Team3S: 3000GT & Stealth Wednesday, February 13 2002 Volume 01 :
Number
752
----------------------------------------------------------------------
Date:
Tue, 12 Feb 2002 22:56:40 +1300
From: "Steve Cooper" <
scooper@paradise.net.nz>
Subject:
Team3S: Lowering springs with struts & knocklink
I have at home
a set of RSR springs on non ECS struts. They arrived in this
country (New
Zealand) on a car imported from Japan.The caryard couldn't sell
the car
because it was too low and the ride was too hard. Yes ideal for
racing.They
got swapped for "normal" ones.
I dont know if the car was turbo or non turbo,
don't even know the year.I do
have part numbers on the
struts.
Front
MB633380
QJ29
KYB
Rear MB631739
QJ27 KYB
Can sombody look up these numbers?
What would they be
worth in USA.?
Knocklink
Sorry about the delay.Just been tooooooo
busy at work. My buy price is $110
NZ. That's less than $50 US, freight
extra. No idea about freight charges,
wouldn't be much
though.
Steve
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 12 Feb 2002 07:58:14
-0500
From: "Payne, Scott" <
spayne@hunton.com>
Subject: RE:
Team3S: Suspension light blinking on 94 3000gt
Mine does the almost the
same thing. On really cold days I usually get no
light at all. On warm days
it seems to work fine. 94 R/T
- -----Original Message-----
From: Gabe
Simoes [mailto:stealthdevil@netzero.net]
Sent: Monday, February 11, 2002 7:00
PM
To: RJM;
Team3S@stealth-3000gt.stSubject:
RE: Team3S: Suspension light blinking on 94 3000gt
Mine does the same
thing, except all the time. Seems to be stuck in
sport
mode. I took it to the dealer and they said they would have
to plug in a
code or something. Said it would cost about $70.
-
-----Original Message-----
From:
owner-team3s@team3s.com
[mailto:owner-team3s@team3s.com]On Behalf
Of RJM
Sent: Monday, February
11, 2002 4:51 PM
To:
Team3S@stealth-3000gt.stSubject:
Team3S: Suspension light blinking on 94 3000gt
My ECS/suspension doesn't
seem to be working. It blinks
"touring-sport" constantly.
It seems to do it on the colder days
if that makes any sense. I
am assuming it isn't working: the
connectors are plugged in all the way
above each front strut
so would it blink if a strut or shock went out or
anything else
that was broken in the suspension. Thanks ahead of
time.
Bob
1994 3000gt SL
100,000 miles
***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 12 Feb 2002 08:43:46
-0500
From: "Furman, Russell" <
RFurman2@MassMutual.com>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: Tein Coilovers WAS: Sway bar installation
Hey Erik/list
last time Dusty @ MVP Motorsports checked into it, HKS did not
have a Hiper
Damper kit for our cars. If you guys have a part number drop
some knowledge
on me, my net connection at work is temporarily down :(
>
-----Original Message-----
> From: Gross, Erik
[SMTP:erik.gross@intel.com]
> Sent: Monday, February 11, 2002 9:12
PM
> To:
Team3S@stealth-3000gt.st>
Subject: Team3S: Tein Coilovers WAS: Sway bar installation
>
> So has anyone looked at the HKS HiperDamper coilovers? I'm not
going to
> replace my suspension until the stock components wear out, but
looking
> down
> the road... US parts availability (for
rebuilds) seems to be a major
> selling point for the HKS, unless Tein has
changed something recently.
>
> --Erik
>
> > BTW -
this vendor and nearly all of our (3S specific)
> > vendors need to
make a major adjustment on their
> > Tein prices. They now list
for $1490 MSRP with
> > PillowBall mounts according to
Tein.com
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 12 Feb 2002 08:34:02
-0600
From: "Willis, Charles E." <
cewillis@TexasChildrensHospital.org>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: Suspension light blinking on 94 3000gt
When the ECS fails to
get through its self-test, it remains in SPORT-HARD
mode and the light
blinks. Your message didn't say anything about
inspecting the REAR two
shocks and their wiring harness connections.
If the dash light is
flashing, then a fault code is being sent telling you
which strut has the
problem. 9 times out of 10 it is a poor connection, but
can be a
rotated shaft on the shock itself and can be a wiring harness
spooled around
the top of the strut. "It looks okay" is bogus.
Check it yourself -
These are instuctions I gave someone else with
voltmeter:
1. Find the datalink connector under the dash in the
driver's side.
A. 1ST GENERATION - connect + to pin 3, - to pin
12. Pin 3 is the
third down on the left side, before the double space.
Pin 12 is the lower
right corner.
B. 2ND GENERATION - connect + to
pin 3, - to pin 4 or 5. Pin 3 is
the third from the top left side of
the connector ( on the log side of the
trapezoid), pin 4 and 5 are next to
the right.
2. Turn the ignition on.
3. Look at the
voltmeter. The code is repeated many times. Seven (7)
short
deflections is code =0, and means everything is wonderful.
4. Other
codes are: 1 long, 1 short = 11, G sensor bad.
2 long, 1 short=21,
steering angular velocity sensor open
2 long, 4 short=24, speed sensor
open
These codes don't disappear until ingnition switch is off, even if
you fix
the problem.
5. These codes disappear when you correct
the problem:
6 long, 1 short=61, Front Right shock
6 long, 2 short=62,
Front left shock
6 long, 3 short=63, Rear right shock
6 long, 4 short=64,
Rear Left shock
MFI trouble codes are read in a similar manner, but
different pins.
FIRST GENERATION - connect + to pin 1, - to pin
12.
SECOND GENERATION - Connect pin 1 to GROUND and watch the CHECK ENGINE
light
flashes for same sort of patterns - long flashes (1.5 sec) are tens
digit,
short (0.5 sec) flashes are ones digit. That gets you the same
codes you
would read on the Scan Tool.
You clear codes by
disconnecting the battery for 10 seconds, reconnecting
and idling the car for
15 min to make sure the codes don't return.
Chuck Willis
***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 12 Feb 2002 09:17:24
-0600
From: "Vineet Singh \(3S\)" <
stealthtt@ecanfix.com>
Subject:
Team3S: Step height is for 92 RT/TT flywheel?
My car is getting a new
clutch! The owner doesn't know what the Step
height is for 92 RT/TT flywheel.
Anyone know this? He's going to be
running a mcleod clutch if that
matters.
Please email me directly, as I only get the delayed digest
version of
this list, and the resurfacing is being done today. Thanks!
stealthtt@ecanfix.com is the email
address.
Vinny Singh -
http://www.manualcd.com/ - Service Manuals
on CD for your DSM or 3/S!
http://kaizen.eaglecars.com/***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 12 Feb 2002 11:52:39
-0500
From: "Darren Schilberg" <
dschilberg@pobox.com>
Subject: RE:
Team3S: RE: Tein
I'm not going to second-guess his business decision but
I don't think
anyone one Earth would keep the stock (read: squishy,
soft,
under-powered) stock springs when doing something as nice as a
Tein,
Tokico, Ground Control, HKS suspension upgrade. That would
be
ludicrous. It is a package deal and with nice stiff shocks they
might
not ever get used since the springs would be so squishy. But
most
people I have seen with the Tein HA or Ground Control coilover
and
springs were doing road track events or AutoX and needed the
stiffer
springs already.
And yes it might not be difficult but trying
to salvage suspension parts
that are 4-8 years old and well-rusted is not
easy sometimes. My friend
had a 1991 Honda Prelude Si and put on the
Ground Control coilovers. My
favorite Meineke shop did a great job but
asked if he needed to save the
urethane bushing on top (like where the pillow
mount is on the new
stuff) or things like that. He didn't and good
thing because 3 of the 4
corners came out nicely and the last one needed cut
in order to get
loose. So it will not always disassemble easily but
thanks for saying
install is not rocket science.
- --Flash!
-
-----Original Message-----
From:
tds@brightok.netSent: Monday, February
11, 2002 19:00
No - that was from a shop up in the NE
US.
That was not installed - that was mailorder.
Install is not
very difficult since you
entirely remove the stock setup and springs
and
replace everything. You don't even
need a spring compressor unless you
want
to remove the stock springs.
If you look in the list archives -
you will see that
he advertised them right here months and
months
ago! Looks like he still has them!
Then about 10 days ago he tried
the same
on 3SI.org and after getting the business
from owners that know
better he ended
up dropping the price but still not even
MSRP.
I
think he got stuck with this setup and
paid more for it months
ago?
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 12 Feb 2002 09:09:10
-0800
From: "Gross, Erik" <
erik.gross@intel.com>
Subject: RE:
Team3S: Tein
> I don't think anyone one Earth would keep the
stock
> stock springs when doing something as nice as a Tein
I
don't think that is even possible because the Tein springs are
much smaller
in diameter than the stock front springs. I imagine the rears
are as
well, but I haven't directly compared the rears. The Teins come as
a
matched set, and it'd be significantly more work to use the stock springs
if
they fit (which they don't).
As they come, you can assemble the
Tein spring/strut/shock
assemblies, take the stock ones off, and install the
Teins on the car. You
don't even have to remove the stock springs from
the strut assemblies (thus
no spring compressor).
> And yes it
might not be difficult but trying to salvage
> suspension parts that are
4-8 years old and well-rusted
> is not easy sometimes.
What are
you referring to?
- --Erik
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 12 Feb 2002 11:57:28
US/Central
From:
tds@brightok.netSubject: RE: Team3S: RE:
Tein
> I'm not going to second-guess his business decision but I don't
think
> anyone one Earth would keep the stock (read: squishy,
soft,
> under-powered) stock springs when doing something as nice as a
Tein,
> Tokico, Ground Control, HKS suspension upgrade. That would
be
> ludicrous. It is a package deal and with nice stiff shocks they
might
> not ever get used since the springs would be so squishy. But
most
> people I have seen with the Tein HA or Ground Control coilover
and
> springs were doing road track events or AutoX and needed the
stiffer
> springs already.
-
--------------------------------------------------------------
My point
is - you don't have to use a spring compressor
when switching to Tein because
the old springs and struts/
shocks are no longer needed.
In my case -
I DO want the current springs since
they are aftermarket Eibachs. I
doubt I will
keep the stock struts/shocks though. If my
springs were
stock, I wouldn't even go to
the trouble of disassembling them.
Unless
they had very low miles on them, I don't know
why anyone else would
either.
I wouldn't expect the swap to take more than
2 hours which
shouldn't cost hundreds of dollars
unless you are being overcharged.
-
- tds
http://www.brightok.net/~tds-
---------------------------------------------
This message was sent using
BrightNet MailMan.
http://www.Brightok.net/mailman/***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 12 Feb 2002 13:21:51
-0500
From: "Darren Schilberg" <
dschilberg@pobox.com>
Subject: RE:
Team3S: Tein
Erik,
Was referring to the fact that IF you wanted to
keep the stock springs
in there. Didn't know there was that much
difference in them. Like I
said ... most friends don't have that cash
to throw around or don't have
the dreaded 95+ VR-4 to work with in the first
place. My friend with
the Ground Control coilovers was able to salvage
some parts of his
suspension (maybe the top point where it ties in or the
hardware at the
top of the shock tower). Not sure. But his was
different since it was
not Tein. Just trying to offer help.
-
--Flash!
- -----Original Message-----
From: Gross, Erik
[mailto:erik.gross@intel.com]
Sent: Tuesday, February 12, 2002 12:09
To:
'dschilberg@pobox.com'; Team3S List
(E-mail)
Subject: RE: Team3S: Tein
I don't think that is even possible
because the Tein springs are
much smaller in diameter than the stock front
springs. I imagine the
rears
are as well, but I haven't directly
compared the rears. The Teins come
as a
matched set, and it'd be
significantly more work to use the stock
springs if
they fit (which they
don't).
As they come, you can assemble the Tein
spring/strut/shock
assemblies, take the stock ones off, and install the Teins
on the car.
You
don't even have to remove the stock springs from the strut
assemblies
(thus
no spring compressor).
> And yes it might not
be difficult but trying to salvage
> suspension parts that are 4-8 years
old and well-rusted
> is not easy sometimes.
What are you
referring to?
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 12 Feb 2002 13:25:06
-0500
From: "Darren Schilberg" <
dschilberg@pobox.com>
Subject: RE:
Team3S: RE: Tein
TDS,
I see. Thanks for
clarifying that you have aftermarket Eibach
springs. I either missed
that or it was not noted until now. And yes
it should not take more
than 2 hours but is ANYTHING simple on the VR-4
or R/T TT cars with all the
junk stashed up under it? Remember that the
rear suspension is tied in
to all the rear steering components on a
VR-4. I bet that isn't just a
single bolt that holds it all together.
They better know about all that so
they don't give you your keys back
and then a box of spare nuts and bolts and
hangers.
- --Flash!
1995 VR-4
- -----Original
Message-----
From:
tds@brightok.netSent: Tuesday, February
12, 2002 06:57
My point is - you don't have to use a spring
compressor
when switching to Tein because the old springs and
struts/
shocks are no longer needed.
In my case - I DO want the
current springs since
they are aftermarket Eibachs. I doubt I
will
keep the stock struts/shocks though. If my
springs were stock,
I wouldn't even go to
the trouble of disassembling them.
Unless
they had very low miles on them, I don't know
why anyone else would
either.
I wouldn't expect the swap to take more than
2 hours which
shouldn't cost hundreds of dollars
unless you are being
overcharged.
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 12 Feb 2002 12:34:16
-0600
From: "Todd D.Shelton" <
tds@brightok.net>
Subject: Re: Team3S:
Tein
- -----Original Message-----
From: Darren Schilberg <
dschilberg@pobox.com>
To: 'Team3S
List (E-mail)' <
team3S@stealth-3000gt.st>
Date:
Tuesday, February 12, 2002 12:24 PM
Subject: RE: Team3S:
Tein
>Erik,
>
>Was referring to the fact that IF you
wanted to keep the stock springs
>in there. Didn't know there was
that much difference in them. Like I
>said ... most friends don't
have that cash to throw around or don't have
>the dreaded 95+ VR-4 to work
with in the first place. My friend with
>the Ground Control
coilovers was able to salvage some parts of his
>suspension (maybe the top
point where it ties in or the hardware at the
>top of the shock
tower). Not sure. But his was different since it was
>not
Tein. Just trying to offer help.
>
-
----------------------------------------------------------------
Ground
Control only provides the new springs
and perch to mount them. You
still have to use
either your stock struts/shocks or buy
aftermarket
struts/shocks like KYB.
The Tein setup comes with
*everything* including
springs, helper springs and 16 way adjustable
struts/shocks.
You can't use stock or stock sized springs
on
either of these setups - even if you wanted to.
They don't
fit.
- - tds
http://www.brightok.net/~tds***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 12 Feb 2002 13:37:11
-0500
From: "Jeff VanOrsdal" <
jeffv@1nce.com>
Subject: RE: Team3S: RE:
Tein
Actually, it is very close to being one bolt. The rear struts
disconnect
with one nut at the bottom and two nuts up top. That's it. You
honestly
don't even need to pull the wheels off to do the rear struts.
(Although the
car obviously needs to be jacked up)
Jeff
VanOrsdal
1991 Stealth ESX Twin Turbo
jeffv@1nce.com- -----Original
Message-----
From:
owner-team3s@team3s.com
[mailto:owner-team3s@team3s.com]On Behalf
Of Darren Schilberg
Sent:
Tuesday, February 12, 2002 1:25 PM
To:
Team3S@stealth-3000gt.stSubject:
RE: Team3S: RE: Tein
TDS,
I see. Thanks for
clarifying that you have aftermarket Eibach
springs. I either missed
that or it was not noted until now. And yes
it should not take more
than 2 hours but is ANYTHING simple on the VR-4
or R/T TT cars with all the
junk stashed up under it? Remember that the
rear suspension is tied in
to all the rear steering components on a
VR-4. I bet that isn't just a
single bolt that holds it all together.
They better know about all that so
they don't give you your keys back
and then a box of spare nuts and bolts and
hangers.
- --Flash!
1995 VR-4
- -----Original
Message-----
From:
tds@brightok.netSent: Tuesday, February
12, 2002 06:57
My point is - you don't have to use a spring
compressor
when switching to Tein because the old springs and
struts/
shocks are no longer needed.
In my case - I DO want the
current springs since
they are aftermarket Eibachs. I doubt I
will
keep the stock struts/shocks though. If my
springs were stock,
I wouldn't even go to
the trouble of disassembling them. Unless
they
had very low miles on them, I don't know
why anyone else would
either.
I wouldn't expect the swap to take more than
2 hours which
shouldn't cost hundreds of dollars
unless you are being
overcharged.
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 12 Feb 2002 13:07:58
-0600
From: "Willis, Charles E." <
cewillis@TexasChildrensHospital.org>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: RE: Tein
Jeff is not exaggerating - although I find it easier
to change the struts
with the wheels off. Front struts have more than 2
nuts up top. And don't
forget the ECS connectors! Also the front struts
have ABS sensors attached.
As for the buggaboo about the mysterious
spring compressor - Autozone has
one for about $25, and they'll probably loan
it to you if you put down a
deposit.
This is NOT a big
job.
Chuck Willis
> -----Original Message-----
> From:
Jeff VanOrsdal [SMTP:jeffv@1nce.com]
> Sent: Tuesday, February 12, 2002
12:37 PM
> To: Team3s Tech List;
dschilberg@pobox.com> Subject: RE:
Team3S: RE: Tein
>
> Actually, it is very close to being one
bolt. The rear struts disconnect
> with one nut at the bottom and
two nuts up top. That's it. You honestly
> don't even need to pull the
wheels off to do the rear struts. (Although
> the
> car obviously
needs to be jacked up)
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 12 Feb 2002 14:13:52
-0500
From: "Furman, Russell" <
RFurman2@MassMutual.com>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: RE: Tein
This isn't, now finding a place that can do an
alignment correctly the first
time on our cars is another story
altogether.
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Willis,
Charles E. [SMTP:cewillis@TexasChildrensHospital.org]
> Sent: Tuesday,
February 12, 2002 2:08 PM
> To:
'jeffv@1nce.com'; Team3s Tech List;
dschilberg@pobox.com> Subject: RE:
Team3S: RE: Tein
>
> Jeff is not exaggerating - although I find it
easier to change the struts
> with the wheels off. Front struts have
more than 2 nuts up top. And
> don't
> forget the ECS
connectors! Also the front struts have ABS sensors
> attached.
>
> As for the buggaboo about the mysterious spring compressor - Autozone
has
> one for about $25, and they'll probably loan it to you if you put
down a
> deposit.
>
> This is NOT a big job.
>
>
Chuck Willis
>
> > -----Original Message-----
> > From:
Jeff VanOrsdal [SMTP:jeffv@1nce.com]
> > Sent: Tuesday, February 12,
2002 12:37 PM
> > To: Team3s Tech List;
dschilberg@pobox.com> >
Subject: RE: Team3S: RE: Tein
> >
> > Actually, it is very
close to being one bolt. The rear struts
> disconnect
> >
with one nut at the bottom and two nuts up top. That's it. You honestly
>
> don't even need to pull the wheels off to do the rear struts.
(Although
> > the
> > car obviously needs to be jacked
up)
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 12 Feb 2002 12:14:46
-0800
From: Damon Rachell <
damonr@mefas.com>
Subject: Team3S:
Wheel stud dimensions...
Does anyone know the wheel stud dimensions on a
92 R/T Turbo? I'm
looking to get some spacers and need longer studs to
accomodate the
extra 5mm. Also, any good places to buy them?
Nascarplace.com is out
of bizz, it looks like.
Breathe, my friend,
breathe!!!
Damon
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 12 Feb 2002 12:32:18
-0800 (PST)
From: glenn amy <
glenn_amy@yahoo.com>
Subject:
Team3S: RE: Trouble Codes was: Suspension light blinking
you
mention 'deflections' on the voltmeter. Can I
assume that an analog
voltmeter is required and my
digital unit wouldn't work?
Glenn
93
VR-4
$40 Sears Digital Voltmeter
- --- "Willis, Charles E."
<
cewillis@TexasChildrensHospital.org>
wrote:
> When the ECS fails to get through its self-test, it
>
remains in SPORT-HARD
> mode and the light blinks. Your message
didn't say
> anything about
> inspecting the REAR two shocks and
their wiring
> harness connections.
>
> If the dash light is
flashing, then a fault code is
> being sent telling you
> which
strut has the problem. 9 times out of 10 it
> is a poor connection,
but
> can be a rotated shaft on the shock itself and can
> be a
wiring harness
> spooled around the top of the strut. "It
looks
> okay" is bogus.
>
> Check it yourself -
>
> These are instuctions I gave someone else with
>
voltmeter:
>
> 1. Find the datalink connector under the dash
in
> the driver's side.
> A. 1ST GENERATION - connect + to pin
3, - to pin
> 12. Pin 3 is the
> third down on the left side,
before the double
> space. Pin 12 is the lower
> right
corner.
> B. 2ND GENERATION - connect + to pin 3, - to pin 4
>
or 5. Pin 3 is
> the third from the top left side of the connector
(
> on the log side of the
> trapezoid), pin 4 and 5 are next to the
right.
>
> 2. Turn the ignition on.
>
> 3.
Look at the voltmeter. The code is repeated
> many times.
Seven (7)
> short deflections is code =0, and means everything
> is
wonderful.
>
> 4. Other codes are: 1 long, 1 short =
11, G sensor
> bad.
> 2 long, 1 short=21, steering angular
velocity
> sensor open
> 2 long, 4 short=24, speed sensor
open
>
> These codes don't disappear until ingnition switch
>
is off, even if you fix
> the problem.
>
> 5. These
codes disappear when you correct the
> problem:
> 6 long, 1
short=61, Front Right shock
> 6 long, 2 short=62, Front left shock
>
6 long, 3 short=63, Rear right shock
> 6 long, 4 short=64, Rear Left
shock
>
> MFI trouble codes are read in a similar manner,
but
> different pins.
>
> FIRST GENERATION - connect + to pin
1, - to pin 12.
> SECOND GENERATION - Connect pin 1 to GROUND and
>
watch the CHECK ENGINE light
> flashes for same sort of patterns - long
flashes
> (1.5 sec) are tens digit,
> short (0.5 sec) flashes are
ones digit. That gets
> you the same codes you
> would read on
the Scan Tool.
>
> You clear codes by disconnecting the battery for
10
> seconds, reconnecting
> and idling the car for 15 min to make
sure the codes
> don't return.
>
> Chuck
Willis
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 12 Feb 2002 14:45:05
-0600
From: Merritt <
merritt@cedar-rapids.net>
Subject:
Team3S: Re: 3S-Racers: Wheel stud dimensions...
At 12:14 PM 2/12/02
-0800, Damon Rachell wrote:
>Does anyone know the wheel stud dimensions on
a 92 R/T Turbo? I'm
>looking to get some spacers and need longer
studs to accomodate the
>extra 5mm. Also, any good places to buy
them? Nascarplace.com is out
>of bizz, it looks like.
>
I
got mine from carparts.com, but I can't find them on there any more.
Try
H&R Special Springs, LP Bellingham, WA 360/738-8881
In any case,
here's what you want (reading off my box):
Presision HUBCENTRIC Wheel
Spacers
TRAK+
I&R Spacer
DRS System 30 mm 114,3/5 67,
Includes
10 DRS-bolts 1254554
Part no. 030656715
Rich/slow old poop/94
VR4
*** Info:
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------------------------------
Date: Tue, 12 Feb 2002 14:50:37
-0600
From: "Willis, Charles E." <
cewillis@TexasChildrensHospital.org>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: RE: Trouble Codes was: Suspension light blinking
You
can use the digital voltmeter depending on how quick the response.
I
haven't used one for this purpose. I'm still in the analog
world.
Chuck Willis
93 VR4 94VR4
$4.95 Autozone Analog
Voltmeter
> -----Original Message-----
> From: glenn amy
[SMTP:glenn_amy@yahoo.com]
> Sent: Tuesday, February 12, 2002 2:32
PM
> To:
Team3S@stealth-3000gt.st>
Subject: Team3S: RE: Trouble Codes was: Suspension light blinking
>
> you mention 'deflections' on the voltmeter. Can I
> assume
that an analog voltmeter is required and my
> digital unit wouldn't
work?
>
>
> Glenn
> 93 VR-4
> $40 Sears Digital
Voltmeter
*** Info:
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***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 12 Feb 2002 12:58:53
-0800
From: "fastmax" <
fastmax@cox.net>
Subject: Re: Team3S:
RE: Trouble Codes was: Suspension light blinking
you'd be hard
pressed to use a digital meter --- the fluctuations
are in the range of
several per second and an digital meter has
a pretty slow
response.
Jim
Berry
====================================
- ----- Original Message -----
From: "glenn amy" <
glenn_amy@yahoo.com>
To: <
Team3S@stealth-3000gt.st>
Sent:
Tuesday, February 12, 2002 12:32 PM
Subject: Team3S: RE: Trouble Codes was:
Suspension light blinking
| you mention 'deflections' on the
voltmeter. Can I
| assume that an analog voltmeter is required and
my
| digital unit wouldn't work?
|
| Glenn
| 93 VR-4
| $40 Sears
Digital Voltmeter
*** Info:
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***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 12 Feb 2002 15:51:37
-0800 (PST)
From: John Christian <
jczoom_619@yahoo.com>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: Oil line, front Turbo
Hi all,
I agree. If it ain't
broke ---- don't fix it!
Be of good cheer,
John
- --- bdtrent
<
bdtrent@netzero.net>
wrote:
> Darren,
>
> I replaced the return line/oil pan
gasket twice,
> after installing new
> turbos, before I was
successfull in preventing a
> slight leak in this area.
>
>
Regards,
> DaveT/92TT
>
> ----- Original Message
-----
> From: "Darren Schilberg" <
dschilberg@pobox.com>
> To:
"'Team3S'" <
Team3S@stealth-3000gt.st>
>
Sent: Friday, February 08, 2002 8:41 PM
> Subject: RE: Team3S: Oil line,
front Turbo
>
>
> I just changed my oil today and noticed
the oil
> drips/stains underneath
> on the oil pan. I looked
up and think it is coming
> from the return oil
> line from the
front turbo. Is this common? Now
> that I look at it I
>
want to wrap it in insulation and heat wrap tape and
> fun things
like
> that.
>
> Also, I think the transfer case is leaking
at the
> seam but only under
> hard idling or hard track use (I had
to idle high
> for 20 minutes so
> sitting still like that it got to
drip exactly 5
> times on the ground).
> The drops are like
Budweiser and I don't know what
> RedLine synthetic
> tranny fluid
is supposed to look like after 20k
> miles. I'm not sure if
>
it was possibly some oil that I spilled from above
> that made its
way
> down to that side of the engine.
>
> ... and I thought
the top side of the engines were
> crowded but up around
> the oil
filter and stuff is just as bad.
>
> --Flash!
> 1995
VR-4
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Jannusch,
Matt
> Sent: Friday, February 08, 2002 13:43
>
> Is there
something wrong with your feed line? It is
> usually the
return
> lines that have problems (if any).
>
> Make sure you
use new copper crush washers on all
> the feed line
>
connections
> at the banjo fittings.
=====
Please respond to
jczoom@iname.com'93 TT with Porsche
brakes and Supra TT rotors
12.4@109MPH
5/97 almost stock
http://www.geocities.com/motorcity/flats/4538***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 12 Feb 2002 17:20:27
-0700
From: "Gabe Simoes" <
stealthdevil@netzero.net>
Subject:
Team3S: Montero crank swap?
Is it true that you can swap in a montero
crank into our cars and it bumps
it up displacement to 3.5L? Just heard
the idea brought up on a local
posting board and wanted some trusted
answers.
Gabe Simoes
'92 Black Stealth RTTT
- - Intake &
Exhaust @ 14psi
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 12 Feb 2002 19:26:14
-0500
From: "bdtrent" <
bdtrent@netzero.net>
Subject:
Team3S: Timing Belt Tools
Does anyone have any timing belt tools they
would like to sell? It's time I
got my fingers
dirty.
Regards,
DaveT/92TT
*** Info:
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***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 12 Feb 2002 16:32:50
-0800
From: "fastmax" <
fastmax@cox.net>
Subject: Re: Team3S:
Timing Belt Tools
Steve at 3SX has em for $20.
http://www.3sxperformance.com/tools.asp
Jim Berry
======================================
- ----- Original Message
-----
From: "bdtrent" <
bdtrent@netzero.net>
To: "Team 3S"
<
team3s@stealth-3000gt.st>
Sent:
Tuesday, February 12, 2002 4:26 PM
Subject: Team3S: Timing Belt
Tools
| Does anyone have any timing belt tools they would like to
sell? It's time I
| got my fingers dirty.
|
| Regards,
|
DaveT/92TT
*** Info:
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***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 12 Feb 2002 17:59:21
-0800 (PST)
From: menalteed <
menalteed@yahoo.com>
Subject:
Team3S: Turbo upgrades or stock replacement
Anyone have a opinion on
replacement turbo upgrades or
should I just replace the stock turbos. Also as
far as
the oil feed line, I believe to get the warranty for
the new turbos
they require a new oil line. I don't
feel that they should and it is a lot of
work if not
needed. The turbos I have cost almost as much for a
re build
as new so I'm going with new.
Peter TT STEALTH 92
***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 12 Feb 2002 20:05:13
-0600
From: "Mark Wendlandt" <
stealth_tt@hotmail.com>
Subject:
Team3S: Machining a pressure plate
I know that I have seen some that have
had pressure plates machined(Mikael).
Does anybody know where this
could be done? I called a couple of machine
shops and they don't want
to touch it. I have an ACT with only 2K on it and
I would like to just
replace the disk if possible.
Mark Wendlandt
'91RT/TT
***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 12 Feb 2002 18:17:50
-0800 (PST)
From: Jeff Lucius <
stealthman92@yahoo.com>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Montero crank swap?
Not true as far as a *direct* swap.
Looking in the Mitsu 1992-1996
Engine Overhaul Manual, I see two items that
might prevent this:
journal outer diameters and pin outer diameters are
different. But I
have never seen 6G72 and 6G74 blocks and cranks next to each
other,
so maybe it is possible to modify the 6G74 crank (or rods?) to
work.
Jeff Lucius,
http://www.stealth316.com/- ---
Gabe Simoes <
stealthdevil@netzero.net>
wrote:
> Is it true that you can swap in a montero crank into our cars
and
> it bumps
> it up displacement to 3.5L? Just heard the
idea brought up on a
> local
> posting board and wanted some trusted
answers.
>
> Gabe Simoes
>
> '92 Black Stealth
RTTT
> - Intake & Exhaust @ 14psi
*** Info:
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***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 12 Feb 2002 18:21:17
-0800 (PST)
From: Jeff Lucius <
stealthman92@yahoo.com>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Turbo upgrades or stock replacement
Some info on my web pages
below, including shops.
http://www.geocities.com/lutransys/jlucius2/j2-2-turboguide.htmhttp://www.geocities.com/lutransys/jlucius5/j5-2-3s-compflowmaps.htmJeff
Lucius,
http://www.stealth316.com/- ---
menalteed <
menalteed@yahoo.com>
wrote:
> Anyone have a opinion on replacement turbo upgrades or
>
should I just replace the stock turbos. Also as far as
> the oil feed
line, I believe to get the warranty for
> the new turbos they require a
new oil line. I don't
> feel that they should and it is a lot of work if
not
> needed. The turbos I have cost almost as much for a
> re
build as new so I'm going with new.
>
> Peter TT STEALTH
92
*** Info:
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***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 12 Feb 2002 21:49:51
-0000
From: "Sam Shelat" <
sshelat@erols.com>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: RE: Tein
IMHO the toughest part of removing the old suspension
was taking the rear
shocks off their bottom perches. It did not just
slide off after the bolt
was removed. One took 1 hour with a torch and
a crow-bar and a bottle of PB
blaster. The other needed to be cut
off. Nothing is that difficult on
these cars, but at least on mine, it
always throws me a curve.
Sam
- -----Original Message-----
From:
Darren Schilberg <
dschilberg@pobox.com>
To:
Team3S@stealth-3000gt.st <
Team3S@stealth-3000gt.st>
Date:
Tuesday, February 12, 2002 5:00 PM
Subject: RE: Team3S: RE:
Tein
>I'm not going to second-guess his business decision but I don't
think
>anyone one Earth would keep the stock (read: squishy,
soft,
>under-powered) stock springs when doing something as nice as a
Tein,
>Tokico, Ground Control, HKS suspension upgrade. That would
be
>ludicrous. It is a package deal and with nice stiff shocks they
might
>not ever get used since the springs would be so squishy. But
most
>people I have seen with the Tein HA or Ground Control coilover
and
>springs were doing road track events or AutoX and needed the
stiffer
>springs already.
>
>And yes it might not be difficult
but trying to salvage suspension parts
>that are 4-8 years old and
well-rusted is not easy sometimes. My friend
>had a 1991 Honda
Prelude Si and put on the Ground Control coilovers. My
>favorite
Meineke shop did a great job but asked if he needed to save the
>urethane
bushing on top (like where the pillow mount is on the new
>stuff) or
things like that. He didn't and good thing because 3 of the
4
>corners came out nicely and the last one needed cut in order to
get
>loose. So it will not always disassemble easily but thanks for
saying
>install is not rocket
science.
>
>--Flash!
>
>-----Original
Message-----
>From:
tds@brightok.net>Sent: Monday,
February 11, 2002 19:00
>
>No - that was from a shop up in the NE
US.
>
>That was not installed - that was
mailorder.
>
>Install is not very difficult since
you
>entirely remove the stock setup and springs
>and replace
everything. You don't even
>need a spring compressor unless you
want
>to remove the stock springs.
>
>If you look in the list
archives - you will see that
>he advertised them right here months
and
>months ago! Looks like he still has them!
>
>Then
about 10 days ago he tried the same
>on 3SI.org and after getting the
business
>from owners that know better he ended
>up dropping the
price but still not even
>MSRP.
>
>I think he got stuck with
this setup and
>paid more for it months ago?
*** Info:
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***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 12 Feb 2002 19:39:48
-0800
From: "fastmax" <
fastmax@cox.net>
Subject: Re: Team3S:
Machining a pressure plate
There shouldn't be any problem --- they
just have to take the same amount
or material off of each surface or step. I
haven't had one done but almost
any competent auto machine shop should do
the job --- stepped flywheels
are not that
uncommon.
Jim
berry
==========================================
- ----- Original Message
-----
From: "Mark Wendlandt" <
stealth_tt@hotmail.com>
To:
<
team3s@stealth-3000gt.st>
Sent:
Tuesday, February 12, 2002 6:05 PM
Subject: Team3S: Machining a pressure
plate
| I know that I have seen some that have had pressure plates
machined(Mikael).
| Does anybody know where this could be
done? I called a couple of machine
| shops and they don't want to
touch it. I have an ACT with only 2K on it and
| I would like to just
replace the disk if possible.
|
| Mark Wendlandt
***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 12 Feb 2002 22:15:36
-0600
From: "Mark Wendlandt" <
stealth_tt@hotmail.com>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Machining a pressure plate
Thanks for the reply Jim, but I'm
referring to the pressure plate, not the
flywheel. 2000miles + 500hp =
smoked ACT modified street disk...just trying
to save $300 by reusing the
pressure plate if it can be machined.
Mark
>From: "fastmax"
<
fastmax@cox.net>
>There
shouldn't be any problem --- they just have to take the same
amount
>or material off of each surface or step. I haven't had one done
but almost
>any competent auto machine shop should do the job --- stepped
flywheels
>are not that uncommon.
>
>| I know that I have seen
some that have had pressure plates
>machined(Mikael).
>| Does anybody know where this
could be done? I called a couple of
>machine
>| shops and
they don't want to touch it. I have an ACT with only 2K on it
>and
>| I would like to just replace the disk if
possible.
>|
>| Mark Wendlandt
*** Info:
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***
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 13 Feb 2002 08:50:17
-0600
From: "Willis, Charles E." <
cewillis@TexasChildrensHospital.org>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: RE: Tein
Sam is absolutely right about the rear lower stut
mounts being corroded onto
the lower perches. This is a another common
place for corrosion on our
cars. The lesson here is that when you put
the new shocks on, you should
make an effort to clean the perch well and
protect it with at least some
chassis grease, but perhaps anti-seize compound
is better.
Chuck Willis
(I used a mallet and crowbar)
>
-----Original Message-----
> From: Sam Shelat
[SMTP:sshelat@erols.com]
> Sent: Tuesday, February 12, 2002 3:50
PM
> To:
dschilberg@pobox.com;
Team3S@stealth-3000gt.st>
Subject: Re: Team3S: RE: Tein
>
> IMHO the toughest part of
removing the old suspension was taking the rear
> shocks off their bottom
perches. It did not just slide off after the bolt
> was
removed. One took 1 hour with a torch and a crow-bar and a bottle
of
> PB
> blaster. The other needed to be cut off.
Nothing is that difficult on
> these cars, but at least on mine, it always
throws me a curve.
>
> Sam
*** Info:
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------------------------------
End of Team3S: 3000GT &
Stealth V1
#752
***************************************