Team3S: 3000GT & Stealth Monday, February 25
2002 Volume 01 : Number
764
----------------------------------------------------------------------
Date:
Sun, 24 Feb 2002 19:56:52 -0600
From: "cody" <
overclck@satx.rr.com>
Subject: RE:
Team3S: Yet another wheel fitment question
I was told they
wouldn't....
- -COdy
- -----Original Message-----
From:
owner-team3s@team3s.com
[mailto:owner-team3s@team3s.com] On Behalf
Of Jeff VanOrsdal
Sent: Sunday,
February 24, 2002 10:54 AM
To: Team3s Tech List
Subject: Team3S: Yet
another wheel fitment question
I have checked the archive and found
nothing regarding this wheel. So
I'll
ask here. Does anyone
know if the 18x8 40mm offset Konig Vilian will
fit a
1st gen TT? A
friend of mine has found a set for a great deal but
hasn't
been able to
find out if they'll fit his car. Thanks.
Jeff V.
1991 Stealth
ESX Twin Turbo (currently DOA)
jeffv@1nce.com*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Sun, 24 Feb 2002 21:03:28
-0600
From: "cody" <
overclck@satx.rr.com>
Subject: RE:
Team3S: New bars: Handling too good?
It almost seems like this would be
optimum if driven correctly, more
like a RWD car than a AWD car...
-
-Cody
- -----Original Message-----
From:
owner-team3s@team3s.com
[mailto:owner-team3s@team3s.com] On Behalf
Of Floyd, Jim
Sent: Sunday,
February 24, 2002 12:12 PM
To: Team 3S
Subject: RE: Team3S: New bars:
Handling too good?
Eric,
When I had only the rear strut and
anti-sway bar the car really
over
steered - it was too twitchy -
dangerous.
- -----Original Message-----
From: Eric
[mailto:griz600cc@home.com]
Sent: Saturday, February 23, 2002 9:19 PM
To:
Team 3S
Subject: Re: Team3S: New bars: Handling too good?
How much of
a factor is it with only a new rear sway bar vs. the car
with
new front
and rear sway bars?
Eric
'93 Stealth ES
New
struts/shocks
Eibachi lowering springs
Cusco rear sway bar
- -----
Original Message -----
From: <
merritt@cedar-rapids.net>
To:
<
Team3S@stealth-3000gt.st>;
<
team3s@team3s.com>
Sent:
Saturday, February 23, 2002 10:19 PM
Subject: Team3S: New bars: Handling too
good?
> Tried out the new front and rear sway bars real good, today.
Sunny and
bright, and the 100 mph sweepers beckoned. She really sticks in
there,
even
at 100+, with no trace of over or understeer. Dead neutral,
flat as a
pancake, and solid as a rock. I am nowhere near the car's
cornering
limit,
but I am not likely to try to find the limit on public
roads and street
tires. (If they catch me driving at 100 mph in Iowa, they
throw me under
the
jail.)
>
> One lil ol problem: The response
to steering input is now
instantaneous.
The car tends to be a little
darty, therefore, as I am trying to
re-learn
the steering. All I have to
do now is just THINK about changing lanes
and
it's over there. Might be a
little too fast, because it's tough to make
tiny
corrections--such as
edging away from the center line to stay centered
in
the
lane.
>
> We have the front bar tightened down to the limit on the
adjuster.
Whaddaya think -- loosen it up a little? Or look elsewhere?
Adjust
alignment
maybe? How do you slow down the steering just a
smidge?
>
> Rich/slow old poop
> 94 VR4 w/front and rear sway
bars, Eibachs, Ground Control, lowered to
the
max, and camber plates.
Alignment set to -2.5 deg camber, +0.5 toe,
maximum
castor, front/ -1 deg
camber, 0 toe rear.
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Sun, 24 Feb 2002 19:25:45
-0700
From: "Mike & Cathy" <
micajoco@theofficenet.com>
Subject:
Team3S: bent valves
Just found out I need to do a valve job. Bent valves
when timinig belt went.
What damage could the valves have done to the top of
the pistons if any?
What am I looking at in cost to have the heads rebuilt?
Is there anything I
should have done to improve performance as long as the
heads have to come
off any how? Just gutted precats and installed a test pipe
.
Mike S 92 r/t tt Wash. St.
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Sun, 24 Feb 2002 22:35:51
-0600
From: "Jannusch, Matt" <
mjannusch@marketwatch.com>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: bent valves
> Just found out I need to do a valve job.
Bent valves when
> timinig belt went. What damage could the valves have
done
> to the top of the pistons if any? What am I looking at in
>
cost to have the heads rebuilt? Is there anything I should
> have done to
improve performance as long as the heads have
> to come off any how? Just
gutted precats and installed a
> test pipe .
The valves can take
divots out of the piston faces. :-(
The only way to find out is
when you take the heads off, which you'll need
to do anyway. Costs for
head rebuild will depend a lot on how many valves
are bent, and whether or
not there is any other damage. I'd estimate no
less than $200 per head
for the actual head work itself.
I haven't really seen anyone get major
power increases with head work, but
you could port the heads. They seem
to flow pretty well as is though. Head
porting (when done right) is
usually pretty spendy. Resist the urge to do a
homemade porting job on
the heads. It is difficult to tell what is right
without a flow
bench.
- -Matt
'95 3000GT Spyder VR4
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Sun, 24 Feb 2002 20:49:32
-0800 (PST)
From: John Christian <
jczoom_619@yahoo.com>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: bent valves
Hi Mike&Cathy,
You may want to port match
the intake and exhaust
channels. You'll need a die grinder and
burrs. It
took me about 8 hours to do the heads and
the
manifolds. Mine doesn't look as pretty as Roger's,
but I only
spent time not $$$$.
I don't have pics posted, but you can see what
Roger
had done at:
http://www.rtec.ch/upgrade_project.htmlBe
of good cheer,
John
- --- Mike & Cathy <
micajoco@theofficenet.com>
wrote:
> Just found out I need to do a valve job. Bent valves
> when
timinig belt went.
> What damage could the valves have done to the top
of
> the pistons if any?
> What am I looking at in cost to have the
heads
> rebuilt? Is there anything I
> should have done to improve
performance as long as
> the heads have to come
> off any how? Just
gutted precats and installed a
> test pipe .
>
> Mike S 92
r/t tt Wash. St.
=====
Please respond to
jczoom@iname.com'93 TT with Porsche
brakes and Supra TT rotors
12.4@109MPH
5/97 almost stock
http://www.geocities.com/motorcity/flats/4538***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Sun, 24 Feb 2002 22:15:57
-0800 (PST)
From: John Christian <
jczoom_619@yahoo.com>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: Turbo oil feed line
Hi,
I put on 13Gs when I blew the rear
turbo. I didn't
have to take off the AC. The manual tells you to
take
off a whole bunch which is NOT necessary. I did
remove the
passenger fan which made the front turbo
swap much EASIER. Now I would
just remove the WHOLE
radiator.
Getting the oil and water lines
reconnected was a real
PIA. I bought new oil lines, but never put them
on as
the oringinal ones were fine AND changing them would
have been a
nightmare.
The rear turbo is the real BBuster. Bandaids
and
hydrogenPeroxide are required.
Be of good cheer,
John
-
--- menalteed <
menalteed@yahoo.com> wrote:
> My
front turbo is off, I'm waiting for gaskets in
> the
> mail and now
The dreaded oil feed line is next on my
> task list. 92 RT TT Stealth. The
question is this,
> It
> looks like a lot of work! but do I realy
need a
> tensioner pully socket wrench, seems like just
>
puting
> the Air conditioner compressor back on the bracket
>
and
> puting the belt on and tight is good enough, by
>
golly
> the the book range is 12lbs difference and if I get
>
it back aprox to what I found it at I should be good
> enough. Now
remember I want to get this back on the
> road without going further in
the hole. My new
> turbos
> are 13g's.
=====
Please
respond to
jczoom@iname.com'93 TT with
Porsche brakes and Supra TT rotors
12.4@109MPH 5/97 almost stock
http://www.geocities.com/motorcity/flats/4538***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Sun, 24 Feb 2002 22:15:57
-0800 (PST)
From: John Christian <
jczoom_619@yahoo.com>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: Turbo oil feed line
Hi,
I put on 13Gs when I blew the rear
turbo. I didn't
have to take off the AC. The manual tells you to
take
off a whole bunch which is NOT necessary. I did
remove the
passenger fan which made the front turbo
swap much EASIER. Now I would
just remove the WHOLE
radiator.
Getting the oil and water lines
reconnected was a real
PIA. I bought new oil lines, but never put them
on as
the oringinal ones were fine AND changing them would
have been a
nightmare.
The rear turbo is the real BBuster. Bandaids
and
hydrogenPeroxide are required.
Be of good cheer,
John
-
--- menalteed <
menalteed@yahoo.com> wrote:
> My
front turbo is off, I'm waiting for gaskets in the
> mail and now The
dreaded oil feed line is next on my
> task list. 92 RT TT Stealth. The
question is this,
> It looks like a lot of work! but do I realy need
a
> tensioner pully socket wrench, seems like just
>
puting the Air conditioner compressor back on the bracket
>
and puting the belt on and tight is good enough, by
> golly the
the book range is 12lbs difference and if I get
> it back aprox to
what I found it at I should be good
> enough. Now remember I want to get
this back on the
> road without going further in the hole. My
new turbos
> are 13g's.
=====
Please respond to
jczoom@iname.com'93 TT with Porsche
brakes and Supra TT rotors
12.4@109MPH
5/97 almost stock
http://www.geocities.com/motorcity/flats/4538***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 25 Feb 2002 14:00:52
+0100
From: Jim Matthews <
jim@the-matthews.com>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: 91 v 94
>Not faster.
>It seems to me that my
stock engined 94 is every bit as fast -- if not
faster -- than her boost
controlled car.
Didn't we discuss this after one of your track reports
last year?
Before you install the boost controller, connect a boost
gauge to see
what pressures you're running now. My guess is that
you'll see numbers
higher than stock. If she sets her boost controller
to the pressures
you're running, her car should make the same power (same
engine!). If
her controller is currently set to the max safe boost
(commonly
accepted as 1 bar for a mostly stock engine), but yours is making
more
power, then you can only hope the upgraded intercoolers have minimized
detonation...
- - --
Jim Matthews - Munich, Germany (currently on
vacation in the States!)
mailto:jim@the-matthews.com (64 Kbps
ISDN)
http://www.the-matthews.com***
3000GT-Stealth International (3Si) Member #0030
***
http://www.the-matthews.com/stealth.htmlJet
Black '94 Dodge Stealth R/T Twin-Turbo AWD AWS 6-spd
Adjustable Active
Suspension, Adjustable Exhaust System
K&N FIPK, A'PEXi Super AVC-R v.1
(1.0 bar @ 64% BADC)
A'PEXi Turbo Timer (30 sec), Blitz Super Blow-Off
Valve
Magnecore spark plug wires, Optima Red Top 830 Battery
Redline synth
fluids (trans= MT-90, xfer & diff= SPHvy)
Cryoed rotors, R4S pads,
braided lines, red calipers
Michelin Pilot XGT-Z4 245/45ZR17, Top Speed: 171
mph
G-Tech Pro: 0-60 4.79 sec, 1/4 13.16 sec @ 113.9 mph
1 Feb 99 Dyno
Session: 367 SAE HP, 354 lb-ft torque
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 25 Feb 2002 08:17:55
-0600
From: "
merritt@cedar-rapids.net" <
merritt@cedar-rapids.net>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: 91 v 94
At 02:00 PM 2/25/02 +0100, you wrote:
>>Not
faster.
>>It seems to me that my stock engined 94 is every bit
as fast -- if not
>faster -- than her boost controlled
car.
>
>Didn't we discuss this after one of your track reports last
year?
>Before you install the boost controller, connect a boost
gauge to see
>what pressures you're running now.
I did. I'm
running 10-12 psi.
Rich
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 25 Feb 2002 08:52:45
-0600
From: "Willis, Charles E." <
cewillis@TexasChildrensHospital.org>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: 91 v 94
In the 5 speed I used 2nd gear for slow turns like
the carousel at Texas
World Speedway and Turn 14/15 at Heartland Park.
In the 6 speed I am using
3rd gear. Since the rpms are higher at the
same speed and same gear, I am
getting higher boost in the six speed, so I
can afford to stay in a higher
gear. I've just started trying to
upshift into 4th for some sweepers with
the six speed, and I think that might
have been inappropriate for the five
speed.
Rich uses the shifter a
lot more than I do.
Chuck
> -----Original Message-----
>
From:
merritt@cedar-rapids.net
[SMTP:merritt@cedar-rapids.net]
> Sent: Sunday, February 24, 2002 2:55
PM
> To:
Team3S@stealth-3000gt.st;
team3s@team3s.com> Subject: Team3S:
91 v 94
>
> Love the five speed.
> I think 2nd gear in a 5
speed would be more useful for open tracking, cuz
> it's much longer than
2nd in the six speed. I can think of several corners
> where I wish I had
such a gear. It also helps explain why the 1st gens
> don't have
overheating problems, because with the longer 2nd gear the car
> is not
into the turbos as much coming out of slower turns. Something to
>
consider for folks who are looking for a car in which to go open
tracking.
> (Chuck: you have both. What do you think about 5 spd v 6
spd?)
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 25 Feb 2002 08:52:45
-0600
From: "Willis, Charles E." <
cewillis@TexasChildrensHospital.org>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: 91 v 94
In the 5 speed I used 2nd gear for slow turns like
the carousel at Texas
World Speedway and Turn 14/15 at Heartland Park.
In the 6 speed I am using
3rd gear. Since the rpms are higher at the
same speed and same gear, I am
getting higher boost in the six speed, so I
can afford to stay in a higher
gear. I've just started trying to
upshift into 4th for some sweepers with
the six speed, and I think that might
have been inappropriate for the five
speed.
Rich uses the shifter a
lot more than I do.
Chuck
> -----Original Message-----
>
From:
merritt@cedar-rapids.net
[SMTP:merritt@cedar-rapids.net]
> Sent: Sunday, February 24, 2002 2:55
PM
> To:
Team3S@stealth-3000gt.st;
team3s@team3s.com> Subject: Team3S:
91 v 94
>
> Love the five speed.
> I think 2nd gear in a 5
speed would be more useful for open tracking, cuz
> it's much longer than
2nd in the six speed. I can think of several corners
> where I wish I had
such a gear. It also helps explain why the 1st gens
> don't have
overheating problems, because with the longer 2nd gear the car
> is not
into the turbos as much coming out of slower turns. Something to
>
consider for folks who are looking for a car in which to go open
tracking.
> (Chuck: you have both. What do you think about 5 spd v 6
spd?)
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 25 Feb 2002 09:08:46
-0800 (PST)
From: menalteed <
menalteed@yahoo.com>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: Turbo oil feed line
The progress on my turbo swap, I'm doing it a
little
at a time. My new 13G.s are very shinny siting here on
the floor
wrapped for protection in plastic. So far I
have the front turbo off, and
yesterday started with
the rear turbo. The rear so far has the precasts
or
what ever it is that holds the O2 gismo off, and the
top nut from the
turbo housing. I crawled under to get
the
bottom two bolts or nuts off
the turbo but they
haven't broken lose so far, today getting a
bigger
cheater bar to get them off, if the weather holds.
I'm doing
this outside in my driveway and weather
plays a factor. I still haven't made
up my mind on
replacing the oil feed lines but UPS says my gaskets
won't
be here for another five days so I have time if
I do go ahead and change
them. I have ordered all new
oil feed lines. I can't tell if the ones on the
car
are good or not just by looking without taking them
off. I want to
thank this club and everyone who has
posted on this turbo swap, I couldn't
have made it
this far without you. This has
been a job at the limit of my
tools, and skill but
haven't ran into any major problems yet. I feel
very
good about the money I'm saving doing this myself
rather then my
local dealer who wanted over four
thousand dollars to do this job, and that
was for
stock turbos. I have about fourteen hundred that I
paid for the
turbos and about two hundred in tools and
other parts gaskets and such. I
could have had the old
turbos rebuilt for far cheaper but went with
new
upgrades 13G. I didn't want to go bigger as most of my
use of the car
is street driving and I'm not planing
on racing it although I'm also
installing the K&N air
filter
system. I wish I understood a little
more about the
BOV and several other things as it seems like a good
time
for doing some little "not to difficult" HP
upgrades along with the new
shinny turbos. For those
of you who have been through this turbo madness
my
hats off to you, any tips are always welcome. I should
be back up and
running my Pearl white paid for 92 RT
TT with the
nice factory sunroof
within a few weeks if not days.
People in Seattle can look for it, I drive
around a
lot in the North East part of town and hit Magnesium
Park at
least once a day, it is very close.
Thanks
again.
Peter
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 25 Feb 2002 10:18:24
-0800
From: "Gross, Erik" <
erik.gross@intel.com>
Subject: RE:
Team3S: New bars: Handling too good?
> > From: Floyd, Jim
>
> When I had only the rear strut and anti-sway bar
> > the car
really over steered - it was too twitchy -
> > dangerous.
>
From: cody
>
> It almost seems like this would be optimum if
driven
> correctly, more like a RWD ca
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 25 Feb 2002 13:40:06
-0500
From: "Zobel, Kurt" <
KURT.ZOBEL@ca.com>
Subject: RE:
Team3S: BAFMOC
Personally, I would not relocate the oil cooler, because
the water cooling is more important and effective. You could just double up with
two stock oil coolers. Try not to overlap the frontal areas. That would maximize
the cooling area, add a little reserve to oil supply, and be easy to replumb.
Plumb with the hot inlet into the rear cooler, then its output to the forward
cooler.
PS. Call me the doublemint freak, I am working on dual TB intake
and dual caliper brakes for my NA. (Not worrying about oil cooler yet, as I
don't have any.)
Other notes:
The aluminum finned oil filter covers
should work well to reduce heat.
The propped hood and remove rear weather
seal on hood works well for me, gets at least 10deg cooling.
Flush radiator,
use Water wetter is something I will do this year, and every two years.
Idea
not tested, use the steel braided water hose covers, they should help cool as
well as looking 'cool'.
Use insulated tape or dryer duct around all intake
piping before turbos.
Ensure cool air intake, from front of grill or hood
scoop or at least punch/drill holes through air intake area to wheel well.
Go for it!
Kurt/Skyrider
- -----Original
Message-----
From:
merritt@cedar-rapids.net
[mailto:merritt@cedar-rapids.net]
Sent: Friday, February 22, 2002 12:21
PM
To: Floyd, Jim;
team3s@team3s.comSubject: RE: Team3S:
BAFMOC
At 01:08 PM 2/22/02 -0700, Floyd, Jim
wrote:
>Merrit,
>
> Do you have a big ass oil cooler in mind
?
>
The boys at Denny's Muffler suggested one off a Dodge truck -- they
said it was about 18 x 6 in., but couldn't remember the year or model. I suspect
it would be easy enough to find one the correct size somewhere.
Rich
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 25 Feb 2002 13:42:06
-0500
From: "Zobel, Kurt" <
KURT.ZOBEL@ca.com>
Subject: RE:
Team3S: BAFMOC
I'll take a dozen! kdz
- -----Original
Message-----
From:
merritt@cedar-rapids.net
[mailto:merritt@cedar-rapids.net]
Sent: Friday, February 22, 2002 12:38
PM
To: Willis, Charles E.; 'Floyd, Jim';
team3s@team3s.comSubject: RE: Team3S:
BAFMOC
At 02:12 PM 2/22/02 -0600, Willis, Charles E. wrote:
>I hope
somebody will make some temperature measurements. I'm curious
about
>the effects of dumping the heat from the oil cooler into the air
flowing
>into the radiator. Seems like it would make the temperature
difference
>across the radiator lower, meaning less heat transfer out of
the radiator.
>
What I was thinking was to build a chin spoiler out of
a piece of 1/4 in. aluminum. It would span across under the front fenders and
intercoolers, and bolt to the cross member in front of the radiator (you have to
remove the bumper underpan to see whereof I speak). It would also stick out
about 4 in. in front of the bumper, and provide downforce.
Now here's
where it gets neat.
Immediately under the radiator, I'd cut a big slot
and install a stiff rubber/vinyl air dam to force air up into the radiator,
BEHIND THE BAFMOC! This way, the oil cooler will get the first shot of
air, but cool air will still come in from below.
It gets even neater.
The whole chin spoiler will be hinged in back so that I can drop it down
about an inch in the front when I get to the track. This will open up built-in
rectangular brake cooling scoops that are one inch high x 12 in. wide. Internal
channeling will force the collected air back to a 3 or 4 in. round duct that
leads directly to the rotors.
Now all I gotta do is build it.
Rich/slow old poop
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 25 Feb 2002 11:12:44
-0800
From: "Gross, Erik" <
erik.gross@intel.com>
Subject: RE:
Team3S: New bars: Handling too good?
So apparently Outlook choked or
something because it didn't send the rest of
my message. Disregard my
last post as it doesn't say anything... :-)
I was simply saying that as
of installing my front strut tower brace, I have
low-speed power-oversteer
that has twice caught me off-guard on the street.
Saved it both times,
but if I hadn't experienced it at auto-x and had some
clue as to what
to do, I might have had an accident. Both times on the
street, it was
on a damp road accelerating through a left-hand turn, having
previously
stopped at a stop-sign. Midway through the corner at about 75%
throttle
in 1st, the rear started coming around. Not fun if you're not
expecting
it.
- --Erik
'95 VR-4 with stock suspension except for F&R strut
tower braces
BTW, UPS lost my sway bars last week. BOTH of
them.... in different places
between NC and WA.
$@#%@#$%#@!!!
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 25 Feb 2002 11:37:38
-0800
From: Damon Rachell <
damonr@mefas.com>
Subject: Re: Team3S:
Yet another wheel fitment question
Jeff,
I've got this wheel on my 92
R/T TT. it fits the stock calipers with
tons of clearance. In
fact, it even fits my brembos with 12.5" rotors
with no problems. I've
got to put on a 5mm spacer in order to put on my
racing wheels, which are
stock 92 TT wheels.
Damon
Jeff VanOrsdal wrote:
> I have
checked the archive and found nothing regarding this wheel. So
I'll
> ask here. Does anyone know if the 18x8 40mm offset Konig
Vilian will fit a
> 1st gen TT? A friend of mine has found a set for
a great deal but hasn't
> been able to find out if they'll fit his
car. Thanks.
>
> Jeff V.
> 1991 Stealth ESX Twin Turbo
(currently DOA)
>
jeffv@1nce.com*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 25 Feb 2002 11:59:57
-0800 (PST)
From: Jeff Lucius <
stealthman92@yahoo.com>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: bent valves
Mike,
I have a new web page about our
cylinder heads at the url below.
http://www.geocities.com/lutransys/jlucius7/j7-2-headinfo.htmFlow
bench measurements from two sources confirm that the stock heads
can outflow
the cylinders up to to stock redline and beyond. This
does not mean that
there is no room for improvement but only that
everyone but the most extreme
HP crazies can leave the heads alone
and concentrate on other areas for
performance improvements. If you
want to do something anyway, manifold port
matching is easy, cheap,
and should have no detrimental effect if done
properly.
If doing a complete rebuild, then of course use the newer
lash
adjusters. If 8500 RPM performance is your goal, then consider
the
valve train upgrades from sources like Dynamic racing (cams,
valves,
springs, retainers). Over-sized valve guides are recommended in
any
case (Mitsu offers these, see my web page above). Your machine
shop
may want to change the valve/seat to a 3 angle grind also (seems
to
be popular with the NA performance crowd).
Jeff Lucius,
http://www.stealth316.com/- ---
Mike & Cathy <
micajoco@theofficenet.com>
wrote:
> Just found out I need to do a valve job. Bent valves when
timinig
> belt went.
> What damage could the valves have done to the
top of the pistons if
> any?
> What am I looking at in cost to have
the heads rebuilt? Is there
> anything I
> should have done to
improve performance as long as the heads have
> to come
> off any
how? Just gutted precats and installed a test pipe .
>
> Mike S 92
r/t tt Wash. St.
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 25 Feb 2002 16:02:30
-0700
From: "Floyd, Jim" <
Jim_Floyd@maxtor.com>
Subject: RE:
Team3S: boost controller
Where do you get the SX FPR ?
-
-----Original Message-----
From: xwing [mailto:xwing@wi.rr.com]
Sent:
Saturday, February 23, 2002 9:39 AM
To:
team3s@stealth-3000gt.stSubject:
Re: Team3S: boost controller
I had the stock FPR on my VR4's with the
HKS/Cosmo upgrade pump which is
essentially the same as a Supra Mk IV
pump...PLUS a Kenne-Bell Boost-A-Pump
to up the voltage/output even more (it
only came on under boost), and never
used anything BUT the stock FPR.
No problems...just set records.
I have an adjustable SX FPR on my 94 now that
I have 2 Walbro pumps in that
car...set to stock pressure value.
Jack
T.
From: "Steve Cooper"
> > If you install the Supra pump
without an adjustable
> > fuel pressure regulator or an electronic
fuel
> > controller (i.e. S-AFC) you will run rich at idle
> >
(and probably WOT, too).
> People who try to sell new things, like
adjustable FPRs tend to stretch t
> facts a bit in order to get a
sale.
>Steve
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 25 Feb 2002 17:56:05
-0000
From: "Sam Shelat" <
sshelat@erols.com>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: cylinder head efficiency
If this is true, and the fact that 15gs
are more then adequate for the flow
of the heads to make power, then why do
some people make more power at
15-17psi then others? I can understand
that maybe the stock heads can't do
anything with much bigger turbos except
benefit from their efficiency at
higher psi levels, but to say the heads flow
enough as is says that we will
never see more then about 400horse at the
crank at 15psi. I have read up on
many Grand National build ups where
at 14psi, they were making upwards of
500h.p., and by 24psi almost
1000h.p.. Now, I know our stock heads flow
better then a 3.8 litre
buick head stock for stock. On the Buick, they
arrived at the larger
numbers by using a replacement head with larger ports
and larger
valves. If they put those huge turbos on a stock motored car,
they
would make about 300horse at 14psi. In addition, some guys with
race
ported motors have traction problems at 15psi, which tells me they
are
making way more then 400h.p. at the crank. Some clarification or
discussion
on this topic may be nice. It may not interest the track
guys to make an
extra 100h.p. at the same psi they are running at now, but
some of us drag
racers need to know.
Sam
- -----Original
Message-----
From: Jeff Lucius <
stealthman92@yahoo.com>
To: Mike
& Cathy <
micajoco@theofficenet.com>;
team3s@stealth-3000gt.st<
team3s@stealth-3000gt.st>
Date:
Monday, February 25, 2002 8:03 PM
Subject: Re: Team3S: bent
valves
>Mike,
>
>I have a new web page about our cylinder
heads at the url
below.
>
>http://www.geocities.com/lutransys/jlucius7/j7-2-headinfo.htm
>
>Flow
bench measurements from two sources confirm that the stock heads
>can
outflow the cylinders up to to stock redline and beyond. This
>does not
mean that there is no room for improvement but only that
>everyone but the
most extreme HP crazies can leave the heads alone
>and concentrate on
other areas for performance improvements. If you
>want to do something
anyway, manifold port matching is easy, cheap,
>and should have no
detrimental effect if done properly.
>
>If doing a complete rebuild,
then of course use the newer lash
>adjusters. If 8500 RPM performance is
your goal, then consider the
>valve train upgrades from sources like
Dynamic racing (cams, valves,
>springs, retainers). Over-sized valve
guides are recommended in any
>case (Mitsu offers these, see my web page
above). Your machine shop
>may want to change the valve/seat to a 3 angle
grind also (seems to
>be popular with the NA performance
crowd).
>
>Jeff Lucius,
http://www.stealth316.com/>
>---
Mike & Cathy <
micajoco@theofficenet.com>
wrote:
>> Just found out I need to do a valve job. Bent valves when
timinig
>> belt went.
>> What damage could the valves have
done to the top of the pistons if
>> any?
>> What am I looking
at in cost to have the heads rebuilt? Is there
>> anything
I
>> should have done to improve performance as long as the heads
have
>> to come
>> off any how? Just gutted precats and
installed a test pipe .
>>
>> Mike S 92 r/t tt Wash.
St.
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 25 Feb 2002 15:19:18
-0800 (PST)
From: menalteed <
menalteed@yahoo.com>
Subject:
Team3S: TEAM 3S Turbo swap guide
I just removed my rear turbo and have
found some steps
in the 3S guide not necessary. First I didn't remove
the
intake Plenum, that saves a bunch of time. I found
that I was able to remove
the rear turbo with the
waste gate air house still on but disconected from
the
top side. I also had no problem removing the turbo
with the oil return
pipe still conected, a much
improved method over trying to disconect while in
the
engine area, same for the front.I also didn't bother
removing the O2
sensor front or rear, although I did
disconect the electric plug to get more
play in the
rear.
The Stealth manual recomends removing the battery
tray
and washer bottle but that is not going to help at
all, it has
nothing to do with the rear turbo. The
book also shows that you should remove
the EGR valve,
nope don't bother it adds nothing to removing the
rear
turbo. The Turbo came right out with me standing at
the fender on the
drivers side. Now one major problem
I didn't catch and I do have some
question about this,
the air intake hose "A" when I diconected it I
didn't
think it would be full of oil but it was and made a
mess on my
driveway, it had about a 1/4 to 1/2 a quart
of oil in it and I can't but be
worried about where
that oil came from. There was oil in all the
pipes
leaving the turbo but I didn't expect oil in the hose
leading into
the turbo, the manifold exhust was dry.
The turbo was full of oil. Is there
anyway oil can get
into the intake Hose "A" other then maybe backing
up
from the turbo. Is there anything down towards the air
filter that
could be a problem with throwing oil into
the intake air lines. I see several
smaler hoses
conecting into the air hose but don't have any idea if
they
could be the sourse of oil, any help!
Peter
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 25 Feb 2002 15:58:51
-0800
From: "Gross, Erik" <
erik.gross@intel.com>
Subject: RE:
Team3S: TEAM 3S Turbo swap guide
Thanks for the information on removing
the rear turbo - I've gotta do that
eventually since I want an EGT probe back
there.
As far as air in the intake hose to the rear turbo (I don't
remember if
that's Hose A, but since you've been talking about the rear
turbo...), the
valve cover breather hose dumps into the "T" intake pipe (from
MAS and
splits to the two turbos) on the side that goes toward the rear
turbo. My
rear turbo inlet hose has a light coating of oil inside, I
guess due to
oil/vapors being sucked out of the rear valve cover. Yours
could have come
from there.
As far as oil in the inlet hose and/or
turbo, I'd suspect the breather hose
or the turbo itself. If that's
from the breather hose, that sounds like a
LOT of oil and probably something
to be concerned about. Perhaps you have
some blow-by that's increasing
your crankcase pressure and causing oil to
spew out into the inlet
hose.
I now have a catch can on that breather hose on my
VR-4 specifically to
address this problem of oil/fumes coming from the valve
cover into the inlet
hose.
- --Erik
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 25 Feb 2002 19:05:24
-0500
From: "Eric" <
griz600cc@home.com>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: New bars: Handling too good?
Sorry almost forgot. Here is the
price run down. At least what I paid for
it:
Struts (2):
$210.00
Shcoks (2): $150.00
Eibach Springs (1): $270.00
Cusco Rear
Strut Bar (1): $125
Addco Front Sway Bar (1): $190
Addco Rear Sway Bar
(1): $190
Figure about $20 for shipping, it will put you at about $1155.
-
----- Original Message -----
From: "Dustin Lenz" <
dustin_lenz@hotmail.com>
To:
<
griz600cc@home.com>
Sent:
Monday, February 25, 2002 11:35 AM
Subject: Re: Team3S: New bars: Handling
too good?
> Couple questions, why did you go with new
struts/shocks and Eibach
lowering
> springs instead of the tein setup?
If cost, what did all that run you? I
> want my car lower plus am
hearing thumping noises over bumps, thus
> considering new
parts.
>
> Thanks in advance for your time,
>
-Dustin/97VR4
>
>
> >From: "Eric" <
griz600cc@home.com>
> >To:
"Team 3S" <
Team3S@stealth-3000gt.st>
>
>Subject: Re: Team3S: New bars: Handling too good?
> >Date: Sat, 23
Feb 2002 23:18:56 -0500
> >
> >How much of a factor is it with
only a new rear sway bar vs. the car with
> >new front and rear sway
bars?
> >
> >Eric
> >'93 Stealth ES
> >New
struts/shocks
> >Eibach lowering springs
> >Cusco rear sway
bar
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 25 Feb 2002 16:09:56
-0800
From: "Gross, Erik" <
erik.gross@intel.com>
Subject: FW:
Team3S: New bars: Handling too good?
I think Eric meant to send this to
the list...
- --Erik
- -----Original Message-----
From: Eric
[mailto:griz600cc@home.com]
Sent: Monday, February 25, 2002 3:59 PM
To:
Gross, Erik
Subject: Re: Team3S: New bars: Handling too good?
I
decided to go with the Eibach for a couple of reasons. One is Eibach
makes
the factory springs. Two is Eibach also creates a lot of the springs
for
racing teams. (At least this is my belief. If anyone know other wise
please
let me know.) I didn't get the front strut bar, my car is fwd not awd
anyway.
I also decided to add the sway bars, both front and rear. I believe
you can
find some information the FAQs or search page.
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 25 Feb 2002 16:18:14
-0800 (PST)
From: menalteed <
menalteed@yahoo.com>
Subject: RE:
Team3S: TEAM 3S Turbo swap guide
I just has a good look at the rear turbo
and the wheel
inside I tried to spin, but it was broken and wobbled.
I
would guess if that being the case it could have
blown oil all over into the
inlet air "A" hose. I do
need a new PCV valve as I have had oil coming out
from
the oil cap area and reading this thread that seems to
be a common
problem. Now here is the question now that
the rear turbo is out and shot.
does anyone have a
good way to get the two bolts out of the rear
turbo
exhaust
flange, I'm afraid to score up the metal if I use a
pipe
wrench. Also I had washers under all three nuts
on that flange, just a side
bar. Someone please
explain where I would install a oil catch can if I
had
a mind too, and is there a place to order one or has
everyone just
made their own,
Peter
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 26 Feb 2002 01:26:13
+0100
From: "Roger Gerl" <
roger.gerl@bluewin.ch>
Subject:
Team3S: Kankvent was "Turbo swap guide"
> need a new PCV valve as I
have had oil coming out from
> the oil cap area and reading this thread
that seems to
> be a common problem.
Get the Turbo Kit from
http://www.et-performance.com/krank_vents.html
that
solves any crankcase ventilation problem. You can get a nikel plated
brass
fitting from me (or find one) that eliminates the PCV-Valve to remove
this
restriction as well.
Roger
93'3000GT TT
www.rtec.ch*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 26 Feb 2002 08:49:53
+0800
From: "John Stegall III" <
jstegall@programmer.net>
Subject:
Team3S: Tranny Filler/Sealant?
In need of help from you gurus
again. Having been on the list for a while, I've noticed a few people
mention fluids that could be poured into the tranny that can seal up cracks and
leaks. The other day I was out with a friend who used the exact same thing
on his first gen eclipse tranny and it worked like a charm. I was
wondering what the success is on our trannies? I've got a leak in my
tranny, and I'm willing to try that stuff out first with my next oil change
before anything else. The leak is quite small, so I'm thinking this just
might do the trick. Any suggestions would be much appreciated.
Thanks.
John
94 VR-4 (stock)
- --
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 25 Feb 2002 19:09:10
-0600
From: "Mark Wendlandt" <
stealth_tt@hotmail.com>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: TEAM 3S Turbo swap guide
>does anyone have a
>good
way to get the two bolts out of the rear turbo
>exhaust
>flange, I'm
afraid to score up the metal if I use a
>pipe wrench.
You can try
and double up a couple of nuts and lock(tighten) them together
on the
stud. Once locked, you might be able to back the studs out by trying
to loosen the bottom nut. I was very unsuccessful at this(because of
the
corrosion) and just bought new studs from mitsu. for the O2
housing.
Good luck,
Mark Wendlandt
'91RT/TT
***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 25 Feb 2002 18:25:19
-0700
From: Wayne <
whietala@prodigy.net>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: Turbo swap guide
Sounds like you already found the problem, which
i was thinking...a bad turbo.
The rear turbo most likely spewed all that oil
into the pipes. The reason
it's also in the intake side, is because it
passed through the blow off valve.
You might want to remove the drivers
side intercooler and drain the oil out
of it too, rather than letting the
new turbo blow it into your engine. If
you had that much oil in the hose,
you probably have as much, if not more
in the intercooler.
I removed
an intercooler from a car that had a blown rear turbo, and there
was about 2
quarts in the I/C. All this oil in the intake caused the motor
to
hydraulically lock, and break 2 rods.
Wayne
At 03:19 PM 2/25/02
-0800, menalteed wrote:
>Now one major problem
>I didn't catch and I
do have some question about this,
>the air intake hose "A" when I
diconected it I didn't
>think it would be full of oil but it was and
made a
>mess on my driveway, it had about a 1/4 to 1/2 a quart
>of
oil in it and I can't but be worried about where
>that oil came from.
There was oil in all the pipes
>leaving the turbo but I didn't expect oil
in the hose
>leading into the turbo, the manifold exhust was
dry.
>The turbo was full of oil. Is there anyway oil can get
>into
the intake Hose "A" other then maybe backing up
>from the turbo. Is there
anything down towards the air
>filter that could be a problem with
throwing oil into
>the intake air lines. I see several smaler
hoses
>conecting into the air hose but don't have any idea if
>they
could be the sourse of oil, any help!
>
>Peter
***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 25 Feb 2002 20:29:33
EST
From:
NETM1NDER@aol.comSubject: Re: Team3S:
New bars: Handling too good?
A front strut tower brace from
(Tecperformance) will fix that. Ask Jim Or
Eirc Gross. They have
one.
Chris
95VR4(tecperformance.com)
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 25 Feb 2002 18:42:35
-0700
From: "Erik Petterson" <
erikpetterson@yahoo.com>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: --- FIXXED --- Emergency Brake Light Stays On ???
Ok well
somehow this weekend the brake light fixxed itself. It's been doing
it
for about a month and a half but I went on a trip this weekend and drove
for
like 300 miles straight. And then took it on a couple of bumpy
dirt
roads. Somewhere along the line it fixxed itself. Also where
I went was
below freezing during the night time so maybe that had something
to do with
it???
Probably something to do with the switch, but I'm not
gonna touch it unless
it starts up again.
Thanks for the help
though,
- -Erik
91 Stealth
- ----- Original Message
-----
From: "dakken" <
dougusmagnus@attbi.com>
To: "Erik
Petterson" <
erikpetterson@yahoo.com>; "Stealth
List"
<
Team3S@stealth-3000gt.st>
Sent:
Friday, February 22, 2002 9:26 PM
Subject: Re: Team3S: Emergency Brake Light
Stays On ???
> In general, you will have a higher voltage reading in
the morning because
> your battery is cold. Cold batteries have a
lower voltage reading so your
> car thinks that it has to recharge the
battery. To do this, it will
> increase the power coming from your
alternator. When your battery get up
to
> normal operating
temperature, and it is fully charged, then your voltage
> reading will
drop back to normal or 12.5 volts for your car. This is all
>
normal.
>
> As for your brake light, you should check something
simple first before
you
> start replacing things. Check your
parking brake switch. See if it is
> sticking or if there is any goo
in it that might make it stick or disrupt
an
> electrical
connection. I saved $75 when I just took apart my
cruise
control
> main switch and cleaned the internal contacts instead
of replacing it like
> the dealer said.
>
>
>
Doug
> 92 Stealth RT TT
>
>
> > Yes, yes, yes I
already checked the brake fluid level and it's perfect.
I
> >
searched through the archives and did my homework but could not find a
>
> similar post. It seems to be related to the car having more "juice"
in
> the
> > mornings.... Anyone know why I would get a
13.5 volt reading in the
> morning
> > and then it slowly goes
down during the day to around 12.5 and then
that's
> > when the
brake light goes off and it will stay at that reading all day
>
long.
> > ????? (seems like it charges itself a little at
night?)
> >
> > Is it hard to change the ebrake cable/assembly
out?
> >
> > Any help is appreciated,
> >
>
> Thanks,
> > -Erik
> > 91 Stealth
***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 25 Feb 2002 20:05:24
-0600
From: "
merritt@cedar-rapids.net" <
merritt@cedar-rapids.net>
Subject:
Team3S: The $50 Iowa mod.
Last week, the Cedar Rapids, Iowa, speed shop
Fast and Furious did the "free horsepower" mod to my 92 Eagle Talon TSi AWD
turbo. This is a completely bone stock Talon with 115,000 miles and Blizzak snow
tires, onto which F&F executed the RRE "free mods" (free, plus $50 labor, of
course).
Today, we had a chance to do a baseline check to see how we're
doing. Here are the results of four consecutive passes on a
G-Tech:
1. 13.93 @ 101.8
2. 14.39 @ 96.1
3. 14.05
@ 99.1
4. 13.78 @ 104.2
That's with a pro drag racer driving and
launching, smoking all four wheels. I couldn't possibly launch a car like that.
I've been in the car when Trent Durham, the owner of F&F, did such a launch,
and I'm not sure my neck can take the snap.
I am a road racer/rally
driver, not a drag racer, but this is how we are going to judge all future mods.
Trent tells me he has a few more interesting mods to make as we shoot for low
13s next.
He has cast his evil eye on my 3000GT VR4 and says he can
easily get it into the 12s, maybe the high 11s with a little fiddling and proper
driving. I dunno about all this juvenile drag racing hero driving crap. But if
he can get my stock Talon into the 13s with a $50 mod, I am all for it. It sure
gets up to where I want to go -- 100+ on gravel -- pretty dang quick now, and
it's not a peaky as it was.
But into the 11s on my VR4? Holy shit.
C'mon out Eastern Iowans - let's not let this guy get away.
Rich
94 3000GT VR4 TT AWD
92 Talon TSi AWD turbo
***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
End of Team3S: 3000GT &
Stealth V1
#764
***************************************