Team3S: 3000GT & Stealth   Monday, February 25 2002   Volume 01 : Number 764




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Date: Sun, 24 Feb 2002 19:56:52 -0600
From: "cody" <overclck@satx.rr.com>
Subject: RE: Team3S: Yet another wheel fitment question

I was told they wouldn't....

- -COdy

- -----Original Message-----
From: owner-team3s@team3s.com [mailto:owner-team3s@team3s.com] On Behalf
Of Jeff VanOrsdal
Sent: Sunday, February 24, 2002 10:54 AM
To: Team3s Tech List
Subject: Team3S: Yet another wheel fitment question

I have checked the archive and found nothing regarding this wheel.  So
I'll
ask here.  Does anyone know if the 18x8 40mm offset Konig Vilian will
fit a
1st gen TT?  A friend of mine has found a set for a great deal but
hasn't
been able to find out if they'll fit his car.  Thanks.

Jeff V.
1991 Stealth ESX Twin Turbo (currently DOA)
jeffv@1nce.com

***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***

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Date: Sun, 24 Feb 2002 21:03:28 -0600
From: "cody" <overclck@satx.rr.com>
Subject: RE: Team3S: New bars: Handling too good?

It almost seems like this would be optimum if driven correctly, more
like a RWD car than a AWD car...

- -Cody

- -----Original Message-----
From: owner-team3s@team3s.com [mailto:owner-team3s@team3s.com] On Behalf
Of Floyd, Jim
Sent: Sunday, February 24, 2002 12:12 PM
To: Team 3S
Subject: RE: Team3S: New bars: Handling too good?

Eric,

When I had only the rear strut and anti-sway bar the car really
over
steered - it was too twitchy - dangerous.

- -----Original Message-----
From: Eric [mailto:griz600cc@home.com]
Sent: Saturday, February 23, 2002 9:19 PM
To: Team 3S
Subject: Re: Team3S: New bars: Handling too good?

How much of a factor is it with only a new rear sway bar vs. the car
with
new front and rear sway bars?

Eric
'93 Stealth ES
New struts/shocks
Eibachi lowering springs
Cusco rear sway bar
- ----- Original Message -----
From: <merritt@cedar-rapids.net>
To: <Team3S@stealth-3000gt.st>; <team3s@team3s.com>
Sent: Saturday, February 23, 2002 10:19 PM
Subject: Team3S: New bars: Handling too good?

> Tried out the new front and rear sway bars real good, today. Sunny and
bright, and the 100 mph sweepers beckoned. She really sticks in there,
even
at 100+, with no trace of over or understeer. Dead neutral, flat as a
pancake, and solid as a rock. I am nowhere near the car's cornering
limit,
but I am not likely to try to find the limit on public roads and street
tires. (If they catch me driving at 100 mph in Iowa, they throw me under
the
jail.)
>
> One lil ol problem: The response to steering input is now
instantaneous.
The car tends to be a little darty, therefore, as I am trying to
re-learn
the steering. All I have to do now is just THINK about changing lanes
and
it's over there. Might be a little too fast, because it's tough to make
tiny
corrections--such as edging away from the center line to stay centered
in
the lane.
>
> We have the front bar tightened down to the limit on the adjuster.
Whaddaya think -- loosen it up a little? Or look elsewhere? Adjust
alignment
maybe? How do you slow down the steering just a smidge?
>
> Rich/slow old poop
> 94 VR4 w/front and rear sway bars, Eibachs, Ground Control, lowered to
the
max, and camber plates. Alignment set to -2.5 deg camber, +0.5 toe,
maximum
castor, front/ -1 deg camber, 0 toe  rear.

***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***

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Date: Sun, 24 Feb 2002 19:25:45 -0700
From: "Mike & Cathy" <micajoco@theofficenet.com>
Subject: Team3S: bent valves

Just found out I need to do a valve job. Bent valves when timinig belt went.
What damage could the valves have done to the top of the pistons if any?
What am I looking at in cost to have the heads rebuilt? Is there anything I
should have done to improve performance as long as the heads have to come
off any how? Just gutted precats and installed a test pipe .

Mike S 92 r/t tt Wash. St.

***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***

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Date: Sun, 24 Feb 2002 22:35:51 -0600
From: "Jannusch, Matt" <mjannusch@marketwatch.com>
Subject: RE: Team3S: bent valves

> Just found out I need to do a valve job. Bent valves when
> timinig belt went. What damage could the valves have done
> to the top of the pistons if any? What am I looking at in
> cost to have the heads rebuilt? Is there anything I should
> have done to improve performance as long as the heads have
> to come off any how? Just gutted precats and installed a
> test pipe .

The valves can take divots out of the piston faces.  :-(

The only way to find out is when you take the heads off, which you'll need
to do anyway.  Costs for head rebuild will depend a lot on how many valves
are bent, and whether or not there is any other damage.  I'd estimate no
less than $200 per head for the actual head work itself.

I haven't really seen anyone get major power increases with head work, but
you could port the heads.  They seem to flow pretty well as is though.  Head
porting (when done right) is usually pretty spendy.  Resist the urge to do a
homemade porting job on the heads.  It is difficult to tell what is right
without a flow bench.

- -Matt
'95 3000GT Spyder VR4

***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***

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Date: Sun, 24 Feb 2002 20:49:32 -0800 (PST)
From: John Christian <jczoom_619@yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: Team3S: bent valves

Hi Mike&Cathy,

You may want to port match the intake and exhaust
channels.  You'll need a die grinder and burrs.  It
took me about 8 hours to do the heads and the
manifolds.  Mine doesn't look as pretty as Roger's,
but I only spent time not $$$$.

I don't have pics posted, but you can see what Roger
had done at:
http://www.rtec.ch/upgrade_project.html

Be of good cheer,
John

- --- Mike & Cathy <micajoco@theofficenet.com> wrote:
> Just found out I need to do a valve job. Bent valves
> when timinig belt went.
> What damage could the valves have done to the top of
> the pistons if any?
> What am I looking at in cost to have the heads
> rebuilt? Is there anything I
> should have done to improve performance as long as
> the heads have to come
> off any how? Just gutted precats and installed a
> test pipe .
>
> Mike S 92 r/t tt Wash. St.

=====
Please respond to jczoom@iname.com
'93 TT with Porsche brakes and Supra TT rotors
12.4@109MPH  5/97 almost stock
http://www.geocities.com/motorcity/flats/4538

***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***

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Date: Sun, 24 Feb 2002 22:15:57 -0800 (PST)
From: John Christian <jczoom_619@yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: Team3S: Turbo oil feed line

Hi,

I put on 13Gs when I blew the rear turbo.  I didn't
have to take off the AC.  The manual tells you to take
off a whole bunch which is NOT necessary.  I did
remove the passenger fan which made the front turbo
swap much EASIER.  Now I would just remove the WHOLE
radiator. 

Getting the oil and water lines reconnected was a real
PIA.  I bought new oil lines, but never put them on as
the oringinal ones were fine AND changing them would
have been a nightmare.

The rear turbo is the real BBuster.  Bandaids and
hydrogenPeroxide are required.

Be of good cheer,
John

- --- menalteed <menalteed@yahoo.com> wrote:
> My front turbo is off, I'm waiting for gaskets in
> the
> mail and now The dreaded oil feed line is next on my
> task list. 92 RT TT Stealth. The question is this,
> It
> looks like a lot of work! but do I realy need a
> tensioner pully  socket wrench, seems like just
> puting
> the Air conditioner compressor back on the bracket
> and
> puting the belt on and tight is good enough, by
> golly
> the the book range is 12lbs difference and  if I get
> it back aprox to what I found it at I should be good
> enough. Now remember I want to get this back on the
> road without going further in the hole. My new
> turbos
> are 13g's.

=====
Please respond to jczoom@iname.com
'93 TT with Porsche brakes and Supra TT rotors
12.4@109MPH  5/97 almost stock
http://www.geocities.com/motorcity/flats/4538

***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 24 Feb 2002 22:15:57 -0800 (PST)
From: John Christian <jczoom_619@yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: Team3S: Turbo oil feed line

Hi,

I put on 13Gs when I blew the rear turbo.  I didn't
have to take off the AC.  The manual tells you to take
off a whole bunch which is NOT necessary.  I did
remove the passenger fan which made the front turbo
swap much EASIER.  Now I would just remove the WHOLE
radiator. 

Getting the oil and water lines reconnected was a real
PIA.  I bought new oil lines, but never put them on as
the oringinal ones were fine AND changing them would
have been a nightmare.

The rear turbo is the real BBuster.  Bandaids and
hydrogenPeroxide are required.

Be of good cheer,
John

- --- menalteed <menalteed@yahoo.com> wrote:
> My front turbo is off, I'm waiting for gaskets in the
> mail and now The dreaded oil feed line is next on my
> task list. 92 RT TT Stealth. The question is this,
> It looks like a lot of work! but do I realy need a
> tensioner pully  socket wrench, seems like just
> puting the Air conditioner compressor back on the bracket
> and puting the belt on and tight is good enough, by
> golly the the book range is 12lbs difference and  if I get
> it back aprox to what I found it at I should be good
> enough. Now remember I want to get this back on the
> road without going further in the hole. My new turbos
> are 13g's.

=====
Please respond to jczoom@iname.com
'93 TT with Porsche brakes and Supra TT rotors
12.4@109MPH  5/97 almost stock
http://www.geocities.com/motorcity/flats/4538

***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***

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Date: Mon, 25 Feb 2002 14:00:52 +0100
From: Jim Matthews <jim@the-matthews.com>
Subject: Re: Team3S: 91 v 94

>Not faster. 
>It seems to me that my stock engined 94 is every bit as fast -- if not
faster -- than her boost controlled car.

Didn't we discuss this after one of your track reports last year? 
Before you install the boost controller, connect a boost gauge to see
what pressures you're running now.  My guess is that you'll see numbers
higher than stock.  If she sets her boost controller to the pressures
you're running, her car should make the same power (same engine!).  If
her controller is currently set to the max safe boost (commonly
accepted as 1 bar for a mostly stock engine), but yours is making more
power, then you can only hope the upgraded intercoolers have minimized
detonation...

- - --
Jim Matthews - Munich, Germany (currently on vacation in the States!)
mailto:jim@the-matthews.com (64 Kbps ISDN)
http://www.the-matthews.com

*** 3000GT-Stealth International (3Si) Member #0030 ***
      http://www.the-matthews.com/stealth.html
Jet Black '94 Dodge Stealth R/T Twin-Turbo AWD AWS 6-spd
Adjustable Active Suspension, Adjustable Exhaust System
K&N FIPK, A'PEXi Super AVC-R v.1 (1.0 bar @ 64% BADC)
A'PEXi Turbo Timer (30 sec), Blitz Super Blow-Off Valve
Magnecore spark plug wires, Optima Red Top 830 Battery
Redline synth fluids (trans= MT-90, xfer & diff= SPHvy)
Cryoed rotors, R4S pads, braided lines, red calipers
Michelin Pilot XGT-Z4 245/45ZR17, Top Speed: 171 mph
G-Tech Pro: 0-60 4.79 sec, 1/4 13.16 sec @ 113.9 mph
1 Feb 99 Dyno Session: 367 SAE HP, 354 lb-ft torque

***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***

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Date: Mon, 25 Feb 2002 08:17:55 -0600
From: "merritt@cedar-rapids.net" <merritt@cedar-rapids.net>
Subject: Re: Team3S: 91 v 94

At 02:00 PM 2/25/02 +0100, you wrote:
>>Not faster. 
>>It seems to me that my stock engined 94 is every bit as fast -- if not
>faster -- than her boost controlled car.
>
>Didn't we discuss this after one of your track reports last year? 
>Before you install the boost controller, connect a boost gauge to see
>what pressures you're running now.

I did. I'm running 10-12 psi.
Rich

***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***

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Date: Mon, 25 Feb 2002 08:52:45 -0600
From: "Willis, Charles E." <cewillis@TexasChildrensHospital.org>
Subject: RE: Team3S: 91 v 94

In the 5 speed I used 2nd gear for slow turns like the carousel at Texas
World Speedway and Turn 14/15 at Heartland Park.  In the 6 speed I am using
3rd gear.  Since the rpms are higher at the same speed and same gear, I am
getting higher boost in the six speed, so I can afford to stay in a higher
gear.  I've just started trying to upshift into 4th for some sweepers with
the six speed, and I think that might have been inappropriate for the five
speed.

Rich uses the shifter a lot more than I do.

Chuck
> -----Original Message-----
> From: merritt@cedar-rapids.net [SMTP:merritt@cedar-rapids.net]
> Sent: Sunday, February 24, 2002 2:55 PM
> To: Team3S@stealth-3000gt.st; team3s@team3s.com
> Subject: Team3S: 91 v 94
>
> Love the five speed.
> I think 2nd gear in a 5 speed would be more useful for open tracking, cuz
> it's much longer than 2nd in the six speed. I can think of several corners
> where I wish I had such a gear. It also helps explain why the 1st gens
> don't have overheating problems, because with the longer 2nd gear the car
> is not into the turbos as much coming out of slower turns. Something to
> consider for folks who are looking for a car in which to go open tracking.
> (Chuck: you have both. What do you think about 5 spd v 6 spd?)

***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***

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Date: Mon, 25 Feb 2002 08:52:45 -0600
From: "Willis, Charles E." <cewillis@TexasChildrensHospital.org>
Subject: RE: Team3S: 91 v 94

In the 5 speed I used 2nd gear for slow turns like the carousel at Texas
World Speedway and Turn 14/15 at Heartland Park.  In the 6 speed I am using
3rd gear.  Since the rpms are higher at the same speed and same gear, I am
getting higher boost in the six speed, so I can afford to stay in a higher
gear.  I've just started trying to upshift into 4th for some sweepers with
the six speed, and I think that might have been inappropriate for the five
speed.

Rich uses the shifter a lot more than I do.

Chuck
> -----Original Message-----
> From: merritt@cedar-rapids.net [SMTP:merritt@cedar-rapids.net]
> Sent: Sunday, February 24, 2002 2:55 PM
> To: Team3S@stealth-3000gt.st; team3s@team3s.com
> Subject: Team3S: 91 v 94
>
> Love the five speed.
> I think 2nd gear in a 5 speed would be more useful for open tracking, cuz
> it's much longer than 2nd in the six speed. I can think of several corners
> where I wish I had such a gear. It also helps explain why the 1st gens
> don't have overheating problems, because with the longer 2nd gear the car
> is not into the turbos as much coming out of slower turns. Something to
> consider for folks who are looking for a car in which to go open tracking.
> (Chuck: you have both. What do you think about 5 spd v 6 spd?)

***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 25 Feb 2002 09:08:46 -0800 (PST)
From: menalteed <menalteed@yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: Team3S: Turbo oil feed line

The progress on my turbo swap, I'm doing it a little
at a time. My new 13G.s are very shinny siting here on
the floor wrapped for protection in plastic. So far I
have the front turbo off, and yesterday started with
the rear turbo. The rear so far has the precasts or
what ever it is that holds the O2 gismo off, and the
top nut from the turbo housing. I crawled under to get
the
bottom two bolts or nuts off the turbo but they
haven't broken lose so far, today getting a bigger
cheater bar to get them off,  if the weather holds.
I'm doing this outside in my driveway and weather
plays a factor. I still haven't made up my mind on
replacing the oil feed lines but UPS says my gaskets
won't be here for another five days so I have time if
I do go ahead and change them. I have ordered all new
oil feed lines. I can't tell if the ones on the car
are good or not just by looking without taking them
off. I want to thank this club and everyone who has
posted on this turbo swap, I couldn't have made it
this far without you. This has
been a job at the limit of my tools, and skill but
haven't ran into any major problems yet. I feel very
good about the money I'm saving doing this myself
rather then my local dealer who wanted over four
thousand dollars to do this job, and that was for
stock turbos. I have about fourteen hundred that I
paid for the turbos and about two hundred in tools and
other parts gaskets and such. I could have had the old
turbos rebuilt for far cheaper but went  with new
upgrades 13G. I didn't want to go bigger as most of my
use of the car is street driving and I'm not planing
on racing it although I'm also installing the K&N air
filter
system. I wish I understood a little more about the
BOV and several other things as it seems like a good
time for doing some little "not to difficult" HP
upgrades along with the new shinny turbos. For those
of you who have been through this turbo madness my
hats off to you, any tips are always welcome. I should
be back up and running my Pearl white paid for 92 RT
TT with the
nice factory sunroof within a few weeks if not days.
People in Seattle can look for it, I drive around a
lot in the North East part of town and hit Magnesium
Park at least once a day, it is very close. Thanks
again.

Peter

***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 25 Feb 2002 10:18:24 -0800
From: "Gross, Erik" <erik.gross@intel.com>
Subject: RE: Team3S: New bars: Handling too good?

> > From: Floyd, Jim
> > When I had only the rear strut and anti-sway bar
> > the car really over steered - it was too twitchy -
> > dangerous.

> From: cody
>
> It almost seems like this would be optimum if driven
> correctly, more like a RWD ca

***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 25 Feb 2002 13:40:06 -0500
From: "Zobel, Kurt" <KURT.ZOBEL@ca.com>
Subject: RE: Team3S: BAFMOC

Personally, I would not relocate the oil cooler, because the water cooling is more important and effective. You could just double up with two stock oil coolers. Try not to overlap the frontal areas. That would maximize the cooling area, add a little reserve to oil supply, and be easy to replumb. Plumb with the hot inlet into the rear cooler, then its output to the forward cooler.

PS. Call me the doublemint freak, I am working on dual TB intake and dual caliper brakes for my NA. (Not worrying about oil cooler yet, as I don't have any.)

Other notes:
The aluminum finned oil filter covers should work well to reduce heat.
The propped hood and remove rear weather seal on hood works well for me, gets at least 10deg cooling.
Flush radiator, use Water wetter is something I will do this year, and every two years.
Idea not tested, use the steel braided water hose covers, they should help cool as well as looking 'cool'.
Use insulated tape or dryer duct around all intake piping before turbos.
Ensure cool air intake, from front of grill or hood scoop or at least punch/drill holes through air intake area to wheel well.

Go for it!
Kurt/Skyrider 

- -----Original Message-----
From: merritt@cedar-rapids.net [mailto:merritt@cedar-rapids.net]
Sent: Friday, February 22, 2002 12:21 PM
To: Floyd, Jim; team3s@team3s.com
Subject: RE: Team3S: BAFMOC

At 01:08 PM 2/22/02 -0700, Floyd, Jim wrote:
>Merrit,
>
> Do you have a big ass oil cooler in mind ?
>
The boys at Denny's Muffler suggested one off a Dodge truck -- they said it was about 18 x 6 in., but couldn't remember the year or model. I suspect it would be easy enough to find one the correct size somewhere.

Rich

***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 25 Feb 2002 13:42:06 -0500
From: "Zobel, Kurt" <KURT.ZOBEL@ca.com>
Subject: RE: Team3S: BAFMOC

I'll take a dozen! kdz

- -----Original Message-----
From: merritt@cedar-rapids.net [mailto:merritt@cedar-rapids.net]
Sent: Friday, February 22, 2002 12:38 PM
To: Willis, Charles E.; 'Floyd, Jim'; team3s@team3s.com
Subject: RE: Team3S: BAFMOC

At 02:12 PM 2/22/02 -0600, Willis, Charles E. wrote:
>I hope somebody will make some temperature measurements.  I'm curious about
>the effects of dumping the heat from the oil cooler into the air flowing
>into the radiator.  Seems like it would make the temperature difference
>across the radiator lower, meaning less heat transfer out of the radiator.
>
What I was thinking was to build a chin spoiler out of a piece of 1/4 in. aluminum. It would span across under the front fenders and intercoolers, and bolt to the cross member in front of the radiator (you have to remove the bumper underpan to see whereof I speak). It would also stick out about 4 in. in front of the bumper, and provide downforce.

Now here's where it gets neat.

Immediately under the radiator, I'd cut a big slot and install a stiff rubber/vinyl air dam to force air up into the radiator, BEHIND THE BAFMOC!  This way, the oil cooler will get the first shot of air, but cool air will still come in from below.

It gets even neater.

The whole chin spoiler will be hinged in back so that I can drop it down about an inch in the front when I get to the track. This will open up built-in rectangular brake cooling scoops that are one inch high x 12 in. wide. Internal channeling will force the collected air back to a 3 or 4 in. round duct that leads directly to the rotors.

Now all I gotta do is build it.

Rich/slow old poop

***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 25 Feb 2002 11:12:44 -0800
From: "Gross, Erik" <erik.gross@intel.com>
Subject: RE: Team3S: New bars: Handling too good?

So apparently Outlook choked or something because it didn't send the rest of
my message.  Disregard my last post as it doesn't say anything... :-)

I was simply saying that as of installing my front strut tower brace, I have
low-speed power-oversteer that has twice caught me off-guard on the street.
Saved it both times, but  if I hadn't experienced it at auto-x and had some
clue as to what to do, I might have had an accident.  Both times on the
street, it was on a damp road accelerating through a left-hand turn, having
previously stopped at a stop-sign.  Midway through the corner at about 75%
throttle in 1st, the rear started coming around.  Not fun if you're not
expecting it.

- --Erik
'95 VR-4 with stock suspension except for F&R strut tower braces

BTW, UPS lost my sway bars last week.  BOTH of them....  in different places
between NC and WA.  $@#%@#$%#@!!!

***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 25 Feb 2002 11:37:38 -0800
From: Damon Rachell <damonr@mefas.com>
Subject: Re: Team3S: Yet another wheel fitment question

Jeff,
I've got this wheel on my 92 R/T TT.  it fits the stock calipers with
tons of clearance.  In fact, it even fits my brembos with 12.5" rotors
with no problems.  I've got to put on a 5mm spacer in order to put on my
racing wheels, which are stock 92 TT wheels.
Damon

Jeff VanOrsdal wrote:

> I have checked the archive and found nothing regarding this wheel.  So I'll
> ask here.  Does anyone know if the 18x8 40mm offset Konig Vilian will fit a
> 1st gen TT?  A friend of mine has found a set for a great deal but hasn't
> been able to find out if they'll fit his car.  Thanks.
>
> Jeff V.
> 1991 Stealth ESX Twin Turbo (currently DOA)
> jeffv@1nce.com

***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 25 Feb 2002 11:59:57 -0800 (PST)
From: Jeff Lucius <stealthman92@yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: Team3S: bent valves

Mike,

I have a new web page about our cylinder heads at the url below.

http://www.geocities.com/lutransys/jlucius7/j7-2-headinfo.htm

Flow bench measurements from two sources confirm that the stock heads
can outflow the cylinders up to to stock redline and beyond. This
does not mean that there is no room for improvement but only that
everyone but the most extreme HP crazies can leave the heads alone
and concentrate on other areas for performance improvements. If you
want to do something anyway, manifold port matching is easy, cheap,
and should have no detrimental effect if done properly.

If doing a complete rebuild, then of course use the newer lash
adjusters. If 8500 RPM performance is your goal, then consider the
valve train upgrades from sources like Dynamic racing (cams, valves,
springs, retainers). Over-sized valve guides are recommended in any
case (Mitsu offers these, see my web page above). Your machine shop
may want to change the valve/seat to a 3 angle grind also (seems to
be popular with the NA performance crowd).

Jeff Lucius, http://www.stealth316.com/

- --- Mike & Cathy <micajoco@theofficenet.com> wrote:
> Just found out I need to do a valve job. Bent valves when timinig
> belt went.
> What damage could the valves have done to the top of the pistons if
> any?
> What am I looking at in cost to have the heads rebuilt? Is there
> anything I
> should have done to improve performance as long as the heads have
> to come
> off any how? Just gutted precats and installed a test pipe .
>
> Mike S 92 r/t tt Wash. St.

***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 25 Feb 2002 16:02:30 -0700
From: "Floyd, Jim" <Jim_Floyd@maxtor.com>
Subject: RE: Team3S: boost controller

Where do you get the SX FPR ?

- -----Original Message-----
From: xwing [mailto:xwing@wi.rr.com]
Sent: Saturday, February 23, 2002 9:39 AM
To: team3s@stealth-3000gt.st
Subject: Re: Team3S: boost controller


I had the stock FPR on my VR4's with the HKS/Cosmo upgrade pump which is
essentially the same as a Supra Mk IV pump...PLUS a Kenne-Bell Boost-A-Pump
to up the voltage/output even more (it only came on under boost), and never
used anything BUT the stock FPR.  No problems...just set records.
I have an adjustable SX FPR on my 94 now that I have 2 Walbro pumps in that
car...set to stock pressure value.
Jack T.

From: "Steve Cooper"
> > If you install the Supra pump without an adjustable
> > fuel pressure regulator or an electronic fuel
> > controller (i.e. S-AFC) you will run rich at idle
> > (and probably WOT, too).

> People who try to sell new things, like adjustable FPRs tend to stretch t
> facts a bit in order to get a sale.
>Steve

***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***

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Date: Mon, 25 Feb 2002 17:56:05 -0000
From: "Sam Shelat" <sshelat@erols.com>
Subject: Re: Team3S: cylinder head efficiency

If this is true, and the fact that 15gs are more then adequate for the flow
of the heads to make power, then why do some people make more power at
15-17psi then others?  I can understand that maybe the stock heads can't do
anything with much bigger turbos except benefit from their efficiency at
higher psi levels, but to say the heads flow enough as is says that we will
never see more then about 400horse at the crank at 15psi.  I have read up on
many Grand National build ups where at 14psi, they were making upwards of
500h.p., and by 24psi almost 1000h.p..  Now, I know our stock heads flow
better then a 3.8 litre buick head stock for stock.  On the Buick, they
arrived at the larger numbers by using a replacement head with larger ports
and larger valves.  If they put those huge turbos on a stock motored car,
they would make about 300horse at 14psi.  In addition, some guys with race
ported motors have traction problems at 15psi, which tells me they are
making way more then 400h.p. at the crank.  Some clarification or discussion
on this topic may be nice.  It may not interest the track guys to make an
extra 100h.p. at the same psi they are running at now, but some of us drag
racers need to know.

Sam
- -----Original Message-----
From: Jeff Lucius <stealthman92@yahoo.com>
To: Mike & Cathy <micajoco@theofficenet.com>; team3s@stealth-3000gt.st
<team3s@stealth-3000gt.st>
Date: Monday, February 25, 2002 8:03 PM
Subject: Re: Team3S: bent valves

>Mike,
>
>I have a new web page about our cylinder heads at the url below.
>
>http://www.geocities.com/lutransys/jlucius7/j7-2-headinfo.htm
>
>Flow bench measurements from two sources confirm that the stock heads
>can outflow the cylinders up to to stock redline and beyond. This
>does not mean that there is no room for improvement but only that
>everyone but the most extreme HP crazies can leave the heads alone
>and concentrate on other areas for performance improvements. If you
>want to do something anyway, manifold port matching is easy, cheap,
>and should have no detrimental effect if done properly.
>
>If doing a complete rebuild, then of course use the newer lash
>adjusters. If 8500 RPM performance is your goal, then consider the
>valve train upgrades from sources like Dynamic racing (cams, valves,
>springs, retainers). Over-sized valve guides are recommended in any
>case (Mitsu offers these, see my web page above). Your machine shop
>may want to change the valve/seat to a 3 angle grind also (seems to
>be popular with the NA performance crowd).
>
>Jeff Lucius, http://www.stealth316.com/
>
>--- Mike & Cathy <micajoco@theofficenet.com> wrote:
>> Just found out I need to do a valve job. Bent valves when timinig
>> belt went.
>> What damage could the valves have done to the top of the pistons if
>> any?
>> What am I looking at in cost to have the heads rebuilt? Is there
>> anything I
>> should have done to improve performance as long as the heads have
>> to come
>> off any how? Just gutted precats and installed a test pipe .
>>
>> Mike S 92 r/t tt Wash. St.

***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***

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Date: Mon, 25 Feb 2002 15:19:18 -0800 (PST)
From: menalteed <menalteed@yahoo.com>
Subject: Team3S: TEAM 3S Turbo swap guide

I just removed my rear turbo and have found some steps
in the 3S guide not necessary. First I didn't remove
the intake Plenum, that saves a bunch of time. I found
that I was able to remove the rear turbo with the
waste gate air house still on but disconected from the
top side. I also had no problem removing the turbo
with the oil return pipe still conected, a much
improved method over trying to disconect while in the
engine area, same for the front.I also didn't bother
removing the O2 sensor front or rear, although I did
disconect the electric plug to get more play in the
rear.
The Stealth manual recomends removing the battery tray
and washer bottle but that is not going to help at
all, it has nothing to do with the rear turbo. The
book also shows that you should remove the EGR valve,
nope don't bother it adds nothing to removing the rear
turbo. The Turbo came right out with me standing at
the fender on the drivers side. Now one major problem
I didn't catch and I do have some question about this,
the air intake hose "A" when I diconected it  I didn't
think it would be full of oil but it was and made a
mess on my driveway, it had about a 1/4 to 1/2 a quart
of oil in it and I can't but be worried about where
that oil came from. There was oil in all the pipes
leaving the turbo but I didn't expect oil in the hose
leading into the turbo, the manifold exhust was dry.
The turbo was full of oil. Is there anyway oil can get
into the intake Hose "A" other then maybe backing up
from the turbo. Is there anything down towards the air
filter that could be a problem with throwing oil into
the intake air lines. I see several smaler hoses
conecting into the air hose but don't have any idea if
they could be the sourse of oil, any help!

Peter

***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 25 Feb 2002 15:58:51 -0800
From: "Gross, Erik" <erik.gross@intel.com>
Subject: RE: Team3S: TEAM 3S Turbo swap guide

Thanks for the information on removing the rear turbo - I've gotta do that
eventually since I want an EGT probe back there.

As far as air in the intake hose to the rear turbo (I don't remember if
that's Hose A, but since you've been talking about the rear turbo...), the
valve cover breather hose dumps into the "T" intake pipe (from MAS and
splits to the two turbos) on the side that goes toward the rear turbo.  My
rear turbo inlet hose has a light coating of oil inside, I guess due to
oil/vapors being sucked out of the rear valve cover.  Yours could have come
from there.

As far as oil in the inlet hose and/or turbo, I'd suspect the breather hose
or the turbo itself.  If that's from the breather hose, that sounds like a
LOT of oil and probably something to be concerned about.  Perhaps you have
some blow-by that's increasing your crankcase pressure and causing oil to
spew out into the inlet hose.  

I now have a catch can on that breather hose on my VR-4 specifically to
address this problem of oil/fumes coming from the valve cover into the inlet
hose.

- --Erik

***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 25 Feb 2002 19:05:24 -0500
From: "Eric" <griz600cc@home.com>
Subject: Re: Team3S: New bars: Handling too good?

Sorry almost forgot. Here is the price run down. At least what I paid for
it:

Struts (2): $210.00
Shcoks (2): $150.00
Eibach Springs (1): $270.00
Cusco Rear Strut Bar (1): $125
Addco Front Sway Bar (1): $190
Addco Rear Sway Bar (1): $190
Figure about $20 for shipping, it will put you at about $1155.
- ----- Original Message -----
From: "Dustin Lenz" <dustin_lenz@hotmail.com>
To: <griz600cc@home.com>
Sent: Monday, February 25, 2002 11:35 AM
Subject: Re: Team3S: New bars: Handling too good?


> Couple questions, why did you go with new struts/shocks and Eibach
lowering
> springs instead of the tein setup? If cost, what did all that run you?  I
> want my car lower plus am hearing thumping noises over bumps, thus
> considering new parts.
>
> Thanks in advance for your time,
> -Dustin/97VR4
>
>
> >From: "Eric" <griz600cc@home.com>
> >To: "Team 3S" <Team3S@stealth-3000gt.st>
> >Subject: Re: Team3S: New bars: Handling too good?
> >Date: Sat, 23 Feb 2002 23:18:56 -0500
> >
> >How much of a factor is it with only a new rear sway bar vs. the car with
> >new front and rear sway bars?
> >
> >Eric
> >'93 Stealth ES
> >New struts/shocks
> >Eibach lowering springs
> >Cusco rear sway bar

***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 25 Feb 2002 16:09:56 -0800
From: "Gross, Erik" <erik.gross@intel.com>
Subject: FW: Team3S: New bars: Handling too good?

I think Eric meant to send this to the list...

- --Erik

- -----Original Message-----
From: Eric [mailto:griz600cc@home.com]
Sent: Monday, February 25, 2002 3:59 PM
To: Gross, Erik
Subject: Re: Team3S: New bars: Handling too good?

I decided to go with the Eibach for a couple of reasons. One is Eibach
makes the factory springs. Two is Eibach also creates a lot of the springs
for racing teams. (At least this is my belief. If anyone know other wise
please let me know.) I didn't get the front strut bar, my car is fwd not awd
anyway. I also decided to add the sway bars, both front and rear. I believe
you can find some information the FAQs or search page.

***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 25 Feb 2002 16:18:14 -0800 (PST)
From: menalteed <menalteed@yahoo.com>
Subject: RE: Team3S: TEAM 3S Turbo swap guide

I just has a good look at the rear turbo and the wheel
inside I tried to spin, but it was broken and wobbled.
I would guess if that being the case it could have
blown oil all over into the inlet air "A" hose. I do
need a new PCV valve as I have had oil coming out from
the oil cap area and reading this thread that seems to
be a common problem. Now here is the question now that
the rear turbo is out and shot. does anyone have a
good way to get the two bolts out of the rear turbo
exhaust
flange, I'm afraid to score up the metal if I use a
pipe wrench. Also I had washers under all three nuts
on that flange, just a side bar. Someone please
explain where I would install a oil catch can if I had
a mind too, and is there a place to order one or has
everyone just made their own,

Peter

***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 26 Feb 2002 01:26:13 +0100
From: "Roger Gerl" <roger.gerl@bluewin.ch>
Subject: Team3S: Kankvent was "Turbo swap guide"

> need a new PCV valve as I have had oil coming out from
> the oil cap area and reading this thread that seems to
> be a common problem.

Get the Turbo Kit from http://www.et-performance.com/krank_vents.html that
solves any crankcase ventilation problem. You can get a nikel plated brass
fitting from me (or find one) that eliminates the PCV-Valve to remove this
restriction as well.

Roger
93'3000GT TT
www.rtec.ch


***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 26 Feb 2002 08:49:53 +0800
From: "John Stegall III" <jstegall@programmer.net>
Subject: Team3S: Tranny Filler/Sealant?

In need of help from you gurus again.  Having been on the list for a while, I've noticed a few people mention fluids that could be poured into the tranny that can seal up cracks and leaks.  The other day I was out with a friend who used the exact same thing on his first gen eclipse tranny and it worked like a charm.  I was wondering what the success is on our trannies?  I've got a leak in my tranny, and I'm willing to try that stuff out first with my next oil change before anything else.  The leak is quite small, so I'm thinking this just might do the trick.  Any suggestions would be much appreciated.  Thanks.

John
94 VR-4 (stock)
- --

***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 25 Feb 2002 19:09:10 -0600
From: "Mark Wendlandt" <stealth_tt@hotmail.com>
Subject: RE: Team3S: TEAM 3S Turbo swap guide

>does anyone have a
>good way to get the two bolts out of the rear turbo
>exhaust
>flange, I'm afraid to score up the metal if I use a
>pipe wrench.

You can try and double up a couple of nuts and lock(tighten) them together
on the stud.  Once locked, you might be able to back the studs out by trying
to loosen the bottom nut.  I was very unsuccessful at this(because of the
corrosion) and just bought new studs from mitsu. for the O2 housing.

Good luck,

Mark Wendlandt
'91RT/TT

***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 25 Feb 2002 18:25:19 -0700
From: Wayne <whietala@prodigy.net>
Subject: Re: Team3S: Turbo swap guide

Sounds like you already found the problem, which i was thinking...a bad turbo.
The rear turbo most likely spewed all that oil into the pipes. The reason
it's also in the intake side, is because it passed through the blow off valve.

You might want to remove the drivers side intercooler and drain the oil out
of it too, rather than letting the new turbo blow it into your engine. If
you had that much oil in the hose, you probably have as much, if not more
in the intercooler.

I removed an intercooler from a car that had a blown rear turbo, and there
was about 2 quarts in the I/C. All this oil in the intake caused the motor
to hydraulically lock, and break 2 rods.

Wayne

At 03:19 PM 2/25/02 -0800, menalteed wrote:
>Now one major problem
>I didn't catch and I do have some question about this,
>the air intake hose "A" when I diconected it  I didn't
>think it would be full of oil but it was and made a
>mess on my driveway, it had about a 1/4 to 1/2 a quart
>of oil in it and I can't but be worried about where
>that oil came from. There was oil in all the pipes
>leaving the turbo but I didn't expect oil in the hose
>leading into the turbo, the manifold exhust was dry.
>The turbo was full of oil. Is there anyway oil can get
>into the intake Hose "A" other then maybe backing up
>from the turbo. Is there anything down towards the air
>filter that could be a problem with throwing oil into
>the intake air lines. I see several smaler hoses
>conecting into the air hose but don't have any idea if
>they could be the sourse of oil, any help!
>
>Peter

***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 25 Feb 2002 20:29:33 EST
From: NETM1NDER@aol.com
Subject: Re: Team3S: New bars: Handling too good?

A front strut tower brace from (Tecperformance) will fix that. Ask Jim Or
Eirc Gross. They have one.

    Chris  95VR4(tecperformance.com)

***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***

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Date: Mon, 25 Feb 2002 18:42:35 -0700
From: "Erik Petterson" <erikpetterson@yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: Team3S: --- FIXXED --- Emergency Brake Light Stays On ???

Ok well somehow this weekend the brake light fixxed itself.  It's been doing
it for about a month and a half but I went on a trip this weekend and drove
for like 300 miles straight.  And then took it on a couple of bumpy dirt
roads.  Somewhere along the line it fixxed itself.  Also where I went was
below freezing during the night time so maybe that had something to do with
it???

Probably something to do with the switch, but I'm not gonna touch it unless
it starts up again.

Thanks for the help though,

- -Erik
91 Stealth

- ----- Original Message -----
From: "dakken" <dougusmagnus@attbi.com>
To: "Erik Petterson" <erikpetterson@yahoo.com>; "Stealth List"
<Team3S@stealth-3000gt.st>
Sent: Friday, February 22, 2002 9:26 PM
Subject: Re: Team3S: Emergency Brake Light Stays On ???

> In general, you will have a higher voltage reading in the morning because
> your battery is cold.  Cold batteries have a lower voltage reading so your
> car thinks that it has to recharge the battery.  To do this, it will
> increase the power coming from your alternator.  When your battery get up
to
> normal operating temperature, and it is fully charged, then your voltage
> reading will drop back to normal or 12.5 volts for your car.  This is all
> normal.
>
> As for your brake light, you should check something simple first before
you
> start replacing things.  Check your parking brake switch.  See if it is
> sticking or if there is any goo in it that might make it stick or disrupt
an
> electrical connection.  I saved $75 when I just took apart my cruise
control
> main switch and cleaned the internal contacts instead of replacing it like
> the dealer said.
>
>
> Doug
> 92 Stealth RT TT
>
>
> > Yes, yes, yes I already checked the brake fluid level and it's perfect.
I
> > searched through the archives and did my homework but could not find a
> > similar post.  It seems to be related to the car having more "juice" in
> the
> > mornings....  Anyone know why I would get a 13.5 volt reading in the
> morning
> > and then it slowly goes down during the day to around 12.5 and then
that's
> > when the brake light goes off and it will stay at that reading all day
> long.
> > ?????   (seems like it charges itself a little at night?)
> >
> > Is it hard to change the ebrake cable/assembly out?
> >
> > Any help is appreciated,
> >
> > Thanks,
> > -Erik
> > 91 Stealth

***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 25 Feb 2002 20:05:24 -0600
From: "merritt@cedar-rapids.net" <merritt@cedar-rapids.net>
Subject: Team3S: The $50 Iowa mod.

Last week, the Cedar Rapids, Iowa, speed shop Fast and Furious did the "free horsepower" mod to my 92 Eagle Talon TSi AWD turbo. This is a completely bone stock Talon with 115,000 miles and Blizzak snow tires, onto which F&F executed the RRE "free mods" (free, plus $50 labor, of course).

Today, we had a chance to do a baseline check to see how we're doing. Here are the results of four consecutive passes on a G-Tech:

1.  13.93 @ 101.8
2.  14.39 @ 96.1
3.  14.05 @ 99.1
4.  13.78 @ 104.2

That's with a pro drag racer driving and launching, smoking all four wheels. I couldn't possibly launch a car like that. I've been in the car when Trent Durham, the owner of F&F, did such a launch, and I'm not sure my neck can take the snap.

I am a road racer/rally driver, not a drag racer, but this is how we are going to judge all future mods. Trent tells me he has a few more interesting mods to make as we shoot for low 13s next.

He has cast his evil eye on my 3000GT VR4 and says he can easily get it into the 12s, maybe the high 11s with a little fiddling and proper driving. I dunno about all this juvenile drag racing hero driving crap. But if he can get my stock Talon into the 13s with a $50 mod, I am all for it. It sure gets up to where I want to go -- 100+ on gravel -- pretty dang quick now, and it's not a peaky as it was.

But into the 11s on my VR4? Holy shit.

C'mon out Eastern Iowans - let's not let this guy get away.
Rich
94 3000GT VR4 TT AWD
92 Talon TSi AWD turbo

***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***

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End of Team3S: 3000GT & Stealth V1 #764
***************************************