Team3S: 3000GT & Stealth Sunday, February 10
2002 Volume 01 : Number
750
----------------------------------------------------------------------
Date:
Sat, 9 Feb 2002 22:36:53 -0600
From: "Eric Cheek" <
echeek@cox-internet.com>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: Im sure gonna ruin this machine.
Humm .. well the electric
one I'm looking at is the Apex AVC-R. I've looked
on the web and in all my
"VR4" mail .. I keep it all btw ;) .. Anyhow Brian
at
www.gtpro.com quoted me a great price ... so you
might try him
gtpro@netzero.net. And
there is a TON on info on it in the archives, such as
what initial settings
to use etc. Also Brian said they would back it up with
"hardcore technical
support"
Eric Cheek, 92 VR4
- -----Original Message-----
From:
owner-team3s@team3s.com
[mailto:owner-team3s@team3s.com]On Behalf
Of Aaron Kealey
Sent: Saturday,
February 09, 2002 7:12 PM
To:
team3s@stealth-3000gt.stSubject:
Team3S: Im sure gonna ruin this machine.
Hey Guys,
I just threw
together a bleeder valve boost controller using an SMC flow
control valve and
installed it in my cabin. (flip up the cover on the aux.
lighter socket and
there it is. Pretty slick eh? -thanks for the info Jeff-)
Trouble is it
doesnt work. I get a crazy spike in pressure right when i get
on the
throttle. If i turn it down to where it initally only spikes to
12-13psi, it
quickly settles back down close to the stock 9psi
(1993).
QESTION:
Before i ruin my car with my cheapo, homemade
gadgetry, could someone tell
me what a good ELECTRONIC BOOST CONTROLLER would
be. They range so wide in
price, I dont really know which features would just
be a waste for me. Is
fuzzy logic worth the increased price? Do you need a
dyno to tune/program
the high end ones? Keep in mind I'm no pro-racer
here.
Keep 'em spooled,
Aaron
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Sun, 10 Feb 2002 01:06:10
-0600
From: "Eric Cheek" <
echeek@cox-internet.com>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: Im sure gonna ruin this machine.
Sup Darren, Here is what he
had e-mailed me,
"We can beat them at $449.00 plus back it up with
hardcore technical support
to do your install and tuning.. We have a small
parts listing, but our new
site will be very robust and have everything on it
plus MUCH more. Let me
know if this works for you.."
I think I'll be
purchasing one from him in the next couple of weeks. I've
searched the net
high and low and the best price b4 his was 459.00 from
www.rotormotorsports.com .I did read
a thread in the archives for a site
that was suppose to have it listed under
"group buys" for 349 .. I checked
the site(
http://www.ecarshops.com/Merchant/merchant.mv?Screen=CTGY&Store_Code=TM&Category_Code=groupbuys
) and the price listed was 459.00 with free shipping ...
Ya, bang for the
buck this looks to be the best one to go with .. and I've
found a ton of
information in the archives so hopefully I can get it set up
with out blowing
the motor ;) BTW have you thought of where to mount the
headpiece? I've
thought of building a "Pod" that will sit on top of the
turbo/oil/temp
tri-bumps .... I've also though about just velcroing about
the ac display
.... Id like for it to be easy to see, and not detract from
the looks of the
interior ... so well see ... Trying to get a few things
fixed up b4 August. I
don't want to be embarrassed at the meet ;)
Eric Cheek, 92 VR4
-
-----Original Message-----
From: Darren Schilberg
[mailto:dschilberg@pobox.com]
Sent: Thursday, May 09, 2002 11:23 PM
To:
echeek@cox-internet.comSubject:
RE: Team3S: Im sure gonna ruin this machine.
Eric,
What
price? That is the only one I want. I like how it can replay
in
those two analog gauges stuff like RPM, etc. I have seen it for as
low
as $400 I think. Can't remember.
- --Flash!
-
-----Original Message-----
From:
owner-team3s@team3s.com
[mailto:owner-team3s@team3s.com] On Behalf
Of Eric Cheek
Sent: Saturday,
February 09, 2002 23:37
To: 'Team3S' (E-mail)
Subject: RE: Team3S: Im sure
gonna ruin this machine.
Humm .. well the electric one I'm looking at is
the Apex AVC-R. I've
looked
on the web and in all my "VR4" mail .. I keep
it all btw ;) .. Anyhow
Brian
at
www.gtpro.com quoted me a great price ... so you
might try him
gtpro@netzero.net. And
there is a TON on info on it in the archives,
such as
what initial
settings to use etc. Also Brian said they would back it up
with
"hardcore
technical support"
Eric Cheek, 92 VR4
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Sun, 10 Feb 2002 11:06:26
-0600
From: "cody" <
overclck@satx.rr.com>
Subject:
Team3S: Mushy Brakes
Problem cropped up over the past couple days.
My brake pedal went from
mushy to almost non-existent. It was great.
then all of a sudden, the
brakes began to feel mushy. I have brand new
rotors, pads and SS lines.
I had a brake shop check all the outboard
fittings, and everything is
fine.
What happens, is the
first time I press on the brakes, the car slows
down, and will stop quickly,
but the pedal is very mushy. if I take my
foot off the brake, and
immediately depress it again, the pedal is much
more difficult to push, and
if I do it a third consecutive time, it is
very stiff and stops the car very
fast (just like when I first installed
the new brake lines and such). I
had the fluid flushed and bled just
the other day, but since then, the brake
light came on, and I added
fluid. That was two days ago. Now, all
of a sudden today, it is acting
like I described above.. My thoughts
are brake slave cylinder, but I'm
not sure.
This seems to
be getting progressively worse over the past week and a
half now that I think
about it.
Any clues where to look first.
-
-Cody
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Sun, 10 Feb 2002 17:18:43
+0000
From: "glynn birds" <
glynn_birds@hotmail.com>
Subject:
Team3S: Covertion of combination lights to UK spec
I've just imported a
GTO to the UK from Japan. I need to install separate
front sidelights and so
need to remove that function from the combination
lights. I have installed
the new lights but the sidelight goes out when
indicating. This is fine for
the combination light. I guess that circuit is
switched off when indicating.
I know you would not have come across this,
but could anyone please tell me
where this takes place and how I could
eliminate it.
Many
Thanks,
Glynn Birds
1994 Black Non Turbo Auto GTO
***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Sun, 10 Feb 2002 10:10:24
-0800
From: "dakken" <
dougusmagnus@attbi.com>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Mushy Brakes
I would check your vacuum hoses going to your
brake booster. Make sure they
are on tight and not cracked or too
hard. If those are good then check your
brake booster itself.
Here are the steps out of the repair manual.
1. Run the engine for
one or two minutes and then stop it.
2. Step on the breke pedal
several times with normal pressure.
If the pedal dresses
fully the first time but gradually becomes higher
when depressed succeeding
times, the booster is operating properly.
If the pedal
height remains unchanged, the booster is faulty.
3. With the engine
stopped, step on the brake pedal several times with the
same pressure to make
sure the pedal height will not change.
Then step on the
brake pedal and start the engine.
If the pedal moves
doward slightly, the booster is in good condition.
If there is no change, the
booster is faulty.
4. With the engine running, step on the brake
pedal and then stop the
engine.
Hold the pedal
depressed for 30 seconds. If the pedal height does not
change, the
booster is in good condition. If the pedal rises, the booster
is
faulty.
Doug
92 Stealth TT
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Sun, 10 Feb 2002 12:20:41
-0800 (PST)
From: menalteed <
menalteed@yahoo.com>
Subject:
Team3S: Water line eye bolts, Turbo
I'm in the process, "at a snails
pace", I should add
in changing my turbos on my Dear 92 Stealth
TT.
I'm not a ace mechanic, more like a determined
tradesman who couldn't bring
myself to pay
what the dealer wanted for this repair, although he
was kind
enough to point out the problem.
I have found tremendous help on our web
site, but
little snags do crop up. When I removed the water
cooling eye
bolts it looked like marking them in and
out didn't seem necessary . My
almost new turbo is
nesting back in it's comfortable new home and
now
while getting ready to replace the water lines I
notice that
the
eye of one of the bolts is slightly larger then
the other, so I ask, is
this the in line or out line?
More to the point does that larger eye sit
closer to
the block or the radiator? A further question should
be when I
torque these bolts down does that place the
eye in the correct direction to
pass the water
through. I will be using all new crush washers.
Peter,
Seattle Wa.
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Sun, 10 Feb 2002 15:28:58
-0500
From: "Jerry B." <
scorpman@optonline.net>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Mushy Brakes
Here is Something to look at,, I had a car in my
shop the other day,,(
Nissan Maxima) Came in for a break job. (Front and
Rear). Brake Flush the
works ya know. Well after the work was accomplished we
pulled the car out of
hte bays and same problems as you ahve descrobed.
(first push almost
nothing,, second alittle more and third ok). After about
an hour of looking
hte car over i had found that the right caliper was
faulty, ( it was pushing
out but stopping at a certain point). now it was
hard to detect becasue you
could see that it was working but not completely
as it should.. after
changing hte caliper and bleeding hte brake system again
the car was fine...
Rec-- taking it back to the shop
where you had the work done and having
them check your calipers to make sure
they are working properly,, Like I
said they will appear to b eworking fine
but will not press out correctly..
it will make contact with pad but have no
REAL pressure behind it..
Hope this helps you out,, any other questions
feel free to ask about the
braking system...
Jerry B. 92 Stealth ES
& 93 Stealth RT/TT
- ----- Original Message -----
From: "dakken"
<
dougusmagnus@attbi.com>
To:
"cody" <
overclck@satx.rr.com>;
"Team3S" <
team3s@mail.speedtoys.com>
Sent:
Sunday, February 10, 2002 1:10 PM
Subject: Re: Team3S: Mushy
Brakes
> I would check your vacuum hoses going to your brake
booster. Make sure
they
> are on tight and not cracked or too
hard. If those are good then check
your
> brake booster
itself. Here are the steps out of the repair manual.
>
>
1. Run the engine for one or two minutes and then stop it.
>
>
2. Step on the breke pedal several times with normal
pressure.
> If the pedal dresses fully the first
time but gradually becomes higher
> when depressed succeeding times, the
booster is operating properly.
> If the pedal
height remains unchanged, the booster is faulty.
>
> 3. With
the engine stopped, step on the brake pedal several times with
the
>
same pressure to make sure the pedal height will not
change.
> Then step on the brake pedal and start
the engine.
> If the pedal moves doward slightly,
the booster is in good condition.
> If there is no change, the booster is
faulty.
>
> 4. With the engine running, step on the brake
pedal and then stop the
> engine.
> Hold the
pedal depressed for 30 seconds. If the pedal height does not
>
change, the booster is in good condition. If the pedal rises, the
booster
> is faulty.
>
>
> Doug
> 92 Stealth
TT
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Sun, 10 Feb 2002 14:35:30
-0600
From: "Jannusch, Matt" <
mjannusch@marketwatch.com>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: Water line eye bolts, Turbo
> My almost new turbo is
nesting back in it's
> comfortable new home and now while getting
>
ready to replace the water lines I notice that
> the eye of one of the
bolts is slightly larger
> then the other, so I ask, is this the in
line
> or out line? More to the point does that larger
> eye sit
closer to the block or the radiator?
It doesn't really matter. If I
remember right, the sizes of the fittings
(the part the bolts go through on
the water lines) are the same. If they
are different in some way on
your car, the larger one should only fit one of
the two fittings.
>
A further question should be when I torque
> these bolts down does that
place the
> eye in the correct direction to pass the
> water
through. I will be using all new
> crush washers.
The fittings are
called "banjo fittings". The inside of the banjo fitting
is machined
out so that the water/oil or whatever will flow around the
circumference of
the fitting and to the bolt hole. Orientation doesn't
matter as much as
the proper torque on the bolt.
- -Matt
'95 3000GT Spyder
VR4
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Sun, 10 Feb 2002 21:19:22
-0800 (PST)
From: raul cinelli <
raulcinelli@yahoo.com>
Subject:
Team3S: NEWBIE need help
> Hi, my name is Raul Cinelli, 1 year ago I
contacted
> you with my first question and after that, I have
>
been
> "disconected" from the net, due to personal
>
problems.
> (I am sorry about my english, I speak spanish).
> I live
in Argentina, South America, and there are
> only a few 3000 GT around so
nobody knows a lot
about this cars.
> Mine is a 1995 mitsubishi 3000 GT
VR4. withe pearl.
>
> The problem started yesterday. I was
traveling in a
> freeway and decided to go down to 3rd gear and
push
> the throtle to the 6500 revs, after that, I switched
> to 4
gear and 2 or 3 seconds after that, I noticed
> that the car turned off
for a second and then came
> back inmediately, 2 or 3 seconds after that,
the
> problem came back but this time it was clearly that
> the car
will turn off definitely so I put it on the
> side of the freeway and at
the time it was going
> slowly, the engine was failing and then turned
off.
> I tryied to start it again, and the symptoms I found
>
was:
> - the car started again, but inmediately start
> failing and
turned off. This occured several times,
always the same.
> - If I
pushed the throtle a lot more, the car kept
> running for a few seconds,
but inmediately after I
> stoped to push the throtle a lot, it went
off.
> - During this start and turn off thing, I noticed
> that when
I slow down the revs, inmediately it
sounds
> like it was going to turn
off, at that moment, it
> was a BLACK fume coming from the
exhaust.
> - Also, when the revs go down, the Turbos gauge
> started
to go up, a lot. When I pushed the throtle a
> little more, the gauge went
down a little, and the
> same all the time.
> - I waited for an hour
or two, and after that, I
> tryed again to start the car. The same
exactly
symptoms was found, BUT, the engine kept running for a
little more
time without turning off, but the same
symptoms appeared, the revs went UP
and DOWN second
after second even with the throtle free, I mean, I did
not
push the throtle at all, and I saw the revs went
up
> and down , (up to
3000 and down to 1500).
> When the revs went to 1500 it sounds like it
was
going to turn off, and then, whne it goes up to 2500
it sounds good,
like if there was no problem. The
gauge act exactly the same as in the
freeway, when the
revs went down, the gauge went up, and vice versa.
>
> Can you please help me with this problem ?
> Please, let me know
what you think and what parts
> you think I may need to replace and if you
know
their
> prices it would help me a lot.
>
>
Thanks,
>
> Raul Cinelli
> 95 Mitsubishi 3000 GT VR4
>
withe pearl
Argentina
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
End of Team3S: 3000GT &
Stealth V1
#750
***************************************