Team3S: 3000GT & Stealth Monday, February 11
2002 Volume 01 : Number
751
----------------------------------------------------------------------
Date:
Sun, 10 Feb 2002 21:22:56 -0800 (PST)
From: raul cinelli <
raulcinelli@yahoo.com>
Subject:
Team3S: NEWBIE need help
> > Hi, my name is Raul Cinelli, 1 year
ago I
> contacted
> > you with my first question and after that,
I have
> > been
> > "disconected" from the net, due to
personal
> > problems.
> > (I am sorry about my english, I
speak spanish).
> > I live in Argentina, South America, and there
are
> > only a few 3000 GT around so nobody knows a lot
> about
this cars.
> > Mine is a 1995 mitsubishi 3000 GT VR4. withe
>
pearl.
> >
> > The problem started yesterday. I was traveling
in
> a
> > freeway and decided to go down to 3rd gear and
>
push
> > the throtle to the 6500 revs, after that, I
>
switched
> > to 4 gear and 2 or 3 seconds after that, I noticed
>
> that the car turned off for a second and then came
> > back
inmediately, 2 or 3 seconds after that, the
> > problem came back but
this time it was clearly
> that
> > the car will turn off
definitely so I put it on
> the
> > side of the freeway and at
the time it was going
> > slowly, the engine was failing and then
turned
> off.
> > I tryied to start it again, and the symptoms
I
> found
> > was:
> > - the car started again, but
inmediately start
> > failing and turned off. This occured
several
> times,
> always the same.
> > - If I pushed the
throtle a lot more, the car kept
> > running for a few seconds, but
inmediately after I
> > stoped to push the throtle a lot, it went
off.
> > - During this start and turn off thing, I noticed
> >
that when I slow down the revs, inmediately it
> sounds
> > like
it was going to turn off, at that moment, it
> > was a BLACK fume
coming from the exhaust.
> > - Also, when the revs go down, the Turbos
gauge
> > started to go up, a lot. When I pushed the throtle
>
a
> > little more, the gauge went down a little, and the
> >
same all the time.
> > - I waited for an hour or two, and after that,
I
> > tryed again to start the car. The same exactly
> symptoms
was found, BUT, the engine kept running for
> a
> little more time
without turning off, but the same
> symptoms appeared, the revs went UP
and DOWN second
> after second even with the throtle free, I mean,
I
> did
> not push the throtle at all, and I saw the revs
went
> up
> > and down , (up to 3000 and down to 1500).
>
> When the revs went to 1500 it sounds like it was
> going to turn off,
and then, whne it goes up to 2500
> it sounds good, like if there was no
problem. The
> gauge act exactly the same as in the freeway, when
>
the
> revs went down, the gauge went up, and vice versa.
> >
> > Can you please help me with this problem ?
> > Please,
let me know what you think and what parts
> > you think I may need to
replace and if you know
> their
> > prices it would help me a
lot.
> >
> > Thanks,
> >
> > Raul
Cinelli
> > 95 Mitsubishi 3000 GT VR4
> > withe pearl
> Argentina
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Sun, 10 Feb 2002 23:26:56
-0600
From: "cody" <
overclck@satx.rr.com>
Subject: RE:
Team3S: NEWBIE need help
Raul, this is a very simple fix to this
problem. It is most likely an
intercooler pipe that has come loose
somewhere in the system. If you
need more help (in Spanish if you need
it), Message me directly, and
hopefully I can help. (my girlfriend is
100% bilingual, and translates
very well)
- -Cody
***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 11 Feb 2002 07:00:29
+0100
From: "Jim Matthews" <
jim@the-matthews.com>
Subject: RE:
Team3S: Conversion of combination lights to UK spec
I am moving to
England in May and will be faced with the same issues ('94 TT), so if anyone
has
insight on this, I'd sure appreciate being included on
distro.
I've been told that I will need a rear fog light and amber rear
turn indicators. To keep the car's
appearance as stock as possible, one
idea is to rewire a reverse light to serve as the rear fog
light (change to
red lens or cover with red film) and replace the red reflectors (adjacent to
the
reverse lights in the bumper) with amber lights. Regardless, the
wiring will need to be worked
out... how do I disable the operation of the
red combination light during turn indication and enable
operation of
independent amber lights?
The Euro-spec VR-4 has independent amber rear
turn indicators, so hopefully this will not be overly
complicated.
Thanks for any suggestions!
- - --
Jim Matthews - Munich,
Germany
mailto:jim@the-matthews.com
(64 Kbps ISDN)
http://www.the-matthews.com***
3000GT-Stealth International (3Si) Member #0030
***
http://www.the-matthews.com/stealth.htmlJet
Black '94 Dodge Stealth R/T Twin-Turbo AWD AWS 6-spd
Adjustable Active
Suspension, Adjustable Exhaust System
K&N FIPK, A'PEXi Super AVC-R v.1
(1.0 bar @ 64% BADC)
A'PEXi Turbo Timer (30 sec), Blitz Super Blow-Off
Valve
Magnecore spark plug wires, Optima Red Top 830 Battery
Redline synth
fluids (trans= MT-90, xfer & diff= SPHvy)
Cryoed rotors, R4S pads,
braided lines, red calipers
Michelin Pilot XGT-Z4 245/45ZR17, Top Speed: 171
mph
G-Tech Pro: 0-60 4.79 sec, 1/4 13.16 sec @ 113.9 mph
1 Feb 99 Dyno
Session: 367 SAE HP, 354 lb-ft torque
- -----Original
Message-----
From:
owner-team3s@team3s.com
[mailto:owner-team3s@team3s.com]On Behalf
Of glynn birds
Sent: Sunday,
February 10, 2002 6:19 PM
To:
Team3S@stealth-3000gt.stSubject:
Team3S: Covertion of combination lights to UK spec
I've just imported a
GTO to the UK from Japan. I need to install separate
front sidelights and so
need to remove that function from the combination
lights. I have installed
the new lights but the sidelight goes out when
indicating. This is fine for
the combination light. I guess that circuit is
switched off when indicating.
I know you would not have come across this,
but could anyone please tell me
where this takes place and how I could
eliminate it.
Many
Thanks,
Glynn Birds
1994 Black Non Turbo Auto GTO
***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Sun, 10 Feb 2002 22:13:03
-0800
From: "fastmax" <
fastmax@cox.net>
Subject: Re: Team3S:
NEWBIE need help
I agree --- the problem is probably the 'Y' pipe. The
pipe that connects the
two turbo systems together at the throttle body blows
off fairly easily,
especially if the clamp is loose. Check the Y pipe first
and If that's not it
then start looking at all the pipes from the turbos to
the intercoolers and
then to the Y
pipe.
Jim
Berry
========================================
- ----- Original Message
-----
From: "cody" <
overclck@satx.rr.com>
| Raul,
this is a very simple fix to this problem. It is most likely an
|
intercooler pipe that has come loose somewhere in the system. If you
|
need more help (in Spanish if you need it), Message me directly, and
|
hopefully I can help. (my girlfriend is 100% bilingual, and
translates
| very well)
|
| -Cody
|
| -----Original
Message-----
| From:
owner-team3s@team3s.com
[mailto:owner-team3s@team3s.com] On Behalf
| Of raul cinelli
|
| >
> Hi, my name is Raul Cinelli, 1 year ago I
| > contacted
| >
> you with my first question and after that, I have
| > > been
|
> > "disconected" from the net, due to personal
| > >
problems.
| > > (I am sorry about my english, I speak spanish).
|
> > I live in Argentina, South America, and there are
| > > only
a few 3000 GT around so nobody knows a lot
| > about this cars.
| >
> Mine is a 1995 mitsubishi 3000 GT VR4. withe
| >
pearl.
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 11 Feb 2002 01:42:32
-0500 (EST)
From: Philip V Glazatov <
gphilip@umich.edu>
Subject: Team3S:
Ignition voltage question
Hi Team,
I am trying to make the Road
Dyno work. I am not sure what the problem is,
but it seems like I cannot get
a clean pulsing ignition signal. Road Dyno
could use an inductive pickup that
hooks onto one of the ignition wires,
but it seems like our wires are very
well shielded and the pickup does not
work. An altermative is to find a clean
pulsing 12V signal. Where do I
find it? There is something called "Ignition
Power Transistor" between the
ECU and the coils. Do I need to connect before
it or after? The tach
connects to one of the coil wires after this ignition
power transistor.
Does the tach a 12V input? Thank
you.
Philip
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 11 Feb 2002 11:08:47
+0100
From: "Roger Gerl" <
roger.gerl@bluewin.ch>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Ignition voltage question
Some ideas :
- - one of the
three driver wires that go into the coil pack
- - the ignition pulse from the
ECU
- - the rpm signal
Some of them could be 5V but this shoudln't be
a problem for the pickup.
Roger
93'3000GT TT
www.rtec.ch- ----- Original Message
-----
From: "Philip V Glazatov" <
gphilip@umich.edu>
To: <
team3s@team3s.com>
Sent: Monday,
February 11, 2002 7:42 AM
Subject: Team3S: Ignition voltage
question
> Hi Team,
>
> I am trying to make the Road Dyno
work. I am not sure what the problem is,
> but it seems like I cannot get
a clean pulsing ignition signal. Road Dyno
> could use an inductive pickup
that hooks onto one of the ignition wires,
> but it seems like our wires
are very well shielded and the pickup does not
> work. An altermative is
to find a clean pulsing 12V signal. Where do I
> find it? There is
something called "Ignition Power Transistor" between the
> ECU and the
coils. Do I need to connect before it or after? The tach
> connects to one
of the coil wires after this ignition power transistor.
> Does the tach a
12V input? Thank you.
>
> Philip
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 11 Feb 2002 06:48:07
-0500
From: "Berrios, Victor L CIV" <
VLBerrios@rroads.med.navy.mil>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: Im sure gonna ruin this machine.
You may want to check the
Blitz DSB-I-D.
I have it. It's easier to set with all kind of features( 4
channels,
limiter, alarm, graphs, replay function, etc.). Also, there is
power meter
available for this unit to enhance its capabilities.
Victor
'96 Pearl White VR-4
- -----Original
Message-----
From: Eric Cheek [mailto:echeek@cox-internet.com]
Sent:
Sunday, February 10, 2002 7:06 AM
To: 'Team3S' (E-mail)
Subject: RE:
Team3S: Im sure gonna ruin this machine.
Sup Darren, Here is what he had
e-mailed me,
"We can beat them at $449.00 plus back it up with hardcore
technical support
to do your install and tuning.. We have a small parts
listing, but our new
site will be very robust and have everything on it plus
MUCH more. Let me
know if this works for you.."
I think I'll be
purchasing one from him in the next couple of weeks.
I've
searched the net
high and low and the best price b4 his was 459.00 from
www.rotormotorsports.com .I did read
a thread in the archives for a site
that was suppose to have it listed under
"group buys" for 349 .. I checked
the site(
http://www.ecarshops.com/Merchant/merchant.mv?Screen=CTGY&Store_Code=TM&Category_Code=groupbuys
) and the price listed was 459.00 with free shipping ...
Ya, bang for the
buck this looks to be the best one to go with ..
and I've
found a ton of
information in the archives so hopefully I can get it set up
with out blowing
the motor ;) BTW have you thought of where to mount the
headpiece? I've
thought of building a "Pod" that will sit on top of the
turbo/oil/temp
tri-bumps .... I've also though about just velcroing about
the ac display
.... Id like for it to be easy to see, and not detract from
the looks of the
interior ... so well see ... Trying to get a few things
fixed up b4 August. I
don't want to be embarrassed at the meet ;)
Eric Cheek, 92 VR4
-
-----Original Message-----
From: Darren Schilberg
[mailto:dschilberg@pobox.com]
Sent: Thursday, May 09, 2002 11:23 PM
To:
echeek@cox-internet.comSubject:
RE: Team3S: Im sure gonna ruin this machine.
Eric,
What
price? That is the only one I want. I like how it can replay
in
those two analog gauges stuff like RPM, etc. I have seen it for as
low
as $400 I think. Can't remember.
- --Flash!
-
-----Original Message-----
From:
owner-team3s@team3s.com
[mailto:owner-team3s@team3s.com] On Behalf
Of Eric Cheek
Sent: Saturday,
February 09, 2002 23:37
To: 'Team3S' (E-mail)
Subject: RE: Team3S: Im sure
gonna ruin this machine.
Humm .. well the electric one I'm looking at is
the Apex AVC-R. I've
looked
on the web and in all my "VR4" mail .. I keep
it all btw ;) .. Anyhow
Brian
at
www.gtpro.com quoted me a great price ... so you
might try him
gtpro@netzero.net. And
there is a TON on info on it in the archives,
such as
what initial
settings to use etc. Also Brian said they would back it up
with
"hardcore
technical support"
Eric Cheek, 92 VR4
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 11 Feb 2002 10:54:29
-0500
From: "Berrios, Victor L CIV" <
VLBerrios@rroads.med.navy.mil>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: NEWBIE need help
Hi Raul:
One more thing, you'll probably
get the "check engine" light on. To reset
the light, unplug the battery
terminals for a while (Make sure you have the
security code of your radio).
As I told you in the private message, let me know if you further help
in
Spanish.
"Suerte" (Good Luck)
Victor
'96 VR-4
-
-----Original Message-----
From: cody [mailto:overclck@satx.rr.com]
Sent:
Monday, February 11, 2002 5:27 AM
To: 'raul cinelli';
Team3S@stealth-3000gt.stSubject:
RE: Team3S: NEWBIE need help
Raul, this is a very simple fix to this
problem. It is most likely an
intercooler pipe that has come loose
somewhere in the system. If you
need more help (in Spanish if you need
it), Message me directly, and
hopefully I can help. (my girlfriend is
100% bilingual, and translates
very well)
- -Cody
-
-----Original Message-----
From:
owner-team3s@team3s.com
[mailto:owner-team3s@team3s.com] On Behalf
Of raul cinelli
Sent: Sunday,
February 10, 2002 11:23 PM
To:
Team3S@stealth-3000gt.stSubject:
Team3S: NEWBIE need help
> > Hi, my name is Raul Cinelli, 1 year
ago I
> contacted
> > you with my first question and after that,
I have
> > been
> > "disconected" from the net, due to
personal
> > problems.
> > (I am sorry about my english, I
speak spanish).
> > I live in Argentina, South America, and there
are
> > only a few 3000 GT around so nobody knows a lot
> about
this cars.
> > Mine is a 1995 mitsubishi 3000 GT VR4. withe
>
pearl.
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 11 Feb 2002 09:06:52
-0600
From: "Willis, Charles E." <
cewillis@TexasChildrensHospital.org>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: Mushy Brakes
check the vacuum hose on the brake
booster. It has a check valve in it. It
makes a tight turn and can also
be pinched off.
Adding fluid indicateds it is going somewhere, like there
was air in the
lines. Was the engine running while you bled the
brakes?
There is no slave cylinder on the brake hydrallic system - the
caliper
pistons are the slave to the master cylinder.
The master
cylinder may have gone south, else the master cylinder may just
need to be
bled.
Chuck Willis
> Any clues where to look
first...
>
> -Cody
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 11 Feb 2002 09:28:13
-0600
From: Merritt <
merritt@cedar-rapids.net>
Subject:
Team3S: Sway bar installation
My front and rear sway bars have been
shipped!
Now, all I gotta do is put them in.
Do any of our fabulous,
helpful reader web sites have sway bar
installation
instructions?
Rich/slow old poop/94 VR4
***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 11 Feb 2002 09:30:57
-0600
From: "cody" <
overclck@satx.rr.com>
Subject: RE:
Team3S: Mushy Brakes
Thanks Charles... After a little
troubleshooting, and a few hundred
presses of the brake pedal, the fluid
level went down some, and also the
pedal firmed back up a touch, but not to
full firmness... This is the
third time I've added fluid, so I am going
to attribute it to a small
leak somewhere, although I don't know where
actually, and I can't find
any drips... I will take it to the brake
shop today and see what they
say... BTW - I checked that check valve
and there is vacuum only on the
cylinder end of the line. Thanks for
the help all that have responded.
According to the service manual, I went
through the test for the master
cylinder, and it checks out ok.
- -Cody
- -----Original Message-----
From:
owner-team3s@team3s.com
[mailto:owner-team3s@team3s.com] On Behalf
Of Willis, Charles E.
Sent:
Monday, February 11, 2002 9:07 AM
To: 'cody'; Team3S
Subject: RE: Team3S:
Mushy Brakes
check the vacuum hose on the brake booster. It has a
check valve in it.
It
makes a tight turn and can also be pinched
off.
Adding fluid indicateds it is going somewhere, like there was air in
the
lines. Was the engine running while you bled the
brakes?
There is no slave cylinder on the brake hydrallic system - the
caliper
pistons are the slave to the master cylinder.
The master
cylinder may have gone south, else the master cylinder may
just
need to be
bled.
Chuck Willis
> Any clues where to look
first...
>
> -Cody
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 11 Feb 2002 09:31:25
-0600
From: "Jannusch, Matt" <
mjannusch@marketwatch.com>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: Sway bar installation
> Do any of our fabulous, helpful
reader web sites have sway
> bar installation instructions?
Heh,
have fun! Jack up the car as far as possible within safety limits,
or
put it on a hoist. It is easier to get those things out when you
have a lot
of room to finagle them around to get them out. I haven't
done it on a 3/S,
but on the DSM it was reasonably easy with it high off the
ground.
- -Matt
'95 3000GT Spyder VR4
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 11 Feb 2002 07:46:28
-0800
From: "fastmax" <
fastmax@cox.net>
Subject: Re: Team3S:
Ignition voltage question
Our ignition systems have a waste spark system
--- we have three coils for
six cylinders --- one spark for compression and
one wasted spark for exhaust
cycle. Maybe the unit only expects one. There is
also an speed or RPM signal
at the ECU.
I wouldn't mess around with
ignition power transistors --- additional loading
from another device may
cause a problem.
Jim
Berry
=============================================
- ----- Original
Message -----
From: "Philip V Glazatov" <
gphilip@umich.edu>
| Hi Team,
|
| I am trying to make the Road Dyno work. I am not sure what the problem
is,
| but it seems like I cannot get a clean pulsing ignition signal. Road
Dyno
| could use an inductive pickup that hooks onto one of the ignition
wires,
| but it seems like our wires are very well shielded and the pickup
does not
| work. An altermative is to find a clean pulsing 12V signal. Where
do I
| find it? There is something called "Ignition Power Transistor" between
the
| ECU and the coils. Do I need to connect before it or after? The
tach
| connects to one of the coil wires after this ignition power
transistor.
| Does the tach a 12V input? Thank you.
***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 11 Feb 2002 07:51:28
-0800
From: "fastmax" <
fastmax@cox.net>
Subject: Re: Team3S:
NEWBIE need help
FWIW --- I had my 'Y' pipe blow off at the track once
and there was no
check engine light set.
Embarrassing moment --- I
finally bulled my way past this guy I'd been
crowding for a lap and a half
and all of a sudden I've got no power and
he's all over my bumper thinking
I'm a idiot.
Jim
Berry
=============================================
- ----- Original
Message -----
From: "Berrios, Victor L CIV" <
VLBerrios@rroads.med.navy.mil>
To:
<
team3s@stealth-3000gt.st>
Sent:
Monday, February 11, 2002 7:54 AM
Subject: RE: Team3S: NEWBIE need
help
| Hi Raul:
| One more thing, you'll probably get the "check
engine" light on. To reset
| the light, unplug the battery terminals for a
while (Make sure you have the
| security code of your radio).
| As I told
you in the private message, let me know if you further help in
| Spanish.
|
| "Suerte" (Good Luck)
|
| Victor
| '96
VR-4
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 11 Feb 2002 09:55:23
-0600
From: "cody" <
overclck@satx.rr.com>
Subject: RE:
Team3S: Ignition voltage question
Does all it take is a RPM
signal??? That is easily found at the ECU,
and it is your standard RPM
signal, as it works with my autometer
tach...
Pinouts are on Jeff
Lucius' site...
- -Cody
- -----Original Message-----
From:
owner-team3s@team3s.com
[mailto:owner-team3s@team3s.com] On Behalf
Of fastmax
Sent: Monday,
February 11, 2002 9:46 AM
To: Philip V Glazatov;
team3s@team3s.comSubject: Re: Team3S:
Ignition voltage question
Our ignition systems have a waste spark system
--- we have three coils
for
six cylinders --- one spark for compression
and one wasted spark for
exhaust
cycle. Maybe the unit only expects one.
There is also an speed or RPM
signal
at the ECU.
I wouldn't mess
around with ignition power transistors --- additional
loading
from another
device may cause a problem.
Jim Berry
=============================================
- ----- Original
Message -----
From: "Philip V Glazatov" <
gphilip@umich.edu>
| Hi Team,
|
| I am trying to make the Road Dyno work. I am not sure what the
problem
is,
| but it seems like I cannot get a clean pulsing ignition
signal. Road
Dyno
| could use an inductive pickup that hooks onto one of
the ignition
wires,
| but it seems like our wires are very well shielded
and the pickup does
not
| work. An altermative is to find a clean pulsing
12V signal. Where do I
| find it? There is something called "Ignition Power
Transistor" between
the
| ECU and the coils. Do I need to connect before
it or after? The tach
| connects to one of the coil wires after this ignition
power
transistor.
| Does the tach a 12V input? Thank you.
***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 11 Feb 2002 08:09:31
-0800
From: Rick Pierce <
piercera@pacbell.net>
Subject:
Team3S: Re: 3S-Racers: Sway bar installation
The instructions listed on
the 3SX page are for the non AWD.
- ----- Original Message -----
From:
"Willis, Charles E." <
cewillis@TexasChildrensHospital.org>
To:
<
3sracers@speedtoys.com>;
<
Team3S@stealth-3000gt.st>
Sent:
Monday, February 11, 2002 8:00 AM
Subject: RE: 3S-Racers: Sway bar
installation
>
http://www.3sxperformance.com/suspension.asp>
>
instructions for the rear antisway bar
>
> > My front and rear
sway bars have been shipped!
> > Now, all I gotta do is put them
in.
> > Do any of our fabulous, helpful reader web sites have sway
bar
> > installation
> > instructions?
> >
>
> Rich/slow old poop/94 VR4
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 11 Feb 2002 11:53:34
-0500
From: "Darren Schilberg" <
dschilberg@pobox.com>
Subject: RE:
Team3S: Sway bar installation
You also need to support the rear diff on a
jack so don't get the car up
too high. Lower the diff on the jack and
then lower the jack a little
to get the bar out. I think that is what
the manual said to do.
Hopefully they ship with longer bolts than stock
as Jim Floyd's car in
Kansas had the front anti-sway bar pop loose I think
because one of the
bolts was not long enough or the bushing it went through
was too large
in diameter. Regardless of what happened we found out
what it was
easily enough.
I'm next on the list to have them shipped
so I'm glad I get to wait on a
guinea pig to install first.
<grin>
- --Flash!
Stock suspension still
- -----Original
Message-----
From: Jannusch, Matt
Sent: Monday, February 11, 2002
10:31
Heh, have fun! Jack up the car as far as possible
within safety limits,
or
put it on a hoist. It is easier to get
those things out when you have a
lot
of room to finagle them around to get
them out. I haven't done it on a
3/S,
but on the DSM it was
reasonably easy with it high off the ground.
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 11 Feb 2002 12:50:33
-0500
From:
pvg1@daimlerchrysler.comSubject:
RE: Team3S: Ignition voltage question
Road Dyno uses a pulsing signal
therefore I need to find one. It could be
either an inductive signal from the
spark plug wires (which is not very
strong because our spark plug wires are
too good), or any 12V pulsing
signal. I do not know if the tach uses a
pulsing input or just 0-12V or
0-5V input. But I think I figured this one out
almost, I will try to use
one of the blue wires that go from that ignition
power transistor to one of
the coils. These wires should have a 12V pulse
every engine revolution,
whereas wires before the ignition power transistor
should have only 5V. I
will keep you posted.
Philip
-
-----------------------------------------------------
"cody" <
overclck@satx.rr.com> wrote:
Does
all it take is a RPM signal??? That is easily found at the ECU,
and it
is your standard RPM signal, as it works with my
autometer
tach...
Pinouts are on Jeff Lucius' site...
-
-Cody
- -----Original Message-----
From:
owner-team3s@team3s.com
[mailto:owner-team3s@team3s.com] On Behalf
Of fastmax
Sent: Monday,
February 11, 2002 9:46 AM
To: Philip V Glazatov;
team3s@team3s.comSubject: Re: Team3S:
Ignition voltage question
Our ignition systems have a waste spark system
--- we have three coils
for
six cylinders --- one spark for compression
and one wasted spark for
exhaust
cycle. Maybe the unit only expects one.
There is also an speed or RPM
signal
at the ECU.
I wouldn't mess
around with ignition power transistors --- additional
loading
from another
device may cause a problem.
Jim Berry
=============================================
- ----- Original
Message -----
From: "Philip V Glazatov" <
gphilip@umich.edu>
| Hi
Team,
|
| I am trying to make the Road Dyno work. I am not sure what the
problem
is,
| but it seems like I cannot get a clean pulsing ignition
signal. Road
Dyno
| could use an inductive pickup that hooks onto one of
the ignition
wires,
| but it seems like our wires are very well shielded
and the pickup does
not
| work. An altermative is to find a clean pulsing
12V signal. Where do I
| find it? There is something called "Ignition Power
Transistor" between
the
| ECU and the coils. Do I need to connect before
it or after? The tach
| connects to one of the coil wires after this ignition
power
transistor.
| Does the tach a 12V input? Thank you.
***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 11 Feb 2002 10:45:30
-0800
From: "Gross, Erik" <
erik.gross@intel.com>
Subject:
Team3S: Road Dyno Inductive Pickup and Initial RD Comments
Hey, whoa,
time-out! An inductive pickup (like the one on the Road Dyno)
will most
certainly work on the stock spark plug wires! I've gotten one to
work
on 4 different 3000GTs with stock and Magnacor wires.
Specifically,
this was the inductive pickup for my timing light. So you
don't have to
hack into ECU wires unless you really want to =)
Just
this weekend, a couple of my friends and I chipped in and bought a Road
Dyno
and tested it on multiple cars. It worked just fine on Brian's '94
VR-4
and my Corolla (my '95 VR-4 has no front end at the moment). We
also
tried it on a '95 Miata but we didn't have time to figure out what was
up
with the ignition readings. My Corolla makes about 100fwhp - woohoo
:)
On the VR-4, we found that you had to have the inductive clip
oriented
correctly (if you get no signal, flip it around), and you have to
make sure
it doesn't get knocked loose when you close your hood.
Connect it to the
top spark plug wire(4?), near the "radiator" cap.
That allows the clip to
sit between down in the recess near the cap.
Works like a charm. Also,
make sure you connect the red and black
alligator clips to reduce noise.
And one more thing... set your "sparks per
rev" setting to 1.0 since we have
a wasted-spark ignition system. A
"normal" 4-stroke engine would have 0.5
sparks per rev.
I'll let Brian
relate the results of the VR-4, but suffice it to say, the
Road Dyno is SO
cool. We played around with his MBC and did several runs to
gather
data. I'll be doing much more when I get my car back on the
road.
Finally, we'll know what that Stillen downpipe does other than by the
seat
of the pants...
Brian's got a ball-and-spring MBC, and the
difference in setting it to 15psi
rather than 12psi was a 30-40 (hp AND
ft/lb) gain from about 5000RPM to
7000RPM, according to the excel spreadsheet
he just sent me =) 265
awhp@6000RPM
and 291ft/lbs @4000RPM...
- --Erik
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 11 Feb 2002 14:23:40
-0500
From:
pvg1@daimlerchrysler.comSubject:
Team3S: Re: Road Dyno Inductive Pickup and Initial RD Comments
Cool! I am
very excited for all of you there. I would have been even
happier if my unit
worked too. ;(
If your Road Dyno works fine then maybe I just need to
replace mine. I
tried it back and fourth on two cars and could not download
any data in the
computer. There is that "tacho" light that is supposed to
blink at 1 blink
per second for ever 1000 rpm and it blinks fine on my wife's
Avenger, but
on my Stealth it goes solid above 4000 rpm. I was not able to
connect any
data in either case. I tried to hook it in both directions with
the
alligator clips connected to each other. I even ran a needle through one
of
the wires like Mike has on his website. I will try it one more
time
tomorrow and send it back for a replacement. This guy Mike is very slow
on
his email, @#$%$, it is not very fun to ask him for help. I have
been
waiting to start some of my mods because of this goofy
unit.
Philip
-
------------------------------------------------------------
"Gross, Erik"
<
erik.gross@intel.com>
wrote:
Hey, whoa, time-out! An inductive pickup (like the one on the
Road Dyno)
will most certainly work on the stock spark plug wires! I've
gotten one to
work on 4 different 3000GTs with stock and Magnacor
wires. Specifically,
this was the inductive pickup for my timing
light. So you don't have to
hack into ECU wires unless you really want
to =)
Just this weekend, a couple of my friends and I chipped in and
bought a
Road
Dyno and tested it on multiple cars. It worked just
fine on Brian's '94
VR-4 and my Corolla (my '95 VR-4 has no front end at the
moment). We also
tried it on a '95 Miata but we didn't have time to
figure out what was up
with the ignition readings. My Corolla makes
about 100fwhp - woohoo :)
On the VR-4, we found that you had to have the
inductive clip oriented
correctly (if you get no signal, flip it around), and
you have to make sure
it doesn't get knocked loose when you close your
hood. Connect it to the
top spark plug wire(4?), near the "radiator"
cap. That allows the clip to
sit between down in the recess near the
cap. Works like a charm. Also,
make sure you connect the red and
black alligator clips to reduce noise.
And one more thing... set your "sparks
per rev" setting to 1.0 since we
have
a wasted-spark ignition
system. A "normal" 4-stroke engine would have 0.5
sparks per
rev.
I'll let Brian relate the results of the VR-4, but suffice it to
say, the
Road Dyno is SO cool. We played around with his MBC and did
several runs
to
gather data. I'll be doing much more when I get my
car back on the road.
Finally, we'll know what that Stillen downpipe does
other than by the seat
of the pants...
Brian's got a ball-and-spring
MBC, and the difference in setting it to
15psi
rather than 12psi was a
30-40 (hp AND ft/lb) gain from about 5000RPM to
7000RPM, according to the
excel spreadsheet he just sent me =) 265
awhp@6000RPM and 291ft/lbs @4000RPM...
-
--Erik
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 11 Feb 2002 13:24:21
-0600
From: "cody" <
overclck@satx.rr.com>
Subject:
Team3S: Brake Woes
Found out my braking problem.
Extremely
serious... Leaking ABS Unit. No way to patch it so it seems,
will
need to be replaced. This sucks a$$ to say the least...
Any
ideas (am gonna try M&S Recycling right now), but how could I get
rid of
this thing entirely. Does it also function as a proportioning
valve, or
is that elsewhere in the system. What about replacing it with
the
non-ABS proportioning valve off say a base model stealth?? What
about
aftermarket proportioning valves???
Help!!!
-
-Cody
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 11 Feb 2002 11:29:55
-0800
From: "Gross, Erik" <
erik.gross@intel.com>
Subject:
Team3S: RE: Road Dyno Inductive Pickup and Initial RD Comments
> There
is that "tacho" light that is supposed to blink at 1 blink
> per second
for ever 1000 rpm and it blinks fine on my wife's
> Avenger, but on my
Stealth it goes solid above 4000 rpm.
> I was not able to connect
any data in either case.
Sounds like you might not have configured the
recorder unit with the proper
number of sparks/rev. There's a setting
you must use with the data download
tool to configure the recorder
properly. The tach light works just fine on
all the cars we
tried. Don't give up yet :)
- --Erik
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 11 Feb 2002 13:31:59
-0600
From: "Jannusch, Matt" <
mjannusch@marketwatch.com>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: Brake Woes
> Any ideas (am gonna try M&S Recycling
right now), but how
> could I get rid of this thing entirely. Does
it also
> function as a proportioning valve, or is that elsewhere in
> the system. What about replacing it with the non-ABS
>
proportioning valve off say a base model stealth?? What
> about
aftermarket proportioning valves???
The proportioning valve is separate,
located on the firewall right by the
rear turbo. You could probably
just link the lines together (or make new
ones) to create a non-ABS system if
that's what you wanted.
You don't want to change the proportioning valve
- the brake bias should
remain the same to keep good brake balance.
-
-Matt
'95 3000GT Spyder VR4
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 11 Feb 2002 11:29:56
-0800
From: "fastmax" <
fastmax@cox.net>
Subject: Re: Team3S:
oil pan baffles
I'm interested for several reasons, the primary reason is
that the car is
used at track events and I have a concern about oiling the
engine in the
long carousel turns, it may be unreasonable, but when I'm done
here I'm
going to have 10 grand in the engine and I don't want to turn it to
slag.
The pre-oiler seems like a good idea under any circumstance, and
even
more so in my case ---- the car sits for a week or two between starts
and
pre-oil has to be good.
The turbo timer isn't of much interest to
me [ the Accusump system
doesn't have that capability anyway ] --- the
turbos are water
cooled and I never drive the car hard and pull over and
park it. I live in
an urban environment so there's always a few blocks of
cool off before
I shut down. At the track we have a cool down lap and I'll
usually take a
few laps around the paddock for additional brake
cooling.
Jim
Berry
============================================
- ----- Original
Message -----
From: "Sam Shelat" <
sshelat@erols.com>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: oil pan baffles
| I have about 102,000 miles on the stock turbos
and I never let it idle for a
| minute before I shut down. I really do
not think pre-lubers etc. really
| make a difference on these cars. If
you had a Buick Grand National, then I
| would agree with the use of such
products. These motors are known to go
| about 200,000 miles before
needing rebuilds when not beat on. Once you put
| aftermarket turbos
and other parts to make the car go faster, the stock
| internals are not
known to last very long. I just think money could be
| better spent
elsewhere (IMHO)
|
| Sam
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 11 Feb 2002 13:52:50
-0600
From: "cody" <
overclck@satx.rr.com>
Subject: RE:
Team3S: Brake Woes
Ok... sooo... on the ABS unit, there are 2 "inputs"
and 4 "outputs".
The outputs are labeled for each wheel. The
inputs.. What about the
inputs??? They are labeled Master
Cylinder for front right and left
rear and for front left and for right
rear. So, I would assume I can
get some "t-fittings" and some braided
lines and connect the master
cylinder outputs to the wheel inputs??? If
this will work, that's what
I'm gonna do... Gonna run to Napa and get
what I need if you all think
this will work...
- -Cody
-
-----Original Message-----
From:
owner-team3s@team3s.com
[mailto:owner-team3s@team3s.com] On Behalf
Of Jannusch, Matt
Sent: Monday,
February 11, 2002 1:32 PM
To: 'cody'; Team3S
Subject: RE: Team3S: Brake
Woes
> Any ideas (am gonna try M&S Recycling right now), but how
> could I get rid of this thing entirely. Does it also
>
function as a proportioning valve, or is that elsewhere in
> the
system. What about replacing it with the non-ABS
> proportioning
valve off say a base model stealth?? What
> about aftermarket
proportioning valves???
The proportioning valve is separate, located on
the firewall right by
the
rear turbo. You could probably just link
the lines together (or make
new
ones) to create a non-ABS system if that's
what you wanted.
You don't want to change the proportioning valve - the
brake bias should
remain the same to keep good brake balance.
-
-Matt
'95 3000GT Spyder VR4
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 11 Feb 2002 11:56:37
-0800 (PST)
From: Geoff Mohler <
gemohler@www.speedtoys.com>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: oil pan baffles
About cooldown.
Ive had my turbo and
exhaust manifolds jet-hot coated.
Even after a full mile of 35-40mph easy
cruising to my house, I can still
park, turn the car off, open the hood, and
have a cherry glow from the
manifold and exhaust housing of the
turbo.
Jet-hot keeps all that heat in (which is good) but its caused me
to
re-thin a turbo timer even tho I am a good person when it comes to
driving
cool when I can to calm things down.
After about 2 minutes,
the glow is gone.
On Mon, 11 Feb 2002, fastmax wrote:
> I'm
interested for several reasons, the primary reason is that the car is
>
used at track events and I have a concern about oiling the engine in the
>
long carousel turns, it may be unreasonable, but when I'm done here I'm
>
going to have 10 grand in the engine and I don't want to turn it to
slag.
>
> The pre-oiler seems like a good idea under any
circumstance, and even
> more so in my case ---- the car sits for a week
or two between starts and
> pre-oil has to be good.
>
> The
turbo timer isn't of much interest to me [ the Accusump system
> doesn't
have that capability anyway ] --- the turbos are water
> cooled and I
never drive the car hard and pull over and park it. I live in
> an urban
environment so there's always a few blocks of cool off before
> I shut
down. At the track we have a cool down lap and I'll usually take a
> few
laps around the paddock for additional brake cooling.
>
> Jim Berry
>
============================================
> ----- Original Message
-----
> From: "Sam Shelat" <
sshelat@erols.com>
> Subject: Re:
Team3S: oil pan baffles
>
>
> | I have about 102,000 miles
on the stock turbos and I never let it idle for a
> | minute before I shut
down. I really do not think pre-lubers etc. really
> | make a
difference on these cars. If you had a Buick Grand National, then
I
> | would agree with the use of such products. These motors are
known to go
> | about 200,000 miles before needing rebuilds when not beat
on. Once you put
> | aftermarket turbos and other parts to make the
car go faster, the stock
> | internals are not known to last very
long. I just think money could be
> | better spent elsewhere
(IMHO)
> |
> | Sam
- ---
Geoff Mohler
***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 11 Feb 2002 14:56:58
-0500
From:
pvg1@daimlerchrysler.comSubject:
Re: Team3S: RE: Road Dyno Inductive Pickup and Initial RD Comments
No, I
did not forget about that sparks/rev setting. I might give up on
this
particular unit, but not on the whole idea because this is the only
tuning
tool that I have. Thanks for the encouragement.
Philip
-
-------------------------------------------
"Gross, Erik" <
erik.gross@intel.com> wrote:
>
There is that "tacho" light that is supposed to blink at 1 blink
> per
second for ever 1000 rpm and it blinks fine on my wife's
> Avenger, but on
my Stealth it goes solid above 4000 rpm.
> I was not able to connect
any data in either case.
Sounds like you might not have configured the
recorder unit with the proper
number of sparks/rev. There's a setting
you must use with the data
download
tool to configure the recorder
properly. The tach light works just fine on
all the cars we
tried. Don't give up yet :)
- --Erik
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 11 Feb 2002 11:54:50
-0800
From: "fastmax" <
fastmax@cox.net>
Subject: Re: Team3S:
Brake Woes
The car has a proportioning valve at the firewall --- almost
impossible to get at ---
but you don't need to get at it to bypass the ABS
pump.
The plumbing would be a PITA to bypass the ABS pump, you'd
only have
to install a couple of T's to replace the pump but it's in a
fairly confined space.
I'd use the AN fittings with the collar rather
than try to double flair the lines
in the close confines of the ABS pump
area.
Jim Berry
PS ---
does it only leak when it operates or all of the time, you could remove
the
fuse if it only leaks under test or when it's operating.
-
--------------------------------------------------------------------------
-
----- Original Message -----
From: "cody" <
overclck@satx.rr.com>
To: "Team3S"
<
team3s@mail.speedtoys.com>;
"'Starnet'" <
stealth@stls.verio.net>
Sent:
Monday, February 11, 2002 11:24 AM
Subject: Team3S: Brake Woes
|
Found out my braking problem.
|
| Extremely serious...
Leaking ABS Unit. No way to patch it so it seems,
| will need to be
replaced. This sucks a$$ to say the least...
|
| Any ideas
(am gonna try M&S Recycling right now), but how could I get
| rid of this
thing entirely. Does it also function as a proportioning
| valve, or is
that elsewhere in the system. What about replacing it with
| the
non-ABS proportioning valve off say a base model stealth?? What
| about
aftermarket proportioning valves???
|
| Help!!!
|
|
-Cody
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 11 Feb 2002 15:02:43
-0500
From: "Dg B" <
dbretton@hotmail.com>
Subject:
Team3S: Little OT: RioCar/Empeg Installs
Hello
all,
Little OT: If anyone has had experience
installing an Empeg/RioCar in
their 3/S, please email me privately. I
would like to get some tips/hints
on installation.
Thanks.
-
-Dennis
"Time flies like an arrow. Fruit flies like a
banana."
- Marx,
Groucho
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 11 Feb 2002 12:09:07
-0800
From: "fastmax" <
fastmax@cox.net>
Subject: Re: Team3S:
Brake Woes
The attached link from Jeff Lucius's copy of the Tech manual
shows
the layout of the lines. It's not just a matter of gluing a couple
of
lines together --- brake lines are critical. You can use SS flex
and
special fittings but you're not likely to find it at your corner auto
zone.
If you use steel you should do a 45º double flair [ tool is about
$50 ]
or as I said before the AN fittings which probably come in the type
for
SS flex lines.
Don't forget to attach diagonal corners to the same
master cylinder
piston e.g.. right front and left rear on the same
line.
http://www.team3s.com/STIM91/Images/tim_05-07.gif
Jim Berry
===============================================
- ----- Original
Message -----
From: "cody" <
overclck@satx.rr.com>
|
Ok... sooo... on the ABS unit, there are 2 "inputs" and 4 "outputs".
| The
outputs are labeled for each wheel. The inputs.. What about the
|
inputs??? They are labeled Master Cylinder for front right and left
|
rear and for front left and for right rear. So, I would assume I can
|
get some "t-fittings" and some braided lines and connect the master
|
cylinder outputs to the wheel inputs??? If this will work, that's
what
| I'm gonna do... Gonna run to Napa and get what I need if you all
think
| this will work...
|
| -Cody
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 11 Feb 2002 15:12:07
-0500
From:
pvg1@daimlerchrysler.comSubject:
Re: Team3S: Road Dyno Inductive Pickup and Initial RD Comments
So, Brian,
what is that Stillen DP worth? Please tell us what your baseline
was, if you
had gutted precats before, etc, etc.
Philip
-
-----------------------------------------------------
"Gross, Erik" <
erik.gross@intel.com> wrote:
I'll
let Brian relate the results of the VR-4, but suffice it to say, the
Road
Dyno is SO cool. We played around with his MBC and did several
runs
to
gather data. I'll be doing much more when I get my car back
on the road.
Finally, we'll know what that Stillen downpipe does other than
by the seat
of the pants...
Brian's got a ball-and-spring MBC, and the
difference in setting it to
15psi
rather than 12psi was a 30-40 (hp AND
ft/lb) gain from about 5000RPM to
7000RPM, according to the excel spreadsheet
he just sent me =) 265
awhp@6000RPM
and 291ft/lbs @4000RPM...
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 11 Feb 2002 12:16:23
-0800 (PST)
From: Geoff Mohler <
gemohler@www.speedtoys.com>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Brake Woes
If you come up with the sizes of what you need, I
can have them made for
you...or send you the raw materials as well.
On
Mon, 11 Feb 2002, fastmax wrote:
> The attached link from Jeff
Lucius's copy of the Tech manual shows
> the layout of the lines. It's not
just a matter of gluing a couple of
> lines together --- brake lines are
critical. You can use SS flex and
> special fittings but you're not likely
to find it at your corner auto zone.
>
> If you use steel you
should do a 45º double flair [ tool is about $50 ]
> or as I said before
the AN fittings which probably come in the type for
> SS flex
lines.
>
> Don't forget to attach diagonal corners to the same
master cylinder
> piston e.g.. right front and left rear on the same
line.
>
>
http://www.team3s.com/STIM91/Images/tim_05-07.gif>
> Jim Berry
>
===============================================
> ----- Original Message
-----
> From: "cody" <
overclck@satx.rr.com>
>
>
| Ok... sooo... on the ABS unit, there are 2 "inputs" and 4 "outputs".
> |
The outputs are labeled for each wheel. The inputs.. What about
the
> | inputs??? They are labeled Master Cylinder for front right
and left
> | rear and for front left and for right rear. So, I would
assume I can
> | get some "t-fittings" and some braided lines and connect
the master
> | cylinder outputs to the wheel inputs??? If this will
work, that's what
> | I'm gonna do... Gonna run to Napa and get what
I need if you all think
> | this will work...
> |
> |
-Cody
- ---
Geoff Mohler
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 11 Feb 2002 14:19:38
-0600
From: "cody" <
overclck@satx.rr.com>
Subject: RE:
Team3S: Brake Woes
Autozone carries what I need, only problem is I need
to find the exact
size of the threading first... I saw everything I
need there, and in
stock... but... I need to buy everything I
need as this is my only
transportation (at least autozone is only a few
blocks away if I should
need to walk).
Anyone know the standard brake
thread sizing on our cars???
- -Cody
- -----Original
Message-----
From: fastmax [mailto:fastmax@cox.net]
Sent: Monday,
February 11, 2002 2:09 PM
To: cody; 'Jannusch, Matt'; 'Team3S'
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Brake Woes
The attached link from Jeff Lucius's copy of the
Tech manual shows
the layout of the lines. It's not just a matter of gluing a
couple of
lines together --- brake lines are critical. You can use SS flex
and
special fittings but you're not likely to find it at your corner
auto
zone.
If you use steel you should do a 45º double flair [ tool is
about $50 ]
or as I said before the AN fittings which probably come in the
type for
SS flex lines.
Don't forget to attach diagonal corners to the
same master cylinder
piston e.g.. right front and left rear on the same
line.
http://www.team3s.com/STIM91/Images/tim_05-07.gif
Jim Berry
===============================================
- ----- Original
Message -----
From: "cody" <
overclck@satx.rr.com>
| Ok...
sooo... on the ABS unit, there are 2 "inputs" and 4 "outputs".
| The outputs
are labeled for each wheel. The inputs.. What about the
|
inputs??? They are labeled Master Cylinder for front right and left
|
rear and for front left and for right rear. So, I would assume I can
|
get some "t-fittings" and some braided lines and connect the master
|
cylinder outputs to the wheel inputs??? If this will work,
that's
what
| I'm gonna do... Gonna run to Napa and get what I need
if you all
think
| this will work...
|
| -Cody
***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 11 Feb 2002 12:25:14
-0800
From: "fastmax" <
fastmax@cox.net>
Subject: Re: Team3S:
Brake Woes
The male fittings are 10 x 1.0 as I
recall.
Jim
Berry
===============================
- ----- Original Message
-----
From: "cody" <
overclck@satx.rr.com>
To:
"'fastmax'" <
fastmax@cox.net>;
"'Team3S'" <
team3s@mail.speedtoys.com>
Sent:
Monday, February 11, 2002 12:19 PM
Subject: RE: Team3S: Brake
Woes
Autozone carries what I need, only problem is I need to find the
exact
size of the threading first... I saw everything I need there, and
in
stock... but... I need to buy everything I need as this is my
only
transportation (at least autozone is only a few blocks away if I
should
need to walk).
Anyone know the standard brake thread sizing on
our cars???
- -Cody
- -----Original Message-----
From: fastmax
[mailto:fastmax@cox.net]
Sent: Monday, February 11, 2002 2:09 PM
To: cody;
'Jannusch, Matt'; 'Team3S'
Subject: Re: Team3S: Brake Woes
The
attached link from Jeff Lucius's copy of the Tech manual shows
the layout of
the lines. It's not just a matter of gluing a couple of
lines together ---
brake lines are critical. You can use SS flex and
special fittings but you're
not likely to find it at your corner auto
zone.
If you use steel you
should do a 45º double flair [ tool is about $50 ]
or as I said before the AN
fittings which probably come in the type for
SS flex lines.
Don't
forget to attach diagonal corners to the same master cylinder
piston e.g..
right front and left rear on the same line.
http://www.team3s.com/STIM91/Images/tim_05-07.gif
Jim Berry
===============================================
- ----- Original
Message -----
From: "cody" <
overclck@satx.rr.com>
| Ok...
sooo... on the ABS unit, there are 2 "inputs" and 4 "outputs".
| The outputs
are labeled for each wheel. The inputs.. What about the
|
inputs??? They are labeled Master Cylinder for front right and left
|
rear and for front left and for right rear. So, I would assume I can
|
get some "t-fittings" and some braided lines and connect the master
|
cylinder outputs to the wheel inputs??? If this will work,
that's
what
| I'm gonna do... Gonna run to Napa and get what I need
if you all
think
| this will work...
|
| -Cody
***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 11 Feb 2002 10:00:57
-0600
From: "Willis, Charles E." <
cewillis@TexasChildrensHospital.org>
Subject:
Team3S: RE: 3S-Racers: Sway bar installation
http://www.3sxperformance.com/suspension.aspinstructions
for the rear antisway bar
> My front and rear sway bars have been
shipped!
> Now, all I gotta do is put them in.
> Do any of our
fabulous, helpful reader web sites have sway bar
> installation
>
instructions?
>
> Rich/slow old poop/94 VR4
***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 11 Feb 2002 15:55:12
-0600
From: "Jannusch, Matt" <
mjannusch@marketwatch.com>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: RE: 3S-Racers: Sway bar installation
>
http://www.3sxperformance.com/suspension.asp>
> instructions for the rear antisway bar
The process is somewhat
more complex on AWD cars.
- -Matt
'95 3000GT Spyder
VR4
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 11 Feb 2002 14:30:15
-0800
From: "Pete" <
pbozanich@hotmail.com>
Subject:
Team3S: pre cats
Yesterday I took off the down pipe to gut the precats.
There was only the
one in back. Is there supposed to be one in the front?
Because I couldn't
find it. Its definetly not in the manifold that the front
part of the down
pipe bolts to. The vehicle is a 91 VR4. Ive put on a stillen
down pipe and
borla exhaust. Thanks for your
help.
Pete
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 11 Feb 2002 16:29:39
-0600
From: "Jannusch, Matt" <
mjannusch@marketwatch.com>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: pre cats
> Yesterday I took off the down pipe to gut the
precats. There
> was only the one in back. Is there supposed to be one in
the
> front? Because I couldn't find it. Its definetly not in the
> manifold that the front part of the down pipe bolts to. The
>
vehicle is a 91 VR4. Ive put on a stillen down pipe and
> borla exhaust.
Thanks for your
help.
If you have a Stillen downpipe, then the Stillen pipe eliminated the
front
pre-cat. Its already gone...
- -Matt
'95 3000GT Spyder
VR4
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 11 Feb 2002 23:30:37
+0100
From: "Roger Gerl" <
roger.gerl@bluewin.ch>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: pre cats
The Stillen dp already elimiated the front pre-cat
:-))
> Yesterday I took off the down pipe to gut the precats. There
was only the
> one in back. Is there supposed to be one in the front?
Because I couldn't
> find it. Its definetly not in the manifold that the
front part of the down
> pipe bolts to. The vehicle is a 91 VR4. Ive put
on a stillen down pipe and
> borla exhaust. Thanks for your
help.
Pete
Roger
93'3000GT TT
www.rtec.ch*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 11 Feb 2002 17:50:42
-0600
From: RJM <
rjmsmail@swbell.net>
Subject:
Team3S: Suspension light blinking on 94 3000gt
My ECS/suspension doesn't
seem to be working. It blinks
"touring-sport" constantly.
It seems to do it on the colder days
if that makes any sense. I
am assuming it isn't working: the
connectors are plugged in all the way
above each front strut
so would it blink if a strut or shock went out or
anything else
that was broken in the suspension. Thanks ahead of
time.
Bob
1994 3000gt SL
100,000 miles
***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 11 Feb 2002 17:00:03
-0700
From: "Gabe Simoes" <
stealthdevil@netzero.net>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: Suspension light blinking on 94 3000gt
Mine does the same
thing, except all the time. Seems to be stuck in
sport
mode. I took it to the dealer and they said they would have
to plug in a
code or something. Said it would cost about $70.
-
-----Original Message-----
From:
owner-team3s@team3s.com
[mailto:owner-team3s@team3s.com]On Behalf
Of RJM
Sent: Monday, February
11, 2002 4:51 PM
To:
Team3S@stealth-3000gt.stSubject:
Team3S: Suspension light blinking on 94 3000gt
My ECS/suspension doesn't
seem to be working. It blinks
"touring-sport" constantly.
It seems to do it on the colder days
if that makes any sense. I
am assuming it isn't working: the
connectors are plugged in all the way
above each front strut
so would it blink if a strut or shock went out or
anything else
that was broken in the suspension. Thanks ahead of
time.
Bob
1994 3000gt SL
100,000 miles
***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 12 Feb 2002 01:21:44
+0100
From: "Roger Gerl" <
roger.gerl@bluewin.ch>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Suspension light blinking on 94 3000gt
An SL does have the
elctronic suspension ?? Well, we do not have lots von NA
cars here (about 3
in the whole country).
Regarding the problem, this is often caused by a
faulty connector. The
dealers are damn stupid morons as what they do for $70
is reading the code
and the code will say defective suspension. They will
then hook up the strut
simulator to the connector and then will say that one
strut is shot and you
need a high $$$ new one. But often dissassembling the
strut top, cleaning
the contacts and replacing the plug solves the problem.
On mine, the
contacts where corroded and cleaning it with contact cleaner
solved
everything.
Roger
93'3000GT TT
www.rtec.ch- ----- Original Message
-----
From: "RJM" <
rjmsmail@swbell.net>
To: <
Team3S@stealth-3000gt.st>
Sent:
Tuesday, February 12, 2002 12:50 AM
Subject: Team3S: Suspension light
blinking on 94 3000gt
> My ECS/suspension doesn't seem to be
working. It blinks
> "touring-sport" constantly. It
seems to do it on the colder days
> if that makes any sense. I
am assuming it isn't working: the
> connectors are plugged in all
the way above each front strut
> so would it blink if a strut or shock
went out or anything else
> that was broken in the suspension.
Thanks ahead of time.
> Bob
> 1994 3000gt SL
> 100,000
miles
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 11 Feb 2002 18:45:14
-0600
From: RJM <
rjmsmail@swbell.net>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: Suspension light blinking on 94 3000gt
Thanks!!
I'll recheck
the connectors but I am quite hard on the car and have 4 brand
new tires and
was noticing it doesn't handle/corner quite as well now with the
ECS
apparently not working (it is a harder feeling so maybe it reverted to
sport
mode but I doubt it since it isn't as stiff as when it was in sport
mode,
I
don't think it is in either mode). Maybe I need to unplug
the battery and plug
it in again after inspecting and possibly cleaning the
connectors. Thanks for
the quick responses!!!
Bob
Roger Gerl
wrote:
> An SL does have the elctronic suspension ?? Well, we do not
have lots von NA
> cars here (about 3 in the whole
country).
>
> Regarding the problem, this is often caused by a
faulty connector. The
> dealers are damn stupid morons as what they do for
$70 is reading the code
> and the code will say defective suspension. They
will then hook up the strut
> simulator to the connector and then will say
that one strut is shot and you
> need a high $$$ new one. But often
dissassembling the strut top, cleaning
> the contacts and replacing the
plug solves the problem. On mine, the
> contacts where corroded and
cleaning it with contact cleaner solved
> everything.
>
>
Roger
> 93'3000GT TT
>
www.rtec.ch>
> ----- Original Message
-----
> From: "RJM" <
rjmsmail@swbell.net>
> To: <
Team3S@stealth-3000gt.st>
>
Sent: Tuesday, February 12, 2002 12:50 AM
> Subject: Team3S: Suspension
light blinking on 94 3000gt
>
> > My ECS/suspension doesn't seem
to be working. It blinks
> > "touring-sport"
constantly. It seems to do it on the colder days
> > if that
makes any sense. I am assuming it isn't working: the
>
> connectors are plugged in all the way above each front strut
> >
so would it blink if a strut or shock went out or anything else
> >
that was broken in the suspension. Thanks ahead of time.
> >
Bob
> > 1994 3000gt SL
> > 100,000
miles
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 11 Feb 2002 17:08:56
-0800
From: Michael Gerhard <
gerhard1@llnl.gov>
Subject: Team3S:
Power Bleeder Experience
I finally got to use my Motive Products power
bleeder (
www.motiveproducts.com
). It works great. The only real hassle is attaching
the cap to the master
cylinder. The cap has two J hooks which hang down the
sides of the master
cylinder and connect to one another with a small chain.
Each J hook has a
wing nut on the top side of the cap and when tightened,
the cap seals to the
master cylinder. As we know with our cars, space is a
premium under the hood
and it took me about 15-20 minutes to attach the
cap. Mostly because I kept
getting the chain in the wrong place or dropping
it.
Once installed,
I pumped up air pressure to 15psi and it held for 15-20
minutes. I released
the pressure and added 2 liters of brake fluid to the
tank (it holds 2
liters), closed up the tank, and again pumped up 15psi. I
turned on the car
and proceeded to go from wheel to wheel (RR,LF,LR,LF),
bleeding out the old
fluid. I switched to ATE Super Blue Racing so it was
easy to tell when the
old fluid was flushed (it started coming out blue). I
had changed the
flexible brake lines, thus part of the task was to bleed
the air out. The
fluid pushed out pretty steady. I'm thinking that it was
maybe slower than
the old "brake pedal" method as 15psi pushing is a lot
less than the
pressure the master cylinder can apply. It did make it a one
person job and
went pretty fast. I moved a swapped a couple of rear lines
and bleed the
brakes again, this time to just get the air out. The first
time I pushed
almost a litter through the system and the pressure dropped
from 15psi to
10psi. The second time I only pushed a little fluid out
(100-150 ml) and the
pressure dropped only 1psi, from 15psi to 14psi.
I think this is a great
system. The weakness is the work it takes to get
the cap on. The second time
it took me less time because I knew what I was
doing.
I bought a new
master cylinder cap from Mitsu ($9) and spent about $8 at a
hardware store,
to construct a custom cap which I can just screw on and
then connect to the
tank. I'm working on getting it to seal up as I had to
use some non-standard
piping parts. When I get this cap working, the
process will be a snap: (1)
screw on the cap, and (2) attach the flare
fitting from the tank. Should
take about 1 minute. I will post what it took
to make this custom cap when I
get it working.
Until then, here are some tips for putting the stock cap
on.
(1) Insert both J hooks into the cap and leave the wing nuts almost
at the
ends so the J hooks are as long as they can be.
(2) Tape one
end link of the chain to the J hook which will be closest to
the fender
(drivers side). I used a lot of masking tape. This is one end of
the chain
you won't have to worry about during the installation.
(3) Holding the
cap above the master cylinder, dangle the chain down beside
the master
cylinder on the fender side.
(4) Using a bent wire (I used a piece of 14g
copper electrical wire) with a
small hook on the end, reach down the engine
side of the master cylinder
and under it. Hook the end of the chain you are
dangling.
CAUTION: Make sure you catch the chain above the brake line
which folds
back under the master cylinder. The chain should be directly
under the
aluminum body only. Also, be careful of the brake fluid sensor
wire.
(5) Lower the cap onto the master cylinder and hook the chain to
the
remaining J hook. You want to try to make the chain as short as possible
here. Thus, you might hook it on the 3rd or 4th link, what ever you can
reach.
(6) Tighten the wing nuts. I went back and forth between them to
balance
the load. I had to really wonk on the them to get a good seal
between the
cap the master cylinder.
(7) From there you can pressure
test, etc following the directions for the
system.
-
--------------------------------------------------------------
Michael A.
Gerhard 1991 Mitsubishi 3000GT VR4 Pearl
White
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 11 Feb 2002 20:03:33
-0600
From: "Todd D.Shelton" <
tds@brightok.net>
Subject: Re: Team3S:
RE: 3S-Racers: Sway bar installation
- -----Original
Message-----
From: Jannusch, Matt <
mjannusch@marketwatch.com>
To:
'Willis, Charles E.' <
cewillis@TexasChildrensHospital.org>;
Team3S@stealth-3000gt.st <
Team3S@stealth-3000gt.st>
Date:
Monday, February 11, 2002 3:55 PM
Subject: RE: Team3S: RE: 3S-Racers: Sway
bar installation
>>
http://www.3sxperformance.com/suspension.asp>>
>>
instructions for the rear antisway bar
>
>The process is somewhat
more complex on AWD cars.
-
-----------------------------------------------------------------------
You
can say that again. Major components have
to be dropped!
BTW -
this vendor and nearly all of our (3S specific)
vendors need to make a major
adjustment on their
Tein prices. They now list for $1490 MSRP
with
PillowBall mounts according to Tein.com
I found a group buy for
$1435 shipped!
I probably wouldn't even mention it since some
(like
DR) are at $1550 - only a bit overpriced but
I've seen one of our vendors
trying to rip us for
$2000 on the exact same setup!
They should at
least ask you to bend over ......
- - tds
http://www.brightok.net/~tds***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 11 Feb 2002 18:08:00
-0800
From: Damon Rachell <
damonr@mefas.com>
Subject: Team3S:
clanking in drivetrain...
I've got this interesting problem and am lost
for ideas. Symptoms:
Hard acceleration in first and sometimes 2nd,
there's this repetative,
rhythmic clunking that seems like it's RMP
dependant in the rear. It's
loud! It sounds like it's coming
from the driveshaft, differential
area, but I don't know why it's in 1st
mostly, and only under very hard
acceleration. It happens everytime
that I accelerate.
Any ideas? I know that my driveshaft Universal
joints are not in the
best of shape, and it seemed to happen when I replaced
the center
support bearings. I can't seem to find any problems from
the outside,
and I've tried rotating the driveshaft (each section
separately) and
nothing helps. any ideas are more than wecome
regardless of the
rediculous nature.
Damon
***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 11 Feb 2002 20:08:35
-0600
From: "Todd D.Shelton" <
tds@brightok.net>
Subject: Re: Team3S:
Sway bar installation 2
- -----Original Message-----
From: Jannusch,
Matt <
mjannusch@marketwatch.com>
To:
'Merritt' <
merritt@cedar-rapids.net>;
Team3S@stealth-3000gt.st<
Team3S@stealth-3000gt.st>
Date:
Monday, February 11, 2002 9:32 AM
Subject: RE: Team3S: Sway bar
installation
>> Do any of our fabulous, helpful reader web sites
have sway
>> bar installation instructions?
>
>Heh, have
fun! Jack up the car as far as possible within safety limits,
or
>put it on a hoist. It is easier to get those things out when you
have a
lot
>of room to finagle them around to get them out. I
haven't done it on a
3/S,
>but on the DSM it was reasonably easy with
it high off the ground.
>
-
---------------------------------------------------------------------
After
speaking with an installer who knows a lot about these,
I've been convinced
that it's imperative to use a lift - seems
you can really screw up the
install if you try to do this in your garage -
suspension needs to be
completely unloaded (both wheels) and
level etc
- - tds
http://www.brightok.net/~tds***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 11 Feb 2002 18:11:45
-0800
From: "Gross, Erik" <
erik.gross@intel.com>
Subject:
Team3S: Tein Coilovers WAS: Sway bar installation
So has anyone
looked at the HKS HiperDamper coilovers? I'm not going to
replace my
suspension until the stock components wear out, but looking down
the
road... US parts availability (for rebuilds) seems to be a
major
selling point for the HKS, unless Tein has changed something
recently.
- --Erik
> BTW - this vendor and nearly all of our
(3S specific)
> vendors need to make a major adjustment on their
>
Tein prices. They now list for $1490 MSRP with
> PillowBall mounts
according to Tein.com
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 11 Feb 2002 21:13:33
-0500
From: "Darren Schilberg" <
dschilberg@pobox.com>
Subject: RE:
Team3S: RE: 3S-Racers: Sway bar installation
Specify which Tein that
is? Those of us without ECS and with power
sunroofs can not use
anything for a coilover other than the Tein HA as I
have found out.
-
--Flash!
1995 VR-4 (no ECS, power sunroof and stock suspension)
-
-----Original Message-----
From: Todd D.Shelton
Sent: Monday, February 11,
2002 21:04
BTW - this vendor and nearly all of our (3S
specific)
vendors need to make a major adjustment on their
Tein
prices. They now list for $1490 MSRP with
PillowBall mounts according
to Tein.com
I found a group buy for $1435 shipped!
I probably
wouldn't even mention it since some
(like DR) are at $1550 - only a bit
overpriced but
I've seen one of our vendors trying to rip us for
$2000 on
the exact same setup!
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 11 Feb 2002 20:21:31
-0600
From: "Todd D.Shelton" <
tds@brightok.net>
Subject: Re: Team3S:
RE: Tein
- -----Original Message-----
From: Darren Schilberg <
dschilberg@pobox.com>
To:
Team3S@stealth-3000gt.st <
Team3S@stealth-3000gt.st>
Date:
Monday, February 11, 2002 8:15 PM
Subject: RE: Team3S: RE: 3S-Racers: Sway
bar installation
>Specify which Tein that is? Those of us
without ECS and with power
>sunroofs can not use anything for a coilover
other than the Tein HA as I
>have found out.
-
----------------------------------------------------------------------------
Tein
lists it as:
3000 GT(AWD Turbo) 91-98 Z16A HA DSR00-K1SS1 12 671 8 448
1490
W/Pillowball Upper Mount
That would be type HA *with* Pillball
upper mount.
I told Matt (DR) about the MSRP listed at Tein.com
and he
seemed suprised and unaware of that.
I sent him to Tein.com and he knows
now ......
- - tds
http://www.brightok.net/~tds***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 11 Feb 2002 19:25:57
-0700
From: "Who Knows" <
wapiti67@attbi.com>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: Tein Coilovers
I just recently purchased a set of TEIN - HA
coilovers
with pillowballs for the total of $1380.00 shipped to Colorado.This
kit was
for a 1992 Stealth RT/TT. The kit number I ordered was taken from the
TEIN
online site.(
www.TEIN.com)
I
purchased them from(
www.ImportDirectuUSA).comlocated
in ARIZONA.
I dealt with John at 1-877-988-9284 ext
13.
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 11 Feb 2002 18:25:26
-0800
From: "fastmax" <
fastmax@cox.net>
Subject: Re: Team3S:
RE: 3S-Racers: Sway bar installation
That would be the HA setup
!!!!
I wish the hell you'd drove that care out here so I could take a
look
at the problem ---- I can't beleive it would be that difficult to
solve.
Jim
Berry
===========================================
- ----- Original
Message -----
From: "Darren Schilberg" <
dschilberg@pobox.com>
To: <
Team3S@stealth-3000gt.st>
Sent:
Monday, February 11, 2002 6:13 PM
Subject: RE: Team3S: RE: 3S-Racers: Sway
bar installation
| Specify which Tein that is? Those of us without
ECS and with power
| sunroofs can not use anything for a coilover other than
the Tein HA as I
| have found out.
|
| --Flash!
| 1995 VR-4 (no
ECS, power sunroof and stock suspension)
|
| -----Original
Message-----
| From: Todd D.Shelton
| Sent: Monday, February 11, 2002
21:04
|
| BTW - this vendor and nearly all of our (3S
specific)
| vendors need to make a major adjustment on their
| Tein
prices. They now list for $1490 MSRP with
| PillowBall mounts according
to Tein.com
|
| I found a group buy for $1435 shipped!
|
| I
probably wouldn't even mention it since some
| (like DR) are at $1550 - only
a bit overpriced but
| I've seen one of our vendors trying to rip us for
|
$2000 on the exact same setup!
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 11 Feb 2002 20:31:26
-0600
From: Merritt <
merritt@cedar-rapids.net>
Subject:
Team3S: Re: 3S-Racers: clanking in drivetrain...
I have a custom catback
exhaust, and it clunked like crazy on a track, but
was docile and quiet
around town. All the stresses and g-forces were too
much for it, so we had to
weld in another bracket to shut it up. It occurs
to me that perhaps you upset
the delicate balance of your exhaust whilst
fooling around with the diff, and
you are hearing the pipes banging around.
Rich/slow old
poop
>Hard acceleration in first and sometimes 2nd, there's this
repetative,
>rhythmic clunking that seems like it's RMP dependant in the
rear. It's
>loud! It sounds like it's coming from the
driveshaft, differential
>area, but I don't know why it's in 1st mostly,
and only under very hard
>acceleration. It happens everytime that I
accelerate. and it seemed to
happen when I replaced the center
>support bearings.
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 11 Feb 2002 18:41:38
-0800
From: Damon Rachell <
damonr@mefas.com>
Subject: Re: Team3S:
Re: 3S-Racers: clanking in drivetrain...
I know it's not the
exhaust. Doesn't sound like metal to metal rattle.
It does
sound like thumping. like constantly hitting the bump stop on
the
shocks with each rotation of the driveshaft (just to get an idea of
the
sound). You can feel the vibration through the stock seats. It's
pretty severe.
Merritt wrote:
> I have a custom catback
exhaust, and it clunked like crazy on a track, but
> was docile and quiet
around town. All the stresses and g-forces were too
> much for it, so we
had to weld in another bracket to shut it up. It occurs
> to me that
perhaps you upset the delicate balance of your exhaust whilst
> fooling
around with the diff, and you are hearing the pipes banging around.
>
> Rich/slow old poop
>
>>Hard acceleration in first and
sometimes 2nd, there's this repetative,
>>rhythmic clunking that seems
like it's RMP dependant in the rear. It's
>>loud! It
sounds like it's coming from the driveshaft, differential
>>area, but
I don't know why it's in 1st mostly, and only under very hard
>>acceleration. It happens everytime that I accelerate. and it
seemed to
>>
> happen when I replaced the center
>
>>support bearings.
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 11 Feb 2002 21:42:01
-0500
From: "Darren Schilberg" <
dschilberg@pobox.com>
Subject: RE:
Team3S: RE: 3S-Racers: Sway bar installation
I look on Eibach page.
UP TO 1995 VR-4.
I look on Tein page. UP TO 1995 VR-4.
I email
Eibach and Tein. Same response.
Curt Gendron said he put a Ground
Control (I think) system on his but
had to chop off about two turns of spring
coils in the back.
>From what I was told by the spring mfgs,
(paraphrase) "When Mitsu
switched from the manual to the power sunroof they
changed the size
and/or placement of the rear spring perch and a setup for a
non-turbo
car will not work and the setup for a manual sunroof/ECS car will
not
work."
I can probably find the email. And at $1,000+
(Eibach, Ground Control,
etc.) I don't feel like finding out what they are
telling me. I know
the Tein HA will work so I just need to keep my eyes
set on that.
If you find a 1995 VR-4 with power sunroof and a set of
stock,
off-the-shelf, out-of-the-catalog coilovers THEN I will believe
you.
- --Flash!
- -----Original Message-----
From: fastmax
[mailto:fastmax@cox.net]
Sent: Monday, February 11, 2002
21:25
That would be the HA setup !!!!
I wish the hell you'd
drove that care out here so I could take a look
at the problem ---- I can't
beleive it would be that difficult to solve.
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 11 Feb 2002 21:49:00
-0500
From: "Darren Schilberg" <
dschilberg@pobox.com>
Subject: RE:
Team3S: RE: Tein
Thanks. Good price. Not installed
though. I think the $2,000 price
was including installation at GT
Pro. Find someone to do it for
$200-$400 at the local brake/suspension
shop and you've got a good deal.
That would be total price of near
$1,650-$1,850. Still a little better
than $2,000 installed.
-
--Flash!
- -----Original Message-----
From: Todd D.Shelton
Sent:
Monday, February 11, 2002 21:22
Tein lists it as:
3000
GT(AWD Turbo) 91-98 Z16A HA DSR00-K1SS1 12 671 8 448 1490
W/Pillowball Upper
Mount
That would be type HA *with* Pillball upper mount.
***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 11 Feb 2002 19:31:58
-0800
From: "fastmax" <
fastmax@cox.net>
Subject: Re: Team3S:
RE: 3S-Racers: Sway bar installation
I'm talking about finding a solution
other than just buying a product
from some manufacturer --- e.g. modify the
bracket !!!! That's why I
said it shouldn't be that difficult to solve the
problem, rather than just
liveing with
it.
Jim
Berry
==============================================
- ----- Original
Message -----
From: "Darren Schilberg" <
dschilberg@pobox.com>
|
| If
you find a 1995 VR-4 with power sunroof and a set of stock,
| off-the-shelf,
out-of-the-catalog coilovers THEN I will believe you.
|
| --Flash!
|
| -----Original Message-----
| From: fastmax [mailto:fastmax@cox.net]
| Sent: Monday, February 11, 2002 21:25
|
| That would be the
HA setup !!!!
|
| I wish the hell you'd drove that care out here so I
could take a look
| at the problem ---- I can't beleive it would be that
difficult to solve.
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 11 Feb 2002 23:01:03
-0500
From: "Darren Schilberg" <
dschilberg@pobox.com>
Subject: RE:
Team3S: RE: 3S-Racers: Sway bar installation
Rich Merritt was going to go
with Penske shocks (thus solving the
problem) but found it was too costly or
would take too long for a
one-off as a test. I think. Clarify if
not. Again, if you start doing
custom things then you will never be
able to sell it or remove them and
put on stock stuff to sell it. This
is still the daily driver over
potholes, speedbumps, and about 20k a year in
mileage.
- -----Original Message-----
From: fastmax
[mailto:fastmax@cox.net]
Sent: Monday, February 11, 2002
22:32
I'm talking about finding a solution other than just buying a
product
from some manufacturer --- e.g. modify the bracket !!!! That's why
I
said it shouldn't be that difficult to solve the problem, rather
than
just
liveing with it.
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 12 Feb 2002 00:00:26
US/Central
From:
tds@brightok.netSubject: RE: Team3S: RE:
Tein
> Thanks. Good price. Not installed though. I
think the $2,000 price
> was including installation at GT Pro. Find
someone to do it for
> $200-$400 at the local brake/suspension shop and
you've got a good deal.
> That would be total price of near
$1,650-$1,850. Still a little better
> than $2,000
installed.
>
> --Flash!
-
-------------------------------------------
No - that was from a shop up
in the NE US.
That was not installed - that was mailorder.
Install
is not very difficult since you
entirely remove the stock setup and
springs
and replace everything. You don't even
need a spring
compressor unless you want
to remove the stock springs.
If you look
in the list archives - you will see that
he advertised them right here months
and
months ago! Looks like he still has them!
Then about 10
days ago he tried the same
on 3SI.org and after getting the business
from
owners that know better he ended
up dropping the price but still not
even
MSRP.
I think he got stuck with this setup and
paid more for
it months ago?
- - tds
http://www.brightok.net/~tds-
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------------------------------
End of Team3S: 3000GT &
Stealth V1
#751
***************************************
