Team3S: 3000GT & Stealth Friday, January 25
2002 Volume 01 : Number
736
----------------------------------------------------------------------
Date:
Fri, 25 Jan 2002 18:11:43 +1300
From: "Steve Cooper" <
scooper@paradise.net.nz>
Subject:
Team3S: Stupid question about NOx
. Thing is, Nitrous is not
combustible, Oxygen is.
No Oxygen is not combustible, neither is Nitrous
oxide, they are both
classified as oxidisers which means they support
combustion.
NOS is chemical supercharging and described as a power adder
in your
dragracing rulebook, alongside mechanical supercharging and
turbocharging.
Depending on your local rules, ours are based on NDRA
rules , you are only
allowed one power adder, therefore if you've got turbos
you can't have NOS
as well ( can still cheat
though)
Steve
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 25 Jan 2002 09:18:54
-0600
From: "Willis, Charles E." <
cewillis@TexasChildrensHospital.org>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: balancing wheels
IMHO, this is a cosmetic thing - fancy
wheels don't look nice with a hunk
of lead hanging on the rim. I much
prefer to have the flat lead weights
that have adhesive backing on the inside
of the wheel, even over than those
hung on the inside rim where there is the
possibility of interference with
the strut or caliper. I think the guys
can do a more accurate job of
balancing the wheel when the weight can be
positioned anywhere inboard or
ouboard of the center of gravity of the
wheel.
Chuck Willis
- -----Original Message-----
From: Bill
vp
To: team3/S
Sent: 01/24/2002 5:26 PM
Subject: Team3S: balancing
wheels
I have heard that when we get our wheels balanced (I have a '91
R/T tt)
that
we have to make sure that the wheel weights are put on the
inside of the
wheel. Is this correct? Is this unique to our cars,
and if so why?
thanks,
Bill
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 25 Jan 2002 09:22:05
-0600
From: "Willis, Charles E." <
cewillis@TexasChildrensHospital.org>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: Looking for 550cc Injectors
Yeah, in five seasons at
the track, I've never had this happen at WOT, but
I've also never seen the
car boost up to 18 psi. I think something is wrong
with my DSBC or BOV,
becuase neither should allow such excursions. thanks
for explaining how
the ECU can't compensate and just shuts the whole think
down to get some
relief!
Chuck
- -----Original Message-----
From: bdtrent
To:
Team 3S
Sent: 01/03/1980 5:48 PM
Subject: Re: Team3S: Looking for 550cc
Injectors
Chuck,
I can't speak to your set-up, but if your not
running larger injectors
with
a corrasponding MAF correction i.e. an AFC
or ARC2, than your pulling in
far
more air than your injector duty cycle
can keep up with. As a last
ditch
effort to avoid leaning out, your
ECU simply shuts down your entire fuel
system. Prior to fuel cut you
usually notice a stutter or intermittant
accelleration. If you continue
to ignore the intermittant miss than
your
ECU resorts to completely
cutting fuel. I hadn't experienced these
symptoms
since I was trying
to pull to much boost out of my stock injectors prior
to
upgrading my fuel
system a number of year ago.
Regards,
DaveT/92TT
***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 25 Jan 2002 08:41:31
-0700
From: "Rick" <
rcousar@datawest.net>
Subject:
Team3S: Enough about NOx
Please guy enough with the Nos, this
subject has been beat to hell. If
someone wants to blow thier car let them,
but lets talk about something
else. By the way does anyone know any good
links for blue printing and
balancing engines?
- ----- Original Message
-----
From: Jim Berry <
fastmax@home.com>
To: <
3sracers@speedtoys.com>; <
talon-digest@dsm.org>;
<
Team3S@stealth-3000gt.st>; Merritt
<
merritt@cedar-rapids.net>
Sent:
Thursday, January 24, 2002 7:51 AM
Subject: Re: Team3S: Stupid question about
NOx
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: Merritt
<
merritt@cedar-rapids.net>
>
>
> OK, so NOx costs $40 a bottle, but I could run a whole mess of NOx
for
the
> > thousands of dollars the other mods cost.
>
>
> > What's the downside of running NOx on a road
course?
>
> Running out of NOX !!! Remember, power is
addictive.
>
> Jim
Berry
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 25 Jan 2002 11:15:02
-0500
From: "Darren Schilberg" <
dschilberg@pobox.com>
Subject: RE:
Team3S: Enough about NOx
No techie stuff here but Rich already stopped
this. Last email I see
was the one you included which was yesterday at
8 in the morning (Rich
killed it at 14:29 on my machine). There was one
more follow-up for
safety reasons (combustibility) this morning at 00:11 but
that was about
the only one since Rich told us to stop already. So I
think we HAVE
killed the topic already ... have YOU killed it yet?
I
would check Lucius' webpage for links to what you are looking for.
-
--Flash!
P.S. What's wrong with hitting the Delete key anyway?
<smirk>
- -----Original Message-----
From:
owner-team3s@team3s.com
[mailto:owner-team3s@team3s.com] On Behalf
Of Rick
Sent: Friday, January
25, 2002 10:42
To:
Team3S@stealth-3000gt.stSubject:
Team3S: Enough about NOx
Please guy enough with the Nos, this
subject has been beat to hell. If
someone wants to blow thier car let them,
but lets talk about something
else. By the way does anyone know any good
links for blue printing and
balancing engines?
- ----- Original Message
-----
From: Jim Berry <
fastmax@home.com>
To: <
3sracers@speedtoys.com>; <
talon-digest@dsm.org>;
<
Team3S@stealth-3000gt.st>; Merritt
<
merritt@cedar-rapids.net>
Sent:
Thursday, January 24, 2002 7:51 AM
Subject: Re: Team3S: Stupid question about
NOx
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: Merritt <
merritt@cedar-rapids.net>
>
>
> OK, so NOx costs $40 a bottle, but I could run a whole mess of
NOx
for
the
> > thousands of dollars the other mods cost.
>
>
> > What's the downside of running NOx on a road
course?
>
> Running out of NOX !!! Remember, power is
addictive.
>
> Jim
Berry
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 25 Jan 2002 09:09:26
-0800 (PST)
From: Geoff Mohler <
gemohler@www.speedtoys.com>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Enough about NOx
No, but lets look at those two
terms.
Blueprinting. This means you build a motor to specs.
Common in Destroit
build cars..coz the tolerances are SO wide.
Factoid: John Lingenfelter
got started in the performance biz by simply
rebuilding new Chevy motors
to tight OEM tolerances...most people saw about a
40Hp gain with nothing
but OEM hardware. Import cars rarely require
blueprinting, as the
tolerances as so incredibly tight in the first
place. make sure you dont
pay for the word 'blueprinting'..coz on your
car it just means built
within spec.
Balancing..yes, good for high RPM
applications or endurance. Ask for
4-way balancing on your rods.
Lots of reliability to be gained in good
balancing.
On Fri, 25 Jan
2002, Rick wrote:
> Please guy enough with the Nos, this subject
has been beat to hell. If
> someone wants to blow thier car let them, but
lets talk about something
> else. By the way does anyone know any good
links for blue printing and
> balancing engines?
> ----- Original
Message -----
> From: Jim Berry <
fastmax@home.com>
> To: <
3sracers@speedtoys.com>; <
talon-digest@dsm.org>;
> <
Team3S@stealth-3000gt.st>; Merritt
<
merritt@cedar-rapids.net>
>
Sent: Thursday, January 24, 2002 7:51 AM
> Subject: Re: Team3S: Stupid
question about NOx
>
> > ----- Original Message -----
>
> From: Merritt <
merritt@cedar-rapids.net>
>
>
> > > OK, so NOx costs $40 a bottle, but I could run a whole
mess of NOx for
> the
> > > thousands of dollars the other
mods cost.
> > >
> > > What's the downside of running
NOx on a road course?
> >
> > Running out of NOX !!!
Remember, power is addictive.
> >
>
> Jim Berry
-
---
Geoff Mohler
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 25 Jan 2002 13:38:57
-0600
From: "Black, Dave (ICT)" <
dblai@allstate.com>
Subject: Team3S:
Diagnosing knock vs. spark blowout?
I am having a small problem that I am
unsure how to diagnose. I am thinking
the issue is either knock or
spark blowout. How do I differentiate between
the two?
The
problem is as follows:
basically I have a somewhat inconsistent problem with
losing a lot of power
at about 4500rpm - 5500rpm in 2nd gear. Sometimes
if I hammer it down the
car will get up to 4500-5500rpm and sputter and
really lose power. I have a
K&N FIPK, Apexi S-AVCR @ 1.0 bar and
Borla exhaust. The car appears to
drive fine after the sputtering
occurs - unfortunately I've already lost the
race...LOL
From what I
have heard, it sounds to me like either knock or spark blowout.
I had the
plugs changed and "supposedly" regapped to .034 about 7000 mi ago.
I have not
yet changed the plug wires so I think it could also be that.
My question
is how I do differentiate between knock and spark blowout?
Dave
95VR4
http://www.daveblack.net***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 25 Jan 2002 14:20:59
-0600
From: "Black, Dave (ICT)" <
dblai@allstate.com>
Subject: RE:
Team3S: Looking for 550cc Injectors
Chuck,
Have you looked for a
vacuum leak? This could account for your overboost.
Dave
95VR4
http://www.daveblack.net>
-----Original Message-----
> From: Willis, Charles E.
[SMTP:cewillis@TexasChildrensHospital.org]
> Sent: Friday, January 25,
2002 9:22 AM
> To: 'bdtrent '; 'Team 3S '
> Subject: RE: Team3S:
Looking for 550cc Injectors
>
> Yeah, in five seasons at the
track, I've never had this happen at WOT,
> but
> I've also never
seen the car boost up to 18 psi. I think something is
>
wrong
> with my DSBC or BOV, becuase neither should allow such
excursions. thanks
> for explaining how the ECU can't compensate and
just shuts the whole think
> down to get some relief!
>
>
Chuck
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: bdtrent
>
To: Team 3S
> Sent: 01/03/1980 5:48 PM
> Subject: Re: Team3S:
Looking for 550cc Injectors
>
> Chuck,
>
> I can't
speak to your set-up, but if your not running larger injectors
>
with
> a corrasponding MAF correction i.e. an AFC or ARC2, than your
pulling in
> far
> more air than your injector duty cycle can keep
up with. As a last
> ditch
> effort to avoid leaning out, your
ECU simply shuts down your entire fuel
> system. Prior to fuel cut
you usually notice a stutter or intermittant
> accelleration. If you
continue to ignore the intermittant miss than
> your
> ECU resorts
to completely cutting fuel. I hadn't experienced these
>
symptoms
> since I was trying to pull to much boost out of my stock
injectors prior
> to
> upgrading my fuel system a number of year
ago.
>
> Regards,
> DaveT/92TT
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 25 Jan 2002 14:56:03
-0600
From: "Willis, Charles E." <
cewillis@TexasChildrensHospital.org>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: Looking for 550cc Injectors
not yet, good thinking. The
line to the Boost gauge is apparently still
intact - maybe there is a leak in
the sense line to the DBSC ...
- -----Original Message-----
From: Black,
Dave (ICT)
To: 'Willis, Charles E.'
Cc: Team3s (E-mail)
Sent:
01/25/2002 2:20 PM
Subject: RE: Team3S: Looking for 550cc
Injectors
Chuck,
Have you looked for a vacuum leak? This
could account for your
overboost.
Dave 95VR4
http://www.daveblack.net>
-----Original Message-----
> From: Willis, Charles E.
[SMTP:cewillis@TexasChildrensHospital.org]
> Sent: Friday, January 25,
2002 9:22 AM
> To: 'bdtrent '; 'Team 3S '
> Subject: RE: Team3S:
Looking for 550cc Injectors
>
> Yeah, in five seasons at the
track, I've never had this happen at
WOT,
> but
> I've also never
seen the car boost up to 18 psi. I think something is
>
wrong
> with my DSBC or BOV, becuase neither should allow such
excursions.
thanks
> for explaining how the ECU can't compensate and
just shuts the whole
think
> down to get some relief!
>
>
Chuck
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: bdtrent
>
To: Team 3S
> Sent: 01/03/1980 5:48 PM
> Subject: Re: Team3S:
Looking for 550cc Injectors
>
> Chuck,
>
> I can't
speak to your set-up, but if your not running larger injectors
>
with
> a corrasponding MAF correction i.e. an AFC or ARC2, than your
pulling
in
> far
> more air than your injector duty cycle can
keep up with. As a last
> ditch
> effort to avoid leaning out,
your ECU simply shuts down your entire
fuel
> system. Prior to
fuel cut you usually notice a stutter or
intermittant
>
accelleration. If you continue to ignore the intermittant miss
than
> your
> ECU resorts to completely cutting fuel. I hadn't
experienced these
> symptoms
> since I was trying to pull to much
boost out of my stock injectors
prior
> to
> upgrading my fuel
system a number of year ago.
>
> Regards,
>
DaveT/92TT
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 25 Jan 2002 14:46:11
-0700
From: "Mike & Cathy" <
micajoco@theofficenet.com>
Subject:
Team3S: engine shut down
I need advice. My 92 rt tt Stealth quit at 70mph
and will not restart. No
check engine sign or anything. There is good spark
and I can hear the fuel
pump working. Iam 50 mile from where I have the work
done on my car and any
help to try and find whats wrong would be great. I
know it could be many
different reasons, but someone has had this happen and
maybe I can fix it
with out having the car towed.
Mike S 92 r/t
tt
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 25 Jan 2002 17:11:31
-0600 (CST)
From: "Stephen C. Kempf" <
kempfsc@mail.auburn.edu>
Subject:
Team3S: Speedometer
Here's a question I could use some feedback on.
Recently the speedometer
on my 1995 Dodge Stealth ES (dual overhead cam V6).
The service manuals
that I bought when I purchased the car say that the
speedometer uses an
electronic controller rather than a cable to the engine.
However, when I
took the car in for service, the mechanic says that it
actually has a
mechanical cable and that's what needs to be replaced.
Can anyone offer any insight about this contradictory information?
Did
early 1995s or perhaps late 1994s have a mechanical cable?
Thank
you,
Steve Kempf
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 3 Jan 1980 19:17:30
-0500
From: "bdtrent" <
bdtrent@netzero.net>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: Diagnosing knock vs. spark blowout?
Dave,
Don't rule out
the early stages of fuel cut. Have you checked your IDC on
your
AVC-R? Your symptoms sound exactly like mine during cold weather
with
too much boost. You will know for sure if your ECU resorts to the
next
stage of fuel cut - complete fuel shut off at WOT. Knock would be
far more
subtle and likely to be much worse in 3rd than
2nd.
Regards,
DaveT/92TT
- ----- Original Message
-----
From: "Black, Dave (ICT)" <
dblai@allstate.com>
To: <
stealth@starnet.net>; "Team3s (E-mail)"
<
Team3S@stealth-3000gt.st>
Sent:
Friday, January 25, 2002 2:38 PM
Subject: Team3S: Diagnosing knock vs. spark
blowout?
I am having a small problem that I am unsure how to
diagnose. I am thinking
the issue is either knock or spark
blowout. How do I differentiate between
the two?
The problem is
as follows:
basically I have a somewhat inconsistent problem with losing a
lot of power
at about 4500rpm - 5500rpm in 2nd gear. Sometimes if I
hammer it down the
car will get up to 4500-5500rpm and sputter and really
lose power. I have a
K&N FIPK, Apexi S-AVCR @ 1.0 bar and Borla
exhaust. The car appears to
drive fine after the sputtering occurs -
unfortunately I've already lost the
race...LOL
From what I have heard,
it sounds to me like either knock or spark blowout.
I had the plugs changed
and "supposedly" regapped to .034 about 7000 mi ago.
I have not yet changed
the plug wires so I think it could also be that.
My question is how I do
differentiate between knock and spark blowout?
Dave 95VR4
http://www.daveblack.net***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 25 Jan 2002 18:14:08
-0700
From: "Mike & Cathy" <
micajoco@theofficenet.com>
Subject:
Team3S: Timing belt
I found out I may have jumped a tooth on the timing
belt. What are the odds
the valves and pistons made contact? Other than a
tear down is there a way
to check the timing belt? It hasn't been to long
since it was changed.
Mike S 92 r/t tt Wash. St.
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 25 Jan 2002 20:34:58
-0600
From: "Jannusch, Matt" <
mjannusch@marketwatch.com>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: Timing belt
> I found out I may have jumped a tooth on the
timing
> belt. What are the odds the valves and pistons made
>
contact? Other than a tear down is there a way to
> check the timing belt?
It hasn't been to long since
> it was changed. Mike S 92 r/t tt Wash.
St.
If it is only jumped one tooth then it is probably fine. To
determine if it
has jumped, there's a rubber access plug to the crank pulley
on the driver's
side wheelwell. You can turn the crank with a 1/2"
socket extension and a
long ratchet. Turn it clockwise until the little
mark on the edge of the
crank pulley lines up with the "0" mark on the timing
cover. Then remove
the two covers on top that protect the timing belt
(the two black covers on
the driver's side of the motor). Each cam gear
will have a little dot on
the front of the pulley at about the 2:00 or 10:00
positions (depending on
which cam you are looking at). The tooth that
the mark is on should line up
exactly with a matching indicator mark on the
cam covers.
If they line up, you are in good shape. If not, then
the best thing to do
is essentially replace the timing belt and
tensioner. There are pictures
and a how-to here:
http://www.team3s.com/60k.htmGood
luck!
- -Matt
'95 3000GT Spyder VR4
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 25 Jan 2002 21:08:56
-0600
From: "Todd D.Shelton" <
tds@brightok.net>
Subject: Re: Team3S:
Diagnosing knock vs. spark blowout?
>
>The problem is as
follows:
>basically I have a somewhat inconsistent problem with losing a
lot of power
>at about 4500rpm - 5500rpm in 2nd gear. Sometimes if I
hammer it down the
>car will get up to 4500-5500rpm and sputter and really
lose power. I have
a
>K&N FIPK, Apexi S-AVCR @ 1.0 bar and
Borla exhaust. The car appears to
>drive fine after the sputtering
occurs - unfortunately I've already
lost
the
>race...LOL
>
>>From what I have heard, it
sounds to me like either knock or spark
blowout.
>I had the plugs
changed and "supposedly" regapped to .034 about 7000 mi
ago.
>I have
not yet changed the plug wires so I think it could also be
that.
>
>My question is how I do differentiate between knock and
spark blowout?
-
--------------------------------------------------------------------------
Injector
size is not listed but I have hit fuel cut at ~ 1bar with
stock
injectors
in colder weather/ambient temps.
With larger 550+
injectors you shouldn't see fuel cut this low -
at least I never have with a
VPC. There have been conditions
which caused knock in this range and
the effects were as described.
There's no doubt when datalogging with the
TMO ...
- - tds
http://www.brightok.net/~tds***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 25 Jan 2002 23:39:54
-0600
From: "Philip V. Glazatov" <
gphilip@umich.edu>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: Diagnosing knock vs. spark blowout?
>There's no doubt when
datalogging with the TMO ...
Dave has a '95, just like me, so no TMO's
for us. But it is possible to use
Apexi SAFC, which shows injector duty
cycle. If injector duty cycle
approaches 100% then you have a problem and
need to lower boost or install
bigger
injectors.
Philip
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Sat, 26 Jan 2002 00:07:44
-0500
From: "Darren Schilberg" <
dschilberg@pobox.com>
Subject: RE:
Team3S: engine shut down
This is not of much help as hindsight is always
20/10 but for $50 a year
you get AAA and I believe the standard towing
distance is 50 miles (or
that might be the Gold package since basic AAA is
around $35). That
would cover the cost of a tow back to where you get
the work done. Plus
you get all sorts of free maps, travel books, etc.
from them. Nice
people even if the wait for a tow is a long time in bad
weather.
I do remember someone else on here having the same problem at
speed. My
dad's old Subaru Wagon (pre-AWD on all Subaru cars) was
cruising along a
Georgia highway at 60 mph when all the needles except the
speedo went to
zero. I think the only ones there were RPM, Speedo, and
Battery but
whatever they were it was like he shut the engine off and pushed
in the
clutch and we coasted for a while then pulled over when it
stopped.
Result was a timing belt had gone South (pardon the pun). Not
many
Japan/Import shops down in the heart of Georgia. Got a tow about
100
miles into Savannah and waited a day for the part.
Not sure what
else goes at 70mph like that. Starter doesn't matter.
Alternator won't
shut down the car like that (just make radio and lights
get dim). Fuel
pump? Distributor cap (or whatever our strip thing is
called)?
-
--Flash!
1995 VR-4
- -----Original Message-----
From: Mike &
Cathy
Sent: Friday, January 25, 2002 16:46
I need advice. My 92
rt tt Stealth quit at 70mph and will not restart.
No
check engine sign or
anything. There is good spark and I can hear the
fuel
pump working. Iam 50
mile from where I have the work done on my car and
any
help to try and
find whats wrong would be great. I know it could be many
different reasons,
but someone has had this happen and maybe I can fix
it
with out having the
car towed.
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
End of Team3S: 3000GT &
Stealth V1
#736
***************************************