Team3S: 3000GT & Stealth  Saturday, February 9 2002  Volume 01 : Number 749




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Date: Fri, 8 Feb 2002 18:09:06 -0800
From: "Pete" <pbozanich@hotmail.com>
Subject: Team3S: gutting the precats

I have a 91 VR4 that Ive installed a stillen down pipe and borla exhaust. I
live in California, which I smoged the car last month, I won"t have to smog
it for 2 years. I kept the original down pipe and big cat, I will put it
back on the car when it needs to be smoged again. If I gut the pre cats
would that mess up the emmissions when I put back the original down pipe and
big cat? I want to gut them but not at the sake of not being able to smog
the car again.         thanks,
Pete

***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***

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Date: Fri, 08 Feb 2002 18:09:40 -0800
From: Damon Rachell <damonr@mefas.com>
Subject: Re: Team3S: gutting the precats

You shouldn't have a problem.  The key is to keep the car running while
waiting in line.  The whole purpose of the precats is to heat up first
before the main cat can reach functioning temp.  The precats, being
right after the turbo heat up almost immediately, therefore, reducing
start up emissions.  As long as you keep the stock cat and put it on for
the smog check you shouldn't have a problem

This is why I've got a gutted main cat, complete main cat, and gutted
precats (and I'm too cheap to buy a DP).

Pete wrote:

> I have a 91 VR4 that Ive installed a stillen down pipe and borla exhaust. I
> live in California, which I smoged the car last month, I won"t have to smog
> it for 2 years. I kept the original down pipe and big cat, I will put it
> back on the car when it needs to be smoged again. If I gut the pre cats
> would that mess up the emmissions when I put back the original down pipe and
> big cat? I want to gut them but not at the sake of not being able to smog
> the car again.         thanks,
> Pete

***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***

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Date: Fri, 8 Feb 2002 20:17:29 -0800 (PST)
From: menalteed <menalteed@yahoo.com>
Subject: Team3S: Turbocharger oil feed line and return line

Is it always important to change the lines when
changing turbocharger or can they be cleaned and
reused?

Peter 1992 TT Stealth

***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***

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Date: Sat, 9 Feb 2002 01:09:10 -0600
From: "Jannusch, Matt" <mjannusch@marketwatch.com>
Subject: RE: Team3S: Turbocharger oil feed line and return line

> Is it always important to change the lines when
> changing turbocharger or can they be cleaned and
> reused?

The feeds are usually good, since they get cooler/filtered oil pumped
through them.  The returns can get gunky if the owners of the car like to
beat on the car hard, pull right into the driveway, and turn it off.  It can
bake some of the oil in the turbo and the gunk collects in the return lines.

Personally, my car even with "aggressive" driving on the way home and then
going easy on it the last 1/4 mile on city streets had exactly zero deposits
in the return lines.

You might be able to clean them with a flexible brush of some sort (a
test-tube cleaning brush would probably work well), but there's a section
that's ridged that might be tough to clean.  I'd say it depends on how dirty
they are.  If they are already clean, then leave them alone.

Use new gaskets on both ends, and don't overtorque the bolts.  The spec is
something really low like 3-5 ft/lbs.  A little flange/gasket sealant helps
keep those from developing leaks later.  Put the return line on the front
turbo before you install the turbo onto the manifold, otherwise it is nearly
impossible to bolt up the return line to the turbo with the motor mount in
the way.

- -Matt
'95 3000GT Spyder VR4

***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***

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Date: Sat, 9 Feb 2002 04:24:35 -0500
From: "Darren Schilberg" <dschilberg@pobox.com>
Subject: RE: Team3S: Turbocharger oil feed line and return line

How about a "gunk" cleaner for the turbo oil lines?  I know Amsoil has
something like this as I just used it yesterday to help clean all the
cruddy oil off the inside of the engine.  However, it warns that once
you put the quart of liquid in the engine to not drive it but only to
rev the engine for 15 minutes.  Maybe it does *such* a good job cleaning
that it leaves some parts.

And no I didn't look at the turbo lines before and after I ran this
cleaner through there.  I was halfway hoping of driving around the
streets to get the turbos and oil cooler working so this cleaner would
get in there and clean out any coked oil in the lines.  Maybe the trick
is to put half a bottle in and rev some and drain the oil then put in
half a bottle and some brand new oil and rev some more.  If you are
finicky then you can wait until the fluid draining out is relatively
clear and that will mean you have a good bit of the old stuff out of the
way.  Or just drive for 500-1,000 miles and change the oil out so that
you are sure it gets through the turbos and oil cooler.

- --Flash!
1995 VR-4

- -----Original Message-----
From: Jannusch, Matt
Sent: Saturday, February 09, 2002 02:09
 
The feeds are usually good, since they get cooler/filtered oil pumped
through them.  The returns can get gunky if the owners of the car like
to beat on the car hard, pull right into the driveway, and turn it off.  It
can bake some of the oil in the turbo and the gunk collects in the return
lines.

Personally, my car even with "aggressive" driving on the way home and
then going easy on it the last 1/4 mile on city streets had exactly zero
depositsin the return lines.

You might be able to clean them with a flexible brush of some sort (a
test-tube cleaning brush would probably work well), but there's a
section that's ridged that might be tough to clean.  I'd say it depends on how
dirty they are.  If they are already clean, then leave them alone.

Use new gaskets on both ends, and don't overtorque the bolts.  The spec
is something really low like 3-5 ft/lbs.  A little flange/gasket sealant
helps keep those from developing leaks later.  Put the return line on the
front turbo before you install the turbo onto the manifold, otherwise it is
nearly impossible to bolt up the return line to the turbo with the motor mount
in the way.

***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***

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Date: Sat, 09 Feb 2002 08:42:31 EST
From: ThorHolth@aol.com
Subject: Team3S: Re: cracked wheel repair

five years ago, I cracked both left side wheels in my saab, which were alloy wheels.  I called Precision Wheel Service in Branford, Connecticut, and they were able to weld a new bead on nearly all the way around the rim.  The guy that runs this place now (Erikkson) is the son of the guy that invented the alloy wheel repair process, so they know what they're doing.  Give them a call.I remember that the repair was about $100 per wheel. Far less than a new one.

www.precisionwheelservice.com
1-800-fix-bend

For those of you with peeling chrome wheels, they even repair that too.

hope it works out.

- -Thor (1991 R/T Turbo)

***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***

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Date: Sat, 9 Feb 2002 09:55:28 -0500
From: "bdtrent" <bdtrent@netzero.net>
Subject: Re: Team3S: Oil line, front Turbo

Darren,

I replaced the return line/oil pan gasket twice, after installing new
turbos, before I was successfull in preventing a slight leak in this area.

Regards,
DaveT/92TT

- ----- Original Message -----
From: "Darren Schilberg" <dschilberg@pobox.com>
To: "'Team3S'" <Team3S@stealth-3000gt.st>
Sent: Friday, February 08, 2002 8:41 PM
Subject: RE: Team3S: Oil line, front Turbo

I just changed my oil today and noticed the oil drips/stains underneath
on the oil pan.  I looked up and think it is coming from the return oil
line from the front turbo.  Is this common?  Now that I look at it I
want to wrap it in insulation and heat wrap tape and fun things like
that.

Also, I think the transfer case is leaking at the seam but only under
hard idling or hard track use (I had to idle high for 20 minutes so
sitting still like that it got to drip exactly 5 times on the ground).
The drops are like Budweiser and I don't know what RedLine synthetic
tranny fluid is supposed to look like after 20k miles.  I'm not sure if
it was possibly some oil that I spilled from above that made its way
down to that side of the engine.

... and I thought the top side of the engines were crowded but up around
the oil filter and stuff is just as bad.

- --Flash!
1995 VR-4

- -----Original Message-----
From: Jannusch, Matt
Sent: Friday, February 08, 2002 13:43

Is there something wrong with your feed line?  It is usually the return
lines that have problems (if any).

Make sure you use new copper crush washers on all the feed line
connections
at the banjo fittings.

***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***

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Date: Sat, 09 Feb 2002 09:58:18 -0500
From: Mike <mike21b@dejazzd.com>
Subject: Re: Team3S: Re: cracked wheel repair

Well, yours was the first one in favor of "fix it" as opposed to "trash it".

I appreciate everone's response, though! Thanks to all who answered. If any of you browse the parts wanted in 3si, then you know how scarce our wheels are.

I have 12 wheels:
8 swept spoke 17" Stealth (one set on the car now)
4 18" indented spoke chrome VR4

what to do, what to do..................

ThorHolth@aol.com wrote:

> five years ago, I cracked both left side wheels in my saab, which were alloy wheels.  I called Precision Wheel Service in Branford, Connecticut, and they were able to weld a new bead on nearly all the way around the rim.  The guy that runs this place now (Erikkson) is the son of the guy that invented the alloy wheel repair process, so they know what they're doing.  Give them a call.I remember that the repair was about $100 per wheel. Far less than a new one.
>
> www.precisionwheelservice.com
> 1-800-fix-bend
>
> For those of you with peeling chrome wheels, they even repair that too.
>
> hope it works out.
>
> -Thor (1991 R/T Turbo)

***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***

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Date: Sat, 9 Feb 2002 12:49:33 -0700
From: "Gabe Simoes" <stealthdevil@netzero.net>
Subject: Team3S: Hesitation During Boost

Hello all,

Need some advice.  I notice some serious hesitation on my stealth when the
boost would onset.  Backfiring and such.  The problem was solved when I
linked it to a lose spark plug wire.  Today I regapped the plugs from .41
tol .32 to accomodate the higher boost.  The hesitation is back, but not as
bad.  Any ideas?  Thanx in advance

Gabe Simoes

'92 Black Stealth RTTT
- - Intake & Exhaust @ 14psi

***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***

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Date: Sat, 9 Feb 2002 14:42:55 -0600
From: "Eric Cheek" <echeek@cox-internet.com>
Subject: RE: Team3S: Hesitation During Boost

Have you replaced your ignition wires? I was having about the same problem
and replaced all my plugs and wires.(8.5mm Magnacor's)

Eric Cheek '92 VR4

- -----Original Message-----
From: owner-team3s@team3s.com [mailto:owner-team3s@team3s.com]On Behalf
Of Gabe Simoes
Sent: Saturday, February 09, 2002 1:50 PM
To: Team3S@stealth-3000gt.st
Subject: Team3S: Hesitation During Boost

Hello all,

Need some advice.  I notice some serious hesitation on my stealth when the
boost would onset.  Backfiring and such.  The problem was solved when I
linked it to a lose spark plug wire.  Today I regapped the plugs from .41
tol .32 to accomodate the higher boost.  The hesitation is back, but not as
bad.  Any ideas?  Thanx in advance

Gabe Simoes

'92 Black Stealth RTTT
- - Intake & Exhaust @ 14psi

***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***

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Date: Sun, 10 Feb 2002 01:12:05 +0000
From: "Aaron Kealey" <aaron_kealey@hotmail.com>
Subject: Team3S: Im sure gonna ruin this machine.

Hey Guys,

I just threw together a bleeder valve boost controller using an SMC flow
control valve and installed it in my cabin. (flip up the cover on the aux.
lighter socket and there it is. Pretty slick eh? -thanks for the info Jeff-)
Trouble is it doesnt work. I get a crazy spike in pressure right when i get
on the throttle. If i turn it down to where it initally only spikes to
12-13psi, it quickly settles back down close to the stock 9psi (1993).

QESTION:
Before i ruin my car with my cheapo, homemade gadgetry, could someone tell
me what a good ELECTRONIC BOOST CONTROLLER would be. They range so wide in
price, I dont really know which features would just be a waste for me. Is
fuzzy logic worth the increased price? Do you need a dyno to tune/program
the high end ones? Keep in mind I'm no pro-racer here.

Keep 'em spooled,
Aaron

***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***

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Date: Sat, 9 Feb 2002 22:30:35 -0000
From: "Sam Shelat" <sshelat@erols.com>
Subject: Re: Team3S: oil pan baffles

I have about 102,000 miles on the stock turbos and I never let it idle for a
minute before I shut down.  I really do not think pre-lubers etc. really
make a difference on these cars.  If you had a Buick Grand National, then I
would agree with the use of such products.  These motors are known to go
about 200,000 miles before needing rebuilds when not beat on.  Once you put
aftermarket turbos and other parts to make the car go faster, the stock
internals are not known to last very long.  I just think money could be
better spent elsewhere (IMHO)

Sam
- -----Original Message-----
From: Floyd, Jim <Jim_Floyd@maxtor.com>
To: 'fastmax' <fastmax@cox.net>; team3S@stealth-3000gt.st
<team3S@stealth-3000gt.st>
Date: Friday, February 08, 2002 3:20 PM
Subject: RE: Team3S: oil pan baffles

>Mr. B,
>
> I have used the Accusump product and it does work as advertised.
> It will bring your engine up under oil pressure before you start it.
> However it will do nothing to cool down your turbos when you turn
>off the engine.
>
> I am currently using www.pre-luber.com because it saves my engine
>and my turbos.
> As we have discussed previously I can't afford to melt any more
>credit cards.
> When I upgrade my engine and/or turbos I want it to be on my terms
>not due to component failure.
>
>-----Original Message-------------------------------------------------
>From: fastmax [mailto:fastmax@cox.net]
>Sent: Thursday, February 07, 2002 6:47 PM
>To: team3S@stealth-3000gt.st
>Subject: Team3S: oil pan baffles
>
>Any body messed around with oil pan baffles --- in a track environment
>the oil pump can be starved for oil which can of course, be detrimental
>to your pocket book. Many a racer has found an unwanted inspection
>port in their oil pan after a carrousel turn starved the oil pump.
>
>Improperly designed it would range from useless to harmful.
>
>OR --- how about the Accusump products ??? Anybody with information
>on their products. They also have the advantage of pre-oiling your
>engine before startup which sure can't hurt. I'm leaning toward this
>product because of the pre oiling  --- my car sits for up to a week
>without being driven.
>
> http://www.accusump.com/
>
>        Jim berry   [ Trying hard not to turn forged parts into scrap metal]

***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***

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End of Team3S: 3000GT & Stealth V1 #749
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