Team3S: 3000GT & Stealth Saturday, February 16 2002
Volume 01 : Number
755
----------------------------------------------------------------------
Date:
Fri, 15 Feb 2002 08:19:01 -0800
From: Chris Winkley <
cwinkley@plaza.ds.adp.com>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: gforce ecu upgrade only
Bill...
Four words..."Let the
buyer beware".
Five years ago, when I bought my VR4, it seemed to me I
should be able to do
exactly what you describe, add a modified ECU that was
mapped to my mods and
not have to fiddle with knobs and dials. All the racers
on the list
(starnet) back then, who later migrated to the Team3S list when
we created
it for technical discussions, assured me that the G-Force ECU
upgrade would
not do the trick and encouraged me to buy a VPC/AFC or some
other manual
air/fuel controller.
Being a big believer in the
miracles of modern electronic technology, I saw
no reason why I should not be
able to do what they had done without the
knobs and dials so after I had done
my intake, exhaust, injectors, fuel
pump, turbos, etc., I went ahead and
negotiated a deal with Robert O'Toole
of G-Force. Robert assured me he could
indeed create specific maps for my
mods that would maximize my performance.
Three sets of chips later, many
dollars worth of fouled plugs, lousy runs
down the 1/4 mile, marginal street
performance, and 18 months of working with
G-Force I tore the damn thing out
and bought the ARC2/MAF w/Split Second A/F
meter. I should've listened to
those who had walked this ground before and
saved myself the anguish.
There's only two people I know of who still
have a G-Force ECU, both of whom
STILL have an additional fuel controller to
modify the maps provided by
G-Force (Roger Gerl and Arty Shevack). If G-Force
is still in business it
certainly wouldn't be the result of a recommendation
from me.
Looking forward...Chris
1995 Glacier Pearl White VR4
(w/custom K&N intake, bored and polished
throttle body, TEC 15G turbos,
RC 560cc injectors, HKS fuel pump, ARC2/MAF
fuel controller, Split Second A/F
meter, GReddy PRofec A boost controller,
Apex EGT & boost gauges, GReddy
turbo timer, HKS SBOV, custom intercoolers,
Odyssey dry cell battery,
Magnecore 8.5mm wires, NGK double platinum plugs
gapped at .032", ACT 2800 lb
pressure plate, Broward six puck racing disc,
Centerforce throwout bearing,
ATR downpipe and test pipe, GReddy catback
exhaust, Stillen cross-drilled
rotors, Porterfield R4 race pads, SS brake
lines, Eibach 1" drop progressive
springs, Michelin SX MXX3 Pilots)
- -----Original Message-----
From:
Bill vp [mailto:billvp@highstream.net]
Sent: Thursday, February 14, 2002 1:34
PM
To: team3/S
Subject: RE: Team3S: gforce ecu upgrade only
I
should have been more specific. I currently have 15G turbos (on
stock
boost), a full exhaust, intake, bov, boost controller, etc. and am
going to
install 550cc injectors and a Walbro 255 fuel pump. For these
mods, what is
holding me back from just getting the GForce ecu instead of
either the
vpc/safc or the arc2? The gforce ecu will have new fuel maps
for the 550
injectors and the 15G turbos, correct? I understand that it
is a static
upgrade, and if later on I decide to upgrade turbos or injectors
FURTHER,
that I would need to purchase an additional upgraded ecu.
My
understanding of the gforce was that you (I) tell them your mods and
they
will make a custom ecu for you, for around $800. Then you can have
the
daily driveability of a stock car.
Is this incorrect
information?
- -----Original Message-----
From:
jacomj@aur.alcatel.com
[mailto:jacomj@aur.alcatel.com]On Behalf Of
Marc Jonathan Jacobs
Sent:
Thursday, February 14, 2002 12:23 PM
To: Bill vp
Subject: Team3S: gforce
ecu upgrade only
The Gforce ECU has new fuel maps for the stock injectors
(pump doesn't
matter here). This gets a few more horsepower out of the
stock system.
If you change injector size, then you need some other method of
fuel
computer. Otherwise it will not idle, or run well at all. It
should
run fine at 5000 RPM at max boost though.
Gforce might do a
custom setup for you, but it is not flexible at all.
If you change anything,
you need a new custom ECU. I highly doubt
Gforce would do a custom
without alot of $$$.
Date: Thu, 14 Feb 2002 04:30:03 -0500
From: "Bill
vp" <
billvp@highstream.net>
Subject:
Team3S: gforce ecu upgrade only (no vpc/safc or arc2)?
What would be the
problem with running a G-Force ECU with upgraded injectors
& pump, along
with 15G's at whatever boost pressure is seen to be knock-free
according to a
datalogger? Supposedly it will give the ecm new fuel maps
and will help
with the timing retard problems associated with installing new
injectors
& fooling the ecm as to airflow. Why can we not just run this?
I
understand that I would not get the gain that is associated with
removing
the mass airflow sensor, but if that is the only reason, it is not
enough to
dissuade me. I want something that is fairly simple -- plug
'n play, and
doesn't require endless tuning depending upon the various
weather changes.
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 15 Feb 2002 10:58:42
-0800 (PST)
From: menalteed <
menalteed@yahoo.com>
Subject:
Team3S: Stealth starter, altenator, oil pump?
I have a question about
some parts that have 83k on
them. Now that I'm in the process of changing to
up
grade turbos 13G's,
and I have my 92 Stealth torn apart as much as I
ever
have, do one of the people that are reasonable
mechanics have a
opinion
on changing my oil pump at this time? Also would it be
a great
time to change brushes and bearings on the
alternator and
starter. It
seems to me they will be the next to go,
how long do these things last,
starters, alternators
and oil pumps. Several
Months ago my fuel pump went
out when I was three
hundred miles from home on a freeway, "cost a
small
fortune", My pearl
white 92TT is looking more like a white
elephant then
a sleek auto. It is paid for but keeping it in shape,
seems
I could buy a
new Audi for about the same price yearly. I love
my
steath!
Peter
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 15 Feb 2002 13:09:39
-0600
From: "Willis, Charles E." <
cewillis@TexasChildrensHospital.org>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: Stealth starter, altenator, oil pump?
> -----Original
Message-----
> From: menalteed [SMTP:menalteed@yahoo.com]
> Sent:
Friday, February 15, 2002 12:59 PM
> To: Team3S
> Subject: Team3S:
Stealth starter, altenator, oil pump?
>
> I have a question about
some parts that have 83k on
> them.
[Willis, Charles E.] I have a
93VR4 with 94K miles and my son has a
93VR4 with 110K miles. So far we
have replaced front wheel bearings (and
rear ones too on his), the clutch
(and rear main engine seal) on mine, the
alternator and idler pulleys on
mine, mine appears to be leaking from the
steering gear box, and an ECU on
mine. This is in addition to the 60K
maintenance items, timing belt
replacement, water pump, replacement, plugs
and fuel filters. A wise
old saying is that if it ain't broke don't fix it,
but you might consider
wheel bearing replacements in the near future.
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 15 Feb 2002 11:21:27
-0800
From: ARMIN MEIER <
guetch@shaw.ca>
Subject: Team3S:
re:Tema3s:Stealth, starter ,alternator
Peter,
I can only speak for
the alternator but at 83k I would not touch it. With
103k I had to take it
out for a regulator and two shorted diode but the
brushes looked like brand
new and very little brush dust to boot.
The bearings are very quiet and back
it went. I bank for 200k before bearing
change.
Good
luck
Armin
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 15 Feb 2002 13:31:14
-0600
From: "cody" <
overclck@satx.rr.com>
Subject: RE:
Team3S: re:Tema3s:Stealth, starter ,alternator
I agree...
Alternator with 130K miles almost on mine and it still turns
perfectly, no
bearing play, no nothing... Same for the starter... I
removed it,
greased it once cause it was making some noise right after
it spun up, and
has been good as new since then...
- -Cody
- -----Original
Message-----
From:
owner-team3s@team3s.com
[mailto:owner-team3s@team3s.com] On Behalf
Of ARMIN MEIER
Sent: Friday,
February 15, 2002 1:21 PM
To: STEALTH
Subject: Team3S: re:Tema3s:Stealth,
starter ,alternator
Peter,
I can only speak for the alternator but
at 83k I would not touch it.
With
103k I had to take it out for a
regulator and two shorted diode but the
brushes looked like brand new and
very little brush dust to boot.
The bearings are very quiet and back it went.
I bank for 200k before
bearing
change.
Good
luck
Armin
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 15 Feb 2002 11:53:07
-0800 (PST)
From: menalteed <
menalteed@yahoo.com>
Subject:
Team3S: Dip stick guilde removel
Section 11-22 of the Service Manual and
my own desire
to change the turbo oil feed line to keep in
complience with
the warrenty requies the removel of
the dip stick guide. It looks quite
simple and I have
removed the 12mm bolt that holds the guide. Looks
like
it should just come right up but it dosen't. Has
anyone removed this
guide before and is there a trick
to it. I would hate to break things or have
to repair
a seal or something.
peter in a struggle with my
stealth.
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 15 Feb 2002 13:05:19
-0700
From: Wayne <
whietala@prodigy.net>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: Dip stick guilde removel
Pull really hard while
twisting
W
At 11:53 AM 2/15/02 -0800, menalteed
wrote:
>Section 11-22 of the Service Manual and my own desire
>to
change the turbo oil feed line to keep in
>complience with the warrenty
requies the removel of
>the dip stick guide. It looks quite simple and I
have
>removed the 12mm bolt that holds the guide. Looks like
>it
should just come right up but it dosen't. Has
>anyone removed this guide
before and is there a trick
>to it. I would hate to break things or have
to repair
>a seal or something.
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 15 Feb 2002 18:19:37
-0000
From: "Sam Shelat" <
sshelat@erols.com>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: Rear Camber - lowering with Teins, GC etc
I have intrax in my
95VR-4 and never did a new alignment since the swap. I
assume I have
excessive camber in the back and front, but wahts odd is that
the outside of
the tires after 8000 miles looks like it is wearing a little
faster then the
insides. The rear 555 nitto extremes still look almost new.
What
gives? I was going to get an alignment, but the only time the car
seems
like its set wrong is when its raining and the car will start to
get
squirrley above 60mph.
Sam
- -----Original
Message-----
From: Todd D.Shelton <
tds@brightok.net>
To:
Team3S@stealth-3000gt.st <
Team3S@stealth-3000gt.st>
Date:
Friday, February 15, 2002 3:55 AM
Subject: Re: Team3S: Rear Camber - lowering
with Teins, GC etc
>-----Original Message-----
>From: fastmax
<
fastmax@cox.net>
>To: Todd
D.Shelton <
tds@brightok.net>;
Team3S@stealth-3000gt.st><
Team3S@stealth-3000gt.st>
>Date:
Thursday, February 14, 2002 6:54 PM
>Subject: Re: Team3S: Rear Camber -
lowering with Teins, GC etc
>
>>Welcome to the money pit of car
handling --- as you mentioned
>>I run quite a bit of negative camber [
-1½º ]. Handling is great but
>>so is the wear, luckily my racing wears
the outside edge and the
>>excess camber wears the inside
edge.
>>
>>Your options are:
>>
>>Go
racing [ my personal favorite ]
>>
>>don't lower the car
as much [ this is for wusses ]
>>
>>Set it the best you can
and live with it [ my tires are about $170 each
]
>>
>>Elongate the adjustment holes in the rear --- it's not
brain surgery but
>>not for the faint of heart either. The trick is to
find a shop who is
>>willing to take a chance on modifying the cars
suspension.
>>
>>Look in the 3SI.com archives --- somebody is
making an adjustable
>>rear control arm. It's on my list also but he
beat me to it. I'm not
>>sure as to progress or
cost.
>>
>> Jim
Berry
>>=============================================
>
>So
it looks like unless/until Paul is able
>to build the new rear control arm
then
>we're pretty much SOL unless we can
>find a shop that can
cut/hack/drill a solution?
>
>I'll try and contact Paul and see if
that is going
>to come about before resorting to the
other.
>
>Until then I may have to keep on driving fast
so
>the outer wear matches the inner .... that should
>work
out for a while but hopefully the upper control
>arm will be the end
all.
>
>Drive fast and rotate often - maybe that will
>buy
some time until the control arms are ready?
>(fingers
crossed)
>
>I just hope the rear is not much worse than now
since
>I'm planning on going lower still. The Eibachs
are
>barely noticable as far as drop ....
>
>-
tds
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 15 Feb 2002 16:49:33
-0800
From: "fastmax" <
fastmax@cox.net>
Subject: Re: Team3S:
Rear Camber - lowering with Teins, GC etc
If you lowered the car and
didn't get an alignment you've got a potential
mess for an alignment. The
biggest changes are camber and toe --- if you're
running excessive camber and
toe in you'll get weird wear patterns and
weird
handling.
Jim
Berry
=============================================
- ----- Original
Message -----
From: "Sam Shelat" <
sshelat@erols.com>
To: "Todd
D.Shelton" <
tds@brightok.net>;
<
Team3S@stealth-3000gt.st>
Sent:
Friday, February 15, 2002 10:19 AM
Subject: Re: Team3S: Rear Camber -
lowering with Teins, GC etc
| I have intrax in my 95VR-4 and never did a
new alignment since the swap. I
| assume I have excessive camber in the
back and front, but wahts odd is that
| the outside of the tires after 8000
miles looks like it is wearing a little
| faster then the insides. The
rear 555 nitto extremes still look almost new.
| What gives? I was
going to get an alignment, but the only time the car
| seems like its set
wrong is when its raining and the car will start to get
| squirrley above
60mph.
|
| Sam
| -----Original Message-----
| From: Todd D.Shelton
<
tds@brightok.net>
| To:
Team3S@stealth-3000gt.st <
Team3S@stealth-3000gt.st>
|
Date: Friday, February 15, 2002 3:55 AM
| Subject: Re: Team3S: Rear Camber -
lowering with Teins, GC etc
|
| >-----Original Message-----
|
>From: fastmax <
fastmax@cox.net>
| >To: Todd
D.Shelton <
tds@brightok.net>;
Team3S@stealth-3000gt.st|
><
Team3S@stealth-3000gt.st>
|
>Date: Thursday, February 14, 2002 6:54 PM
| >Subject: Re: Team3S: Rear
Camber - lowering with Teins, GC etc
| >
| >>Welcome to the money
pit of car handling --- as you mentioned
| >>I run quite a bit of
negative camber [ -1½º ]. Handling is great but
| >>so is the wear,
luckily my racing wears the outside edge and the
| >>excess camber
wears the inside edge.
| >>
| >>Your options are:
|
>>
| >>Go racing [ my personal favorite ]
|
>>
| >>don't lower the car as much [ this is for wusses ]
|
>>
| >>Set it the best you can and live with it [ my tires are
about $170 each ]
| >>
| >>Elongate the adjustment holes in
the rear --- it's not brain surgery but
| >>not for the faint of heart
either. The trick is to find a shop who is
| >>willing to take a chance
on modifying the cars suspension.
| >>
| >>Look in the 3SI.com
archives --- somebody is making an adjustable
| >>rear control arm.
It's on my list also but he beat me to it. I'm not
| >>sure as to
progress or cost.
| >>
|
>> Jim Berry
|
>>=============================================
| >
| >So it
looks like unless/until Paul is able
| >to build the new rear control arm
then
| >we're pretty much SOL unless we can
| >find a shop that can
cut/hack/drill a solution?
| >
| >I'll try and contact Paul and see
if that is going
| >to come about before resorting to the other.
|
>
| >Until then I may have to keep on driving fast so
| >the
outer wear matches the inner .... that should
| >work out for a
while but hopefully the upper control
| >arm will be the end all.
|
>
| >Drive fast and rotate often - maybe that will
| >buy some
time until the control arms are ready?
| >(fingers crossed)
| >
|
>I just hope the rear is not much worse than now since
| >I'm planning
on going lower still. The Eibachs are
| >barely noticable as far as
drop ....
| >
| >- tds
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 15 Feb 2002 17:39:20
-0800
From: "radanc" <
radanc@cox.net>
Subject: Re: Team3S:
gforce ecu upgrade only
Matt Money has used this upgrade effectively as
well with some good runs on
one of his cars to prove it. There is the timing
and rev limiter functions
that can be reset in addition to fuel mapping. In
conjunction with ARC2 unit
in his car.
Rich
- ----- Original
Message -----
From: "Chris Winkley" <
cwinkley@plaza.ds.adp.com>
To:
"'Bill vp'" <
billvp@highstream.net>;
"team3/S"
<
team3S@stealth-3000gt.st>
Sent:
Friday, February 15, 2002 8:19 AM
Subject: RE: Team3S: gforce ecu upgrade
only
> Bill...
>
> Four words..."Let the buyer
beware".
>
> Five years ago, when I bought my VR4, it seemed to me I
should be able to
do
> exactly what you describe, add a modified ECU
that was mapped to my mods
and
> not have to fiddle with knobs and
dials. All the racers on the list
> (starnet) back then, who later
migrated to the Team3S list when we created
> it for technical
discussions, assured me that the G-Force ECU upgrade
would
> not do the
trick and encouraged me to buy a VPC/AFC or some other manual
> air/fuel
controller.
>
> Being a big believer in the miracles of modern
electronic technology, I
saw
> no reason why I should not be able to do
what they had done without the
> knobs and dials so after I had done my
intake, exhaust, injectors, fuel
> pump, turbos, etc., I went ahead and
negotiated a deal with Robert O'Toole
> of G-Force. Robert assured me he
could indeed create specific maps for my
> mods that would maximize my
performance. Three sets of chips later, many
> dollars worth of fouled
plugs, lousy runs down the 1/4 mile, marginal
street
> performance, and
18 months of working with G-Force I tore the damn thing
out
> and
bought the ARC2/MAF w/Split Second A/F meter. I should've listened to
>
those who had walked this ground before and saved myself the
anguish.
>
> There's only two people I know of who still have a
G-Force ECU, both of
whom
> STILL have an additional fuel controller to
modify the maps provided by
> G-Force (Roger Gerl and Arty Shevack). If
G-Force is still in business it
> certainly wouldn't be the result of a
recommendation from me.
>
> Looking forward...Chris
***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 15 Feb 2002 17:43:57
-0800
From: "radanc" <
radanc@cox.net>
Subject: Re: Team3S:
gforce ecu upgrade only
It looks like G-Force still is in business. Their
new name is
"Technosquare".
Rich
- ----- Original Message
-----
From: "radanc" <
radanc@cox.net>
To: "Chris Winkley"
<
cwinkley@plaza.ds.adp.com>;
"'Bill vp'"
<
billvp@highstream.net>; "team3/S"
<
team3S@stealth-3000gt.st>
Sent:
Friday, February 15, 2002 5:39 PM
Subject: Re: Team3S: gforce ecu upgrade
only
> Matt Money has used this upgrade effectively as well with some
good runs
on
> one of his cars to prove it. There is the timing and rev
limiter functions
> that can be reset in addition to fuel mapping. In
conjunction with ARC2
unit
> in his car.
>
> Rich
>
----- Original Message -----
> From: "Chris Winkley" <
cwinkley@plaza.ds.adp.com>
>
To: "'Bill vp'" <
billvp@highstream.net>;
"team3/S"
> <
team3S@stealth-3000gt.st>
>
Sent: Friday, February 15, 2002 8:19 AM
> Subject: RE: Team3S: gforce ecu
upgrade only
>
>
> > Bill...
> >
> > Four
words..."Let the buyer beware".
> >
> > Five years ago, when I
bought my VR4, it seemed to me I should be able
to
> do
> >
exactly what you describe, add a modified ECU that was mapped to my mods
>
and
> > not have to fiddle with knobs and dials. All the racers on the
list
> > (starnet) back then, who later migrated to the Team3S list
when we
created
> > it for technical discussions, assured me that
the G-Force ECU upgrade
> would
> > not do the trick and
encouraged me to buy a VPC/AFC or some other manual
> > air/fuel
controller.
> >
> > Being a big believer in the miracles of
modern electronic technology, I
> saw
> > no reason why I should
not be able to do what they had done without the
> > knobs and dials so
after I had done my intake, exhaust, injectors, fuel
> > pump, turbos,
etc., I went ahead and negotiated a deal with Robert
O'Toole
> > of
G-Force. Robert assured me he could indeed create specific maps
for
my
> > mods that would maximize my performance. Three sets of
chips later, many
> > dollars worth of fouled plugs, lousy runs down
the 1/4 mile, marginal
> street
> > performance, and 18 months of
working with G-Force I tore the damn thing
> out
> > and bought
the ARC2/MAF w/Split Second A/F meter. I should've listened
to
> >
those who had walked this ground before and saved myself the anguish.
>
>
> > There's only two people I know of who still have a G-Force
ECU, both of
> whom
> > STILL have an additional fuel controller
to modify the maps provided by
> > G-Force (Roger Gerl and Arty
Shevack). If G-Force is still in business
it
> > certainly wouldn't
be the result of a recommendation from me.
> >
> > Looking
forward...Chris
> >
> > 1995 Glacier Pearl White VR4 (w/custom
K&N intake, bored and polished
> > throttle body, TEC 15G turbos,
RC 560cc injectors, HKS fuel pump,
ARC2/MAF
> > fuel controller,
Split Second A/F meter, GReddy PRofec A boost
controller,
> > Apex
EGT & boost gauges, GReddy turbo timer, HKS SBOV, custom
>
intercoolers,
> > Odyssey dry cell battery, Magnecore 8.5mm wires, NGK
double platinum
plugs
> > gapped at .032", ACT 2800 lb pressure
plate, Broward six puck racing
disc,
> > Centerforce throwout
bearing, ATR downpipe and test pipe, GReddy catback
> > exhaust,
Stillen cross-drilled rotors, Porterfield R4 race pads, SS
brake
> >
lines, Eibach 1" drop progressive springs, Michelin SX MXX3 Pilots)
>
>
> > -----Original Message-----
> > From: Bill vp
[mailto:billvp@highstream.net]
> > Sent: Thursday, February 14, 2002
1:34 PM
> > To: team3/S
> > Subject: RE: Team3S: gforce ecu
upgrade only
> >
> > I should have been more specific. I
currently have 15G turbos (on stock
> > boost), a full exhaust, intake,
bov, boost controller, etc. and am going
> to
> > install 550cc
injectors and a Walbro 255 fuel pump. For these mods,
what
>
is
> > holding me back from just getting the GForce ecu instead of
either the
> > vpc/safc or the arc2? The gforce ecu will have new
fuel maps for the
550
> > injectors and the 15G turbos,
correct? I understand that it is a static
> > upgrade, and if
later on I decide to upgrade turbos or injectors
FURTHER,
> > that I
would need to purchase an additional upgraded ecu.
> >
> > My
understanding of the gforce was that you (I) tell them your mods and
>
they
> > will make a custom ecu for you, for around $800. Then
you can have the
> > daily driveability of a stock car.
>
>
> > Is this incorrect information?
> >
> >
-----Original Message-----
> > From:
jacomj@aur.alcatel.com
[mailto:jacomj@aur.alcatel.com]On Behalf Of
> > Marc Jonathan
Jacobs
> > Sent: Thursday, February 14, 2002 12:23 PM
> > To:
Bill vp
> > Subject: Team3S: gforce ecu upgrade only
>
>
> > The Gforce ECU has new fuel maps for the stock injectors (pump
doesn't
> > matter here). This gets a few more horsepower out of
the stock system.
> > If you change injector size, then you need some
other method of fuel
> > computer. Otherwise it will not idle, or
run well at all. It should
> > run fine at 5000 RPM at max boost
though.
> >
> > Gforce might do a custom setup for you, but it
is not flexible at all.
> > If you change anything, you need a new
custom ECU. I highly doubt
> > Gforce would do a custom without
alot of $$$.
> >
> > Date: Thu, 14 Feb 2002 04:30:03
-0500
> > From: "Bill vp" <
billvp@highstream.net>
> >
Subject: Team3S: gforce ecu upgrade only (no vpc/safc or arc2)?
>
>
> > What would be the problem with running a G-Force ECU with
upgraded
> injectors
> > & pump, along with 15G's at whatever
boost pressure is seen to be
> knock-free
> > according to a
datalogger? Supposedly it will give the ecm new fuel
maps
> >
and will help with the timing retard problems associated with installing
>
new
> > injectors & fooling the ecm as to airflow. Why can we
not just run
this?
> I
> > understand that I would not get the
gain that is associated with
removing
> > the mass airflow sensor,
but if that is the only reason, it is not
enough
> to
> >
dissuade me. I want something that is fairly simple -- plug 'n
play,
and
> > doesn't require endless tuning depending upon the
various weather
changes.
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 15 Feb 2002 20:32:54
-0700
From: Wayne <
whietala@prodigy.net>
Subject:
Team3S: Sway bar install
Well,
I got my sway bars today, and got them
in.
Of course they didn't come with instructions, so i'm unsure about how all
the parts for the front links go together. The 2 bolts are different, and
there are several bushings.
I know somebody posted a link to the
install page, can you post it again?
In case you are wondering how i got
them in so fast, my car is basically a
"shell" right now, with all
interior/trims/exterior panels/ and suspension
removed.
If anybody
can replace that rear bar without completely dropping the entire
subframe
and pulling out from under the car, you are the new god i worship.
My
subframe was 20 feet from where the car sits, and it was still a major
pain
in the butt.
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 15 Feb 2002 21:34:29
-0600
From: "Eric Cheek" <
echeek@cox-internet.com>
Subject:
Team3S: Quick question on further diagnostics of active suspension
system
OK, After reading Chuck Willis' post on using an analog voltmeter,
I tried
it and the system gave me the 6 long, 3 short deflections, so I pull
the
wiring harness off the right rear shock. (Passenger side).
I Tested it
for continuity and it tests fine. So I'm guessing a twisted
shaft? How do I
check for that and is it repairable? When I was taking the
boot off, it
struck me as strange that the wiring came connected to the top
of the shock
in such a way that the opening of the boot was facing into the
rear hatch
area, instead of outward toward the side of the car. I'll see
about posting
pictures later this weekend. Anyhow does that sound right? The
drivers side
shock cover is situated so that the opening that the wiring
comes out towards
the outside of the car. Also the cover on the right side
(passenger) was
loose.
Thanks ;)...
Eric Cheek 92 VR4 3Si # 1164
***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Sat, 16 Feb 2002 04:30:59
-0500
From: "Bill vp" <
billvp@highstream.net>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: Montero crank swap ?
as some of you undoubtedly know, there
is someone on 3si.org that is
supposedly well on his way to doing this (if
this is not one of you ;) )
http://www.3si.org/vbb/showthread.php?s=&threadid=60064-
-----Original Message-----
From: kormex
[mailto:kormex@earthlink.net]
Sent: Wednesday, February 13, 2002 1:13
PM
To: Floyd, Jim
Subject: Re: Montero crank swap ? - Frank's input
?
Jim,
The Montero 3.5 engine has a longer stroke ,so you would need
to cutom make
connecting rods ,also you need to check for block clearance and
maybe even
cut the inside of the block for clearance like they do to stroke
the ford
302's
Yes Jim I remember the thread ,I even measures some
parts of the 3.5 engine
as I was typing ,the thread should still be around
.
Frank Martin
> -----Original Message-----
> From:
pvg1@daimlerchrysler.com
[mailto:pvg1@daimlerchrysler.com]
> Sent: Wednesday, February 13, 2002
10:48 AM
> To:
team3s@team3s.com> Subject: Re:
Team3S: Montero crank swap?
>
> >I see two items that might
prevent this: journal outer
> >diameters and pin outer diameters are
different.
>
> It would be cool to have a 3.5L 3S! Maybe even 3.6L
with a bored-out
block.
> If the bore spacing is the same then a
different crank could be made to
fit
> with more or less success. Rod
pin diameters are not a problem because
> custom shorter rods (and maybe
shorter piston skirts) will be required
> anyway. But different diameter
and/or width main journals are more
> difficult. Jeff, can you check what
that difference in diameters is?
>
> Philip
***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Sat, 16 Feb 2002 12:33:38
-0800
From: Rich Fowler <
richfowler2@cox.net>
Subject:
Team3S: Dual Walbro Fuel Pump Installation
I found great instructions for
installing dual Walbro pumps, unfortunately
they are for the Supra. Now
I'm aware that the fuel pump bracket/sending
unit is much shorter on our cars
than a Supra. They can use a 90 deg.
bulkhead; 1/2" line to barb
fitting; Y splitter; two walbos; all inside the
tank for a clean
install. See the two links for pics and instructions:
http://supra400hptt.homestead.com/supra.html
(this one looks great)
http://www.wotm.com/racing/billy94/fuel.htmlNow
I drilled a 3/4" hole where the stock line used to be for a -8
bulkhead
fitting. Should I patch this with a plate & gasket and use
two -6 bulkhead
fittings, one for each pump? Then, I could have the Y
outside of the tank
and run a single line up to the rails. There really
isn't too much working
room on the bracket....let me know what you
think.
PS - sorry if this one goes out twice - I sent the first one from
my old
@home email address by mistake.
Rich
***
Info:
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***
------------------------------
End of Team3S: 3000GT &
Stealth V1
#755
***************************************