Team3S: 3000GT & Stealth Thursday, February 21 2002
Volume 01 : Number
760
----------------------------------------------------------------------
Date:
Wed, 20 Feb 2002 21:45:13 -0800 (PST)
From: menalteed <
menalteed@yahoo.com>
Subject: Re:
Team3S:
Make sure you turbos are all right. Check to see if
they are
blowing oil. Look into the Y pipe for oil!
Then check
back.
peter
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 21 Feb 2002 01:11:28
-0500
From: "Darren Schilberg" <
dschilberg@pobox.com>
Subject:
Team3S: Gauges
For those of you who have put in aftermarket gauges ...
what is a good
recommendation for mechanical vs. electrical or what are some
of the
pros and cons? Also, what are the stock gauges using to measure
their
readings or which ones are what style?
- --Flash!
1995
VR-4
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 20 Feb 2002 23:37:24
-0700
From: "Erik Petterson" <
erikpetterson@yahoo.com>
Subject:
Team3S: Emergency Brake Light Stays On ???
Ok I have a problem with my
Emergency Brake light coming on. My car is 91
Stealth Base model
with an automatic. Here's the deal... When I start it
up in the
morning after it has been sitting all night, the E-brake light is
on. I
can drive it to work and it will still be on. Sometime during mid
day
while driving around it goes off and is off until the next morning.
I
don't use the E-brake at all since my car is an automatic.
Now what
I have also noticed is that when I start it in the morning the
Alternator
(voltage) gauge is 3 lines above the 12, close to the 14 mark.
While driving
around during the day it slowly decreses down to around the
first line above
the 12. Once it gets there is about the time the Brake
light goes
away.
AND this all started after getting the car back from the
dealership when
they replaced the alternator.
Any thoughts as to what
this could be???
Also what lights are supposed to come on when you turn
the key to the "On"
position (just before starting it). The battery,
e-brake, coolant level,
and the check engine and seatbelt lights are on on
mine --is this normal?
The reason I asked is because when the alternator was
dying the e-brake
light and coolant and battery light were all on.
Ok
sorry if i have confused the heck out of you guys.
Erik,
- -91
Stealth
P.S. I am going on a long trip this weekend and would like
to get this
fixxed beforehand. THANKS !
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 20 Feb 2002 22:00:13
-0500
From: Anthony Melillo <
anthonymelillo3@comcast.net>
Subject:
Team3S: online source for factory parts
I need to get a new plastic
shroud that goes around the instrument panel, and the glass covers from the fog
lights on my 1997 VR-4,
and was wondering if anyone knew of an online source
for these parts ?
I no longer have access to the local dealer, so I can't
buy it locally, without driving 45 minutes.
Thanks all
Anthony
Melillo
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 21 Feb 2002 08:40:43
-0500
From: "Darren Schilberg" <
dschilberg@pobox.com>
Subject: RE:
Team3S: Gauges
This is what I found in the archives.
Actually ...
reading the archives the boost was preferred to be elect
since mech requires
a long tube from engine to gauge. Electrical
requires a tube from
engine to sender unit and then wires from there
through the firewall to the
gauge. Given the lack of room up there I
think the wires would be
easier to work with but thanks. I did find out
this:
"Mechanical
water temp can be connected right next to the stock sensors.
There is an
extra plug in the housing next to the water temp sensors for
the stock gauge
and ECU."
"Mechanical oil pressure can be connected where stock oil
press. sensor
for stock gauge is located."
"The ECU does not use oil
pressure, so you can discard the stock sender
and mount your aftermarket
sender unit in this hole."
"As for the water temp probe, under the coil
pack there are two senders
for water temp. One is for relaying
information to the ECU and the
other one is for the stock gauge. But
there is also a third hole which
is capped from the factory. This you
can use for the water temp probe."
- --Flash!
1995 VR-4
-
-----Original Message-----
From:
owner-team3s@team3s.com
[mailto:owner-team3s@team3s.com] On Behalf
Of Darren Schilberg
Sent:
Thursday, February 21, 2002 01:11
To: 'Team3S'
Subject: Team3S:
Gauges
For those of you who have put in aftermarket gauges ... what is a
good
recommendation for mechanical vs. electrical or what are some of
the
pros and cons? Also, what are the stock gauges using to measure
their
readings or which ones are what style?
- --Flash!
1995
VR-4
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 21 Feb 2002 07:14:02
-0700
From: Wayne <
whietala@prodigy.net>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: Emergency Brake Light Stays On ???
Have you checked the brake
fluid reservoir to see if the fluid is low?
Wayne
At 11:37 PM
2/20/02 -0700, Erik Petterson wrote:
>Ok I have a problem with my
Emergency Brake light coming on. My car is 91
>Stealth Base
model with an automatic. Here's the deal... When I start
it
>up in the morning after it has been sitting all night, the E-brake
light is
>on. I can drive it to work and it will still be on.
Sometime during mid
>day while driving around it goes off and is off until
the next morning. I
>don't use the E-brake at all since my car is an
automatic.
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 21 Feb 2002 07:39:39
-0800
From: "fastmax" <
fastmax@cox.net>
Subject: Re: Team3S:
Emergency Brake Light Stays On ???
Shouldn't be the issue --- the E brake
is strictly mechanical, look at the manual,
there has to be a switch and
quite probably an adjustment.
Jim Berry
===============================================
- -----
Original Message -----
From: "Wayne" <
whietala@prodigy.net>
> Have
you checked the brake fluid reservoir to see if the fluid is
low?
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 21 Feb 2002 10:41:13
-0500
From: "Peter Howey" <
stimpy@freedomdrivingaids.com>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Emergency Brake Light Stays On ???
Mine started doing the
same thing since I got it out of storage. It only
seems to do it on
cold mornings, so I just figured the switch was sticking.
I have M/T, so I do
use the brake.
Cheers,
Peter M. Howey
Manager of Information
Systems
http://www.freedomgroupllc.comFreedom
Group, LLC
901 Salzburg Ave.
Bay City, MI 48706
989-895-9743
x12
989-895-9722 FAX
- ----- Original Message -----
From: "fastmax"
<
fastmax@cox.net>
To: <
Team3S@stealth-3000gt.st>; "Wayne"
<
whietala@prodigy.net>
Sent:
Thursday, February 21, 2002 10:39 AM
Subject: Re: Team3S: Emergency Brake
Light Stays On ???
Shouldn't be the issue --- the E brake is strictly
mechanical, look at the
manual,
there has to be a switch and quite
probably an adjustment.
Jim
Berry
===============================================
- ----- Original
Message -----
From: "Wayne" <
whietala@prodigy.net>
> Have
you checked the brake fluid reservoir to see if the fluid is
low?
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 21 Feb 2002 08:04:00
-0800
From: "fastmax" <
fastmax@cox.net>
Subject: Re: Team3S:
Gauges
Depends on finances ---- I have, ready to install, two HKS peak
hold EGT gauges
and a peak hold HKS boost gauge. The peak hold feature is
important in racing
applications because of your inability to monitor the
readings adequately while
driving. I wouldn't mind a peak hold water and some
kind of low oil pressure
indicator.
Electrical are more convienent
but generally more expensive. I have a mechenical
vacuum/boost gauge on the A
piller and it was not a problem to install --- it uses
1/8" hard plastic
tubing that is easy to route through the
firewall.
Jim
Berry
========================================================
- -----
Original Message -----
From: "Darren Schilberg" <
dschilberg@pobox.com>
> For
those of you who have put in aftermarket gauges ... what is a good
>
recommendation for mechanical vs. electrical or what are some of the
>
pros and cons? Also, what are the stock gauges using to measure
their
> readings or which ones are what style?
***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 21 Feb 2002 09:09:51
-0700
From: "Floyd, Jim" <
Jim_Floyd@maxtor.com>
Subject: RE:
Team3S: HPDE-track report
Now get the strut tower bars front and
back.
You will really be impressed.
- -----Original
Message-----
From:
merritt@cedar-rapids.net
[mailto:merritt@cedar-rapids.net]
Sent: Wednesday, February 20, 2002 9:35
PM
To: Ann Koch; Team3S
Subject: Re: Team3S: HPDE-track
report
>The first instructor who rode with me commented on my Big
Reds. At the
>end of the run, he added that my car had way too much
body roll and I
>really needed to stiffen the suspension (ECS was
engaged) or add
>anti-sway bars or both to help match the potential of the
brakes. So
>I'm dying to hear from Rich and Flash about the
difference anti-sway
>bars make.
It was still wet today, but it
dried off enough to try those 100 mph
sweepers near my house. Holy mackeral!
The car felt stable and flat through
those turns, and I wasn't even pushing
it at 100. Previously, I thought 100
mph was about as fast as I cared to go
through there (it IS a public road,
after all), but the car was saying,
"c'mon Richie, let's go a little
faster!" That sumbitch is going to get me
throwed in jail one of these days.
I don't know exactly how much they
help, but they sure make a difference.
Rich/slow old poop/94 VR4 with
sway bars.
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 21 Feb 2002 09:15:31
-0700
From: "Floyd, Jim" <
Jim_Floyd@maxtor.com>
Subject: RE:
Team3S: Emergency Brake Light Stays On ???
Check your brake fluid
level.
- -----Original Message-----
From: Erik Petterson
[mailto:erikpetterson@yahoo.com]
Sent: Wednesday, February 20, 2002 11:37
PM
To: Stealth List
Subject: Team3S: Emergency Brake Light Stays On
???
Ok I have a problem with my Emergency Brake light coming on. My
car is 91
Stealth Base model with an automatic. Here's the
deal... When I start it
up in the morning after it has been sitting all
night, the E-brake light is
on. I can drive it to work and it will
still be on. Sometime during mid
day while driving around it goes off
and is off until the next morning. I
don't use the E-brake at all since
my car is an automatic.
Now what I have also noticed is that when I start
it in the morning the
Alternator (voltage) gauge is 3 lines above the 12,
close to the 14 mark.
While driving around during the day it slowly decreses
down to around the
first line above the 12. Once it gets there is about
the time the Brake
light goes away.
AND this all started after
getting the car back from the dealership when
they replaced the
alternator.
Any thoughts as to what this could be???
Also what
lights are supposed to come on when you turn the key to the "On"
position
(just before starting it). The battery, e-brake, coolant level,
and the
check engine and seatbelt lights are on on mine --is this normal?
The reason
I asked is because when the alternator was dying the e-brake
light and
coolant and battery light were all on.
Ok sorry if i have confused the
heck out of you guys.
Erik,
- -91 Stealth
P.S. I am going
on a long trip this weekend and would like to get this
fixxed
beforehand. THANKS !
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 21 Feb 2002 10:25:54
-0600
From: "
merritt@cedar-rapids.net" <
merritt@cedar-rapids.net>
Subject:
Team3S: Strut bars next?
I don't know how much of this flat cornering I
can take.
At 09:09 AM 2/21/02 -0700, Floyd, Jim wrote:
>
>
Now get the strut tower bars front and back.
> You will really be
impressed.
>
I stopped off at a speed shop in Cedar Rapids yesterday,
where one of my ROWG buddies is having his $100,000 Camaro set up for road
racing. He's essentially getting a Trans-Am car in a stock body, but it will be
illegal for anything other than open tracking (supercharged, NOS, 600+ hp, etc.
doesn't fit anywhere) Yeah, I asked him why he doesn't just buy an ex-TransAm
car. Must be nice to have more money than brains.
In any case, the shop
has scales and a software program for setting up the suspension. Apparently, you
plug in sway bar size and spring rates, and then sit in the car. It measures
corner weights and tells the mechanic how to adjust the suspension (assuming you
have the GC adjustable suspension on all four corners, which I do).
I
dunno if that's next on the agenda or not. Or maybe I should go hit a track
somewhere and see how it handles first.
Any thoughts,
gang?
Rich/slow old poop/94 VR4
Ground Control adjustable suspension,
Eibachs, camber plates, wheel spacers, sway bars.
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 21 Feb 2002 09:36:19
-0700
From: "Floyd, Jim" <
Jim_Floyd@maxtor.com>
Subject:
Team3S: RE: Strut bars next?
All you can get, trust me.
I guess
you already did, you took my check. : )
I found the strut bars gave
more "precision" to the steering.
- -----Original Message-----
From:
merritt@cedar-rapids.net
[mailto:merritt@cedar-rapids.net]
Sent: Thursday, February 21, 2002 9:26
AM
To: Floyd, Jim; Team3S
Subject: Strut bars next?
I don't know
how much of this flat cornering I can take.
At 09:09 AM 2/21/02 -0700,
Floyd, Jim wrote:
>
> Now get the strut tower bars front and
back.
> You will really be impressed.
>
I stopped off at a speed
shop in Cedar Rapids yesterday, where one of my
ROWG buddies is having his
$100,000 Camaro set up for road racing. He's
essentially getting a Trans-Am
car in a stock body, but it will be illegal
for anything other than open
tracking (supercharged, NOS, 600+ hp, etc.
doesn't fit anywhere) Yeah, I
asked him why he doesn't just buy an
ex-TransAm car. Must be nice to have
more money than brains.
In any case, the shop has scales and a software
program for setting up the
suspension. Apparently, you plug in sway bar size
and spring rates, and then
sit in the car. It measures corner weights and
tells the mechanic how to
adjust the suspension (assuming you have the GC
adjustable suspension on all
four corners, which I do).
I dunno if
that's next on the agenda or not. Or maybe I should go hit a
track somewhere
and see how it handles first.
Any thoughts, gang?
Rich/slow old
poop/94 VR4
Ground Control adjustable suspension, Eibachs, camber plates,
wheel spacers,
sway bars.
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 21 Feb 2002 09:09:54
-0800
From: "Geddes, Brian J" <
brian.j.geddes@intel.com>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: Lightweight 17" wheels for a '94 VR-4
I've got a '94 VR-4, so
my stock wheels are 17". I'm running stock size
(245/45/17) tires, and
plan to stick with the same (17's are cheaper than
18's!). The Kosei K1
wheels I'm looking at are 7.5 inches wide. Would 245
tires fit okay on
a 7.5 inch wheel? It seems like this should be okay, but
I figure
someone else must've tried this at some point, so I'm looking to
learn from
other people's experience. :)
- - Brian
- -----Original
Message-----
From:
apedenko@attbi.com
[mailto:apedenko@attbi.com]
Sent: Wednesday, February 20, 2002 5:46 PM
To:
Geddes, Brian J
Cc:
team3s@team3s.comSubject: Re: Team3S:
Lightweight 17" wheels for a '94 VR-4
I know Fittipaldi (?) makes a good
set of 17x8 wheels
that clear the stock calipers and are pretty light. I
know it's somewhat apples and oranges, but i replaced
my 18" chromes
with these 17 inchers, and they are
_considerably_ lighter. I can get the
part number if
you want it. And they clear the stock calipers on a '95
VR4 (front and rear)
Alex.
> All -
>
> I
recently bent a rim on my VR-4. :( I'm looking at getting a
stock
> replacement (if you've got one for sale let me know!!), but I've
also been
> thinking this could be a good opportunity to get some lighter
wheels.
It's
> my understanding that a reduction in rotating mass can
make a pretty
> significant performance difference. I just got new
tires and want to keep
> the wheels as light as possible, so I want to
stick with 17" wheels.
>
> I know one of the main concerns
with aftermarket wheels is clearing the
> brake calipers, but what about
weight? I haven't been able to find any
> weight tolerance specs on
any of the wheels I've looked at...does anyone
> know how to go about
that?
>
> The two wheels that have caught my eye thus far
are the Kosei K1 Racing
> wheels and the SSR Competition wheels, both in
the dark finish (looks are
> somewhat of a factor!) and available on
TireRack.com. Anybody have any
> experience with either of
these? Also, what width of wheel should I be
> looking at? Any
suggestions on other wheels I should look at?
>
> Thanks,
> -
Brian
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 21 Feb 2002 09:19:34
-0800
From: "fastmax" <
fastmax@cox.net>
Subject: Re: Team3S:
Lightweight 17" wheels for a '94 VR-4
17 x 7½ are probably not
recommended --- tire rack had a chart showing
tire profile vs. wheel width.
You can make them fit but handling
performance would
suffer.
Jim
Berry
================================
- ----- Original Message
-----
From: "Geddes, Brian J" <
brian.j.geddes@intel.com>
>
I've got a '94 VR-4, so my stock wheels are 17". I'm running stock
size
> (245/45/17) tires, and plan to stick with the same (17's are
cheaper than
> 18's!). The Kosei K1 wheels I'm looking at are 7.5
inches wide. Would 245
> tires fit okay on a 7.5 inch wheel?
It seems like this should be okay, but
> I figure someone else must've
tried this at some point, so I'm looking to
> learn from other people's
experience. :)
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 21 Feb 2002 09:22:44
-0800
From: "Geddes, Brian J" <
brian.j.geddes@intel.com>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: Lightweight 17" wheels for a '94 VR-4
Darren - Thanks for the
suggestions. Please see responses below:
> I have
track wheels from a 1997 SL and they are about 25# each. Not
>light
but I also don't want them made out of sheet aluminum and so light
>they
bend when I take a bump on a road course. I don't mind an extra
5#
>as long as I know it is beefy and sturdy enough to hold up to the
abuse.
>Besides, once you are up to speed you try to maintain it on the
track.
>Doing a 1/4 mile drag on the other hand is a different
story.
My car is a daily driver with aspirations of going to the track or
autocross
occationally, but it's certainly not a full-out track car.
Most of the
action my car sees is quick acceleration and speedy turns on
empty streets.
I think lightweight wheels should be okay for everyday
driving...any
opinions?
> I think Jeff Lucius
has a great setup and the tire+wheel is down to
>near 40# total (my tire
is 25# and wheel is about 25#) but it is a
>255/40/17 too instead of the
stock size).
> It depends if you will upgrade brake calipers
but just look for one
>with the same offset (42 mm I think?) and it should
be okay. I believe
>TireRack has a good handle on knowing what
wheels will clear a stock
>setup so feel free to ask them.
I'll ask
'em. I don't plan to do a caliper upgrade.
> Larger
rotational mass (unsprung weight) takes more oomph to get
>going but can
also help maintain momentum in and through a turn
>(although it generally
doesn't get that for a bonus add-on). Just
>remember that a wheel of
5# lighter certainly will help in starting up
>and getting to speed but
that is a savings of 20# on the car total and
>the passenger stock seat
from a VR-4 weighs 40#. Just do some smart
>math
occasionally.
I always try to do some math before I do anything to my
car. I'm not going
for the light wheels for overall weight savings -
I'm more interested in
reducing driveline mass. In theory, I think
reducing driveline mass by 20+
pounds (the wheels I'm looking at are 13.5 and
16.5 pounds) should make
significant improvments in acceleration and
braking. If it takes a little
extra throttle to hold speed because of
the reduced rotational momentum, I
think I can make that trade.
:)
> The 8" width is good stock size to maintain so speedo
and tach are
>nice and accurate with good tire selection (plus sizing that
is). If
>you want wider wheels up front then you need longer wheel
studs,
>spacers, etc. I believe a 265-width tire fits under a stock
second gen
>VR-4 (or it does for me). This also can fit on the 17x8
wheel.
>
>--Flash!
>1995 VR-4
- -----Original
Message-----
From: Geddes, Brian J
Sent: Wednesday, February 20, 2002
20:00
I recently bent a rim on my VR-4. :( I'm looking
at getting a stock
replacement (if you've got one for sale let me know!!),
but I've also
been
thinking this could be a good opportunity to get some
lighter wheels.
It's
my understanding that a reduction in rotating mass
can make a pretty
significant performance difference. I just got new
tires and want to
keep
the wheels as light as possible, so I want to stick
with 17" wheels.
I know one of the main concerns with aftermarket
wheels is clearing the
brake calipers, but what about weight? I haven't
been able to find any
weight tolerance specs on any of the wheels I've looked
at...does anyone
know how to go about that?
The two wheels that
have caught my eye thus far are the Kosei K1 Racing
wheels and the SSR
Competition wheels, both in the dark finish (looks
are
somewhat of a
factor!) and available on TireRack.com. Anybody have any
experience
with either of these? Also, what width of wheel should I be
looking
at? Any suggestions on other wheels I should look at?
***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 21 Feb 2002 12:24:34
-0500
From: Anthony Melillo <
anthonymelillo3@comcast.net>
Subject:
Team3S: online source for factory parts
Ah these email problems are going
to drive me nuts. All my messages from yesterday came back with unable to
deliver. Maybe I should
start my own ISP. Just kidding.
I need
to get a new plastic shroud that goes around the instrument panel, and the glass
covers from the fog lights on my 1997 VR-4,
and was wondering if anyone knew
of an online source for these parts ?
I no longer have access to the
local dealer, so I can't buy it locally, without driving 45
minutes.
Thanks all
Anthony Melillo
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 21 Feb 2002 12:41:03
-0500
From: "Zobel, Kurt" <
KURT.ZOBEL@ca.com>
Subject: RE:
Team3S: Lightweight 17" wheels for a '94 VR-4
When I got my K1s I was
going to get 17in, but they said they did not fit
the VR4.
I have an NA,
but wanted a size to fit VR4, or at least VR4 brakes. I ended
up with the
16in, which I am very happy with on my NA. When I recently
checked on a 1st
gen stealth, lo and behold the 16in fit ok! They are close,
but with a 5mm
spacer I would feel completely safe.
If you can find a dealer that
actually has the 17in, try the fit! i think
they are about 17-18 lbs, my
16x8.5 are 16 lbs.
Kurt
- -----Original
Message-----
From:
apedenko@attbi.com
[mailto:apedenko@attbi.com]
Sent: Wednesday, February 20, 2002 5:46 PM
To:
Geddes, Brian J
Cc:
team3s@team3s.comSubject: Re: Team3S:
Lightweight 17" wheels for a '94 VR-4
I know Fittipaldi (?) makes a
good set of 17x8 wheels
that clear the stock calipers and are pretty light.
I
know it's somewhat apples and oranges, but i replaced
my 18" chromes
with these 17 inchers, and they are
_considerably_ lighter. I can get the
part number if
you want it. And they clear the stock calipers on a '95
VR4 (front and rear)
Alex.
> All -
>
> I
recently bent a rim on my VR-4. :( I'm looking at getting a
stock
> replacement (if you've got one for sale let me know!!), but I've
also been
> thinking this could be a good opportunity to get some lighter
wheels.
It's
> my understanding that a reduction in rotating mass can
make a pretty
> significant performance difference. I just got new
tires and want to keep
> the wheels as light as possible, so I want to
stick with 17" wheels.
>
> I know one of the main concerns
with aftermarket wheels is clearing the
> brake calipers, but what about
weight? I haven't been able to find any
> weight tolerance specs on
any of the wheels I've looked at...does anyone
> know how to go about
that?
>
> The two wheels that have caught my eye thus far
are the Kosei K1 Racing
> wheels and the SSR Competition wheels, both in
the dark finish (looks are
> somewhat of a factor!) and available on
TireRack.com. Anybody have any
> experience with either of
these? Also, what width of wheel should I be
> looking at? Any
suggestions on other wheels I should look at?
>
> Thanks,
> -
Brian
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 21 Feb 2002 09:49:06
-0800
From: "tri" <
thn@dexray.com>
Subject: Re: Team3S:
Lightweight 17" wheels for a '94 VR-4
here's a site that i found that has
a list of weights for wheels. just click
on the wheels button. it also gives
a good description of wheel construction
at the bottom of the page.
http://www.wheelweights.net/it's a
pretty good chart.
- ----- Original Message -----
From: "fastmax"
<
fastmax@cox.net>
To: "Geddes,
Brian J" <
brian.j.geddes@intel.com>; <
team3s@team3s.com>
Sent: Thursday,
February 21, 2002 9:19 AM
Subject: Re: Team3S: Lightweight 17" wheels for a
'94 VR-4
> 17 x 7½ are probably not recommended --- tire rack had a
chart showing
> tire profile vs. wheel width. You can make them fit but
handling
> performance would
suffer.
>
> Jim
Berry
> ================================
>
> ----- Original
Message -----
> From: "Geddes, Brian J" <
brian.j.geddes@intel.com>
>
>
> I've got a '94 VR-4, so my stock wheels are 17". I'm running stock
size
> > (245/45/17) tires, and plan to stick with the same (17's are
cheaper
than
> > 18's!). The Kosei K1 wheels I'm looking at
are 7.5 inches wide. Would
245
> > tires fit okay on a 7.5
inch wheel? It seems like this should be okay,
but
> > I
figure someone else must've tried this at some point, so I'm
looking
to
> > learn from other people's experience.
:)
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 21 Feb 2002 09:50:34
-0800
From: "Gross, Erik" <
erik.gross@intel.com>
Subject: RE:
Team3S: Rims
I would suspect that the difference in selection (I assume
you were looking
at 17" wheels to keep the same size as stock) is due to the
much larger
front brake calipers on the 2G VR-4 (WRT the
base/SL/1gVR-4). Most 17"
wheels will not fit the VR-4 - even the 17"
wheels from the 1st generation
TT cars won't fit. As Darren and others
will tell you the 17" wheels from
the '97+ SLs will fit the VR-4, but the 17"
selection is limited. With 18s,
it's all about the offset since the
inner diameter won't be a problem like
it is with many 17" wheels.
There are many 18" wheels that will fit, and
even more 18s that will fit with
(properly installed) spacers.
- --Erik
'95 VR-4 with '94 VR-4 (17")
wheels for the track
- -----Original Message-----
From: John Stegall
III [mailto:jstegall@programmer.net]
I was looking at tirerack.com for
rims for my '94 VR-4, and it only came up
with 4 different rims. But
the instant I switched to SL or base models of
the same year, 46 different
rims show up.
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 21 Feb 2002 17:51:00
+0000
From:
apedenko@attbi.comSubject: Re: Team3S:
Emergency Brake Light Stays On ???
Actually it might be an issue because
that light
doubles for the low fluid level indicator. I had mine
going
on every time i slammed on the brakes - turned
out i was low on fluid and it
was just at the
threshold. Hard braking brought it over just enough to
trigger the warning.
Alex
> Shouldn't be the issue --- the E
brake is strictly mechanical, look at the
> manual,
> there has to
be a switch and quite probably an adjustment.
>
> Jim Berry
>
===============================================
>
> ----- Original
Message -----
> From: "Wayne" <
whietala@prodigy.net>
>
>
> Have you checked the brake fluid reservoir to see if the fluid is
low?
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 21 Feb 2002 12:06:21
-0600
From: "Christopher Deutsch" <
crdeutsch@mn.mediaone.net>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: Rims
What exactly are you saying? First you say to get
heavier wheels and then
you say you've never heard of anyone bending a light
one?
How do the stock chromies compare to lightweight Volks (or other
quality
rims)? I've seen several VR4s and TTs running the 17inch
TE37s. Also, do
you have any hard evidence to back up your
statements? Anybody else want to
chime
in?
Christopher
> -----Original Message-----
> From:
owner-team3s@team3s.com
[mailto:owner-team3s@team3s.com]On Behalf
> Of Darren Schilberg
>
Sent: Wednesday, February 20, 2002 9:36 PM
> To:
Team3S@stealth-3000gt.st>
Subject: RE: Team3S: Rims
> Just remember to look
for the heavier wheels (I can't remember if the
> cast or forged is
preferred) but the stamped aluminum that you can put
> on an Integra just
will not work on our cars. Now that I think about it
> - I don't
think I've heard of many people who put on a lightweight wheel
> and bend
it to all heck because they bottomed out their 3,800 pound
> beast.
Maybe some of the not-so-bright ones on 3Si would have some
> input or
maybe TireRack and others will know what weight car their
> wheels are
for.
>
> --Flash!
> 1995 VR-4 with 17" and 18"
wheels
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 21 Feb 2002 12:29:39
-0600
From: "Willis, Charles E." <
cewillis@TexasChildrensHospital.org>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: Rims
I've made the same error getting a wheel off at the
track out and hit the
same pothole with stock chrome 17" wheels (first gen)
and at a much higher
speed with Volk TE37's. Result was a dented rim on
the stock, no problem
with the Volk's. Trouble with this comparison is
the tire pressure on the
track tires (Yoko's) was 40 psi cold, but on the
street tires, it was only
32 psi (if I remember).
Chuck
Willis
BTW the street tire incident was at an instructor clinic!
Duh.
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Christopher Deutsch
[SMTP:crdeutsch@mn.mediaone.net]
> Sent: Thursday, February 21, 2002 12:06
PM
> To:
Team3S@stealth-3000gt.st>
Subject: RE: Team3S: Rims
>
> How do the stock chromies compare to
lightweight Volks (or other quality
> rims)? I've seen several VR4s
and TTs running the 17inch TE37s. Also, do
> you have any hard
evidence to back up your statements? Anybody else want
> to
>
chime in?
>
> Christopher
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 21 Feb 2002 13:38:28
-0500
From: "Mihai Raicu" <
mraicu@wayne.edu>
Subject: Team3S: RE:
high speed gauge shot
Jim,
I like the fact that you took that
picture. Brave thing for you to do
at that speed. It is also an
accurate representation of your car at
that instant. My brother and I
have 2 Apexi AVC-Rs just like you. We
recorded with a camcorder
moderate acceleration in all the gears (1-6)
on my brothers 94 TT with Nitto
555 245/45WR17 tires. Then we digitized
the video on the computer and
put all the RPM and speed (kph) values in
an excel sheet. Then I
converted kph to mph and plotted the linear
graph.
Here is the excel
sheet:
http://www.speedtoys.com/~mraicu/Speed
vs RPM in different Gears.xls
(164K)
or try this (same thing):
http://www.speedtoys.com/~mraicu/Speed%20vs%20RPM%20in%20different%20Gears.xls
Maybe there is some error from baseline induced from my brothers
tires
and some from your Michelin tires. I checked various tire brand
RPM's
(245/45-17) and they vary anywhere from 798 to 815 revolutions per
mile.
That is an error of 2% when brand new and does not account for wear I
do
not know of the exact Revolutions per mile of my brother's tires or
your
Michelin.
According to my chart the max speed in each gear (@
7000 RPM) is:
1st: 38.99 mph
2nd: 70.34 mph
3rd: 109.16 mph
4th: 145.19 mph
5th: 184.82 mph
6th: 241.30 mph
I don't have
the owner's manual right here with me to double check these
speeds. Can
anyone double check and post them for a 6
speed
transmission.
Regardless, the error is not that great, however
it just goes to show
you what different tires will do to the speedometer on
the exact same
car (94 TT).
- -MIHAI-
95 Red VR4
John
94
Pearl Yellow TT
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Jim
Matthews [mailto:jim@the-matthews.com]
> Sent: Wednesday, February 20,
2002 3:37 PM
> To:
aa2345@wayne.edu> Cc:
Team3S@stealth-3000gt.st>
Subject: RE: high speed gauge shot
>
> Why would I take
offense? All I did was take a picture! Michelin
Pilot
>
XGT-Z4 245/45ZR17 on all
> four corners. Don't remember if I was in
5th or 6th (I think 6th),
but in
> my experience both gears
>
will hold 170mph but neither will accelerate much beyond it.
>
> -
--
> Jim Matthews - Munich, Germany
>
mailto:jim@the-matthews.com (64 Kbps
ISDN)
>
http://www.the-matthews.com***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 21 Feb 2002 14:00:10
-0500
From: "Calum McCusker" <
Calum@Canalytical.com>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: RE: Check engine Sign
Up in S.Ontario we have a bi-annual
emissions check and I swear my RT knew
when it was due, 10 mins before
heading for the test the check engine light
would come on.
According
to the manual it is ties into the Cat emission levels. My answer,
1. Drive
until you can put new fuel in which should clear it.
2. Drop in some fuel
cleaner which should also help
I'm pretty sure my problem was the first
test was right after vacation so it
had been sitting for three weeks in a
basement, and the second time I'd just
filled up with a higher grade fuel
that it was used to. Both times it went
away and stayed away.
Course
now I have the SRS light on and can't get it off so I'd appreciate
any help
on that one ?
All the best
Calum
92 RT Baby blue
Calum@Canalytical.comwww.Canalytical.coman ISO 17025
Company
- ----- Original Message -----
From: "Jason Toy" <
LiquidShadow22@hotmail.com>
To:
<
Team3S@stealth-3000gt.st>
Sent:
Wednesday, February 20, 2002 7:45 PM
Subject: Team3S: RE: Check engine
Sign
> Can someone help me out here. I just got a new starter put into
my 1996
> 3000gt base last weekend. Put some gas (super) in today, and
then The
> Check engine sign came in. Should I go back to the mechanic at
the getty
> and yell at him, or is there something I could do on my own to
cure this
> problem. The car has 46k miles on it, and the everything seems
fine to
> me. 20 min later I checked the car again, the sign was gone. I
don't
> know what to think now.
> Please let me know what you guys
think.
> Thanks,
> Jason
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 21 Feb 2002 11:32:42
-0800
From: "Gross, Erik" <
erik.gross@intel.com>
Subject: RE:
Team3S: Gauges
I used to have a GReddy 52mm mechanical boost gauge in my
car... just
replaced it with a GReddy 60mm P/H Boost gauge and have 2 similar
EGT gauges
sitting in the boxes. LOVE the boost gauge. Peak hold
is excellent - it
already helped me diagnose a 25hp (peak)power loss (and
lower torque curve
from 4000RPM+) in tuning my WI (nothing bad, BTW).
The 60mm size is much
more readable and the backlighting (black gauge with
green lighting) is
excellent. Amber would be nice to match the stock
interior, but I'm not
gonna yell too loudly.
As Jim indicated, since
you're out on the track often, I'd go with the
electronic gauges since
they're not *that* much more :-) The warning
feature is what tipped the
scales for me - flashing red light when you
exceed a (user-specified)
setting. It also has a wire to hook up something
else to be triggered
by the warning if you like. I'm using an 87db 4kHz
buzzer since I'm not
looking at the gauges all the time. Hopefully I'll
hear that with a
helmet on; if not, I'll get a louder one. I figure a tazer
coupled with
a recorded voice saying "Get off the throttle, you @#$%*&!"
would be
effective as well.
One other thing is that AFAIK, mechanical
oil/water/fuel temp/pressure
gauges require the fluid to actually enter the
gauge. If you mount the
gauges in the cockpit, you'd have potential for
a mess/burn/fire if a
fitting came loose.
As for the vacuum hose
connection, the hose for my electronic sending unit
is about 6 inches
long... the hose for my mechanical boost gauge was about
6 feet long
(6mm, rubber - previous owner, don't blame me).
- --Erik
BTW,
anyone know whether the warning feature for the oil pressure gauges is
for
LOW pressure or HIGH pressure? I can't seem to find anything other
than
mention of a "warning feature." I'd think a low pressure
warning would be
much more useful. Same would apply for a water
pressure gauge (WI system).
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 21 Feb 2002 11:40:59
-0800 (PST)
From: menalteed <
menalteed@yahoo.com>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: RE: Check engine Sign
SRS light at times if it stays on you need
to turn the
key on and off about ten times and that re sets
it.
Peter
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 21 Feb 2002 14:43:15
-0500
From: "Mihai Raicu" <
mraicu@wayne.edu>
Subject: Team3S: RE:
high speed gauge shot
Roger,
Is the additional 10-16km/h above 150
km/h just for 1st gen cars that do
not have their speed gear changed?
Or does the 2nd gen speedo show
optimistic also?
- -MIHAI-
95 Red
VR4
>Our tach shows about 10-16km/h too much above 150
km/h
>
>Roger
>93'3000GT
TT
>www.rtec.ch
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 21 Feb 2002 20:53:25
+0100
From: "Roger Gerl" <
roger.gerl@bluewin.ch>
Subject:
Team3S: Re: high speed gauge shot
All show 10 - 15 km/h too much, this is
normal (and be seen on the dynos)
Roger
93'3000GT TT
www.rtec.ch- ----- Original Message -----
From: "Mihai Raicu" <
mraicu@wayne.edu>
To: <
roger.gerl@bluewin.ch>
Cc: <
Team3S@stealth-3000gt.st>
Sent:
Thursday, February 21, 2002 8:43 PM
Subject: RE: high speed gauge
shot
> Roger,
>
> Is the additional 10-16km/h above 150
km/h just for 1st gen cars that do
> not have their speed gear
changed? Or does the 2nd gen speedo show
> optimistic also?
>
> -MIHAI-
> 95 Red VR4
>
> >Our tach shows about
10-16km/h too much above 150 km/h
> >
> >Roger
>
>93'3000GT TT
> >www.rtec.ch
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 21 Feb 2002 15:08:04
-0600
From:
Pete.Laing@hurlburt.af.milSubject:
Team3S:
Does anyone know if there are any good shops in the north
Florida area to
take my stealth to for performance upgrades and body work?
any suggestions
would be appreciated.
- -Pete L.
91 Stealth ES
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 21 Feb 2002 16:25:50
-0500
From: "Darren Schilberg" <
dschilberg@pobox.com>
Subject: RE:
Team3S: Gauges
Thanks, Erik and others. I like electronic gauges
for them all as wires
are easier to route and like you said fluids enter for
the other gauges.
I don't see the mechanical oil pressure one too often but
wanted to make
it real easy on me and if the stock boost gauge is electrical
then get
an aftermarket one and not have to get a new sending unit but maybe
use
the stock one. But for the $55 gauge you get everything so it is
a
bargain sometimes. I really want to put the three gauges on
the
A-pillar and monitor what the stock ones are actually showing since
they
have no numbers and then put that on the site for people to
reference.
I know standard water temp gauges go to about 265 F or 280 F but
is the
top of the red mark 300 F? I don't know.
I have a black
car and like the amber light so would love an Indiglo set
but it wouldn't
look right. Therefore I think I am settling on the
Autometer Z Series
(black face, red needle) but nobody has pictures of
their gauges from the
catalog in a dark setting with the lights
illuminated so I don't know which
ones are green and which are red. On
the track we aren't allowed to
drive at night yet anyway so it doesn't
matter for that
application.
And does the 60mm gauge mount from the outside in (dropping
in from the
front) of the Autometer A-pillar gauge pod but the 52mm one fits
in from
the backside (pushing it from inside the gauge pod toward the
front)? I
would like to keep it clean-looking and don't want a shiny
silver bezel
on the outside when the rest of the car is black/dark. So
if this means
the 52mm only then I'll get those. I would like the
biggest possible
(60mm) as it is clearer and saw that people were unsure if
the 60mm fit
snugly into the stock gauge cluster in the center dash.
Can someone
confirm if the 60mm fits in the center stock gauge
pod?
And our friends at 3SX Performance have my ultimate set of dual
gauges.
Dual EGT (standard, really), but they can MAKE a dual oil
temp/water
temp gauge (ideal since it saves on gauge opening), and then do,
say,
oil pressure/water pressure (for those with WI). Just fun
measuring 6
readings in 3 gauges. Someday I'll get to all
that.
- --Flash!
1995 VR-4
- -----Original
Message-----
From: Gross, Erik
Sent: Thursday, February 21, 2002
14:33
I used to have a GReddy 52mm mechanical boost gauge in my
car... just
replaced it with a GReddy 60mm P/H Boost gauge and have 2 similar
EGT
gauges
sitting in the boxes. LOVE the boost gauge. Peak
hold is excellent -
it
already helped me diagnose a 25hp (peak)power loss
(and lower torque
curve
from 4000RPM+) in tuning my WI (nothing bad,
BTW). The 60mm size is
much
more readable and the backlighting
(black gauge with green lighting) is
excellent. Amber would be nice to
match the stock interior, but I'm not
gonna yell too loudly.
As Jim
indicated, since you're out on the track often, I'd go with the
electronic
gauges since they're not *that* much more :-) The warning
feature is
what tipped the scales for me - flashing red light when you
exceed a
(user-specified) setting. It also has a wire to hook
up
something
else to be triggered by the warning if you like. I'm
using an 87db 4kHz
buzzer since I'm not looking at the gauges all the
time. Hopefully I'll
hear that with a helmet on; if not, I'll get a
louder one. I figure a
tazer
coupled with a recorded voice saying
"Get off the throttle, you @#$%*&!"
would be effective as
well.
One other thing is that AFAIK, mechanical oil/water/fuel
temp/pressure
gauges require the fluid to actually enter the gauge. If
you mount the
gauges in the cockpit, you'd have potential for a
mess/burn/fire if a
fitting came loose.
As for the vacuum hose
connection, the hose for my electronic sending
unit
is about 6 inches
long... the hose for my mechanical boost gauge was
about
6 feet long
(6mm, rubber - previous owner, don't blame me).
- --Erik
BTW,
anyone know whether the warning feature for the oil pressure gauges
is
for
LOW pressure or HIGH pressure? I can't seem to find anything
other
than
mention of a "warning feature." I'd think a low
pressure warning would
be
much more useful. Same would apply for a
water pressure gauge (WI
system).
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 21 Feb 2002 15:38:39
-0600
From: "Christopher Deutsch" <
crdeutsch@mn.mediaone.net>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: Gauges
Blitz makes a new set of peek hold/warning gauges that
I believe supports
logging 2 EGT's on one electronic EGT gauge using the
"brain" or control
unit. (According to an ad in Turbo magazine) They look
pretty sweet, but are
64mm!
Check em out:
http://www.blitz-na.com/Blitz_E_Gauge_DC.htmChristopher
>
-----Original Message-----
> From:
owner-team3s@team3s.com
[mailto:owner-team3s@team3s.com]On Behalf
> Of Darren Schilberg
>
Sent: Thursday, February 21, 2002 3:26 PM
> To: 'Team3S List
(E-mail)'
> Subject: RE: Team3S: Gauges
>
> Thanks, Erik and
others. I like electronic gauges for them all as wires
> are easier
to route and like you said fluids enter for the other gauges.
> I don't
see the mechanical oil pressure one too often but wanted to make
> it real
easy on me and if the stock boost gauge is electrical then get
> an
aftermarket one and not have to get a new sending unit but maybe use
> the
stock one. But for the $55 gauge you get everything so it is a
>
bargain sometimes. I really want to put the three gauges on the
>
A-pillar and monitor what the stock ones are actually showing since they
>
have no numbers and then put that on the site for people to reference.
> I
know standard water temp gauges go to about 265 F or 280 F but is the
>
top of the red mark 300 F? I don't know.
>
> I have a black
car and like the amber light so would love an Indiglo set
> but it
wouldn't look right. Therefore I think I am settling on the
>
Autometer Z Series (black face, red needle) but nobody has pictures of
>
their gauges from the catalog in a dark setting with the lights
>
illuminated so I don't know which ones are green and which are red.
On
> the track we aren't allowed to drive at night yet anyway so it
doesn't
> matter for that application.
>
> And does the 60mm
gauge mount from the outside in (dropping in from the
> front) of the
Autometer A-pillar gauge pod but the 52mm one fits in from
> the backside
(pushing it from inside the gauge pod toward the front)? I
> would
like to keep it clean-looking and don't want a shiny silver bezel
> on the
outside when the rest of the car is black/dark. So if this means
>
the 52mm only then I'll get those. I would like the biggest
possible
> (60mm) as it is clearer and saw that people were unsure if the
60mm fit
> snugly into the stock gauge cluster in the center dash.
Can someone
> confirm if the 60mm fits in the center stock gauge
pod?
>
> And our friends at 3SX Performance have my ultimate set of
dual gauges.
> Dual EGT (standard, really), but they can MAKE a dual oil
temp/water
> temp gauge (ideal since it saves on gauge opening), and then
do, say,
> oil pressure/water pressure (for those with WI). Just fun
measuring 6
> readings in 3 gauges. Someday I'll get to all
that.
>
> --Flash!
> 1995 VR-4
>
> -----Original
Message-----
> From: Gross, Erik
> Sent: Thursday, February 21, 2002
14:33
>
> I used to have a GReddy 52mm mechanical boost gauge in my
car... just
> replaced it with a GReddy 60mm P/H Boost gauge and have 2
similar EGT
> gauges
> sitting in the boxes. LOVE the boost
gauge. Peak hold is excellent -
> it
> already helped me
diagnose a 25hp (peak)power loss (and lower torque
> curve
> from
4000RPM+) in tuning my WI (nothing bad, BTW). The 60mm size is
>
much
> more readable and the backlighting (black gauge with green
lighting) is
> excellent. Amber would be nice to match the stock
interior, but I'm not
> gonna yell too loudly.
>
> As Jim
indicated, since you're out on the track often, I'd go with the
>
electronic gauges since they're not *that* much more :-) The
warning
> feature is what tipped the scales for me - flashing red light
when you
> exceed a (user-specified) setting. It also has a wire to
hook up
> something
> else to be triggered by the warning if you
like. I'm using an 87db 4kHz
> buzzer since I'm not looking at the
gauges all the time. Hopefully I'll
> hear that with a helmet on; if
not, I'll get a louder one. I figure a
> tazer
> coupled with
a recorded voice saying "Get off the throttle, you @#$%*&!"
> would be
effective as well.
>
> One other thing is that AFAIK, mechanical
oil/water/fuel temp/pressure
> gauges require the fluid to actually enter
the gauge. If you mount the
> gauges in the cockpit, you'd have
potential for a mess/burn/fire if a
> fitting came loose.
>
>
As for the vacuum hose connection, the hose for my electronic sending
>
unit
> is about 6 inches long... the hose for my mechanical boost
gauge was
> about
> 6 feet long (6mm, rubber - previous owner, don't
blame me).
>
> --Erik
>
> BTW, anyone know whether the
warning feature for the oil pressure gauges
> is
> for LOW pressure
or HIGH pressure? I can't seem to find anything other
> than
>
mention of a "warning feature." I'd think a low pressure warning
would
> be
> much more useful. Same would apply for a water
pressure gauge (WI
> system).
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 21 Feb 2002 16:45:14
-0500
From: "Darren Schilberg" <
dschilberg@pobox.com>
Subject: RE:
Team3S: Lightweight 17" wheels for a '94 VR-4
Brian,
Those lighter
wheels are good for daily driver and AutoX just be sure to
check them after a
larger-than-normal pothole or bump on the highway as
they might not hold up
as well as the stock wheels. Your x/45/17 wheels
are also a help with
the 45-series Aspect Ratio.
Your car already has the slightly larger
second gen calipers so if
wheels fit those then you are good as they will fit
other upgrades (Big
Reds, Big Blacks, F-40, Stillen, Brembo, AP, etc.) and
who knows as you
might find a good deal on them. I am selling my Big
Reds for a
competitive price and making someone happy as I'll install them on
his
car too. You might find a similar deal sometime.
Yes a
lighter wheel will help driveline, etc. stuff. Everything does
but it
has to withstand the forces. A 12# clutch is great as long as it
holds
up. I would be afraid that wheels as light as yours would bend.
13# is
a little too light for my taste even being a 17" rim. 16# might
still
be a little under my "gut feel" but I'm willing to be
proven
wrong.
TireRack has a chart under each tire (so find a
245/45/17 tire) that
gives the range of rim widths. My stock 245/40/18
fits on something
like a 7"-9" rim and the rim they mounted it on for
measuring was 8"
wide. If you want a 265-width tire then I think a 9"
rim is preferred.
They have a chart or respond quickly to email and phone and
are helpful
whenever I need questions answered.
- --Flash!
1995
VR-4 and putting 4,000 pounds of car at 130 mph onto the front
wheels at
ABS-impended braking so the last thing I want is a wheel to go
out on
me
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 21 Feb 2002 14:45:49
-0700
From: "Floyd, Jim" <
Jim_Floyd@maxtor.com>
Subject: RE:
Team3S: Gauges
It says 60mm under description on their site.
-
-----Original Message-----
From: Christopher Deutsch
[mailto:crdeutsch@mn.mediaone.net]
Sent: Thursday, February 21, 2002 2:39
PM
To: 'Team3S List (E-mail)'
Subject: RE: Team3S: Gauges
Blitz
makes a new set of peek hold/warning gauges that I believe supports
logging 2
EGT's on one electronic EGT gauge using the "brain" or control
unit.
(According to an ad in Turbo magazine) They look pretty sweet, but
are
64mm!
Check em out:
http://www.blitz-na.com/Blitz_E_Gauge_DC.htmChristopher
>
-----Original Message-----
> From:
owner-team3s@team3s.com
[mailto:owner-team3s@team3s.com]On Behalf
> Of Darren Schilberg
>
Sent: Thursday, February 21, 2002 3:26 PM
> To: 'Team3S List
(E-mail)'
> Subject: RE: Team3S: Gauges
>
>
> Thanks,
Erik and others. I like electronic gauges for them all as wires
>
are easier to route and like you said fluids enter for the other gauges.
>
I don't see the mechanical oil pressure one too often but wanted to make
>
it real easy on me and if the stock boost gauge is electrical then get
>
an aftermarket one and not have to get a new sending unit but maybe use
>
the stock one. But for the $55 gauge you get everything so it is a
>
bargain sometimes. I really want to put the three gauges on the
>
A-pillar and monitor what the stock ones are actually showing since they
>
have no numbers and then put that on the site for people to reference.
> I
know standard water temp gauges go to about 265 F or 280 F but is the
>
top of the red mark 300 F? I don't know.
>
> I have a black
car and like the amber light so would love an Indiglo set
> but it
wouldn't look right. Therefore I think I am settling on the
>
Autometer Z Series (black face, red needle) but nobody has pictures of
>
their gauges from the catalog in a dark setting with the lights
>
illuminated so I don't know which ones are green and which are red.
On
> the track we aren't allowed to drive at night yet anyway so it
doesn't
> matter for that application.
>
> And does the 60mm
gauge mount from the outside in (dropping in from the
> front) of the
Autometer A-pillar gauge pod but the 52mm one fits in from
> the backside
(pushing it from inside the gauge pod toward the front)? I
> would
like to keep it clean-looking and don't want a shiny silver bezel
> on the
outside when the rest of the car is black/dark. So if this means
>
the 52mm only then I'll get those. I would like the biggest
possible
> (60mm) as it is clearer and saw that people were unsure if the
60mm fit
> snugly into the stock gauge cluster in the center dash.
Can someone
> confirm if the 60mm fits in the center stock gauge
pod?
>
> And our friends at 3SX Performance have my ultimate set of
dual gauges.
> Dual EGT (standard, really), but they can MAKE a dual oil
temp/water
> temp gauge (ideal since it saves on gauge opening), and then
do, say,
> oil pressure/water pressure (for those with WI). Just fun
measuring 6
> readings in 3 gauges. Someday I'll get to all
that.
>
> --Flash!
> 1995 VR-4
>
> -----Original
Message-----
> From: Gross, Erik
> Sent: Thursday, February 21, 2002
14:33
>
> I used to have a GReddy 52mm mechanical boost gauge in my
car... just
> replaced it with a GReddy 60mm P/H Boost gauge and have 2
similar EGT
> gauges
> sitting in the boxes. LOVE the boost
gauge. Peak hold is excellent -
> it
> already helped me
diagnose a 25hp (peak)power loss (and lower torque
> curve
> from
4000RPM+) in tuning my WI (nothing bad, BTW). The 60mm size is
>
much
> more readable and the backlighting (black gauge with green
lighting) is
> excellent. Amber would be nice to match the stock
interior, but I'm not
> gonna yell too loudly.
>
> As Jim
indicated, since you're out on the track often, I'd go with the
>
electronic gauges since they're not *that* much more :-) The
warning
> feature is what tipped the scales for me - flashing red light
when you
> exceed a (user-specified) setting. It also has a wire to
hook up
> something
> else to be triggered by the warning if you
like. I'm using an 87db 4kHz
> buzzer since I'm not looking at the
gauges all the time. Hopefully I'll
> hear that with a helmet on; if
not, I'll get a louder one. I figure a
> tazer
> coupled with
a recorded voice saying "Get off the throttle, you @#$%*&!"
> would be
effective as well.
>
> One other thing is that AFAIK, mechanical
oil/water/fuel temp/pressure
> gauges require the fluid to actually enter
the gauge. If you mount the
> gauges in the cockpit, you'd have
potential for a mess/burn/fire if a
> fitting came loose.
>
>
As for the vacuum hose connection, the hose for my electronic sending
>
unit
> is about 6 inches long... the hose for my mechanical boost
gauge was
> about
> 6 feet long (6mm, rubber - previous owner, don't
blame me).
>
> --Erik
>
> BTW, anyone know whether the
warning feature for the oil pressure gauges
> is
> for LOW pressure
or HIGH pressure? I can't seem to find anything other
> than
>
mention of a "warning feature." I'd think a low pressure warning
would
> be
> much more useful. Same would apply for a water
pressure gauge (WI
> system).
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 21 Feb 2002 15:46:14
-0600
From: "Jannusch, Matt" <
mjannusch@marketwatch.com>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: Gauges
> if the stock boost gauge is electrical then get
an
> aftermarket one and not have to get a new sending
> unit but
maybe use the stock one.
The stock one is electrically controlled by the
ECU. It is essentially a
fake boost gauge. Any electronic gauges
you get will come with their own
sender, which you should use regardless as
the gauge will be calibrated to
that sensor.
> And does the 60mm
gauge mount from the outside in (dropping
> in from the front) of the
Autometer A-pillar gauge pod but
> the 52mm one fits in from the backside
(pushing it from
> inside the gauge pod toward the front)?
Only the
52mm fits, and it slides in from the front. You might* be able to
hog
out the mounting hole, but then the gauge usually won't slide in all the
way
as it hits the side of the pod.
- -Matt
'95 3000GT Spyder
VR4
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 21 Feb 2002 16:47:02
-0500
From: "Darren Schilberg" <
dschilberg@pobox.com>
Subject: RE:
Team3S: Lightweight 17" wheels for a '94 VR-4
Thanks, Kurt. I think
I just mis-quoted my on wheel width. I think
they are 18x8.5 JJ and not
8" wide. Simple mistake.
Regardless ... TireRack still has a chart
and I'm sure most tire places
will either know or be able to find out if a
tire is a good fit to a
wheel.
- --Flash!
- -----Original
Message-----
From: Zobel, Kurt
Sent: Thursday, February 21, 2002
12:41
When I got my K1s I was going to get 17in, but they said they
did not
fit
the VR4.
I have an NA, but wanted a size to fit VR4, or at
least VR4 brakes. I
ended
up with the 16in, which I am very happy with on
my NA. When I recently
checked on a 1st gen stealth, lo and behold the 16in
fit ok! They are
close,
but with a 5mm spacer I would feel completely
safe.
If you can find a dealer that actually has the 17in, try the fit!
i
think
they are about 17-18 lbs, my 16x8.5 are 16 lbs.
***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 21 Feb 2002 15:52:38
-0600
From: "Christopher Deutsch" <
crdeutsch@mn.mediaone.net>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: Gauges
Oops, yeah, the face is 64mm. The back is
60mm. My mistake.
Christopher
> It says 60mm under
description on their site.
>
> -----Original Message-----
>
From: Christopher Deutsch [mailto:crdeutsch@mn.mediaone.net]
> Sent:
Thursday, February 21, 2002 2:39 PM
> To: 'Team3S List (E-mail)'
>
Subject: RE: Team3S: Gauges
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 21 Feb 2002 17:13:44
-0500
From: Daniel Koczera <
commgt@intrepid.net>
Subject:
Team3S: Triangle Window Flaking & Headlight Covers
I bought a '94
3000GT SL nt in 2000 with only 17k miles on it. It was
and still in
pristine shape. The only cosmetic problems were/are:
1. the black triangle
shaped door window on the drivers side - the black
has peeled off on what
seems to be an inner layer. I found dealers with
a replacement, but
I wondered how difficult it is to replace (I'm an
accident waiting to happen
when I have tools in my hands) Can I take it
to a local body shop
and have the work done there?
2. The plastic (glass?) exterior covers
on the headlights could be
cleaned on the inside or, if needed,
replaced. Are the covers sold
separate from the headlight
assembly? I noticed several clips that
appear to hold the cover to the
assembly, surely there's more to it than
that? If not perhaps I'd
give it a try. I appreciate any advice.
Dan
footnote: - 17K when I
bought it 2 years ago - just took it in for the
60K maintenance (can't pamper
it as did the original owner) added a
Borla exhaust, replaced 4 warped rotors
(w Powerslot), replaced the
water pump, plugs/wires etc. I'd already
added 18" konig wheels and
Nitto tires last summer and use the originals for
winter wheels. WV
hills can get pretty slippery in the winter.
-
--
Dan Koczera
Communication Management, Inc.
116 Eastland
Drive
Charles Town, WV 25414
304/725-0384
304/728-3040
(Fax)
commgt@intrepid.net***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 21 Feb 2002 23:08:08
+0100
From: "Roger Gerl" <
roger.gerl@bluewin.ch>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Gauges
Also no EGT.
Roger
93'3000GT TT
www.rtec.ch- ----- Original Message -----
From: "Christopher Deutsch" <
crdeutsch@mn.mediaone.net>
To:
"'Team3S List (E-mail)'" <
team3S@stealth-3000gt.st>
Sent:
Thursday, February 21, 2002 10:52 PM
Subject: RE: Team3S: Gauges
>
Oops, yeah, the face is 64mm. The back is 60mm. My mistake.
>
Christopher
>
> > It says 60mm under description on their
site.
> >
> > -----Original Message-----
> > From:
Christopher Deutsch [mailto:crdeutsch@mn.mediaone.net]
> > Sent:
Thursday, February 21, 2002 2:39 PM
> > To: 'Team3S List
(E-mail)'
> > Subject: RE: Team3S: Gauges
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 21 Feb 2002 17:14:44
-0500
From: "Darren Schilberg" <
dschilberg@pobox.com>
Subject: RE:
Team3S: Rims
I'm saying get heavier wheels because I have heard of Bob
Forrest
bending a wheel when their car went off track and across grass,
dirt,
gravel, etc. About $500-$800 as I recall after replacing the
wheel and
having an alignment. So get the stock wheels as they WILL
hold up. I
have banged on mine and have some small rim bends but they
do well. A
good friend in NYC drives on surface streets at 25 mph and
bends three
of his rims in under a year. I feel bad for him.
The
people I know with super lightweight wheels are not taking them on
the open
track but are doing 1/4 mile runs, show cars (for Gatherings),
are a Base or
SL and not doing power launches places but just "pimpin"
on the street (they
DO look nice I admit but I need the ones that
perform first and look nice
second).
Just ask the road track people what they use and what they have
bent. I
can take the pictures of my rims which have small bends at the
beads of
my 18" wheels but I do not track those. Track wheels are the
stock 17"
wheels from a 1997 SL I believe (Rich Merritt's old wheels) and I
don't
think I have any bends in those yet from two off-track runs and 50
hard
stops from 120 mph to about 50 mph at 4,200 pound track weight and
stock
(squishy) suspension, Big Reds and racing pads. I put a LOT of
weight
on these wheels.
No hard evidence but I would just not want to
be hitting a hard track
corner and have something break.
-
--Flash!
1995 VR-4
- -----Original Message-----
From: Christopher
Deutsch
Sent: Thursday, February 21, 2002 13:06
What exactly are
you saying? First you say to get heavier wheels and
then
you say
you've never heard of anyone bending a light one?
How do the stock
chromies compare to lightweight Volks (or other quality
rims)? I've
seen several VR4s and TTs running the 17inch TE37s. Also,
do
you
have any hard evidence to back up your statements? Anybody else
want
to
chime in?
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 21 Feb 2002 17:16:19
-0500
From: "Darren Schilberg" <
dschilberg@pobox.com>
Subject: RE:
Team3S: Rims
Heh. Maybe at the Instructor clinic you push harder
since there are no
students watching.
But good point about tire
selection. Street tire for me is a beefy
245/40/18 Pirelli P-Zero,
track tire is a wide but soft 255/40/17
Yokohama A-032 under-inflated from
street pressures sometimes or
over-inflated on other situations.
-
--Flash!
1995 VR-4
- -----Original Message-----
From:
owner-team3s@team3s.com
[mailto:owner-team3s@team3s.com] On Behalf
Of Willis, Charles E.
Sent:
Thursday, February 21, 2002 13:30
To: 'Christopher Deutsch';
Team3S@stealth-3000gt.stSubject:
RE: Team3S: Rims
I've made the same error getting a wheel off at the
track out and hit
the
same pothole with stock chrome 17" wheels (first
gen) and at a much
higher
speed with Volk TE37's. Result was a
dented rim on the stock, no
problem
with the Volk's. Trouble with
this comparison is the tire pressure on
the
track tires (Yoko's) was 40
psi cold, but on the street tires, it was
only
32 psi (if I
remember).
Chuck Willis
BTW the street tire incident was at an
instructor clinic! Duh.
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 21 Feb 2002 17:24:09
-0500
From: "Mihai Raicu" <
mraicu@wayne.edu>
Subject: Team3S: RE:
high speed gauge shot
169 mph (273 km/h) in 5th gear on 94 TT with 2
people in the car. Never
put the car in 6th. This is the number
from the AVC-R peak hold memory.
It correlates to what we saw on the
dash. I recall that we had the GPS
recordings as well and that speed
was confirmed. Then again, the
Government puts an error in all private
GPS receivers. However, over a
long time, the error should average
itself out. The car was
increasing speed very slowly up there.
-
-MIKE-
95 Red VR4
John
94 Pearl Yellow TT
>172 in 5th
gear. Forget what the RPMs were at - it was several
years
ago.
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 21 Feb 2002 16:52:07
-0600
From: "Christopher Deutsch" <
crdeutsch@mn.mediaone.net>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: Rims
That's what I'm doing, so far it's tied. 1 (Chuck)
says Volk TE37 may be
stronger, 1 (Flash) says stock.
I think the
stock '95 and '96 TT 18 inch chrome wheels are some of the best
looking
wheels I've ever seen, so looking good is not why I'm looking for
light
rims.
Also, where does the saying "chrome don't get you home" come
from? I assume
it's because they bend too
easy.
Christopher
> The people I know with super lightweight
wheels are not taking them on
> the open track but are doing 1/4 mile
runs, show cars (for Gatherings),
> are a Base or SL and not doing power
launches places but just "pimpin"
> on the street (they DO look nice I
admit but I need the ones that
> perform first and look nice
second).
>
> Just ask the road track people what they use and what
they have bent. I
> can take the pictures of my rims which have
small bends at the beads of
> my 18" wheels but I do not track
those. Track wheels are the stock 17"
> wheels from a 1997 SL I
believe (Rich Merritt's old wheels) and I don't
> think I have any bends
in those yet from two off-track runs and 50 hard
> stops from 120 mph to
about 50 mph at 4,200 pound track weight and stock
> (squishy) suspension,
Big Reds and racing pads. I put a LOT of weight
> on these
wheels.
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 21 Feb 2002 17:55:30
-0500
From: "Furman, Russell" <
RFurman2@MassMutual.com>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: Rims
That saying is applied for 2 reasons, 1 the
process of chroming a wheel
weakens the metal and 2 chrome wheels are
generally heavier (thicker/more
material used) to compensate for the
weakening caused by the chroming
process.
> -----Original
Message-----
> From: Christopher Deutsch
[SMTP:crdeutsch@mn.mediaone.net]
> Sent: Thursday, February 21, 2002 5:52
PM
> To:
Team3S@stealth-3000gt.st>
Subject: RE: Team3S: Rims
>
> That's what I'm doing, so far it's
tied. 1 (Chuck) says Volk TE37 may be
> stronger, 1 (Flash) says
stock.
>
> I think the stock '95 and '96 TT 18 inch chrome wheels
are some of the
> best
> looking wheels I've ever seen, so looking
good is not why I'm looking for
> light rims.
>
> Also, where
does the saying "chrome don't get you home" come from? I
>
assume
> it's because they bend too easy.
>
>
Christopher
>
> > The people I know with super lightweight
wheels are not taking them on
> > the open track but are doing 1/4 mile
runs, show cars (for Gatherings),
> > are a Base or SL and not doing
power launches places but just "pimpin"
> > on the street (they DO look
nice I admit but I need the ones that
> > perform first and look nice
second).
> >
> > Just ask the road track people what they use
and what they have bent. I
> > can take the pictures of my rims
which have small bends at the beads of
> > my 18" wheels but I do not
track those. Track wheels are the stock 17"
> > wheels from a
1997 SL I believe (Rich Merritt's old wheels) and I don't
> > think I
have any bends in those yet from two off-track runs and 50 hard
> >
stops from 120 mph to about 50 mph at 4,200 pound track weight and stock
>
> (squishy) suspension, Big Reds and racing pads. I put a LOT of
weight
> > on these wheels.
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 21 Feb 2002 17:58:16
-0500
From: "Zobel, Kurt" <
KURT.ZOBEL@ca.com>
Subject: RE:
Team3S: 6 pack throttle body
Followup from Phantom Racing:
The
power increase is with cam regrind and springs and ported heads and
custom
exhaust, plus the six pack.
They did not mention fuel, but it would have to
be addressed also.
Oh well, still nice, but a nice chunk of change
too.
Kurt
- -----Original Message-----
From: Zobel, Kurt
Sent: Monday, February 18, 2002 10:09 AM
To: Jason Toy;
Team3S@stealth-3000gt.stSubject:
RE: Team3S: 6 pack throttle body
They say this comes WITH computer to run
it.
In that case I would say the 40-50% may just be true, although more info
on
fuel delivery may be needed to support that. I gues the 'inline' six
pack
must be a 90deg job to fit under the hood for Mitsu engines?
http://www.phantomracing.net/index.htm/prices_1.htmNEW
LOW PRICE ON SIX THROTTLE BODIES SYSTEMS
Six Pack Twin Manifold
Throttle Body including haltech computer $2,210.00
for Chrysler &
Dodge & Plymouth 40 to 50% HP Gain
With Core
FOR THE
2.5 & 3.0 V6
Six Pack Inline Throttle Body System including Computer
$2,210.00 For
Mitsubishi 40 to 50% HP Gain
With Core
Kurt
- -----Original Message-----
From: Jason Toy
[mailto:LiquidShadow22@hotmail.com]
Sent: Saturday, February 16, 2002 1:00
PM
To:
Team3S@stealth-3000gt.stSubject:
Team3S: 6 pack throttle body
Guys,
I've been dangling the thought of
what to do with $2500 in mods for a
while. I just recently discovered a 6
pack throttle body, from rpw which
claims a 40 to 50%hp increase. I'm still a
little sketchy if its
credible, but it is I'll definitely go for it.
http://www.phantomracing.net/index.htm/prices_1.htmCheck
out the above site, the info is there. Please let me know what
your thoughts
are on it.
Thanks,
Jason
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 21 Feb 2002 19:02:02
-0500
From: "Darren Schilberg" <
dschilberg@pobox.com>
Subject: RE:
Team3S: Sway Bars are In!
Just got back from the dealer (I happen to have
a good one). 3 hours
for exactly $180 (pre-tax) to get the rear
anti-sway bar in. I'm happy
as this is not far behind Rich's job which
was about 2.5 hours. I
warned them ahead of time and they said some
things were stuck a little
more than first thought and they wanted to make
sure not to disconnect
brake lines, exhaust, etc. so I'd rather pay a half
hour more labor than
that $30 in gaskets, brake fluid, etc.
But I must
admit that you guys on the list are good. Upgrade "just" the
rear
anti-sway bar and you get some twitchiness like some of you knew
would
happen. Under 40 mph I could do lots of side-to-side steering and
it
felt actually quite normally (enough to make someone sea sick I
imagine) but
I could also tell that pulling out of the dealer lot,
turning sharp corners
at low speed, etc. was easier to get the car
around the corner. Well, I
am hoping it is easier since I am $400
lighter now and I want to think I got
my money's worth.
Not much experimentation between 40 mph and 65 mph
until I hit the
Interstate (roads are wet today from what Rich had
yesterday). Above 65
mph it felt weird but also unsafe. I would
see not much movement out
the windshield of the cars in front of me when
steering side to side
maybe 1/4-1/2 a lane worth (like a gentle swerve) but
could see cars 1/4
mile behind me move about half an inch side to side in the
rearview
mirror. This means the rear of the car is moving more side to
side than
the front, right? It was neat but I wouldn't want to do an
evasive move
at those speeds. Definite feeling of oversteering (like
you have skinny
tires back there at triple the recommended pressure just
anxiously
awaiting a chance to break loose). I just think of that
arcade game
where you sit and have a steering wheel and pedals (Cruise
Control
maybe?) and they have the 3000GT in there except their 3000GT is
the
never-seen RWD model (like Gran Tourismo I think). Well I am not
too
far from that I bet.
But on my test roads that are semi twisty and
small elevation changes it
felt fun and I could steer in almost too late for
the turn but still
make it. The roads were damp this evening but not
too wet and the tires
helped but I'm not sure how to describe it since I
didn't push it hard.
On another set of small carousel turns I could feel the
rear tires or
the inside or outside rear wheel trying to dig in to the
pavement more
and it felt like it was wanting to sit down and dig in rather
than
follow the front and track around the turn and lean to the
outside.
These were under 45 mph though.
Entering a turn over 65 mph
and turning hard will most likely produce
oversteer at this point.
Entering below 45 mph seemed to feel good
though. This is still stock
suspension and stock front anti-sway bar.
I am making provisions to have a
friend who makes the strut tower bars
meet me this weekend so we can put on a
front strut tower bar and see if
that makes it feel more neutral. If
not then we'll need to put on the
front anti-sway bar.
I'm trying not
to add the strut tower bars permanently yet until the
suspension gets in
(Tein HA). Would anyone have thoughts on how adding
suspension to the
mix will affect things? If all I do is increase
shocks and spring rates
then won't it increase it all more or less
evenly? It will take more to
make it lean but won't it still have a
tendency to repeat what I'm doing now
at the stock setup? I don't want
to have to put on the suspension and
then go through the anti-sway bar
trick and strut tower bar trick
again.
- --Flash!
1995 VR-4
Upgraded rear anti-sway bar only for
testing purposes
>-----Original Message-----
>From:
merritt@cedar-rapids.net>Sent:
Tuesday, February 19, 2002 18:49
>
>Just got back from Denny's
Mufflers after a six-hour ordeal.
>
>It takes 2.5 hours to do the
front bar and 2.5 hours to do the rear
bar,
>plus an hour of adjusting,
fiddling, filling fluids, etc. This is at a
>shop
>with a lift,
power tools, and lots of help figuring out stuff, such as
>how
>to
wiggle the bars in and out, or prying up on the exhaust, or
holding
>up
>the rear suspension, etc.
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 21 Feb 2002 19:06:37
-0500
From: "Darren Schilberg" <
dschilberg@pobox.com>
Subject: RE:
Team3S: Rims
I don't know where you got the "chrome" phrase from,
Chris. My chrome
wheels are both from Mitsu and I think the stock
wheels appear cast as I
can see the mold lines inside the spokes that give
away where the
parting line is. If they are forged then someone correct
me. Since
they are cast (or forged) they are strong. Chrome is
added to the
outside and as far as I am aware ... this does not detract from
their
strength. Maybe you are talking about those cheap chrome wheels
made of
aluminum or something then chromed?
I have stock '95 VR-4 18"
and stock '97 SL (not sure if they were chrome
stock or aftermarket chrome)
but at 25# each (roughly) I doubt they are
weak.
I am only saying I
like stock wheels over your lightweight wheels. I
didn't compare stock
to Volk TE37 of Konig or anyone else's light
wheels. This is what you
meant, right?
- --Flash!
1995 VR-4 and spending money on things other
than wheels right now since
I have two sets and they are not bending on me
(yet)
- -----Original Message-----
From: Christopher Deutsch
Sent:
Thursday, February 21, 2002 17:52
That's what I'm doing, so far
it's tied. 1 (Chuck) says Volk TE37 may
be
stronger, 1 (Flash) says
stock.
I think the stock '95 and '96 TT 18 inch chrome wheels are some of
the
best
looking wheels I've ever seen, so looking good is not why I'm
looking
for
light rims.
Also, where does the saying "chrome don't
get you home" come from? I
assume
it's because they bend too
easy.
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 21 Feb 2002 19:10:19
-0500
From: "Darren Schilberg" <
dschilberg@pobox.com>
Subject: RE:
Team3S: Rims
Ahhhhh. But remember that Mitsu is not in the
aftermarket chrome wheel
business for several reasons: they can't do it real
well, they make more
money from cars, they can't do it real well, and
something else, and
they can't do it real well. Every chrome wheel I've
seen on a 3000GT
has chrome cracking and chipping (maybe 2 sets out of 90
cars this
hasn't happened to). Don't know about Dodge. And
because it is
chipping I know how thin this chrome is (not very much ... like
about
the thickness of a sheet of paper).
Don't they just hook up a
charge to the wheel and then have the chrome
particles the opposite charge so
that the chrome is applied to the wheel
or is it a bath (dipping)
process? I'm sure the real process and the
Mitsu process is
different.
- --Flash!
- -----Original Message-----
From:
Furman, Russell
Sent: Thursday, February 21, 2002 17:56
That
saying is applied for 2 reasons, 1 the process of chroming a
wheel
weakens the metal and 2 chrome wheels are generally
heavier
(thicker/more
material used) to compensate for the weakening
caused by the chroming
process.
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 22 Feb 2002 00:50:54
+0000
From:
apedenko@attbi.comSubject: RE: Team3S:
Rims
I don't know what mitsu does, but a guy a tire shop
said that to
properly chrome a wheel is a three step
process. The dip it in something
(don't remember what),
copper and chrome.
Alex.
>
Ahhhhh. But remember that Mitsu is not in the aftermarket chrome
wheel
> business for several reasons: they can't do it real well, they
make more
> money from cars, they can't do it real well, and something
else, and
> they can't do it real well. Every chrome wheel I've seen
on a 3000GT
> has chrome cracking and chipping (maybe 2 sets out of 90
cars this
> hasn't happened to). Don't know about Dodge. And
because it is
> chipping I know how thin this chrome is (not very much ...
like about
> the thickness of a sheet of paper).
>
> Don't
they just hook up a charge to the wheel and then have the chrome
>
particles the opposite charge so that the chrome is applied to the wheel
>
or is it a bath (dipping) process? I'm sure the real process and
the
> Mitsu process is different.
>
> --Flash!
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Furman, Russell
> Sent:
Thursday, February 21, 2002 17:56
>
> That saying is applied
for 2 reasons, 1 the process of chroming a wheel
> weakens the metal
and 2 chrome wheels are generally heavier
> (thicker/more
> material
used) to compensate for the weakening caused by the chroming
>
process.
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 21 Feb 2002 19:56:29
-0500
From: "Darren Schilberg" <
dschilberg@pobox.com>
Subject: RE:
Team3S: All-Wheel Steering advice
How did you even get an attachment
through? All mine bounce or get
converted to those letters. I'm
impressed with just THAT.
Anyway, this is what I have in the Skip Barber
book that I was using for
reference. I know you were making it accurate
and tilting the rear
wheels 1.5 degrees but you should make it more
pronounced for this
illustration. Otherwise the difference from
perpendicular angle (90
degrees) to the centerline of the rear wheel (non-AWS
is 8 degrees and
AWS is 9.5 degrees) looks about identical when they need to
be
exaggerated slightly. Also, I bet the front wheels can turn less on
the
AWS car since the rear wheels are helping to track around the turn
so
sure you increase the slip angle of the rear wheels but you also get
to
decrease the slip angle of the front wheels. Maybe this is how it
can
work.
Thanks for the illustration though. They are worth
several thousand
words.
- --Flash!
1995 VR-4
-
-----Original Message-----
From:
pvg1@daimlerchrysler.com
[mailto:pvg1@daimlerchrysler.com]
Sent: Thursday, February 21, 2002
17:37
I am going to run a risk of getting yelled at by the admins,
but I am
going
to send a couple of pics to the list. I think this is the
kind of case
when
an illustration is worth a thousand words. (besides the
two files are
just
7K, I hope they go through). If you flip back and forth
between the two
pictured you will see the difference between the AWS and the
non-AWS
systems. Maybe someone could make an animated GIF.
It looks
like the advantage of the AWS system in a turn is that it cuts
back on the
unnecessary yaw and fishtailing. You start turning earlier
because all the
wheels engage and start carrying the lateral load
simultaneously. And when
you exit out of the turn all you have to do it
straighten the steering wheel
and you are going straight!
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 21 Feb 2002 18:36:57
-0700
From: Wayne <
whietala@prodigy.net>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: Triangle Window Flaking & Headlight Covers
To get those
Triangle panels off, you have to remove quite a bit of stuff
Upper and lower
interior panels
Window weatherstrip
Metal under weatherstrip
Front/top
exterior pillar
Rear exterior pillar
The plastic on the headlights
cannot be removed without cutting them apart.
The clips are there to make you
think you can
Wayne
At 05:13 PM 2/21/02 -0500, Daniel Koczera
wrote:
>I bought a '94 3000GT SL nt in 2000 with only 17k miles on
it. It was
>and still in pristine shape. The only cosmetic problems
were/are:
>1. the black triangle shaped door window on the drivers side -
the black
>
>has peeled off on what seems to be an inner
layer. I found dealers with
>
>a replacement, but I wondered
how difficult it is to replace (I'm an
>accident waiting to happen when I
have tools in my hands) Can I take it
>
>to a local body shop
and have the work done there?
>2. The plastic (glass?) exterior
covers on the headlights could be
>cleaned on the inside or, if needed,
replaced. Are the covers sold
>separate from the headlight
assembly? I noticed several clips that
>appear to hold the cover to
the assembly, surely there's more to it than
>
>that? If not
perhaps I'd give it a try. I appreciate any
advice.
>Dan
>
>footnote: - 17K when I bought it 2 years ago -
just took it in for the
>60K maintenance (can't pamper it as did the
original owner) added a
>Borla exhaust, replaced 4 warped rotors (w
Powerslot), replaced the
>water pump, plugs/wires etc. I'd already
added 18" konig wheels and
>Nitto tires last summer and use the originals
for winter wheels. WV
>hills can get pretty slippery in the
winter.
>
>--
>Dan Koczera
>Communication Management,
Inc.
>116 Eastland Drive
>Charles Town, WV
25414
>304/725-0384
>304/728-3040
(Fax)
>commgt@intrepid.net
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 21 Feb 2002 20:01:52
-0600
From: "Christopher Deutsch" <
crdeutsch@mn.mediaone.net>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Rims
It's a pretty common phrase so that's why I was
asking. I want to know
because I'd like to be able to take my car out
to the track, and like you
said I don't want them bending or breaking.
I value you and the other road
racers opinions so I'd like to know before I
spend a bunch of money. I'm
running stock 17s right now, but am looking
for something geared towards
performance. If the stock ones are fine
then great! I apologize if my
emails sounded like I don't beleive you,
I just want what's best for my car.
Thanks for the advise and sharing
your experiences.
Christopher
- ----- Original Message -----
From:
"Darren Schilberg" <
dschilberg@pobox.com>
To: <
Team3S@stealth-3000gt.st>
Sent:
Thursday, February 21, 2002 6:06 PM
Subject: RE: Team3S: Rims
> I
don't know where you got the "chrome" phrase from, Chris. My
chrome
> wheels are both from Mitsu and I think the stock wheels appear
cast as I
> can see the mold lines inside the spokes that give away where
the
> parting line is. If they are forged then someone correct
me. Since
> they are cast (or forged) they are strong. Chrome
is added to the
> outside and as far as I am aware ... this does not
detract from their
> strength. Maybe you are talking about those
cheap chrome wheels made of
> aluminum or something then
chromed?
>
> I have stock '95 VR-4 18" and stock '97 SL (not sure if
they were chrome
> stock or aftermarket chrome) but at 25# each (roughly)
I doubt they are
> weak.
>
> I am only saying I like stock
wheels over your lightweight wheels. I
> didn't compare stock to
Volk TE37 of Konig or anyone else's light
> wheels. This is what you
meant, right?
>
> --Flash!
> 1995 VR-4 and spending money on
things other than wheels right now since
> I have two sets and they are
not bending on me (yet)
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From:
Christopher Deutsch
> Sent: Thursday, February 21, 2002
17:52
>
> That's what I'm doing, so far it's tied. 1 (Chuck)
says Volk TE37 may
> be
> stronger, 1 (Flash) says
stock.
>
> I think the stock '95 and '96 TT 18 inch chrome wheels
are some of the
> best
> looking wheels I've ever seen, so looking
good is not why I'm looking
> for
> light rims.
>
>
Also, where does the saying "chrome don't get you home" come from?
I
> assume
> it's because they bend too easy.
***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 21 Feb 2002 18:03:56
-0800
From: "dakken" <
dougusmagnus@attbi.com>
Subject:
Team3S: Thermo Tec exhaust tape questions.
In short my questions
are: Has anyone used the Thermo Tec exhaust tape or
the turbo kit on
their car? If so have you had any problems with it?
I have a 87
Toyota Celica GT-S that I used the exhaust tape on in 94. It
worked so
well that if I drove on the highway for more than 20 minutes, my
exhaust
manifold would be glowing red hot. I had a little performance boost
and
it made it much easier to work on the car right after driving or with
the
engine running (I could work around the exhaust manifold without gloves
and
not burn my hand if I accidentally touched the manifold). The bad
thing
is that after 2 years my exhaust manifold had 4 major cracks in it and
was
so brittle that nearly every mount on it broke as the manifold was
being
removed. I definately don't want to repeat that with my new
Stealth.
Doug
92 Stealth RT TT
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 21 Feb 2002 18:37:45
-0800
From: "Pete" <
pbozanich@hotmail.com>
Subject:
Team3S: boost controller
I just received a dual stage boost controller
(turboxs),bov,dn Y pipe and
guages from steve at 3sx what a nice guy. The
question I have is installing
the boost controller is there any other info
for installing it in our cars
the directions say to hook it to the positive
pressure side of the turbo to
the waste gate actuator. Thats fine but don't
we have to do it to both
turbos? Im sure you do but the directions are pretty
vague. Also Im going to
install a supra pump this weekend, I still have stock
turbos and injectors,
but I think with adding the boost controller,along with
the K&N, stillen
down pipe, borla exhaust, gutted pre-cat thats already
on the car it can't
but help. Any input would be greatly appreciated. Off the
subject one of my
best friends bought a new black murcielago today it will be
delivered
tomorrow. I should get to drive it this weekend since Im also his
insurance
agent. I have this deal if I insure it I get to drive it. Ive been
pretty
lucky the last couple months, another buddy of mine bought a new 911
turbo
its the poster car F1 shifting and everything. Then my attorney bought
the #
50 Earnhart SS camaro signed tach dynoed at 420 hp. Then here I am with
my
91 VR4
thanks,
Pete
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 21 Feb 2002 21:33:15
-0500
From: "Darren Schilberg" <
dschilberg@pobox.com>
Subject: RE:
Team3S: Rims
Christopher,
No apology necessary,
honest. I know what you were saying. I just
don't think Mitsu
does a full-out chrome job like this motorcycle shop
down the street. I
see parts on a Harley still perfect chrome after 20
years. Mine can't
go 3 years before cracking. And since this is not as
technical and you
wanted feedback from the road racers then I'm copying
the other list here for
some feedback and it should probably die slowly
on Team3S.
I
just haven't had the money to upgrade wheels yet so am using
stock
ones. If money were no object then I would get the forged ones
that I
see on the Trans-Am Series cars or Porsche GT1 cars. They look
nearly
solid with all those spokes. They sure must take a beating going
2
hours all-out racing. Light? No. Strong? You
bet.
- --Flash!
1995 VR-4
- -----Original Message-----
From:
owner-team3s@team3s.com
[mailto:owner-team3s@team3s.com] On Behalf
Of Christopher Deutsch
Sent:
Thursday, February 21, 2002 21:02
To:
Team3S@stealth-3000gt.stSubject:
Re: Team3S: Rims
It's a pretty common phrase so that's why I was
asking. I want to know
because I'd like to be able to take my car out
to the track, and like
you
said I don't want them bending or
breaking. I value you and the other
road
racers opinions so I'd like
to know before I spend a bunch of money.
I'm
running stock 17s right now,
but am looking for something geared towards
performance. If the stock
ones are fine then great! I apologize if my
emails sounded like I don't
beleive you, I just want what's best for my
car.
Thanks for the advise
and sharing your experiences.
Christopher
- ----- Original Message
-----
From: "Darren Schilberg" <
dschilberg@pobox.com>
To: <
Team3S@stealth-3000gt.st>
Sent:
Thursday, February 21, 2002 6:06 PM
Subject: RE: Team3S: Rims
> I
don't know where you got the "chrome" phrase from, Chris. My
chrome
> wheels are both from Mitsu and I think the stock wheels appear
cast as
I
> can see the mold lines inside the spokes that give away
where the
> parting line is. If they are forged then someone correct
me. Since
> they are cast (or forged) they are strong. Chrome
is added to the
> outside and as far as I am aware ... this does not
detract from their
> strength. Maybe you are talking about those
cheap chrome wheels made
of
> aluminum or something then
chromed?
>
> I have stock '95 VR-4 18" and stock '97 SL (not sure if
they were
chrome
> stock or aftermarket chrome) but at 25# each
(roughly) I doubt they
are
> weak.
>
> I am only saying I
like stock wheels over your lightweight wheels. I
> didn't compare
stock to Volk TE37 of Konig or anyone else's light
> wheels. This is
what you meant, right?
>
> --Flash!
> 1995 VR-4 and spending
money on things other than wheels right now
since
> I have two sets and
they are not bending on me (yet)
>
> -----Original
Message-----
> From: Christopher Deutsch
> Sent: Thursday, February
21, 2002 17:52
>
> That's what I'm doing, so far it's tied. 1
(Chuck) says Volk TE37 may
> be
> stronger, 1 (Flash) says
stock.
>
> I think the stock '95 and '96 TT 18 inch chrome wheels
are some of the
> best
> looking wheels I've ever seen, so looking
good is not why I'm looking
> for
> light rims.
>
>
Also, where does the saying "chrome don't get you home" come from?
I
> assume
> it's because they bend too easy.
***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 21 Feb 2002 18:37:49
-0800
From: "fastmax" <
fastmax@cox.net>
Subject: Re: Team3S:
Rims
The chroming of a wheel should have no affect on it performance ---
It's
simply a polishing and electroplating process --- polish,
copper,nickel,
polish and a final chrome plating.
I've never heard the
term 'chrome won't get you home' but my guess is that
it's more generic in
nature --- chrome engine parts won't make the car run
better, they're for
looks only.
Geoff Mohler bent a set or two of rims during autox runs but
I don't remember
what type they were. Another big issue is tire profile ---
you're much more
likely to damage a rim with a 35 series tire than a 45 or
55 series. I run
Enkie RP01's on the track and have had no problems even
with big reds,
Hoosier race tires, and fairly serious suspension mods. For
the first session
or two I run my stock 94 VR4 rims [ my car is a 93TT
Stealth ] with Yokohama
AO32's.
There are plenty of wheels out there
that are light [ my Enkies are 20# and
cheap ] but the price goes up as the
quality increases --- forged wheels are
$500 each and
up.
Jim
Berry
=================================================
- ----- Original
Message -----
From: "Christopher Deutsch" <
crdeutsch@mn.mediaone.net>
>
It's a pretty common phrase so that's why I was asking. I want to
know
> because I'd like to be able to take my car out to the track, and
like you
> said I don't want them bending or breaking. I value you
and the other road
> racers opinions so I'd like to know before I spend a
bunch of money. I'm
> running stock 17s right now, but am looking
for something geared towards
> performance. If the stock ones are
fine then great! I apologize if my
> emails sounded like I don't
beleive you, I just want what's best for my car.
>
> Thanks for the
advise and sharing your experiences.
> Christopher
***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 21 Feb 2002 18:44:47
-0800
From: "Gross, Erik" <
erik.gross@intel.com>
Subject: RE:
Team3S: boost controller
If you install the Supra pump without an
adjustable fuel pressure regulator
or an electronic fuel controller (i.e.
S-AFC) you will run rich at idle (and
probably WOT, too).
For
the boost controller, splice the boost sensing line into the vacuum hose
to
the FPR (blue stripe - *before* the solenoid). The wastegate line TO
the
boost controller should come from the nipple on the y-pipe (disconnect
the
black line with the red end) and the wastegate line FROM the
boost
controller should connect to the black line (with the red end) that
you
disconnected from the y-pipe. Then disconnect and plug the hoses
(white
stripe on one) that attach to the stock boost control solenoid (on
firewall
behind throttle body, farthest one toward driver's side).
-
--Erik
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 21 Feb 2002 20:49:00
-0600
From: "Christopher Deutsch" <
crdeutsch@mn.mediaone.net>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Gauges
Damn. I just looked at the ad again and your
right. I guess it's only an
EGT if your exhaust gas temps are running
below 150 degrees C. :O
Too bad. It's a nice looking set of
gauges. Hopefully someone will come
out with something similar for EGT
and A/F.
Christopher
- ----- Original Message -----
From:
"Roger Gerl" <
roger.gerl@bluewin.ch>
To:
"'Team3S List (E-mail)'" <
team3S@stealth-3000gt.st>
Sent:
Thursday, February 21, 2002 4:08 PM
Subject: Re: Team3S: Gauges
>
Also no EGT.
>
> Roger
> 93'3000GT TT
>
www.rtec.ch>
> ----- Original Message
-----
> From: "Christopher Deutsch" <
crdeutsch@mn.mediaone.net>
>
To: "'Team3S List (E-mail)'" <
team3S@stealth-3000gt.st>
>
Sent: Thursday, February 21, 2002 10:52 PM
> Subject: RE: Team3S:
Gauges
>
> > Oops, yeah, the face is 64mm. The back is
60mm. My mistake.
> > Christopher
> >
> >
>
> > > It says 60mm under description on their site.
>
> >
> > > -----Original Message-----
> > > From:
Christopher Deutsch [mailto:crdeutsch@mn.mediaone.net]
> > > Sent:
Thursday, February 21, 2002 2:39 PM
> > > To: 'Team3S List
(E-mail)'
> > > Subject: RE: Team3S: Gauges
***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 21 Feb 2002 19:18:17
-0800
From: "fastmax" <
fastmax@cox.net>
Subject: Re: Team3S:
Thermo Tec exhaust tape questions.
No --- But I've heard that wraping
some of the SS headers can result in
cracked headers. Some of the racer types
ues it to get the last erg of
energy out of the system but they rebuild there
car every other day so
it probably isn't an issue.