Team3S: 3000GT & Stealth Saturday, February 9 2002
Volume 01 : Number
749
----------------------------------------------------------------------
Date:
Fri, 8 Feb 2002 18:09:06 -0800
From: "Pete" <
pbozanich@hotmail.com>
Subject:
Team3S: gutting the precats
I have a 91 VR4 that Ive installed a stillen
down pipe and borla exhaust. I
live in California, which I smoged the car
last month, I won"t have to smog
it for 2 years. I kept the original down
pipe and big cat, I will put it
back on the car when it needs to be smoged
again. If I gut the pre cats
would that mess up the emmissions when I put
back the original down pipe and
big cat? I want to gut them but not at the
sake of not being able to smog
the car
again.
thanks,
Pete
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 08 Feb 2002 18:09:40
-0800
From: Damon Rachell <
damonr@mefas.com>
Subject: Re: Team3S:
gutting the precats
You shouldn't have a problem. The key is to
keep the car running while
waiting in line. The whole purpose of the
precats is to heat up first
before the main cat can reach functioning
temp. The precats, being
right after the turbo heat up almost
immediately, therefore, reducing
start up emissions. As long as you
keep the stock cat and put it on for
the smog check you shouldn't have a
problem
This is why I've got a gutted main cat, complete main cat, and
gutted
precats (and I'm too cheap to buy a DP).
Pete
wrote:
> I have a 91 VR4 that Ive installed a stillen down pipe and
borla exhaust. I
> live in California, which I smoged the car last month,
I won"t have to smog
> it for 2 years. I kept the original down pipe and
big cat, I will put it
> back on the car when it needs to be smoged again.
If I gut the pre cats
> would that mess up the emmissions when I put back
the original down pipe and
> big cat? I want to gut them but not at the
sake of not being able to smog
> the car
again. thanks,
>
Pete
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 8 Feb 2002 20:17:29
-0800 (PST)
From: menalteed <
menalteed@yahoo.com>
Subject:
Team3S: Turbocharger oil feed line and return line
Is it always important
to change the lines when
changing turbocharger or can they be cleaned
and
reused?
Peter 1992 TT Stealth
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Sat, 9 Feb 2002 01:09:10
-0600
From: "Jannusch, Matt" <
mjannusch@marketwatch.com>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: Turbocharger oil feed line and return line
> Is it always
important to change the lines when
> changing turbocharger or can they be
cleaned and
> reused?
The feeds are usually good, since they get
cooler/filtered oil pumped
through them. The returns can get gunky if
the owners of the car like to
beat on the car hard, pull right into the
driveway, and turn it off. It can
bake some of the oil in the turbo and
the gunk collects in the return lines.
Personally, my car even with
"aggressive" driving on the way home and then
going easy on it the last 1/4
mile on city streets had exactly zero deposits
in the return
lines.
You might be able to clean them with a flexible brush of some sort
(a
test-tube cleaning brush would probably work well), but there's a
section
that's ridged that might be tough to clean. I'd say it depends
on how dirty
they are. If they are already clean, then leave them
alone.
Use new gaskets on both ends, and don't overtorque the
bolts. The spec is
something really low like 3-5 ft/lbs. A little
flange/gasket sealant helps
keep those from developing leaks later. Put
the return line on the front
turbo before you install the turbo onto the
manifold, otherwise it is nearly
impossible to bolt up the return line to the
turbo with the motor mount in
the way.
- -Matt
'95 3000GT Spyder
VR4
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Sat, 9 Feb 2002 04:24:35
-0500
From: "Darren Schilberg" <
dschilberg@pobox.com>
Subject: RE:
Team3S: Turbocharger oil feed line and return line
How about a "gunk"
cleaner for the turbo oil lines? I know Amsoil has
something like this
as I just used it yesterday to help clean all the
cruddy oil off the inside
of the engine. However, it warns that once
you put the quart of liquid
in the engine to not drive it but only to
rev the engine for 15
minutes. Maybe it does *such* a good job cleaning
that it leaves some
parts.
And no I didn't look at the turbo lines before and after I ran
this
cleaner through there. I was halfway hoping of driving around
the
streets to get the turbos and oil cooler working so this cleaner
would
get in there and clean out any coked oil in the lines. Maybe the
trick
is to put half a bottle in and rev some and drain the oil then put
in
half a bottle and some brand new oil and rev some more. If you
are
finicky then you can wait until the fluid draining out is
relatively
clear and that will mean you have a good bit of the old stuff out
of the
way. Or just drive for 500-1,000 miles and change the oil out so
that
you are sure it gets through the turbos and oil cooler.
-
--Flash!
1995 VR-4
- -----Original Message-----
From: Jannusch,
Matt
Sent: Saturday, February 09, 2002 02:09
The feeds are
usually good, since they get cooler/filtered oil pumped
through them.
The returns can get gunky if the owners of the car like
to beat on the car
hard, pull right into the driveway, and turn it off. It
can bake some
of the oil in the turbo and the gunk collects in the
return
lines.
Personally, my car even with "aggressive" driving on the
way home and
then going easy on it the last 1/4 mile on city streets had
exactly zero
depositsin the return lines.
You might be able to clean
them with a flexible brush of some sort (a
test-tube cleaning brush would
probably work well), but there's a
section that's ridged that might be tough
to clean. I'd say it depends on how
dirty they are. If they are
already clean, then leave them alone.
Use new gaskets on both ends, and
don't overtorque the bolts. The spec
is something really low like 3-5
ft/lbs. A little flange/gasket sealant
helps keep those from developing
leaks later. Put the return line on the
front turbo before you install
the turbo onto the manifold, otherwise it is
nearly impossible to bolt up the
return line to the turbo with the motor mount
in the way.
***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Sat, 09 Feb 2002 08:42:31
EST
From:
ThorHolth@aol.comSubject: Team3S: Re:
cracked wheel repair
five years ago, I cracked both left side wheels in
my saab, which were alloy wheels. I called Precision Wheel Service in
Branford, Connecticut, and they were able to weld a new bead on nearly all the
way around the rim. The guy that runs this place now (Erikkson) is the son
of the guy that invented the alloy wheel repair process, so they know what
they're doing. Give them a call.I remember that the repair was about $100
per wheel. Far less than a new one.
www.precisionwheelservice.com1-800-fix-bend
For
those of you with peeling chrome wheels, they even repair that too.
hope it works out.
- -Thor (1991 R/T Turbo)
***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Sat, 9 Feb 2002 09:55:28
-0500
From: "bdtrent" <
bdtrent@netzero.net>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: Oil line, front Turbo
Darren,
I replaced the return
line/oil pan gasket twice, after installing new
turbos, before I was
successfull in preventing a slight leak in this
area.
Regards,
DaveT/92TT
- ----- Original Message
-----
From: "Darren Schilberg" <
dschilberg@pobox.com>
To:
"'Team3S'" <
Team3S@stealth-3000gt.st>
Sent:
Friday, February 08, 2002 8:41 PM
Subject: RE: Team3S: Oil line, front
Turbo
I just changed my oil today and noticed the oil drips/stains
underneath
on the oil pan. I looked up and think it is coming from the
return oil
line from the front turbo. Is this common? Now that I
look at it I
want to wrap it in insulation and heat wrap tape and fun things
like
that.
Also, I think the transfer case is leaking at the seam but
only under
hard idling or hard track use (I had to idle high for 20 minutes
so
sitting still like that it got to drip exactly 5 times on the
ground).
The drops are like Budweiser and I don't know what RedLine
synthetic
tranny fluid is supposed to look like after 20k miles. I'm
not sure if
it was possibly some oil that I spilled from above that made its
way
down to that side of the engine.
... and I thought the top side of
the engines were crowded but up around
the oil filter and stuff is just as
bad.
- --Flash!
1995 VR-4
- -----Original Message-----
From:
Jannusch, Matt
Sent: Friday, February 08, 2002 13:43
Is there
something wrong with your feed line? It is usually the return
lines
that have problems (if any).
Make sure you use new copper crush washers
on all the feed line
connections
at the banjo fittings.
***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Sat, 09 Feb 2002 09:58:18
-0500
From: Mike <
mike21b@dejazzd.com>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: Re: cracked wheel repair
Well, yours was the first one in favor
of "fix it" as opposed to "trash it".
I appreciate everone's response,
though! Thanks to all who answered. If any of you browse the parts wanted in
3si, then you know how scarce our wheels are.
I have 12 wheels:
8
swept spoke 17" Stealth (one set on the car now)
4 18" indented spoke chrome
VR4
what to do, what to do..................
ThorHolth@aol.com wrote:
> five
years ago, I cracked both left side wheels in my saab, which were alloy
wheels. I called Precision Wheel Service in Branford, Connecticut, and
they were able to weld a new bead on nearly all the way around the rim.
The guy that runs this place now (Erikkson) is the son of the guy that invented
the alloy wheel repair process, so they know what they're doing. Give them
a call.I remember that the repair was about $100 per wheel. Far less than a new
one.
>
>
www.precisionwheelservice.com>
1-800-fix-bend
>
> For those of you with peeling chrome wheels, they
even repair that too.
>
> hope it works out.
>
> -Thor
(1991 R/T Turbo)
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Sat, 9 Feb 2002 12:49:33
-0700
From: "Gabe Simoes" <
stealthdevil@netzero.net>
Subject:
Team3S: Hesitation During Boost
Hello all,
Need some advice.
I notice some serious hesitation on my stealth when the
boost would
onset. Backfiring and such. The problem was solved when I
linked
it to a lose spark plug wire. Today I regapped the plugs from .41
tol
.32 to accomodate the higher boost. The hesitation is back, but not
as
bad. Any ideas? Thanx in advance
Gabe Simoes
'92
Black Stealth RTTT
- - Intake & Exhaust @ 14psi
***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Sat, 9 Feb 2002 14:42:55
-0600
From: "Eric Cheek" <
echeek@cox-internet.com>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: Hesitation During Boost
Have you replaced your ignition
wires? I was having about the same problem
and replaced all my plugs and
wires.(8.5mm Magnacor's)
Eric Cheek '92 VR4
- -----Original
Message-----
From:
owner-team3s@team3s.com
[mailto:owner-team3s@team3s.com]On Behalf
Of Gabe Simoes
Sent: Saturday,
February 09, 2002 1:50 PM
To:
Team3S@stealth-3000gt.stSubject:
Team3S: Hesitation During Boost
Hello all,
Need some advice.
I notice some serious hesitation on my stealth when the
boost would
onset. Backfiring and such. The problem was solved when I
linked
it to a lose spark plug wire. Today I regapped the plugs from .41
tol
.32 to accomodate the higher boost. The hesitation is back, but not
as
bad. Any ideas? Thanx in advance
Gabe Simoes
'92
Black Stealth RTTT
- - Intake & Exhaust @ 14psi
***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Sun, 10 Feb 2002 01:12:05
+0000
From: "Aaron Kealey" <
aaron_kealey@hotmail.com>
Subject:
Team3S: Im sure gonna ruin this machine.
Hey Guys,
I just threw
together a bleeder valve boost controller using an SMC flow
control valve
and installed it in my cabin. (flip up the cover on the aux.
lighter socket
and there it is. Pretty slick eh? -thanks for the info Jeff-)
Trouble is it
doesnt work. I get a crazy spike in pressure right when i get
on the
throttle. If i turn it down to where it initally only spikes to
12-13psi, it
quickly settles back down close to the stock 9psi
(1993).
QESTION:
Before i ruin my car with my cheapo, homemade
gadgetry, could someone tell
me what a good ELECTRONIC BOOST CONTROLLER
would be. They range so wide in
price, I dont really know which features
would just be a waste for me. Is
fuzzy logic worth the increased price? Do
you need a dyno to tune/program
the high end ones? Keep in mind I'm no
pro-racer here.
Keep 'em spooled,
Aaron
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Sat, 9 Feb 2002 22:30:35
-0000
From: "Sam Shelat" <
sshelat@erols.com>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: oil pan baffles
I have about 102,000 miles on the stock turbos
and I never let it idle for a
minute before I shut down. I really do
not think pre-lubers etc. really
make a difference on these cars. If
you had a Buick Grand National, then I
would agree with the use of such
products. These motors are known to go
about 200,000 miles before
needing rebuilds when not beat on. Once you put
aftermarket turbos and
other parts to make the car go faster, the stock
internals are not known to
last very long. I just think money could be
better spent elsewhere
(IMHO)
Sam
- -----Original Message-----
From: Floyd, Jim <
Jim_Floyd@maxtor.com>
To: 'fastmax'
<
fastmax@cox.net>;
team3S@stealth-3000gt.st<
team3S@stealth-3000gt.st>
Date:
Friday, February 08, 2002 3:20 PM
Subject: RE: Team3S: oil pan
baffles
>Mr. B,
>
> I have used the Accusump product and
it does work as advertised.
> It will bring your engine up under oil
pressure before you start it.
> However it will do nothing to cool down
your turbos when you turn
>off the engine.
>
> I am currently
using
www.pre-luber.com because it saves
my engine
>and my turbos.
> As we have discussed previously I can't
afford to melt any more
>credit cards.
> When I upgrade my engine
and/or turbos I want it to be on my terms
>not due to component
failure.
>
>-----Original
Message-------------------------------------------------
>From: fastmax
[mailto:fastmax@cox.net]
>Sent: Thursday, February 07, 2002 6:47
PM
>To:
team3S@stealth-3000gt.st>Subject:
Team3S: oil pan baffles
>
>Any body messed around with oil pan
baffles --- in a track environment
>the oil pump can be starved for oil
which can of course, be detrimental
>to your pocket book. Many a racer has
found an unwanted inspection
>port in their oil pan after a carrousel turn
starved the oil pump.
>
>Improperly designed it would range from
useless to harmful.
>
>OR --- how about the Accusump products ???
Anybody with information
>on their products. They also have the advantage
of pre-oiling your
>engine before startup which sure can't hurt. I'm
leaning toward this
>product because of the pre oiling --- my car
sits for up to a week
>without being driven.
>
>
http://www.accusump.com/>
>
Jim berry [ Trying hard not to turn forged parts into scrap
metal]
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
End of Team3S: 3000GT &
Stealth V1
#749
***************************************