Team3S: 3000GT & Stealth Tuesday, February 19 2002
Volume 01 : Number
758
----------------------------------------------------------------------
Date:
Mon, 18 Feb 2002 22:27:04 -0500
From: "Aamer" <
aamer@thepentagon.com>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Engine Noise
Sounds to me like the infamous ticking we have
on our cars from the lifters.
Are you sure it's not more of a "ticking" sound
instead of a "thumping"
sound?
If so, Matt Jannusch posted a reply
earlier today with the subject "RE:
Team3S: Valve lash" -- refer to that post
for more information. If you can't
find this post, you can find some
information about valve ticking in the FAQ
on the Team3S
website.
Basically, this is a long time problem on this list ... most
people seem to
have luck using Mobil 1 or Amsoil brand syntethic oils changed
at very
regular intervals, but you can find a lot more information if you
search
through the list's archives via the Team3S website.
Aamer
Abbas
'94 3000GT (DOHC -- Naturally Aspirated)
email:
aamer@thepentagon.comfax: (707)
982-8817 [add +1 country code if faxing from outside the
United
States]
- ----- Original Message -----
From: "ChaosCat"
<
chaoscat@plazma.net>
To:
"Team3S" <
Team3S@stealth-3000gt.st>
Sent:
Monday, February 18, 2002 9:55 PM
Subject: Re: Team3S: Engine
Noise
> We already looked at that-the cover was fine. (we took it off
and looked
at it)
> it kinda goes with the engine as it revs and
either gets drowned out or
> quits at higher rpms-its heard the most when
idliing.
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 19 Feb 2002 17:38:23
+1300
From: "Steve Cooper" <
scooper@paradise.net.nz>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: '95 ECU
> What do the output drivers do?
They drive
the boost control solenoid, FPR solenoid, EGR solenoid
etc.
Steve
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 18 Feb 2002 23:53:15
-0500
From: "Darren Schilberg" <
dschilberg@pobox.com>
Subject: RE:
Team3S: Valve lash.
I got an email about this just today since my name
is attached to the
FAQ page (still don't know how that happened).
Anyway, this one was
solved in a few easy steps but the person also just
changed the oil so
that helped some I think.
I thought the ticking was
just a feature and rather enjoyed it sometimes
and only when it got real loud
did it mean I was 0.5 quart or 1.0 quart
low so I checked and sure enough it
was low.
I have heard of people using stock, K&N, and Amsoil oil
filters ... and
then Mobil 1, Amsoil, and RedLine synthetic oil and normal
oil 10W30,
10W40, and other weights. I think it is just a combination
of
environment, what shape the engine is in, how you drive it, how you
care
for it (sometimes the engines that go 6 months without oil checking
is
the one that doesn't tick which doesn't make sense sometimes).
I
don't know if the ticking is from an increase in oil pressure or a
drop in
pressure, because oil is more slippery and lubricating or the
less viscous
oil coats better. Most people just say theirs is ticking
and what can I
suggest and that it helped or didn't. I haven't kept
track of who has
done what but maybe if people come back and tell me
what you did and what it
did then I'll keep track and try to update the
FAQ page.
-
--Flash!
1995 VR-4
Oil change two weekends ago with Amsoil 10W30 synthetic
oil and Amsoil
oil filter change and currently no ticking after 1,800
miles
- -----Original Message-----
From: Jannusch, Matt
Sent:
Monday, February 18, 2002 19:25
There's TONS of information in the
list Archives... Including fixes.
It
doesn't really hurt anything,
but it may cause some loss of performance
if
it ticks while
driving.
There's also a FAQ on it, although it isn't as complete as the
Archive
information.
http://www.team3s.com/FAQliftertick.htmThere
isn't much more to be said about it that hasn't been said
already.
:-)
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 19 Feb 2002 00:10:20
-0500
From: "Philip V. Glazatov" <
gphilip@umich.edu>
Subject: Team3S:
Intercooler question
Hi guys,
I have a question about intercoolers
if you could help me. I bought that
Skyline R33 FMIC on Ebay and I do not
know if I want to keep it. That guy
lied to me about the thickness of the
core. He said that it was 3.5" but it
is only 2-3/8". I was about to send it
back to him but I just saw that
Spearco has those new 3-xxx cores with
internal fins that are supposed to
be really efficient for their size. I
checked the Skyline IC and it has
fins too. Do any of the Apexi cores have
fins inside?
Does anyone know the flow rating of the Skyline FMIC? Anyone
wants it for
$575 shipped? It's in perfect shape, the size is 23-1/2" wide x
10-5/8"
tall x 2-3/8" thick.
Philip
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 19 Feb 2002 18:50:51
+1300
From: "Steve Cooper" <
scooper@paradise.net.nz>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Intercooler question
- ----- Original Message -----
From:
"Philip V. Glazatov" <
gphilip@umich.edu>
To: <
team3s@team3s.com>
Sent: Tuesday,
February 19, 2002 6:10 PM
Subject: Team3S: Intercooler question
Any
questions re Skylines, post them here.
http://forums.skylinesdownunder.co.nz/You
could search the old posts.
Steve
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 19 Feb 2002 06:01:08
+0000
From:
apedenko@attbi.comSubject: Team3S:
Fidanza flywheel
For those of you that are interested - check this
out:
A new fidanza flywheel for the tt's. It was goin' for
$100 when
i saw it. Dynamic Racing want something like
$450 for it
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/aw-cgi/eBayISAPI.dll?
ViewItem&item=1806208403
Alex.
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 19 Feb 2002 01:06:27
-0500
From: "Darren Schilberg" <
dschilberg@pobox.com>
Subject: RE:
Team3S: Engine Noise
After chatting with Cat about this we came to some
conclusions.
The "thumping" is mostly at idle but goes up some with
engine revs and
is either drowned out at higher revs or
disappears.
However, since it only appears about once every second and a
half and at
1,200 rpm that would mean each piston is going around 1,200
rpms/6 or
200 times a minute or 200/60 which is about 3.33 times per
second. So
it is not the pistons. The crank would go around once
for every 6
pistons so it isn't the crank. The flywheel shouldn't be
moving at idle
(only engaged in gear, right?).
How about something
like the harmonic balancer or other things in the
engine that are moving
around? The sound is coming from the driver's
side but I don't know
where things like that are located. What else is
going round and round
when the engine is turning?
By the way ... oil is clean and changed
within a few weeks as the car
was recently purchased from a dealer who got it
from a dealer from an
auction and since the thumping doesn't get louder when
you take off the
oil cap then it isn't the dreaded ticking we all know and
love.
So what do the engine gurus out there guess is the next
step?
- --Flash!
1995 VR-4 and no ticking
- -----Original
Message-----
From: ChaosCat
Sent: Monday, February 18, 2002
20:00
I'm new to the list.. just bought a 1992 Dodge Stealth RT two
weeks ago,
took it to Dodge to have them replace the timing belt (as I had
no
previous
history on the car) and after having my car there for 2 days
they told
me
the belt didnt need to be replaced, and that the car had
recently had a
tune up, blah blah...
well, I got my car back and there
is a thumping noise coming from the
engine on the drivers side. Dodge says
they didnt do it-and they dont
know
what it is.
Anyone here have
an idea? Any help would be greatly
appreciated.
thanks,
Cat
ICQ# 4096904
***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 19 Feb 2002 01:13:28
-0500
From: "Darren Schilberg" <
dschilberg@pobox.com>
Subject: RE:
Team3S: Fidanza flywheel
And for info about them ... I was at a local
track when a shiny yellow
Z06 Vette pulled into the garage where I was
swapping back to street
tires. He mentioned that he had parts for the
3000GT as well as all the
DSM cars. I liked how he knew what car I had
without even looking. He
had a brochure about Fidanza flywheels and had
one for a 3000GT with
him. What are the chances!?
So we chatted
and he used to own the track but then sold it but still
gets to come back for
photo opportunities when necessary. They were
doing a video ad for
their flywheels in this particular Vette. So I got
to watch a few nice
runs of that car on the track.
Great folks and I'll contact them when I
ever upgrade to a lightened
flywheel. I forget now all of the good
things he said about it but when
comparing to other flywheels the Fidanza is
definitely worth a look.
(I am not affiliated with them so I get no
commission but was just
really supportive of them since they were quite
helpful and
knowledgeable and willing to work with someone for a special case
if
necessary).
- --Flash!
1995 VR-4
- -----Original
Message-----
From:
apedenko@attbi.comSent: Tuesday,
February 19, 2002 01:01
For those of you that are interested -
check this out:
A new fidanza flywheel for the tt's. It was goin' for
$100 when i saw it. Dynamic Racing want something like
$450 for
it
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/aw-cgi/eBayISAPI.dll?
ViewItem&item=1806208403
***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 18 Feb 2002 23:34:11
-0800
From: "dakken" <
dougusmagnus@attbi.com>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Valve lash.
> I don't think the manual calls for anything
much above 10w40 but being in
> Texas, I wonder how 20w50 would do in it?
Might get less tick...
I recently bought a 92 Stealth RT TT. It had
pretty bad valve lash. A
friend at work who used to own one told me to
use 20w50. I did and I have
not heard it ever since. Also my oil
pressure is significantly higher and
the engine revs much
smoother.
Doug
Red 92 Stealth RT TT
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 19 Feb 2002 03:44:48
-0500
From: "Darren Schilberg" <
dschilberg@pobox.com>
Subject:
Team3S: All-Wheel Steering advice
Does anyone know above what speed the
AWS is "active" and if it is =
gradual?
I thought I read somewhere that it
slowly increases the steering of the =
rear
wheels up to a max of 3
degrees and is related to the steepness that the
front wheels are
turned. For example, if you steer at 5 degrees in the
front then will
the rear turn 0 degrees? If the front is 20 degrees are =
the
rear
at 1 degree? What is the relation?
I need to know if the skid I
experienced tonight was driver error, road
error, or the rear wheels
beginning to steer into the turn thus giving =
the
impression that the
rear of the car was stepping out. Need to get some
people who have
learned and practiced it and not just gotten the back =
end to
skid out
unknowingly. I plan to duplicate it but not in the exact same
scenario
as I did tonight (co-driver was most gracious and helpful but =
we
need
some extra input).
The car escaped unharmed but my pride and ego got a
little dented.
- --Flash!
1995 VR-4 and a little nervous now of
approaching the 25 mph turn at 75 =
mph
again
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 19 Feb 2002 22:08:39
+1300
From: "Steve Cooper" <
scooper@paradise.net.nz>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: All-Wheel Steering advice
Does anyone know above what speed
the AWS is "active"
I think it comes on at 50km/h, 30
mph.
Steve
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 19 Feb 2002 22:10:35
+1300
From: "Steve Cooper" <
scooper@paradise.net.nz>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Engine Noise
> . The flywheel shouldn't be moving at
idle
> (only engaged in gear, right?).
The flywheel is attached to
the crankshaft.
Steve
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 19 Feb 2002 08:37:23
-0500
From: "Berrios, Victor L CIV" <
VLBerrios@rroads.med.navy.mil>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: NEWBIE need help
You are always welcome.
"Disfruta tu VR-4
con 'Full Boost' ahora."
(Enjoy your VR-4 at full boost
now)
Saludos!
Victor
'96 Pearl White VR-4, PR
-
-----Original Message-----
From: raul cinelli
[mailto:raulcinelli@yahoo.com]
Sent: Friday, February 15, 2002 7:33 AM
To:
Berrios, Victor L CIV
Subject: RE: Team3S: NEWBIE need
help
Victor,
I want to thank you for the info, it was accurate,
it
was the hose with the shape of a "Y" that was loose.
Thanks a lot
!
Raul
95 VR4
- --- "Berrios, Victor L CIV"
<
VLBerrios@rroads.med.navy.mil>
wrote:
> Hi Raul:
> One more thing, you'll probably get the
"check
> engine" light on. To reset
> the light, unplug the battery
terminals for a while
> (Make sure you have the
> security code of
your radio).
> As I told you in the private message, let me know
if
> you further help in
> Spanish.
>
> "Suerte" (Good
Luck)
>
> Victor
> '96 VR-4
>
>
>
-----Original Message-----
> From: cody
[mailto:overclck@satx.rr.com]
> Sent: Monday, February 11, 2002 5:27
AM
> To: 'raul cinelli';
Team3S@stealth-3000gt.st>
Subject: RE: Team3S: NEWBIE need help
>
>
> Raul, this is a
very simple fix to this problem. It
> is most likely an
>
intercooler pipe that has come loose somewhere in
> the system. If
you
> need more help (in Spanish if you need it), Message
> me
directly, and
> hopefully I can help. (my girlfriend is 100%
>
bilingual, and translates
> very well)
>
> -Cody
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From:
owner-team3s@team3s.com>
[mailto:owner-team3s@team3s.com] On Behalf
> Of raul cinelli
> Sent:
Sunday, February 10, 2002 11:23 PM
> To:
Team3S@stealth-3000gt.st>
Subject: Team3S: NEWBIE need help
> > > Hi, my name is Raul Cinelli,
1 year ago I
> > contacted
> > > you with my first question
and after that, I
> have
> > > been
> > >
"disconected" from the net, due to personal
> > > problems.
>
> > (I am sorry about my english, I speak spanish).
> > > I
live in Argentina, South America, and there
> are
> > > only a
few 3000 GT around so nobody knows a lot
> > about this cars.
>
> > Mine is a 1995 mitsubishi 3000 GT VR4. withe
> >
pearl.
> > >
> > > The problem started yesterday. I was
traveling
> in
> > a
> > > freeway and decided to go
down to 3rd gear and
> > push
> > > the throtle to the 6500
revs, after that, I
> > switched
> > > to 4 gear and 2 or 3
seconds after that, I
> noticed
> > > that the car turned off
for a second and then
> came
> > > back inmediately, 2 or 3
seconds after that, the
> > > problem came back but this time it was
clearly
> > that
> > > the car will turn off definitely so
I put it on
> > the
> > > side of the freeway and at the
time it was going
>
> > > slowly, the engine was failing and
then turned
> > off.
> > > I tryied to start it again, and
the symptoms I
> > found
> > > was:
> > > - the
car started again, but inmediately start
> > > failing and turned
off. This occured several
> > times,
> > always the
same.
> > > - If I pushed the throtle a lot more, the car
>
kept
> > > running for a few seconds, but inmediately after
>
I
> > > stoped to push the throtle a lot, it went off.
> >
> - During this start and turn off thing, I
> noticed
> > >
that when I slow down the revs, inmediately it
> > sounds
> >
> like it was going to turn off, at that moment,
> it
> > >
was a BLACK fume coming from the exhaust.
> > > - Also, when the
revs go down, the Turbos gauge
> > > started to go up, a lot. When I
pushed the
> throtle
> > a
> > > little more, the
gauge went down a little, and
> the
> > > same all the
time.
> > > - I waited for an hour or two, and after that, I
>
> > tryed again to start the car. The same exactly
> > symptoms
was found, BUT, the engine kept running
> for
> > a
> >
little more time without turning off, but the same
> > symptoms
appeared, the revs went UP and DOWN
> second
> > after second
even with the throtle free, I mean, I
> > did
> > not push the
throtle at all, and I saw the revs
> went
> > up
> >
> and down , (up to 3000 and down to 1500).
> > > When the revs
went to 1500 it sounds like it was
> > going to turn off, and then,
whne it goes up to
> 2500
> > it sounds good, like if there was
no problem. The
> > gauge act exactly the same as in the freeway,
when
> > the
> > revs went down, the gauge went up, and vice
versa.
> > >
> > > Can you please help me with this
problem ?
> > > Please, let me know what you think and what
>
parts
> > > you think I may need to replace and if you know
>
> their
> > > prices it would help me a lot.
> > >
> > > Thanks,
> > >
> > > Raul
Cinelli
> > > 95 Mitsubishi 3000 GT VR4
> > > withe
pearl
> > Argentina
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 19 Feb 2002 08:35:38
-0600
From: "Black, Dave (ICT)" <
dblai@allstate.com>
Subject: RE:
Team3S: All-Wheel Steering advice
Darren,
I believe in the manual
it says AWS is active at 40 or 45 mph. It is
same-phase and turns a max
of 1.5°. I'm not sure about the relation of
front to rear.
Dave
95VR4
http://www.daveblack.net>
-----Original Message-----
> From: Darren Schilberg
[SMTP:dschilberg@pobox.com]
> Sent: Tuesday, February 19, 2002 2:45
AM
> To: 'Team3S';
3sracers@speedtoys.com> Subject:
Team3S: All-Wheel Steering advice
>
> Does anyone know above what
speed the AWS is "active" and if it is
> gradual? I thought I read
somewhere that it slowly increases the steering
> of the rear wheels up to
a max of 3 degrees and is related to the
> steepness that the front wheels
are turned. For example, if you steer at
> 5 degrees in the front
then will the rear turn 0 degrees? If the front is
> 20 degrees are
the rear at 1 degree? What is the relation?
>
> I need to
know if the skid I experienced tonight was driver error, road
> error, or
the rear wheels beginning to steer into the turn thus giving the
>
impression that the rear of the car was stepping out. Need to get
some
> people who have learned and practiced it and not just gotten the
back end
> to skid out unknowingly. I plan to duplicate it but not
in the exact same
> scenario as I did tonight (co-driver was most gracious
and helpful but we
> need some extra input).
>
> The car
escaped unharmed but my pride and ego got a little dented.
>
>
--Flash!
> 1995 VR-4 and a little nervous now of approaching the 25 mph
turn at 75
> mph again
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 19 Feb 2002 09:43:28
-0500 (EST)
From:
gtg509d@prism.gatech.eduSubject:
Team3S: looking for seat covers/baby seat for black '91 stealth
Hey
Everybody,
I'm trying to find a source to get seat covers for the front
seats of a
black '91 Stealth RT (currently cracking charcoal leather).
Also, before I can
get the car, I need to see if they make baby seats for
the back seats, and if
so, how much they cost and where to get them (for
future reference). Thanks.
Best,
Michael
Atlanta,
GA
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 19 Feb 2002 08:44:35
-0600
From: "Christopher Deutsch" <
crdeutsch@mn.mediaone.net>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: '95 ECU
This ones on sale for $3150. :(
http://www.lockmasters.com/store/prod_detail.asp?id=20I
guess I'll have to start selling Girl Scout cookies again.
;-O
Christopher
>
> Anybody else know how to get
one?
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 19 Feb 2002 08:45:25
-0600
From: "Willis, Charles E." <
cewillis@TexasChildrensHospital.org>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: Quick question on further diagnostics of active suspe nsion
system
spray some electrical contact cleaner in the harness conection and
the top
of the strut.
As for the twisting, if you remove the rear
strut you will see a large brass
washer that has an arrow on it and a hole in
it with a flat side. Since the
top of the strut is flat-sided, this
washer indicates the orientation of the
strut. When we first installed
the GC kits, we found that the struts gave
us error codes if the arrow was
aligned forward or rearward, but worked when
aligned inboard or
outboard.
Good luck!
Chuck Willis
> -----Original
Message-----
> From: Eric Cheek [SMTP:echeek@cox-internet.com]
>
Sent: Friday, February 15, 2002 9:34 PM
> To: 'Team3S' (E-mail)
>
Subject: Team3S: Quick question on further diagnostics of active
>
suspension system
>
> OK, After reading Chuck Willis' post on using
an analog voltmeter, I tried
> it and the system gave me the 6 long, 3
short deflections, so I pull the
> wiring harness off the right rear
shock. (Passenger side).
> I Tested it for continuity and it tests fine.
So I'm guessing a
> twisted
> shaft? How do I check for that and is
it repairable? When I was taking the
> boot off, it struck me as strange
that the wiring came connected to the
> top
> of the shock in such a
way that the opening of the boot was facing into
> the
> rear hatch
area, instead of outward toward the side of the car. I'll see
> about
posting pictures later this weekend. Anyhow does that sound right?
>
The
> drivers side shock cover is situated so that the opening that the
wiring
> comes out towards the outside of the car. Also the cover on the
right side
> (passenger) was loose.
>
> Thanks ;)...
>
Eric Cheek 92 VR4 3Si # 1164
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 19 Feb 2002 08:48:13
-0600
From: "Willis, Charles E." <
cewillis@TexasChildrensHospital.org>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: Car won't start, please help!
Is it possible to "flood" a
fuel injected engine?
> -----Original Message-----
> From:
Marvin Rubenking [SMTP:mr54043@alltel.net]
> Sent: Sunday, February 17,
2002 9:54 PM
> To:
Team3S@stealth-3000gt.st>
Subject: Team3S: Car won't start, please help!
>
>
The
> dealer told me that I probably flooded it and I would have to remove
the
> plugs clean and reinstall.
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 19 Feb 2002 07:08:45
-0800 (PST)
From: Joe Barchesky <
gd1996@yahoo.com>
Subject: Team3S: WTB
or Trade for: Stealth RT TT or 3000GT VR4
I am still looking for one, I
was suppose to buy one a
few days ago, the car didn't sell in time, and had
a
trade lined, well he sold that car. I want something
in the 7500
or lower range, thats all I can afford
right now, possibly in the 10k range
here soon, have
another car I am selling. Anyways I'd like to find
a
91-93, in good shape, not as much concerned about the
body or interior,
I can fix this with no problem, but
want one with a good drivetrain, a newer
trans would
be good. I have a 95 trans am, book for 9500, that
I
would like to trade for one. Or I can keep trying to
sell it and
buy one outright. It has new paint, green
metallic, tan clth interior,
t-tops, 6 speed, 70k,
very nice, well maintained car, very sharp, I can
send
pics if interested. I have been over the 3si board,
nothing I
can buy at this time is on there.
Joe B
95 Trans AM for sale or
trade
89 Shelby Daytona 2.5 t2
69 Road Runner 440
68 Sport
Satellite
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 19 Feb 2002 10:12:13
-0500
From: "Darren Schilberg" <
dschilberg@pobox.com>
Subject: RE:
Team3S: Engine Noise
I think late at night my mind was thinking about the
clutch not being
engaged in idle.
So what else is down there going
round and round every second at idle
(about 700 rpm should be idle).
-
--Flash!
- -----Original Message-----
From: Steve Cooper
Sent:
Tuesday, February 19, 2002 04:11
> . The flywheel shouldn't be
moving at idle
> (only engaged in gear, right?).
The flywheel is
attached to the crankshaft.
Steve
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 19 Feb 2002 10:19:04
-0500
From: "Darren Schilberg" <
dschilberg@pobox.com>
Subject: RE:
Team3S: Car won't start, please help!
Not that I am aware of but I have
been noticing that mine does not like
to start the morning after I drive it
hard the night before. I think
that is just a coincidence though.
A friend says it might be a "cold
start sensor." I didn't dismiss that
since our cars have so many
sensors already. But if the car senses that
the block is too hot then
it won't start or won't stay started.
Obviously this has not been the
case for me since it was usually in the
morning the next day when it
happened.
But I would start the car and
it would idle around 400-500 rpm and churn
for a few seconds and then
die. I would try it again and same thing.
You can give it gas all you
want but it does not help since the car is
thinking that the block is too hot
and it overheating so it is taking
zero inputs.
Try it another time or
two and nothing and then it will catch. Then I
rev over 2,000 just to
say, "So there" and then it runs like a champ.
Not sure what to diagnose it
as. Most times it is the day after I drove
it hard the night before
coming home but this past weekend I drove hard
to a friend's house (the last
two miles) and parked for 40 minutes and
tried to leave and it
happened.
- --Flash!
1995 VR-4
84k miles and new plugs and wires at
60k
- -----Original Message-----
From: Willis, Charles E.
Sent:
Tuesday, February 19, 2002 09:48
Is it possible to "flood" a fuel
injected engine?
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Marvin
Rubenking [SMTP:mr54043@alltel.net]
> Sent: Sunday, February 17, 2002 9:54
PM
>
> The
> dealer told me that I probably
flooded it and I would have to remove
the
> plugs clean and reinstall.
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 19 Feb 2002 08:32:44
-0700
From: "Floyd, Jim" <
Jim_Floyd@maxtor.com>
Subject: RE:
Team3S: what to buy!?
My '95 has all that.
- -----Original
Message-----
From: Merritt [mailto:merritt@cedar-rapids.net]
Sent: Sunday,
February 17, 2002 10:20 PM
To: Kian Habib;
Team3S@stealth-3000gt.stSubject:
Re: Team3S: what to buy!?
A 94, of course. It's the only one that has
everything -- active
suspension, active aero, 4WS, Getrag 6 speed, and big
brakes.
Be certain to buy one with an aftermarket warranty, because the
6-speed
breaks its synchros every 60,000 miles. Also make sure the car has
had its
60,000 mile service -- timing belt and water pump.
Rich/slow
old poop/94 VR4
At 09:12 PM 2/17/02 -0800, Kian Habib
wrote:
> I am planning on buying
a 3000 GT VR-4 but I
>am not sure which year is best to buy
it.
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 19 Feb 2002 07:50:42
-0800
From: "fastmax" <
fastmax@cox.net>
Subject: Re: Team3S:
Car won't start, please help!
I had almost the same set of problems as
Darren describes --- started
out very intermittent, cold only, it would
start and die, start and die until
I could finally get the rpm up over 2000
until the engine warmed up. if
I dropped the rpm to 2K the engine would shut
off --- no stumbling no
warning just stop. I'd hear the relay under the
console click at the same
time. The check engine light would come on when it
died but no code
was entered. Over time it got so it would do it regularly
--- I rounded
up all the usual suspects with no success --- finally, I
resorted to
checking the ECU and found the capacitors oozing on my
electronics.
I replaced the caps and the problem was
eliminated.
Jim
Berry
================================================
- ----- Original
Message -----
From: "Darren Schilberg" <
dschilberg@pobox.com>
> Not
that I am aware of but I have been noticing that mine does not like
> to
start the morning after I drive it hard the night before. I think
>
that is just a coincidence though. A friend says it might be a
"cold
> start sensor." I didn't dismiss that since our cars have so
many
> sensors already. But if the car senses that the block is too
hot then
> it won't start or won't stay started. Obviously this has
not been the
> case for me since it was usually in the morning the next
day when it
> happened.
>
> But I would start the car and it
would idle around 400-500 rpm and churn
> for a few seconds and then
die. I would try it again and same thing.
> You can give it gas all
you want but it does not help since the car is
> thinking that the block
is too hot and it overheating so it is taking
> zero inputs.
>
> Try it another time or two and nothing and then it will catch.
Then I
> rev over 2,000 just to say, "So there" and then it runs like a
champ.
> Not sure what to diagnose it as. Most times it is the day
after I drove
> it hard the night before coming home but this past weekend
I drove hard
> to a friend's house (the last two miles) and parked for 40
minutes and
> tried to leave and it happened.
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 19 Feb 2002 09:02:38
-0700
From: Desert Fox <
bigfoot@simmgene.com>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: Valve lash.
Anybody else running 20w50?
- --
Paul/.
95 black 3000GT VR-4
98 VFR800F, TBR aluminum hi
exit
formerly reasonable and prudent
on 2/19/02 0:34, dakken at
dougusmagnus@attbi.com
scribbled:
>> I don't think the manual calls for anything much
above 10w40 but being in
>> Texas, I wonder how 20w50 would do in it?
Might get less tick...
>
> I recently bought a 92 Stealth RT
TT. It had pretty bad valve lash. A
> friend at work who used
to own one told me to use 20w50. I did and I have
> not heard it
ever since. Also my oil pressure is significantly higher and
> the
engine revs much smoother.
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 19 Feb 2002 08:30:59
-0800
From: "dakken" <
dougusmagnus@attbi.com>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: WTB or Trade for: Stealth RT TT or 3000GT VR4
I just bought
mine on
www.autotrader.com. It is
a 92 Stealth RT TT with
130k miles. Great condition. I had to
drive 110 miles to the dealer that
was selling it but I bought it for a steal
at $5800. I also saw another 92
Stealth RT TT with 87k miles for sale
about 60 miles away for $6000. I
would recommend using
autotrader. Be sure that you read the section on how
to inspect a used
3S on the Team3S site.
Doug
92 Stealth RT TT
***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 19 Feb 2002 10:30:35
-0600
From: "Jannusch, Matt" <
mjannusch@marketwatch.com>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: Engine Noise
> I think late at night my mind was thinking
about the clutch
> not being engaged in idle.
The clutch is always
engaged, unless you have your foot pushing down the
pedal. Likewise the
input shaft in the tranny always spins at the rate of
crank rotation unless
the clutch is disengaged.
> So what else is down there going round and
round every second
> at idle (about 700 rpm should be idle).
It
could be one of the accessory pulleys, maybe a bad bearing in one
of
them. I think the A/C compressor would be the most likely to spin
once per
second since it has a rather large pulley on it.
You could do
the garden hose as a microphone trick to try to narrow down the
location of
where the noise is coming from.
- -Matt
'95 3000GT Spyder
VR4
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 19 Feb 2002 09:30:39
-0800
From: "tri" <
thn@dexray.com>
Subject: Re: Team3S:
Valve lash.
what's 20w50 like? heavy? light?
do they make it in
synthetic? just curious if it will prolong my engine.
- ----- Original
Message -----
From: "dakken" <
dougusmagnus@attbi.com>
To:
"Desert Fox" <
bigfoot@simmgene.com>; <
mcostanza@austin.rr.com>
Cc:
"Team3S List (E-mail)" <
team3S@stealth-3000gt.st>
Sent:
Monday, February 18, 2002 11:34 PM
Subject: Re: Team3S: Valve
lash.
> > I don't think the manual calls for anything much above
10w40 but being
in
> > Texas, I wonder how 20w50 would do in it?
Might get less tick...
>
> I recently bought a 92 Stealth RT
TT. It had pretty bad valve lash. A
> friend at work who used
to own one told me to use 20w50. I did and I have
> not heard it
ever since. Also my oil pressure is significantly higher and
> the
engine revs much smoother.
>
> Doug
> Red 92 Stealth RT
TT
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 19 Feb 2002 20:20:57
+0100
From: "Jim Matthews" <
jim@the-matthews.com>
Subject: RE:
Team3S: looking for seat covers/baby seat for black '91 stealth
Before
you can get the car? :-) heh heh
It takes a lot of creativity
to install a rear facing infant seat (I was able to mount one on top of
a
folded rear seat), but there are more options when it comes to front facing
seats. My daughter
has used a Century NextStep since she was two... it
fits perfectly and affords plenty of leg room.
Good luck!
- -
--
Jim Matthews - Munich, Germany
mailto:jim@the-matthews.com (64 Kbps
ISDN)
http://www.the-matthews.com***
3000GT-Stealth International (3Si) Member #0030
***
http://www.the-matthews.com/stealth.htmlJet
Black '94 Dodge Stealth R/T Twin-Turbo AWD AWS 6-spd
Adjustable Active
Suspension, Adjustable Exhaust System
K&N FIPK, A'PEXi Super AVC-R v.1
(1.0 bar @ 64% BADC)
A'PEXi Turbo Timer (30 sec), Blitz Super Blow-Off
Valve
Magnecore spark plug wires, Optima Red Top 830 Battery
Redline synth
fluids (trans= MT-90, xfer & diff= SPHvy)
Cryoed rotors, R4S pads,
braided lines, red calipers
Michelin Pilot XGT-Z4 245/45ZR17, Top Speed: 171
mph
G-Tech Pro: 0-60 4.79 sec, 1/4 13.16 sec @ 113.9 mph
1 Feb 99 Dyno
Session: 367 SAE HP, 354 lb-ft torque
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 19 Feb 2002 20:21:13
+0100
From: "Jim Matthews" <
jim@the-matthews.com>
Subject: RE:
Team3S: All-Wheel Steering advice
I have this info on my Stealth
page...
AWS - All Wheel Steering
* The AWS setup is a hydraulically
actuated same-phase system, that is the rear wheels rotate in the
same
direction as the front wheels. Active only above 31 miles per hour, the maximum
deflection of
the wheels is approximately 1.5 degrees and depends on vehicle
speed and steering.
AWS should not make the rear step out! But I
must admit that I've had a few similar experiences
myself... good thing that
guardrail got out of my way!
- - --
Jim Matthews - Munich,
Germany
mailto:jim@the-matthews.com
(64 Kbps ISDN)
http://www.the-matthews.com***
3000GT-Stealth International (3Si) Member #0030
***
http://www.the-matthews.com/stealth.htmlJet
Black '94 Dodge Stealth R/T Twin-Turbo AWD AWS 6-spd
Adjustable Active
Suspension, Adjustable Exhaust System
K&N FIPK, A'PEXi Super AVC-R v.1
(1.0 bar @ 64% BADC)
A'PEXi Turbo Timer (30 sec), Blitz Super Blow-Off
Valve
Magnecore spark plug wires, Optima Red Top 830 Battery
Redline synth
fluids (trans= MT-90, xfer & diff= SPHvy)
Cryoed rotors, R4S pads,
braided lines, red calipers
Michelin Pilot XGT-Z4 245/45ZR17, Top Speed: 171
mph
G-Tech Pro: 0-60 4.79 sec, 1/4 13.16 sec @ 113.9 mph
1 Feb 99 Dyno
Session: 367 SAE HP, 354 lb-ft torque
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 19 Feb 2002 14:38:46
-0500
From: "Darren Schilberg" <
dschilberg@pobox.com>
Subject: RE:
Team3S: Engine Noise
Thanks ... again ... meant with clutch pedal in and
disengaging it will
verify if the thumping is the clutch, pressure plate,
etc. area. Hadn't
thought about the A/C. There are a good number
of pulley systems, etc.
so this one will be neat to figure out what it
is.
- --Flash!
1995 VR-4
- -----Original Message-----
From:
Jannusch, Matt
Sent: Tuesday, February 19, 2002 11:31
> I
think late at night my mind was thinking about the clutch
> not being
engaged in idle.
The clutch is always engaged, unless you have your foot
pushing down the
pedal. Likewise the input shaft in the tranny always
spins at the rate
of
crank rotation unless the clutch is
disengaged.
> So what else is down there going round and round every
second
> at idle (about 700 rpm should be idle).
It could be one
of the accessory pulleys, maybe a bad bearing in one of
them. I think
the A/C compressor would be the most likely to spin once
per
second since
it has a rather large pulley on it.
You could do the garden hose as a
microphone trick to try to narrow down
the
location of where the noise is
coming from.
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 19 Feb 2002 11:39:50
-0800
From: "fastmax" <
fastmax@cox.net>
Subject: Re: Team3S:
All-Wheel Steering advice
Go to the TIM from Jeff Lucius's site --- it's
got a batch of info.
http://www.team3s.com/STIM91/STIM91.htm
Jim Berry
===============================================
- -----
Original Message -----
From: "Jim Matthews" <
jim@the-matthews.com>
To: <
dschilberg@pobox.com>
Cc:
"'Team3S'" <
Team3S@stealth-3000gt.st>; <
3sracers@speedtoys.com>
Sent:
Tuesday, February 19, 2002 11:21 AM
Subject: RE: Team3S: All-Wheel Steering
advice
> I have this info on my Stealth page...
>
> AWS -
All Wheel Steering
> * The AWS setup is a hydraulically actuated
same-phase system, that is the rear wheels rotate in the
> same direction
as the front wheels. Active only above 31 miles per hour, the maximum deflection
of
> the wheels is approximately 1.5 degrees and depends on vehicle speed
and steering.
>
> AWS should not make the rear step out! But
I must admit that I've had a few similar experiences
> myself... good
thing that guardrail got out of my way!
>
> - --
> Jim
Matthews - Munich, Germany
>
mailto:jim@the-matthews.com (64 Kbps
ISDN)
>
http://www.the-matthews.com>
> *** 3000GT-Stealth International (3Si) Member #0030
***
>
http://www.the-matthews.com/stealth.html>
Jet Black '94 Dodge Stealth R/T Twin-Turbo AWD AWS 6-spd
> Adjustable
Active Suspension, Adjustable Exhaust System
> K&N FIPK, A'PEXi Super
AVC-R v.1 (1.0 bar @ 64% BADC)
> A'PEXi Turbo Timer (30 sec), Blitz Super
Blow-Off Valve
> Magnecore spark plug wires, Optima Red Top 830
Battery
> Redline synth fluids (trans= MT-90, xfer & diff=
SPHvy)
> Cryoed rotors, R4S pads, braided lines, red calipers
>
Michelin Pilot XGT-Z4 245/45ZR17, Top Speed: 171 mph
> G-Tech Pro: 0-60
4.79 sec, 1/4 13.16 sec @ 113.9 mph
> 1 Feb 99 Dyno Session: 367 SAE HP,
354 lb-ft torque
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 19 Feb 2002 14:50:03
-0500
From: "Darren Schilberg" <
dschilberg@pobox.com>
Subject: RE:
Team3S: All-Wheel Steering advice
Thanks, Jim. So far this is the
third speed that was claimed for AWS to
kick in (two really since "above 30
mph" and "31 mph" are about the same
answer).
But it was not like the
rear end stepped out as a RWD Camaro, Trans-Am,
Corvette, Firebird, Mustang,
etc. would do but it didn't feel like the
rear wheels were tracking inline
with the front. To be technical ...
the slip angle felt like it went
from 5 or 8 degrees to about 12 or 15
degrees. I'm sure if I had been
able to maintain the same steering
input it would have been fine and just
felt like a little bobble but I
didn't (several factors but it doesn't help
explain how the AWS works or
how to anticipate it kicking in).
So
nobody has an idea of how much the rear wheels turn in relation to
the front
yet? Nobody care to get behind an AWS car and video tape
their rear
wheels in a skidpad of a parking lot at 25 mph and
fully-cranked steering
wheel then step it up to 35 mph and 45 mph and
see if the same input makes a
tighter circle?
It is techniques like these (getting the AWS to help
steer around a
corner, getting AWD to really push/pull you through a corner,
etc.) that
I would like to learn and get better at but no instructor seems to
know
how to work with AWD cars very well and don't know about our cars
so
learn at the same pace we do. I know we have some instructors on
our
list. Have you guys been able to do any of these "tricks?"
-
--Flash!
1995 VR-4
- -----Original Message-----
From: Jim Matthews
[mailto:jim@the-matthews.com]
Sent: Tuesday, February 19, 2002
14:21
I have this info on my Stealth page...
AWS - All Wheel
Steering
* The AWS setup is a hydraulically actuated same-phase
system,
that is the rear wheels rotate in the
same direction as the front
wheels. Active only above 31 miles per hour,
the maximum deflection of
the
wheels is approximately 1.5 degrees and depends on vehicle speed
and
steering.
AWS should not make the rear step out! But I must
admit that I've had a
few similar experiences
myself... good thing that
guardrail got out of my way!
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 19 Feb 2002 14:53:50
-0500
From: "Darren Schilberg" <
dschilberg@pobox.com>
Subject: RE:
Team3S: All-Wheel Steering advice
Sorry. Thanks for Chuck to
reminding me about slip angle. I meant to
say that it went from 12 or
15 degree slip angle (in a left-hand turn)
to about 5 or 8 degrees.
This drop in slip angle made it feel like the
back end that was lagging
behind the front was now catching up to the
front of the car (relative to a
straight line) since it felt like it was
skidding to the right.
-
--Flash!
- -----Original Message-----
From: Darren Schilberg
[mailto:dschilberg@pobox.com]
Sent: Tuesday, February 19, 2002
14:50
Thanks, Jim. So far this is the third speed that was
claimed for AWS to
kick in (two really since "above 30 mph" and "31 mph" are
about the same
answer).
But it was not like the rear end stepped out
as a RWD Camaro, Trans-Am,
Corvette, Firebird, Mustang, etc. would do but it
didn't feel like the
rear wheels were tracking inline with the front.
To be technical ...
the slip angle felt like it went from 5 or 8 degrees to
about 12 or 15
degrees. I'm sure if I had been able to maintain the
same steering
input it would have been fine and just felt like a little
bobble but I
didn't (several factors but it doesn't help explain how the AWS
works or
how to anticipate it kicking in).
So nobody has an idea of
how much the rear wheels turn in relation to
the front yet? Nobody care
to get behind an AWS car and video tape
their rear wheels in a skidpad of a
parking lot at 25 mph and
fully-cranked steering wheel then step it up to 35
mph and 45 mph and
see if the same input makes a tighter circle?
It is
techniques like these (getting the AWS to help steer around a
corner, getting
AWD to really push/pull you through a corner, etc.) that
I would like to
learn and get better at but no instructor seems to know
how to work with AWD
cars very well and don't know about our cars so
learn at the same pace we
do. I know we have some instructors on our
list. Have you guys
been able to do any of these "tricks?"
- --Flash!
1995
VR-4
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 19 Feb 2002 09:48:11
-0600
From: "Eric Cheek" <
echeek@cox-internet.com>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: All-Wheel Steering advice
OK after much internet searching
found this
"Mitsubishi added a hydraulically activated
four-wheel-steering system.
Unlike some four-wheel-steering systems, the one
on the 3000GT is designed
Strictly to aid high-speed cornering. The system
comes alive at speeds above
30mph (48.3kmh). When the steering wheel is
turned, a computer monitors the
speed of the car, how fast the steering wheel
is being turned and the
lateral force being exerted on the toe-control member
of the rear
suspension. Under certain conditions, the system allows the rear
wheels to
be turned up to 1.5 degrees in the same direction as the front
wheels are
turned, making cornering manoeuvres sharper."
On this
site:
http://inhavision.inha.ac.kr/~s953894/motor/gto.htmI
didn't think it kicked in till 50 mph and a little more deflection. Oh
well
;)
Eric C.
- -----Original Message-----
From:
owner-team3s@team3s.com
[mailto:owner-team3s@team3s.com]On Behalf
Of Black, Dave (ICT)
Sent:
Tuesday, February 19, 2002 8:36 AM
To:
'dschilberg@pobox.com'; 'Team3S';
3sracers@speedtoys.comSubject: RE:
Team3S: All-Wheel Steering advice
Darren,
I believe in the manual
it says AWS is active at 40 or 45 mph. It is
same-phase and turns a max
of 1.5°. I'm not sure about the relation of
front to rear.
Dave
95VR4
http://www.daveblack.net>
-----Original Message-----
> From: Darren Schilberg
[SMTP:dschilberg@pobox.com]
> Sent: Tuesday, February 19, 2002 2:45
AM
> To: 'Team3S';
3sracers@speedtoys.com> Subject:
Team3S: All-Wheel Steering advice
>
> Does anyone know above what
speed the AWS is "active" and if it is
> gradual? I thought I read
somewhere that it slowly increases the steering
> of the rear wheels up to
a max of 3 degrees and is related to the
> steepness that the front wheels
are turned. For example, if you steer at
> 5 degrees in the front
then will the rear turn 0 degrees? If the front is
> 20 degrees are
the rear at 1 degree? What is the relation?
>
> I need to know
if the skid I experienced tonight was driver error, road
> error, or the
rear wheels beginning to steer into the turn thus giving the
> impression
that the rear of the car was stepping out. Need to get some
> people
who have learned and practiced it and not just gotten the back end
> to
skid out unknowingly. I plan to duplicate it but not in the exact
same
> scenario as I did tonight (co-driver was most gracious and helpful
but we
> need some extra input).
>
> The car escaped unharmed
but my pride and ego got a little dented.
>
> --Flash!
> 1995
VR-4 and a little nervous now of approaching the 25 mph turn at 75
> mph
again
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 19 Feb 2002 15:34:52
-0500
From: "Darren Schilberg" <
dschilberg@pobox.com>
Subject: RE:
Team3S: All-Wheel Steering advice
Thanks. I do see some info there
that will help so I'll read through
that.
Page 19b-07 is a chart of
Rear wheel steering angle vs. Vehicle speed
- - Rear wheel steering angle
(0-1.5 degrees) on the Y-axis
- - Vehicle speed on the X-axis
The
curves start at 60 km/h (37 mph) and are interesting 0.3g, 0.5g, and
0.7 g of
lateral acceleration) depending on the other inputs.
http://www.team3s.com/STIM91/Images/tim_19b-07.gifhttp://www.team3s.com/STIM91/Images/tim_19b-09.gif-
-----Original Message-----
From: fastmax
Sent: Tuesday, February 19, 2002
14:40
Go to the TIM from Jeff Lucius's site --- it's got a batch of
info.
http://www.team3s.com/STIM91/STIM91.htm***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 19 Feb 2002 20:35:31
+0000
From:
apedenko@attbi.comSubject: RE: Team3S:
All-Wheel Steering advice
I'm confused - how is turning the rear wheels
in the
same direction as the front wheels going to make it
turn faster?
doesn't that mean that the relative angle
of the front and rear wheels going
to decrease?
Wouldn't that have more of a sliding effect than a
turning
effect?
Alex.
> OK after much internet searching found
this
>
> "Mitsubishi added a hydraulically activated
four-wheel-steering system.
> Unlike some four-wheel-steering systems, the
one on the 3000GT is designed
> Strictly to aid high-speed cornering. The
system comes alive at speeds above
> 30mph (48.3kmh). When the steering
wheel is turned, a computer monitors the
> speed of the car, how fast the
steering wheel is being turned and the
> lateral force being exerted on
the toe-control member of the rear
> suspension. Under certain conditions,
the system allows the rear wheels to
> be turned up to 1.5 degrees in the
same direction as the front wheels are
> turned, making cornering
manoeuvres sharper."
>
> On this site:
>
http://inhavision.inha.ac.kr/~s953894/motor/gto.htm>
> I didn't think it kicked in till 50 mph and a little more deflection.
Oh
> well ;)
>
> Eric C.
>
> -----Original
Message-----
> From:
owner-team3s@team3s.com
[mailto:owner-team3s@team3s.com]On Behalf
> Of Black, Dave (ICT)
>
Sent: Tuesday, February 19, 2002 8:36 AM
> To:
'dschilberg@pobox.com'; 'Team3S';
3sracers@speedtoys.com> Subject:
RE: Team3S: All-Wheel Steering advice
>
>
> Darren,
>
> I believe in the manual it says AWS is active at 40 or 45 mph. It
is
> same-phase and turns a max of 1.5°. I'm not sure about the
relation of
> front to rear.
>
> Dave 95VR4
>
http://www.daveblack.net>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> > From: Darren Schilberg
[SMTP:dschilberg@pobox.com]
> > Sent: Tuesday, February 19, 2002 2:45
AM
> > To: 'Team3S';
3sracers@speedtoys.com> >
Subject: Team3S: All-Wheel Steering advice
> >
> > Does anyone
know above what speed the AWS is "active" and if it is
> >
gradual? I thought I read somewhere that it slowly increases the
steering
> > of the rear wheels up to a max of 3 degrees and is related
to the
> > steepness that the front wheels are turned. For
example, if you steer at
> > 5 degrees in the front then will the rear
turn 0 degrees? If the front is
> > 20 degrees are the rear at 1
degree? What is the relation?
> >
> > I need to know if
the skid I experienced tonight was driver error, road
> > error, or the
rear wheels beginning to steer into the turn thus giving the
> >
impression that the rear of the car was stepping out. Need to get
some
> > people who have learned and practiced it and not just gotten
the back end
> > to skid out unknowingly. I plan to duplicate it
but not in the exact same
> > scenario as I did tonight (co-driver was
most gracious and helpful but we
> > need some extra input).
>
>
> > The car escaped unharmed but my pride and ego got a little
dented.
> >
> > --Flash!
> > 1995 VR-4 and a little
nervous now of approaching the 25 mph turn at 75
> > mph
again
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 19 Feb 2002 15:40:38
-0500
From: "Darren Schilberg" <
dschilberg@pobox.com>
Subject: RE:
Team3S: All-Wheel Steering advice
Beats me. This is now the fourth
mph number I've seen. And I don't
know where they got those
numbers. I shifted IN to fifth gear at 150
mph from fourth one time so
I know their top speed number is bogus (mine
is a six speed) as is the 0-60
time.
- --Flash!
- -----Original Message-----
From:
owner-team3s@team3s.com
[mailto:owner-team3s@team3s.com] On Behalf
Of Eric Cheek
Sent: Tuesday,
February 19, 2002 10:48
To: 'Team3S' (E-mail)
Subject: RE: Team3S:
All-Wheel Steering advice
OK after much internet searching found
this
"Mitsubishi added a hydraulically activated
four-wheel-steering
system.
Unlike some four-wheel-steering systems, the
one on the 3000GT is
designed
Strictly to aid high-speed cornering. The
system comes alive at speeds
above
30mph (48.3kmh). When the steering
wheel is turned, a computer monitors
the
speed of the car, how fast the
steering wheel is being turned and the
lateral force being exerted on the
toe-control member of the rear
suspension. Under certain conditions, the
system allows the rear wheels
to
be turned up to 1.5 degrees in the same
direction as the front wheels
are
turned, making cornering manoeuvres
sharper."
On this site:
http://inhavision.inha.ac.kr/~s953894/motor/gto.htmI
didn't think it kicked in till 50 mph and a little more
deflection.
Oh
well ;)
Eric C.
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 19 Feb 2002 15:42:26
-0500
From: "Furman, Russell" <
RFurman2@MassMutual.com>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: All-Wheel Steering advice
That's the point Alex, less
rotational movement and more lateral. Basic
math fastest way
between 2 points is a straight line ;) Unless you are
talking about
travel around the earth.
> -----Original Message-----
> From:
apedenko@attbi.com
[SMTP:apedenko@attbi.com]
> Sent: Tuesday, February 19, 2002 3:36
PM
> To:
echeek@cox-internet.com> Cc:
team3s@team3s.com> Subject: RE:
Team3S: All-Wheel Steering advice
>
> I'm confused - how is turning
the rear wheels in the
> same direction as the front wheels going to make
it
> turn faster? doesn't that mean that the relative angle
> of
the front and rear wheels going to decrease?
> Wouldn't that have more of
a sliding effect than a
> turning effect?
>
>
Alex.
> > OK after much internet searching found this
> >
> > "Mitsubishi added a hydraulically activated
four-wheel-steering
> system.
> > Unlike some four-wheel-steering
systems, the one on the 3000GT is
> designed
> > Strictly to aid
high-speed cornering. The system comes alive at speeds
> above
>
> 30mph (48.3kmh). When the steering wheel is turned, a computer
monitors
> the
> > speed of the car, how fast the steering wheel
is being turned and the
> > lateral force being exerted on the
toe-control member of the rear
> > suspension. Under certain
conditions, the system allows the rear wheels
> to
> > be turned
up to 1.5 degrees in the same direction as the front wheels
> are
>
> turned, making cornering manoeuvres sharper."
> >
> > On
this site:
> >
http://inhavision.inha.ac.kr/~s953894/motor/gto.htm>
>
> > I didn't think it kicked in till 50 mph and a little
more
> deflection. Oh
> > well ;)
> >
> > Eric
C.
> >
> > -----Original Message-----
> > From:
owner-team3s@team3s.com
[mailto:owner-team3s@team3s.com]On Behalf
> > Of Black, Dave
(ICT)
> > Sent: Tuesday, February 19, 2002 8:36 AM
> > To:
'dschilberg@pobox.com'; 'Team3S';
3sracers@speedtoys.com> >
Subject: RE: Team3S: All-Wheel Steering advice
> >
> >
Darren,
> >
> > I believe in the manual it says AWS is active
at 40 or 45 mph. It is
> > same-phase and turns a max of
1.5°. I'm not sure about the relation of
> > front to
rear.
> >
> > Dave 95VR4
> >
http://www.daveblack.net> >
> > > -----Original Message-----
> > > From: Darren
Schilberg [SMTP:dschilberg@pobox.com]
> > > Sent: Tuesday, February
19, 2002 2:45 AM
> > > To: 'Team3S';
3sracers@speedtoys.com> >
> Subject: Team3S: All-Wheel Steering advice
> > >
> >
> Does anyone know above what speed the AWS is "active" and if it is
>
> > gradual? I thought I read somewhere that it slowly increases
the
> steering
> > > of the rear wheels up to a max of 3
degrees and is related to the
> > > steepness that the front wheels
are turned. For example, if you steer
> at
> > > 5
degrees in the front then will the rear turn 0 degrees? If the
>
front is
> > > 20 degrees are the rear at 1 degree? What is
the relation?
> > >
> > > I need to know if the skid I
experienced tonight was driver error,
> road
> > > error, or
the rear wheels beginning to steer into the turn thus giving
> the
>
> > impression that the rear of the car was stepping out. Need to
get
> some
> > > people who have learned and practiced it and
not just gotten the back
> end
> > > to skid out
unknowingly. I plan to duplicate it but not in the exact
>
same
> > > scenario as I did tonight (co-driver was most gracious
and helpful but
> we
> > > need some extra input).
>
> >
> > > The car escaped unharmed but my pride and ego got a
little dented.
> > >
> > > --Flash!
> > >
1995 VR-4 and a little nervous now of approaching the 25 mph turn at
>
75
> > > mph again
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 19 Feb 2002 14:47:34
-0600
From: "Jannusch, Matt" <
mjannusch@marketwatch.com>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: All-Wheel Steering advice
> ...so I know their top speed
number is bogus (mine
> is a six speed) as is the 0-60 time.
Yup, they quote 0-60 at 5.0 seconds. Road & Track (or Car
& Driver? Same
thing...) got 4.8 out of their test car.
;-)
My Gtech (not that they are very accurate) gets 4.4 to 4.6 0-60, but
I don't
beat on my car on the launch like the magazines did.
-
-Matt
'95 3000GT Spyder VR4
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 19 Feb 2002 21:07:10
+0000
From:
apedenko@attbi.comSubject: RE: Team3S:
All-Wheel Steering advice
point well taken ;) (at least in Euclidean
geometry,
though he never proved it :)
Alex.
> That's
the point Alex, less rotational movement and more lateral.
Basic
> math fastest way between 2 points is a straight line ;)
Unless you are
> talking about travel around the earth.
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> > From:
apedenko@attbi.com
[SMTP:apedenko@attbi.com]
> > Sent: Tuesday, February 19, 2002 3:36
PM
> > To:
echeek@cox-internet.com> >
Cc:
team3s@team3s.com> >
Subject: RE: Team3S: All-Wheel Steering advice
> >
> > I'm
confused - how is turning the rear wheels in the
> > same direction as
the front wheels going to make it
> > turn faster? doesn't that mean
that the relative angle
> > of the front and rear wheels going to
decrease?
> > Wouldn't that have more of a sliding effect than a
> > turning effect?
> >
> >
Alex.
> > > OK after much internet searching found this
> >
>
> > > "Mitsubishi added a hydraulically activated
four-wheel-steering
> > system.
> > > Unlike some
four-wheel-steering systems, the one on the 3000GT is
> >
designed
> > > Strictly to aid high-speed cornering. The system
comes alive at speeds
> > above
> > > 30mph (48.3kmh). When
the steering wheel is turned, a computer monitors
> > the
> >
> speed of the car, how fast the steering wheel is being turned and
the
> > > lateral force being exerted on the toe-control member of
the rear
> > > suspension. Under certain conditions, the system
allows the rear wheels
> > to
> > > be turned up to 1.5
degrees in the same direction as the front wheels
> > are
> >
> turned, making cornering manoeuvres sharper."
> > >
>
> > On this site:
> > >
http://inhavision.inha.ac.kr/~s953894/motor/gto.htm>
> >
> > > I didn't think it kicked in till 50 mph and a
little more
> > deflection. Oh
> > > well ;)
> >
>
> > > Eric C.
> > >
> > >
-----Original Message-----
> > > From:
owner-team3s@team3s.com
[mailto:owner-team3s@team3s.com]On Behalf
> > > Of Black, Dave
(ICT)
> > > Sent: Tuesday, February 19, 2002 8:36 AM
> >
> To:
'dschilberg@pobox.com';
'Team3S';
3sracers@speedtoys.com> >
> Subject: RE: Team3S: All-Wheel Steering advice
> > >
>
> >
> > > Darren,
> > >
> > > I
believe in the manual it says AWS is active at 40 or 45 mph. It is
>
> > same-phase and turns a max of 1.5°. I'm not sure about the
relation of
> > > front to rear.
> > >
> >
> Dave 95VR4
> > >
http://www.daveblack.net> > >
> > > > -----Original Message-----
> > > > From:
Darren Schilberg [SMTP:dschilberg@pobox.com]
> > > > Sent:
Tuesday, February 19, 2002 2:45 AM
> > > > To: 'Team3S';
3sracers@speedtoys.com> >
> > Subject: Team3S: All-Wheel Steering advice
> > >
>
> > > > Does anyone know above what speed the AWS is
"active" and if it is
> > > > gradual? I thought I read
somewhere that it slowly increases the
> > steering
> > >
> of the rear wheels up to a max of 3 degrees and is related to the
>
> > > steepness that the front wheels are turned. For example, if
you steer
> > at
> > > > 5 degrees in the front then
will the rear turn 0 degrees? If the
> > front is
> >
> > 20 degrees are the rear at 1 degree? What is the
relation?
> > > >
> > > > I need to know if the
skid I experienced tonight was driver error,
> > road
> > >
> error, or the rear wheels beginning to steer into the turn thus
giving
> > the
> > > > impression that the rear of the
car was stepping out. Need to get
> > some
> > > >
people who have learned and practiced it and not just gotten the back
>
> end
> > > > to skid out unknowingly. I plan to
duplicate it but not in the exact
> > same
> > > >
scenario as I did tonight (co-driver was most gracious and helpful but
>
> we
> > > > need some extra input).
> > >
>
> > > > The car escaped unharmed but my pride and ego got a
little dented.
> > > >
> > > > --Flash!
>
> > > 1995 VR-4 and a little nervous now of approaching the 25 mph turn
at
> > 75
> > > > mph again
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 19 Feb 2002 17:22:17
-0000
From: "Sam Shelat" <
sshelat@erols.com>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: looking for seat covers/baby seat for black '91 stealth
Wet
okoles--they have a web site and the covers look and fit so well, they
look
like new seats.
Sam
- -----Original Message-----
From:
gtg509d@prism.gatech.edu <
gtg509d@prism.gatech.edu>
To:
Team3S@stealth-3000gt.st <
Team3S@stealth-3000gt.st>
Date:
Tuesday, February 19, 2002 2:45 PM
Subject: Team3S: looking for seat
covers/baby seat for black '91 stealth
>Hey
Everybody,
>
>I'm trying to find a source to get seat covers for the
front seats of a
>black '91 Stealth RT (currently cracking charcoal
leather). Also, before I
can
>get the car, I need to see if they
make baby seats for the back seats, and
if
>so, how much they cost and
where to get them (for future
reference).
Thanks.
>
>Best,
>Michael
>Atlanta,
GA
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 19 Feb 2002 18:10:12
-0500
From: "Darren Schilberg" <
dschilberg@pobox.com>
Subject:
Team3S: AWD and spin characteristics of other cars (was: All-Wheel Steering
advice)
I sent this to the 3S-Racers list but I feel it is so important
that I
am sending it to the Team3S list as well.
- -----Original
Message-----
From: Darren Schilberg [mailto:dschilberg@pobox.com]
Sent:
Tuesday, February 19, 2002 18:07
To:
'3sracers@speedtoys.com'Subject:
RE: 3S-Racers: FWD spins; was All-Wheel Steering advice
This is from Jay
Lamm's "All-Wheel Drive High-Performance Handbook"
Section: Advantages of
All-Wheel Drive
Page: 16
"Lateral acceleration is not the only place
an all-wheel-drive vehicle's
added stability comes from. When one tire
of a two-wheel-drive vehicle
loses traction, the driving force is momentarily
concentrated on the
other side of the axle. The result is sideways
motion, or yaw, which at
high speeds can be serious enough to produce a
slide. In a
front-wheel-drive car, the nose of the vehicle will rotate
toward the
side of lost traction, while a rear-wheel-drive car rotates away
from
the side of lost traction. With all-wheel-drive, the yawing
action
induced by both front and rear drive wheels effectively cancels
itself
out, the result being continued motion in a straight line."
"An
all-wheel-drive vehicle with a locked or limited-slip center
differential
will also offer better stability in emergency or
fast-driving situations that
lead to lost traction at one end of the
car. With a two-wheel-drive
vehicle, when traction is lost at the drive
axle the only major force applied
to the vehicle is inertia. Inertia
pushes the car in the direction it
was originally traveling. With
all-wheel-drive, the second drive axle
can continue to add force in the
direction the vehicle should be traveling,
which is often not the
direction it was previously traveling."
Let me
repeat that again ... "In a FWD car, THE NOSE OF THE VEHICLE WILL
ROTATE
TOWARD THE SIDE OF LOST TRACTION, while a RWD car ROTATES AWAY
FROM THE SIDE
OF LOST TRACION. With all-wheel-drive, the yawing action
induced by
both front and rear drive wheels effectively cancels itself
out, the result
being continued motion in a straight line."
I see it on the tracks.
It is real world experience to me. Mustang got
loose in Turn 3 at VIR
and spun toward us on the outside. Integra got
loose and spun from the
right of the track across and to the inside of
the turn. I can probably
capture my video from this turn but I think
the excerpt above supports my
claims. Feel free to try and dispute them
but give me video proof in
order to change my mind.
- --Flash!
1995 VR-4
***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 19 Feb 2002 18:33:43
-0500
From: "Philip V. Glazatov" <
gphilip@umich.edu>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: Intercooler question
The Skyline guys say it is good for up to
450 HP. Anyone want to have a 450
HP 3S? let me know before noon tomorrow by
emailing to both
gphilip@umich.edu
and
pvg1@dcx.com.
Philip
>$575
shipped. It's in perfect shape, the size is 23-1/2" wide x 10-5/8"
>tall
x 2-3/8" thick.
>
>Philip
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 19 Feb 2002 17:42:05
-0600
From: "Jannusch, Matt" <
mjannusch@marketwatch.com>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: Intercooler question
> The Skyline guys say it is good for
up to 450 HP.
> Anyone want to have a 450 HP 3S? let me know
>
before noon tomorrow by emailing to both
>
gphilip@umich.edu and
pvg1@dcx.com.
The stock sidemounts are
fine to 450 HP. I don't think the Skyline core is
going to help
much.
- -Matt
'95 3000GT Spyder VR4
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 19 Feb 2002 17:48:54
-0600
From: "
merritt@cedar-rapids.net" <
merritt@cedar-rapids.net>
Subject:
Team3S: Sway Bars are In!
Just got back from Denny's Mufflers after a
six-hour ordeal.
It takes 2.5 hours to do the front bar and 2.5 hours to
do the rear bar,
plus an hour of adjusting, fiddling, filling fluids, etc.
This is at a shop
with a lift, power tools, and lots of help figuring out
stuff, such as how
to wiggle the bars in and out, or prying up on the
exhaust, or holding up
the rear suspension, etc.
I do not envy those
of you who attempt this job on your garage floor with
jackstands and socket
wrenches. Here's essentially how Denny's did it:
Front bar:
Drop
control arms
Drop driveshaft (front)
Drop two support beams under the
engine.
The biggest problem is clearing the end of the transfer case. The
only way
is to get everything out of the way so you have room to manuever the
bar.
Then you have to do some prying to get the new one in, because it's
fatter.
Time:
One hour to old-bar-out/new-bar-resting-in-place (not
installed, just
sitting there).
1.5 hour to button it back up.
Rear
Bar:
Drop exhaust (from cat back)
Drop driveshaft (rear)
Lower entire
rear diff and suspension -- remove the four main mounting
bolts, and the
entire assembly can be lowered. Watch out, though -- it
weighs a lot.
Remove brackets on brake lines, hoses, ABS, and half a dozen other
gadgets
under there -- the biggest problem is the bar snakes through ALL
that
stuff, making it almost impossible to wiggle it out unless you have room
to
move the hoses and lines out of the way. Fortunately, you do not have
to
disconnect brake lines, because the BFG SS lines will allow the
rear
assembly to drop the necessary distance.
Time:
One hour to
old-bar-out/new-bar-laying-in-place
1.5 hour to button it up.
If you
have done this before, you probably can do it faster. The first time
is the
toughest, because you have to learn as you go.
Without a lift and power
ratchets, I estimate all day Saturday for the
front bar, and all day Sunday
for the rear bar.
The front bar comes with all new hardware. The rear
has brackets and
bushing only, but no adjusters at the ends, so save the old
end mounts.
Can't tell yet what the improvement is. It's raining, so I
didn't challenge
the 100 mph sweepers near my house at anything over 85 mph.
Around town,
it's like a go-kart, and makes me think it might be a pretty
good autocross
car now. Seems to make those 90-deg turns instantly, without
any body roll
or front end plowing. But, like I said, I gotta wait for a dry
day to
really see.
If you live within 5 hr of Cedar Rapids, I
recommend letting Denny's do the
install.
Rich/slow old poop
94
VR4
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 19 Feb 2002 16:07:11
-0800 (PST)
From: menalteed <
menalteed@yahoo.com>
Subject:
Team3S: Turbo timer install help.
My new turbo timer looks quite simple.
One wire to the
parking brake another to the ECU RPM signal. Anyone
who
has instaled one, it would help if you could let
me know where the easy place
is to make my splices for
the brake and rpm signal wire. In my mind
everything
is hard when it comes to my 92 rt tt stealth. Also my
new
turbos just arrived today so I should have them in
this weeekend, if all the
the fittings arive this week
also.
peter---just a old guy adding some
extra poop into my
broken machine, and doing it myself to save moola.
My
dodge dealers nose is four feet long after all the
lies I've been told and
prices I've been quoted.
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 19 Feb 2002 19:08:41
-0500
From: "Darren Schilberg" <
dschilberg@pobox.com>
Subject:
Team3S: RE: 3S-Racers: Sway Bars are In!
I get mine done Thursday and I'm
not telling you where (I guess I am
just lucky that the dealer around here is
actually helpful). They
looked at the car today to get "prepared" for
it and the one mechanic
had done one last year sometime so he knows the ins
and outs a little.
He warned that the car would most likely need aligned
again. That is
small potatoes if I can get the rear bar in
place.
Nobody has ever put in just a rear though to see how much it
undoes the
understeer or if just the rear makes it oversteer, right? I
heard it
might make it twitchy but maybe the combo of a rear anti-sway bar
and a
front strut tower bar is ideal, maybe dual anti-sway bars and a
rear
strut tower bar. I just don't think people have played around with
the
settings yet since it is so hard to get in initially.
I asked
Meineke today and they referred me to another shop who could do
it but would
play around for 6 hours under there. I said no thanks as
they had no
office but just four garage bays. I called the dealer and
brought it
up. He remembered my car as the one with the rollbar so it
is nice when
they know you come back and they know they see dollar signs
when I come
back. Talked with Mike the Mechanic (honest ... that's his
name ... and
yes I just made up that pun) came out and asked me a little
about it and
offered that my car with the AWS makes things more "fun."
Nice to know the
mechanic knows about the car just looking at what model
it is. Better
then waiting until it get up on the rack and they say,
"Is that a
differential back here?"
So I drop it off tomorrow night and get it
worked on during the day
Thursday and I don't think they'll let me in for
pictures but Rich makes
an excellent instruction list that I will offer to
them as advice (plus
the fact that it took only 1.5 hours). My guy said
there might be some
unannounced charges like exhaust gaskets if they end up
taking the
exhaust off instead of hanging it. At this point I wouldn't
mind new
stuff back there as I bet it is original and 85k miles old. He
said
there is no chance loosening up some bolts as they have no heads on
them
and just go up into the frame. Just gotta hope the air tools break
them
loose or it takes longer.
So I am doing the unthinkable and only
having the rear anti-sway bar
installed. I don't want to beef up front
and rear and find out it still
understeers. Better to make one change
at a time and since the front
install has nothing to do with the rear install
)except for alignment)
it doesn't bother me much.
I will have my
driving instructor test the car this weekend on the same
roads he tested last
weekend. This will give some excellent input as to
how it changed on
stock suspension. I also am making provisions to test
the car with a
front and/or rear strut tower bar at the same time to see
what combination is
best. Stay tuned.
Thanks Rich. First full install I think
from this new set. I know Jim
Floyd have them on but the front one
somehow came loose at the track so
I haven't seen a car with both modded
anti-sway bars on the street yet.
A friend has them I think on his AutoX VR-4
in Rochester and does well
but he also have the Ground Control coilover setup
so it all helps.
Staying tuned for more excitement.
-
--Flash!
1995 VR-4
- -----Original Message-----
From:
merritt@cedar-rapids.netSent:
Tuesday, February 19, 2002 18:49
Just got back from Denny's
Mufflers after a six-hour ordeal.
It takes 2.5 hours to do the front bar
and 2.5 hours to do the rear bar,
plus an hour of adjusting, fiddling,
filling fluids, etc. This is at a
shop
with a lift, power tools, and lots
of help figuring out stuff, such as
how
to wiggle the bars in and out, or
prying up on the exhaust, or holding
up
the rear suspension, etc.
I do not envy those of you who attempt this job on your garage
floor
with
jackstands and socket wrenches. Here's essentially how Denny's
did it:
Front bar:
Drop control arms
Drop driveshaft
(front)
Drop two support beams under the engine.
The biggest problem is
clearing the end of the transfer case. The only
way
is to get everything
out of the way so you have room to manuever the
bar.
Then you have to do
some prying to get the new one in, because it's
fatter.
Time:
One hour
to old-bar-out/new-bar-resting-in-place (not installed, just
sitting
there).
1.5 hour to button it back up.
Rear Bar:
Drop exhaust (from
cat back)
Drop driveshaft (rear)
Lower entire rear diff and suspension --
remove the four main mounting
bolts, and the entire assembly can be lowered.
Watch out, though -- it
weighs a lot.
Remove brackets on brake lines,
hoses, ABS, and half a dozen other
gadgets
under there -- the biggest
problem is the bar snakes through ALL that
stuff, making it almost impossible
to wiggle it out unless you have room
to
move the hoses and lines out of
the way. Fortunately, you do not have to
disconnect brake lines, because the
BFG SS lines will allow the rear
assembly to drop the necessary distance.
Time:
One hour to old-bar-out/new-bar-laying-in-place
1.5 hour to
button it up.
If you have done this before, you probably can do it
faster. The first
time
is the toughest, because you have to learn as you
go.
Without a lift and power ratchets, I estimate all day Saturday for
the
front bar, and all day Sunday for the rear bar.
The front bar
comes with all new hardware. The rear has brackets and
bushing only, but no
adjusters at the ends, so save the old end mounts.
Can't tell yet what
the improvement is. It's raining, so I didn't
challenge
the 100 mph
sweepers near my house at anything over 85 mph. Around town,
it's like a
go-kart, and makes me think it might be a pretty good
autocross
car now.
Seems to make those 90-deg turns instantly, without any body
roll
or front
end plowing. But, like I said, I gotta wait for a dry day to
really
see.
If you live within 5 hr of Cedar Rapids, I recommend letting Denny's
do
the
install.
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 20 Feb 2002 01:22:48
+0100
From: "Roger Gerl" <
roger.gerl@bluewin.ch>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Turbo timer install help.
> My new turbo timer looks quite
simple. One wire to the
> parking brake another to the ECU RPM
signal.
As you said, simple :)
> me know where the easy place
is to make my splices for
> the brake
It depends if this turbo
timer (you don't say what you bought) needs ground
to switch off or high
level. If ground (as most use) lift the shift boot and
grab the wire that
goes to the brake switch, it's a blue one. Splice in it
and you're
done.
> and rpm signal wire.
At the harness from the ECU. It's
the top left wire at the middle connector
when looking at the
ECU.
Roger
93'3000GT TT
www.rtec.ch*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 19 Feb 2002 17:34:54
-0700
From: "Thomas Jeys" <
tj@jeys.net>
Subject: Re: Team3S: Valve
lash.
>Anybody else running 20w50?
I'm running 20 50.
While it's great in the summer and does minimize the
Mitsubishi tap dancing,
I wouldn't recommend it during the winter months.
>Also my oil
pressure is significantly higher and the engine revs
much
smoother.
I've been told that the stock oil pressure sensor
doesn't actually measure
oil pressure, but rather oil flow rate.
Anybody know if this is true?
Thomas Jeys
tj@jeys.net*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 19 Feb 2002 17:44:36
-0800
From: "BlackLight" <
BlackLight@Planetice.net>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: All-Wheel Steering advice
It's 50 KPH not MPH (about 31 MPH)
think about it mitsu engineers aren't
thinking mph!! Once media got a hold of
it it became 30 to round it off,
then 48. yadda yadda KPH because they
converted from the incorrect MPH
number to KPH.
Matt Nelson
1994 RT
TT
Computer Sales Consultant
Gateway Computers, Salem OR
Work Phone
503-587-7113
BlackLight@Planetice.Netwww.BlackLight.5u.com-
-----Original Message-----
From:
owner-team3s@team3s.com
[mailto:owner-team3s@team3s.com] On Behalf
Of Eric Cheek
Sent: Tuesday,
February 19, 2002 7:48 AM
To: 'Team3S' (E-mail)
Subject: RE: Team3S:
All-Wheel Steering advice
OK after much internet searching found
this
"Mitsubishi added a hydraulically activated
four-wheel-steering
system. Unlike some four-wheel-steering systems, the one
on the 3000GT
is designed Strictly to aid high-speed cornering. The system
comes alive
at speeds above 30mph (48.3kmh). When the steering wheel is
turned, a
computer monitors the speed of the car, how fast the steering wheel
is
being turned and the lateral force being exerted on the
toe-control
member of the rear suspension. Under certain conditions, the
system
allows the rear wheels to be turned up to 1.5 degrees in the
same
direction as the front wheels are turned, making cornering
manoeuvres
sharper."
On this site:
http://inhavision.inha.ac.kr/~s953894/motor/gto.htmI
didn't think it kicked in till 50 mph and a little more
deflection. Oh well
;)
Eric C.
- -----Original Message-----
From:
owner-team3s@team3s.com
[mailto:owner-team3s@team3s.com]On Behalf
Of Black, Dave (ICT)
Sent:
Tuesday, February 19, 2002 8:36 AM
To:
'dschilberg@pobox.com'; 'Team3S';
3sracers@speedtoys.comSubject: RE:
Team3S: All-Wheel Steering advice
Darren,
I believe in the manual
it says AWS is active at 40 or 45 mph. It is
same-phase and turns a max
of 1.5°. I'm not sure about the relation of
front to rear.
Dave
95VR4
http://www.daveblack.net>
-----Original Message-----
> From: Darren Schilberg
[SMTP:dschilberg@pobox.com]
> Sent: Tuesday, February 19, 2002 2:45
AM
> To: 'Team3S';
3sracers@speedtoys.com> Subject:
Team3S: All-Wheel Steering advice
>
> Does anyone know above what
speed the AWS is "active" and if it is
> gradual? I thought I read
somewhere that it slowly increases the
> steering of the rear wheels up
to a max of 3 degrees and is related to
> the steepness that the front
wheels are turned. For example, if you
> steer at 5 degrees in the
front then will the rear turn 0 degrees? If
> the front is 20
degrees are the rear at 1 degree? What is the
>
relation?
>
> I need to know if the skid I experienced tonight was
driver error,
> road error, or the rear wheels beginning to steer into
the turn thus
> giving the impression that the rear of the car was
stepping out. Need
> to get some people who have learned and
practiced it and not just
> gotten the back end to skid out
unknowingly. I plan to duplicate it
> but not in the exact same
scenario as I did tonight (co-driver was
> most gracious and helpful but
we need some extra input).
>
> The car escaped unharmed but my pride
and ego got a little dented.
>
> --Flash!
> 1995 VR-4 and a
little nervous now of approaching the 25 mph turn at
> 75 mph
again
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 20 Feb 2002 04:40:52
+0000
From:
apedenko@attbi.comSubject: Team3S:
paint q
I'm considering having my green vr4 re-painted to
either red
or black. I've heard horror stories of ppl
getting something like that done,
and then having the
new paint peel off after a while.
Any
recommendations on places to get that done w/o
having it peel?
also,
what's a good price range?
BTW, can a carbon fiber hood be painted, or
does it
have to stay that checkered color?
Alex.
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
End of Team3S: 3000GT &
Stealth V1
#758
***************************************
