Team3S: 3000GT & Stealth Sunday, February 24
2002 Volume 01 : Number
763
----------------------------------------------------------------------
Date:
Sat, 23 Feb 2002 18:49:36 -0600
From: "xwing" <
xwing@wi.rr.com>
Subject: Team3S: Re:
All-Wheel Steering advice
Phil:
That was a GREAT explanation of Mitsu
AWS, and interesting diagrams.
Thanks!
Jack T.
From: "Philip V.
Glazatov" <
gphilip@umich.edu> I
made the new pics of the AWS and the Non-AWS cars and Forrest
posted
them
> on the Team3S website and made an animation (thanks,
Forrest!)
>
www.Team3S.com/Images/large-radius-non-aws.gif>
www.Team3S.com/Images/large-radius-aws.gif>
animation:
www.Team3S.com/Images/aws-vs-non-aws-opt.gif>
my first attempt:
>
www.speedtoys.com/~dschilberg/cars/Non-AWS.gif>
www.speedtoys.com/~dschilberg/cars/AWS.gif>
I exaggerated all the angles about 3-5 times to make them noticeable and
I
> assumed large turning radius, which is a realistic assumption because
at
> 30+ MPH the turning radius is indeed large in comparison to the size
of
the car.
> STIM pages which explain the whole operation:
>
http://www.team3s.com/STIM91/Images/tim_19b-02.gif>
http://www.team3s.com/STIM91/Images/tim_19b-05.gif>
http://www.team3s.com/STIM91/Images/tim_19b-06.gif>
http://www.team3s.com/STIM91/Images/tim_19b-07.gif>
http://www.team3s.com/STIM91/Images/tim_19b-11.gif>
The slip angles are functions of the lateral force, which is basically
the
> same for AWS and FWS cars after they enter a turn. At steady turning
the
> lateral force is the primary factor. It generates the slip
angles.
> Therefore the slip angles at steady turning will also be the
same.
> Since the rear wheels of a AWS car are turned in by 1.5 degrees
WRT car's
> body, and the slip angles are the same, the car's body will be
turned out
> by 1.5 degrees more (less yaw!).
> The front wheels
have to be turned in by 1.5 more WRT car's body in order
> for the car to
follow the same trajectory. You have to work your steering
> wheel more on
an AWS car to make a turn.
> In the absolute coordinates (not the car's
coordinates though), the front
> wheels are turned at the same angle and
the rear wheels are turned at the
> same angle, but the car's body is
turned towards the outside of the turn
by
> 1.5 degrees more. The rear
wheels are following a smaller radius, whereas
> the font wheels are
following the larger one. This results in a smaller
yaw
> angle, which
is good because it takes time and lateral force to change
yaw.
> Yaw is
waste.
> The AWS has an advantage over the FWS only during the transient
phases of
> maneuvers - the entrance into the turn and the exit out of it.
You start
> turning earlier because all the wheels engage and start
carrying the
> lateral load simultaneously. In the middle of the turn,
when the transient
> phase is over, both cars will have the same slip
angles because at steady
> state they are dictated by the lateral
centrifugal forces on each axle.
> When you exit the turn all you have to
do is straighten the steering wheel
> and you are going straight! No
fishtailing required.
> The benefit of the AWS in changing lanes faster is
obvious - you do not
> need to rotate your whole car right, for example,
to move to the right
> lane. Turning all the wheels right is enough. Less
yaw again!
> Philip
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Sat, 23 Feb 2002 19:24:00
-0600
From: "john adams" <
johnqadamsiii@yahoo.com>
Subject:
Team3S: In search of... fender, door
Hello list,
Had a bit
of a "run-in" with a flatbed truck and managed to
mangle (quite easily) my
passenger front fender and door,
not to mention front turn lens and barely
managed to scrape
the front body piece that wraps aroud to meet the
fender.
If anyone has either of those, and especially a door
and
fender, please let me know -- a dark green color would be
best.
thanks,
john "slightly mangled in dallas"
***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Sat, 23 Feb 2002 21:19:18
-0600
From: "
merritt@cedar-rapids.net" <
merritt@cedar-rapids.net>
Subject:
Team3S: New bars: Handling too good?
Tried out the new front and rear
sway bars real good, today. Sunny and bright, and the 100 mph sweepers beckoned.
She really sticks in there, even at 100+, with no trace of over or understeer.
Dead neutral, flat as a pancake, and solid as a rock. I am nowhere near the
car's cornering limit, but I am not likely to try to find the limit on public
roads and street tires. (If they catch me driving at 100 mph in Iowa, they throw
me under the jail.)
One lil ol problem: The response to steering input is
now instantaneous. The car tends to be a little darty, therefore, as I am trying
to re-learn the steering. All I have to do now is just THINK about changing
lanes and it's over there. Might be a little too fast, because it's tough to
make tiny corrections--such as edging away from the center line to stay centered
in the lane.
We have the front bar tightened down to the limit on the
adjuster. Whaddaya think -- loosen it up a little? Or look elsewhere? Adjust
alignment maybe? How do you slow down the steering just a
smidge?
Rich/slow old poop
94 VR4 w/front and rear sway bars, Eibachs,
Ground Control, lowered to the max, and camber plates. Alignment set to -2.5 deg
camber, +0.5 toe, maximum castor, front/ -1 deg camber, 0 toe
rear.
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Sat, 23 Feb 2002 22:46:49
-0500
From: "Philip V. Glazatov" <
gphilip@umich.edu>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: Re: All-Wheel Steering advice
Hey, thanks to everybody who paid
attention. I learned half of it myself
while I was trying to explain it.
LOL!
Philip
>Phil:
>That was a GREAT explanation of Mitsu
AWS, and interesting diagrams.
>Thanks!
>Jack T.
***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Sat, 23 Feb 2002 23:18:56
-0500
From: "Eric" <
griz600cc@home.com>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: New bars: Handling too good?
How much of a factor is it with only
a new rear sway bar vs. the car with
new front and rear sway
bars?
Eric
'93 Stealth ES
New struts/shocks
Eibachi lowering
springs
Cusco rear sway bar
- ----- Original Message -----
From: <
merritt@cedar-rapids.net>
To:
<
Team3S@stealth-3000gt.st>;
<
team3s@team3s.com>
Sent:
Saturday, February 23, 2002 10:19 PM
Subject: Team3S: New bars: Handling too
good?
> Tried out the new front and rear sway bars real good, today.
Sunny and
bright, and the 100 mph sweepers beckoned. She really sticks in
there, even
at 100+, with no trace of over or understeer. Dead neutral, flat
as a
pancake, and solid as a rock. I am nowhere near the car's cornering
limit,
but I am not likely to try to find the limit on public roads and
street
tires. (If they catch me driving at 100 mph in Iowa, they throw me
under the
jail.)
>
> One lil ol problem: The response to steering
input is now instantaneous.
The car tends to be a little darty, therefore, as
I am trying to re-learn
the steering. All I have to do now is just THINK
about changing lanes and
it's over there. Might be a little too fast, because
it's tough to make tiny
corrections--such as edging away from the center line
to stay centered in
the lane.
>
> We have the front bar tightened
down to the limit on the adjuster.
Whaddaya think -- loosen it up a little?
Or look elsewhere? Adjust alignment
maybe? How do you slow down the steering
just a smidge?
>
> Rich/slow old poop
> 94 VR4 w/front and
rear sway bars, Eibachs, Ground Control, lowered to the
max, and camber
plates. Alignment set to -2.5 deg camber, +0.5 toe, maximum
castor, front/ -1
deg camber, 0 toe rear.
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Sat, 23 Feb 2002 22:47:06
-0600
From: "
merritt@cedar-rapids.net" <
merritt@cedar-rapids.net>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: New bars: Handling too good?
At 11:18 PM 2/23/02 -0500, Eric
wrote:
>How much of a factor is it with only a new rear sway bar vs. the
car with
>new front and rear sway bars?
Dunno. I got both at
once.
Rich
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Sat, 23 Feb 2002 23:35:54
-0600
From: "Marvin Rubenking" <
mr54043@alltel.net>
Subject: RE:
Team3S: Car won't start, please help! Update, really confused now...
I do
not have a manual, but I know I need one. Would it have spark if
this
was bad? What would keep it from running? Does anyone have
the procedure
to check this, since I don't have a manual yet? Thanks in
advance!
Marv Rubenking, 91 SL
- -----Original
Message-----
From: Omar Malik [mailto:ojm@iname.com]
Sent: Saturday,
February 23, 2002 1:10 PM
To: Marvin Rubenking
Subject: RE: Team3S: Car
won't start, please help! Update, really
confused now...
Sounds like
it could be the crank angle sensor.. i've seen the exact same
symptoms
before. Pretty easy to check on the 91 and 92s.. sticks out the
left side of
the rear valve cover where the intake cam is. Don't know if you
have a
service manual or not.. but there's a procedure in there to check
it.
Omar 92 r/t
- -----Original Message-----
From:
owner-team3s@team3s.com
[mailto:owner-team3s@team3s.com]On Behalf
Of Marvin Rubenking
Sent:
Friday, February 22, 2002 11:49 PM
To:
Team3S@stealth-3000gt.stSubject:
RE: Team3S: Car won't start, please help! Update, really
confused
now...
91 GT SL,
Still Won't Start, turns over excellent.
Fuel Pump
is OK.
Fuel Filter is OK.
Fuel Pressure Regulating valve is OK.
Good
spark on all three front cylinders, new plugs and wires all around.
Haven't
pulled the plenum again to check spark and compression on the back
cylinders,
I am assuming since the front looks so good, no need.
Good compression on
front cylinders.
When front plugs are pulled, they appear to be wet with
fuel, Injectors
working??? Assuming so, not sure.
Checked timing via marks
per procedure on website, looks good.
What else can cause this thing not
to start??? Minimal knowledge here,
please help!
What happens
when the ECU fails? What happens when the Capacitors in the
ECU
fail? And how do you get the ECU out of that hole???
Thanks in
Advance.
Marv Rubenking
91 SL, Pearl White
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Sat, 23 Feb 2002 23:13:47
-0700
From: Wayne <
whietala@prodigy.net>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: New bars: Handling too good?
Eric,
Rich is talking about SWAY
bars, what you have is a STRUT bar.
2 different animals
W
At
10:47 PM 2/23/02 -0600,
merritt@cedar-rapids.net
wrote:
>At 11:18 PM 2/23/02 -0500, Eric wrote:
> >How much of a
factor is it with only a new rear sway bar vs. the car with
> >new
front and rear sway bars?
>
>Dunno. I got both at
once.
>Rich
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Sun, 24 Feb 2002 11:54:16
-0500
From: "Jeff VanOrsdal" <
jeffv@1nce.com>
Subject: Team3S: Yet
another wheel fitment question
I have checked the archive and found
nothing regarding this wheel. So I'll
ask here. Does anyone know
if the 18x8 40mm offset Konig Vilian will fit a
1st gen TT? A friend of
mine has found a set for a great deal but hasn't
been able to find out if
they'll fit his car. Thanks.
Jeff V.
1991 Stealth ESX Twin Turbo
(currently DOA)
jeffv@1nce.com*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Sun, 24 Feb 2002 12:53:53
-0500
From: "Omar Malik" <
ojm@iname.com>
Subject: RE: Team3S: Car
won't start, please help! Update, really confused now...
Here's a couple
rips from the manual regarding the CAS
http://www.groundzeroperformance.com/omar/cas001.gifhttp://www.groundzeroperformance.com/omar/cas002.gifhttp://www.groundzeroperformance.com/omar/cas003.gifI've
seen these symptoms before with a friends car.. he would get fuel and
spark,
but it just wouldnt crank over. Turned out being the crank angle
sensor. We
tried everything to try and get the car to run. In the end we ran
out of gas
from all the cranking we did. I guess the best way to check is if
you get a
pulse type signal with the car in the "on" position, but the
engine not
running. check out cas001.gif for that procedure.
Omar
-
-----Original Message-----
From:
owner-team3s@team3s.com
[mailto:owner-team3s@team3s.com]On Behalf
Of Marvin Rubenking
Sent:
Sunday, February 24, 2002 12:36 AM
To: Omar Malik;
Team3S@stealth-3000gt.stSubject:
RE: Team3S: Car won't start, please help! Update, really
confused
now...
I do not have a manual, but I know I need one. Would it have
spark if this
was bad? What would keep it from running? Does
anyone have the procedure
to check this, since I don't have a manual
yet? Thanks in advance!
Marv Rubenking, 91 SL
-
-----Original Message-----
From: Omar Malik [mailto:ojm@iname.com]
Sent:
Saturday, February 23, 2002 1:10 PM
To: Marvin Rubenking
Subject: RE:
Team3S: Car won't start, please help! Update, really
confused
now...
Sounds like it could be the crank angle sensor.. i've seen the
exact same
symptoms before. Pretty easy to check on the 91 and 92s.. sticks
out the
left side of the rear valve cover where the intake cam is. Don't know
if you
have a service manual or not.. but there's a procedure in there to
check it.
Omar 92 r/t
- -----Original Message-----
From:
owner-team3s@team3s.com
[mailto:owner-team3s@team3s.com]On Behalf
Of Marvin Rubenking
Sent:
Friday, February 22, 2002 11:49 PM
To:
Team3S@stealth-3000gt.stSubject:
RE: Team3S: Car won't start, please help! Update, really
confused
now...
91 GT SL,
Still Won't Start, turns over excellent.
Fuel Pump
is OK.
Fuel Filter is OK.
Fuel Pressure Regulating valve is OK.
Good
spark on all three front cylinders, new plugs and wires all around.
Haven't
pulled the plenum again to check spark and compression on the back
cylinders,
I am assuming since the front looks so good, no need.
Good compression on
front cylinders.
When front plugs are pulled, they appear to be wet with
fuel, Injectors
working??? Assuming so, not sure.
Checked timing via marks
per procedure on website, looks good.
What else can cause this thing not
to start??? Minimal knowledge here,
please help!
What happens
when the ECU fails? What happens when the Capacitors in the
ECU
fail? And how do you get the ECU out of that hole???
Thanks in
Advance.
Marv Rubenking
91 SL, Pearl White
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Sun, 24 Feb 2002 11:12:05
-0700
From: "Floyd, Jim" <
Jim_Floyd@maxtor.com>
Subject: RE:
Team3S: New bars: Handling too good?
Eric,
When I had only the
rear strut and anti-sway bar the car really over
steered - it was too twitchy
- dangerous.
- -----Original Message-----
From: Eric
[mailto:griz600cc@home.com]
Sent: Saturday, February 23, 2002 9:19 PM
To:
Team 3S
Subject: Re: Team3S: New bars: Handling too good?
How much
of a factor is it with only a new rear sway bar vs. the car with
new front
and rear sway bars?
Eric
'93 Stealth ES
New
struts/shocks
Eibachi lowering springs
Cusco rear sway bar
- -----
Original Message -----
From: <
merritt@cedar-rapids.net>
To:
<
Team3S@stealth-3000gt.st>;
<
team3s@team3s.com>
Sent:
Saturday, February 23, 2002 10:19 PM
Subject: Team3S: New bars: Handling too
good?
> Tried out the new front and rear sway bars real good, today.
Sunny and
bright, and the 100 mph sweepers beckoned. She really sticks in
there, even
at 100+, with no trace of over or understeer. Dead neutral, flat
as a
pancake, and solid as a rock. I am nowhere near the car's cornering
limit,
but I am not likely to try to find the limit on public roads and
street
tires. (If they catch me driving at 100 mph in Iowa, they throw me
under the
jail.)
>
> One lil ol problem: The response to steering
input is now instantaneous.
The car tends to be a little darty, therefore, as
I am trying to re-learn
the steering. All I have to do now is just THINK
about changing lanes and
it's over there. Might be a little too fast, because
it's tough to make tiny
corrections--such as edging away from the center line
to stay centered in
the lane.
>
> We have the front bar tightened
down to the limit on the adjuster.
Whaddaya think -- loosen it up a little?
Or look elsewhere? Adjust alignment
maybe? How do you slow down the steering
just a smidge?
>
> Rich/slow old poop
> 94 VR4 w/front and
rear sway bars, Eibachs, Ground Control, lowered to the
max, and camber
plates. Alignment set to -2.5 deg camber, +0.5 toe, maximum
castor, front/ -1
deg camber, 0 toe rear.
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Sun, 24 Feb 2002 13:48:37
-0500
From: "Michael Bulaon" <
profilevr4@nj.rr.com>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: Turbo oil feed line
Sorry, a little lost as to what you are
actually doing. Not sure if you are
doing just a turbo upgrade. If you are
simply talking about putting the A/C
belt back on, then no you do not neet
any special tool such as the
tensioner pulley socket
wrench.
You'll only need it if you are doing work that requires removal
of the
timing belt. That tool is used to re-tension the timing
belt.
Michael Bulaon
- ----- Original Message -----
From:
"menalteed" <
menalteed@yahoo.com>
To: <
Team3S@stealth-3000gt.st>
Cc:
<
Team3S@stealth-3000gt.st>
Sent:
Saturday, February 23, 2002 3:55 PM
Subject: Team3S: Turbo oil feed
line
> My front turbo is off, I'm waiting for gaskets in the
>
mail and now The dreaded oil feed line is next on my
> task list. 92 RT TT
Stealth. The question is this, It
> looks like a lot of work! but do I
realy need a
> tensioner pully socket wrench, seems like just
puting
> the Air conditioner compressor back on the bracket and
>
puting the belt on and tight is good enough, by golly
> the the book range
is 12lbs difference and if I get
> it back aprox to what I found it
at I should be good
> enough. Now remember I want to get this back on
the
> road without going further in the hole. My new turbos
> are
13g's.
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Sun, 24 Feb 2002 12:50:50
-0800
From: "fastmax" <
fastmax@cox.net>
Subject: Re: Team3S:
Yet another wheel fitment question
With 18" rims any clearance problems
would probably be with the
spokes --- hub centric spacers would solve any
problems there.
There should be no issue with the rears and a set of front
spacers
are probably $100 or
less.
Jim
Berry
===========================================
- ----- Original
Message -----
From: "Jeff VanOrsdal" <
jeffv@1nce.com>
To: "Team3s Tech List"
<
Team3s@stealth-3000gt.st>
Sent:
Sunday, February 24, 2002 8:54 AM
Subject: Team3S: Yet another wheel fitment
question
> I have checked the archive and found nothing regarding this
wheel. So I'll
> ask here. Does anyone know if the 18x8 40mm
offset Konig Vilian will fit a
> 1st gen TT? A friend of mine has
found a set for a great deal but hasn't
> been able to find out if they'll
fit his car. Thanks.
>
> Jeff V.
> 1991 Stealth ESX
Twin Turbo (currently DOA)
>
jeffv@1nce.com*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Sun, 24 Feb 2002 14:55:11
-0600
From: "
merritt@cedar-rapids.net" <
merritt@cedar-rapids.net>
Subject:
Team3S: 91 v 94
Just drove my daughter's 91 Stealth this morning, so I
was able to compare a few things. Her car has 44K miles, a DSBC, no cats, Borla,
Eibach springs and some sort of lowering kit (not Ground Control). It is a very
nice street car, sounds good, drives good, and looks very good.
My 94 is
stiff, loud, and not a very good street car any more, what with the GC, Eibachs,
camber plates, sway bars, lowered to the max, Stillen, and very loud custom cat
back. My car does not look as good -- it just looks
mean.
Comparisons:
Love the five speed.
I think 2nd gear in a
5 speed would be more useful for open tracking, cuz it's much longer than 2nd in
the six speed. I can think of several corners where I wish I had such a gear. It
also helps explain why the 1st gens don't have overheating problems, because
with the longer 2nd gear the car is not into the turbos as much coming out of
slower turns. Something to consider for folks who are looking for a car in which
to go open tracking. (Chuck: you have both. What do you think about 5 spd v 6
spd?)
Better looking.
I hate to admit it, but a 91 red Stealth is
much better looking than a black 94 VR4. Geez, that's a gorgeous car! And not a
scratch on it.
Not faster.
It seems to me that my stock engined
94 is every bit as fast -- if not faster -- than her boost controlled car. I
noticed that when I ran with the Willises at Heartland Park - both their boost
controlled cars had an edge on me on the straights, but it was nothing to write
home about. My car has Alamo intercoolers, K&N and catback (lately a Stillen
downpipe, but not at Heartland). I wonder if that's enough on a road
course? I suspect that a boost controller is vitally important to drag
racers, because it gives them a half-second or so in the 1/4, but it doesn't
seem to mean diddly for road racers. I have a DSBC and a BOV ready to go
in, so we'll see how much difference there is then.
Suspension mods
really work.
I took some of my 100 mph sweepers in the 91, and I can see the
huge difference that suspension mods provide. Compared to the VR4, the Stealth
now feels a little unstable, has some body roll, and makes me a little nervous
at the same speeds where the 94 just cruises through sedately. Still, it ripped
through the sweepers at 100+ without too much fuss.
Nice to have multiple
cars to compare, eh?
By the bye, if anyone is interested, she
might be selling the Stealth soon (she's preggers, needs a family car). I
suggested they sell their Cobra SVT instead, but nobody listens to Dad.
Rich/slow old poop/94 VR4
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Sun, 24 Feb 2002 14:55:11
-0600
From: "
merritt@cedar-rapids.net" <
merritt@cedar-rapids.net>
Subject:
Team3S: 91 v 94
Just drove my daughter's 91 Stealth this morning, so I
was able to compare a few things. Her car has 44K miles, a DSBC, no cats, Borla,
Eibach springs and some sort of lowering kit (not Ground Control). It is a very
nice street car, sounds good, drives good, and looks very good.
My 94 is
stiff, loud, and not a very good street car any more, what with the GC, Eibachs,
camber plates, sway bars, lowered to the max, Stillen, and very loud custom cat
back. My car does not look as good -- it just looks
mean.
Comparisons:
Love the five speed.
I think 2nd gear in a
5 speed would be more useful for open tracking, cuz it's much longer than 2nd in
the six speed. I can think of several corners where I wish I had such a gear. It
also helps explain why the 1st gens don't have overheating problems, because
with the longer 2nd gear the car is not into the turbos as much coming out of
slower turns. Something to consider for folks who are looking for a car in which
to go open tracking. (Chuck: you have both. What do you think about 5 spd v 6
spd?)
Better looking.
I hate to admit it, but a 91 red Stealth is
much better looking than a black 94 VR4. Geez, that's a gorgeous car! And not a
scratch on it.
Not faster.
It seems to me that my stock engined
94 is every bit as fast -- if not faster -- than her boost controlled car. I
noticed that when I ran with the Willises at Heartland Park - both their boost
controlled cars had an edge on me on the straights, but it was nothing to write
home about. My car has Alamo intercoolers, K&N and catback (lately a Stillen
downpipe, but not at Heartland). I wonder if that's enough on a road
course? I suspect that a boost controller is vitally important to drag
racers, because it gives them a half-second or so in the 1/4, but it doesn't
seem to mean diddly for road racers. I have a DSBC and a BOV ready to go
in, so we'll see how much difference there is then.
Suspension mods
really work.
I took some of my 100 mph sweepers in the 91, and I can see the
huge difference that suspension mods provide. Compared to the VR4, the Stealth
now feels a little unstable, has some body roll, and makes me a little nervous
at the same speeds where the 94 just cruises through sedately. Still, it ripped
through the sweepers at 100+ without too much fuss.
Nice to have multiple
cars to compare, eh?
By the bye, if anyone is interested, she
might be selling the Stealth soon (she's preggers, needs a family car). I
suggested they sell their Cobra SVT instead, but nobody listens to Dad.
Rich/slow old poop/94 VR4
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Sun, 24 Feb 2002 13:42:06
-0800
From: "fastmax" <
fastmax@cox.net>
Subject: Re: Team3S: 91
v 94
- ----- Original Message -----
From: <
merritt@cedar-rapids.net>
>
Love the five speed.
> I think 2nd gear in a 5 speed would be more useful
for open tracking, cuz it's much longer than 2nd in the six speed. I can
think
of >several corners where I wish I had such a gear. It also helps
explain why the 1st gens don't have overheating problems, because
with
>the longer 2nd gear the car is not into the turbos as much coming out of
slower turns
I not sure what you mean here ---- There are always going to
be a couple of corners where you wish you could pull just 5 more mph.
As I
recall your overheat problems were 2nd gear only/usually. In my case [ 93
Stealth TT ] it seems like I spend most of my time in
3rd, which I consider
an almost ideal gear for road
event.
===============================================================================================
>I
suspect that a boost controller is vitally important to drag racers, because it
gives them a half-second or so in the 1/4, but it
doesn't >seem to mean
diddly for road racers.
Boost controller = horsepower ---- what you're
saying is HP doesn't count for much !!! Wrong answer --- for a point and shoot
driver
like me horsepower, is the holy grail. If I only had another 200 hp I
could rule the
world.
=================================================================================================
>
Suspension mods really work.
I've installed so many suspension mods over
so much time I don't know what a stock setup feels like anymore, it would be
interesting
to have both available at the
track.
Jim
Berry
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Sun, 24 Feb 2002 13:42:06
-0800
From: "fastmax" <
fastmax@cox.net>
Subject: Re: Team3S: 91
v 94
- ----- Original Message -----
From: <
merritt@cedar-rapids.net>
>
Love the five speed.
> I think 2nd gear in a 5 speed would be more useful
for open tracking, cuz it's much longer than 2nd in the six speed. I can
think
of >several corners where I wish I had such a gear. It also helps
explain why the 1st gens don't have overheating problems, because
with
>the longer 2nd gear the car is not into the turbos as much coming out of
slower turns
I not sure what you mean here ---- There are always going to
be a couple of corners where you wish you could pull just 5 more mph.
As I
recall your overheat problems were 2nd gear only/usually. In my case [ 93
Stealth TT ] it seems like I spend most of my time in
3rd, which I consider
an almost ideal gear for road
event.
===============================================================================================
>I
suspect that a boost controller is vitally important to drag racers, because it
gives them a half-second or so in the 1/4, but it
doesn't >seem to mean
diddly for road racers.
Boost controller = horsepower ---- what you're
saying is HP doesn't count for much !!! Wrong answer --- for a point and shoot
driver
like me horsepower, is the holy grail. If I only had another 200 hp I
could rule the
world.
=================================================================================================
>
Suspension mods really work.
I've installed so many suspension mods over
so much time I don't know what a stock setup feels like anymore, it would be
interesting
to have both available at the
track.
Jim
Berry
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Sun, 24 Feb 2002 15:53:40
-0600
From: "
merritt@cedar-rapids.net" <
merritt@cedar-rapids.net>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: 91 v 94
In the slower, 90-deg corners where 2nd is too low
and 3rd too high, is where I mean. There is one turn at RA -- Canada Corner --
where it's too fast for 2nd and too slow for 3rd.
In a six speed, 2nd
gear is just the wrong ratio. At a track like Heartland Park, where you use 2nd
a lot (turns 1, 2, 6, 12 and 16), we are on the turbos a lot, and it heats up.
At Road America, where you don't use 2nd at all, the car has no problems.
Rich/slow old poop
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Sun, 24 Feb 2002 15:09:21
-0800
From: "dakken" <
dougusmagnus@attbi.com>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: New bars: Handling too good?
One thing you can do to reduce
the amount of dartiness is to increase your
toe-in. Just go to any
alignment shop and ask for another degree of toe-in
on your front
wheels. Shouldn't cost more than $50.
You can do it yourself in
about 15 minutes but you won't be able to measure
the amount that you change
it by. To do this just loosen the lock nut on
your steering tie rod at
the wheel on both front wheels. Then turn the tie
rod about half to a
full turn on each side in the appropriate direction to
turn both wheels
towards each other. Then tighten the lock nuts back down.
Drive around
the block afterwards to see if you did it right. Your car
should not
pull to either side and should drive streight with your hands off
the wheel
on a level surface. If you really screw it up then you will have
to
shell out the money to an alignment shop for your toe in to be
adjusted.
Doug
92 Stealth RT TT
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Sun, 24 Feb 2002 17:47:48
-0600
From: "
merritt@cedar-rapids.net" <
merritt@cedar-rapids.net>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: New bars: Handling too good?
When you say increase, does that
mean to go from the present +0.5 to +1.5 or to -0.5? I never know which way
"increase" means, because when I increase my camber we go more
negative.
Rich
At 03:09 PM 2/24/02 -0800, dakken wrote:
>One
thing you can do to reduce the amount of dartiness is to increase
your
>toe-in. Just go to any alignment shop and ask for another
degree of toe-in
>on your front wheels. Shouldn't cost more than
$50.
>
>
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Sun, 24 Feb 2002 17:47:48
-0600
From: "
merritt@cedar-rapids.net" <
merritt@cedar-rapids.net>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: New bars: Handling too good?
When you say increase, does that
mean to go from the present +0.5 to +1.5 or to -0.5? I never know which way
"increase" means, because when I increase my camber we go more
negative.
Rich
At 03:09 PM 2/24/02 -0800, dakken wrote:
>One
thing you can do to reduce the amount of dartiness is to increase
your
>toe-in. Just go to any alignment shop and ask for another
degree of toe-in
>on your front wheels. Shouldn't cost more than
$50.
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Sun, 24 Feb 2002 17:29:43
-0800
From: "P N Sankarshanan" <
yoss@aracnet.com>
Subject: Re: Team3S:
High Pitch Whistle revisited
Folks:
This is
with respect to high-pitch whistle noise I hear when I get off
boost, and
sometimes when boost is applied. This all happens only on the
negative
side of the stock boost gauge reading, for what it's
worth.
I checked the Y-pipe (at the 'Y'; I couldn't
yank the darn thing at the
Intake Plenum side) and both legs of the 'Y' are
bone-dry. When I changed the
blow-off valve, the intake hose (from the
y-pipe) to the valve was also dry. I
haven't really looked at the
turbos to check for oil leaks yet. I will need to
get the car on a
stand to inspect it. I thought I would exhaust all checks
that I can
perform before I take the car to the mechanic.
Anything else I should check for?
Thanks!
- -sankar
- -----
Original Message -----
From: "menalteed" <
menalteed@yahoo.com>
To: "P N
Sankarshanan" <
yoss@aracnet.com>
Cc: "Team3S" <
Team3S@stealth-3000gt.st>
Sent:
Wednesday, February 20, 2002 9:45 PM
Subject: Re: Team3S:
> Make
sure you turbos are all right. Check to see if
> they are blowing oil.
Look into the Y pipe for oil!
> Then check back.
>
>
peter
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
End of Team3S: 3000GT &
Stealth V1
#763
***************************************
