Team3S: 3000GT & Stealth   Sunday, January 27 2002   Volume 01 : Number 737




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Date: Fri, 25 Jan 2002 21:12:43 -0800 (PST)
From: Geoff Mohler <gemohler@www.speedtoys.com>
Subject: RE: Team3S: engine shut down

If you open-track, you learn the value of AAA+.  :^)

100miles.

Used both our cards 2 weekends ago.

On Sat, 26 Jan 2002, Darren Schilberg wrote:

> This is not of much help as hindsight is always 20/10 but for $50 a year
> you get AAA and I believe the standard towing distance is 50 miles (or
> that might be the Gold package since basic AAA is around $35).  That
> would cover the cost of a tow back to where you get the work done.  Plus
> you get all sorts of free maps, travel books, etc. from them.  Nice
> people even if the wait for a tow is a long time in bad weather.
>
> I do remember someone else on here having the same problem at speed.  My
> dad's old Subaru Wagon (pre-AWD on all Subaru cars) was cruising along a
> Georgia highway at 60 mph when all the needles except the speedo went to
> zero.  I think the only ones there were RPM, Speedo, and Battery but
> whatever they were it was like he shut the engine off and pushed in the
> clutch and we coasted for a while then pulled over when it stopped.
> Result was a timing belt had gone South (pardon the pun).  Not many
> Japan/Import shops down in the heart of Georgia.  Got a tow about 100
> miles into Savannah and waited a day for the part.
>
> Not sure what else goes at 70mph like that.  Starter doesn't matter.
> Alternator won't shut down the car like that (just make radio and lights
> get dim).  Fuel pump?  Distributor cap (or whatever our strip thing is
> called)?
>
> --Flash!
> 1995 VR-4
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Mike & Cathy
> Sent: Friday, January 25, 2002 16:46

> I need advice. My 92 rt tt Stealth quit at 70mph and will not restart.
> No
> check engine sign or anything. There is good spark and I can hear the
> fuel
> pump working. Iam 50 mile from where I have the work done on my car and
> any
> help to try and find whats wrong would be great. I know it could be many
> different reasons, but someone has had this happen and maybe I can fix
> it
> with out having the car towed.

- ---
Geoff Mohler

***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***

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Date: Sat, 26 Jan 2002 00:14:31 -0500
From: "Darren Schilberg" <dschilberg@pobox.com>
Subject: RE: Team3S: Speedometer

Similar question.  How accurate is everyone's odometer and trip odometer
to each other?  Mine are off slightly.  I thought it would be from the
winter 17" tires but with correct Plus Sizing (actually Minus Sizing
since I stepped down from stock size) I have maintained the correct
ratio.  That would not matter though since the speedometer is read off
of the moving internals and not the wheels.  Is this the same place the
trip odometer reads from?

I wanted to reset the car at the 80,000 mark and in 888.8 miles have a
nice 88,888 on the odometer and 888.8 on the trip odometer dial then
cruise at 88 mph and snap a picture ... that would be neat.

Problem is ... by the time I got 888 miles away from my zero mark (which
was actually 80,000) the odometer read 80,888.0 and the trip odometer
read (I believe) 888.8.  I'm rounding to show that in about 888 miles
the trip odometer was 0.8 miles ahead.  Not much I realize but in 1,000
miles this will mean the trip odometer is ahead by 1.0 mile (give or
take a few thousand feet).  Does anyone else have ideas about what
theirs reads after 500 or 1,000 miles of not resetting the trip
odometer?  Does that mean the speedometer is not accurate (like I am
doing 65 mph but the cop sees me at 60 mph or 70 mph ... hopefully the
lower number)?

And in 100,000 miles the car trip odometer will be off about 100.0
miles.  Ouch.

- --Flash!
1995 VR-4
Better gas mileage when compared to the trip than the real odometer

- -----Original Message-----
From: Stephen C. Kempf
Sent: Friday, January 25, 2002 18:12
 
Here's a question I could use some feedback on. Recently the speedometer
on my 1995 Dodge Stealth ES (dual overhead cam V6). The service manuals
that I bought when I purchased the car say that the speedometer uses an
electronic controller rather than a cable to the engine. However, when I
took the car in for service, the mechanic says that it actually has a
mechanical cable and that's what needs to be replaced.

Can anyone offer any insight about this contradictory information? Did
early 1995s or perhaps late 1994s have a mechanical cable?

***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***

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Date: Fri, 25 Jan 2002 23:28:35 -0600 (CST)
From: "Stephen C. Kempf" <kempfsc@mail.auburn.edu>
Subject: Team3S: timing

Mike,

There are instructions for checking the timing on your car at,

http://www.Team3S.com/FAQtiming.htm

Since you've had your timing belt replaced recently, if it did slip, it's
very likely that the belt tensioner was not adjusted properly when it was
reinstalled. This requires a special tool and following the instructions
in the service manual. This happened to me when i had my belt replaced. It
jumped 5 teeth on the rear intake cam. After getting a new belt
re-installed correctly, it still runs.

Steve

Date: Fri, 25 Jan 2002 18:14:08 -0700
From: "Mike & Cathy" <micajoco@theofficenet.com>
Subject: Team3S: Timing belt

I found out I may have jumped a tooth on the timing belt. What are the
odds the valves and pistons made contact? Other than a tear down is there
a way to check the timing belt? It hasn't been to long since it was
changed.  Mike S 92 r/t tt Wash. St.
______________________________________
You start with a bag full of luck
and an empty bag of experience.
The trick is to fill the bag of
experience before you empty the bag of
luck. - anonymous
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~

Stephen C. Kempf
Associate Professor
Depart. of Biological Sciences
131 Cary Hall
Auburn University, AL  36849
USA
Tel: 334-844-3924
Fax: 334-844-4065

Faculty Director-AU Hybridoma Facility
http://www.auburn.edu/research/hybridoma/

***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 26 Jan 2002 09:43:07 -0600 (CST)
From: "Stephen C. Kempf" <kempfsc@mail.auburn.edu>
Subject: Team3S: Oops! Correction

My brain slipped a connection or two yesterday and I put the wrong year
down for my car in the question about a speedometer problem. So, in case
anyone has any input, here's the corrected version,

Here's a question I could use some feedback on. Recently the speedometer
on my 1993 Dodge Stealth ES (dual overhead cam V6). The service manuals
that I bought when I purchased the car say that the speedometer uses an
electronic controller rather than a cable to the engine. However, when I
took the car in for service, the mechanic says that it actually has a
mechanical cable and that's what needs to be replaced.

Can anyone offer any insight about this contradictory information? Did
early 1993s or perhaps late 1992s have a mechanical cable?

I should add that what I say about the description in the service manual
is my own interpretation and perhaps I'm misunderstanding something.

Also, if it helps, the speedometer stopped working at the exact instant
when my wife turned tried to turn on the cruise control (which doesn't
work now either). There had been no symptoms, i.e. unsteady (shakey)
speedometer pointer, prior to the breakdown.

Thank you,

Steve Kempf

***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 26 Jan 2002 08:41:36 -0700
From: Wayne <whietala@prodigy.net>
Subject: Re: Team3S: Oops! Correction

I was always under the impression that turbo cars were the only ones that
had an electric speedo, and all others were cable driven. After searching
through CAPS, i find that it lists both for non-turbos, but it does not
give any production dates, so i guess you could have either one. One way to
find out is look at the tranny near the clutch slave, and see if you have a
cable sticking out of the top, or if it has a harness connection.

Wayne

At 09:43 AM 1/26/02 -0600, Stephen C. Kempf wrote:

>Here's a question I could use some feedback on. Recently the speedometer
>on my 1993 Dodge Stealth ES (dual overhead cam V6). The service manuals
>that I bought when I purchased the car say that the speedometer uses an
>electronic controller rather than a cable to the engine. However, when I
>took the car in for service, the mechanic says that it actually has a
>mechanical cable and that's what needs to be replaced.
>
>Can anyone offer any insight about this contradictory information? Did
>early 1993s or perhaps late 1992s have a mechanical cable?
>
>I should add that what I say about the description in the service manual
>is my own interpretation and perhaps I'm misunderstanding something.
>
>Also, if it helps, the speedometer stopped working at the exact instant
>when my wife turned tried to turn on the cruise control (which doesn't
>work now either). There had been no symptoms, i.e. unsteady (shakey)
>speedometer pointer, prior to the breakdown.
>
>Thank you,
>
>Steve Kempf

***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 26 Jan 2002 12:19:47 -0600 (CST)
From: "Stephen C. Kempf" <kempfsc@mail.auburn.edu>
Subject: Team3S: Speedometer

Thanks to those who responded. Apparently I was mistakenly looking at the
part of the service manual dealing with the twin-turbo. The Stealth ES
does have a mechanical speedometer system. Sorry I wasted everyone's time
on this.

Steve

***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***

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Date: Sat, 26 Jan 2002 10:42:46 -0800
From: "Andrew D. Woll" <awoll1@pacbell.net>
Subject: Re: Team3S: engine shut down

Good advice regarding AAA Daren.  I learned it the hard way when I had an
accident in the Nevada desert. Since then I have had the premium AAA plan.
Just paid the premium the other day. $119 to cover my wife and myself with
100 mile tow.

Andy
- -----Original Message-----
From: Darren Schilberg <dschilberg@pobox.com>
To: 'team3s' <team3s@stealth-3000gt.st>
Date: Friday, January 25, 2002 9:08 PM
Subject: RE: Team3S: engine shut down

>This is not of much help as hindsight is always 20/10 but for $50 a year
>you get AAA and I believe the standard towing distance is 50 miles (or
>that might be the Gold package since basic AAA is around $35).  That
>would cover the cost of a tow back to where you get the work done.  Plus
>you get all sorts of free maps, travel books, etc. from them.  Nice
>people even if the wait for a tow is a long time in bad weather.
>
>I do remember someone else on here having the same problem at speed.  My
>dad's old Subaru Wagon (pre-AWD on all Subaru cars) was cruising along a
>Georgia highway at 60 mph when all the needles except the speedo went to
>zero.  I think the only ones there were RPM, Speedo, and Battery but
>whatever they were it was like he shut the engine off and pushed in the
>clutch and we coasted for a while then pulled over when it stopped.
>Result was a timing belt had gone South (pardon the pun).  Not many
>Japan/Import shops down in the heart of Georgia.  Got a tow about 100
>miles into Savannah and waited a day for the part.
>
>Not sure what else goes at 70mph like that.  Starter doesn't matter.
>Alternator won't shut down the car like that (just make radio and lights
>get dim).  Fuel pump?  Distributor cap (or whatever our strip thing is
>called)?
>
>--Flash!
>1995 VR-4
>
>-----Original Message-----
>From: Mike & Cathy
>Sent: Friday, January 25, 2002 16:46
>
>I need advice. My 92 rt tt Stealth quit at 70mph and will not restart.
>No
>check engine sign or anything. There is good spark and I can hear the
>fuel
>pump working. Iam 50 mile from where I have the work done on my car and
>any
>help to try and find whats wrong would be great. I know it could be many
>different reasons, but someone has had this happen and maybe I can fix
>it
>with out having the car towed.

***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 26 Jan 2002 13:52:03 -0500
From: "Darren Schilberg" <dschilberg@pobox.com>
Subject: RE: Team3S: engine shut down

Yeah, unfortunately we all learn some things the hard way.  I'm still
looking for the answer to the shutdown so I don't have it happen to
mine.  Had the 60k done and if it is the timing belt then I'm sitting
pretty.  If it is something else (pressure plate on clutch/flywheel let
go and thus no more power transmitted through) then I'll be a little
wary.

And back East you can't go 25 miles without seeing something.  Even back
country is usually a mobile home or something.  If I were to trip out
West I would be sure to have plenty of water, cell phone, signaling
devices (mirror, flare, matches, etc.), yadda, yadda, yadda.  Guess
those people in the no-man's-land just get used to having confidence to
go 100 miles between civilization.

- --Flash!
1995 VR-4

- -----Original Message-----
From: Andrew D. Woll
Sent: Saturday, January 26, 2002 13:43
 
Good advice regarding AAA Daren.  I learned it the hard way when I had
an
accident in the Nevada desert. Since then I have had the premium AAA
plan.
Just paid the premium the other day. $119 to cover my wife and myself
with
100 mile tow.

***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***

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Date: Sat, 26 Jan 2002 16:24:15 -0800
From: ARMIN MEIER <guetch@shaw.ca>
Subject: Re: Team3S: Alternator problems 94 Stealth r/t turbo

Hello all the Experts,

Had a shocker in the morning the battery was flat, dead, zilch. No,  I did
not leave the door open or lights on.
The alternator regulator packed it in and the field current was sugging down
the battery over night. I guess with 2.5 amps. it wouldn't take this long.
Now were can I find the IC regulator assembly?
Any ideas as Chrysler in Canada has no close  relations with Mitsu anymore.
Maybe your list of mitsu dealers is a good start.

Thanks

Armin

***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***

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Date: Wed, 26 Jan 2000 19:37:50 -0500
From: "bdtrent" <bdtrent@netzero.net>
Subject: Team3S: Pocket Logger Data Transfer

I'm new to this PDA thing so I apologize if I've missed the obvious, but is
there a way to get my pocket logger data onto my pc during hotsync?

Thanks in advance,
DaveT/92TT

***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***

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Date: Sat, 26 Jan 2002 16:43:06 -0800
From: Damon Rachell <damonr@mefas.com>
Subject: Re: Team3S: Alternator problems 94 Stealth r/t turbo

Here's a page from carparts.com that sells voltage regulators for the
alternator.  Check with junk yards also.  I got a used alternator,
complete, off of a 98 VR-4 for $75!  Was well worth the cost savings.

Damon

http://www.carparts.com/parts/sample.asp?reflink=52341-0-0-0-0&SegmentId=1&parttypeid=17011&vehicleid=52341&catalogid=&partnum=NONE&dc=

ARMIN MEIER wrote:

> Hello all the Experts,
>
> Had a shocker in the morning the battery was flat, dead, zilch. No,  I did
> not leave the door open or lights on.
> The alternator regulator packed it in and the field current was sugging down
> the battery over night. I guess with 2.5 amps. it wouldn't take this long.
> Now were can I find the IC regulator assembly?
> Any ideas as Chrysler in Canada has no close  relations with Mitsu anymore.
> Maybe your list of mitsu dealers is a good start.
>
> Thanks
>
> Armin

***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 26 Jan 2002 23:07:35 -0500
From: "Robert Booker" <nsubooker@earthlink.net>
Subject: Re: Team3S: Oops! Correction

Ahh. Yes, the 93 DOHC non-turbo does indeed have a mechanical cable. Like I
said before, I broke 3 of them in a little under 2 years, and I have become
very proficient at replacing them. Your symptoms of everything working
except the speedo, odometer and cruise are dead on.  The most common
breaking point is where the cable attaches to the transmission. You can
inspect this by removing the intake tube, from where it leaves the
Airbox/FIPK (don't know if you have any mods) and attaches to the throttle
body. There are 2 clamps, one at each end of the tube that can be loostened
and the tube removed as a whole. You will see a black cable, about the
diameter of a pencil, coming from the firewall, and screwing into the
differential case of the tranny. It has a silver collar that you can unscrew
and then there is a brass "key" that fits down into the transmission. The
connection of the "key" and cable is where mine broke all 3 times. If yours
is indeed broken, you should call Talahassee Mitsu. and order a new one,
they give list discounts.

Matt
3/Si #311
'93 Stealth R/T Na
'00 Intrepid

> My brain slipped a connection or two yesterday and I put the wrong year
> down for my car in the question about a speedometer problem. So, in case
> anyone has any input, here's the corrected version,
>
> Here's a question I could use some feedback on. Recently the speedometer
> on my 1993 Dodge Stealth ES (dual overhead cam V6). The service manuals
> that I bought when I purchased the car say that the speedometer uses an
> electronic controller rather than a cable to the engine. However, when I
> took the car in for service, the mechanic says that it actually has a
> mechanical cable and that's what needs to be replaced.
>
> Can anyone offer any insight about this contradictory information? Did
> early 1993s or perhaps late 1992s have a mechanical cable?

> I should add that what I say about the description in the service manual
> is my own interpretation and perhaps I'm misunderstanding something.
>
> Also, if it helps, the speedometer stopped working at the exact instant
> when my wife turned tried to turn on the cruise control (which doesn't
> work now either). There had been no symptoms, i.e. unsteady (shakey)
> speedometer pointer, prior to the breakdown.

***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 27 Jan 2002 07:46:22 -0500
From: "WALTER D. BEST" <WDBO39@erols.com>
Subject: Re: Team3S: mobil 1 75/90

Yes I have been running Mobil 1 since the car had 1000 miles on it, I now
have over 103,000 miles.  You won't have nay problems with the 5-speed
transmission or transfer case.  GL-5 is only an issue if you have the newer
6-speed trans with the brass and copper (softer metal) bushing.

It even says it's ok to run it in my 92 shop manual.

Dave Best

P.S. I also still on the OE clutch

- ----- Original Message -----
From: "Mike & Cathy" <micajoco@theofficenet.com>
To: <team3s@stealth-3000gt.st>
Sent: Wednesday, January 23, 2002 11:01 PM
Subject: Team3S: mobil 1 75/90

> Has anyone tried using Mobil 1 75/90 synthetic in a 5-speed trans?
> Mike 92 rt tt

***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***

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End of Team3S: 3000GT & Stealth V1 #737
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