Team3S: 3000GT & Stealth Friday, February 15
2002 Volume 01 : Number
754
----------------------------------------------------------------------
Date:
Thu, 14 Feb 2002 11:02:40 -0500
From: "Darren Schilberg" <
dschilberg@pobox.com>
Subject: RE:
Team3S: OT: Tranny Issues (REALLY LONG)
Not sure about foreign currencies
in PayPal. Just give it a shot and
send US $1 to someone and let us
know. I imagine the bank will suck it
out of your account and use the
bank's current exchange rate, throw in a
percentage for their transaction,
plop it into the other person's
account making sure that your US $1 is
equivalent to their currency at
the current rate, and keep whatever is
leftover as profit.
But to be safe you might want to find the exchange
rate yourself and see
if a money order/bank transfer/etc. is cheaper or
simpler.
I was wondering the same thing about getting GTO (Japan) parts
or
something from New Zealand if the GTO rear plates (between the
brake
lights) were not available in the US ... or a driver's seat from
a
right-hand drive car for the passenger to cruise in comfort (since
I
have a race seat in my driver's side sometimes it would allow
the
passenger or Instructor to have a power seat, lumbar, etc. ...
which
helps to get bumped into the next faster class when you give them
A/C,
radio, power seat, etc. ... heh ... fun with gadgets).
-
--Flash!
1995 VR-4
- -----Original Message-----
From:
fastmax
Sent: Thursday, February 14, 2002 10:52
Steve --- what
new parts are available for you --- bearings, output
shafts and
Kormex
syncro rings are available, every thing else is used.
Knocklink --- if
you can get a total on the unit plus shipping I'll get
you the
money and
test a unit out with my data logger. Does Paypal
do
international
transfers ???
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 14 Feb 2002 09:45:35
-0700
From: "Floyd, Jim" <
Jim_Floyd@maxtor.com>
Subject: RE:
Team3S: OT: Tranny Issues (REALLY LONG)
I purchased a right side driver's
seat from New Zealand using my
credit card.
- -----Original
Message-----
From: Darren Schilberg [mailto:dschilberg@pobox.com]
Sent:
Thursday, February 14, 2002 9:03 AM
To:
team3s@stealth-3000gt.stSubject:
RE: Team3S: OT: Tranny Issues (REALLY LONG)
Not sure about foreign
currencies in PayPal. Just give it a shot and
send US $1 to someone and
let us know. I imagine the bank will suck it
out of your account and
use the bank's current exchange rate, throw in a
percentage for their
transaction, plop it into the other person's
account making sure that your US
$1 is equivalent to their currency at
the current rate, and keep whatever is
leftover as profit.
But to be safe you might want to find the exchange
rate yourself and see
if a money order/bank transfer/etc. is cheaper or
simpler.
I was wondering the same thing about getting GTO (Japan) parts
or
something from New Zealand if the GTO rear plates (between the
brake
lights) were not available in the US ... or a driver's seat from
a
right-hand drive car for the passenger to cruise in comfort (since
I
have a race seat in my driver's side sometimes it would allow
the
passenger or Instructor to have a power seat, lumbar, etc. ...
which
helps to get bumped into the next faster class when you give them
A/C,
radio, power seat, etc. ... heh ... fun with gadgets).
-
--Flash!
1995 VR-4
- -----Original Message-----
From:
fastmax
Sent: Thursday, February 14, 2002 10:52
Steve --- what
new parts are available for you --- bearings, output
shafts and
Kormex
syncro rings are available, every thing else is used.
Knocklink --- if
you can get a total on the unit plus shipping I'll get
you the
money and
test a unit out with my data logger. Does Paypal
do
international
transfers ???
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 14 Feb 2002 12:28:07
-0500
From: "Tom Terflinger" <
terflit@hotmail.com>
Subject:
Team3S: 20 to 10mpg in a week!
Hello all,
I will try to keep this
short as possible. I am used to 19-21mpg in my
92VR4, after a recent dealer
tune-up I am averaging 10mpg!!! I cant afford
to drive my car very long
having to fill up every 3 days. I have some HKS
components aftermarket, a
VPC, a graphic control computer and a EVC. I am
not sure how to properly set
any of them and the dealership screwed them up
I believe. Also the battery
was disconnected for a short time so I think
that cleared their "learned
settings etc" I can find little info on what
these components do and nothing
on how to tune them. Any help will be very
much appreciated!
On a
side note the car has recently developed an exaughst leak around both
flex
pipes which may have some bearing on my situation. This will be fixed
this
sat. for those of you who havent priced them I was told $600.00 to buy
one
from mitsubishi, $900.00 and 3 month wait to get one sent from Japan! Or
$400.00 to have one fabricated from stainless
steel...
Thanks,
Tom
92VR4
TNT3KGT
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 14 Feb 2002 12:12:42
-0600
From: "Vineet Singh \(3S\)" <
stealthtt@ecanfix.com>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Tranny Issues & 3 .5l strokers
I had a crunchy downshift
to 1st if I was moving even .5 mph... 2nd
was getting notchy. A week before
the new owner picked the car up for
good, I finally learned how to *double
clutch properly. Poof, all my
problems disappeared. I could go into any gear
whenever I wanted,
though it took maybe .5-1 seconds longer to do so. The 92
TT's tranny
was supposedly original with 100,000k on it before
problems.
I know, not always optimal for racing, but my point is, if you
change
your shifting habits while you are driving around (not everyone
races
there car EVERYWHERE do they? :), for the 95% of the life of the
car,
properly change the fluids, and maintain it properly... I see
the
tranny's lasting well into the 150k+'s. The trannys overall are
NOT
badly designed, just the synchro's. Maybe it has to do with the
AWD
packaging (new design), maybe it's because Mitsubishi chose to
use
cheaper internals when presented with the final design by
Getrag
(likely, look at the current eclipse!), maybe it's all the torque
the
3.0 puts out especially at 12psi around 4000rpm.
Get a new tranny
installed, or start today... double clutch everywhere
you can, unless you are
in an emergency maneuver, and see how long it
lasts. I bet it will go for a
very long time, around the time you
would need an engine rebuild too hehe
:)
Oh, and those of you thinking of the 3.5l crank... don't you
think
there is enough torque to ruin drivetrain parts already? :) I have
two
strokers (4g63), and we had to clearance the block, the main caps,
the
oil pan (dent it out a little), and have a semi-bad rod/stroke
ratio,
so it cannot rev high. Custom pistons with the wristpin higher
up,
machined/modded stock rods, and some other minor things had to
be
done. Run 10's with the 3.0 block first, then worry about stroking
it,
unless you have another reason (road racing etc, but I think it
would
be less reliable).
*for beginners -
http://www.driversedge.com/dblcltch.htm**Can
also be applied with modification to high rpm UPSHIFTS
*more indepth -
http://integra.vtec.net/driving/dclutch.htmlVinny
Singh -
http://www.manualcd.com/ -
Service Manuals on CD for your DSM or 3/S!
http://kaizen.eaglecars.com/***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 14 Feb 2002 11:57:26
-0600
From: "Jannusch, Matt" <
mjannusch@marketwatch.com>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: 20 to 10mpg in a week!
> I will try to keep this short as
possible. I am used to
> 19-21mpg in my 92VR4, after a recent dealer
tune-up I am
> averaging 10mpg!!!
Nice tune-up... What did
they work on or replace?
> I cant afford to drive my car very long
having to fill up
> every 3 days. I have some HKS components aftermarket,
a
> VPC, a graphic control computer and a EVC. I am not sure
> how
to properly set any of them and the dealership screwed
> them up I
believe.
Lesson #1: Keep records of all your settings before
letting ANYONE use your
car. People like to mess with things they
shouldn't mess with. If you
don't know how to set the stuff, why have
it in the car? Now you get to
learn how to set them... Do you
have an air/fuel ratio meter? You'll need
one at a minimum to set the
VPC and GCC.
> On a side note the car has recently developed an
exaughst
> leak around both flex pipes which may have some
bearing
> on my situation. This will be fixed this sat. for those
of
> you who havent priced them I was told $600.00 to buy
> one
from mitsubishi, $900.00 and 3 month wait to get one sent
> from Japan!
Or $400.00 to have one fabricated from
> stainless steel...
You
could get an aftermarket downpipe (which is what I assume you mean by
"flex
pipes"). If you want to preserve all the catalytic converters and
such,
then go with the Alamo downpipe (which unfortunately now for some
reason is
really* expensive at $582!!!). If you don't mind losing the
front
pre-cat and main cat (illegal for street use) those are $370. The
ATR
downpipe is $320 from Dynamic Racing and can use a 3" cat if you want,
or
eliminate the main cat.
The Stillen pipe has a flex-section, the
ATR is solid.
http://www.dynamicracing.com-
-Matt
'95 3000GT Spyder VR4
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 14 Feb 2002 12:21:43
-0000
From: "Sam Shelat" <
sshelat@erols.com>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: 20 to 10mpg in a week!
As far as the downpipe leak, buy an
aftermarket one for about $350-450 and
be done with it. With all that
other stuff on your car, I wonder why the
previous owner stuck the stock one
back on? Or you could get on
www.3si.organd offer to buy one from somebody
for $100 or so. I am sure people have
one laying around they don't
need. I use mine for smog checks every two
years.
Sam
-
-----Original Message-----
From: Tom Terflinger <
terflit@hotmail.com>
To:
Team3S@stealth-3000gt.st <
Team3S@stealth-3000gt.st>
Date:
Thursday, February 14, 2002 5:40 PM
Subject: Team3S: 20 to 10mpg in a
week!
>Hello all,
>I will try to keep this short as possible. I
am used to 19-21mpg in my
>92VR4, after a recent dealer tune-up I am
averaging 10mpg!!! I cant afford
>to drive my car very long having to fill
up every 3 days. I have some HKS
>components aftermarket, a VPC, a graphic
control computer and a EVC. I am
>not sure how to properly set any of them
and the dealership screwed them up
>I believe. Also the battery was
disconnected for a short time so I think
>that cleared their "learned
settings etc" I can find little info on what
>these components do and
nothing on how to tune them. Any help will be very
>much
appreciated!
>
>On a side note the car has recently developed an
exaughst leak around both
>flex pipes which may have some bearing on my
situation. This will be fixed
>this sat. for those of you who havent
priced them I was told $600.00 to buy
>one from mitsubishi, $900.00 and 3
month wait to get one sent from Japan!
Or
>$400.00 to have one
fabricated from stainless
steel...
>
>
>Thanks,
>Tom
>92VR4
>TNT3KGT
***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 14 Feb 2002 11:37:56
-0700
From: Dave Monarchi <
monarchd@refuge.Colorado.EDU>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: 20 to 10mpg in a week!
I could have sworn I just saw a stock
DP on ebay..
yup, here it is:
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/aw-cgi/ebayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=1804575160&r=0&t=0currently
at $22.50 with about 4 days to go.
Dave
=======================
=
95 Black 3000GT VR4 =
= 87 Mica Red GTI G60 =
http://ucsu.colorado.edu/~monarchd/cars.html
= There is no spoon.. =
=======================
+> As far as
the downpipe leak, buy an aftermarket one for about $350-450 and
+> be
done with it. With all that other stuff on your car, I wonder why
the
+> previous owner stuck the stock one back on? Or you could get
on
www.3si.org+> and offer to buy one
from somebody for $100 or so. I am sure people have
+> one laying
around they don't need. I use mine for smog checks every two
+>
years.
+>
+> Sam
+> -----Original Message-----
+> From:
Tom Terflinger <
terflit@hotmail.com>
+> To:
Team3S@stealth-3000gt.st <
Team3S@stealth-3000gt.st>
+>
Date: Thursday, February 14, 2002 5:40 PM
+> Subject: Team3S: 20 to 10mpg
in a week!
+>
+>
+> >Hello all,
+> >I will try
to keep this short as possible. I am used to 19-21mpg in my
+> >92VR4,
after a recent dealer tune-up I am averaging 10mpg!!! I cant afford
+>
>to drive my car very long having to fill up every 3 days. I have some
HKS
+> >components aftermarket, a VPC, a graphic control computer and a
EVC. I am
+> >not sure how to properly set any of them and the
dealership screwed them up
+> >I believe. Also the battery was
disconnected for a short time so I think
+> >that cleared their
"learned settings etc" I can find little info on what
+> >these
components do and nothing on how to tune them. Any help will be very
+>
>much appreciated!
+> >
+> >On a side note the car has
recently developed an exaughst leak around both
+> >flex pipes which
may have some bearing on my situation. This will be fixed
+> >this sat.
for those of you who havent priced them I was told $600.00 to buy
+>
>one from mitsubishi, $900.00 and 3 month wait to get one sent from
Japan!
+> Or
+> >$400.00 to have one fabricated from stainless
steel...
+> >
+> >Thanks,
+> >Tom
+>
>92VR4
+> >TNT3KGT
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 14 Feb 2002 15:19:33
-0500
From:
pvg1@daimlerchrysler.comSubject:
Re: Team3S: 20 to 10mpg in a week!
I would sell my stock downpipe. It
only has 45K on it.
BTW, are the 1st gen and the 2nd gen downpipes the
same?
Philip
"Sam Shelat" <
sshelat@erols.com> wrote:
As far as
the downpipe leak, buy an aftermarket one for about $350-450 and
be done with
it. With all that other stuff on your car, I wonder why the
previous
owner stuck the stock one back on? Or you could get on
www.3si.organd offer to buy one from somebody
for $100 or so. I am sure people have
one laying around they don't
need. I use mine for smog checks every
two
years.
Sam
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 14 Feb 2002 16:34:07
-0500
From: "Bill vp" <
billvp@highstream.net>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: gforce ecu upgrade only
I should have been more
specific. I currently have 15G turbos (on stock
boost), a full exhaust,
intake, bov, boost controller, etc. and am going to
install 550cc injectors
and a Walbro 255 fuel pump. For these mods, what is
holding me back
from just getting the GForce ecu instead of either the
vpc/safc or the
arc2? The gforce ecu will have new fuel maps for the 550
injectors and
the 15G turbos, correct? I understand that it is a static
upgrade, and
if later on I decide to upgrade turbos or injectors FURTHER,
that I would
need to purchase an additional upgraded ecu.
My understanding of the
gforce was that you (I) tell them your mods and they
will make a custom ecu
for you, for around $800. Then you can have the
daily driveability of a
stock car.
Is this incorrect information?
- -----Original
Message-----
From:
jacomj@aur.alcatel.com
[mailto:jacomj@aur.alcatel.com]On Behalf Of
Marc Jonathan Jacobs
Sent:
Thursday, February 14, 2002 12:23 PM
To: Bill vp
Subject: Team3S: gforce
ecu upgrade only
The Gforce ECU has new fuel maps for the stock injectors
(pump doesn't
matter here). This gets a few more horsepower out of the
stock system.
If you change injector size, then you need some other method of
fuel
computer. Otherwise it will not idle, or run well at all. It
should
run fine at 5000 RPM at max boost though.
Gforce might do a
custom setup for you, but it is not flexible at all.
If you change anything,
you need a new custom ECU. I highly doubt
Gforce would do a custom
without alot of $$$.
Date: Thu, 14 Feb 2002 04:30:03 -0500
From: "Bill
vp" <
billvp@highstream.net>
Subject:
Team3S: gforce ecu upgrade only (no vpc/safc or arc2)?
What would be the
problem with running a G-Force ECU with upgraded
injectors
& pump,
along with 15G's at whatever boost pressure is seen to
be
knock-free
according to a datalogger? Supposedly it will give the
ecm new fuel
maps
and will help with the timing retard problems associated
with installing
new
injectors & fooling the ecm as to airflow.
Why can we not just run
this? I
understand that I would not get the
gain that is associated with
removing
the mass airflow sensor, but if that
is the only reason, it is not
enough to
dissuade me. I want
something that is fairly simple -- plug 'n play,
and
doesn't require
endless tuning depending upon the various weather
changes.
***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 14 Feb 2002 16:43:36
-0500
From: "Furman, Russell" <
RFurman2@MassMutual.com>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: gforce ecu upgrade only
They will do a custom ECU, its
actually about 900 for a true "custom" set up
and you need to give them
pertinent information, i.e. % of how much larger
your injectors
are vs stock, any timing map changes you would like done
etc..... They
do not get into the real nitty gritty required for tuning.
This was as of
like 2-3 years ago things may have changed since then but
they may have
not.
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Bill vp
[SMTP:billvp@highstream.net]
> Sent: Thursday, February 14, 2002 4:34
PM
> To: team3/S
> Subject: RE: Team3S: gforce ecu upgrade
only
>
> I should have been more specific. I currently have
15G turbos (on stock
> boost), a full exhaust, intake, bov, boost
controller, etc. and am going
> to
> install 550cc injectors and a
Walbro 255 fuel pump. For these mods, what
> is
> holding me
back from just getting the GForce ecu instead of either the
> vpc/safc or
the arc2? The gforce ecu will have new fuel maps for the 550
>
injectors and the 15G turbos, correct? I understand that it is a
static
> upgrade, and if later on I decide to upgrade turbos or injectors
FURTHER,
> that I would need to purchase an additional upgraded
ecu.
>
> My understanding of the gforce was that you (I) tell them
your mods and
> they
> will make a custom ecu for you, for around
$800. Then you can have the
> daily driveability of a stock
car.
>
> Is this incorrect information?
>
>
-----Original Message-----
> From:
jacomj@aur.alcatel.com
[mailto:jacomj@aur.alcatel.com]On Behalf Of
> Marc Jonathan Jacobs
>
Sent: Thursday, February 14, 2002 12:23 PM
> To: Bill vp
> Subject:
Team3S: gforce ecu upgrade only
>
>
> The Gforce ECU has new
fuel maps for the stock injectors (pump doesn't
> matter here). This
gets a few more horsepower out of the stock system.
> If you change
injector size, then you need some other method of fuel
> computer.
Otherwise it will not idle, or run well at all. It should
> run fine
at 5000 RPM at max boost though.
>
> Gforce might do a custom setup
for you, but it is not flexible at all.
> If you change anything, you need
a new custom ECU. I highly doubt
> Gforce would do a custom without
alot of $$$.
>
>
> Date: Thu, 14 Feb 2002 04:30:03
-0500
> From: "Bill vp" <
billvp@highstream.net>
>
Subject: Team3S: gforce ecu upgrade only (no vpc/safc or arc2)?
>
>
What would be the problem with running a G-Force ECU with upgraded
>
injectors
> & pump, along with 15G's at whatever boost pressure is
seen to be
> knock-free
> according to a datalogger?
Supposedly it will give the ecm new fuel
> maps
> and will help with
the timing retard problems associated with installing
> new
>
injectors & fooling the ecm as to airflow. Why can we not just
run
> this? I
> understand that I would not get the gain that
is associated with
> removing
> the mass airflow sensor, but if that
is the only reason, it is not
> enough to
> dissuade me. I
want something that is fairly simple -- plug 'n play,
> and
>
doesn't require endless tuning depending upon the various weather
>
changes.
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 14 Feb 2002 14:05:58
-0800
From: "Gross, Erik" <
erik.gross@intel.com>
Subject: RE:
Team3S: 20 to 10mpg in a week!
> are the 1st gen and the 2nd gen
downpipes the same?
Nope. The rear flange is rotated between
1G/2G.
- --Erik
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 14 Feb 2002 16:33:20
-0600
From: "Willis, Charles E." <
cewillis@TexasChildrensHospital.org>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: 20 to 10mpg in a week!
Did anyone notice whether the e-bay
downpipe was 1st or 2nd gen?
> > are the 1st gen and the 2nd gen
downpipes the same?
>
> Nope. The rear flange is rotated
between 1G/2G.
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 14 Feb 2002 17:52:01
-0500
From: "Eric" <
griz600cc@home.com>
Subject: Team3S:
Suspension - Struts - Prices
Can anyone please explain this for me? (I
apologize for the length)
I called for prices at three places for front and
rear struts for a 93
Stealth ES, this is what I was given for
prices:
Dodge Dealership: (who also recommened me to a aftermarket place
- go
figure??)
Front: $420/pair
Rear: $500/pair
Total:
$920
Mistu Dealership:
Front: $345/pair
Rear: $185/pair
Total:
$530
Aftermarket Place: (I have no interest in this place)
Front:
$245/pair
Rear: $160/pair
Total: $405
Why would there be a $400
differential between Dodge and Mitsu for the same
part?
***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 14 Feb 2002 15:27:01
-0800
From: "fastmax" <
fastmax@cox.net>
Subject: Re: Team3S:
Suspension - Struts - Prices
Using CAPS and Rcokville Mitsu online [
http://www.mitsupartsdirect.com/
]
I find a price of $134 for a front strut, for some reason the CAPS
program
wouldn't show me the rear part
number.
Jim
berry
===========================================
- ----- Original
Message -----
From: "Eric" <
griz600cc@home.com>
To: "Team 3S"
<
Team3S@stealth-3000gt.st>
Sent:
Thursday, February 14, 2002 2:52 PM
Subject: Team3S: Suspension - Struts -
Prices
| Can anyone please explain this for me? (I apologize for the
length)
| I called for prices at three places for front and rear struts for a
93
| Stealth ES, this is what I was given for prices:
|
| Dodge
Dealership: (who also recommened me to a aftermarket place - go
|
figure??)
| Front: $420/pair
| Rear: $500/pair
| Total: $920
|
|
Mistu Dealership:
| Front: $345/pair
| Rear: $185/pair
| Total:
$530
|
| Aftermarket Place: (I have no interest in this place)
|
Front: $245/pair
| Rear: $160/pair
| Total: $405
|
| Why would
there be a $400 differential between Dodge and Mitsu for the same
|
part?
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 14 Feb 2002 17:43:11
-0600
From: "Todd D.Shelton" <
tds@brightok.net>
Subject: Team3S: Rear
Camber - lowering with Teins, GC etc
As I mentioned, I'm going with the
Teins.
Allignment for the front is not a problem
since Tein made
provisions.
However, the back is a problem.
No breaking news
there I know.
We all know this - even with just Eibachs
I have to run
a little bit of negative camber
since that is as close as they could
get
to stock specs.
What now? Please tell me again
what you
all with the GC and Teins
are doing to mod the back in order
to reach - or
at least get close to
stock spec.
I've been told by at least two
people about
having to go to a frame shop where they routed
out the
holes. One of those people said they
also welded the rear suspension
with a permanet
- -1.0 camber. That might be fine for the Intrax he
was
using but doesn't sound as appealing with fully
adjustable type
suspention setups? (the permanent
weld)
Another friend (StealthTT
owner) told me he went
to a frame shop and he thought they used
shims. ????
I don't think he was real sure about this .....
So
what's the scoop? What needs to be done
and why is it something that
only a "frame shop"
seems to be able to do - or knows how to do?
If we
know what needs to be done - can we do
it ourselves or have our favorite
speed shop
do it? Is there some mystical science behind
this that
only special frame shops know about?!
A little bit of negative camber
seems good -
how much before tire wear becomes an
issue? (> 1.0?)
Does frequent rotation help or just
extend the inevidable? Your
experience
and rear camber settings would be helpful.
Jim - I believe
you said you had substantial
wear but you changed tires very often to
deal
with it? (I won't have that luxury with high dollar
street
tires)
Those that have performed the neccessary changes -
how close to
stock specs were you able to get
and how much did you drop your car?
I
have a first gen if that matters. I'm not
going to the track (yet) but
most people
think I believe I'm on one already ....:)
[read: fairly
agressive setup but not full race]
Probably 3-7 on the Teins based on other
owner's
reports/feedback ....
Thanks in advance for answering so many
questions,
feel free to answer any / parts if you can.
- -
tds
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 14 Feb 2002 16:51:10
-0800
From: "fastmax" <
fastmax@cox.net>
Subject: Re: Team3S:
Rear Camber - lowering with Teins, GC etc
Welcome to the money pit of car
handling --- as you mentioned
I run quite a bit of negative camber [ -1½º ].
Handling is great but
so is the wear, luckily my racing wears the outside
edge and the
excess camber wears the inside edge.
Your options
are:
Go racing [ my personal favorite ]
don't lower the car
as much [ this is for wusses ]
Set it the best you can and live with it [
my tires are about $170 each ]
Elongate the adjustment holes in the rear
--- it's not brain surgery but
not for the faint of heart either. The trick
is to find a shop who is
willing to take a chance on modifying the cars
suspension.
Look in the 3SI.com archives --- somebody is making an
adjustable
rear control arm. It's on my list also but he beat me to it. I'm
not
sure as to progress or
cost.
Jim
Berry
=============================================
- ----- Original
Message -----
From: "Todd D.Shelton" <
tds@brightok.net>
To: <
Team3S@stealth-3000gt.st>
Sent:
Thursday, February 14, 2002 3:43 PM
Subject: Team3S: Rear Camber - lowering
with Teins, GC etc
| As I mentioned, I'm going with the Teins.
|
|
Allignment for the front is not a problem
| since Tein made
provisions.
|
| However, the back is a problem.
| No breaking news
there I know.
|
| We all know this - even with just Eibachs
| I have to
run a little bit of negative camber
| since that is as close as they could
get
| to stock specs.
|
| What now? Please tell me again
|
what you all with the GC and Teins
| are doing to mod the back in order
|
to reach - or at least get close to
| stock spec.
|
| I've been told by
at least two people about
| having to go to a frame shop where they
routed
| out the holes. One of those people said they
| also welded
the rear suspension with a permanet
| -1.0 camber. That might be fine
for the Intrax he was
| using but doesn't sound as appealing with fully
|
adjustable type suspention setups? (the permanent
| weld)
|
| Another
friend (StealthTT owner) told me he went
| to a frame shop and he
thought they used shims. ????
| I don't think he was real sure about
this .....
|
|
| So what's the scoop? What needs to be done
|
and why is it something that only a "frame shop"
| seems to be able to do -
or knows how to do?
|
| If we know what needs to be done - can we do
|
it ourselves or have our favorite speed shop
| do it? Is there some
mystical science behind
| this that only special frame shops know
about?!
|
| A little bit of negative camber seems good -
| how much
before tire wear becomes an
| issue? (> 1.0?)
|
| Does
frequent rotation help or just
| extend the inevidable? Your
experience
| and rear camber settings would be helpful.
|
| Jim - I
believe you said you had substantial
| wear but you changed tires very often
to deal
| with it? (I won't have that luxury with high dollar
|
street tires)
|
| Those that have performed the neccessary changes -
|
how close to stock specs were you able to get
| and how much did you drop
your car?
|
| I have a first gen if that matters. I'm not
| going
to the track (yet) but most people
| think I believe I'm on one already
....:)
| [read: fairly agressive setup but not full race]
| Probably
3-7 on the Teins based on other owner's
| reports/feedback
....
|
|
| Thanks in advance for answering so many questions,
| feel
free to answer any / parts if you can.
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 14 Feb 2002 20:28:02
-0500
From: "Eric" <
griz600cc@home.com>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: Suspension - Struts - Prices
I take it ECS is for the
electronically controlled struts? Non-ECS is for
the n/a and non-awd
cars?
- ----- Original Message -----
From: "Hans Ertl" <
hans.ertl@verizon.net>
To: "Eric"
<
griz600cc@home.com>
Sent:
Thursday, February 14, 2002 5:57 PM
Subject: RE: Team3S: Suspension - Struts
- Prices
> Eric, check out my website. I have by far cheaper pricing
:) I sell
> mitsubishi parts as well as aftermarket
shocks/struts.
>
> Hans
>
www.groundzeroperformance.com>
>
-----Original Message-----
> From:
owner-team3s@team3s.com
[mailto:owner-team3s@team3s.com]On Behalf
> Of Eric
> Sent:
Thursday, February 14, 2002 5:52 PM
> To: Team 3S
> Subject: Team3S:
Suspension - Struts - Prices
>
> Can anyone please explain this for
me? (I apologize for the length)
> I called for prices at three places for
front and rear struts for a 93
> Stealth ES, this is what I was given for
prices:
>
> Dodge Dealership: (who also recommened me to a
aftermarket place - go
> figure??)
> Front: $420/pair
> Rear:
$500/pair
> Total: $920
>
> Mistu Dealership:
> Front:
$345/pair
> Rear: $185/pair
> Total: $530
>
>
Aftermarket Place: (I have no interest in this place)
> Front:
$245/pair
> Rear: $160/pair
> Total: $405
>
> Why would
there be a $400 differential between Dodge and Mitsu for the
same
>
part?
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 14 Feb 2002 20:41:35
-0500
From: "Philip V. Glazatov" <
gphilip@umich.edu>
Subject: RE:
Team3S: gforce ecu upgrade only
I second the part about the nitty gritty.
I would just buy a Apexi SAFC for
$300. You can always tune it to work at
least as good as any reprogrammed
ECU. BTW, isn't G-Force out of
business?
Philip
At 04:43 PM 2/14/2002, Furman, Russell
wrote:
>They will do a custom ECU, its actually about 900 for a true
"custom" set up
>and you need to give them pertinent information,
i.e. % of how much larger
>your injectors are vs stock, any
timing map changes you would like done
>etc..... They do not get
into the real nitty gritty required for tuning.
>This was as of like 2-3
years ago things may have changed since then but
>they may have
not.
>
> > -----Original Message-----
> > From: Bill vp
[SMTP:billvp@highstream.net]
> > Sent: Thursday, February 14, 2002 4:34
PM
> > To: team3/S
> >
Subject: RE: Team3S: gforce ecu upgrade
only
> >
> > I should have been more specific. I
currently have 15G turbos (on stock
> > boost), a full exhaust, intake,
bov, boost controller, etc. and am going
> > to
> > install
550cc injectors and a Walbro 255 fuel pump. For these mods, what
>
> is
> > holding me back from just getting the GForce ecu instead of
either the
> > vpc/safc or the arc2? The gforce ecu will have new
fuel maps for the 550
> > injectors and the 15G turbos, correct?
I understand that it is a static
> > upgrade, and if later on I decide
to upgrade turbos or injectors FURTHER,
> > that I would need to
purchase an additional upgraded ecu.
> >
> > My understanding
of the gforce was that you (I) tell them your mods and
> > they
>
> will make a custom ecu for you, for around $800. Then you can have
the
> > daily driveability of a stock car.
> >
> > Is
this incorrect information?
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 14 Feb 2002 17:53:59
-0800
From: Damon Rachell <
damonr@mefas.com>
Subject: Re: Team3S:
gforce ecu upgrade only
Why not just get the AEM stand alone? For
$1340 it does it ALL. Fuel
curves, boost, timing, OBDII
diagnostics! Sounds like a much better
deal than the G-Force to
me.
Philip V. Glazatov wrote:
> I second the part about the
nitty gritty. I would just buy a Apexi SAFC
> for $300. You can always
tune it to work at least as good as any
> reprogrammed ECU. BTW, isn't
G-Force out of business?
>
> Philip
>
> At 04:43 PM
2/14/2002, Furman, Russell wrote:
>
>> They will do a custom
ECU, its actually about 900 for a true "custom"
>> set up
>>
and you need to give them pertinent information, i.e. % of how much
>> larger
>> your injectors are vs stock, any timing map
changes you would like done
>> etc..... They do not get into the
real nitty gritty required for tuning.
>> This was as of like 2-3 years
ago things may have changed since then but
>> they may have
not.
>>
>> > -----Original Message-----
>> >
From: Bill vp [SMTP:billvp@highstream.net]
>> > Sent: Thursday,
February 14, 2002 4:34 PM
>> > To: team3/S
>>
> Subject: RE: Team3S: gforce ecu upgrade
only
>> >
>> > I should have been more specific. I
currently have 15G turbos (on
>> stock
>> > boost), a full
exhaust, intake, bov, boost controller, etc. and am
>>
going
>> > to
>> > install 550cc injectors and a Walbro
255 fuel pump. For these mods,
>> what
>> >
is
>> > holding me back from just getting the GForce ecu instead of
either the
>> > vpc/safc or the arc2? The gforce ecu will have
new fuel maps for
>> the 550
>> > injectors and the 15G
turbos, correct? I understand that it is a
>> static
>>
> upgrade, and if later on I decide to upgrade turbos or injectors
>> FURTHER,
>> > that I would need to purchase an
additional upgraded ecu.
>> >
>> > My understanding of
the gforce was that you (I) tell them your mods and
>> >
they
>> > will make a custom ecu for you, for around $800.
Then you can have the
>> > daily driveability of a stock
car.
>> >
>> > Is this incorrect
information?
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 14 Feb 2002 22:32:10
-0500
From: "Philip V. Glazatov" <
gphilip@umich.edu>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: gforce ecu upgrade only
That what I am going to get if it indeed
works when AEM finally start
selling them.
Philip
At 08:53 PM
2/14/2002, Damon Rachell wrote:
>Why not just get the AEM stand
alone? For $1340 it does it ALL. Fuel
>curves, boost, timing,
OBDII diagnostics! Sounds like a much better deal
>than the G-Force
to me.
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 14 Feb 2002 21:53:08
-0600
From: "Todd D.Shelton" <
tds@brightok.net>
Subject: Re: Team3S:
Rear Camber - lowering with Teins, GC etc
- -----Original
Message-----
From: fastmax <
fastmax@cox.net>
To: Todd D.Shelton
<
tds@brightok.net>;
Team3S@stealth-3000gt.st<
Team3S@stealth-3000gt.st>
Date:
Thursday, February 14, 2002 6:54 PM
Subject: Re: Team3S: Rear Camber -
lowering with Teins, GC etc
>Welcome to the money pit of car handling
--- as you mentioned
>I run quite a bit of negative camber [ -1½º ].
Handling is great but
>so is the wear, luckily my racing wears the outside
edge and the
>excess camber wears the inside edge.
>
>Your
options are:
>
>Go racing [ my personal favorite
]
>
>don't lower the car as much [ this is for wusses
]
>
>Set it the best you can and live with it [ my tires are about
$170 each ]
>
>Elongate the adjustment holes in the rear --- it's
not brain surgery but
>not for the faint of heart either. The trick is to
find a shop who is
>willing to take a chance on modifying the cars
suspension.
>
>Look in the 3SI.com archives --- somebody is making
an adjustable
>rear control arm. It's on my list also but he beat me to
it. I'm not
>sure as to progress or
cost.
>
> Jim
Berry
>=============================================
So it looks
like unless/until Paul is able
to build the new rear control arm
then
we're pretty much SOL unless we can
find a shop that can
cut/hack/drill a solution?
I'll try and contact Paul and see if that is
going
to come about before resorting to the other.
Until then I may
have to keep on driving fast so
the outer wear matches the inner ....
that should
work out for a while but hopefully the upper control
arm will
be the end all.
Drive fast and rotate often - maybe that will
buy some
time until the control arms are ready?
(fingers crossed)
I just hope
the rear is not much worse than now since
I'm planning on going lower
still. The Eibachs are
barely noticable as far as drop ....
- -
tds
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 14 Feb 2002 23:22:12
-0500
From: "Jerry B." <
scorpman@optonline.net>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Rear Camber - lowering with Teins, GC etc
My Suggestion on
the matter,, Get a job at a tire shop like i have, ( Senior
Tech) that way
you get the nice warrenty,,, 25 % off on all tires and 10%
over shop cost for
parts,, you can do yoru own alignments when you neeed to
and plenty of
information you can handle..
BTW. anybody here looking for a set
of BRIDGESTONE POTENZA RE950's.
245/50/16?
They will fit on the stock rim
and will not rub.. They only ahve about 400
miles on them and no uneven tread
wear. List price for these tires are
169.00 a piece i believe but I am
selling mine for $120.00 a piece. These
tires are the best tire I have put on
my Stealth so far.. Now I know there
are better ones out but for the cost you
cannot beat these tires.
Now you may ask if these tires are so good why
am I selling them??? Well I
am putting my stock ones my car and garaging it
for modifications and future
plans. I do not want the tires to sit like they
are going 2. So I am
offering somebody the chance to purchase them,, after
the car back on the
road i will buy another set. Any takers interested please
e-mail me
privately so that this orignal Post does not go off track..
thanks
Jerry B. 92 Stealth ES & 93 Stealth RT/TT
- -----
Original Message -----
From: "Todd D.Shelton" <
tds@brightok.net>
To: <
Team3S@stealth-3000gt.st>
Sent:
Thursday, February 14, 2002 10:53 PM
Subject: Re: Team3S: Rear Camber -
lowering with Teins, GC etc
> -----Original Message-----
> From:
fastmax <
fastmax@cox.net>
> To:
Todd D.Shelton <
tds@brightok.net>;
Team3S@stealth-3000gt.st>
<
Team3S@stealth-3000gt.st>
>
Date: Thursday, February 14, 2002 6:54 PM
> Subject: Re: Team3S: Rear
Camber - lowering with Teins, GC etc
>
> >Welcome to the money
pit of car handling --- as you mentioned
> >I run quite a bit of
negative camber [ -1½º ]. Handling is great but
> >so is the wear,
luckily my racing wears the outside edge and the
> >excess camber wears
the inside edge.
> >
> >Your options are:
> >
>
>Go racing [ my personal favorite ]
> >
> >don't
lower the car as much [ this is for wusses ]
> >
> >Set it the
best you can and live with it [ my tires are about $170 each ]
>
>
> >Elongate the adjustment holes in the rear --- it's not brain
surgery but
> >not for the faint of heart either. The trick is to find
a shop who is
> >willing to take a chance on modifying the cars
suspension.
> >
> >Look in the 3SI.com archives --- somebody
is making an adjustable
> >rear control arm. It's on my list also but
he beat me to it. I'm not
> >sure as to progress or cost.
>
>
> > Jim Berry
>
>=============================================
>
> So it looks
like unless/until Paul is able
> to build the new rear control arm
then
> we're pretty much SOL unless we can
> find a shop that can
cut/hack/drill a solution?
>
> I'll try and contact Paul and see if
that is going
> to come about before resorting to the
other.
>
> Until then I may have to keep on driving fast so
>
the outer wear matches the inner .... that should
> work out for a
while but hopefully the upper control
> arm will be the end
all.
>
> Drive fast and rotate often - maybe that will
> buy
some time until the control arms are ready?
> (fingers
crossed)
>
> I just hope the rear is not much worse than now
since
> I'm planning on going lower still. The Eibachs are
>
barely noticable as far as drop ....
>
> - tds
***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 15 Feb 2002 06:44:29
-0500
From: "Eric" <
griz600cc@home.com>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: Rear Camber - lowering with Teins, GC etc
Working at a tire shop
or having family that does helps. My cousin works for
a tire place also. How
much for the set of 4?
- ----- Original Message -----
From: "Jerry B."
<
scorpman@optonline.net>
To:
<
Team3S@stealth-3000gt.st>
Sent:
Thursday, February 14, 2002 11:22 PM
Subject: Re: Team3S: Rear Camber -
lowering with Teins, GC etc
> My Suggestion on the matter,, Get a job
at a tire shop like i have, (
Senior
> Tech) that way you get the nice
warrenty,,, 25 % off on all tires and 10%
> over shop cost for parts,, you
can do yoru own alignments when you neeed
to
> and plenty of
information you can handle..
>
> BTW. anybody here
looking for a set of BRIDGESTONE POTENZA RE950's.
> 245/50/16?
>
They will fit on the stock rim and will not rub.. They only ahve about
400
> miles on them and no uneven tread wear. List price for these tires
are
> 169.00 a piece i believe but I am selling mine for $120.00 a piece.
These
> tires are the best tire I have put on my Stealth so far.. Now I
know there
> are better ones out but for the cost you cannot beat these
tires.
>
> Now you may ask if these tires are so good why am I
selling them??? Well I
> am putting my stock ones my car and garaging it
for modifications and
future
> plans. I do not want the tires to sit
like they are going 2. So I am
> offering somebody the chance to purchase
them,, after the car back on the
> road i will buy another set. Any takers
interested please e-mail me
> privately so that this orignal Post does not
go off track.. thanks
>
> Jerry B. 92 Stealth ES & 93
Stealth RT/TT
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Todd
D.Shelton" <
tds@brightok.net>
> To: <
Team3S@stealth-3000gt.st>
>
Sent: Thursday, February 14, 2002 10:53 PM
> Subject: Re: Team3S: Rear
Camber - lowering with Teins, GC etc
>
>
> > -----Original
Message-----
> > From: fastmax <
fastmax@cox.net>
> > To: Todd
D.Shelton <
tds@brightok.net>;
Team3S@stealth-3000gt.st> >
<
Team3S@stealth-3000gt.st>
>
> Date: Thursday, February 14, 2002 6:54 PM
> > Subject: Re: Team3S:
Rear Camber - lowering with Teins, GC etc
> >
> >
> >
>Welcome to the money pit of car handling --- as you mentioned
> >
>I run quite a bit of negative camber [ -1½º ]. Handling is great but
>
> >so is the wear, luckily my racing wears the outside edge and
the
> > >excess camber wears the inside edge.
> >
>
> > >Your options are:
> > >
> > >Go
racing [ my personal favorite ]
> > >
> > >don't
lower the car as much [ this is for wusses ]
> > >
> >
>Set it the best you can and live with it [ my tires are about $170
each
]
> > >
> > >Elongate the adjustment holes in the rear
--- it's not brain surgery
but
> > >not for the faint of heart
either. The trick is to find a shop who is
> > >willing to take a
chance on modifying the cars suspension.
> > >
> > >Look
in the 3SI.com archives --- somebody is making an adjustable
> >
>rear control arm. It's on my list also but he beat me to it. I'm not
>
> >sure as to progress or cost.
> > >
> >
> Jim Berry
> >
>=============================================
> >
> > So
it looks like unless/until Paul is able
> > to build the new rear
control arm then
> > we're pretty much SOL unless we can
> >
find a shop that can cut/hack/drill a solution?
> >
> > I'll
try and contact Paul and see if that is going
> > to come about before
resorting to the other.
> >
> > Until then I may have to keep
on driving fast so
> > the outer wear matches the inner .... that
should
> > work out for a while but hopefully the upper control
>
> arm will be the end all.
> >
> > Drive fast and rotate
often - maybe that will
> > buy some time until the control arms are
ready?
> > (fingers crossed)
> >
> > I just hope the
rear is not much worse than now since
> > I'm planning on going lower
still. The Eibachs are
> > barely noticable as far as drop
....
> >
> > - tds
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 15 Feb 2002 08:46:04
-0600
From: "cody" <
overclck@satx.rr.com>
Subject: RE:
Team3S: Rear Camber - lowering with Teins, GC etc
Todd, if you have some
tools, it is fairly easy to do the elongation of
the bolt holes. A
friend and myself did this on my non-turbo, but it is
the same procedure for
the VR4... I can send you instructions if you'd
like...
-
-Cody
- -----Original Message-----
From:
owner-team3s@team3s.com
[mailto:owner-team3s@team3s.com] On Behalf
Of Todd D.Shelton
Sent:
Thursday, February 14, 2002 9:53 PM
To:
Team3S@stealth-3000gt.stSubject:
Re: Team3S: Rear Camber - lowering with Teins, GC etc
- -----Original
Message-----
From: fastmax <
fastmax@cox.net>
To: Todd D.Shelton
<
tds@brightok.net>;
Team3S@stealth-3000gt.st<
Team3S@stealth-3000gt.st>
Date:
Thursday, February 14, 2002 6:54 PM
Subject: Re: Team3S: Rear Camber -
lowering with Teins, GC etc
>Welcome to the money pit of car handling
--- as you mentioned
>I run quite a bit of negative camber [ -1½º ].
Handling is great but
>so is the wear, luckily my racing wears the outside
edge and the
>excess camber wears the inside edge.
>
>Your
options are:
>
>Go racing [ my personal favorite
]
>
>don't lower the car as much [ this is for wusses
]
>
>Set it the best you can and live with it [ my tires are about
$170 each
]
>
>Elongate the adjustment holes in the rear --- it's
not brain surgery
but
>not for the faint of heart either. The trick is
to find a shop who is
>willing to take a chance on modifying the cars
suspension.
>
>Look in the 3SI.com archives --- somebody is making
an adjustable
>rear control arm. It's on my list also but he beat me to
it. I'm not
>sure as to progress or
cost.
>
> Jim
Berry
>=============================================
So it looks
like unless/until Paul is able
to build the new rear control arm
then
we're pretty much SOL unless we can
find a shop that can
cut/hack/drill a solution?
I'll try and contact Paul and see if that is
going
to come about before resorting to the other.
Until then I may
have to keep on driving fast so
the outer wear matches the inner ....
that should
work out for a while but hopefully the upper control
arm will
be the end all.
Drive fast and rotate often - maybe that will
buy some
time until the control arms are ready?
(fingers crossed)
I just hope
the rear is not much worse than now since
I'm planning on going lower
still. The Eibachs are
barely noticable as far as drop ....
- -
tds
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 15 Feb 2002 08:59:46
-0600
From: "Jannusch, Matt" <
mjannusch@marketwatch.com>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: gforce ecu upgrade only
> Why not just get the AEM stand
alone? For $1340 it does it
> ALL. Fuel
> curves,
boost, timing, OBDII diagnostics! Sounds like a much better
> deal
than the G-Force to me.
That thing has been "coming soon" for a while
now. Tough to choose it until
it is reality.
- -Matt
'95
3000GT Spyder VR4
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 15 Feb 2002 09:24:29
-0600
From: "Black, Dave (ICT)" <
dblai@allstate.com>
Subject: Team3S:
Average powertrain loss in non-AWD cars
After heading to the Chicago Auto
show yesterday (will be posting pics soon
for anyone interested), I was
wondering how much HP is lost in a non-AWD
with all of the "beefy" HP
listings for some of the cars that are out there.
If our AWD cars have
anywhere between 18-22% as most believe, what do we
need to keep up to other
cars on the road. If a car is listed at 400hp,
what is it putting down
to the road? I'm not looking for an exact number
just an educated
guess.
Thanks.
Dave 95VR4
http://www.daveblack.net***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 15 Feb 2002 08:32:45
-0700
From: Wayne <
whietala@prodigy.net>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: Average powertrain loss in non-AWD cars
My extensive dyno
experience has taught me this......
NON AWD cars
Manual tranny = 15%
loss
Auto tranny = 25% loss
I'm guessing that an AWD is about the same
as a 2WD automatic.
Wayne
At 09:24 AM 2/15/02 -0600, Black, Dave
(ICT) wrote:
>I was wondering how much HP is lost in a non-AWD
>with
all of the "beefy" HP listings for some of the cars that are out
there.
>If our AWD cars have anywhere between 18-22% as most believe, what
do we
>need to keep up to other cars on the road. If a car is listed
at 400hp,
>what is it putting down to the road? I'm not looking for
an exact number
>just an educated
guess.
>
>Thanks.
>
>Dave 95VR4
***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 15 Feb 2002 07:55:31
-0700
From: "Mike & Cathy" <
micajoco@theofficenet.com>
Subject:
Team3S: struts
Eric- check with Sunrise Mitsubishi 1-800-244-0047 on
struts. I picked up
front ones for my 92 r/t for $145 each. Also timing belt
$108 when Dodge
dealer wanted $210.
Mike S r/t tt Wash St
***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
End of Team3S: 3000GT &
Stealth V1
#754
***************************************