45lbs of that is the jack and spare AMHIK, also the
> >
complete
> > rear seats are good for another 30+, and then of course
swap out the
> > stock
> > driver's seat for a Sparco/Corbeau
15-25lbs, Passenger seat swap to the
> > same
> > is good for
like 10-15 lbs. Thats just off the top of my head.......
> >
> > Can you say diet for our wonderful toys.
***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 28 Feb 2002 15:20:25
-0500
From: "Darren Schilberg" <
dschilberg@pobox.com>
Subject: RE:
Team3S: WAS anyone have any complaints about the dynabatt?, N OW Weight
Loss
No, Russell, you have the common misconception that everyone else
has.
A rollbar has almost no impact on the rear seat. What you are
thinking
about is the harness bar (horizontal bar) and/or the
diagonal
crossbrace. I believe Jim Berry has a rollbar and no
horizontal harness
bar but he does have a diagonal crossbrace. I don't
know what groups
allow this but those are options since it is all only bolts
holding it
together.
But don't go crying that you aren't allowed to
drive in a NASA HPDE
event with race seats, safety harness, but no
rollbar. I've spoken my
mind.
- --Flash!
- -----Original
Message-----
From: Furman, Russell [mailto:RFurman2@MassMutual.com]
Sent:
Thursday, February 28, 2002 14:59
Yes, but Darren as soon as you
add a roll bar, the backseats now lose
their
mediocre functionality in our
cars..... Hence over all you lose 25
lbs.,
and if you have
money to burn, add to the list a CFDS another 20lb+
loss, a
c/f hood 15lbs
more. Anyone else have suggestions
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 28 Feb 2002 14:26:15
-0600
From: "Jannusch, Matt" <
mjannusch@marketwatch.com>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: Weight Loss
> and if you have money to burn, add to
the list a CFDS
> another 20lb+ loss, a c/f hood 15lbs more. Anyone
else have
> suggestions
If you really want to save weight, why
have a passenger seat at all?
Depends on how far you are willing to go in
the name of weight versus
keeping your car looking/feeling nice and being
livable on the street.
If it is going to be a track only car, why not
strip it down?
A/C and heater stuff - 70 pounds?
Fuel tank conversion
- 50-70 pounds?
Carpet/sound deadening - 15 pounds?
Heat shields - 10
pounds
Cat to test pipe - 5 pounds
Lighter wheels/tires - 40-50
pounds?
Rear bumper - 40 pounds?
Front bumper - 40 pounds?
Seat belt
assy's - 30 pounds?
Dash and padding - 20 pounds?
Wipers/motors - 15
pounds?
Driving lights - 3 pounds?
Audio system - 15
pounds?
Glass/Lexan - 80 pounds?
CF driveshaft - 20 pounds
CF Hood - 20
pounds
Aluminum flywheel - 11 pounds
Race battery - 15
pounds
That's about 515 pounds worth, but some of that will come at a
high price.
- -Matt
'95 3000GT Spyder VR4
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 28 Feb 2002 15:31:01
-0500
From: "Furman, Russell" <
RFurman2@MassMutual.com>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: WAS anyone have any complaints about the dynabatt?, N OW Weight
Loss
Not arguing Darren more like asking, Where would you attach the 5
point
harness? I mean the shoulder straps have to attach somewhere.....
and
depending on where you attach them you will lose the back seat unless
you
feel like removing the 5 point harness when the car is not going to be
at
the track? Am I correct here?
Help me, show me pics
etc......
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Darren Schilberg
[SMTP:dschilberg@pobox.com]
> Sent: Thursday, February 28, 2002 3:20
PM
> To: 'Team 3S'
> Subject: RE: Team3S: WAS anyone have any
complaints about the
> dynabatt?, N OW Weight Loss
>
> No,
Russell, you have the common misconception that everyone else has.
> A
rollbar has almost no impact on the rear seat. What you are
thinking
> about is the harness bar (horizontal bar) and/or the
diagonal
> crossbrace. I believe Jim Berry has a rollbar and no
horizontal harness
> bar but he does have a diagonal crossbrace. I
don't know what groups
> allow this but those are options since it is all
only bolts holding it
> together.
>
> But don't go crying
that you aren't allowed to drive in a NASA HPDE
> event with race seats,
safety harness, but no rollbar. I've spoken my
> mind.
>
> --Flash!
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From:
Furman, Russell [mailto:RFurman2@MassMutual.com]
> Sent: Thursday,
February 28, 2002 14:59
>
> Yes, but Darren as soon as you
add a roll bar, the backseats now lose
> their
> mediocre
functionality in our cars..... Hence over all you lose 25
> lbs.,
>
> and if you have money to burn, add to the list a CFDS another
20lb+
> loss, a
> c/f hood 15lbs more. Anyone else have
suggestions
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 28 Feb 2002 15:32:46
-0500
From: "Furman, Russell" <
RFurman2@MassMutual.com>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: Weight Loss
Exactly my point, My thought process is to make
the car a "better" track car
while not sacrificing too much Daily Driver
Comfort...
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Jannusch, Matt
[SMTP:mjannusch@marketwatch.com]
> Sent: Thursday, February 28, 2002 3:26
PM
> To: 'Team 3S'
> Subject: RE: Team3S: Weight Loss
>
> > and if you have money to burn, add to the list a CFDS
> > another 20lb+ loss, a c/f hood 15lbs more. Anyone else have
> > suggestions
>
> If you really want to save weight,
why have a passenger seat at all?
>
> Depends on how far you are
willing to go in the name of weight versus
> keeping your car
looking/feeling nice and being livable on the street.
>
> If it is
going to be a track only car, why not strip it down?
>
> A/C and
heater stuff - 70 pounds?
> Fuel tank conversion - 50-70 pounds?
>
Carpet/sound deadening - 15 pounds?
> Heat shields - 10 pounds
> Cat
to test pipe - 5 pounds
> Lighter wheels/tires - 40-50 pounds?
>
Rear bumper - 40 pounds?
> Front bumper - 40 pounds?
> Seat belt
assy's - 30 pounds?
> Dash and padding - 20 pounds?
> Wipers/motors
- 15 pounds?
> Driving lights - 3 pounds?
> Audio system - 15
pounds?
> Glass/Lexan - 80 pounds?
> CF driveshaft - 20
pounds
> CF Hood - 20 pounds
> Aluminum flywheel - 11 pounds
>
Race battery - 15 pounds
>
> That's about 515 pounds worth, but
some of that will come at a high price.
>
> -Matt
> '95
3000GT Spyder VR4
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 28 Feb 2002 20:37:49
+0000
From:
apedenko@attbi.comSubject: RE: Team3S:
WAS anyone have any complaints about the dynabatt?, N OW Weight Loss
CFDS
- Carbon Fiber Drive Shaft
> What is a CFDS?
>
>
-----Original Message-----
> From:
owner-team3s@team3s.com
[mailto:owner-team3s@team3s.com] On Behalf
> Of
apedenko@attbi.com> Sent: Thursday,
February 28, 2002 15:19
> To: Furman, Russell
> Cc:
team3s@team3s.com> Subject: RE:
Team3S: WAS anyone have any complaints about the dynabatt?,
> N OW Weight
Loss
>
> Wouldn't a CFDS also make a slight hp contribution?
> It's like getting lighter wheels - a smaller rotational
> mass,
less torque necessary to get it goin'
>
> Alex.
>
> '95 vr4
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 28 Feb 2002 14:43:42
-0600
From: "Dustin Lenz" <
dustin_lenz@hotmail.com>
Subject:
Team3S: Suspension
I am looking to upgrade my suspension. My main reasons
for this in order of
importance to me are: ride height, hearing noises, and
performance. I have
searched the archives but need a tailored answer
and/or helpful tips. I
want to be able to adjust my ride height, am
going to be doing some auto x,
but also use this car as my daily
driver. I don't want to spend a ton of
money, but don't want to go the
cheapest route either. I was told Tein is
the way to go, but am
thinking this may be overkill since I'm honestly happy
with the way my car
handles now. I've noticed the discussion regarding sway
bar
replacement so I won't ask about that yet, but am thinking about that
swap
too. Can someone point me in a good direction, based on my values, and
needs?
Thanks,
Dustin/97VR4(ReD)
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 28 Feb 2002 16:05:40
-0500
From: "Darren Schilberg" <
dschilberg@pobox.com>
Subject: RE:
Team3S: WAS anyone have any complaints about the dynabatt?, N OW Weight
Loss
Russell,
I lost the good pics of my install but you can see
some once I find
them. I have some bad digital pics on my site of the
install and better
pics are on some Gathering pages. (One picture from
below is from Alan
Sheffield.)
Remember that nobody is allowed in the
back seat when you are on the
track so I don't know why you think the
shoulder harnesses of a 5-point
will get in the way. Jim Berry has
proven that a RoadRace Engineering
rear strut tower bar sufficiently holds a
safety harness (and he puts
some good force on it). Chris' rest strut
bar from TEC Performance will
also serve this purpose. Jim has some
pictures of his harness on his
rear strut tower bar.
Harness only goes
in with the harness bar. If you have people in the
backseat then you
won't be using the harness and therefore can take out
the harness
bar.
Once you know that your car is going to need a quick-change at the
track
you buy the "clip-in" hardware instead of the "bolt-in" hardware.
I
have bolt-in since I do not use the back seat for sitting
(only
storage). The clip-in version is like a carabiner in climbing and
clips
around an eyebolt and locks the gate shut. Total time to put in
clip-in
harness is about 2 minutes. Bolt-in is about 25 minutes
(depending on
your setup).
I never did a full write-up because the
interest on the list was nill as
nobody was putting in a correct set of
harnesses. I'm more than willing
but since the harness is not in the
car I can't take pictures of the
install. I'll find some pics from
earlier days.
Remember that some people can't pass inspection with a
5-point harness
and race seat so they have to put in the stock seat.
You start to know
what you have to take out and prepare for the track after
the first
three or four times of doing this and then the spouse starts
complaining
of more car parts in the Living Room (although watching road
racing in
the race seat is a superb experience).
- --Flash!
1995
VR-4 and rollbar with occasional harness mods for
Gatherings/Track
events
Picture of harness/race seat:
www.speedtoys.com/~dschilberg/cars/harness/harness.htmlhttp://mi3si.org/phproot/image.php?image=/gatherings/ecg2k1/jpgs/MVC-056F.JPG
Rollbar
install:
www.team3s.com/FAQrollbar.htmRollbar
page:
www.speedtoys.com/~dschilberg/cars/rollbar/rollbar.html-
-----Original Message-----
From: Furman, Russell
Sent: Thursday, February
28, 2002 15:31
Not arguing Darren more like asking, Where would you
attach the 5 point
harness? I mean the shoulder straps have to attach
somewhere..... and
depending on where you attach them you will lose the back
seat unless
you
feel like removing the 5 point harness when the car is not
going to be
at
the track? Am I correct here?
Help me, show me pics
etc......
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 28 Feb 2002 13:18:30
-0800
From: Chris Winkley <
cwinkley@plaza.ds.adp.com>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: Suspension
Dustin...
A spring change is the easiest
and least expensive way to lower your car
without "too" much stiffening. My
Eibach's dropped the car 1.125", while
another local VR4 owner used RSRs and
dropped nearly 2". Naturally, the
adjustable springs (Ground Control) offer a
range, but adjusting them isn't
a five minute affair. In terms of ride
comfort, my change to Eibach's felt
like the switch between tour and sport
mode with the ECS. Now, when it's in
sport mode it's definitely stiffer and I
feel every bump in the road. Still,
the cost was fairly low and I lowered the
center of gravity enough to make a
noticeable difference in handling. I now
have the full set of strut tower
and anti-sway bars, but have not yet
installed them. I doubt they will make
a difference in the comfort level of
the ride, but most certainly "should"
decrease the amount of body roll on a
3800 pound vehicle.
BTW...for those who are talking about ways to
decrease vehicle weight, it
might be worth noting that the strut bars and
anti-sway bars are going to
add some weight. Personally, considering I intend
to be able to keep a
streetable vehicle, I could probably net more by going
on a serious diet.
:-) My wife could make that run down the
1/4 mile with 80 pounds less
than me, without changing any other variable. If
we think back, that's why
jockey's (horse racing, not disc) were five feet
tall and weighed a hundred
pounds.
Looking forward...Chris
1995
Glacier Pearl White VR4 (w/custom K&N intake, bored and polished
throttle
body, TEC 15G turbos, RC 560cc injectors, HKS fuel pump, ARC2/MAF
fuel
controller, Split Second A/F meter, GReddy PRofec A boost controller,
Apex
EGT & boost gauges, GReddy turbo timer, HKS SBOV, custom
intercoolers,
Odyssey dry cell battery, Magnecore 8.5mm wires, NGK double
platinum plugs
gapped at .032", ACT 2800 lb pressure plate, Broward six puck
racing disc,
Centerforce throwout bearing, ATR downpipe and test pipe, GReddy
catback
exhaust, Stillen cross-drilled rotors, Porterfield R4 race pads, SS
brake
lines, Eibach 1" drop progressive springs, Michelin SX MXX3
Pilots)
- -----Original Message-----
From: Dustin Lenz
[mailto:dustin_lenz@hotmail.com]
Sent: Thursday, February 28, 2002 12:44
PM
To:
team3s@stealth-3000gt.stSubject:
Team3S: Suspension
I am looking to upgrade my suspension. My main reasons
for this in order of
importance to me are: ride height, hearing noises, and
performance. I have
searched the archives but need a tailored answer
and/or helpful tips. I
want to be able to adjust my ride height, am
going to be doing some auto x,
but also use this car as my daily
driver. I don't want to spend a ton of
money, but don't want to go the
cheapest route either. I was told Tein is
the way to go, but am
thinking this may be overkill since I'm honestly happy
with the way my
car handles now. I've noticed the discussion regarding sway
bar
replacement so I won't ask about that yet, but am thinking about that
swap
too. Can someone point me in a good direction, based on my values, and
needs?
Thanks,
Dustin/97VR4(ReD)
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 28 Feb 2002 13:49:17
-0800
From: Yoss <
yoss@aracnet.com>
Subject: Re: Team3S:
Suspension
Chris:
On Thu, Feb 28, 2002, Chris Winkley <
cwinkley@plaza.ds.adp.com>
wrote:
> A spring change is the easiest and least expensive way to lower
your car
> without "too" much stiffening. My Eibach's dropped the car
1.125", while
> another local VR4 owner used RSRs and dropped nearly 2".
Is that my car, or some other car you are referring to? I felt a
considerable
difference on the track between the stock springs and the RS*Rs
in my non-ecs
VR4, and I like the kind of feedback I get from the road,
compared to stock
setup.
> I now have the full set of strut tower
and anti-sway bars, but have not yet
> installed them. I doubt they will
make a difference in the comfort level of
> the ride, but most certainly
"should" decrease the amount of body roll on a
> 3800 pound vehicle.
I am really interested in getting a first-hand experience in the
difference
between stock anti-sway bars, and the news ones you are
installing.
When/Where are you getting them installed?
> If we
think back, that's why jockey's (horse racing, not disc) were five
> feet
tall and weighed a hundred pounds.
...and NASA chose a chimp to be the
first person in space (maybe for a
different reason, but nevertheless).
Talk about a weight saver there, and
one's extreme joy in watching a mustang
5.0 beaten at the dragstrip by a
souped-up VR4/TT being driven by a chimp. I
can already think up an
appropriate MasterCard commercial... :-)
-
-sankar
*******************************************************************************
Number
One, I have the distinct impression we are being toyed
with.
-- Picard, "The Survivors", stardate
43152.4
*******************************************************************************
***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 28 Feb 2002 13:59:55
-0800
From: "Gross, Erik" <
erik.gross@intel.com>
Subject:
Team3S: Rollbar/Harnesses WAS: Weight Loss
> I never did a full
write-up because the interest on the list
> was nill as nobody was
putting in a correct set of harnesses.
> I'm more than
willing
Where did you get that idea? 8) I, for one, would be
very interested since
that's on my list o' stuff to do this year. I
want to my car to be
drivable/safe/comfortable on the street and have some
upgraded stuff for the
track. Part of that upgraded stuff for the track
will include a rollbar,
race seats, and 5 or 6 point harnesses, since I hate
being sloshed around in
my seat at the track (especially auto-x). More
on that (sloshing) later.
Pictures, installation instructions, and/or
evaluations are most welcome. I
have an idea of what I'm leaning toward
(4pt, like Flash's autopower one),
but that's by no means written in
stone... I wanna do this right, BTW :)
- --Erik
***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 28 Feb 2002 17:22:22
-0500
From: "Darren Schilberg" <
dschilberg@pobox.com>
Subject: RE:
Team3S: Rollbar/Harnesses WAS: Weight Loss
Erik and Russell ... thanks
for the feedback. Consider the write-up on
the list.
And the
phrase is "set in stone" and "cast in concrete." Not sure what
you
would write in stone ... chisel maybe?
- --Flash!
www.speedtoys.com/~dschilberg
(not great stuff there now but maybe I'll
update the pages for us as the
season goes along)
- -----Original Message-----
From: Gross,
Erik
Sent: Thursday, February 28, 2002 17:00
> I never did a
full write-up because the interest on the list
> was nill as nobody was
putting in a correct set of harnesses.
> I'm more than
willing
Where did you get that idea? 8) I, for one, would be
very interested
since
that's on my list o' stuff to do this year. I
want to my car to be
drivable/safe/comfortable on the street and have some
upgraded stuff for
the
track. Part of that upgraded stuff for the
track will include a
rollbar,
race seats, and 5 or 6 point harnesses,
since I hate being sloshed
around in
my seat at the track (especially
auto-x). More on that (sloshing)
later.
Pictures, installation
instructions, and/or evaluations are most
welcome. I
have an idea of
what I'm leaning toward (4pt, like Flash's autopower
one),
but that's by
no means written in stone... I wanna do this right,
BTW
:)
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 28 Feb 2002 14:23:40
-0800
From: Chris Winkley <
cwinkley@plaza.ds.adp.com>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: Suspension
Sankar...
Yes, that was you I was referring
to. I still wish I had gotten the RSRs,
your car sits just enough lower that
it looks better. Considering that the
majority of my time is on the street or
on the strip (versus open track), I
have to admit that the handling was darn
good before I changed the springs.
So, like all mods, one needs to ask
oneself, what am I trying to accomplish?
How much is it worth in $$$ and
labor to take a tenth of a second off a 1/4
mile? Or, what's it worth to make
a lap a couple seconds faster? Or, is it
just about enjoying your
car???
As far as the when and where for the strut and anti-sway bars,
it's hard to
say. I'm working on my Master's degree right now, so I have even
less time
to tinker with the garage queen. I did, however, invest in a
SuperLift this
winter, so I now have a four car garage and the ability to
stand underneath
a car for jobs like the turbos and anti-sway bars. Worth
every penny (not to
mention Teri wasn't too happy about having her car in the
driveway while I
had three cars in the garage)!!! Now that I have the ARC2
tuned up and a new
clutch, I'm ready for the drags next month. BUT, on top of
10+ hour days at
work, school, and a family, I also have a fair amount of
travel planned this
year. Sooooo, I'm in no hurry, the bars won't help a bit
for the 1/4
mile...five gallons of 104 race fuel and 23 lbs of boost
will. :-)
Looking forward...Chris
1995 Glacier
Pearl White VR4 (w/custom K&N intake, bored and polished
throttle body,
TEC 15G turbos, RC 560cc injectors, HKS fuel pump, ARC2/MAF
fuel controller,
Split Second A/F meter, GReddy PRofec A boost controller,
Apex EGT &
boost gauges, GReddy turbo timer, HKS SBOV, custom intercoolers,
Odyssey dry
cell battery, Magnecore 8.5mm wires, NGK double platinum plugs
gapped at
.032", ACT 2800 lb pressure plate, Broward six puck racing disc,
Centerforce
throwout bearing, ATR downpipe and test pipe, GReddy catback
exhaust, Stillen
cross-drilled rotors, Porterfield R4 race pads, SS brake
lines, Eibach 1"
drop progressive springs, Michelin SX MXX3 Pilots)
- -----Original
Message-----
From: Yoss [mailto:yoss@aracnet.com]
Sent: Thursday, February
28, 2002 1:49 PM
To: Chris Winkley
Cc: 'Dustin Lenz';
team3s@stealth-3000gt.stSubject:
Re: Team3S: Suspension
Chris:
On Thu, Feb 28, 2002, Chris
Winkley <
cwinkley@plaza.ds.adp.com>
wrote:
> A spring change is the easiest and least expensive way to lower
your car
> without "too" much stiffening. My Eibach's dropped the car
1.125", while
> another local VR4 owner used RSRs and dropped nearly 2".
Is that my car, or some other car you are referring to? I felt
a
considerable
difference on the track between the stock springs and the
RS*Rs in my
non-ecs
VR4, and I like the kind of feedback I get from the
road, compared to stock
setup.
> I now have the full set of strut
tower and anti-sway bars, but have not
yet
> installed them. I doubt
they will make a difference in the comfort level
of
> the ride, but
most certainly "should" decrease the amount of body roll on
a
> 3800
pound vehicle.
I am really interested in getting a first-hand experience
in the difference
between stock anti-sway bars, and the news ones you are
installing.
When/Where are you getting them installed?
> If we
think back, that's why jockey's (horse racing, not disc) were five
> feet
tall and weighed a hundred pounds.
...and NASA chose a chimp to be the
first person in space (maybe for a
different reason, but nevertheless).
Talk about a weight saver there, and
one's extreme joy in watching a mustang
5.0 beaten at the dragstrip by a
souped-up VR4/TT being driven by a chimp. I
can already think up an
appropriate MasterCard commercial... :-)
-
-sankar
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 28 Feb 2002 17:55:34
-0500
From: "Darren Schilberg" <
dschilberg@pobox.com>
Subject:
Team3S: FW: 3S-Racers: Tein suspension
I sent this to the 3SRacers
list. Contact me if you have any more
questions.
-
--Flash!
1995 VR-4
- -----Original Message-----
From: Darren
Schilberg [mailto:dschilberg@pobox.com]
Sent: Thursday, February 14, 2002
00:34
To:
'3sracers@speedtoys.com'Subject:
RE: 3S-Racers: Tein suspension
I can't believe it is that cheap.
How long will it last (6 months or
just 1 or 2) before they get the summer
bulk of kids prepping the cars
and raise it to $1,700?
Also, does
anyone know if Tein is open to a higher spring rate as a
custom job or do
they not do that yet? I know they are smaller diameter
than stock but
as long as you call ... say ... Eibach and feed them the
spring ID, OD,
number of turns, etc. then they should be able to
hand-make one (albeit at a
higher price) but this would then be the best
of both worlds.
And Jim
Berry ... I'm still looking for someone with a 95 and power
sunroof to say
that any coilover EXCEPT the Tein HA fits perfectly
off-the-shelf. Look
below for what I found in all the main catalogs for
coilovers for our
car.
www.eibach.com
1991-1999 3000GT Base (2WD) (Exc. '95> w/ electric sunroof)
Pro-Kit 1.5" front 1.3" rear P/N 2813.140
1991-1999 3000GT VR-4 (AWD) (Exc. Spyder & '95> with
sunroof)
Pro-Kit 1.3" front 1.3" rear P/N
2811.140
1991-1999 3000GT SL (2WD) (Exc. Base model &
'95> w/sunroof)
Pro-Kit 1.0" front 1.2"
rear P/N2810.140
www.tirerack.com There are no
results found for a 1995 Mitsubishi 3000GT VR-4.
www.tokicogasshocks.com
Only cars listed are Eclipse, Galant, and Starion.
www.addco.net 1991-1996
Mitsubishi 3000GT (2WD) (which sounds a lot like they
copied
the Dodge Stealth line since the 3000GT was mostly unchanged
in
suspension to 1999 but the Stealth was no longer made after 1996).
www.intraxsuspension.com
Sorry, There are no coilovers for a 1995 Mitsubishi 3000GT VR-4.
www.koni-na.com Only cars
listed are Eclipse, Galant, and Mirage.
www.hrsprings.com (Springs
only I think but this is listed under the Coilover section
and
I don't understand how the 2WD in the first or second line can
include the turbo)
1991-99 3000GT (2WD) base
model incl turbo
1.0" front
1.0" rear P/N 52977 $329
1991-1999
3000GT (2WD) not base model incl
turbo
1.0" front 1.0" rear
P/N 52980 $329
1991-1999 3000GT VR-4
(4WD)
1.0" front 1.0" rear
P/N 52981 $329
www.tein.com 1991-1998 3000GT
VR-4 (listed in previous emails here but at least
they admit
they can fit my car)
- --Flash!
1995 VR-4 and power sunroof ...
unlucky in every regard
- -----Original Message-----
From: bob
atkins
Sent: Wednesday, February 13, 2002 23:23
It's a full set
for all four corners
g8rbob
- ----------
>From: "Darren
Schilberg" <
dschilberg@pobox.com>
>To:
<
3sracers@speedtoys.com>
>
Does the Tein HA (
http://www.tein.com/hadamp.html) come
for all four
> corners you said? I can't tell from the picture which
shows two
springs
> but says 4 main springs, etc.
>
>
-----Original Message-----
> From: bob atkins
> Sent: Wednesday,
February 13, 2002 22:19
>
> Darren,
> The stock HA set for our
cars has
> 12.0 kgf/mm or 671 lbs/in front main springs with 1.9 kgf/mm
helper
> springs
> 8.0 kgf/mm or 448 lbs/in rear main springs with
1.6 kgf/mm helper
> springs
>
> There are main spring options
for the front at 9.0, 10.0, and 14.0 and
> main spring options for the
rears at 6.0, 7.0, 9.0, and 10.0
> available from TEIN.
>
>
MSRP w/ Pillow Mounts is $1490 per
www.tein.com - I got mine for $1500
>
from
> Titan Motorsports - Orlando
www.titanmotorsports.com - ask for a
guy
> named
> "bottle' and tell him I sent ya.
>
> I
have spent a bit of time relating my Japanese/English (not much)
>
instructions with the websites. You might also use the
english
version
> of
>
www.tein.co.jp for reference.
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 28 Feb 2002 16:34:31
-0800
From: "Gross, Erik" <
erik.gross@intel.com>
Subject:
Team3S: Apparently My Synchros Are Still Good...
With all the talk about
bad Getrash synchros, I thought I'd share a good
experience, at least for the
synchro's performance...
I was accelerating around a sweeping uphill
left-hander in 3rd at about 85
or so a few days ago when I decided that was
fast enough. The corner
reminds me a little of coming out of the bottom
of the corkscrew at Laguna
Seca, but not as extreme. I was sloshing
around in my stock driver's seat a
bit, having to brace myself a little with
my hands on the wheel (not
consciously, but I was).
Some of you who
are insightful are appropriately cringing/grimacing at this
point, because
you know what happened.
I shifted to 4th so I could cruise up the hill at
not-so-high an RPM. The
shift felt relatively normal - maybe a tiny bit
more effort than usual - and
was completed without any complaints. I
then let the clutch out. I thought
I had shifted to 4th. ... I
hadn't. I was in the other 4th gear (a.k.a.
2nd) .... at 80mph or
so.
#$%#@$%#$%!!!!
Fortunately, on
the street, I almost never just side-step the clutch when
up/downshifting, so
as I was letting the clutch out, I felt way more
resistance than usual and
the engine started to rev higher than normal. I
immediately figured out
what I'd done and slammed the clutch back onto the
floor, found the "other
4th gear" and mentally kicked myself a few times.
I'm so glad I hadn't fully
released the clutch.
I smelled a bit of the notorious burnt clutch smell,
the tach never got over
7200-7300RPM (guess, from the corner of my eye), and
everything seems ok. I
don't think I did any damage. Glad I don't
have one of those 4-billion
pound pressure plates, that I know my car
reasonably well, and that I don't
normally shift too hard, or I'm afraid of
what might have happened :{
Yet more motivation to get those race seats
and the appropriate restraining
harnesses...
- --Erik
'95 VR-4 with
a little clutch wear and bruised driver's ego
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 28 Feb 2002 17:38:50
-0700
From: "Floyd, Jim" <
Jim_Floyd@maxtor.com>
Subject: RE:
Team3S: Apparently My Synchros Are Still Good...
I thought I was the only
one that did that.
- -----Original Message-----
From: Gross, Erik
[mailto:erik.gross@intel.com]
Sent: Thursday, February 28, 2002 5:35
PM
To: Team3S List (E-mail)
Subject: Team3S: Apparently My Synchros Are
Still Good...
With all the talk about bad Getrash synchros, I thought
I'd share a good
experience, at least for the synchro's
performance...
I was accelerating around a sweeping uphill left-hander in
3rd at about 85
or so a few days ago when I decided that was fast
enough. The corner
reminds me a little of coming out of the bottom of
the corkscrew at Laguna
Seca, but not as extreme. I was sloshing around
in my stock driver's seat a
bit, having to brace myself a little with my
hands on the wheel (not
consciously, but I was).
Some of you who are
insightful are appropriately cringing/grimacing at this
point, because you
know what happened.
I shifted to 4th so I could cruise up the hill at
not-so-high an RPM. The
shift felt relatively normal - maybe a tiny bit
more effort than usual - and
was completed without any complaints. I
then let the clutch out. I thought
I had shifted to 4th. ... I
hadn't. I was in the other 4th gear (a.k.a.
2nd) .... at 80mph or
so.
#$%#@$%#$%!!!!
Fortunately, on
the street, I almost never just side-step the clutch when
up/downshifting, so
as I was letting the clutch out, I felt way more
resistance than usual and
the engine started to rev higher than normal. I
immediately figured out
what I'd done and slammed the clutch back onto the
floor, found the "other
4th gear" and mentally kicked myself a few times.
I'm so glad I hadn't fully
released the clutch.
I smelled a bit of the notorious burnt clutch smell,
the tach never got over
7200-7300RPM (guess, from the corner of my eye), and
everything seems ok. I
don't think I did any damage. Glad I don't
have one of those 4-billion
pound pressure plates, that I know my car
reasonably well, and that I don't
normally shift too hard, or I'm afraid of
what might have happened :{
Yet more motivation to get those race seats
and the appropriate restraining
harnesses...
- --Erik
'95 VR-4 with
a little clutch wear and bruised driver's ego
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 28 Feb 2002 18:56:08
-0600
From: "Jannusch, Matt" <
mjannusch@marketwatch.com>
Subject:
Team3S: It LIVES!!!
The Spyder returned to life tonight!
Woo-hoo!!!
There's a little bit of stuff to do yet (put the hood back on,
battery tray,
vacuum reservoir, underpanels, wheels, some interior panels,
downpipe, etc).
But it works! It has oil pressure, all the sensors
work, no Check Engine
light... I ran it for maybe 20 minutes or so to
let the oil on the
manifolds and such burn off. Soon it'll be ready to
drive... Sweet!
It took a couple steps backwards - I put in the
360cc injectors and it has
no fuel controller on it right now. I wanted
to break it in like stock and
not have to worry about programming the PMS
just to get it running right.
I'll probably put on a couple thousand miles,
switch to synthetic oil and
swap the injectors and PMS back in at that
point.
- -Matt
'95 3000GT Spyder VR4
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 28 Feb 2002 16:57:34
-0800
From: Yoss <
yoss@aracnet.com>
Subject: Re: Team3S:
Apparently My Synchros Are Still Good...
On Thu, Feb 28, 2002, Gross,
Erik <
erik.gross@intel.com>
wrote:
> I shifted to 4th so I could cruise up the hill at not-so-high an
RPM. The
> shift felt relatively normal - maybe a tiny bit more
effort than usual - and
> was completed without any complaints. I
then let the clutch out. I thought
> I had shifted to 4th. ...
I hadn't. I was in the other 4th gear (a.k.a.
> 2nd) .... at
80mph or so.
#$%#@$%#$%!!!!
A
sure-shot way to avoid this (atleast it's been working like a charm for
me)
is to always find the 5th - the safest gear to shift up to under
spirited
driving.
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 28 Feb 2002 19:02:40
-0600
From: "Jannusch, Matt" <
mjannusch@marketwatch.com>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: Apparently My Synchros Are Still Good...
> Fortunately, on
the street, I almost never
> just side-step the clutch when
up/downshifting,
> so as I was letting the clutch out, I felt
> way
more resistance than usual and the engine
> started to rev higher than
normal. I
> immediately figured out what I'd done and
>
slammed the clutch back onto the floor, found
> the "other 4th gear" and
mentally kicked myself
> a few times. I'm so glad I hadn't fully
>
released the clutch.
I'm not quite as careful on the street... I
don't drop the clutch, but I
shift quick enough that there isn't any time to
realize that something's
wrong if I grabbed the wrong gear. I've
grabbed 1st instead of 3rd once in
the current car and once in the old
'94. Both times the tach was beyond
8000 RPM and both times the
motors/trannys were undamaged (thankfully!).
I think it happens because
of the mushy rubber bushings on the shifter plate
and cables. There's
enough play there where if you shift aggressively
enough the gears don't
locate precisely. That's my theory anyway - it could
be that sometimes
I forget how to shift, too. :-) Luckily it doesn't
happen
often.
- -Matt
'95 3000GT Spyder VR4
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 28 Feb 2002 17:03:59
-0800
From: "dakken" <
dougusmagnus@attbi.com>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Suspension
> I am looking to upgrade my suspension. My
main reasons for this in order
of
> importance to me are: ride height,
hearing noises, and performance. I
have
> searched the archives
but need a tailored answer and/or helpful tips. I
> want to be able
to adjust my ride height, am going to be doing some auto
x,
> but also
use this car as my daily driver. I don't want to spend a ton of
>
money, but don't want to go the cheapest route either. I was told Tein
is
> the way to go, but am thinking this may be overkill since I'm
honestly
happy
> with the way my car handles now. I've noticed
the discussion regarding
sway
> bar replacement so I won't ask about
that yet, but am thinking about that
> swap too. Can someone point me in a
good direction, based on my values,
and
> needs?
The best thing
for you to do is go to the local book store and buy a book on
car suspension
modifications. I have one called "How to Make Your Car
Handle," by Fred
Puhn. Excellent book! It tells you what to do, what not
to do and
how it will affect your handling and ride comfort. Many of
the
modifications that he recommends are cheap to free (such as how to
properly
adjust the suspension you have for best results). One low cost
way to
corner better that is recommended in the book is simply to replace
the
rubber bushing on your anti sway bars with solid or polyurithane
bushing.
Don't go into this blind or you could end up blowing a lot of money
and
still not being happy.
Doug
92 Stealth RT TT
***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 28 Feb 2002 19:10:52
-0600
From: "Jannusch, Matt" <
mjannusch@marketwatch.com>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: Suspension
> One low cost way to corner better that
is
> recommended in the book is simply to replace
> the rubber
bushing on your anti sway bars with
> solid or polyurithane
bushing.
I'll second that recommendation! It made a world of
difference on my
Eclipse. Turn-in and cornering was much quicker and a
lot more precise.
A while back someone was donating their car to Energy
Suspension to make
bushings, did anything ever come out of that? I'd
really like to get a full
set, but I haven't seen them in their catalogs or
available anywhere.
I'm still convinced that some of the 1G Eclipse
bushings will fit our
suspension components. Maybe I'll try it after my
wallet recovers from the
rebuild...
- -Matt
'95 3000GT Spyder
VR4
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 28 Feb 2002 20:31:47
-0500
From: "Darren Schilberg" <
dschilberg@pobox.com>
Subject:
Team3S: NASA car classification
Since some of you do NASA events
throughout the year I thought I would
let you know where our car is
classified if you ever have thoughts of
competing in any NASA
competition.
A VR-4 in stock trim and on DOT tires would be in the PSO
classification
(ITE equivalent) for any NASA racing (Time Trials, Solo I,
etc.).
Assuming you meet their safety requirements of a rollcage, etc.
If you
put slicks on then you are up against the Trans-Am, Winston Cup,
and
Super Trucks.
Nice to know that even though we never see another
one of us on the
track we still scare the bajeezus out of the
organizers. It would be
fun to mix it up with some of those
cars.
- --Flash!
Proud driver of a 1995 VR-4 which is one of the cars
still illegal and
banned for SCCA competition ... god I love it
-
-----Original Message-----
Sent: Thursday, February 28, 2002
19:52
Subject: RE: Car classification
Do you have a street car or a
fully prepared race car?
If race car you would be Super Unlimited 1 on
race slicks or PS0 (ITE
equivalent) on DOT tires.
Jim Politi
Race
Director, NASA Virginia Region
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 28 Feb 2002 20:06:41
-0600
From: "Willis, Charles E." <
cewillis@TexasChildrensHospital.org>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: Apparently My Synchros Are Still Good...
I usually downshift
from 5th inadvertantly into 2nd. Same, same, sh&t.
>
-----Original Message-----
> From: Floyd, Jim
[SMTP:Jim_Floyd@maxtor.com]
> Sent: Thursday, February 28, 2002 6:39
PM
> To: Team3S List (E-mail)
> Subject: RE: Team3S: Apparently My
Synchros Are Still Good...
>
>
> I thought I was the only
one that did that.
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From:
Gross, Erik [mailto:erik.gross@intel.com]
> Sent: Thursday, February 28,
2002 5:35 PM
> To: Team3S List (E-mail)
> Subject: Team3S:
Apparently My Synchros Are Still Good...
>
>
> With all the
talk about bad Getrash synchros, I thought I'd share a good
> experience,
at least for the synchro's performance...
>
> I was accelerating
around a sweeping uphill left-hander in 3rd at about 85
> or so a few days
ago when I decided that was fast enough. The corner
> reminds me a
little of coming out of the bottom of the corkscrew at Laguna
> Seca, but
not as extreme. I was sloshing around in my stock driver's seat
>
a
> bit, having to brace myself a little with my hands on the wheel
(not
> consciously, but I was).
>
> Some of you who are
insightful are appropriately cringing/grimacing at
> this
> point,
because you know what happened.
>
> I shifted to 4th so I could
cruise up the hill at not-so-high an RPM. The
> shift felt
relatively normal - maybe a tiny bit more effort than usual -
>
and
> was completed without any complaints. I then let the clutch
out. I
> thought
> I had shifted to 4th. ... I
hadn't. I was in the other 4th gear (a.k.a.
> 2nd) .... at
80mph or so.
#$%#@$%#$%!!!!
>
> Fortunately, on the street, I almost never just side-step the clutch
when
> up/downshifting, so as I was letting the clutch out, I felt way
more
> resistance than usual and the engine started to rev higher than
normal. I
> immediately figured out what I'd done and slammed the
clutch back onto the
> floor, found the "other 4th gear" and mentally
kicked myself a few times.
> I'm so glad I hadn't fully released the
clutch.
>
> I smelled a bit of the notorious burnt clutch smell,
the tach never got
> over
> 7200-7300RPM (guess, from the corner of
my eye), and everything seems ok.
> I
> don't think I did any
damage. Glad I don't have one of those 4-billion
> pound pressure
plates, that I know my car reasonably well, and that I
> don't
>
normally shift too hard, or I'm afraid of what might have happened :{
>
> Yet more motivation to get those race seats and the appropriate
>
restraining
> harnesses...
>
> --Erik
> '95 VR-4 with a
little clutch wear and bruised driver's ego
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 28 Feb 2002 19:53:49
-0700
From: "Thomas Jeys" <
tj@jeys.net>
Subject: RE:Team3S: Fog Light
bulb replacement
Okay,
Mitsubishi lighting engineers are
idiots. You know what I mean if you've
ever tried to change the bulb of
one of the 1g popup type headlights. And
now I'm getting the wonderful
experience of trying to change the fog light
bulb. What a pain!!
As best I can see, the whole front of the car has to
come off! The
plastic piece on the front of the car has about 90 screws or
bolts holding it
on, as I see it only about 15 of them are necessary. Has
anyone else
tried this? Am I missing something very obvious?
T.J. 1992 3000GT
VR-4
tj@jeys.netPS: Does it seem
like mitsubishi has "special" engineers day? Have the good
engineers
come in and design the engine then have the morons design
everything
else?
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 28 Feb 2002 19:16:34
-0800
From: "fastmax" <
fastmax@cox.net>
Subject: Team3S: TMO
datalogger
A guy has a datalogger for sale on the parts
trader.
http://www.thepartstrader.com/adlayout.cfm?PCID=106&DCID=127&C2ID=1003&Display=Full***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
End of Team3S: 3000GT &
Stealth V1
#768
***************************************