Team3S: 3000GT & Stealth Tuesday, February 26 2002
Volume 01 : Number
766
----------------------------------------------------------------------
Date:
Tue, 26 Feb 2002 10:38:27 -0800
From: "Bradford J. Gay" <
bradfordjgay@charter.net>
Subject:
Team3S: Fixing Wheels and Gauges
Ok, I know this is going to sound like
I'm an idiot, but someway,
somehow I did it. While I was parking next
to a curb, part of the curb
was jutting out and I failed to see it and
scraped up my Axis wheel
pretty good. Any ideas on how to fix it w/o
ordering a new wheel?
Also, what size are the stock gauges in the center
console and is it
possible to mount aftermarket gauges in the same
spot?
- -Brad G.
1997 VR-4 w/1999 body
***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 26 Feb 2002 10:56:28
-0800
From: "ek2mfg" <
ek2mfg@foxinternet.com>
Subject:
Team3S: SS brake lines for the NA
Does any one where you can SS brake
lines for an NA....that has them
in stock right NOW? It would appear that
everyone is on somekind of 3
week period for getting them that has lasted
about 6 weeks now.
I really want to finish this conversion only want to
open my brake
system once.
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 26 Feb 2002 13:58:29
-0500
From:
pvg1@daimlerchrysler.comSubject:
RE: Team3S: The $50 Iowa mod.
>> --Flash!
>> 1995 VR-4 and
easily fooled a G-Tech with a smooth
>> rolling start of 20 mph but it
thought I was
>> standing still so a 1/4 mile time of 9.00
seconds
>> was attained
>Actually a rolling start should
result in worse times since the Gtech will
>see less acceleration.
Not that it matters... The only real indicators
of
>acceleration
performance are a dragstrip or a dyno.
Hehehe! Flash, this was your 60
mph (20 - 80) mph time. What a slow car you
have - 0-60 in 9.00
seconds!
Philip
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 26 Feb 2002 11:13:03
-0800
From: "Gross, Erik" <
erik.gross@intel.com>
Subject:
Team3S: RE: Team3s: Pressure in the BOV line
> > I've got 4
aftermarket things tapped into the
> > stock vacuum lines - 2
into FPR(blue) and 2 into
> > evap. purge(red).
> Wow, what
all do you have hooked up on those? :-)
Yeah, I know - it'll be
down to 3 shortly. Currently, it's
- - GReddy PRofec stepper
motor
- - GReddy electronic boost gauge sending unit
- - GM 3-bar MAP
sensor (DOA, AFAIK - @#%$!)
- - ERL Hobbs switch (for WI)
The Hobbs
switch is only there until I figure out what's up with my MAP
sensor.
MAP sensor: 3-wires (+5V, +0V, signal) and I verified that the +5V
and +0V
are correct at the harness. The signal line sits at almost +0V
and doesn't
move when I use a hand pump to raise the pressure in the
line. It's brand
spankin' new, too... When it's powered up, the
+5V line drops to 1.8V,
though - don't know why - must be a big current drain
somewhere.
- --Erik
'95 VR-4 with busted MAP sensor and forced to run
WI in 2D-map mode
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 26 Feb 2002 13:14:41
-0600
From: "Christopher Deutsch" <
crdeutsch@mn.mediaone.net>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: Fixing Wheels and Gauges
Don't know the exact sizes, but yes
you can change them (assuming you mean
the faces, not the gauge
itself). There are a couple of places that sell
them for 3S
cars.
Here's a few:
http://www.nrauto.com/gauge_body.asp?id=158http://www.importintelligence.com/FMPro?-DB=cart.fp3&-Format=3000gt.html&-Token=35776&-RecID=35776&CustID=USA&-Edit
Here's
how to remove the gauges complements of Jeff Lucius:
http://www.3si.org/member-home/jlucius7/j7-2-dashpanel.htmChristopher
>
-----Original Message-----
> From:
owner-team3s@team3s.com
[mailto:owner-team3s@team3s.com]On Behalf
> Of Bradford J. Gay
>
Sent: Tuesday, February 26, 2002 12:38 PM
> To:
team3S@stealth-3000gt.st>
Subject: Team3S: Fixing Wheels and Gauges
>
>
> Ok, I know
this is going to sound like I'm an idiot, but someway,
> somehow I did
it. While I was parking next to a curb, part of the curb
> was
jutting out and I failed to see it and scraped up my Axis wheel
> pretty
good. Any ideas on how to fix it w/o ordering a new wheel?
> Also,
what size are the stock gauges in the center console and is it
> possible
to mount aftermarket gauges in the same spot?
>
> -Brad
G.
> 1997 VR-4 w/1999 body
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 26 Feb 2002 11:28:34
-0800
From: Damon Rachell <
damonr@mefas.com>
Subject: Team3S: Re:
Difference in boost gauge readings...
Darren, you obviously don't read
because I specified first and foremost
that I tapped into the VACUUM LINES,
the ones that correspond to the FPR
and the clutch vacuum assist (i
believe). The reason to do that is
because tapping into the same line
can increase the total volume of the
system decreasing the accuracy of the
boost measurement.
Erik, you're exactly right. I've got the DSBC
tucked away in the center
console along with my turbo timer. The DEFI
boost gauge is sold by a
couple of complanies. It's also a turbo timer
but since I've already
got one of those hooked up, no need for two.
Bigger pain to hook up the
DEFI (need blitz adapter- $30)
anyways.
The problem with me tapping into the BOV vacuum hose is that
I've got a
turboXS type-H BOV. Although it isn't an open system, it
does not have
a diaphram like the stock valve. So, does that mean that
this line is
out of the question?
I still want to resort back to the
original question: Why the change in
boost between the two gauges on
different lines when originally, on the
same line, I was getting the same
readings.
Damon
PS- Flash, don't answer unless you're spitting out
facts, not factoids.
Gross, Erik wrote:
>>If I had to guess
why Damon is running two boost
>>gauges<...>
>>I'd move
both of them to read pressure off the
>>blowoff valve line. Those
should both read what
>>the pressure is in the manifold without
anything
>>else trying to change the reading, assuming
>>there
aren't any leaks in the lines.
>
> Matt (and others),
> I've
contemplated tapping into the BPV/BOV vacuum line from the
> manifold to
get boost readings, but I've wondered if it's completely sealed
> and/or
doesn't change pressure when the valve activates (other than the
> actual
manifold pressure change, of course). I've never taken a BPV
apart,
> so I don't know exactly what's at the BPV end of the vacuum line
and whether
> that would give inaccurate boost/vacuum readings.
>
I've got 4 aftermarket things tapped into the stock vacuum lines -
>
2 into FPR(blue) and 2 into evap. purge(red). I realize that the evap
purge
> line is actually *before* the throttle plate and thus won't read
manifold
> vacuum, but those 2 devices don't need to read vacuum.
It'd be nice to run
> everything off the big fat BPV line rather than the
tiny FPR line (that
> needs to be accurate), but I've been nervous about
the accuracy of the BPV
> vacuum line.
>
> --Erik
> '95
VR-4 with way too many vacuum lines
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 26 Feb 2002 14:23:43
-0500
From: "Darren Schilberg" <
dschilberg@pobox.com>
Subject: RE:
Team3S: The $50 Iowa mod.
Philip -- I don't follow. The G-Tech is
not told to compute a 0-60 time
if you have it set for the 1/4 mile
time. You can EITHER do a 0-60 and
60-0 test or a 1/4 mile test.
The two can not be run at the same time.
The 1/4 mile run tells time and
speed and the 0-60/60-0 tells time to 60
mph and time from 60 mph to 0.
By the way, the 9-second time was a
guess.
Honestly ... does someone,
anyone on the list have one to try for
confirmation?
-
--Flash!
- -----Original Message-----
From:
owner-team3s@team3s.com
[mailto:owner-team3s@team3s.com] On Behalf
Of
pvg1@daimlerchrysler.comSent:
Tuesday, February 26, 2002 13:58
To:
team3s@team3s.comSubject: RE: Team3S:
The $50 Iowa mod.
>> --Flash!
>> 1995 VR-4 and easily
fooled a G-Tech with a smooth
>> rolling start of 20 mph but it thought
I was
>> standing still so a 1/4 mile time of 9.00 seconds
>>
was attained
>Actually a rolling start should result in worse times
since the Gtech
will
>see less acceleration. Not that it
matters... The only real
indicators
of
>acceleration
performance are a dragstrip or a dyno.
Hehehe! Flash, this was your 60
mph (20 - 80) mph time. What a slow car
you
have - 0-60 in 9.00
seconds!
Philip
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 26 Feb 2002 11:28:50
-0800 (PST)
From: Geoff Mohler <
gemohler@www.speedtoys.com>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: The $50 Iowa mod.
Can we move this to the 3sracers
list?
Were gonna wake up the admins soon I feel..
On Tue, 26 Feb
2002, malthus wrote:
> It's not about sides, it's just about being
civil.
> "Can't we all just get along?"
> ----- Original Message
-----
> From: "Darren Schilberg" <
dschilberg@pobox.com>
> To:
"'malthus'" <
sithmax@optonline.net>
> Sent:
Tuesday, February 26, 2002 2:08 PM
> Subject: RE: Team3S: The $50 Iowa
mod.
>
> > Sa-weet. Love having you on my side. Matt
and I have gone back and
> > forth a ton of times and usually he is the
ONLY one out of 900 who will
> > go out of his way to make snide
remarks. I try and leave technical
> > content so I don't get
yelled at but still jab back at Matt when
> > necessary.
> >
> > Thanks.
> >
> > I see Rich FINALLY noted what
the mods were. I still don't care for
> > them. Hacking our
ECU gives us nearly limitless boost but nobody does
> > that you
realize.
> >
> > --Flash!
> >
> >
-----Original Message-----
> > From:
owner-team3s@team3s.com
[mailto:owner-team3s@team3s.com] On Behalf
> > Of malthus
> >
Sent: Tuesday, February 26, 2002 11:49
> > To: stealth list
>
> Subject: Re: Team3S: The $50 Iowa mod.
> >
> > "Really,
I don't care."
> > Wow, for somebody who doesn't care you sure went out
of your way to be
> > an
> > asshole. If somebody is wrong,
you teach them, not denigrate them.
> > "A spoonful of sugar helps the
medicine go down..."
> > ----- Original Message -----
> >
From: "Jannusch, Matt" <
mjannusch@marketwatch.com>
>
> To: <
dschilberg@pobox.com>;
<
team3S@stealth-3000gt.st>
>
> Sent: Tuesday, February 26, 2002 11:42 AM
> > Subject: RE: Team3S:
The $50 Iowa mod.
> >
> >
> > > > Matt -- See
the other email when I realize my mistake
> > > > of adding RT to
ET. Geez. It must be nice to be so
> > > > perfect
that you never make mistakes. When I see one
> > > > though
I'll be sure to point it out nice and bold.
> > >
> > >
I make my share of mistakes, but hopefully it isn't the broad trail of
>
> > errors and incorrect assumptions that you've left behind in the
list
> > > archives. It must be nice to be able to use Star
Trek physics to back
> > up
> > > your assumptions about
car handling and the like.
> > >
> > > >>
????? What do you think the Gtech measures? The
> > >
>> ONLY input the darn thing has is a single-axis
> > >
>> accelerometer. I suppose you believe it can magically
>
> > >> detect that you are already going 60 and give you the
>
> > >> head start?
> > >
> > > > Wrong
again. You set the G-Tech Pro to 0.00 on the
> > > > tilt
scale. If you are driving smooth on a smooth
> > > > road
in third gear at 60 mph then you can do this.
> > > > I think it
allows up to about 0.05 tilt before it
> > > > doesn't
register. Then you hit the switch for
> > > > "Start" and
it reads "GO" and then blinks "0.00"
> > > > and that is when you
can start accelerating. Can
> > > > someone with a G-Tech
do this? It measures a
> > > > 1/4 mile I believe and
flashes the time. I sold
> > > > mine so I don't have it
anymore.
> > >
> > > I don't know why I even
bother. I should just let this made-up crap
> > go
> >
by,
> > > hoping that everyone else realizes that you are just
making it up as
> > you
> > go.
> > >
> >
> You start by driving 60 MPH. Gtech sees "0" as its acceleration
rate.
> > > Gtech believes you are at a stop, since it assumes
starting from a
> > dead
> > > stop.
> >
>
> > > You hit the start button, it says "GO" on the
display. You accelerate
> > to
> > 70
> > >
MPH. Gtech now believes that you have accelerated to 10 MPH. If
you
> > hold
> > > that speed, it'll think 10 MPH for the
rest of the run. It has no
> > possible
> > > way to
measure that you are already going 60 at the start of the run.
> >
Does
> > > it take 9 seconds to go 1/4 mile at 10 MPH?
No.
> > >
> > > You could've just said that the Gtech is
not very accurate. We all
> > realize
> > >
that. Instead you made up some random story that doesn't make
sense
> > in
> > the
> > > real world and try to
pass it off as fact. Next you'll try to tell me
> > that
>
> > I've changed your words, or that you intended to convey something
else
> > or
> > > whatever.
> > >
> >
> Really, I don't care.
> > >
> > > -Matt
>
> > '95 3000GT Spyder VR4
> > > With Gtech Pro.
-
---
Geoff Mohler
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 26 Feb 2002 13:27:59
-0600
From: "Jannusch, Matt" <
mjannusch@marketwatch.com>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: The $50 Iowa mod.
> Philip -- I don't follow. The
G-Tech is not told
> to compute a 0-60 time if you have it set for
the
> 1/4 mile time. You can EITHER do a 0-60 and 60-0
> test
or a 1/4 mile test. The two can not be run at
> the same
time.
You set it to either timing or G-Force readings. G-Force
gives you either
HP or g-force, timing gives you either 0-60 or 1/4 mile,
depending on when
you let off the gas. If you let off between 60 and 70
it displays your 0-60
time, if you keep going then it displays 1/4 mile
time.
> Honestly ... does someone, anyone on the list
> have one
to try for confirmation?
I do.
- -Matt
'95 3000GT Spyder
VR4
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 26 Feb 2002 11:34:44
-0800
From: Damon Rachell <
damonr@mefas.com>
Subject: Re: Team3S:
The $50 Iowa mod.
Incorrect. The G-Tech measures the 0-60 time
first then if acceleration
is continued, it continues reading until 1/4 mile
is reached. That's
why you got a 9-second reading for what you thought
was the 1/4 when it
was 0-60.
Darren Schilberg wrote:
>
Philip -- I don't follow. The G-Tech is not told to compute a 0-60
time
> if you have it set for the 1/4 mile time. You can EITHER do a
0-60 and
> 60-0 test or a 1/4 mile test. The two can not be run at
the same time.
> The 1/4 mile run tells time and speed and the 0-60/60-0
tells time to 60
> mph and time from 60 mph to 0. By the way, the
9-second time was a
> guess.
>
> Honestly ... does someone,
anyone on the list have one to try for
> confirmation?
>
>
--Flash!
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From:
owner-team3s@team3s.com
[mailto:owner-team3s@team3s.com] On Behalf
> Of
pvg1@daimlerchrysler.com>
Sent: Tuesday, February 26, 2002 13:58
> To:
team3s@team3s.com> Subject: RE:
Team3S: The $50 Iowa mod.
>
>
>>>--Flash!
>>>1995 VR-4 and easily fooled a G-Tech
with a smooth
>>>rolling start of 20 mph but it thought I
was
>>>standing still so a 1/4 mile time of 9.00
seconds
>>>was attained
>>>
>
>>Actually
a rolling start should result in worse times since the Gtech
>>
>
will
>
>>see less acceleration. Not that it
matters... The only real
>>
> indicators
> of
>
>>acceleration performance are a dragstrip or a
dyno.
>>
>
> Hehehe! Flash, this was your 60 mph (20 - 80)
mph time. What a slow car
> you
> have - 0-60 in 9.00
seconds!
>
> Philip
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 26 Feb 2002 14:31:02
-0500
From: "Darren Schilberg" <
dschilberg@pobox.com>
Subject: RE:
Team3S: Wrapping IC pipes WAS: The $50 Iowa mod.
Erik -- Maybe
stock IC pipes are bad since they are mostly fabric
covering rubber I
think. Aftermarket hard IC pipes are all metal and
probably thinner
than stock since they are a larger ID. These are what
get real hot from
the rear turbo and air moving at ... say ... 150 cfm
don't have time to heat
up much going over the rear turbo but give them
2 feet of hot piping to
travel through and I bet it heats up. True once
the pipe gets hot it
will stay hot but the constant air moving through
should help to remove the
heat. Otherwise we need to re-think the IC
piping and put it not over
the turbo or engine area and keep it cold. I
don't think that will work
real well on the cars.
- --Flash!
1995 VR-4
- -----Original
Message-----
From: Geoff Mohler
Sent: Tuesday, February 26, 2002
13:02
Consider radiant energy, not just how hot the air
is.
Metals can get warmer than thier surrounding air pretty
easily.
On Tue, 26 Feb 2002, Gross, Erik wrote:
> > Wrapping
the IC pipes is free hp and easy (more or
> > less) to do but I still
don't see many of us doing
> > it. Why?
>
> Is it
free HP? On a 40F degree day, my underhood temps (other than
by
the
> firewall directly above the rear turbo) are around 60-65F
when
cruising
> above 35mph. When driving it hard, the temps
climb a few degrees, but
not
> more than 10F, especially if I'm going
fast. When motionless at idle
> they'll climb to 130-140F, but that
changes as soon as the car starts
> moving. I don't have data for
warmer ambient temps since it's still
winter
> here, but I'll get some
more data this summer.
>
> I'm guessing that for most of the IC
piping (except for directly above
the
> rear turbo) the heat transfer
is *from* the air in the pipe *to* the
air in
> the engine bay.
If that's true, then wrapping the IC pipes would
result in
> higher
intake temps and less hp. Maybe for drag cars that spend
some
time
> staging(high underhood temps) wrapping the IC pipes would
be useful,
but I'd
> think that even then, you would only want to wrap
the post-IC pipes as
the
> pre-IC temps will probably exceed the
underhood temps under boost.
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 26 Feb 2002 14:33:38
-0500
From:
pvg1@daimlerchrysler.comSubject:
RE: Team3S: The $50 Iowa mod.
The way you do it with the G-Tech, you set
it up for a normal 1/4 mile run,
but if you quit after you reach 60 mph it
tells you your 0-60 time.
Continue to the 1/4 mile mark and you get your ET
and speed.
Philip
>The G-Tech is not told to compute a 0-60
time
>if you have it set for the 1/4 mile time. You can EITHER do a
0-60 and
>60-0 test or a 1/4 mile test. The two can not be run at
the same time.
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 26 Feb 2002 11:37:20
-0800 (PST)
From: Geoff Mohler <
gemohler@www.speedtoys.com>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: Wrapping IC pipes WAS: The $50 Iowa mod.
> Erik --
Maybe stock IC pipes are bad since they are mostly fabric
> covering
rubber I think. Aftermarket hard IC pipes are all metal and
>
probably thinner than stock since they are a larger ID. These are
what
> get real hot from the rear turbo and air moving at ... say ... 150
cfm
> don't have time to heat up much going over the rear turbo but give
them
> 2 feet of hot piping to travel through and I bet it heats up.
True once
> the pipe gets hot it will stay hot but the constant air moving
through
> should help to remove the heat. Otherwise we need to
re-think the IC
> piping and put it not over the turbo or engine area and
keep it cold. I
> don't think that will work real well on the
cars.
- ---
But when every erg is power..can it hurt?
No.
Also..dont underestimate the power of how well air can cool a
hot
surface..esp when under pressure.
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 26 Feb 2002 11:43:55
-0800
From: Damon Rachell <
damonr@mefas.com>
Subject: Re: Team3S:
Wrapping IC pipes WAS: The $50 Iowa mod.
What are you saying?
Really? Are you for real? First off, because a
pipe has a larger
diameter it has a thinner sidewall? WTF? Second, the
air gets
hot from the pipes not the turbo compressing the air? Again,
WTF? Please say that I misunderstood your babble.
Let me try to
elaborate on Geoff's comments and others, who actually
make sense.
heat from the exhaust manifold and turbo exhaust pipes
radiate heat which is
absorbed by the IC outlet pipes and the Y-pipe.
If these are insolated (both
intake pipes and exhaust pipes) then the
heat transfer between the two is
reduced. Cooler intake charge, hotter
exhaust charge. Both lead
to greater power; denser intake charge,
greater energy transfer to the
turbo.
Nuf Sed.
Darren Schilberg wrote:
> Erik -- Maybe
stock IC pipes are bad since they are mostly fabric
> covering rubber I
think. Aftermarket hard IC pipes are all metal and
> probably
thinner than stock since they are a larger ID. These are what
> get
real hot from the rear turbo and air moving at ... say ... 150 cfm
> don't
have time to heat up much going over the rear turbo but give them
> 2 feet
of hot piping to travel through and I bet it heats up. True once
>
the pipe gets hot it will stay hot but the constant air moving through
>
should help to remove the heat. Otherwise we need to re-think the
IC
> piping and put it not over the turbo or engine area and keep it
cold. I
> don't think that will work real well on the cars.
>
> --Flash!
> 1995 VR-4
>
> -----Original
Message-----
> From: Geoff Mohler
> Sent: Tuesday, February 26, 2002
13:02
>
> Consider radiant energy, not just how hot the air
is.
>
> Metals can get warmer than thier surrounding air pretty
easily.
>
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 26 Feb 2002 14:39:20
-0500
From: "Darren Schilberg" <
dschilberg@pobox.com>
Subject: RE:
Team3S: The $50 Iowa mod.
Damon, The 9-second was a guess. It could
have been 4 seconds for all I
know. But if you do a 1/4 mile run it
does NOT show you the 0-60 time.
It shows only the 1/4 time and 1/4 speed OR
the 0-60 time and 60-0 time.
And for those who have this device and can't
figure out how to get a
60-0 time you need to wait until the 0-60 time
registers and *then*
stomp on the brakes for your 60-0 time.
Are we in
agreement that both of these statements are true? Sure it
will display
a 0-60 time on the way to the 1/4 mile time but the 0-60
time does not stay
there for the 1/4 mile run like it does on a
dragstrip ticket (which gives
all sorts of extra numbers that the G-Tech
doesn't show like 1/8 mile time
and speed, etc.).
And I'll bet that if you get to 70 mph and stop (for a
0-60 mph reading)
and get 5 of them then do five 1/4 mile runs that the 0-60
for the 1/4
and the 0-60 alone will not be too close. This is a guess
as usually
the 1/4 mile is run in two directions since a nice flat secluded
road
around here is hard to find but 0-60 doesn't take very much road at
all.
Wait ... I think the G-Tech measures 0-60 once it
recognizes
acceleration and then if you don't slow down after getting to 60
mph it
keeps timing until you do a 1/4 mile or until it reaches 30
seconds. I
think you can maintain throttle once hitting 60 mph and it
will keep
timing as it doesn't care about acceleration (like an under-powered
Yugo
might not be able to accelerate fast enough after 60 so the G-Tech
just
keeps timing until it runs out of road). Isn't that right?
You can
certainly do a 1/4 mile drag at 20 mph the whole way or get to 60
mph
and cruise in 2nd gear the rest of the way but what reading will
the
G-Tech give. Matt? Wanna test that? I'm interested
actually since I
haven't done that test on it yet.
- --Flash!
-
-----Original Message-----
From: Damon Rachell [mailto:damonr@mefas.com]
Sent: Tuesday, February 26, 2002 14:35
Incorrect. The
G-Tech measures the 0-60 time first then if acceleration
is continued, it
continues reading until 1/4 mile is reached. That's
why you got a
9-second reading for what you thought was the 1/4 when it
was
0-60.
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 26 Feb 2002 11:51:08
-0800
From: Damon Rachell <
damonr@mefas.com>
Subject: Re: Team3S:
The $50 Iowa mod.
This is a list of facts and information. Not
speculation or conjecture.
If you would like to confer with your
colleagues about how things
might work or if you are not sure and want
correction from people who
know, then state so. Do not put your
arguements out there to people who
do not know better. Some people
might think that you actually know how
a G-Tech works.
Darren
Schilberg wrote:
> Damon, The 9-second was a guess. It could
have been 4 seconds for all I
> know. But if you do a 1/4 mile run
it does NOT show you the 0-60 time.
> It shows only the 1/4 time and 1/4
speed OR the 0-60 time and 60-0 time.
>
> And for those who have
this device and can't figure out how to get a
> 60-0 time you need to wait
until the 0-60 time registers and *then*
> stomp on the brakes for your
60-0 time.
>
> Are we in agreement that both of these statements
are true? Sure it
> will display a 0-60 time on the way to the 1/4
mile time but the 0-60
> time does not stay there for the 1/4 mile run
like it does on a
> dragstrip ticket (which gives all sorts of extra
numbers that the G-Tech
> doesn't show like 1/8 mile time and speed,
etc.).
>
> And I'll bet that if you get to 70 mph and stop (for a
0-60 mph reading)
> and get 5 of them then do five 1/4 mile runs that the
0-60 for the 1/4
> and the 0-60 alone will not be too close. This is
a guess as usually
> the 1/4 mile is run in two directions since a nice
flat secluded road
> around here is hard to find but 0-60 doesn't take
very much road at all.
>
> Wait ... I think the G-Tech measures
0-60 once it recognizes
> acceleration and then if you don't slow down
after getting to 60 mph it
> keeps timing until you do a 1/4 mile or until
it reaches 30 seconds. I
> think you can maintain throttle once
hitting 60 mph and it will keep
> timing as it doesn't care about
acceleration (like an under-powered Yugo
> might not be able to accelerate
fast enough after 60 so the G-Tech just
> keeps timing until it runs out
of road). Isn't that right? You can
> certainly do a 1/4 mile
drag at 20 mph the whole way or get to 60 mph
> and cruise in 2nd gear the
rest of the way but what reading will the
> G-Tech give. Matt?
Wanna test that? I'm interested actually since I
> haven't done that
test on it yet.
>
> --Flash!
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 26 Feb 2002 20:41:58
+0100
From: "Roger Gerl" <
roger.gerl@bluewin.ch>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: RE: Team3s: Pressure in the BOV line
> - GReddy PRofec
stepper motor
> - GReddy electronic boost gauge sending unit
> - GM
3-bar MAP sensor (DOA, AFAIK - @#%$!)
I do have the MAP sensor at the BOV
line.
At the FPR line are :
- - DSBC
- - DTT
- - 43mm gauge
(only with it a ripple in the boost can be seen)
> MAP sensor:
3-wires (+5V, +0V, signal) and I verified that the +5V and
+0V
> are
correct at the harness. The signal line sits at almost +0V
and
doesn't
> move when I use a hand pump to raise the pressure in the
line. It's brand
> spankin' new, too... When it's powered up,
the +5V line drops to 1.8V,
> though - don't know why - must be a big
current drain somewhere.
I do have some of these MAP sensors here. What
type did you use ? What lines
did you use for +5V and Ground ? Using the
orange wire of the MF2 is good
for 5V.
The 3 bar map sensor has a full
output voltage of 4.92 volts, in turn cover
a boost range of 3bars.
Alternatively, each bar represents 1.64 volts. The
boost range 1.6bar - 2.2
bar (absolute) is same as 2.6v to 3.6v output of
the MAP
sensor.
Roger
93'3000GT TT
www.rtec.ch*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 26 Feb 2002 13:46:35
-0600
From: "Jannusch, Matt" <
mjannusch@marketwatch.com>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: Wrapping IC pipes WAS: The $50 Iowa mod.
> Let me
try to elaborate on Geoff's comments and
> others, who actually make
sense. heat from the
> exhaust manifold and turbo exhaust pipes
radiate
> heat which is absorbed by the IC outlet pipes
> and the
Y-pipe. If these are insolated (both
> intake pipes and exhaust
pipes) then the heat
> transfer between the two is reduced.
Cooler
> intake charge, hotter exhaust charge. Both
> lead to
greater power; denser intake charge,
> greater energy transfer to the
turbo.
Now that was some really good info, stated in a very clear
way. I'm
actually thinking that the hard pipes that I put onto my car
may have
reduced overall intercooling efficiency since they replaced several
sections
of "insulated" rubber tubing with aluminum which is much more
thermally
conductive.
I hadn't ever considered that...
The IC
outlet pipes are pretty well out of the hot area of the engine
compartment -
but the pipes that bring the cooled air to the throttle body
used to be
either plastic or rubber on the stock setup and now on my car are
mostly
aluminum.
Hmmm... I don't feel quite as positive about the hard
pipe upgrade anymore.
I'm sure the pressure drop is less in the new pipes,
but the insulation to
underhood heat is certainly worse. It would be
interesting to see just what
the differences are.
- -Matt
'95
3000GT Spyder VR4
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 26 Feb 2002 14:47:43
-0500
From: "Darren Schilberg" <
dschilberg@pobox.com>
Subject: RE:
Team3S: The $50 Iowa mod.
Thanks, Matt. I made the same comment
off-list to the appropriate
people as people have reminded me of the same
rule (or to keep things
technical in content). Kudos for speaking up
for the silent ones and
glad your thoughts were not entirely your own.
I didn't receive any
other emails so had to go on thinking that it was a slow
news day and
nobody had any other thoughts.
Still ... would like to
know some of the "other" tests that the G-Tech
has setup that have not been
tried. I know it starts timing when the
car tilts like when wheels are
spinning on the starting line but if the
car does not break the timing light
at the dragstrip then the timing
doesn't start yet. These little
differences are what help to tell when
a result is way off or close to being
correct.
- --Flash!
- -----Original Message-----
From:
Jannusch, Matt
Sent: Tuesday, February 26, 2002 14:37
"11.
NEVER post a private Email that you've received to the list (any
list)
without the author's permission. Doing something like this is
in
the
same category as opening someone else's mail, or peeking at a
friend's
diary
when they aren't looking... It's not only
ill-mannered and crass - in
most
areas and situations it is illegal!
It is a MAJOR violation as far as
we
are concerned, so you will be removed
from the Team3S list immediately."
FYI.
Interestingly enough I got
email from seven different people thanking me
for
saying what they wanted
to but didn't. Go figure.
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 26 Feb 2002 20:47:10
+0100
From: "Roger Gerl" <
roger.gerl@bluewin.ch>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: The $50 Iowa mod. ADMIN NOOTICE
Would you guys mind to change
the topic of the mails to "G-Tech readings" ?
Thanks
Roger for the
Admins
- ----- Original Message -----
From: "Damon Rachell" <
damonr@mefas.com>
To: <
dschilberg@pobox.com>
Cc: <
team3s@team3s.com>
Sent: Tuesday,
February 26, 2002 8:34 PM
Subject: Re: Team3S: The $50 Iowa mod.
>
Incorrect. The G-Tech measures the 0-60 time first then if acceleration
> is continued, it continues reading until 1/4 mile is reached.
That's
> why you got a 9-second reading for what you thought was the 1/4
when it
> was 0-60.
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 26 Feb 2002 13:56:10
-0600
From: "Jannusch, Matt" <
mjannusch@marketwatch.com>
Subject:
Team3S: Gtech Pro
> Still ... would like to know some of the "other"
tests
> that the G-Tech has setup that have not been tried.
I think
we've pretty much listed them all in pieces over a bunch of
different
messages.
0-60 acceleration time
60-0 braking (in feet)
1/4 mile
time and trap speed
G-force (maximum)
G-force (current)
Horsepower
estimate
You can also get cornering force by orienting the Gtech sideways
so its
front is facing towards the side of the car instead of the
front.
0-60 is engaged by slowing down after passing 60 MPH. If you
stay hard on
the brakes it will tell you how many feet it took to stop from
60 to 0 MPH.
If you continue accelerating past 65 or so then it will keep
timing to the
1/4 mile time and trap speed.
G-Force can be set to
either "instantaneous" or "continuous" mode.
Instantaneous essentially looks
for the peak force. Continuous flashes the
real-time force on the
display as quick as it can.
The G-Force measurements are pretty
accurate. The timing-type ones can be
anywhere from pretty accurate to
not very accurate depending primarily on
how much your car
squats/rises/rolls/etc.
- -Matt
'95 3000GT Spyder VR4
***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 26 Feb 2002 15:01:47
-0500
From: "Darren Schilberg" <
dschilberg@pobox.com>
Subject: RE:
Team3S: Wrapping IC pipes WAS: The $50 Iowa mod.
No, Damon, I said
that "aftermarket IC pipes are probably thinner than
stock since they have a
larger ID" meaning that they are all metal and
don't need 1/8" inch of fabric
over 1/4" of rubber but instead have an
1/8" wall thickness meaning they can
be 1/4" larger inside radius or
1/2" larger inside diameter. Since most
IC pipes I've seen hit the
underside of the hood on the right side of the A/C
pipes near the cruise
control box then obviously they are a larger OD than
stock (or have a
bad mounting kit). I bet they are thinner wall
thickness too therefore
they are a larger ID as well. Larger air pipes
are good but they are
also thinner and less insulated than stock I
bet.
Would the normal person want a larger ID or a better insulated
pipe?
Well both, really. So how do you get there? Wrapping the
pipes (I
don't think I said ALL of the IC pipes, did I?) but wrap the ones
that
you want to insulate from hot areas since cold air is more dense.
Don't
tell me people are paying $600 for pipes of the same ID and just
made
out of metal. Surely they are a larger ID.
Note: all
numbers in this post are made-up to throw off the public ...
no measurements
were made and no cars were harmed during the writing of
this email.
-
--Flash!
- -----Original Message-----
From: Damon Rachell
Sent:
Tuesday, February 26, 2002 14:44
What are you saying?
Really? Are you for real? First off, because a
pipe has a larger
diameter it has a thinner sidewall? WTF? Second, the
air gets
hot from the pipes not the turbo compressing the air? Again,
WTF? Please say that I misunderstood your babble.
Let me try to
elaborate on Geoff's comments and others, who actually
make sense.
heat from the exhaust manifold and turbo exhaust pipes
radiate heat which is
absorbed by the IC outlet pipes and the Y-pipe.
If these are insolated (both
intake pipes and exhaust pipes) then the
heat transfer between the two is
reduced. Cooler intake charge, hotter
exhaust charge. Both lead
to greater power; denser intake charge,
greater energy transfer to the
turbo.
Nuf Sed.
Darren Schilberg wrote:
> Erik -- Maybe
stock IC pipes are bad since they are mostly fabric
> covering rubber I
think. Aftermarket hard IC pipes are all metal and
> probably
thinner than stock since they are a larger ID. These are
what
>
get real hot from the rear turbo and air moving at ... say ... 150 cfm
>
don't have time to heat up much going over the rear turbo but
give
them
> 2 feet of hot piping to travel through and I bet it heats
up. True
once
> the pipe gets hot it will stay hot but the
constant air moving through
> should help to remove the heat.
Otherwise we need to re-think the IC
> piping and put it not over the
turbo or engine area and keep it cold.
I
> don't think that will work
real well on the cars.
>
> --Flash!
> 1995
VR-4
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 26 Feb 2002 15:05:04
-0500
From: "Darren Schilberg" <
dschilberg@pobox.com>
Subject: RE:
Team3S: Wrapping IC pipes WAS: The $50 Iowa mod.
Matt -- Could it
be that the larger diameter hard IC pipes are moving
air faster (what
intercooler or turbo mods are there) and therefore the
faster air doesn't get
as heated since it is a larger volume to heat?
So maybe someone's air temp
before and after the turbo in a stock IC
pipe and before and after the turbo
in a hard IC pipe upgrade are enough
difference. Maybe the same on the
Intercoolers (if they see less temp
then they can drop it farther I bet
unless it is being shoved in so fast
it doesn't have a chance to cool it
all).
Just calling it as I see it. A friend had hard IC pipes and
wrapped the
portion above the rear and front turbo and said his butt dyno
felt a
small change from before. Not sure if it was true or not but it
seemed
logical.
- --Flash!
- -----Original
Message-----
From: Jannusch, Matt
Sent: Tuesday, February 26, 2002
14:47
> Let me try to elaborate on Geoff's comments and
>
others, who actually make sense. heat from the
> exhaust manifold
and turbo exhaust pipes radiate
> heat which is absorbed by the IC outlet
pipes
> and the Y-pipe. If these are insolated (both
> intake
pipes and exhaust pipes) then the heat
> transfer between the two is
reduced. Cooler
> intake charge, hotter exhaust charge.
Both
> lead to greater power; denser intake charge,
> greater
energy transfer to the turbo.
Now that was some really good info, stated
in a very clear way. I'm
actually thinking that the hard pipes that I
put onto my car may have
reduced overall intercooling efficiency since they
replaced several
sections
of "insulated" rubber tubing with aluminum which
is much more thermally
conductive.
I hadn't ever considered
that...
The IC outlet pipes are pretty well out of the hot area of the
engine
compartment - but the pipes that bring the cooled air to the
throttle
body
used to be either plastic or rubber on the stock setup and
now on my car
are
mostly aluminum.
Hmmm... I don't feel quite
as positive about the hard pipe upgrade
anymore.
I'm sure the pressure
drop is less in the new pipes, but the insulation
to
underhood heat is
certainly worse. It would be interesting to see just
what
the
differences are.
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 26 Feb 2002 13:08:42
-0700
From: "Floyd, Jim" <
Jim_Floyd@maxtor.com>
Subject: RE:
Team3S: Wrapping IC pipes WAS: The $50 Iowa mod.
Would ceramic
coating the pipes help reduce the heat transfer ?
- -----Original
Message-----
From: Jannusch, Matt [mailto:mjannusch@marketwatch.com]
Sent:
Tuesday, February 26, 2002 12:47 PM
To: 'Damon Rachell'
Cc:
team3S@stealth-3000gt.stSubject:
RE: Team3S: Wrapping IC pipes WAS: The $50 Iowa mod.
> Let me try to
elaborate on Geoff's comments and
> others, who actually make sense.
heat from the
> exhaust manifold and turbo exhaust pipes radiate
>
heat which is absorbed by the IC outlet pipes
> and the Y-pipe. If
these are insolated (both
> intake pipes and exhaust pipes) then the
heat
> transfer between the two is reduced. Cooler
> intake
charge, hotter exhaust charge. Both
> lead to greater power; denser
intake charge,
> greater energy transfer to the turbo.
Now that
was some really good info, stated in a very clear way. I'm
actually
thinking that the hard pipes that I put onto my car may have
reduced overall
intercooling efficiency since they replaced several sections
of "insulated"
rubber tubing with aluminum which is much more thermally
conductive.
I
hadn't ever considered that...
The IC outlet pipes are pretty well out of
the hot area of the engine
compartment - but the pipes that bring the cooled
air to the throttle body
used to be either plastic or rubber on the stock
setup and now on my car are
mostly aluminum.
Hmmm... I don't
feel quite as positive about the hard pipe upgrade anymore.
I'm sure the
pressure drop is less in the new pipes, but the insulation to
underhood heat
is certainly worse. It would be interesting to see just what
the
differences are.
- -Matt
'95 3000GT Spyder VR4
***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 26 Feb 2002 14:10:21
-0600
From: "Jannusch, Matt" <
mjannusch@marketwatch.com>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: Wrapping IC pipes WAS: The $50 Iowa mod.
> Would
ceramic coating the pipes help reduce
> the heat transfer ?
I'd
assume that it would reduce heat transfer by quite a bit...
There's
only one way to find out for sure. :-)
- -Matt
'95
3000GT Spyder VR4
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 26 Feb 2002 14:11:07
-0600
From: "Willis, Charles E." <
cewillis@TexasChildrensHospital.org>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: Idle Problem
turbo or NA?
Look for a big vacuum leak, like
on the intake to the throttle body.
If turbo - check hoses to and from the
intercoolers.
Chuck
> -----Original Message-----
>
From: Jay Stump [SMTP:jstump@erols.com]
> Sent: Tuesday, February 26, 2002
12:05 PM
> To:
Team3S@stealth-3000gt.st>
Subject: Team3S: Idle Problem
>
> The car revs sporatically from
1100 to 1600 until the car comes to a
> stop then it revs to 2000
RPM,. Any Ideas what the problem is????
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 26 Feb 2002 14:12:56
-0600
From: "Jannusch, Matt" <
mjannusch@marketwatch.com>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: Wrapping IC pipes WAS: The $50 Iowa mod.
> Matt --
Could it be that the larger diameter
> hard IC pipes are moving air faster
(what
> intercooler or turbo mods are there) and
> therefore the
faster air doesn't get as
> heated since it is a larger volume to
heat?
I'd imagine the larger pipes are actually reducing velocity, but
allowing
for more peak flow. They should be less restrictive as they
are all
mandrel-bent and contain a lot fewer bends than the stock rubber
hoses. I
really have no idea on the heat effects, and it's a ton of
work to swap all
the pipes to measure the differences.
As to which
mods are on my car - a pair of ported 15G turbos, HKS
intercoolers and the
HKS hard pipe kit. The pipes are significantly larger
diameter than the
stock hoses and are black powder-coated. I doubt the
powdercoating
changes the insulating characteristics of the pipes much
though.
-
-Matt
'95 3000GT Spyder VR4
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 26 Feb 2002 14:40:01
-0600
From:
daedel@mac.comSubject:
Team3S: Knock (or something like that)
I've got a 94 3000gt NA with
89,000 miles on it and occasionally I've
gotten what seems like knock when
accelerating. I've never experienced
knock (what I know to be knock for
sure) so I don't know what it feels
like exactly and at this point I'm
guessing. Its like a slight jerk when
the pedal is down. This only seems to
happen below 3000 rpm and it
happens a lot when for instance I'm going 30ish
through a neighborhood
with the car in fifth and push the pedal to the
floor. I've heard that
knock is the inability of the fuel system to get
enough fuel into the
cylinder so might this be faulty fuel injectors? If
it's not knock what
else might it be? If this is common I guess I just can't
drive in high
gears, any input would be great.
-
-David
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 26 Feb 2002 15:41:57
-0500
From: "Furman, Russell" <
RFurman2@MassMutual.com>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: Knock (or something like that)
What are you doing in fifth at
only 30? Sounds like you are lugging the
motor which is causing the
knock...... Try doing the same thing in third
and report
back
> -----Original Message-----
> From:
daedel@mac.com [SMTP:daedel@mac.com]
>
Sent: Tuesday, February 26, 2002 3:40 PM
> To:
team3s@team3s.com> Subject: Team3S:
Knock (or something like that)
>
> I've got a 94 3000gt NA with
89,000 miles on it and occasionally I've
> gotten what seems like knock
when accelerating. I've never experienced
> knock (what I know to be
knock for sure) so I don't know what it feels
> like exactly and at this
point I'm guessing. Its like a slight jerk when
> the pedal is down. This
only seems to happen below 3000 rpm and it
> happens a lot when for
instance I'm going 30ish through a neighborhood
> with the car in fifth
and push the pedal to the floor. I've heard that
> knock is the inability
of the fuel system to get enough fuel into the
> cylinder so might this
be faulty fuel injectors? If it's not knock what
> else might it be? If
this is common I guess I just can't drive in high
> gears, any input
would be great.
>
> -David
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 26 Feb 2002 15:46:16
-0500
From: "Darren Schilberg" <
dschilberg@pobox.com>
Subject: RE:
Team3S: Re: Difference in boost gauge
readings...
Damon,
This was the part that I didn't
understand, "[you] tapped into the
VACUUM LINES, the ones that correspond to
the FPR and the clutch vacuum
assist ([you] believe)." I did read I
just didn't understand those
lines as I thought most used the vacuum line
elsewhere in the system. I
just haven't seen enough
descriptions/pictures of other methods so I'm
glad to see other ways of doing
it. I was also wondering how many taps
off a single line until it
started to notice a drop or difference than
no taps.
Maybe
you can post some pictures (which would then be fact) and help
explain the
situation. The style of BOV you have (noted below)
confounds the
problem but you didn't note that earlier and it probably
would have helped
instead of letting us ass-u-me that it was a stock
BOV.
P.S. Damon - I
don't believe the Rules state that only facts and not
factoids are
allowed. It merely mentions that the posts have
technical
content. I've seen posts regarding plastic parts on here and
(my
degree/background/experience is in Plastic Engineering Technology)
and
although they are incorrect and wrong they are still allowed ...
it
offers someone with that experience to correct the mistakes. I
think
most email programs offer a way to filter or just hit the
<expletives
removed> Delete key. Maybe I should do that for your
stuff next time.
- --Flash!
- -----Original Message-----
From:
Damon Rachell
Sent: Tuesday, February 26, 2002 14:29
Darren, you
obviously don't read because I specified first and foremost
that I tapped
into the VACUUM LINES, the ones that correspond to the FPR
and the clutch
vacuum assist (i believe). The reason to do that is
because tapping
into the same line can increase the total volume of the
system decreasing
the accuracy of the boost measurement.
Erik, you're exactly right.
I've got the DSBC tucked away in the center
console along with my turbo
timer. The DEFI boost gauge is sold by a
couple of complanies.
It's also a turbo timer but since I've already
got one of those hooked up,
no need for two. Bigger pain to hook up the
DEFI (need blitz
adapter- $30) anyways.
The problem with me tapping into the BOV vacuum
hose is that I've got a
turboXS type-H BOV. Although it isn't an open
system, it does not have
a diaphram like the stock valve. So, does
that mean that this line is
out of the question?
I still want to
resort back to the original question: Why the change in
boost
between the two gauges on different lines when originally, on the
same line,
I was getting the same readings.
Damon
PS- Flash, don't answer unless
you're spitting out facts, not factoids.
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 26 Feb 2002 14:46:50
-0600
From:
daedel@mac.comSubject:
Re: Team3S: Knock (or something like that)
It'll do it at higher speeds
in 3rd occasionally, I just said that it
happens a lot in that instance and
its the same feeling.
On Tuesday, February 26, 2002, at 02:41 PM, Furman,
Russell wrote:
> What are you doing in fifth at only 30? Sounds
like you are lugging the
> motor which is causing the knock......
Try doing the same thing in
> third
> and report
back
>
>> -----Original Message-----
>> From:
daedel@mac.com
[SMTP:daedel@mac.com]
>> Sent: Tuesday, February 26, 2002 3:40
PM
>> To:
team3s@team3s.com>> Subject:
Team3S: Knock (or something like that)
>>
>> I've got a 94
3000gt NA with 89,000 miles on it and occasionally I've
>> gotten what
seems like knock when accelerating. I've never experienced
>> knock
(what I know to be knock for sure) so I don't know what it feels
>>
like exactly and at this point I'm guessing. Its like a slight jerk
>>
when
>> the pedal is down. This only seems to happen below 3000 rpm and
it
>> happens a lot when for instance I'm going 30ish through a
neighborhood
>> with the car in fifth and push the pedal to the floor.
I've heard that
>> knock is the inability of the fuel system to get
enough fuel into the
>> cylinder so might this be faulty fuel
injectors? If it's not knock what
>> else might it be? If this is
common I guess I just can't drive in high
>> gears, any input would be
great.
>>
>> -David
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 26 Feb 2002 12:57:25
-0800 (PST)
From: Geoff Mohler <
gemohler@www.speedtoys.com>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: Wrapping IC pipes WAS: The $50 Iowa mod.
yes, but
nothing is better than using air to insulate. It might look
funky, but
alumized buggbel wrap works like a dream.
On Tue, 26 Feb 2002, Jannusch,
Matt wrote:
> > Would ceramic coating the pipes help reduce
>
> the heat transfer ?
>
> I'd assume that it would reduce heat
transfer by quite a bit... There's
> only one way to find out for
sure. :-)
>
> -Matt
> '95 3000GT Spyder VR4
-
---
Geoff Mohler
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 26 Feb 2002 14:55:27
-0600
From: "Willis, Charles E." <
cewillis@TexasChildrensHospital.org>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: Knock (or something like that)
I bet you are a lot below
3000rpm in 5th gear at 30 mph, otherwise your
clutch is only partially
engaged!
Now if it happens occassionally at higher speeds in 3rd gear
during
accelleration, maybe it is a bad throttle position sensor, although
this
usually generates a computer code and a check engine light. Bad
TPS does
that for any gear at the same approximate location of the throttle,
so
different rpms.
Is that closer to what you are
describing?
Chuck Willis
> -----Original
Message-----
> From:
daedel@mac.com
[SMTP:daedel@mac.com]
> Sent: Tuesday, February 26, 2002 2:47 PM
>
To: Furman, Russell
> Cc:
team3s@team3s.com> Subject: Re:
Team3S: Knock (or something like that)
>
> It'll do it at higher
speeds in 3rd occasionally, I just said that it
> happens a lot in that
instance and its the same feeling.
>
>
> >>
>
>> I've got a 94 3000gt NA with 89,000 miles on it and occasionally
I've
> >> gotten what seems like knock when accelerating. I've never
experienced
> >> knock (what I know to be knock for sure) so I don't
know what it feels
> >> like exactly and at this point I'm guessing.
Its like a slight jerk
> >> when
> >> the pedal is
down. This only seems to happen below 3000 rpm and it
> >> happens a
lot when for instance I'm going 30ish through a neighborhood
> >>
with the car in fifth
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 26 Feb 2002 13:18:44
-0800
From: "fastmax" <
fastmax@cox.net>
Subject: Re: Team3S:
Wrapping IC pipes WAS: The $50 Iowa mod.
The key to the issue is
whether or not air under the hood is cooler than the
I/C pipe. Even
with moderate radiant heat if the pipe is hotter than the
ambient air it will
lose some heat --- the more temperature differential the
more heat
transfer.
Under full boost the air in the I/C pipes right out of the
turbos is about 250º,
at this point as long as the engine compartment is not
heat soaked the I/C
piping will shed heat. The turbo input temp is assumed to
be 90º and the
boost pressure is 15 psi. If the car is moving the
underhood temps will be
about 10º above ambient.
After the intercooler
the temp inside the pipes is around 115º ---- this is for
an 80% efficient
intercooler and ambient around 90º. Under these conditions
it's hard to tell
if the temperature difference and radiant heat is enough to
heat or cool the
air in the pipes.
Coatings can be applied to cause the pipes to shed or
retain heat --- at least
according to Swain coatings. Coating the pipes to
shed heat before the I/C
would seem correct.
That being said there may
be different requirements for ¼ mile guys and us
boy racer track types ----
if the engine compartment is heat soaked things are
different for the first 5
or 10 or seconds until underhood temps cool down but
I don't think under hood
temps of more that 160º are common.
I went through a short experiment in
underhood temps and a year or two ago
found that at idle [ 80º day ] the
under hood temps went up to about 130º and
as soon as the car started to move
they started dropping to about 90º. I did
these measurements with 4 mil bead
thermocouple at the air cleaner. Of interest
I found that at WOT the temps
rose rapidly, getting up to 125º and still climbing
when I had to back off
the throttle. I'd like to try the same experiments on a
track
someday.
My guess is that for the pipes before the I/C should be
unwrapped and coated
to shed heat.
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 26 Feb 2002 16:19:25
-0500
From: "Zobel, Kurt" <
KURT.ZOBEL@ca.com>
Subject: RE:
Team3S: Gtech Fool; was The $50 Iowa mod.
I have never tried to fool my
Gtech, but you are correct about the report.
If you go over 60 then slow
down to some minimal value it shows 0-60 TIME and 60-0 FEET I think, not time.
If you get through a qtr mile before you stop, then it gives the qtr time and
mph.
I have always had good results with my Gtech, on fairly level roads.
A few tenths higher in ET from Pomona runs, and a few MPH higher too, but
very consistent. But I am NA, so maybe less body lean on launches.
Kurt
- -----Original
Message-----
From: Darren Schilberg [mailto:dschilberg@pobox.com]
Sent:
Tuesday, February 26, 2002 11:24 AM
To:
team3s@team3s.comSubject: RE: Team3S:
The $50 Iowa mod.
Philip -- I don't follow. The G-Tech is not told
to compute a 0-60 time
if you have it set for the 1/4 mile time. You
can EITHER do a 0-60 and
60-0 test or a 1/4 mile test. The two can not
be run at the same time.
The 1/4 mile run tells time and speed and the
0-60/60-0 tells time to 60
mph and time from 60 mph to 0. By the way,
the 9-second time was a
guess.
Honestly ... does someone, anyone on
the list have one to try for
confirmation?
- --Flash!
***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 26 Feb 2002 16:23:07
-0500
From: "Zobel, Kurt" <
KURT.ZOBEL@ca.com>
Subject: RE:
Team3S: The $50 Iowa mod.
That's Right! It flashes 0-60 until you hit the
qtr mile.
- -----Original Message-----
From: Damon Rachell
[mailto:damonr@mefas.com]
Sent: Tuesday, February 26, 2002 11:35 AM
To:
dschilberg@pobox.comCc:
team3s@team3s.comSubject: Re: Team3S:
The $50 Iowa mod.
Incorrect. The G-Tech measures the 0-60 time
first then if acceleration
is continued, it continues reading until 1/4 mile
is reached. That's
why you got a 9-second reading for what you thought
was the 1/4 when it
was 0-60.
Darren Schilberg wrote:
>
Philip -- I don't follow. The G-Tech is not told to compute a 0-60
time
> if you have it set for the 1/4 mile time. You can EITHER do a
0-60 and
> 60-0 test or a 1/4 mile test. The two can not be run at
the same time.
> The 1/4 mile run tells time and speed and the 0-60/60-0
tells time to 60
> mph and time from 60 mph to 0. By the way, the
9-second time was a
> guess.
>
> Honestly ... does someone,
anyone on the list have one to try for
> confirmation?
>
>
--Flash!
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 26 Feb 2002 13:29:15
-0800
From: "Gross, Erik" <
erik.gross@intel.com>
Subject: RE:
Team3S: Knock (or something like that)
When I experienced
pinging/knocking under high loads in my '95 NA DOHC
3000GT, it ended up being
from silly-high compression caused by carbon
build-up on the piston
tops. I cleaned off the carbon from the piston tops
(and combustion
chamber) and it went away.
Afterwards, my compression readings went back
to normal and I have very
noticeably reduced engine braking when slowing the
car down in gear. No
more knocking and pinging.
I don't
specifically know what caused it, but I'm sure my driving it 1 mile
to work 5
days a week for 1.5 years in WA's cooler climate didn't help.
This may or
may not be contributing to your problems, but it's something to
think
about.
- --Erik
'95 VR-4, previously '95 NA
***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 26 Feb 2002 16:31:44
-0500
From: "Furman, Russell" <
RFurman2@MassMutual.com>
Subject:
FW: Team3S: Wrapping IC pipes WAS: The $50 Iowa mod.
>
-----Original Message-----
> From: fastmax [SMTP:fastmax@cox.net]
>
Sent: Tuesday, February 26, 2002 4:19 PM
> To: Floyd, Jim;
team3S@stealth-3000gt.st>
Subject: Re: Team3S: Wrapping IC pipes WAS: The $50 Iowa mod.
>
<snip>
> Under full boost the air in the I/C pipes right out of
the turbos is about
> 250º,
> at this point as long as the engine
compartment is not heat soaked the I/C
> piping will shed heat. The turbo
input temp is assumed to be 90º and the
> boost pressure is 15 psi.
If the car is moving the underhood temps will
> be
> about 10º above
ambient.
<snip>
I wonder if coating the turbine wheel (not
compressor) would help reduce lag
and heat transfer along the shaft to the
comp wheel?
Also coating the exh manifolds and turbine housing should
help drop under
hood temps.
> Coatings can be applied to cause the
pipes to shed or retain heat --- at
> least
> according to Swain
coatings. Coating the pipes to shed heat before the I/C
> would seem
correct.
Makes sense to me, anyone wanna give it a go? I
would but a leaking
tranny/transfer case has caused a reallocation in my
budget :(
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 26 Feb 2002 16:44:34
-0500
From: "Zobel, Kurt" <
KURT.ZOBEL@ca.com>
Subject: RE:
Team3S: Wrapping IC pipes WAS: The $50 Iowa mod.
Normal insulating
techniques are much more effective. Use ceramic where environmentals, like
heat, pre-clude the use of other materials.
Kurt
- -----Original
Message-----
From: Floyd, Jim [mailto:Jim_Floyd@maxtor.com]
Sent: Tuesday,
February 26, 2002 12:09 PM
To:
team3S@stealth-3000gt.stSubject:
RE: Team3S: Wrapping IC pipes WAS: The $50 Iowa mod.
Would ceramic
coating the pipes help reduce the heat transfer ?
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 26 Feb 2002 13:47:17
-0800
From: "Gross, Erik" <
erik.gross@intel.com>
Subject:
Team3S: MAP Sensor - Help? WAS: Pressure in the BOV line
> >
- GReddy PRofec stepper motor
> > - GReddy electronic boost gauge
sending unit
> > - GM 3-bar MAP sensor (DOA, AFAIK - @#%$!)
>
I do have the MAP sensor at the BOV line.
Good to know - maybe I'll
switch some stuff over to that line.
> > MAP sensor: 3-wires
(+5V, +0V, signal) and I verified
> > that the +5V and +0V are correct
at the harness. The
> > signal line sits at almost +0V and
doesn't move when
> > I use a hand pump to raise the pressure in the
line.
> > It's brand spankin' new, too... When it's powered
up,
> > the +5V line drops to 1.8V, though - don't know why
>
> - must be a big current drain somewhere.
> I do have some of
these MAP sensors here. What type
> did you use ? What lines did you use
for +5V and
> Ground ? Using the orange wire of the MF2 is good
>
for 5V.
I'm using a GM 3-bar MAP sensor (P/N 16040749). The
terminals (as I read on
the internet - syty.org) are A=+5V, B=signal, and
C=+0V. That's how I have
it connected. +5V comes from the Orange
wire from the ERL MF2 controller,
+0V comes from the White wire from the MF2
controller, and the blue wire for
the MF2 controller is connected to B
(signal) on the MAP sensor. No worky.
> The 3 bar map sensor has
a full output voltage of 4.92 volts,
> in turn cover a boost range
of 3bars. Alternatively, each bar
> represents 1.64 volts. The boost range
1.6bar - 2.2 bar
> (absolute) is same as 2.6v to 3.6v output of the MAP
sensor.
Yeah, that's what I figured - thanks for the info. I'm
wondering if the
1.7-1.8V(analog volt-meter, guessing) I was seeing on the
+5V line when the
harness was connected was actually the correct output for
ambient pressure
(14.7psi). I guess it's possible that the sensor is
supposed to have
A=signal and B=+5V, but I'm nervous about switching the
wires and frying it.
The MF2 manual says that the orange wire may be used to
provide +5V to a MAP
sensor, so I ass-u-me that the current requirements of
the GM MAP sensor are
not so high that the MF2 cannot keep the voltage at +5V
on the orange wire.
Other than a broken sensor, I'm grasping at straws
here...
- --Erik
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 26 Feb 2002 14:00:14
-0800
From: "fastmax" <
fastmax@cox.net>
Subject: Re: Team3S:
Wrapping IC pipes WAS: The $50 Iowa mod.
The folks that are trying
to get the last erg out of their setup are canidates
for those experiments
---- The coatings people want you to coat your
turbine housing and headers
to hold heat ---- it helps in underhood temps
and keeps exhaust gas velocity
high. As for 'bang for the buck' it's probably
not high on the list. I don't
think heat transfer along the shaft is a big issue
as the turbos are water
cooled and oil cooled to some
extent.
Jim
berry
============================================
- ----- Original
Message -----
From: "Furman, Russell" <
RFurman2@MassMutual.com>
To:
"'Team 3S'" <
Team3S@stealth-3000gt.st>
>
I wonder if coating the turbine wheel (not compressor) would help reduce
lag
> and heat transfer along the shaft to the comp wheel?
>
Also coating the exh manifolds and turbine housing should help drop
under
> hood temps.
>
> > Coatings can be applied to cause
the pipes to shed or retain heat --- at
> > least
> >
according to Swain coatings. Coating the pipes to shed heat before the
I/C
> > would seem correct.
>
> Makes sense to
me, anyone wanna give it a go? I would but a leaking
>
tranny/transfer case has caused a reallocation in my budget :(
***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 26 Feb 2002 14:02:53
-0800
From: "Geddes, Brian J" <
brian.j.geddes@intel.com>
Subject:
Team3S: Bent wheel repair
Where does one go to have a bent wheel
repaired? Is such a thing possible?
Is it something that I have to send
my wheel away for, or is it a job some
local shop can do?
On a related
note, anybody wanna sell me a stock 5-spoke 17" chrome VR-4
rim?
:)
Thanks,
- - Brian
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 26 Feb 2002 17:14:03
-0500
From: "bdtrent" <
bdtrent@netzero.net>
Subject:
Team3S: Rear Strut Tower Bar
Does anybody have any info/pics on the
Roadrace rear strut tower bar? I
went to the website, but there was no
info on one for our cars.
Regards,
DaveT/92TT
***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 26 Feb 2002 17:31:08
-0500
From: "Eric" <
griz600cc@home.com>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: Idle Problem
Have you noticed your battery gauge? Has it jumped
up and down when the RPMs
idle up at 2000? I had a similar problem which also
caused my driver window
not to always open or close. It magically
disappeared.
- ----- Original Message -----
From: "Jay Stump" <
jstump@erols.com>
To: <
Team3S@stealth-3000gt.st>
Sent:
Tuesday, February 26, 2002 1:05 PM
Subject: Team3S: Idle Problem
>
The car revs sporatically from 1100 to 1600 until the car comes to a
>
stop then it revs to 2000 RPM,. Any Ideas what the problem
is????
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 26 Feb 2002 17:37:07
-0500
From: Jay Stump <
jstump@erols.com>
Subject: Re: Team3S:
Idle Problem
The idle problem does not occur all the time, it comes and
goes
Where can I get an Idle speed controller?
Eric wrote:
>
Have you noticed your battery gauge? Has it jumped up and down when the
RPMs
> idle up at 2000? I had a similar problem which also caused my
driver window
> not to always open or close. It magically
disappeared.
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Jay Stump"
<
jstump@erols.com>
> To:
<
Team3S@stealth-3000gt.st>
>
Sent: Tuesday, February 26, 2002 1:05 PM
> Subject: Team3S: Idle
Problem
>
> > The car revs sporatically from 1100 to 1600 until
the car comes to a
> > stop then it revs to 2000 RPM,. Any Ideas
what the problem is????
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 26 Feb 2002 15:21:47
-0800
From: "fastmax" <
fastmax@cox.net>
Subject: Re: Team3S:
Rear Strut Tower Bar
I have the strut bar and some pictures ---- I was
told he doesn't make them
any more. You could call and ask !!!
I have
some pictures if you still
care.
Jim
Berry
===================================================
- -----
Original Message -----
From: "bdtrent" <
bdtrent@netzero.net>
To: "Team 3S"
<
team3s@stealth-3000gt.st>
Sent:
Tuesday, February 26, 2002 2:14 PM
Subject: Team3S: Rear Strut Tower
Bar
> Does anybody have any info/pics on the Roadrace rear strut tower
bar? I
> went to the website, but there was no info on one for our
cars.
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 26 Feb 2002 18:27:21
-0500
From: "Zobel, Kurt" <
KURT.ZOBEL@ca.com>
Subject: RE:
Team3S: Knock (or something like that)
What maintenance have you done /
not done lately?
(And yes, you are Killing the motor by lugging it that
much.)
Check fuel filter and pump if you haven't for awhile.
Check
plug wires, and reset any loose connections.
Check other ignition wires that
may be loose or intermittently shorting(touching) something.
Any
possibility of water in the gas? Throw some injector cleaner in, it
may help clean things up a little.
How long, how frequent is the
behavior?
Kurt
- -----Original Message-----
From: Willis,
Charles E. [mailto:cewillis@TexasChildrensHospital.org]
Sent: Tuesday,
February 26, 2002 12:55 PM
To:
'daedel@mac.com'; Furman, Russell
Cc:
team3s@team3s.comSubject: RE: Team3S:
Knock (or something like that)
I bet you are a lot below 3000rpm in 5th
gear at 30 mph, otherwise your
clutch is only partially engaged!
Now
if it happens occassionally at higher speeds in 3rd gear
during
accelleration, maybe it is a bad throttle position sensor, although
this
usually generates a computer code and a check engine light. Bad
TPS does
that for any gear at the same approximate location of the throttle,
so
different rpms.
Is that closer to what you are
describing?
Chuck Willis
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 26 Feb 2002 17:52:26
-0600
From: "Todd D.Shelton" <
tds@brightok.net>
Subject: Re: Team3S:
Idle Problem
- -----Original Message-----
From: Jay Stump <
jstump@erols.com>
To: Eric <
griz600cc@home.com>; Team 3S <
Team3S@stealth-3000gt.st>
Date:
Tuesday, February 26, 2002 4:37 PM
Subject: Re: Team3S: Idle
Problem
>The idle problem does not occur all the time, it comes and
goes
>Where can I get an Idle speed controller?
I've got an ISC for
sale at abouot 1/3 of factory price.
It has about 29K on it and works
fine. I replaced it
when I was once chasing a problem which turned
out
to be something entirely different ....
- - tds
http://www.brightok.net/~tds***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 26 Feb 2002 17:28:44
-0800
From: "dakken" <
dougusmagnus@attbi.com>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Idle Problem
> > The car revs sporatically from 1100 to
1600 until the car comes to a
> > stop then it revs to 2000 RPM,.
Any Ideas what the problem is????
There are a number of things that can
cause a high idle. Is your air
conditioner on? Are your engine
cooling fans running? Is your engine cold?
Is your alternator trying to
charge your battery? Could your throttle cable
be sticking
somewhere? Is your engine coolant temperature sensor
working
properly?
In general there is something telling your ECU that
it needs a higher idle.
Typically a vacuum leak will cause your engine to
idle rough and lowers your
idle speed. Look for something that is
either draining electricity or is
idling up your engine for some other reason
such as a bad temperature
reading. Look at the easy stuff first before
doing any of the hard.
Doug
92 Stealth RT TT
***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 26 Feb 2002 20:42:49
-0500
From: "Mike Frey" <
mike21b@ptd.net>
Subject: Team3S: Fog
Light bulb replacement
This question has probably been answered more than
once, but I'm fairly new
to the list....
How do you get at them there
things?
Where to buy replacement bulbs (aside from dealer)?
Alternative
bulbs?
Mike
92 RT/TT
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 26 Feb 2002 17:43:01
-0800
From: "P N Sankarshanan" <
yoss@aracnet.com>
Subject: Team3S: Rear
Differential - Any recalls?
Folks:
The rear
differential has sprung a leak. This is the second time it's
happened
in five years. I'd like to find out if there are any recalls w.r.t
the
differential (seals, parts, etc.) Is there a recall/TSB database that
I
can query to get this information? I'm also going to call the local
dealer,
but I'm not sure if they would report TSBs...
Thanks!
-
-sankar
'97 VR4
*** Info:
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***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 26 Feb 2002 18:03:54
-0800
From: "P N Sankarshanan" <
yoss@aracnet.com>
Subject: Re: Team3S:
Fog Light bulb replacement
This is one of the easiest things to do.
Even I was able to figure it out! I
just replaced mine recently.
The replacement bulbs are H3-55W (Type H3, with
55watt rating. They run
about $5.50 at NAPA.)
All you need is a philips-head screwdriver.
This is what you do:
1. Remove the fog light cover by reaching behind and
around the lamp from the
outside, and pop out the tab. You may want to
be a little careful with this
step, or you will end up breaking the
tab. I can show you want a broken tab
looks like :-)
2. This will
reveal two black (ok, they were black in my black car)
philips-head
screws. Remove the screws to open the outer cover.
3. The lamp assembly
contains four screws. You want to remove the two outer
screws that are
diagonally aligned from each other.
4. Gently pull the assembly out.
5.
Remove the metal clip in the back to release the bulb from the lamp.
6.
Gently yank the wire at the black jacket (this is the end of the wire that
is
away from the bulb) to completely remove the bulb.
7. Replace new bulb,
making sure you don't touch the glass part of the bulb
with your fingers (or
get any grease/oil/dust on it.)
8. Back track to assemble it all
together.
- ----- Original Message -----
From: "Mike Frey" <
mike21b@ptd.net>
To: "team3S" <
team3S@stealth-3000gt.st>
Sent:
Tuesday, February 26, 2002 5:42 PM
Subject: Team3S: Fog Light bulb
replacement
> This question has probably been answered more than once,
but I'm fairly new
> to the list....
>
> How do you get at
them there things?
> Where to buy replacement bulbs (aside from
dealer)?
> Alternative bulbs?
>
> Mike
> 92
RT/TT
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 26 Feb 2002 18:06:07
-0800
From: "P N Sankarshanan" <
yoss@aracnet.com>
Subject: Re: Team3S:
Fog Light bulb replacement
Ofcourse, this is for a '97 model car.
YMMV for early generation car; sorry
didn't notice yours was a 1st
gen...
- ----- Original Message -----
From: "P N Sankarshanan" <
yoss@aracnet.com>
To: "Mike Frey"
<
mike21b@ptd.net>
Cc: "3kgt"
<
Team3S@stealth-3000gt.st>
Sent:
Tuesday, February 26, 2002 6:03 PM
Subject: Re: Team3S: Fog Light bulb
replacement
> This is one of the easiest things to do. Even I
was able to figure it out!
I
> just replaced mine recently. The
replacement bulbs are H3-55W (Type H3, with
> 55watt rating. They
run about $5.50 at NAPA.)
>
> All you need is a philips-head
screwdriver. This is what you do:
>
> 1. Remove the fog light
cover by reaching behind and around the lamp from the
> outside, and pop
out the tab. You may want to be a little careful with this
> step,
or you will end up breaking the tab. I can show you want a broken
tab
> looks like :-)
> 2. This will reveal two black (ok, they were
black in my black car)
> philips-head screws. Remove the screws to
open the outer cover.
> 3. The lamp assembly contains four screws.
You want to remove the two outer
> screws that are diagonally aligned from
each other.
> 4. Gently pull the assembly out.
> 5. Remove the metal
clip in the back to release the bulb from the lamp.
> 6. Gently yank the
wire at the black jacket (this is the end of the wire that
> is away from
the bulb) to completely remove the bulb.
> 7. Replace new bulb, making
sure you don't touch the glass part of the bulb
> with your fingers (or
get any grease/oil/dust on it.)
> 8. Back track to assemble it all
together.
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Mike Frey"
<
mike21b@ptd.net>
> To:
"team3S" <
team3S@stealth-3000gt.st>
>
Sent: Tuesday, February 26, 2002 5:42 PM
> Subject: Team3S: Fog Light bulb
replacement
>
>
> > This question has probably been
answered more than once, but I'm fairly new
> > to the list....
>
>
> > How do you get at them there things?
> > Where to buy
replacement bulbs (aside from dealer)?
> > Alternative bulbs?
>
>
> > Mike
> > 92 RT/TT
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
End of Team3S: 3000GT &
Stealth V1
#766
***************************************