Team3S: 3000GT & Stealth Wednesday, February 27 2002 Volume 01 :
Number
767
----------------------------------------------------------------------
Date:
Tue, 26 Feb 2002 18:49:36 -0800
From: "Bob Forrest" <
bf@bobforrest.com>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: Rear Differential - Any recalls?
>
Folks:
> The rear differential has sprung a
leak. This is the second time it's
happened in five years. I'd
like to find out if there are any recalls w.r.t
the differential (seals,
parts, etc.) Is there a recall/TSB database that I
can query to get
this information? I'm also going to call the local dealer,
but I'm not
sure if they would report TSBs...
> Thanks!
> -sankar
> '97
VR4
- ---------------------------->
www.Team3S.com/FAQrecall-tsb.htm***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 26 Feb 2002 21:55:21
-0000
From: "Sam Shelat" <
sshelat@erols.com>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: The $50 Iowa mod.
ere
>the tires and remember that the
G-Tech Pro starts timing the instant it
>senses a change in movement and
not when the green light on the
>Christmas Tree lights up ... chalk up
another 0.450 seconds to
>everything for a near-perfect
launch.
>
Last time I went to the drags, the reaction time didn't
equate into the ET.
I beleive its just the time it takes for you to break the
staging beam and
cross the traps that are considered in your final 1/4 mile
time. Thats
exactly what the G-tech tries to emulate by reacting when
movement starts.
Sam
*** Info:
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------------------------------
Date: Tue, 26 Feb 2002 22:16:24
-0000
From: "Sam Shelat" <
sshelat@erols.com>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: The $50 Iowa mod.
Actually, low 12s with 9bs is very possible and
can be done by anyone who
can drive the car worth a darn and has the right
mods. What is needed above
and beyond BPU mods would be ported
upper/lower plenum, race gas to boost
above 15psi safely, and some slightly
larger injectors and a fuel computer
to tune it in. Drop some weight,
and you may very well be in the 11s.
However, its much easier and cheaper to
just get a pair of 13g or larger
turbos, larger injectors and a VPC or ArcII
to control them. Eclipses are
lighter, can be boosted a bit higher
without knock, and have 1 of everything
instead of two like our cars, so are
much cheaper to mod. I could get
anybodys healthy second gen VR-4/TT
into the twelves for about $1000 going
the cheap way or about $1500 the more
expensive way, so 12s are quite easy.
As for the track guys not needing more
power---I guess you guys never get
above 100mph on the track. As my car
stands right now, it can do high to
mid 12s, but its a dog up top above
120mph. If you can outhandle the other
guys in the twisties, I would
expect they could kill you guys in the
straights. I figure any "race"
car with our drivetrain loss could use
another 80-100
horse.
Sam
*** Info:
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------------------------------
Date: Tue, 26 Feb 2002 21:34:04
-0600
From: "
merritt@cedar-rapids.net" <
merritt@cedar-rapids.net>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: The $50 Iowa mod.
>As for the track guys not needing more
power---I guess you guys never get
>above 100mph on the track. As my
car stands right now, it can do high to
>mid 12s, but its a dog up top
above 120mph.
Sheesh. I love the 3-4 upshift at 110 or so, where it
kicks you back in the seat. Best I've ever done is about 130 at Road America
coming into Canada Corner. We regularly touch 110-120 at most courses.
If you can outhandle the other
>guys in the twisties, I
would expect they could kill you guys in the
>straights. I figure
any "race" car with our drivetrain loss could use
>another 80-100
horse.
>
What I meant (about a boost controller not helping) is that
JUST a boost controller doesn't appear to give all that much more power in a
road race situation. I can hang with other boost controlled 3000GTs just fine
with my Alamos and cat back, although they do pull away down the straights. They
will probably nip me by a half-second or more in a 1/4, but it just doesn't seem
to make all that much difference between otherwise equal cars on a road course.
Every little bit always helps, of course.
And of course we all want 100
more horsepower to keep up with Vipers, Z06s, Cobra Rs and all those super cars.
Where I'm doing 130 at RA, they are coming up in my mirrors at about
170.
Rich/more power!!>
*** Info:
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------------------------------
Date: Wed, 27 Feb 2002 00:50:37
-0600
From: "Todd D.Shelton" <
tds@brightok.net>
Subject: Re: Team3S:
Fog Light bulb replacement
- -----Original Message-----
From: P N
Sankarshanan <
yoss@aracnet.com>
To: Mike Frey <
mike21b@ptd.net>
Cc: 3kgt <
Team3S@stealth-3000gt.st>
Date:
Tuesday, February 26, 2002 8:06 PM
Subject: Re: Team3S: Fog Light bulb
replacement
>This is one of the easiest things to do. Even I was
able to figure it out!
I
>just replaced mine recently. The
replacement bulbs are H3-55W (Type H3,
with
>55watt rating. They
run about $5.50 at NAPA.)
-
---------------------------------------------------------------------------
Thanks
for the info. I need to change mine in order to better
match my new HID
conversion. (the real McCoy) The stock
fogs (StealthTT) suddenly look
"yellowish".
I thought the stock wattage was 35 watts? 55 would be
great
as long as there are no problems with heat or wire size.
What
I *really* need is something much *whiter*. (not blue)
Do
the NAPA bulbs seem to have a whiter color than stock?
Perhaps the higher
wattage makes them appear so?
Thanks again,
-
tds
*** Info:
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***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 26 Feb 2002 23:15:53
-0800
From: Yoss <
yoss@aracnet.com>
Subject: Re: Team3S:
Fog Light bulb replacement
On Wed, Feb 27, 2002, Todd D.Shelton <
tds@brightok.net> wrote:
> Do the
NAPA bulbs seem to have a whiter color than stock?
> Perhaps the higher
wattage makes them appear so?
The stock bulbs are rated at 55
watts. The NAPA bulbs are the old-style
"yellow." You may want to
check other places such as
http://www.nopionline.com for
bright-whites. They have a few bulbs that are rated "H-3 55W=120W."
I
have no idea what that means. My guess is that these are rated at
55W, but
are bright enough to an equivalent 120W blub?
-
-sankar
- --
*******************************************************************************
Data:
"There may be a relationship between humor and sex which I am not
aware
of."
- --Data, "Data's Day", Stardate
44
*******************************************************************************
***
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***
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 27 Feb 2002 23:44:33
+1300
From: "Steve Cooper" <
scooper@paradise.net.nz>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Gtech Pro
I thought the Gtech did 400m not 1/4
mile.
Steve
*** Info:
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------------------------------
Date: Wed, 27 Feb 2002 06:59:09
-0500
From: "Furman, Russell" <
RFurman2@MassMutual.com>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: Fog Light bulb replacement
Hey Todd trie PIAA or CATZ they
both make a "hyper white" (its not ricey
blue) bulb. I have no
complaints just wish I had a 94 so I could get HID's
hmm....... car is
broken 94-96 Front conversion while its down...
- -----Original
Message-----
From: Todd D.Shelton
Sent: Wed 2/27/2002 1:50 AM
To:
Cc: 3kgt
Subject: Re: Team3S: Fog Light bulb replacement
-
-----Original Message-----
From: P N Sankarshanan <
yoss@aracnet.com>
To: Mike Frey <
mike21b@ptd.net>
Cc: 3kgt <
Team3S@stealth-3000gt.st>
Date: Tuesday, February 26, 2002 8:06 PM
Subject: Re: Team3S: Fog Light
bulb replacement
>This is one of the easiest things to do. Even
I was able to figure it out!
I
>just replaced mine recently.
The replacement bulbs are H3-55W (Type H3,
with
>55watt rating.
They run about $5.50 at NAPA.)
-
---------------------------------------------------------------------------
Thanks for the info. I need to change mine in order to better
match my new HID conversion. (the real McCoy) The stock
fogs
(StealthTT) suddenly look "yellowish".
I thought the stock wattage was
35 watts? 55 would be great
as long as there are no problems with heat
or wire size. What
I *really* need is something much *whiter*.
(not blue)
Do the NAPA bulbs seem to have a whiter color than stock?
Perhaps the higher wattage makes them appear so?
Thanks again,
- tds
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 27 Feb 2002 13:58:56
+0100
From: Roger Gerl <
roger.gerl@bluewin.ch>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Gtech Pro
There are two versions ! US does 1/4 mile and 0-60
International does 400m
and 0-100km/h
Roger
93'3000GT TT
www.rtec.chAt 23:44 27.02.2002 +1300,
Steve Cooper wrote:
>I thought the Gtech did 400m not 1/4
mile.
>
>Steve
*** Info:
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------------------------------
Date: Wed, 27 Feb 2002 08:09:38
-0500
From: "Darren Schilberg" <
dschilberg@pobox.com>
Subject: RE:
Team3S: Fog Light bulb replacement
Remember that what our car calls the
Fog light is actually the Driving
light. And if you are putting in HID
headlights then you probably won't
need a set of driving lights. I
suggest putting in actual fog lights
for those times when you have fog or
rain or snow to look at. HID bulbs
will be murder in fog.
And to
*add* fog lights to a set of driving lights is even easier since
you can
tape, Velcro, or just screw them in place wherever is most
convenient.
I've seen some nice mods done with lights that flood the
ground with light
and reach quite far. Just be sure not to aim them too
high.
-
--Flash!
1995 VR-4
- -----Original Message-----
From: P N
Sankarshanan
Sent: Tuesday, February 26, 2002 21:04
This is one
of the easiest things to do. Even I was able to figure it
out! I
just replaced mine recently. The replacement bulbs are H3-55W
(Type H3,
with 55watt rating. They run about $5.50 at NAPA.)
***
Info:
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***
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 27 Feb 2002 08:44:59
US/Central
From:
tds@brightok.netSubject: RE: Team3S: Fog
Light bulb replacement
> Hey Todd trie PIAA or CATZ they both make a
"hyper white" (its not ricey
> blue) bulb. I have no
complaints just wish I had a 94 so I could get HID's
> hmm.......
car is broken 94-96 Front conversion while its down...
>
-
----------------------------------------------------------------
If they
sell just the H3 bulb and the wattage isn't too
high then maybe that would
have a whiter color? But
the blue coated bulbs are total crap.
I
tried a "hyper white" H7 bulb on my Hayabusa
and it was coated in blue which
*reduced* lumen
rating and was worse than clear visibilty wise.
The
coating ended up flaking/falling off anyway ....
I don't want to change
the current large stock setup
as I really like the stock housings.
They provide
additional visiblity to other drivers. With
the HID
conversion, they aren't needed at all
for my own need of visibilty. I
have found that
they do help aid other drivers notice of me and
anything
that helps to prevent someone from pulling
out in front of me at close
distance is good in my
book. I just need a whiter bulb output for the
fogs to
match up better with the HID setup.
I've heard the 94+ models
are actually more difficult
when it comes to HID conversion. I
already had the
Hella European H4 conversion, so it was a snap to
convert
to true HID and the cutoff pattern is much
better than US DOT which is more
important with HID ....
First gen can convert to H4 very easily and I
took
advantage of that back around 95' or so with higher
wattage clear H4
Hella bulbs but HID is another level
entirely ....
- -
tds
-
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------------------------------
Date: Wed, 27 Feb 2002 09:52:55
-0500
From: "Furman, Russell" <
RFurman2@MassMutual.com>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: Fog Light bulb replacement
Actually there is a HID set up
specifically designed for the 94+ cars, Its
uses the proper style bulb (D or
S, I do know what the difference is) and is
meant to work with the stock
housing. I believe it is made by Phoenix
Microlite, I would get the 94
housing b/c it has a glass front versus the
plastic/lexan.
Also why
not get some hid driving lights with a properly adjusted beam now
that would
be something. Try this link below and clink on the Raybrig link
on the
side bar
http://www.autonetperformance.com/>
-----Original Message-----
> From:
tds@brightok.net
[SMTP:tds@brightok.net]
> Sent: Wednesday, February 27, 2002 3:45
AM
> To: Furman, Russell; Todd D.Shelton;
Team3S@stealth-3000gt.st>
Subject: RE: Team3S: Fog Light bulb replacement
>
> > Hey Todd
trie PIAA or CATZ they both make a "hyper white" (its not ricey
> >
blue) bulb. I have no complaints just wish I had a 94 so I could
get
> HID's
> > hmm....... car is broken 94-96 Front
conversion while its down...
> >
>
----------------------------------------------------------------
>
> If they sell just the H3 bulb and the wattage isn't too
> high
then maybe that would have a whiter color? But
> the blue coated
bulbs are total crap.
>
> I tried a "hyper white" H7 bulb on my
Hayabusa
> and it was coated in blue which *reduced* lumen
> rating
and was worse than clear visibilty wise.
> The coating ended up
flaking/falling off anyway ....
>
> I don't want to change the
current large stock setup
> as I really like the stock housings.
They provide
> additional visiblity to other drivers. With
>
the HID conversion, they aren't needed at all
> for my own need of
visibilty. I have found that
> they do help aid other drivers notice
of me and
> anything that helps to prevent someone from pulling
>
out in front of me at close distance is good in my
> book. I just
need a whiter bulb output for the fogs to
> match up better with the HID
setup.
>
> I've heard the 94+ models are actually more
difficult
> when it comes to HID conversion. I already had the
> Hella European H4 conversion, so it was a snap to
> convert to
true HID and the cutoff pattern is much
> better than US DOT which is more
important with HID ....
>
> First gen can convert to H4 very
easily and I took
> advantage of that back around 95' or so with
higher
> wattage clear H4 Hella bulbs but HID is another level
>
entirely ....
>
> -
> tds
>
>
---------------------------------------------
> This message was sent
using BrightNet MailMan.
>
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------------------------------
Date: Wed, 27 Feb 2002 08:58:15
US/Central
From:
tds@brightok.netSubject: Re: Team3S:
Gtech Pro
> There are two versions ! US does 1/4 mile and 0-60
International does 400m
> and 0-100km/h
>
> Roger
>
93'3000GT TT
>
www.rtec.ch-
-----------------------------------------------
There is also now a new/2nd
version of the Gtech Pro.
It's the race version and it uses 4 accelerometers
and
provides additional data versus the original version.
Summitt
Racing now has them listed in their catalog.
But it's also larger and
wouldn't fit in my AC vent
the way the original does. :) It also
appears to be
LCD versus the original's LED output ....
- -
dts
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------------------------------
Date: Wed, 27 Feb 2002 07:04:29
-0800
From: "fastmax" <
fastmax@cox.net>
Subject: Re: Team3S:
Fog Light bulb replacement
Todd --- take a look at this guys web page or
ask him your question.
His site is pretty informative.
http://lighting.mbz.org/
Jim Berry
========================================
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------------------------------
Date: Wed, 27 Feb 2002 07:13:54
-0800 (PST)
From: Jeff Lucius <
stealthman92@yahoo.com>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: turbo spooling, too slow?
Ken,
I recently performed
two roll-on acceleration tests here in Colorado
(12 psi atm, cool day) with
my TEC 15G turbos (engine mods listed at
my web site). Starting at a 2000 RPM
cruising speed I floored it in
2nd gear and then in 3rd gear. In both gears,
by 3000 RPM boost was
limited by the BC to about 16 psi. I am not sure at
what RPM "max
boost" could be achieved with my setup under these test
conditions,
but 15 psi was easily achieved by 3000 RPM.
There is no
"break-in" period for turbos that I am aware of that will
affect "spool
up".
http://www.geocities.com/lutransys/jlucius5/j5-2-3s-compflowmaps.htmhttp://www.geocities.com/lutransys/jlucius2/j2-2-turboguide.htmJeff
Lucius,
http://www.stealth316.com/- -----
Original Message -----
From: "Ken Middaugh" <
kmiddaugh@ixpres.com>
To: "Team3S
(E-mail)" <
Team3S@stealth-3000gt.st>
Sent:
Monday, February 25, 2002 9:23 PM
Subject: Team3S: turbo spooling, too
slow?
Hi folks,
I have 1500 miles or so on my new 13G turbos and
new engine. I also
have gutted precats, but the stock downpipe, main
cat, and exhaust.
I was expecting the new 13G's with gutted precats to spool
up to 15
psi almost as fast as the 9B's with intact precats, i.e. 15
psi
around 3100 RPM. However, my 13G's don't see 15 psi until about
4000
RPM. In numerous posts in the past, folks have mentioned that
the
13G & 15G "spool almost as quickly" as the 9B. This is not what
I'm
currently experiencing! Does this spooling seem correct? Will
the
spoolup time get quicker as the turbos "break-in" some
more?
Thanks,
Ken
*** Info:
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------------------------------
Date: Wed, 27 Feb 2002 09:30:09
-0600
From: "cody" <
overclck@satx.rr.com>
Subject: RE:
Team3S: SS brake lines for the NA
Since it seems no one else wanted to
answer your question cause they
were too busy arguing about how much it costs
to make a DSM run high
13's for $50 and VR4's in the 11's for
similar....
Anyways... Talk to Geoff Mohler... I got my SS brake
lines from him...
All are the same - for all models 3000GT/Stealth... I
love them...
Cost was around $150 I think...
- -Cody
-
-----Original Message-----
From:
owner-team3s@team3s.com
[mailto:owner-team3s@team3s.com] On Behalf
Of ek2mfg
Sent: Tuesday,
February 26, 2002 12:56 PM
To:
team3S@stealth-3000gt.stSubject:
Team3S: SS brake lines for the NA
Does any one where you can SS brake
lines for an NA....that has them
in stock right NOW? It would appear that
everyone is on somekind of 3
week period for getting them that has lasted
about 6 weeks now.
I really want to finish this conversion only want to
open my brake
system once.
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------------------------------
Date: Wed, 27 Feb 2002 10:36:53
-0500
From: "Mihai Raicu" <
mraicu@wayne.edu>
Subject: RE: Team3S:
The $50 Iowa mod
Rich,
My brother and I also have a Gteck Pro, and
Matt is right: " I'd take
those times with a grain of salt." You can
only compare Gteck numbers
to Gteck numbers. You cannot compare them to
1/4 mile drag strip
numbers. From my calculations, the time is
accurate; however, on TT/VR4
the MPH is optimistic.
- -MIHAI-
95
Red VR4
PS. Don't ever let anyone drive your car like that.
So far no one has
driven my VR4 aside from my brother (owns a TT) and my dad
twice. Maybe
I would let a VR4/TT owner drive my car around the block
after I see how
they drive their car and shift gears, but not launch
it. There would
have to be a purpose for me to let them drive it such
as handling
issues, noises, etc... What is the point of having someone
else obtain
a higher 1/4 mile? When the driver is the limiting factor,
might as
well test it that way, because that's what's really going to happen
in
real life. To put it in other words, "I DON'T TRUST ANYONE MORE
THAN
MYSELF WHEN IT COMES TO DRIVING MY CAR." Maybe it sounds a
bit
arrogant, but it works.
>Date: Mon, 25 Feb 2002 23:25:22
-0600
>From: "Jannusch, Matt" <
mjannusch@marketwatch.com>
>Subject:
RE: Team3S: The $50 Iowa mod.
>> Today, we had a chance to do a
baseline check to
>> see how we're doing. Here are the results
of
>> four consecutive passes on a G-Tech:
>
>> 1.
13.93 @ 101.8
>> 2. 14.39 @ 96.1
>> 3. 14.05 @
99.1
>> 4. 13.78 @ 104.2
>
>I'd take those times with
a grain of salt. The ET's don't match the
MPH -
***
Info:
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------------------------------
Date: Wed, 27 Feb 2002 09:37:39
-0600
From: "Black, Dave (ICT)" <
dblai@allstate.com>
Subject: RE:
Team3S: Rear Differential - Any recalls?
Hi Sankar,
Check also on
http://www.alldata.com/recalls/index.html.
Dave
95VR4
http://www.daveblack.net>
-----Original Message-----
> From: P N Sankarshanan
[SMTP:yoss@aracnet.com]
> Sent: Tuesday, February 26, 2002 7:43 PM
>
To: 3kgt
> Subject: Team3S: Rear Differential - Any recalls?
>
> Folks:
>
> The rear differential
has sprung a leak. This is the second time it's
> happened in five
years. I'd like to find out if there are any recalls
> w.r.t
>
the differential (seals, parts, etc.) Is there a recall/TSB database
that
> I
> can query to get this information? I'm also going
to call the local
> dealer,
> but I'm not sure if they would report
TSBs...
>
> Thanks!
> -sankar
> '97
VR4
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------------------------------
Date: Wed, 27 Feb 2002 09:39:41
-0600
From: "cody" <
overclck@satx.rr.com>
Subject: RE:
Team3S: Knock (or something like that)
Granted, that may be lugging the
engine, but I have never had any signs
of knock...
I was
thinking more along the lines of a stuttering possibly??? If it
is
stuttering, there is a possibility it is spark plugs and wires.
Why don't you pull your plugs and look for signs of detonation, or
their
overall condition. This can tell a lot about how the engine
is
running...
- -Cody
- -----Original Message-----
From:
owner-team3s@team3s.com
[mailto:owner-team3s@team3s.com] On Behalf
Of Furman, Russell
Sent:
Tuesday, February 26, 2002 2:42 PM
To:
'daedel@mac.com'Cc: 'Team 3S'
Subject:
RE: Team3S: Knock (or something like that)
What are you doing in fifth at
only 30? Sounds like you are lugging the
motor which is causing the
knock...... Try doing the same thing in
third
and report
back
> -----Original Message-----
> From:
daedel@mac.com [SMTP:daedel@mac.com]
>
Sent: Tuesday, February 26, 2002 3:40 PM
> To:
team3s@team3s.com> Subject: Team3S:
Knock (or something like that)
>
> I've got a 94 3000gt NA with
89,000 miles on it and occasionally I've
> gotten what seems like knock
when accelerating. I've never experienced
> knock (what I know to be
knock for sure) so I don't know what it feels
> like exactly and at
this point I'm guessing. Its like a slight jerk
when
> the pedal is
down. This only seems to happen below 3000 rpm and it
> happens a lot
when for instance I'm going 30ish through a neighborhood
> with the
car in fifth and push the pedal to the floor. I've heard that
> knock
is the inability of the fuel system to get enough fuel into the
>
cylinder so might this be faulty fuel injectors? If it's not knock
what
> else might it be? If this is common I guess I just can't drive in
high
> gears, any input would be great.
>
>
-David
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------------------------------
Date: Wed, 27 Feb 2002 09:41:34
-0600
From: "cody" <
overclck@satx.rr.com>
Subject: RE:
Team3S: The $50 Iowa mod
MPH is optimistic because it(g-tech) takes
instantaneous MPH at the end
of the 1/4. A normal drag strip times you
from 60' (I think its 60')
before the end of the 1/4 and again at the 1/4
mile. It then calculates
your average speed over that distance.
This is the time you get on your
time slip.
- -Cody
-
-----Original Message-----
From:
owner-team3s@team3s.com
[mailto:owner-team3s@team3s.com] On Behalf
Of Mihai Raicu
Sent: Wednesday,
February 27, 2002 9:37 AM
To:
merritt@cedar-rapids.net; 'Jannusch,
Matt'
Cc:
Team3S@stealth-3000gt.stSubject:
RE: Team3S: The $50 Iowa mod
Rich,
My brother and I also have a
Gteck Pro, and Matt is right: " I'd take
those times with a grain of
salt." You can only compare Gteck numbers
to Gteck numbers. You
cannot compare them to 1/4 mile drag strip
numbers. From my
calculations, the time is accurate; however, on TT/VR4
the MPH is
optimistic.
- -MIHAI-
95 Red VR4
PS. Don't ever let
anyone drive your car like that. So far no one has
driven my VR4 aside
from my brother (owns a TT) and my dad twice. Maybe
I would let a
VR4/TT owner drive my car around the block after I see how
they drive their
car and shift gears, but not launch it. There would
have to be a
purpose for me to let them drive it such as handling
issues, noises,
etc... What is the point of having someone else obtain
a higher 1/4
mile? When the driver is the limiting factor, might as
well test it
that way, because that's what's really going to happen in
real life. To
put it in other words, "I DON'T TRUST ANYONE MORE THAN
MYSELF WHEN IT COMES
TO DRIVING MY CAR." Maybe it sounds a bit
arrogant, but it
works.
>Date: Mon, 25 Feb 2002 23:25:22 -0600
>From: "Jannusch,
Matt" <
mjannusch@marketwatch.com>
>Subject:
RE: Team3S: The $50 Iowa mod.
>> Today, we had a chance to do a
baseline check to
>> see how we're doing. Here are the results
of
>> four consecutive passes on a G-Tech:
>
>> 1.
13.93 @ 101.8
>> 2. 14.39 @ 96.1
>> 3. 14.05 @
99.1
>> 4. 13.78 @ 104.2
>
>I'd take those times with
a grain of salt. The ET's don't match the
MPH -
***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 27 Feb 2002 09:53:22
-0600
From: "Christopher Deutsch" <
crdeutsch@mn.mediaone.net>
Subject:
Team3S: Race Technology AP-22 WAS: Gtech Pro
GTech is not the only game
in town either. The AP-22 offers data logging
and is dual axis:
http://web2.iadfw.net/nunnally/sts/ap22review.htmChristopher
>
> There are two versions ! US does 1/4 mile and 0-60
> International
does 400m
> > and 0-100km/h
> >
> > Roger
>
> 93'3000GT TT
> >
www.rtec.ch>
>
-----------------------------------------------
> There is also now a
new/2nd version of the Gtech Pro.
> It's the race version and it uses 4
accelerometers and
> provides additional data versus the original
version.
>
> Summitt Racing now has them listed in their
catalog.
>
> But it's also larger and wouldn't fit in my AC
vent
> the way the original does. :) It also appears to be
>
LCD versus the original's LED output ....
>
> - dts
***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 27 Feb 2002 13:29:43
-0500
From: "Zobel, Kurt" <
KURT.ZOBEL@ca.com>
Subject: RE:
Team3S: turbo spooling, too slow?
I'd have to say it may be Jeff's
exhaust mods that allow quicker spool up.
Exhaust
Improved pre-cats
ATR stainless-steel downpipe
ATR aluminized-steel
high-flow catalytic converter
ATR 3", stainless-steel, cat-back exhaust with
Pit Bull muffler [99.99% equivalent of a straight pipe]
Anyone else
tested or noticed improved spoolup with exhaust mods?
I would guess most
people already have modified exhaust before turbo upgrades,
so maybe not much
experience.
Kurt
- -----Original Message-----
From: Jeff Lucius
[mailto:stealthman92@yahoo.com]
Sent: Wednesday, February 27, 2002 7:14
AM
To: Ken Middaugh;
Team3S@stealth-3000gt.stSubject:
Re: Team3S: turbo spooling, too slow?
Ken,
I recently performed
two roll-on acceleration tests here in Colorado
(12 psi atm, cool day) with
my TEC 15G turbos (engine mods listed at
my web site). Starting at a 2000 RPM
cruising speed I floored it in
2nd gear and then in 3rd gear. In both gears,
by 3000 RPM boost was
limited by the BC to about 16 psi. I am not sure at
what RPM "max
boost" could be achieved with my setup under these test
conditions,
but 15 psi was easily achieved by 3000 RPM.
There is no
"break-in" period for turbos that I am aware of that will
affect "spool
up".
http://www.geocities.com/lutransys/jlucius5/j5-2-3s-compflowmaps.htmhttp://www.geocities.com/lutransys/jlucius2/j2-2-turboguide.htmJeff
Lucius,
http://www.stealth316.com/- -----
Original Message -----
From: "Ken Middaugh" <
kmiddaugh@ixpres.com>
To: "Team3S
(E-mail)" <
Team3S@stealth-3000gt.st>
Sent:
Monday, February 25, 2002 9:23 PM
Subject: Team3S: turbo spooling, too
slow?
Hi folks,
I have 1500 miles or so on my new 13G turbos and
new engine. I also
have gutted precats, but the stock downpipe, main
cat, and exhaust.
I was expecting the new 13G's with gutted precats to spool
up to 15
psi almost as fast as the 9B's with intact precats, i.e. 15
psi
around 3100 RPM. However, my 13G's don't see 15 psi until about
4000
RPM. In numerous posts in the past, folks have mentioned that
the
13G & 15G "spool almost as quickly" as the 9B. This is not what
I'm
currently experiencing! Does this spooling seem correct? Will
the
spoolup time get quicker as the turbos "break-in" some
more?
Thanks,
Ken
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 27 Feb 2002 12:36:23
-0600
From: "Todd D.Shelton" <
tds@brightok.net>
Subject: Re: Team3S:
Fog Light bulb replacement
- -----Original Message-----
From: Yoss
<
yoss@aracnet.com>
To: Todd
D.Shelton <
tds@brightok.net>
Cc:
3kgt <
Team3S@stealth-3000gt.st>
Date:
Wednesday, February 27, 2002 1:18 AM
Subject: Re: Team3S: Fog Light bulb
replacement
>The stock bulbs are rated at 55 watts. The NAPA
bulbs are the old-style
>"yellow." You may want to check other places such
as
http://www.nopionline.com>for
bright-whites. They have a few bulbs that are rated "H-3 55W=120W."
I
>have no idea what that means. My guess is that these are rated at
55W, but
>are bright enough to an equivalent 120W
blub?
>
>-sankar
Can anyone (Jeff L! :)) please verify
the stock wattage on
fogs for a StealthTT?
The reason I ask is because
on page 139 of the Dodge Stealth
owner's manual it lists the wattage as being
35W for the fog lights.
Where are you getting your info sankar?
If
the official Dodge Stealth owner's manual is
in fact correct about the
wattage being 35 then
I don't think it would be a good idea to exceed
that
by much at all ....
Thanks,
tds
***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 27 Feb 2002 12:47:11
-0600
From: "Todd D.Shelton" <
tds@brightok.net>
Subject: Re: Team3S:
Fog Light bulb replacement
- -----Original Message-----
From: Furman,
Russell <
RFurman2@MassMutual.com>
To:
'tds@brightok.net' <
tds@brightok.net>
Cc:
'Team3S@stealth-3000gt.st' <
Team3S@stealth-3000gt.st>
Date:
Wednesday, February 27, 2002 8:53 AM
Subject: RE: Team3S: Fog Light bulb
replacement
>
>Also why not get some hid driving lights with a
properly adjusted beam now
>that would be something. Try this link
below and clink on the Raybrig link
>on the side bar
>
-
-------------------------------------------------------------------------
If
money were no object then those would surely match.
But after just
dropping hundereds on the headlight HID conversion,
another $1435 on the
Teins, $1K on racing seats and harness,
Momo steering wheel and new stereo
head unit and
steering wheel remote control unit I'm a little tapped
out
at the moment.
Even if I had the money, I think it's a bit
ridiculous to spend $500-
$1000 for HID *foglights* ..... seems very
frivilous and that's saying
something considering some of the things I've
bought for this money
pit of a car .... :)
A whiter $20 bulb that
would more closely match the HID headlights
would be sufficient.
- -
tds
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 27 Feb 2002 13:37:20
US/Central
From:
tds@brightok.netSubject: Team3S: Gtech
Competition
Here's the info on the new
Gtech Competition
model:
Has features for
horsepower, torque, Gs graphs,
a traction
and cornering light that
tells you when to shift for
maximum
performance. Plus it measures all the
same performance
characteristics the
original GTECH Pro does. Uses
four
accelerometers - accuracy to 1/100 sec
and features a graphic display
for
easier analysis. It even allows you
to store over one hour of
data
and play it back.
[Looks like an LCD display in the pic
and it
appears bigger than the Gtech Pro -
has more buttons and a big 4 way
dial]
Lists for $250 at Summit. Based on the Gtech Pro
pricing
practices, there will most likey
be very little difference in prices
from
vendor to vendor IMO.
- - tds
http://www.brightok.net/~tds-
---------------------------------------------
This message was sent using
BrightNet MailMan.
http://www.Brightok.net/mailman/***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 27 Feb 2002 20:13:18
+0000
From:
apedenko@attbi.comSubject: Team3S:
Exhaust options
Two questions, really:
1. Can someone please
explain to the me the difference
between test pipes that sell on e-bay for
~$30 and
the "PreCat eliminator kit" from DR that sells for
$500? Aren't
they the same thing?
2. For of you that have shopped around, how much
(and
where) is a good price for a stillen dp and a borla
catback (vr4).
The prices I've seen are around 300 for
the DP and around 700 for the
catback. Is that any good?
Also, is it possible to pass illinois smoging
w/o
precats/main cat?
Alex.
'95 VR4
***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 27 Feb 2002 14:16:01
-0600
From: "Morice, Francis" <
francis.morice@retek.com>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: Exhaust options
I got my Borla from Summit Racing for about
$669 shipped. You should check
them out, they had the lowest price plus it
was in stock.
Francis
'96 RT/TT
-----Original
Message-----
From:
apedenko@attbi.com
[mailto:apedenko@attbi.com]
Sent: Wednesday, February 27, 2002 2:13
PM
To:
team3s@team3s.comSubject:
Team3S: Exhaust options
Two questions, really:
1. Can someone
please explain to the me the difference
between test pipes that sell on
e-bay for ~$30 and
the "PreCat eliminator kit" from DR that sells for
$500? Aren't they the same thing?
2. For of you that have shopped
around, how much (and
where) is a good price for a stillen dp and a borla
catback (vr4). The prices I've seen are around 300 for
the DP and around
700 for the catback. Is that any good?
Also, is it possible to pass
illinois smoging w/o
precats/main cat?
Alex.
'95
VR4
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 27 Feb 2002 12:31:21
-0800
From: Damon Rachell <
damonr@mefas.com>
Subject: Re: Team3S:
Exhaust options
The stillen DP for $300 is an amazing price. I've
seen $370 at places
like MVPmotorsports and dynamic racing. As far as
the borla, when the
discounts were good at carparts.com, they were like $550
shipped or
something rediculous like that.
apedenko@attbi.com wrote:
> Two
questions, really:
>
> 1. Can someone please explain to the me the
difference
> between test pipes that sell on e-bay for ~$30 and
>
the "PreCat eliminator kit" from DR that sells for
> $500? Aren't they
the same thing?
>
> 2. For of you that have shopped around, how
much (and
> where) is a good price for a stillen dp and a borla
>
catback (vr4). The prices I've seen are around 300 for
> the DP and
around 700 for the catback. Is that any good?
>
> Also, is it
possible to pass illinois smoging w/o
> precats/main cat?
>
> Alex.
>
> '95 VR4
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 27 Feb 2002 14:26:48
-0600
From: "Jannusch, Matt" <
mjannusch@marketwatch.com>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: Exhaust options
> 1. Can someone please explain to the me
the difference
> between test pipes that sell on e-bay for ~$30 and
> the "PreCat eliminator kit" from DR that sells for
> $500?
Aren't they the same thing?
No, they are different. The precat
eliminator kit replaces the pre-cats. A
test pipe replaces the main
cat. The eliminators are a lot more than a
straight piece of pipe with
flanges on the end like a test pipe.
> Also, is it possible to pass
illinois smoging w/o
> precats/main cat?
Without precats
probably. Without a main cat probably not, but it depends
on how tough
the standards are in IL. It is possible to barely pass
Minnesota's old
standards (before they stopped smogging here), but not by
much. There's
no possible way you'd pass the visual inspection with a
Stillen pipe or a
test pipe though unless the inspector is asleep.
- -Matt
'95 3000GT
Spyder VR4
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 27 Feb 2002 14:25:27
-0600
From: "
merritt@cedar-rapids.net" <
merritt@cedar-rapids.net>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Exhaust options
If you get a Stillen, you don't need the test
pipe because it eliminates the front and main cats. As for the Borla, I had a
single-exhaust catback made up for $200 at Denny's. Before the Stillen, it was
whisper-quiet -- after the Stillen it's very very loud. As for passing
emissions, just retain the stock downpipe. Prior to inspection, replace the
Stillen with the old downpipe and cats, then after inspection put it back on. I
have my old exhaust standing in the garage, awaiting the day that Iowa invokes
emission checks.
Rich/slow old poop
>1. Can someone please
explain to the me the difference
>between test pipes that sell on e-bay
for ~$30 and
>the "PreCat eliminator kit" from DR
>
>2. For
of you that have shopped around, how much (and
>where) is a good price
for a stillen dp and a borla
>catback (vr4). T
***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 27 Feb 2002 16:07:02
-0500
From: "Jeff VanOrsdal" <
jeffv@1nce.com>
Subject: RE: Team3S:
Exhaust options
> 1. Can someone please explain to the me the
difference
> between test pipes that sell on e-bay for ~$30 and
>
the "PreCat eliminator kit" from DR that sells for
> $500? Aren't they the
same thing?
>No, they are different. The precat eliminator kit
replaces the pre-cats.
A
>test pipe replaces the main cat. The
eliminators are a lot more than a
>straight piece of pipe with flanges on
the end like a test pipe.
Yea. Instead of a straight length of pipe
with a flange on each end, it's a
pair of bent pipes with flanges on each
end. I really need to learn how to
weld. I want to charge $500
for $30 worth of pipe too.
Jeff VanOrsdal
1991 Stealth ESX Twin Turbo
(bad transmission and no 300% markup pipes)
jeffv@1nce.com- -----Original
Message-----
From:
owner-team3s@team3s.com
[mailto:owner-team3s@team3s.com]On Behalf
Of Jannusch, Matt
Sent:
Wednesday, February 27, 2002 3:27 PM
To:
'apedenko@attbi.com';
team3s@team3s.comSubject: RE: Team3S:
Exhaust options
> 1. Can someone please explain to the me the
difference
> between test pipes that sell on e-bay for ~$30 and
>
the "PreCat eliminator kit" from DR that sells for
> $500? Aren't they the
same thing?
No, they are different. The precat eliminator kit
replaces the pre-cats. A
test pipe replaces the main cat. The
eliminators are a lot more than a
straight piece of pipe with flanges on the
end like a test pipe.
> Also, is it possible to pass illinois smoging
w/o
> precats/main cat?
Without precats probably. Without a
main cat probably not, but it depends
on how tough the standards are in
IL. It is possible to barely pass
Minnesota's old standards (before
they stopped smogging here), but not by
much. There's no possible way
you'd pass the visual inspection with a
Stillen pipe or a test pipe though
unless the inspector is asleep.
- -Matt
'95 3000GT Spyder
VR4
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 27 Feb 2002 13:10:30
-0800 (PST)
From: David Margrave <
davidma@eskimo.com>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: Gtech Competition
how about the pc-dyno? I haven't heard it
mentioned for a while.
On Wed, 27 Feb 2002
tds@brightok.net wrote:
> Here's
the info on the new
> Gtech Competition model:
>
> Has
features for
> horsepower, torque, Gs graphs,
> a traction and
cornering light that
> tells you when to shift for maximum
>
performance. Plus it measures all the
> same performance
characteristics the
> original GTECH Pro does. Uses four
>
accelerometers - accuracy to 1/100 sec
> and features a graphic display
for
> easier analysis. It even allows you
> to store over one
hour of data
> and play it back.
>
> [Looks like an LCD
display in the pic
> and it appears bigger than the Gtech Pro -
>
has more buttons and a big 4 way dial]
>
> Lists for $250 at
Summit. Based on the Gtech Pro
> pricing practices, there will most
likey
> be very little difference in prices from
> vendor to vendor
IMO.
>
> - tds
>
http://www.brightok.net/~tds>
This message was sent using BrightNet MailMan.
>
http://www.Brightok.net/mailman/***
Info:
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***
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 27 Feb 2002 17:15:10
-0500
From: "anscray" <
anscray@mediaone.net>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: Exhaust options
I purchased 2 Borla exhaust sytems, N/A and Turbo
from Pep Boys.. B4 you go
ordering a system check with your local auto
parts suppliers.. Most will
match prices or beat them...
Scott
94
VR4
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 27 Feb 2002 17:24:03
-0600
From: "Black, Dave (ICT)" <
dblai@allstate.com>
Subject: RE:
Team3S: Gtech Competition
How accurate are the GTech's HP
measurements? Also I'm assuming it measures
hp at the fly,
right?
Dave 95VR4
http://www.daveblack.net>
-----Original Message-----
> From:
tds@brightok.net
[SMTP:tds@brightok.net]
> Sent: Wednesday, February 27, 2002 7:37
AM
> To:
Team3S@stealth-3000gt.st>
Subject: Team3S: Gtech Competition
>
> Here's the info on the
new
> Gtech Competition model:
>
> Has features for
>
horsepower, torque, Gs graphs,
> a traction and cornering light
that
> tells you when to shift for maximum
> performance. Plus
it measures all the
> same performance characteristics the
>
original GTECH Pro does. Uses four
> accelerometers - accuracy to
1/100 sec
> and features a graphic display for
> easier
analysis. It even allows you
> to store over one hour of
data
> and play it back.
>
> [Looks like an LCD display in
the pic
> and it appears bigger than the Gtech Pro -
> has more
buttons and a big 4 way dial]
>
> Lists for $250 at Summit.
Based on the Gtech Pro
> pricing practices, there will most likey
>
be very little difference in prices from
> vendor to vendor IMO.
>
> - tds
>
http://www.brightok.net/~tds>
This message was sent using BrightNet MailMan.
>
http://www.Brightok.net/mailman/***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 27 Feb 2002 17:28:59
-0600
From: "Black, Dave (ICT)" <
dblai@allstate.com>
Subject: RE:
Team3S: Exhaust options
As far as the best price on the Borla, I know
that Carparts had them for a
while for $550 or so. When JC Whitney took
them over they had stopped
selling the Borla. I'm not sure if they are
selling them anymore.
The cheapest price I have seen on the Borla is $540
shipped from Nopi Online
- -
http://www.nopionline.com. They had
them all in stock too. I have done a
lot of shopping around for that
price. I think that is their everday price.
Dave 95VR4
http://www.daveblack.net>
-----Original Message-----
> From:
apedenko@attbi.com
[SMTP:apedenko@attbi.com]
> Sent: Wednesday, February 27, 2002 2:13
PM
> To:
team3s@team3s.com>
Subject: Team3S: Exhaust options
>
> Two questions, really:
>
> 1. Can someone please explain to the me the difference
> between
test pipes that sell on e-bay for ~$30 and
> the "PreCat eliminator kit"
from DR that sells for
> $500? Aren't they the same thing?
>
> 2. For of you that have shopped around, how much (and
> where)
is a good price for a stillen dp and a borla
> catback (vr4). The prices
I've seen are around 300 for
> the DP and around 700 for the catback. Is
that any good?
>
> Also, is it possible to pass illinois smoging
w/o
> precats/main cat?
>
> Alex.
>
> '95 VR4
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 27 Feb 2002 18:42:27
-500
From:
ukyo@speedfactory.netSubject:
Re: RE: Team3S: Triangle Window Flaking & Headlight Covers
You
can do this, or you can take a hair dryer / heat gun and use it to heat the
seal. That is what I did with the headlights on my '94 VR-4. The
whole ordeal is time comsuming, but not overly hard. After you do the
first one the second one will probably take half the time (like most
things).
If you have any questions just email me off list and I'll be
glad to help.
ukyo@speedfactory.net :)
-
-- Travis
'94 3000GT VR-4
'97 Eclipse GSX
> If they are anything
like the MKIV supra lights, you can heat them up (on
> lowest setting) in
the oven to soften the adhesive and remove the glass
> polish it, then
reattach using some black RTV sealant. MKIV.com is down now
> or I
would include the link.
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 27 Feb 2002 15:42:44
-0800
From: "fastmax" <
fastmax@cox.net>
Subject: Re: Team3S:
Gtech Competition
No dynamometer has the ability to measure HP at the
flywheel to say nothing of
an accelerometer sitting on the dash. All of the
onboard performance measuring
devices contain an accelerometer(s) and timer
---- they all use the same math
equations to convert acceleration and time
into speed and distance. If they can
find speed and time and you give them
weight they can calculate HP --- no magic
just math.
One of the
issues with the single axis accelerometer is the affect of dive and squat
on
the measurements --- the accelerometer is zeroed with the car level and any
change in attitude screws up the calculations. The three axis accelerometers
have
the ability to compensate for those errors ---- I don't know that they
do but the
information is available for them to do the
calculations.
Jim
Berry
=========================================================
- -----
Original Message -----
From: "Black, Dave (ICT)" <
dblai@allstate.com>
> How
accurate are the GTech's HP measurements? Also I'm assuming it
measures
> hp at the fly, right?
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 27 Feb 2002 15:45:58
-0800
From: Michael Gerhard <
gerhard1@llnl.gov>
Subject: Team3S:
Mitsubishi Emblem Replacement
I have a new emblem for the nose of my '91
VR4. The old one is faded and
one corner is chipped off. I'm wondering if
anyone has replaced their
emblem and how they got the old one off. I have
been thinking of heating it
with a blow dryer and then using a plastic putty
knife to pop it off.
I'm open to any hints or
suggestions.
Thanks.
-
--------------------------------------------------------------
Michael A.
Gerhard 1991 Mitsubishi 3000GT VR4 Pearl
White
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 27 Feb 2002 18:49:14
-0500
From: "Gil Gomes" <
gil@3kgt.com>
Subject: Re: Team3S: Exhaust
options
Interesting... I'm on
http://www.nopionline.com right now and I'm
seeing the
Twin Turbo Borla CatBack system for sale at $749.43. What am I
missing?
- -Gil
> As far as the best price on the Borla, I know
that Carparts had them for a
> while for $550 or so. When JC Whitney
took them over they had stopped
> selling the Borla. I'm not sure if
they are selling them anymore.
>
> The cheapest price I have seen on
the Borla is $540 shipped from Nopi
Online
> -
http://www.nopionline.com. They had
them all in stock too. I have done
a
> lot of shopping around for
that price. I think that is their everday
price.
>
> Dave
95VR4
>
http://www.daveblack.net>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> > From:
apedenko@attbi.com
[SMTP:apedenko@attbi.com]
> > Sent: Wednesday, February 27, 2002 2:13
PM
> > To:
team3s@team3s.com> > Subject:
Team3S: Exhaust options
> >
> > Two questions, really:
>
>
> > 1. Can someone please explain to the me the difference
>
> between test pipes that sell on e-bay for ~$30 and
> > the "PreCat
eliminator kit" from DR that sells for
> > $500? Aren't they the same
thing?
> >
> > 2. For of you that have shopped around, how
much (and
> > where) is a good price for a stillen dp and a
borla
> > catback (vr4). The prices I've seen are around 300
for
> > the DP and around 700 for the catback. Is that any
good?
> >
> > Also, is it possible to pass illinois smoging
w/o
> > precats/main cat?
> >
> >
Alex.
> >
> > '95 VR4
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 27 Feb 2002 17:02:41
-0700
From: "Moe Prasad" <
mprasad01@earthlink.net>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Mitsubishi Emblem Replacement
It just peals off. Then
use a little bit of vegetable oil and then will get
the glue off. I
would not use nail polish remover to take the glue off
because it might take
off the clear coat.
Rgds
Moe
- ----- Original Message
-----
From: "Michael Gerhard" <
gerhard1@llnl.gov>
To: <
Team3S@stealth-3000gt.st>
Sent:
Wednesday, February 27, 2002 4:45 PM
Subject: Team3S: Mitsubishi Emblem
Replacement
> I have a new emblem for the nose of my '91 VR4. The
old one is faded and
> one corner is chipped off. I'm wondering if anyone
has replaced their
> emblem and how they got the old one off. I have been
thinking of heating
it
> with a blow dryer and then using a plastic
putty knife to pop it off.
>
> I'm open to any hints or
suggestions.
>
> Thanks.
>
>
--------------------------------------------------------------
> Michael
A. Gerhard 1991 Mitsubishi 3000GT VR4 Pearl
White
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 27 Feb 2002 16:48:04
-0800 (PST)
From: menalteed <
menalteed@yahoo.com>
Subject:
Team3S: Turbo swap
I wa looking at some of the old e-mails on the
turbo
swap. I have posted in the past several days on my
progress on the
swap but failed to mention that the
studs on the tubos are very important to
keep, my
dealer here wants eights bucks for each stud and each
bolt so
don't lose those parts, as always dealers rip
you off. Now going through past
posts I have found
that
a lot of times I see things like you have to
remove
the rear turbo from the bottom, you have to remove the
hood or the
L bracket for the engine, and a lot of
other stuff that just isn't required.
Even the turbo
swap page on the 3s site have about 50% more steps
then are
required. Take your time and remember I was
able to remove both turbos with
oil return lines
conected from the top. The main problem I have had
is
just geing the frozen nuts lose but with wrench ease
and not being in a
hurry it all worked out fine, it
realy isn't a big deal, and I didn't have
special
tools although my swivel head 3/8 rachet was a god
send. I also
used a
metal pipe for a cheater on it to break lose the nuts
on the
flanges and exhust system. Again forget
removing the O2 sensers, not needed
nor removing the
battery or plentum or a bunch of other stuff it
dosen't
do a thing
for removing the turbos, the best tool is using your
head then
it is quite simple.
Peter
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: 27 Feb 2002 17:09:58
PST
From: Dean Benz <
dbenz@usa.net>
Subject: Team3S: Upgraded
Front Sway bar Inst. ?
I haven't gotten an answer back from Steve yet,
and my mechanic is putting
them in tomorrow.
Hopefully somebody else
has stuck their head under there.
What are the heavy black peices of bent
steel(about 1"x2") and four bolts in
the kit for? To relocate the chasis
brackets?
Did anybody get pictures of the upgraded front and rears
installed and/or
during the process?
Thanks in advance
Dean
Benz
dbenz@usa.net***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 27 Feb 2002 18:53:00
-0700
From: Wayne <
whietala@prodigy.net>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: Upgraded Front Sway bar Inst. ?
At 05:09 PM 2/27/02 -0800, Dean
Benz wrote:
>What are the heavy black peices of bent steel(about
1"x2") and four bolts in
>the kit for? To relocate the chasis
brackets?
>
They go between the U-bracket and the subframe the
U-bracket bolts to.
The bolts and U-brackets replace the stock
parts.
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 27 Feb 2002 19:57:33
-0600
From: "
merritt@cedar-rapids.net" <
merritt@cedar-rapids.net>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Upgraded Front Sway bar Inst. ?
>What are the heavy black
peices of bent steel(about 1"x2") and four bolts in
>the kit for? To
relocate the chasis brackets?
>
Those are the adjusters for the front
bar.
With those, you can make the bar stiffer or
looser.
Rich>
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 27 Feb 2002 18:11:44
-0800
From: Damon Rachell <
damonr@mefas.com>
Subject: Re: Team3S:
Upgraded Front Sway bar Inst. ?
How are they used to increase or decrease
stiffness?
merritt@cedar-rapids.net
wrote:
>>What are the heavy black peices of bent steel(about 1"x2")
and four bolts in
>>the kit for? To relocate the chasis
brackets?
>>
>>
> Those are the adjusters for the front
bar.
> With those, you can make the bar stiffer or looser.
>
> Rich>
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 27 Feb 2002 20:15:55
-0600
From: "
merritt@cedar-rapids.net" <
merritt@cedar-rapids.net>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Upgraded Front Sway bar Inst. ?
Damifino. We set our
adjusters to maximum, to get maximum clearance with the other suspension pieces.
I don't know what to do with it now.
By the bye, Wayne was right -- what
you described are just the mounting brackets, not the adjusters. I read it over
too fast and responded with a quick draw hip shot without thinking.
(damn...gettting like Flash, ain't I?)
Rich/slow old poop
At 06:11
PM 2/27/02 -0800, you wrote:
>How are they used to increase or decrease
stiffness?
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 27 Feb 2002 18:44:35
-0800
From: "P N Sankarshanan" <
yoss@aracnet.com>
Subject: Re: Team3S:
Fog Light bulb replacement
Todd:
When I removed
the fog light bulbs, I noticed the wattage rating to be 55W.
After your
message about it being 35W for the Stealth TT, I looked up the
owner's manual
for my '97 VR4, and on pg. 182, it lists the fog lights rating
to be
55W.
Maybe the wattage was bumped from 1st gen to 2nd
gen cars?
> Can anyone (Jeff L! :)) please verify the stock wattage
on
> fogs for a StealthTT?
[snip]
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
End of Team3S: 3000GT &
Stealth V1
#767
***************************************