Team3S: 3000GT & Stealth   Tuesday, January 29 2002   Volume 01 : Number 739




----------------------------------------------------------------------

Date: Mon, 28 Jan 2002 10:52:19 EST
From: Nxtkin@aol.com
Subject: Team3S: Converting to an AWD

I have a 1991 Steatlh R/T FWD. I am interested in converting it to an AWD.
Anyone out there done it before? If so, what kind of money can I expect to
spend on getting it done? Any reasons why I shouldn't have it done?

Bill Hollifield
nxtkin@aol.com

***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 28 Jan 2002 11:03:40 -0500
From: "Jeff VanOrsdal" <jeffv@1nce.com>
Subject: RE: Team3S: Converting to an AWD

For the money you'll spend, you could almost buy two older VR4s.  Even if
you did do it, you still wouldn't have all the other options the VR4 comes
with.  It's just not worth it.

Jeff VanOrsdal
1991 Stealth ESX Twin Turbo
jeffv@1nce.com

- -----Original Message-----
From: owner-team3s@team3s.com [mailto:owner-team3s@team3s.com]On Behalf
Of Nxtkin@aol.com
Sent: Monday, January 28, 2002 10:52 AM
To: team3s@stealth-3000gt.st
Subject: Team3S: Converting to an AWD

I have a 1991 Steatlh R/T FWD. I am interested in converting it to an AWD.
Anyone out there done it before? If so, what kind of money can I expect to
spend on getting it done? Any reasons why I shouldn't have it done?

Bill Hollifield
nxtkin@aol.com

***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 28 Jan 2002 10:01:21 -0600
From: overclck@ies.net (Cody Graham)
Subject: RE: Team3S: Converting to an AWD

Too much... Save your money, go sell your car and buy a VR4-TT

Seriously though, it will cost $2500 minimum for the transmission alone,
then the transfer case, then the rear differential, and half shafts, and
rear suspension, not to mention the rear suspension mounting points that
need to be modified...  You see where I'm going with this??

- -Cody

- -----Original Message-----
From: owner-team3s@team3s.com [mailto:owner-team3s@team3s.com] On Behalf
Of Nxtkin@aol.com
Sent: Monday, January 28, 2002 9:52 AM
To: team3s@stealth-3000gt.st
Subject: Team3S: Converting to an AWD

I have a 1991 Steatlh R/T FWD. I am interested in converting it to an
AWD.
Anyone out there done it before? If so, what kind of money can I expect
to
spend on getting it done? Any reasons why I shouldn't have it done?

Bill Hollifield
nxtkin@aol.com

***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 28 Jan 2002 17:28:32 +0100
From: Roger Gerl <roger.gerl@bluewin.ch>
Subject: Team3S: OT : Turbo car meeting in Switzerland

To all european Team3S members and their turbo-friends :

Informal Swiss Meeting

Date : 09.02.2002 (2002 February 02)
Time : 10:00
Where : Autobahnraststätte Würenlos
Highway rest area, between Bern & Zürich
Restaurant Mövenpick
Note You can walk on both sides of the rest area
GPS E 8°20'49.279" / N47°26'19.334"

Goal : Discuss everything about turbo performance cars / parts / tricks, etc.

This event is setup by a group of friends who all drive a Nissan 300ZX TT,
but it is fully
open to other turbo performance cars, 300/3000/Z/Zx/Supra/Evo/Rx-7/S2000
etc etc etc

Languages : French, English & German will be there .. others are welcome

Bring with you a great attitude, humor and enthusiasm, as well as tips &
tricks about the cars.
If you need something something (like a diag, or spare parts) just let us know.

Please avoid anything like loud mouth, strong opinion, "I want to race in
the streets",
"my car is better than yours" ... you got the point ! If anyone wants to
race each other,
then only about 15 minutes away is an indoor go-cart track at Spreitenbach.

Participation : Just drop an email to VG30DETT@Compuserve.com
include name, car model, and if possible your mobile phone number.
(to help you find the place if you get lost)

Please spread this email to our turbo-friends allover the place and for
sure we'll have great fun !

Zee you there

Henri, 300ZX TT, Dodge Stealth R/T and more
Roger 3000GT TT www.rtec.ch

***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***

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Date: Mon, 28 Jan 2002 09:10:24 -0800 (PST)
From: Jeff Lucius <stealthman92@yahoo.com>
Subject: Team3S: Compressor flow maps for 3S owners

I have a new web page available with compressor flow maps for our
cars and an explanation of how to read and interpret them. The flow
maps include the "raw" maps as available from the manufacturer, these
same maps cleaned up and re-scaled for CFM, and the maps with engine
demand lines drawn on them. I think there is something there for
everyone.

http://www.geocities.com/lutransys/jlucius5/j5-2-3s-compflowmaps.htm

Please let me know if I have missed something or obfuscated a topic
beyond comprehension. :)

Thanks.

Jeff Lucius, http://www.stealth316.com/

***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 28 Jan 2002 12:10:58 EST
From: ThorHolth@aol.com
Subject: Team3S: re:front end conversion

Cody: where did you get your parts? I have been looking for a replacement
rear bumper cover for my '91 R/T Turbo, and wanted to update it to the second
gen. cover.

- -thor

***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***

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Date: Mon, 28 Jan 2002 12:16:37 -0700
From: "Will Fortenberry" <BigWill_VR4@hotmail.com>
Subject: Re: Team3S: Question about front end conversion

Along the same lines, can one put the '99 headlights (not side markers) into
a 2nd gen bumper without major modifications? Do the wiring harnesses hook
up?

Thanks,
Will
94 VR-4

***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***

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Date: Mon, 28 Jan 2002 14:12:27 -0500
From: "Aamer" <aamer@thepentagon.com>
Subject: Re: Team3S: "Floppy Clutch Pedal" Post-Mortem

Nah, I wouldn't worry about that too much. When my slave cylinder blew, I
was leaking fluid very slowly also. Driving around 30 miles on an average
day, I would only have to add fluid maybe every week, if I recall correctly.
When I pulled out the slave cylinder, I took off the boot that went around
it and a bunch of fluid just poured right out of it. But other than that, it
didn't leak too badly.

Aamer Abbas
'94 3000GT (DOHC -- Naturally Aspirated)
email: aamer@thepentagon.com
fax: (707) 982-8817 [add +1 country code if faxing from outside the United
States]

- ----- Original Message -----
From: "Steve Cooper" <scooper@paradise.net.nz>
To: "Team3s Tech List" <Team3s@stealth-3000gt.st>
Sent: Monday, January 28, 2002 3:33 AM
Subject: Re: Team3S: "Floppy Clutch Pedal" Post-Mortem

> > Hi all,
> >
> > Just wanted to let folks know that y'all called it right: the slave
> cylinder
> > had blown out.  My fluid reservoir was nearly full, so I hadn't run out
of
> > fluid.
>
> That sounds a bit strange because if your slave cylinder had blown out you
> would have lost fluid and your reservoir would have been empty, unless you
> had topped it up of course and left air in the line. I just hope it wasn't
> one of these dodgey places that charges you for "imaginary " work done.
>
> Steve

***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 28 Jan 2002 14:17:29 -0500
From: "Aamer" <aamer@thepentagon.com>
Subject: Re: Team3S: Compressor flow maps for 3S owners

Jeff, I went to your link and you have five topics listed at the top of the
page, but there is nothing below the second topic. Is this a known issue or
something? I'm pretty sure it's not my browser because I opened the page
with two different browsers and had the same problem (I used Internet
Explorer 6 and Opera 6).

Aamer Abbas
'94 3000GT (DOHC -- Naturally Aspirated)
email: aamer@thepentagon.com
fax: (707) 982-8817 [add +1 country code if faxing from outside the United
States]

- ----- Original Message -----
From: "Jeff Lucius" <stealthman92@yahoo.com>
To: <team3s@stealth-3000gt.st>
Sent: Monday, January 28, 2002 12:10 PM
Subject: Team3S: Compressor flow maps for 3S owners

> I have a new web page available with compressor flow maps for our
> cars and an explanation of how to read and interpret them. The flow
> maps include the "raw" maps as available from the manufacturer, these
> same maps cleaned up and re-scaled for CFM, and the maps with engine
> demand lines drawn on them. I think there is something there for
> everyone.
>
> http://www.geocities.com/lutransys/jlucius5/j5-2-3s-compflowmaps.htm
>
> Please let me know if I have missed something or obfuscated a topic
> beyond comprehension. :)
>
> Thanks.
>
> Jeff Lucius, http://www.stealth316.com/

***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 28 Jan 2002 13:55:54 -0600
From: "Black, Dave (ICT)" <dblai@allstate.com>
Subject: RE: Team3S: Diagnosing knock vs. spark blowout?

Todd,

I still have stock fuel system.  Also, I have a 95VR4 and as I have been
told, I'm not able to use TMO or any type of datalogging for that matter....

Any other thoughts?

Dave 95VR4
http://www.daveblack.net

> -----Original Message-----
> From: Todd D.Shelton [SMTP:tds@brightok.net]
> Sent: Friday, January 25, 2002 9:09 PM
> To: Team 3S
> Subject: Re: Team3S: Diagnosing knock vs. spark blowout?
>
> >The problem is as follows:
> >basically I have a somewhat inconsistent problem with losing a lot of
> power
> >at about 4500rpm - 5500rpm in 2nd gear.  Sometimes if I hammer it down
> the
> >car will get up to 4500-5500rpm and sputter and really lose power.  I
> have
> a
> >K&N FIPK, Apexi S-AVCR @ 1.0 bar and Borla exhaust.  The car appears to
> >drive fine after the sputtering occurs - unfortunately I've already lost
> the
> >race...LOL
> >
> >>From what I have heard, it sounds to me like either knock or spark
> blowout.
> >I had the plugs changed and "supposedly" regapped to .034 about 7000 mi
> ago.
> >I have not yet changed the plug wires so I think it could also be that.
> >
> >My question is how I do differentiate between knock and spark blowout?
>
> --------------------------------------------------------------------------
>
> Injector size is not listed but I have hit fuel cut at ~ 1bar with stock
> injectors
> in colder weather/ambient temps.
>
> With larger 550+ injectors you shouldn't see fuel cut this low -
> at least I never have with a VPC.  There have been conditions
> which caused knock in this range and the effects were as described.
>
> There's no doubt when datalogging with the TMO ...
>
> - tds
> http://www.brightok.net/~tds

***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 28 Jan 2002 15:48:12 -0500
From: "Berrios, Victor L  CIV" <VLBerrios@rroads.med.navy.mil>
Subject: RE: Team3S: Question about front end conversion

Hi Will
A lot of the guys in the 3si board has done this. I read in one threat that
the harness fit OK.

Search on the 3si files and you'll find a lot of information about the 99
conversion (1st & 2nd generation.
I'm planning on doing the complete conversion (lights, side markers, front
bumper)
 
Here is a quote I got from "Conicelli Mitsu"

From: "John Roche" <jroche@conicelliautoplex.com>
> To: "SERVICE" <jmonteleone@conicelliautoplex.com>
> Sent: Monday, January 07, 2002 8:08 PM
> Subject: Re: Parts Order - Conicelli Mitsubishi
>
> > sir,
> > the bumper cover is $380.45
> > the headlamps are $445.50 each
> > the side markers are $53.25 each and shipping would probably run around
45
> > to 50 dollars
> > thank you
> > conicelli mitsu parts dept.

Good luck and let us know how it turns out.

Victor
'96 Peal White 3KGT VR-4
In process of '99 conversion.

- -----Original Message-----
From: Will Fortenberry [mailto:BigWill_VR4@hotmail.com]
Sent: Monday, January 28, 2002 7:17 PM
To: Cody Graham; 'Jannusch, Matt'; Team3S
Subject: Re: Team3S: Question about front end conversion

Along the same lines, can one put the '99 headlights (not side markers) into
a 2nd gen bumper without major modifications? Do the wiring harnesses hook
up?

Thanks,
Will
94 VR-4

***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 28 Jan 2002 12:26:59 -0800
From: Damon Rachell <damonr@mefas.com>
Subject: Re: Team3S: Diagnosing knock vs. spark blowout?

Try getting some 100 or 104 octane gas and adding 2-3 gallons to a tank.
  If the problem goes away, it's caused by knocking and you'll have to
reduce your boost.  Also, try a fuel injector cleaner like redline SI-1,
not SI-2 (much weaker).  Add a bottle to a full tank and that should
take care of any clogging in the injectors and some of the carbon
deposits in the combustion chamber.  This really helped my heistation
when I had it.  (or should I say, still have it).  I use 103 octane (3
gallons) per full tank of 91 because 91 is allwe can get in southern
california (I hate regulations).
Damon

Black, Dave (ICT) wrote:

> Todd,
>
> I still have stock fuel system.  Also, I have a 95VR4 and as I have been
> told, I'm not able to use TMO or any type of datalogging for that matter....
>
> Any other thoughts?
>
> Dave 95VR4
> http://www.daveblack.net
>
>>-----Original Message-----
>>From: Todd D.Shelton [SMTP:tds@brightok.net]
>>Sent: Friday, January 25, 2002 9:09 PM
>>To: Team 3S
>>Subject: Re: Team3S: Diagnosing knock vs. spark blowout?
>>
>>>The problem is as follows:
>>>basically I have a somewhat inconsistent problem with losing a lot of
>>>
>>power
>>
>>>at about 4500rpm - 5500rpm in 2nd gear.  Sometimes if I hammer it down
>>>
>>the
>>
>>>car will get up to 4500-5500rpm and sputter and really lose power.  I
>>>
>>have
>>a
>>
>>>K&N FIPK, Apexi S-AVCR @ 1.0 bar and Borla exhaust.  The car appears to
>>>drive fine after the sputtering occurs - unfortunately I've already lost
>>>
>>the
>>
>>>race...LOL
>>>
>>>>From what I have heard, it sounds to me like either knock or spark
>>>
>>blowout.
>>
>>>I had the plugs changed and "supposedly" regapped to .034 about 7000 mi
>>>
>>ago.
>>
>>>I have not yet changed the plug wires so I think it could also be that.
>>>
>>>My question is how I do differentiate between knock and spark blowout?
>>>
>>--------------------------------------------------------------------------
>>
>>Injector size is not listed but I have hit fuel cut at ~ 1bar with stock
>>injectors
>>in colder weather/ambient temps.
>>
>>With larger 550+ injectors you shouldn't see fuel cut this low -
>>at least I never have with a VPC.  There have been conditions
>>which caused knock in this range and the effects were as described.
>>
>>There's no doubt when datalogging with the TMO ...
>>
>>
>>- tds
>>http://www.brightok.net/~tds

***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 28 Jan 2002 21:41:27 +0100
From: "Roger Gerl" <roger.gerl@bluewin.ch>
Subject: Re: Team3S: Diagnosing knock vs. spark blowout?

> I am having a small problem that I am unsure how to diagnose.  I am
thinking
> the issue is either knock or spark blowout.  How do I differentiate
between
> the two?

As some already stated, to differentiate is not easy at all. Just some
add-ons :

- - The first things to do is indeed cleaning the injectors and other fuel
related stuff.
- - Next is to check out the fuel pump relay below the MAS and clean it's
conenctions.
- - If everything is fine try to borrow an A/F meter to see if you have a fuel
starvation in this area.

- - If fuel is ok ignition comes in mind. Remove the front plugs for
inspection and check the wires.
- - Clean boots and contacts with an electrical cleaner fluid
- - Also the coils come in mind as they get weaker over the years.

- - Finally, the stock BPV could become a problem due to it's age. It always
leaks a little as it is designed to do so for smooth operation but often it
is also know to leak more and therefore acts as a boost leak in the intake
what may cause such hesitations.

- - Last but not least check the batteries voltage at the problematic rpms as
I had this problem on a clints car and voltage fell to 11.3 volts around 5k.
Replacing the battery solved all problems.

Hope this helps.
Roger
93'3000GT TT
www.rtec.ch

***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 28 Jan 2002 15:10:09 -0600
From: "Jannusch, Matt" <mjannusch@marketwatch.com>
Subject: Team3S: Anyone need a VR4 motor?

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/aw-cgi/ebayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=600858688&
r=0&t=0

I don't know anything about it, other than it looks like a stock 2nd gen
motor...  Just noticed it when surfing around on eBay.  It is listed as
"complete", so I'd imagine it comes with turbos and such.

- -Matt
'95 3000GT Spyder VR4

***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 28 Jan 2002 15:14:28 -0600
From: "Willis, Charles E." <cewillis@TexasChildrensHospital.org>
Subject: Team3S: You won't believe this extended warranty story!

I bought a bumper to bumper extended warranty from
GS Administrators in Houston, Texas
on my '94 VR4 with 53K miles to last 4 years or 50K miles.

I have about 70K on the car now.  I replaced the clutch last fall.  At that
time, the Clutch Shop told me the synchros were failing and I should think
about having the tranny rebuilt.  So I drove around for a while and then
took it in to the Mitsubishi Dealer for evaluation.  GS Administrators sent
an independent inspector out who say the synchros are wearing out - normal
wear and tear, not covered.  I have a request in for a copy of the
inspection report.  Dan told me there is nothing to cover because there is
no broken part.  I asked if I could drive it until it failed
catastrophically, and then it would be covered, and he said basically, yes.

Can you believe this?  I wonder what else I wil break in the process?

Chuck

P.S.  They covered replacement of the front right wheel hub, which was nice.

***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 28 Jan 2002 15:27:03 -0600
From: Merritt <merritt@cedar-rapids.net>
Subject: Re: Team3S: You won't believe this extended warranty story!

Dan told me there is nothing to cover because there is
>no broken part.  I asked if I could drive it until it failed
>catastrophically, and then it would be covered, and he said basically, yes.
>
So go out and break it. A few full-throttle clutchless shifts oughta do it.

Rich

***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 28 Jan 2002 13:45:07 -0800 (PST)
From: Geoff Mohler <gemohler@www.speedtoys.com>
Subject: Re: Team3S: You won't believe this extended warranty story!

Nothin..just the tranny.

However, keep everything in writing, and ask for written explanation of
what "normal wear and tear" on a transmission is..in thier own words.  I
sense legal battle here when it does fail..and thier definition of wear &
tear on a tranny probly doesnt match what any reasonable professional
opinion would be.

On Mon, 28 Jan 2002, Willis, Charles E. wrote:

> I bought a bumper to bumper extended warranty from
> GS Administrators in Houston, Texas
> on my '94 VR4 with 53K miles to last 4 years or 50K miles.
>
> I have about 70K on the car now.  I replaced the clutch last fall.  At that
> time, the Clutch Shop told me the synchros were failing and I should think
> about having the tranny rebuilt.  So I drove around for a while and then
> took it in to the Mitsubishi Dealer for evaluation.  GS Administrators sent
> an independent inspector out who say the synchros are wearing out - normal
> wear and tear, not covered.  I have a request in for a copy of the
> inspection report.  Dan told me there is nothing to cover because there is
> no broken part.  I asked if I could drive it until it failed
> catastrophically, and then it would be covered, and he said basically, yes.
>
> Can you believe this?  I wonder what else I wil break in the process?
>
> Chuck
>
> P.S.  They covered replacement of the front right wheel hub, which was nice.

- ---
Geoff Mohler

***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 28 Jan 2002 13:49:44 -0800 (PST)
From: Geoff Mohler <gemohler@www.speedtoys.com>
Subject: Re: Team3S: You won't believe this extended warranty story!

I'll explain what I mean more here..

If you have grinding while shifting..thats not normal wear and tear.

If you dont..I dont see what the problem would be..that you called
about..unless it was just on your mechanics good word.  (Which is ok..they
may well be going bad, just are they grinding or not.)

On Mon, 28 Jan 2002, Geoff Mohler wrote:

> Nothin..just the tranny.
>
> However, keep everything in writing, and ask for written explanation of
> what "normal wear and tear" on a transmission is..in thier own words.  I
> sense legal battle here when it does fail..and thier definition of wear &
> tear on a tranny probly doesnt match what any reasonable professional
> opinion would be.
>
> On Mon, 28 Jan 2002, Willis, Charles E. wrote:
>
> > I bought a bumper to bumper extended warranty from
> > GS Administrators in Houston, Texas
> > on my '94 VR4 with 53K miles to last 4 years or 50K miles.
> >
> > I have about 70K on the car now.  I replaced the clutch last fall.  At that
> > time, the Clutch Shop told me the synchros were failing and I should think
> > about having the tranny rebuilt.  So I drove around for a while and then
> > took it in to the Mitsubishi Dealer for evaluation.  GS Administrators sent
> > an independent inspector out who say the synchros are wearing out - normal
> > wear and tear, not covered.  I have a request in for a copy of the
> > inspection report.  Dan told me there is nothing to cover because there is
> > no broken part.  I asked if I could drive it until it failed
> > catastrophically, and then it would be covered, and he said basically, yes.
> >
> > Can you believe this?  I wonder what else I wil break in the process?
> >
> > Chuck
> >
> > P.S.  They covered replacement of the front right wheel hub, which was nice.
> Geoff Mohler

- ---
Geoff Mohler

***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 28 Jan 2002 14:06:00 -0700
From: "Mike & Cathy" <micajoco@theofficenet.com>
Subject: Team3S: 95 2gen motor

Just saw Matts posting on a 95 vr-4 in ebay. Would this motor swap in a 92
r/t with out the any other changes?
Mike S 92 rt tt

***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 29 Jan 2002 08:18:41 +1000
From: M.Korsinczky@mailbox.uq.edu.au
Subject: Team3S: PARTS

Hey all

I desperately need a boss-head kit for my 1991 GTO.

I also need a starter motor, left front lower control arm and left side electric
window unit (small plastic piece).

Please respond ASAP if you have these for sale.

Thanks

Michael

***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 28 Jan 2002 16:33:18 -0600
From: "Jannusch, Matt" <mjannusch@marketwatch.com>
Subject: RE: Team3S: 95 2gen motor

> Just saw Matts posting on a 95 vr-4 in ebay. Would this motor
> swap in a 92 r/t with out the any other changes? Mike S 92 rt tt

There would probably be "some" modifications.  I'm not familiar with it
myself, but you might need the '95 ECU and some wiring patches to get all
the sensors to work right and such.  The '95 motor will have a cam angle
sensor on the rear exhaust cam, and a crank sensor.  If that'll work on a
'92 then you are in good shape for pretty much just bolting the thing in.

- -Matt
'95 3000GT Spyder VR4

***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 28 Jan 2002 17:32:42 -0500
From: "Joe Gonsowski" <twinturbo@mediaone.net>
Subject: Re: Team3S: Compressor flow maps for 3S owners

Very nice site, I bet you'll be getting more hits from DSM and other MHI
turbo users than 3S once the word spreads.  For future reference, will you
be linking this to your Garage or Technical Page?

Thanks once again for taking the time.

Later,
Joe G.

- ----- Original Message -----
From: "Jeff Lucius" <stealthman92@yahoo.com>
To: <team3s@stealth-3000gt.st>
Sent: Monday, January 28, 2002 12:10 PM
Subject: Team3S: Compressor flow maps for 3S owners

> I have a new web page available with compressor flow maps for our
> cars and an explanation of how to read and interpret them. The flow
> maps include the "raw" maps as available from the manufacturer, these
> same maps cleaned up and re-scaled for CFM, and the maps with engine
> demand lines drawn on them. I think there is something there for
> everyone.
>
> http://www.geocities.com/lutransys/jlucius5/j5-2-3s-compflowmaps.htm
>
> Please let me know if I have missed something or obfuscated a topic
> beyond comprehension. :)
>
> Thanks.
>
> Jeff Lucius, http://www.stealth316.com/

***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 28 Jan 2002 10:57:39 -0500
From: "Darren Schilberg" <dschilberg@pobox.com>
Subject: RE: Team3S: Converting to an AWD

If anyone has done this their recommendation has usually been to sell
your FWD and BUY an AWD.  Don't think a FWD will generally like the AWD
conversion.

You will need a center differential, rear differential, and steering
components for the All-Wheel Steering.  Then a driveshaft to the back, a
six-speed tranny (second gen VR-4s and up), intercoolers, turbos, the
works.

Also, the non-turbos were not made as stiff or heavy to take the abuse.
I'm sure spring rates are completely different, body chassis design,
anti-sway bars, etc.

People have done a 5-speed to a 6-speed conversion but it was already
Turbo (like a first gen Stealth TT to a 6-speed TT tranny).  Don't think
a FWD to AWD is cost effective.  Find a turbo with high mileage and
spend your $5k-$10k updating the engine and tranny if anything.

- --Flash!
1995 VR-4

- -----Original Message-----
From: Nxtkin@aol.com
Sent: Monday, January 28, 2002 10:52
 
I have a 1991 Steatlh R/T FWD. I am interested in converting it to an
AWD.
Anyone out there done it before? If so, what kind of money can I expect
to
spend on getting it done? Any reasons why I shouldn't have it done?

***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 28 Jan 2002 20:09:43 -0800
From: "Ken Middaugh" <kmiddaugh@ixpres.com>
Subject: Re: Team3S: 95 2gen motor

The easiest way to do this swap is to keep the 1st gen heads.  That way, you
can keep the camshaft angle sensor (CAS) and just plug in to your existing
harness, and use the existing ECU.  Actually, you only really need the 1st
gen camshaft set since it has the correct "bung" to drive the CAS.  You
could install these cams into the 2nd gen heads if you want.

Ken Middaugh
'91 VR4 with 4-bolt main conversion

- ----- Original Message -----
From: "Mike & Cathy" <micajoco@theofficenet.com>
To: "team3s stealth-3000gt" <team3s@stealth-3000gt.st>
Sent: Monday, January 28, 2002 1:06 PM
Subject: Team3S: 95 2gen motor

> Just saw Matts posting on a 95 vr-4 in ebay. Would this motor swap in a 92
> r/t with out the any other changes?
> Mike S 92 rt tt

***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 29 Jan 2002 06:52:28 -0500
From: "Berrios, Victor L  CIV" <VLBerrios@rroads.med.navy.mil>
Subject: RE: Team3S: Question about front end conversion

Jim:
Yes it's possible. Everything fix OK.
Check this thread
http://www.3si.org/vbb/showthread.php?s=8c7ec46a027b333f93ca6024a788e50a&thr
eadid=62162&highlight=99+conversion

Enjoy the conversion

Victor
'96 Pearl White 3KGT VR-4
In process of '99 conversion

- -----Original Message-----
From: Floyd, Jim [mailto:Jim_Floyd@maxtor.com]
Sent: Monday, January 28, 2002 7:58 PM
To: 'Berrios, Victor L CIV'
Subject: RE: Team3S: Question about front end conversion

I have a '95 VR4.
Is it possible to just install the '99 headlight and keep the rest
of my front end ?

- -----Original Message-----
From: Berrios, Victor L CIV [mailto:VLBerrios@rroads.med.navy.mil]
Sent: Monday, January 28, 2002 1:48 PM
To: 'Team3s@stealth-3000gt.st'
Subject: RE: Team3S: Question about front end conversion

Hi Will
A lot of the guys in the 3si board has done this. I read in one threat that
the harness fit OK.

Search on the 3si files and you'll find a lot of information about the 99
conversion (1st & 2nd generation.
I'm planning on doing the complete conversion (lights, side markers, front
bumper)
 
Here is a quote I got from "Conicelli Mitsu"

From: "John Roche" <jroche@conicelliautoplex.com>
> To: "SERVICE" <jmonteleone@conicelliautoplex.com>
> Sent: Monday, January 07, 2002 8:08 PM
> Subject: Re: Parts Order - Conicelli Mitsubishi
>
>
> > sir,
> > the bumper cover is $380.45
> > the headlamps are $445.50 each
> > the side markers are $53.25 each and shipping would probably run around
45
> > to 50 dollars
> > thank you
> > conicelli mitsu parts dept.

Good luck and let us know how it turns out.

Victor
'96 Peal White 3KGT VR-4
In process of '99 conversion.

- -----Original Message-----
From: Will Fortenberry [mailto:BigWill_VR4@hotmail.com]
Sent: Monday, January 28, 2002 7:17 PM
To: Cody Graham; 'Jannusch, Matt'; Team3S
Subject: Re: Team3S: Question about front end conversion

Along the same lines, can one put the '99 headlights (not side markers) into
a 2nd gen bumper without major modifications? Do the wiring harnesses hook
up?

Thanks,
Will
94 VR-4

***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 29 Jan 2002 07:56:18 -0500 (EST)
From: pagan@siscom.net
Subject: Team3S: Engine smoke on decel

Greetings all.

I have posted this on the 3si web board as well under the krank vent thread,
but wanted to throw it out here for some expert opinion as well.

I have a 93 R/T TT that smokes primarily when the car is decelerating.  I
thought it might have been caused by excessive crank case pressure and
bought a krank vent kit to fix it.  Well it appears that the krank vents are
doing there job as I don't have any oil leaking from my stock oil cap any
longer, but I still have smoke on deceleration.

The best way for me to make the car smoke is to run in 1st gear to about 4k
and then let the car decelerate with the clutch engaged to about 2500 and
then push in the clutch.  When the car comes to a complete stop, smoke
starts pouring out of the back.  I have personally always thought the smoke
was white with a blue hue, but a friend thought it looked very white from
behind me the other day.

Also, if I run the car up to 4k a few times in neutral after about the 3rd
time it will start to smoke on the decel.  If I run the car up in rpms in a
gear, let off and then get back on the throttle it will blow a small cloud
of smoke out of the exhaust.

If I start the car and let it idle (without running up the engine rpms) it
doesn't smoke at all.  The best that I can tell from conversations and
knowing that crank case ventilation is probably not an issue is that 1 or
both of my turbos are blowing some oil.

The car has 65k miles and the turbos were install late in June of last year.
I bought them used but they had just received a fresh rebuild and had not
yet been reinstalled.  They were TEC 13G.  I plan to pull the pipes away
from the compressor housing and see if I can find some excessive shaft play.
Any other ideas of what to check?  Could this problem be head related
instead of turbo related?

TIA.

Mark
'93 R/T TT

***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 29 Jan 2002 07:02:25 -0800
From: "Jim Berry" <fastmax@home.com>
Subject: Re: Team3S: Engine smoke on decel

Could be valve stem seals --- deceleration causes engine vacuum which tinds
to pull oil into the engine. A leakdown test could give you some info as to the
problem.

        Jim Berry
====================================================
- ----- Original Message -----
From: pagan@siscom.net
To: team3s@team3s.com

Greetings all.
I have a 93 R/T TT that smokes primarily when the car is decelerating.  I
thought it might have been caused by excessive crank case pressure and
bought a krank vent kit to fix it.  Well it appears that the krank vents are
doing there job as I don't have any oil leaking from my stock oil cap any
longer, but I still have smoke on deceleration.

The best way for me to make the car smoke is to run in 1st gear to about 4k
and then let the car decelerate with the clutch engaged to about 2500 and
then push in the clutch.  When the car comes to a complete stop, smoke
starts pouring out of the back.  I have personally always thought the smoke
was white with a blue hue, but a friend thought it looked very white from
behind me the other day.

Mark
'93 R/T TT

***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 29 Jan 2002 09:06:45 -0600
From: overclck@ies.net (Cody Graham)
Subject: RE: Team3S: Engine smoke on decel

My '95 Eclipse Turbo did this also.  It turned out to be a bad oil seal
in the turbo.  I would assume the same for yours.  What happened was any
time the engine was producing vacuum, the oil would pour into the
intake, and when it had a chance, made it into the engine and out the
exhaust as a bluish white smoke...

I think there is a possibility of it being a bad head gasket too.

- -Cody

- -----Original Message-----
From: owner-team3s@team3s.com [mailto:owner-team3s@team3s.com] On Behalf
Of pagan@siscom.net
Sent: Tuesday, January 29, 2002 6:56 AM
To: team3s@team3s.com
Subject: Team3S: Engine smoke on decel

Greetings all.

I have posted this on the 3si web board as well under the krank vent
thread,
but wanted to throw it out here for some expert opinion as well.

I have a 93 R/T TT that smokes primarily when the car is decelerating.
I
thought it might have been caused by excessive crank case pressure and
bought a krank vent kit to fix it.  Well it appears that the krank vents
are
doing there job as I don't have any oil leaking from my stock oil cap
any
longer, but I still have smoke on deceleration.

The best way for me to make the car smoke is to run in 1st gear to about
4k
and then let the car decelerate with the clutch engaged to about 2500
and
then push in the clutch.  When the car comes to a complete stop, smoke
starts pouring out of the back.  I have personally always thought the
smoke
was white with a blue hue, but a friend thought it looked very white
from
behind me the other day.

Also, if I run the car up to 4k a few times in neutral after about the
3rd
time it will start to smoke on the decel.  If I run the car up in rpms
in a
gear, let off and then get back on the throttle it will blow a small
cloud
of smoke out of the exhaust.

If I start the car and let it idle (without running up the engine rpms)
it
doesn't smoke at all.  The best that I can tell from conversations and
knowing that crank case ventilation is probably not an issue is that 1
or
both of my turbos are blowing some oil.

The car has 65k miles and the turbos were install late in June of last
year.
I bought them used but they had just received a fresh rebuild and had
not
yet been reinstalled.  They were TEC 13G.  I plan to pull the pipes away
from the compressor housing and see if I can find some excessive shaft
play.
Any other ideas of what to check?  Could this problem be head related
instead of turbo related?

TIA.

Mark
'93 R/T TT

***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 29 Jan 2002 10:20:43 -0500
From: pvg1@daimlerchrysler.com
Subject: Re: Team3S: Diagnosing knock vs. spark blowout?

Yeah, this sucks. If you fill 18 gallons per refueling then you fill 15
gallons of 91 octane and 3 gallons of 103 octane and you are only getting a
93 octane. This is like overpaying almost $10 per each gas tank of the 93
octane. But at least you are getting alcohol and water already included in
it for free!

Philip

Damon Rachell <damonr@mefas.com> wrote:
>I use 103 octane (3 gallons) per full tank of 91 because 91 is all
>we can get in southern california (I hate regulations).


***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 29 Jan 2002 10:25:58 -0500
From: "Jeff VanOrsdal" <jeffv@1nce.com>
Subject: Team3S: Manifold question

Does anyone know the diameter of the exhaust outlet on a stock TT exhaust
manifold?  Thanks.

Jeff VanOrsdal
1991 Stealth ESX Twin Turbo
jeffv@1nce.com

***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 29 Jan 2002 09:57:34 -0600
From: "Willis, Charles E." <cewillis@TexasChildrensHospital.org>
Subject: Team3S: replacement of front and rear antisway bars on '94 VR4

I was reading in the Service Manual about the antisway bar replacements to
get an idea of how much work is involved.  Appears that the front one
requires removing the left and right crossmember as well as the front
exhaust pipe.  The rear one seems easier, but requires support to the rear
differential and then lowering it a little to get the swaybar out.

Has anybody out there done this (besides Jim Floyd's mechanic)?

Chuck Willis

***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***

------------------------------

End of Team3S: 3000GT & Stealth V1 #739
***************************************