Team3S: 3000GT & Stealth Wednesday, January 30 2002
Volume 01 : Number
740
----------------------------------------------------------------------
Date:
Tue, 29 Jan 2002 11:05:17 -0500
From:
pvg1@daimlerchrysler.comSubject:
Re: Team3S: Engine smoke on decel
A leakdown test would show if the head
gasket leaks. It would also test the
piston rings and the valve seats but not
the valve stem seals because they
do not get pressurized during this test. I
do not know a good test for
those other than replacing them. Check for oil in
the Y-pipe to eliminate a
bad turbo.
Philip
>Could be valve
stem seals --- deceleration causes engine vacuum which
tinds
>to pull
oil into the engine. A leakdown test could give you some info as
to
the
>problem.
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 29 Jan 2002 10:08:38
-0600
From: Merritt <
merritt@cedar-rapids.net>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: replacement of front and rear antisway bars on '94 VR4
Holy
mackeral! Well, as long as we have to go that deep into the
suspension,
maybe it's time to replace all the bushings with polyurethane.
Anybody know
where we can get racing bushings?
Any ideas on what else we should do
while in there?
Any word on when we are getting the bars on that group
buy?
Rich/slow old poop
At 09:57 AM 1/29/02 -0600, Willis, Charles
E. wrote:
>I was reading in the Service Manual about the antisway bar
replacements to
>get an idea of how much work is involved. Appears
that the front one
>requires removing the left and right crossmember as
well as the front
>exhaust pipe. The rear one seems easier, but
requires support to the rear
>differential and then lowering it a little
to get the swaybar out.
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 29 Jan 2002 17:39:04
+0100
From: Roger Gerl <
roger.gerl@bluewin.ch>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Manifold question
It's not a diameter as it is a rounded
rectangle. The opening of the
manifolds are smaller than the exhaust port
outlets thus there is room for
improvement (see my webpage under
http://www.rtec.ch/upgrade_project.html)
I also have original scans of the design drawing I got from Japan with some
measures on them. They are somewhere on my old geocities page but I can
also mail them tomorrow evening.
Roger
93'3000GT TT
www.rtec.chAt 10:25 29.01.2002 -0500, Jeff
VanOrsdal wrote:
>Does anyone know the diameter of the exhaust outlet on a
stock TT exhaust
>manifold? Thanks.
>
>Jeff
VanOrsdal
>1991 Stealth ESX Twin
Turbo
>jeffv@1nce.com
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 29 Jan 2002 10:46:46
-0600
From:
overclck@ies.net (Cody
Graham)
Subject: RE: Team3S: Manifold question
Roger, I too, was
confused at first by his wording, but I think he meant
the surface that mated
to the turbo, not the actual exhaust ports...
- -Cody
-
-----Original Message-----
From:
owner-team3s@team3s.com
[mailto:owner-team3s@team3s.com] On Behalf
Of Roger Gerl
Sent: Tuesday,
January 29, 2002 10:39 AM
To: Team3s Tech List
Subject: Re: Team3S:
Manifold question
It's not a diameter as it is a rounded rectangle. The
opening of the
manifolds are smaller than the exhaust port outlets thus
there is room
for
improvement (see my webpage under
http://www.rtec.ch/upgrade_project.html)
I also have original scans of the design drawing I got from Japan
with
some
measures on them. They are somewhere on my old geocities page
but I can
also mail them tomorrow evening.
Roger
93'3000GT
TT
www.rtec.chAt 10:25 29.01.2002
-0500, Jeff VanOrsdal wrote:
>Does anyone know the diameter of the exhaust
outlet on a stock TT
exhaust
>manifold?
Thanks.
>
>Jeff VanOrsdal
>1991 Stealth ESX Twin
Turbo
>jeffv@1nce.com
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 29 Jan 2002 11:58:45
-0500
From: "Jeff VanOrsdal" <
jeffv@1nce.com>
Subject: RE: Team3S:
Manifold question
Sorry for the confusion. I'm talking about the
opening in the exhaust
manifold where it joins to the turbine housing.
It's shown in this picture:
http://www.rtec.ch/pictures/egt_rear_2.jpgI
need the diameter of the port itself. Not the flange. Thanks
guys.
Jeff VanOrsdal
1991 Stealth ESX Twin Turbo
jeffv@1nce.com- -----Original
Message-----
From:
owner-team3s@team3s.com
[mailto:owner-team3s@team3s.com]On Behalf
Of Roger Gerl
Sent: Tuesday,
January 29, 2002 11:39 AM
To: Team3s Tech List
Subject: Re: Team3S:
Manifold question
It's not a diameter as it is a rounded rectangle. The
opening of the
manifolds are smaller than the exhaust port outlets thus there
is room for
improvement (see my webpage under
http://www.rtec.ch/upgrade_project.html)
I
also have original scans of the design drawing I got from Japan with
some
measures on them. They are somewhere on my old geocities page but I
can
also mail them tomorrow evening.
Roger
93'3000GT TT
www.rtec.chAt 10:25 29.01.2002 -0500, Jeff
VanOrsdal wrote:
>Does anyone know the diameter of the exhaust outlet on a
stock TT exhaust
>manifold? Thanks.
>
>Jeff
VanOrsdal
>1991 Stealth ESX Twin
Turbo
>jeffv@1nce.com
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 29 Jan 2002 11:57:53
-0500
From: "Furman, Russell" <
RFurman2@MassMutual.com>
Subject:
Team3S: Manifolds wanted
Speaking of manifolds, could the person
who was selling turbo manifolds off
his/her car contact me off the
list. Include asking price if they are still
available.
Also any
ideas how much extrude honing could be done to the stockers before
they would
lose major structural integrity?
> -----Original
Message-----
> From: Jeff VanOrsdal [SMTP:jeffv@1nce.com]
> Sent:
Tuesday, January 29, 2002 11:59 AM
> To: Team3s Tech List; Roger
Gerl
> Subject: RE: Team3S: Manifold question
>
> Sorry for
the confusion. I'm talking about the opening in the exhaust
>
manifold where it joins to the turbine housing. It's shown in this
>
picture:
>
>
http://www.rtec.ch/pictures/egt_rear_2.jpg>
> I need the diameter of the port itself. Not the flange.
Thanks guys.
>
> Jeff VanOrsdal
> 1991 Stealth ESX Twin
Turbo
>
jeffv@1nce.com>
> -----Original Message-----
> From:
owner-team3s@team3s.com
[mailto:owner-team3s@team3s.com]On Behalf
> Of Roger Gerl
> Sent:
Tuesday, January 29, 2002 11:39 AM
> To: Team3s Tech List
> Subject:
Re: Team3S: Manifold question
>
>
> It's not a diameter as
it is a rounded rectangle. The opening of the
> manifolds are smaller than
the exhaust port outlets thus there is room for
> improvement (see my
webpage under
http://www.rtec.ch/upgrade_project.html)
>
I also have original scans of the design drawing I got from Japan with
>
some
> measures on them. They are somewhere on my old geocities page but I
can
> also mail them tomorrow evening.
>
> Roger
>
93'3000GT TT
>
www.rtec.ch>
>
> At 10:25 29.01.2002 -0500, Jeff VanOrsdal wrote:
>
>Does anyone know the diameter of the exhaust outlet on a stock TT
exhaust
> >manifold? Thanks.
> >
> >Jeff
VanOrsdal
> >1991 Stealth ESX Twin Turbo
>
>jeffv@1nce.com
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 29 Jan 2002 11:16:20
-0600
From: "Jannusch, Matt" <
mjannusch@marketwatch.com>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: Manifolds wanted
> Also any ideas how much extrude
honing could be done to the
> stockers before they would lose major
structural integrity?
You could probably extrudehone a decent amount of
material (1/8"?) out of
the rear manifold, but not much at all out of the
front one since the front
is a welded tubular "header" design and doesn't
have nearly as much material
as the casted rear one. I have no idea if
the rear one would be prone to
cracking if you removed much material
though.
The rear one is pretty similar to the DSM exhaust manifold -
whatever they
can do on theirs is probably possible on ours.
-
-Matt
'95 3000GT Spyder VR4
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 29 Jan 2002 09:19:22
-0800
From: "Jim Berry" <
fastmax@home.com>
Subject: Team3S:
bearing sets
In my never ending quest the perfect engine I'm back to the
crankshaft delema. I know that Mitsu doesn't sell or recommend
the use of
oversize rod or crank bearings, however several of you
folk said that have
ground their crank and put in oversized bearings.
What manufacturer did you
use --- two places I called said Clevite
doesn't sell an oversized bearing
--- true or false ????
Jim
Berry
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 29 Jan 2002 13:45:24
-0500
From: "Berrios, Victor L CIV" <
VLBerrios@rroads.med.navy.mil>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: Question about front end conversion
You are very
welcome.
It's amazing how they look after the conversion.
It's a little
bit more expensive for the 1st generation because they have to
replace the
hood too.
Victor
'96 Pearl White VR-4
- -----Original
Message-----
From: Floyd, Jim [mailto:Jim_Floyd@maxtor.com]
Sent: Tuesday,
January 29, 2002 5:54 PM
To: 'Berrios, Victor L CIV'
Subject: RE: Team3S:
Question about front end conversion
Thank you.
- -----Original
Message-----
From: Berrios, Victor L CIV
[mailto:VLBerrios@rroads.med.navy.mil]
Sent: Tuesday, January 29, 2002 4:52
AM
To:
'team3s@stealth-3000gt.st'Subject:
RE: Team3S: Question about front end conversion
Jim:
Yes it's
possible. Everything fix OK.
Check this thread
http://www.3si.org/vbb/showthread.php?s=8c7ec46a027b333f93ca6024a788e50a&threadid=62162&highlight=99+conversion
Enjoy
the conversion
Victor
'96 Pearl White 3KGT VR-4
In process of '99
conversion
- -----Original Message-----
From: Floyd, Jim
[mailto:Jim_Floyd@maxtor.com]
Sent: Monday, January 28, 2002 7:58 PM
To:
'Berrios, Victor L CIV'
Subject: RE: Team3S: Question about front end
conversion
I have a '95 VR4.
Is it possible to just install the '99
headlight and keep the rest
of my front end ?
- -----Original
Message-----
From: Berrios, Victor L CIV
[mailto:VLBerrios@rroads.med.navy.mil]
Sent: Monday, January 28, 2002 1:48
PM
To:
'Team3s@stealth-3000gt.st'Subject:
RE: Team3S: Question about front end conversion
Hi Will
A lot of the
guys in the 3si board has done this. I read in one threat that
the harness
fit OK.
Search on the 3si files and you'll find a lot of information
about the 99
conversion (1st & 2nd generation.
I'm planning on doing
the complete conversion (lights, side markers,
front
bumper)
Here is a quote I got from "Conicelli Mitsu"
From: "John Roche" <
jroche@conicelliautoplex.com>
>
To: "SERVICE" <
jmonteleone@conicelliautoplex.com>
>
Sent: Monday, January 07, 2002 8:08 PM
> Subject: Re: Parts Order -
Conicelli Mitsubishi
>
> > sir,
> > the bumper cover is
$380.45
> > the headlamps are $445.50 each
> > the side
markers are $53.25 each and shipping would probably run around
45
>
> to 50 dollars
> > thank you
> > conicelli mitsu parts
dept.
Good luck and let us know how it turns out.
Victor
'96
Peal White 3KGT VR-4
In process of '99 conversion.
- -----Original
Message-----
From: Will Fortenberry [mailto:BigWill_VR4@hotmail.com]
Sent:
Monday, January 28, 2002 7:17 PM
To: Cody Graham; 'Jannusch, Matt';
Team3S
Subject: Re: Team3S: Question about front end conversion
Along
the same lines, can one put the '99 headlights (not side markers) into
a 2nd
gen bumper without major modifications? Do the wiring harnesses
hook
up?
Thanks,
Will
94 VR-4
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 29 Jan 2002 10:37:34
-0800
From: "Gross, Erik" <
erik.gross@intel.com>
Subject: RE:
Team3S: replacement of front and rear antisway bars on '94 VR 4
> I
was reading in the Service Manual about the antisway bar
> replacements
to get an idea of how much work is involved.
> Appears that the front one
requires removing the left and right
> crossmember as well as the front
exhaust pipe.
I'll be doing this soon.... the left and right
members are cake - a couple
bolts and they're off. The front exhaust
pipe (downpipe) is pretty easy as
well (19mm on the precats and 17mm on the
cats) as long as you soak the
bolts/nuts overnight in liquid wrench, coke, or
other stuff. I think you
also need to drop the transfer case as well,
but that's just draining it and
removing 5 bolts. Time consuming to do
it right, but not hard by any means.
Give yourself a few hours and a few
beers and it'll be all good ;)
Now the rear one... that'll be an
adventure. Haven't had the excuse to mess
around too much back there...
yet.
- --Erik
'95 VR-4 with aftermarket DP and new TC seals, awaiting
F/R anti-sway bars
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 29 Jan 2002 12:39:47
-0600
From: "Black, Dave (ICT)" <
dblai@allstate.com>
Subject: Team3S:
Recommendations for WI/AI kit
I am looking into purchasing a decent
water/alcohol injection kit and was
wondering what the recommendations
are. I have seen Spearco for about $210,
ERL Aquamist 1S for $450, and
ERL Aquamist 2S for $800.
What are the main differences between each
system and how do they compare to
each other? It would seem as if the
$800 kit is overkill.
Much thanks.
Dave 95VR4
http://www.daveblack.net***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 29 Jan 2002 13:43:01
-0500
From: "Furman, Russell" <
RFurman2@MassMutual.com>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: Recommendations for WI/AI kit
Actually the 800 dollar kit is
a fully mapable system (whatever that means)
I would guess that you can
increase or decrease the pump voltage (i.e. w/I
flow) and increase or
decrease the output according to engine demand. I
may be way off
base and if so somebody correct me.
Russ F
CT
>
-----Original Message-----
> From: Black, Dave (ICT)
[SMTP:dblai@allstate.com]
> Sent: Tuesday, January 29, 2002 1:40
PM
> To: Team3s (E-mail);
'stealth@starnet.net'> Subject:
Team3S: Recommendations for WI/AI kit
>
> I am looking into
purchasing a decent water/alcohol injection kit and was
> wondering what
the recommendations are. I have seen Spearco for about
>
$210,
> ERL Aquamist 1S for $450, and ERL Aquamist 2S for $800.
>
> What are the main differences between each system and how do they
compare
> to
> each other? It would seem as if the $800 kit is
overkill.
>
> Much thanks.
>
> Dave 95VR4
>
http://www.daveblack.net***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 29 Jan 2002 10:53:07
-0800
From: "Gross, Erik" <
erik.gross@intel.com>
Subject: RE:
Team3S: Recommendations for WI/AI kit
> Actually the 800 dollar kit is
a fully mapable system
> (whatever that means) I would guess that you
can
> increase or decrease the pump voltage (i.e. w/I
> flow) and
increase or decrease the output according
> to engine
demand.
Mappable flow rate based on engine RPM and your choice of 3
sensors (MAP,
Airflow, or throttle-position). And it has an adjustable
switch to make
sure it doesn't engage until X psi in the manifold. It
regulates flow via
regulating the water pressure, not pump voltage.
Installing this kit now,
actually. Roger has one, too... will
write more when I have time. Highly
recommend it, and there's a group
buy going on on 3SI right now, too.
- --Erik
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 29 Jan 2002 10:57:49
-0700
From: "Mike & Cathy" <
micajoco@theofficenet.com>
Subject:
Team3S: timing belt replacement
What is the purpose of removing the
plenum when replacing the timing belt? I
don't see where it interferes with
the belt replacement. Also after pulling
the belt cover I see that about 1/4
" of the belt has been stripped off.
Would this make the timing belt jump or
is there sending units that monitor
this and shuts the motor off?
Mike S
92 rt tt Wash St.
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 29 Jan 2002 14:50:26
-0500
From: "Berrios, Victor L CIV" <
VLBerrios@rroads.med.navy.mil>
Subject:
Team3S: Info on Getrag Transmisiions
Hi all:
I saw this threat in the
3si board about our Getrag transmissions/problems
and though it would be very
benefitial to all of us. This is not the first
time someone has attemp to
deal with Getrag Management, but apparently there
has been good progress on
this one. I'll support any effort to this cause.
FYI
http://www.3si.org/vbb/showthread.php?s=3243abb486846860ac72921b38ca3cbf&threadid=57924&perpage=15&pagenumber=4
Victor
'96
Pearl White VR-4
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 29 Jan 2002 13:07:57
-0600
From: "Jannusch, Matt" <
mjannusch@marketwatch.com>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: timing belt replacement
> What is the purpose of removing
the plenum when replacing the
> timing belt? I don't see where it
interferes with the belt
> replacement.
You should be able to do
the timing belt without removing the plenum, but at
60,000 miles it is a good
time to replace the spark plugs and wires - which
does require removal of the
plenum.
Most people also replace the water pump at 60,000 miles - which
requires
plenum removal also.
- -Matt
'95 3000GT Spyder
VR4
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 29 Jan 2002 13:08:44
-0600
From:
overclck@ies.net (Cody
Graham)
Subject: RE: Team3S: timing belt replacement
What do you mean
by "stripped off" The timing belt is not quite as wide
at the cam
gears. Maybe by 1/4 of an inch. There is no monitor for
this type
of thing... thus the replace every 60K interval.
The plenum can
stay on, on turbos as far as I can see. On non-turbos,
the VIC motor is
kinda in the way of the rear timing belt cover
(although it can still stay
on). I think removal of it was meant more
toward replacing spark
plugs... It does give you a bit more room to
work in there
though with it removed...
- -Cody
- -----Original
Message-----
From:
owner-team3s@team3s.com
[mailto:owner-team3s@team3s.com] On Behalf
Of Mike & Cathy
Sent:
Tuesday, January 29, 2002 11:58 AM
To: team3s stealth-3000gt
Subject:
Team3S: timing belt replacement
What is the purpose of removing the
plenum when replacing the timing
belt? I
don't see where it interferes
with the belt replacement. Also after
pulling
the belt cover I see that
about 1/4 " of the belt has been stripped off.
Would this make the timing
belt jump or is there sending units that
monitor
this and shuts the motor
off?
Mike S 92 rt tt Wash St.
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 29 Jan 2002 13:11:03
-0600
From: "Jannusch, Matt" <
mjannusch@marketwatch.com>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: timing belt replacement
> Most people also replace the
water pump at 60,000 miles -
> which requires plenum removal
also.
Actually I lied there - you don't have to take the plenum off to
replace the
water pump. If you replace the O-ring in the back end of
the crosspipe then
you would have to, but just pulling the pump off the end
doesn't need to
have the plenum off.
- -Matt
'95 3000GT Spyder
VR4
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 29 Jan 2002 11:37:41
-0700
From: "Mike & Cathy" <
micajoco@theofficenet.com>
Subject:
Team3S: timing belt
Cody
After removing the belt cover I was able to
pull out about a 1/4" of the
belt that was shredded off. I was driver at
70mph when the motor just shut
down. No check engine lights or any warning. I
wasn't sure what happen, now
I know. Its 10 degrees here and my garage is
full so all the work has to
done outside or fight with the wife to use her
garage. Guess I'd better
dress warm. Thanks for the response.
MikeS 92 rt
tt Wash St.
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 29 Jan 2002 18:15:19
-0600
From: "Todd D.Shelton" <
tds@brightok.net>
Subject: Re: Team3S:
Manifold question
- -----Original Message-----
From: Jeff VanOrsdal
<
jeffv@1nce.com>
To: Team3s Tech
List <
team3s@stealth-3000gt.st>; Roger
Gerl
<
roger.gerl@bluewin.ch>
Date:
Tuesday, January 29, 2002 10:54 AM
Subject: RE: Team3S: Manifold
question
>Sorry for the confusion. I'm talking about the opening
in the exhaust
>manifold where it joins to the turbine housing. It's
shown in
this
picture:
>
>http://www.rtec.ch/pictures/egt_rear_2.jpg
>
>I
need the diameter of the port itself. Not the flange. Thanks
guys.
>
>Jeff VanOrsdal
>1991 Stealth ESX Twin
Turbo
>jeffv@1nce.com
-
----------------------------------------------------------------------------
I'm
getting 2" - which converted is 50.8mm leading
me to believe it is most
likely 51mm.
- - tds
http://www.brightok.net/~tds***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 29 Jan 2002 16:16:07
-0800
From: "fastmax" <
fastmax@cox.net>
Subject: Team3S:
crankshaft --- yet again
The next question after our inability to figure
out if the crank
is nitrided is to determine the construction.
The
first cranks were supposed to be cast followed by a 'steel'
version ---- any
idea of how to determine which is which. Is the
new crank forged, billet or
just another casting.
Anyone have pictures of the crank --- especially in
the area of
the casting marks on the counterweights. Anybody with a
2nd
gen crank know what the casting marks
are.
Jim
Berry
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 29 Jan 2002 18:33:27
-0600
From: "Todd D.Shelton" <
tds@brightok.net>
Subject: Re: Team3S:
Info on Getrag Transmisiions
- -----Original Message-----
From:
Berrios, Victor L CIV <
VLBerrios@rroads.med.navy.mil>
To:
'team3s@stealth-3000gt.st'
<
team3s@stealth-3000gt.st>
Date:
Tuesday, January 29, 2002 1:00 PM
Subject: Team3S: Info on Getrag
Transmisiions
>Hi all:
>I saw this threat in the 3si board about
our Getrag transmissions/problems
>and though it would be very benefitial
to all of us. This is not the first
>time someone has attemp to deal with
Getrag Management, but apparently
there
>has been good progress on this
one. I'll support any effort to this
cause.
>
>FYI
>http://www.3si.org/vbb/showthread.php?s=3243abb486846860ac72921b38ca3cbf&th
r
>eadid=57924&perpage=15&pagenumber=4
>
>Victor
>'96
Pearl White VR-4
-
------------------------------------------------------------------
It
doesn't look to me like things are getting any
farther than they have when
other people have
tried twisting arms for the last 5? years.
If
anything it looks like we could run out of parts
to remanufacture/refurbish
eventually - according
to Kormex.
It's not as if these same tactics
haven't
already been tried. We have nothing
to lose by trying some
more but I don't
see any reason to get excited .....
- - tds
http://www.brightok.net/~tds***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 29 Jan 2002 18:40:34
-0600
From: "Todd D.Shelton" <
tds@brightok.net>
Subject: Re: Team3S:
Diagnosing knock vs. spark blowout?
- -----Original Message-----
From:
pvg1@daimlerchrysler.com <
pvg1@daimlerchrysler.com>
To:
team3s@team3s.com <
team3s@team3s.com>
Date: Tuesday,
January 29, 2002 9:22 AM
Subject: Re: Team3S: Diagnosing knock vs. spark
blowout?
>Yeah, this sucks. If you fill 18 gallons per refueling then
you fill 15
>gallons of 91 octane and 3 gallons of 103 octane and you are
only getting a
>93 octane. This is like overpaying almost $10 per each gas
tank of the 93
>octane. But at least you are getting alcohol and water
already included in
>it for free!
>
-
----------------------------------------------------------------------------
The
percentage of alcohol [denatured = 101 octane) when
using spray is larger
than that mix would be.
If you're going to mix your own fuel, just
use 117 octane
Xylene (up to 30% for ~ 100 octane mix)
- -
tds
http://www.brightok.net/~tds***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 29 Jan 2002 16:43:47
-0800
From: Damon Rachell <
damonr@mefas.com>
Subject: Re: Team3S:
Diagnosing knock vs. spark blowout?
how does xylene react with the seals
and the O2 sensors? My guess,
since it's a solvent, it can't be all
that great for the engine system
as a whole.
Todd D.Shelton
wrote:
> -----Original Message-----
> From:
pvg1@daimlerchrysler.com <
pvg1@daimlerchrysler.com>
>
To:
team3s@team3s.com <
team3s@team3s.com>
> Date: Tuesday,
January 29, 2002 9:22 AM
> Subject: Re: Team3S: Diagnosing knock vs. spark
blowout?
>
>>Yeah, this sucks. If you fill 18 gallons per
refueling then you fill 15
>>gallons of 91 octane and 3 gallons of 103
octane and you are only getting a
>>93 octane. This is like overpaying
almost $10 per each gas tank of the 93
>>octane. But at least you are
getting alcohol and water already included in
>>it for free!
>
----------------------------------------------------------------------------
>
> The percentage of alcohol [denatured = 101 octane) when
> using
spray is larger than that mix would be.
>
> If you're going to mix
your own fuel, just use 117 octane
> Xylene (up to 30% for ~
100 octane mix)
>
> - tds
>
http://www.brightok.net/~tds***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 29 Jan 2002 18:44:29
-0600
From: "Todd D.Shelton" <
tds@brightok.net>
Subject: Re: Team3S:
Engine smoke on decel
- -----Original Message-----
From: Jim Berry
<
fastmax@home.com>
To:
team3s@team3s.com <
team3s@team3s.com>;
pagan@siscom.net<
pagan@siscom.net>
Date: Tuesday,
January 29, 2002 9:05 AM
Subject: Re: Team3S: Engine smoke on
decel
>Could be valve stem seals --- deceleration causes engine vacuum
which tinds
>to pull oil into the engine. A leakdown test could give you
some info as
to
the
>problem.
>
>
Jim Berry
-
----------------------------------------------------------------------------
When
was the last time you saw *white* smoke
from burning motor oil?!
- -
tds
http://www.brightok.net/~tds-
----------------------------------------------------------
>----- Original
Message -----
>From:
pagan@siscom.net>To:
team3s@team3s.com>
. I have
personally always thought the smoke
>was white with a blue hue, but a
friend thought it looked very white from
>behind me the other
day.
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 29 Jan 2002 18:50:59
-0600
From: "Todd D.Shelton" <
tds@brightok.net>
Subject: Re: Team3S:
Diagnosing knock vs. spark blowout?
- -----Original Message-----
From:
Damon Rachell <
damonr@mefas.com>
To: Todd D.Shelton
<
tds@brightok.net>
Cc:
team3s@team3s.com <
team3s@team3s.com>
Date: Tuesday,
January 29, 2002 6:39 PM
Subject: Re: Team3S: Diagnosing knock vs. spark
blowout?
>how does xylene react with the seals and the O2
sensors? My guess,
>since it's a solvent, it can't be all that
great for the engine system
>as a whole.
-
------------------------------------------------------------------
If
you're worried about that then you had better
stop driving on pump gas
completely since
they already use xylene, touline and various
other
chemicals now - straight from the pump.
Also, don't use any type of
ocatane booster
in a bottle since that's what they use too.
Same thing
with racing fuel ..... unleaded or not ...
- - tds
http://www.brightok.net/~tds***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 29 Jan 2002 16:51:52
-0800
From: "fastmax" <
fastmax@cox.net>
Subject: Re: Team3S:
Engine smoke on decel
Well the options seem to be, steam [ white ---
smells like steam/antifreeze ],
oil [white/blue ---- oil smell ] or fuel [
grey/black --- smells like fuel ].
From his description I would go with
oil, he said white/blue and shows on
decel--- I guess one question would be
whether or not oil is being consumed
????
Jim
Berry
===============================================
| When was the
last time you saw *white* smoke
| from burning motor oil?!
|
| -
tds
|
http://www.brightok.net/~tds***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 29 Jan 2002 17:19:56
-0800
From: "Geddes, Brian J" <
brian.j.geddes@intel.com>
Subject:
Team3S: Boost - how much is too much?
All
I'm looking at getting
new turbos, and I'm trying to decide between the 13g
and 15g. Based on
Jeff Lucius' new turbo compressor map page (great page,
Jeff!), it looks like
the 13g is good to 18 PSI, and the 15g to 22PSI, with
our intercooler system
rendering output temp differences trivial. I'll
upgrade my fuel system
to support the higher boost. If I am going to run <=
18 PSI, then
I'll go with the 13g's for the faster spoolup. If I'm going to
run
18-22 PSI, then I'll go with the 15g's for the higher flow.
What I
need to figure out is how much boost I can run. I see two
major
factors, the first of which is knock. I'll install a water
injection system
to supress knock, but even with WI I know there'll be a
threshold where
knock becomes an issue. What's that threshold?
The other deciding factor here (in my eyes) is the strength of the
stock
internals. I have no intentions of ever upgrading rods,
pistons,
crankshaft, etc. Is there a limit on the amount of boost a
stock engine can
handle? What about from a longevity stand point?
If I run over "x" boost,
will I be significantly shortening the life of my
engine?
I realize that there is no definitive answer to this
question as every
engine is a little bit different, so I'm looking for
everyone's collective
experience with modifying their own cars. From
the information I've
gathered so far 18 PSI is my likely target, so I'm
leaning towards the
13g's. Has anyone who bought the 13g's found that
they were insufficient?
Have any 15g owners found themselves never going
above 18PSI?
Thanks,
- - Brian
'94 Yellow VR-4
'96 Green
3000GT (For Sale!!)
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 29 Jan 2002 17:59:28
-0800 (PST)
From: Jeff Lucius <
stealthman92@yahoo.com>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Manifold question
The size of the smaller opening is a
nominal 1 3/8 inch. The larger
opening is a nominal 1 1/2 inch. I dug out my
spare set of manifolds
and took the pic on my new web page below.
http://www.geocities.com/lutransys/jlucius6/j6-2-exhmans.htmJeff
Lucius,
http://www.stealth316.com/- ---
Jeff VanOrsdal <
jeffv@1nce.com>
wrote:
> Sorry for the confusion. I'm talking about the opening in
the
> exhaust
> manifold where it joins to the turbine
housing. It's shown in this
> picture:
>
>
http://www.rtec.ch/pictures/egt_rear_2.jpg>
> I need the diameter of the port itself. Not the flange.
Thanks
> guys.
>
> Jeff VanOrsdal
> 1991 Stealth ESX
Twin Turbo
>
jeffv@1nce.com*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 29 Jan 2002 20:41:29
US/Central
From:
tds@brightok.netSubject: Re: Team3S:
Manifold question
> The size of the smaller opening is a nominal 1 3/8
inch. The larger
> opening is a nominal 1 1/2 inch. I dug out my spare set
of manifolds
> and took the pic on my new web page below.
>
>
http://www.geocities.com/lutransys/jlucius6/j6-2-exhmans.htm>
> Jeff Lucius,
http://www.stealth316.com/-
------------------------------------------------
We must have taken a
dremel tool to mine
some years back - looks like we were able to get
an
extra 1/2"? I remember working the O2 housings
and turbine side flapper
valve area, removing the
smaller inner opening, removing that silly
reducer
ring .... can't keep up with all of it anymore ...
- -
tds
- ---------------------------------------------
This message was sent
using BrightNet MailMan.
http://www.Brightok.net/mailman/***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 30 Jan 2002 02:41:17
+0000
From:
apedenko@attbi.comSubject: Re: Team3S:
Info on Getrag Transmisiions
What about going someplace else? This has
been
discussed before, but how about trying to adapt a trans
from a
different car? For example - the Audi S4 is an
AWD TT V6 w/ a 6sp
transmission. How difficult would it
be to make it work for us? Another
option is to find
out how many people would be willing to buy a _new_
transmission if it became available, and if the number
is large enough,
just go to a different transmission
manufacturer and get them to make one
that'll fit.
Granted, it'd be more expensive this way than the
original
trans, but if we get enough people (and I mean
several thousand) one of the
other transmission
manufacturers might be willing to produce something
that will work for us.
Just a thought,
Alex.
'95 VR4 with grinding synchros
> -----Original
Message-----
> From: Berrios, Victor L CIV
<
VLBerrios@rroads.med.navy.mil>
>
To:
'team3s@stealth-3000gt.st'
<
team3s@stealth-
3000gt.st>
>
Date: Tuesday, January 29, 2002 1:00 PM
> Subject: Team3S: Info on Getrag
Transmisiions
>
>
> >Hi all:
> >I saw this
threat in the 3si board about our Getrag
transmissions/problems
>
>and though it would be very benefitial to all of us.
This is not the
first
> >time someone has attemp to deal with Getrag
Management,
but apparently
> there
> >has been good progress on this one.
I'll support any
effort to this cause.
> >
> >FYI
>
>http://www.3si.org/vbb/showthread.php?
s=3243abb486846860ac72921b38ca3cbf&th
>
r
> >eadid=57924&perpage=15&pagenumber=4
> >
>
>Victor
> >'96 Pearl White VR-4
>
------------------------------------------------------
>
> It
doesn't look to me like things are getting any
> farther than they have
when other people have
> tried twisting arms for the last 5?
years.
>
> If anything it looks like we could run out of
parts
> to remanufacture/refurbish eventually - according
> to
Kormex.
>
> It's not as if these same tactics haven't
>
already been tried. We have nothing
> to lose by trying some more
but I don't
> see any reason to get excited .....
>
> -
tds
>
http://www.brightok.net/~tds***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 29 Jan 2002 23:20:24
-0600
From: "Jannusch, Matt" <
mjannusch@marketwatch.com>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: Info on Getrag Transmisiions
> What about going someplace
else? This has been
> discussed before, but how about trying to adapt a
trans
> from a different car? For example - the Audi S4 is an
>
AWD TT V6 w/ a 6sp transmission.
If you wanna do that, you should at
least pick an example that mates to a
transverse-mounted motor. Unless
I'm mistaken, Audi uses a "standard"
mounted motor design where the 3/S uses
a transverse mounted design.
> How difficult would it be to make it
work for us?
If it is what I think it is, it would be near impossible
without reorienting
the motor - and that'll cause a whole other set of
problems.
> Another option is to find out how many people
would
> be willing to buy a _new_ transmission if it became
>
available, and if the number is large enough, just
> go to a different
transmission manufacturer and get
> them to make one that'll fit.
If you have $20,000 - $30,000 you could have one of the rally tranny
shops
make something for you. It probably won't have angle-cut gears or
other
niceties like synchronizers, and it'll make a lot of noise. For
that kind
of money, you might as well buy another 3/S or two for tranny
donors.
If we could just get internal parts for our trannies then at
least when they
do break the costs would be more reasonable. Once we
can get parts, then
there's the possibility of having improved versions of
those parts made by
others.
If you really wanted to get rid of the
Getrag for whatever reason, you could
look at something like the EVO-VII
tranny, or the DSM AWD tranny. At least
you can get parts for
those... It probably won't just bolt up, but at least
you'll have a
similar design and it'll be "close" to start with.
- -Matt
'95 3000GT
Spyder VR4
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 29 Jan 2002 22:44:40
-0800 (PST)
From: John Christian <
jczoom_619@yahoo.com>
Subject: RE:
Team3S: Manifold question
Hi Jeff,
I wouldn't mess with that
opening cause there is a
ring (probably some type of seal) which fits
tightly
into that hole and a matching hole in the turbo.
I've got 2
sets of turbos 9G & 13G and manifolds in
the garage and they all
measure:
Dimensions Diameters in mm
Turbo 33.5, 33.4
small 38.8, 38.7 large
Rear
Manifold 35.8 small 38.8 large
Front manifold 35.7
small 39.5 large
Ring 34.7 small 38.7
large 2mm thick about 1/4"
long Yes, I got back to the
computer and realized I
hadn't measured the ring length, sorry.
You
should also know I have used a burr on the
front(fabricated) manifold to
remove a LOT of weld
metal from inside the hole(turbo side). I'm going
to
take out more to allow better flow. But now that I've
measured
the turbo, its the hole in the turbo that is
now the smallest. However,
I sure don't want any
metal chips in the turbine veins.
I'm reluctant
to take out more metal on the
exhaust-manifold-head interface cause the front
is a
fabrication. But there is a lot of weld metal
clogging
the opening.
Be of good cheer,
John
- --- Jeff VanOrsdal <
jeffv@1nce.com> wrote:
> Sorry for the
confusion. I'm talking about the
> opening in the exhaust
>
manifold where it joins to the turbine housing.
> It's shown in this
picture:
>
>
http://www.rtec.ch/pictures/egt_rear_2.jpg>
> I need the diameter of the port itself. Not the
>
flange. Thanks guys.
>
> Jeff VanOrsdal
> 1991 Stealth
ESX Twin Turbo
>
jeffv@1nce.com>
> -----Original
Message-----
> From:
owner-team3s@team3s.com>
[mailto:owner-team3s@team3s.com]On Behalf
> Of Roger Gerl
> Sent:
Tuesday, January 29, 2002 11:39 AM
> To: Team3s Tech List
> Subject:
Re: Team3S: Manifold question
>
>
> It's not a diameter as
it is a rounded rectangle.
> The opening of the
> manifolds are
smaller than the exhaust port outlets
> thus there is room for
>
improvement (see my webpage under
>
http://www.rtec.ch/upgrade_project.html)
>
I also have original scans of the design drawing I
> got from Japan with
some
> measures on them. They are somewhere on my old
> geocities
page but I can
> also mail them tomorrow evening.
>
>
Roger
> 93'3000GT TT
>
www.rtec.ch>
>
> At 10:25
29.01.2002 -0500, Jeff VanOrsdal wrote:
> >Does anyone know the
diameter of the exhaust outlet
> on a stock TT exhaust
>
>manifold? Thanks.
> >
> >Jeff VanOrsdal
>
>1991 Stealth ESX Twin Turbo
>
>jeffv@1nce.com
=====
Please respond to
jczoom@iname.com'93 TT with Porsche
brakes and Supra TT rotors
12.4@109MPH
5/97 almost stock
http://www.geocities.com/motorcity/flats/4538***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 29 Jan 2002 22:53:03
-0800 (PST)
From: John Christian <
jczoom_619@yahoo.com>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: crankshaft --- yet again
Hi Jim,
I'll have one of each in
my garage by next week. My
91 block will be finished Wed and I should
be able to
pick up my 93 block next week. I'll stick a magnet
on
each and see what happens.
I took some pics today of the almost
complete lower
rebuild of my 93 block. Don't really think you'll
be
able to "see" any tell tale markings though.
Be of good
cheer,
John
- --- fastmax <
fastmax@cox.net> wrote:
> The next
question after our inability to figure out
> if the crank
> is
nitrided is to determine the construction.
>
> The first cranks
were supposed to be cast followed
> by a 'steel'
> version ---- any
idea of how to determine which is
> which. Is the
> new crank
forged, billet or just another casting.
>
> Anyone have pictures of
the crank --- especially in
> the area of
> the casting marks on
the counterweights. Anybody
> with a 2nd
> gen crank know what the
casting marks are.
>
>
> Jim
Berry
=====
Please respond to
jczoom@iname.com'93 TT with Porsche
brakes and Supra TT rotors
12.4@109MPH
5/97 almost stock
http://www.geocities.com/motorcity/flats/4538***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 30 Jan 2002 23:37:52
+1300
From: "Steve Cooper" <
scooper@paradise.net.nz>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: crankshaft --- yet again
I'll stick a magnet on
> each
and see what happens.
What's the magnet going to do, it'll
stick.
Steve
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 30 Jan 2002 16:33:14
-0600
From: "Dustin Lenz" <
dustin_lenz@hotmail.com>
Subject:
Team3S: Need ECU from a 95 vr-4 or md #192588
First thanks to all who
responded to my questions regarding my "transmission
nonsense". I
changed the fluid and yes, the 2nd gear syncro problem still
exists. I
am ready for war.
Now, I'm looking for an ECU which can be modified since
I was told by Matt @
DR that my 97 cannot. He also told me that my
stock boost gauge will not
work once I get the older ECU and upgrade
it. Are there any other options
out there? Anyone who has replaced the
three stock gauges? I really don't
like the idea of a gauge in my dash which
does not work. He told me that I
should get about 15 HP. Is this
accurate? Lastly, does anyone have the ECU
I can
buy?
Thanks,
Dustin
97 Red VR-4
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
End of Team3S: 3000GT &
Stealth V1
#740
***************************************
