Team3S: 3000GT & Stealth Thursday, January 24 2002
Volume 01 : Number
734
----------------------------------------------------------------------
Date:
Wed, 23 Jan 2002 10:39:29 -0500
From: Ed Leung <
eleung@summitracing.com>
Subject:
Team3S: lash adjuster replacement
The service manual doesn't isn't clear
on this,
but from what I can see of the DOHC engine layout, it seems as
though the
cams would need to be removed in order to replace the lash
adjusters. Is
this correct? Since the cam is above the rocker arms &
adjusters, I'm
assuming that it is necessary, and hence, a huge pain in the
ass. On the
SOHC motor, the rocker arms & adjusters are above the cams,
so one would
think it would be much easier on that engine. I just wanna
confirm this,
because if the cams have to come off, I don't think I'm
willing to do it. I
changed my timing belt/tensioner/waterpump a few weeks
ago, but going back
to take the cams off now just seems like too much
trouble.
Ed Leung
Summit Racing Equipment
(330) 630-0270 ext.
308
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 23 Jan 2002 08:08:31
-0800
From: "Jim Berry" <
fastmax@home.com>
Subject: Re: Team3S:
lash adjuster replacement
Count me among those who haven't done it but I
interpreted the manual
to show you can do it with the cams in place. Page
11-17 of the manual
shows a special tool that compresses the valve and then
you pull the
rocker and the lifter.
The special tool doesn't look
that complicated -- it looks like a heel
bar would
work.
Jim
Berry
===========================================
- ----- Original Message
-----
From: Ed Leung <
eleung@summitracing.com>
To:
<
Team3S@stealth-3000gt.st>
Sent:
Wednesday, January 23, 2002 7:39 AM
Subject: Team3S: lash adjuster
replacement
> The service manual doesn't isn't clear on this,
>
but from what I can see of the DOHC engine layout, it seems as though the
> cams would need to be removed in order to replace the lash adjusters.
Is
> this correct? Since the cam is above the rocker arms &
adjusters, I'm
> assuming that it is necessary, and hence, a huge pain in
the ass. On the
> SOHC motor, the rocker arms & adjusters are above
the cams, so one would
> think it would be much easier on that engine. I
just wanna confirm this,
> because if the cams have to come off, I don't
think I'm willing to do it. I
> changed my timing
belt/tensioner/waterpump a few weeks ago, but going back
> to take the
cams off now just seems like too much trouble.
>
> Ed Leung
>
Summit Racing Equipment
> (330) 630-0270 ext. 308
***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 23 Jan 2002 18:15:38
+0100
From: "Jim Matthews" <
jim@the-matthews.com>
Subject: RE:
Team3S: Ticking - something else other than lash adjusters
The ticking in
my engine started abruptly at about 40k miles with my switch from conventional
oil
to Mobil1 and from the regular Fram filter to the one with Teflon.
For subsequent oil changes, I
stuck with Mobil1 but used the Mitsu filter and
the tapping has gotten neither better nor worse. I
ran 3/4 bottle of
Mopar combustion chamber cleaner through before the last oil change but it
didn't
make any difference.
I usually have no ticking for the first
500-1000 miles following an oil change, and then it ticks
regularly at idle
when the engine is warm (oil pressure gauge is on the third tick mark).
Revving
slowly to 3000-3500 RPM temporarily stops the noise (oil pressure
gauge goes up a few tick marks).
I wonder if the ticking would disappear for
good if oil pressure were higher at idle?
- - --
Jim Matthews -
Munich, Germany
mailto:jim@the-matthews.com (64 Kbps
ISDN)
http://www.the-matthews.com***
3000GT-Stealth International (3Si) Member #0030
***
http://www.the-matthews.com/stealth.htmlJet
Black '94 Dodge Stealth R/T Twin-Turbo AWD AWS 6-spd
Adjustable Active
Suspension, Adjustable Exhaust System
K&N FIPK, A'PEXi Super AVC-R v.1
(1.0 bar @ 64% BADC)
A'PEXi Turbo Timer (30 sec), Blitz Super Blow-Off
Valve
Magnecore spark plug wires, Optima Red Top 830 Battery
Redline synth
fluids (trans= MT-90, xfer & diff= SPHvy)
Cryoed rotors, R4S pads,
braided lines, red calipers
Michelin Pilot XGT-Z4 245/45ZR17, Top Speed: 171
mph
G-Tech Pro: 0-60 4.79 sec, 1/4 13.16 sec @ 113.9 mph
1 Feb 99 Dyno
Session: 367 SAE HP, 354 lb-ft torque
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 23 Jan 2002 10:31:04
-0700
From: "Floyd, Jim" <
Jim_Floyd@maxtor.com>
Subject: RE:
Team3S: Ticking - something else other than lash adjusters
Does anyone
offer an oil pump for our cars that provides higher oil
pressure ?
-
-----Original Message-----
From: Jim Matthews
[mailto:jim@the-matthews.com]
Sent: Wednesday, January 23, 2002 10:16
AM
To: 'Team3S List (E-mail)'
Subject: RE: Team3S: Ticking - something
else other than lash adjusters
The ticking in my engine started abruptly
at about 40k miles with my
switch from conventional oil
to Mobil1 and from
the regular Fram filter to the one with Teflon. For
subsequent oil
changes, I
stuck with Mobil1 but used the Mitsu filter and the tapping has
gotten
neither better nor worse. I
ran 3/4 bottle of Mopar
combustion chamber cleaner through before the last
oil change but it
didn't
make any difference.
I usually have no ticking for the first
500-1000 miles following an
oil change, and then it ticks
regularly at
idle when the engine is warm (oil pressure gauge is on the
third tick
mark). Revving
slowly to 3000-3500 RPM temporarily stops the noise (oil
pressure gauge goes
up a few tick marks).
I wonder if the ticking would
disappear for good if oil pressure were higher
at idle?
- - --
Jim
Matthews - Munich, Germany
mailto:jim@the-matthews.com (64 Kbps
ISDN)
http://www.the-matthews.com***
3000GT-Stealth International (3Si) Member #0030
***
http://www.the-matthews.com/stealth.htmlJet
Black '94 Dodge Stealth R/T Twin-Turbo AWD AWS 6-spd
Adjustable Active
Suspension, Adjustable Exhaust System
K&N FIPK, A'PEXi Super AVC-R v.1
(1.0 bar @ 64% BADC)
A'PEXi Turbo Timer (30 sec), Blitz Super Blow-Off
Valve
Magnecore spark plug wires, Optima Red Top 830 Battery
Redline synth
fluids (trans= MT-90, xfer & diff= SPHvy)
Cryoed rotors, R4S pads,
braided lines, red calipers
Michelin Pilot XGT-Z4 245/45ZR17, Top Speed: 171
mph
G-Tech Pro: 0-60 4.79 sec, 1/4 13.16 sec @ 113.9 mph
1 Feb 99 Dyno
Session: 367 SAE HP, 354 lb-ft torque
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 23 Jan 2002 11:47:36
-0600
From: "Jannusch, Matt" <
mjannusch@marketwatch.com>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: Ticking - something else other than lash adjusters
> Does
anyone offer an oil pump for our cars that
> provides higher oil pressure
?
It would be tough... The stock one is pretty well integrated into
the front
of the motor, and aligns the timing belt guards. There's lots
of little oil
manifolds that connect onto it to provide the paths to the
filter, oil
cooler, front and rear turbos, etc. The main oil flow goes
straight into
the block from the pump.
Not impossible, but you'd have
to rework a number of things to make it go.
Probably not worth the
effort/expense.
http://people.mn.mediaone.net/mjannusch/oilpump.jpgUnfortunately
I don't think I have a picture of just the pump itself.
- -Matt
'95
3000GT Spyder VR4
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 23 Jan 2002 17:06:32
-0500
From: "Boris" <
BPeguero@mediaone.net>
Subject:
Team3S: wheels
Hello everybody,
Does anyone know where I could get
three junky wheels or three spare tires
for my twin turbo. I just need a way
to get my tires and wheels off, and
still keep the car on all fours. So far I
only have one wheel and tire off
and used the spare to set the car back down
again.
thanks,
Boris
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: 23 Jan 2002 15:01:52
PST
From: Dean Benz <
dbenz@usa.net>
Subject: Re: [Team3S:
wheels]
What about jack stands, wooden, or concrete
blocks?
"Boris" <
BPeguero@mediaone.net> wrote:
>
Hello everybody,
> Does anyone know where I could get three junky wheels
or three spare tires
> for my twin turbo. I just need a way to get my
tires and wheels off, and
> still keep the car on all fours. So far I only
have one wheel and tire off
> and used the spare to set the car back down
again.
> thanks,
> Boris
Dean Benz
dbenz@usa.net*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 3 Jan 1980 18:49:00
-0500
From: "bdtrent" <
bdtrent@netzero.net>
Subject:
Team3S: Looking for 550cc Injectors
All,
I've been occationally
running into fuel cut in this nice cold winter air
with my RC 500's. I
would like to switch to 550's. Does anyone have a new
or used set for
sale? Please contact me via. my email.
Regards,
DaveT/92TT
bdtrent@netzero.net***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 23 Jan 2002 16:35:16
-0800
From: "Jim Berry" <
fastmax@home.com>
Subject: Re: Team3S:
wheels
Boris --- I have a set of 94 17" chrome rims with Goodyear eagles
[20 %
tread left ] for sale. There in relatively good shape --- ranging from
curb
rash to bubbled chrome --- even the worst one looks good from 10
feet.
Jim
Berry
==========================================
- ----- Original Message
-----
From: Boris <
BPeguero@mediaone.net>
To: <
Team3S@stealth-3000gt.st>
Sent:
Wednesday, January 23, 2002 2:06 PM
Subject: Team3S: wheels
> Hello
everybody,
> Does anyone know where I could get three junky wheels or
three spare tires
> for my twin turbo. I just need a way to get my tires
and wheels off, and
> still keep the car on all fours. So far I only have
one wheel and tire off
> and used the spare to set the car back down
again.
> thanks,
> Boris
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 23 Jan 2002 19:44:21
-0500
From: "Wayne Bonnett" <
wayne@wbwebsol.com>
Subject: Team3S:
New check engine light question.
Thanks for all the input about my MDP
sensor.
A friend of mine is having a problem with her check engine
light. She says
that the dealer can not read the code using their scan
tool. I find that
hard to believe, but then again I don't know a whole
lot about our cars
(yet).
Could it be possible that the check engine
light would come on even if there
were no codes sent by the ECU? I know
if there is a short somewhere, that
could cause it, but other than that do
you have any ideas?
Thanks again for all replies!
Thanks,
Wayne
Bonnett
www.WBWebSol.com*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 23 Jan 2002 20:58:54
-0500
From: "Dennis and Anita Moore" <
stealth@quixnet.net>
Subject:
Team3S: Floppy Clutch Pedal Question
Hi all,
My 93 Stealth ES
(FWD) "suddenly" developed a floppy clutch pedal today.
This morning, the
pedal gave very very light resistance to pressure through
about 3/4 of its
travel. Once I reached the "strong point", the car seemed
to shift
OK. This evening, shifting was very hard, and before I made it
home
from work the pedal no longer returned after being depressed. At
the
last stop light, I was unable to shift into first, and when I put the
tranny
into 2nd gear the car was pulling forward even while the pedal was
fully
depressed.
I've checked my service manuals, and still have a
couple questions:
The only solution they offer for this symptom is to
bleed (and I assume
refill) the clutch. I can't find any other
directions on how to do this,
and I'm not too sure where under the hood to
find a bleeder valve. I've
never bled clutches (or brakes) before, but
I assume it can't be too
difficult. So,
Where will I find the
bleeder valve they show in the none-too-clear picture?
I found on the FAQ
that "clutch reservoirs are always in the engine
compartment on the firewall
on the drivers side." This is where I would
refill the fluid after
draining it, right?
The manual calls for "MOPAR Brake Fluid conforming to
DOT3 or DOT4". Does
anyone have any strong recommendations one way or
the other, or maybe for an
alternate?
Finally, any suggestions on what
could have caused the "sudden" degradation?
Thanks.
Dennis
Moore
93 Stealth ES
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 23 Jan 2002 21:29:07
-0500
From: "Aamer" <
aamer@thepentagon.com>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Floppy Clutch Pedal Question
I had the same problem. I don't
think your clutch fluid is bad, it's most
likely your Slave Cylinder. You can
buy a new slave cylinder at the Mitsu
dealer for around $35. If you take out
the slave clyinder, you should be
able to see a leak.... mine leaked fluid
all over me when I took it out.
It's fairly easy to change. Of course, you
will have to bleed new fluid into
it after you change it, it uses regular Dot
3 or 4 brake fluid I think.
Email me if you have any more
questions.
Aamer Abbas
'94 3000GT (DOHC -- Naturally
Aspirated)
email:
aamer@thepentagon.com [or]
aabomb@thepentagon.comfax: (707)
982-8817 [add +1 country code if faxing from outside the United
States]
-
----- Original Message -----
From: "Dennis and Anita Moore" <
stealth@quixnet.net>
To: <
Team3S@stealth-3000gt.st>
Sent:
Wednesday, January 23, 2002 8:58 PM
Subject: Team3S: Floppy Clutch Pedal
Question
> Hi all,
>
> My 93 Stealth ES (FWD) "suddenly"
developed a floppy clutch pedal today.
> This morning, the pedal gave very
very light resistance to pressure
through
> about 3/4 of its
travel. Once I reached the "strong point", the car
seemed
> to
shift OK. This evening, shifting was very hard, and before I made
it
> home from work the pedal no longer returned after being
depressed. At
the
> last stop light, I was unable to shift into
first, and when I put the
tranny
> into 2nd gear the car was pulling
forward even while the pedal was fully
> depressed.
>
> I've
checked my service manuals, and still have a couple questions:
>
>
The only solution they offer for this symptom is to bleed (and I assume
>
refill) the clutch. I can't find any other directions on how to do
this,
> and I'm not too sure where under the hood to find a bleeder
valve. I've
> never bled clutches (or brakes) before, but I assume
it can't be too
> difficult. So,
>
> Where will I find
the bleeder valve they show in the none-too-clear
picture?
>
> I
found on the FAQ that "clutch reservoirs are always in the engine
>
compartment on the firewall on the drivers side." This is where I
would
> refill the fluid after draining it, right?
>
> The
manual calls for "MOPAR Brake Fluid conforming to DOT3 or DOT4".
Does
> anyone have any strong recommendations one way or the other, or
maybe for
an
> alternate?
>
> Finally, any suggestions on
what could have caused the "sudden"
degradation?
>
>
Thanks.
>
> Dennis Moore
> 93 Stealth ES
***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 23 Jan 2002 18:34:12
-0800
From: Damon Rachell <
damonr@mefas.com>
Subject: Re: Team3S:
Floppy Clutch Pedal Question
it sounds like you've got a leak in the
clutch hydrolic system. This is
just about exactly what happened to my
car (92 R/T TT) a couple of
months ago. One minute fine, the next, the
car won't even get in gear.
So, here's the scoop: You've got to
check out the clutch master
cylender, slave cylender, and the hose that goes
to the clutch fork (not
so sure about what this one looks like,
though).
Basically, I'd take it to a shop who knows what they're doing so
they
don't say, well, it's the master, when it's the slave. If the
master is
leaking, though, it leaks into the drivers compartment.
Check the mats
by the clutch pedal for any signs of leakage. The slave
is in the
engine bay.
Sorry I can't help any more than that. I
had GTPro do it for me, cost
under $100 with parts and labor!
Dennis
and Anita Moore wrote:
> Hi all,
>
> My 93 Stealth ES
(FWD) "suddenly" developed a floppy clutch pedal today.
> This morning,
the pedal gave very very light resistance to pressure through
> about 3/4
of its travel. Once I reached the "strong point", the car seemed
>
to shift OK. This evening, shifting was very hard, and before I made
it
> home from work the pedal no longer returned after being
depressed. At the
> last stop light, I was unable to shift
into first, and when I put the tranny
> into 2nd gear the car was pulling
forward even while the pedal was fully
> depressed.
>
> I've
checked my service manuals, and still have a couple questions:
>
>
The only solution they offer for this symptom is to bleed (and I assume
>
refill) the clutch. I can't find any other directions on how to do
this,
> and I'm not too sure where under the hood to find a bleeder
valve. I've
> never bled clutches (or brakes) before, but I assume
it can't be too
> difficult. So,
>
> Where will I find
the bleeder valve they show in the none-too-clear picture?
>
> I
found on the FAQ that "clutch reservoirs are always in the engine
>
compartment on the firewall on the drivers side." This is where I
would
> refill the fluid after draining it, right?
>
> The
manual calls for "MOPAR Brake Fluid conforming to DOT3 or DOT4".
Does
> anyone have any strong recommendations one way or the other, or
maybe for an
> alternate?
>
> Finally, any suggestions on
what could have caused the "sudden" degradation?
>
>
Thanks.
>
> Dennis Moore
> 93 Stealth ES
***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 23 Jan 2002 18:32:32
-0800
From: "Jim Berry" <
fastmax@home.com>
Subject: Re: Team3S:
Floppy Clutch Pedal Question
Below is a page from Jeff Lucius's site ---
it describes the proceedure for
the AWD car, the FWD is probably
similar.
http://www.geocities.com/lutransys/blucius/b-2-clutchbleeding.htm
Jim Berry
===============================================
- ----- Original
Message -----
From: Dennis and Anita Moore <
stealth@quixnet.net>
To: <
Team3S@stealth-3000gt.st>
Sent:
Wednesday, January 23, 2002 5:58 PM
Subject: Team3S: Floppy Clutch Pedal
Question
> Hi all,
>
> My 93 Stealth ES (FWD) "suddenly"
developed a floppy clutch pedal today.
> This morning, the pedal gave very
very light resistance to pressure through
> about 3/4 of its travel.
Once I reached the "strong point", the car seemed
> to shift OK.
This evening, shifting was very hard, and before I made it
> home from
work the pedal no longer returned after being depressed. At
the
> last stop light, I was unable to shift into first, and when I put
the tranny
> into 2nd gear the car was pulling forward even while the
pedal was fully
> depressed.
>
> I've checked my service
manuals, and still have a couple questions:
>
> The only solution
they offer for this symptom is to bleed (and I assume
> refill) the
clutch. I can't find any other directions on how to do this,
> and
I'm not too sure where under the hood to find a bleeder valve.
I've
> never bled clutches (or brakes) before, but I assume it can't be
too
> difficult. So,
>
> Where will I find the bleeder
valve they show in the none-too-clear picture?
>
> I found on the
FAQ that "clutch reservoirs are always in the engine
> compartment on the
firewall on the drivers side." This is where I would
> refill the
fluid after draining it, right?
>
> The manual calls for "MOPAR
Brake Fluid conforming to DOT3 or DOT4". Does
> anyone have any
strong recommendations one way or the other, or maybe for an
>
alternate?
>
> Finally, any suggestions on what could have caused
the "sudden" degradation?
>
> Thanks.
>
> Dennis
Moore
> 93 Stealth ES
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 23 Jan 2002 21:43:03
-0500
From: "Jeff VanOrsdal" <
jeffv@1nce.com>
Subject: Team3S: Need TT
exhaust manifolds an exhaust housings
The subject says it all. I need a
spare set for a project I'm working on.
Email me privately if you have a set
for sale. I need the manifolds more
than anything, but I'd prefer all 4
pieces.
Jeff V.
1991 Stealth ESX Twin Turbo
jeffv@1nce.com*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 23 Jan 2002 21:01:00
-0700
From: "Mike & Cathy" <
micajoco@theofficenet.com>
Subject:
Team3S: mobil 1 75/90
Has anyone tried using Mobil 1 75/90 synthetic in
a 5-speed trans?
Mike 92 rt tt
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 23 Jan 2002 22:17:39
-0800
From: "Ken Middaugh" <
kmiddaugh@ixpres.com>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: Looking for 550cc Injectors
There is a group buy on
www.3si.org for RC-550 for $400 shipped. You
may
still be able to join in...
- ----- Original Message
-----
From: "bdtrent" <
bdtrent@netzero.net>
To: "Team 3S"
<
team3s@stealth-3000gt.st>
Sent:
Thursday, January 03, 1980 3:49 PM
Subject: Team3S: Looking for 550cc
Injectors
> All,
>
> I've been occationally running into
fuel cut in this nice cold winter air
> with my RC 500's. I would
like to switch to 550's. Does anyone have a
new
> or used set for
sale? Please contact me via. my email.
>
> Regards,
>
DaveT/92TT
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 23 Jan 2002 22:22:59
-0800
From: "Ken Middaugh" <
kmiddaugh@ixpres.com>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: mobil 1 75/90
Mobil 1 synthetic is not recommended since it is a
GL-5 fluid. GL-5 is
supposedly harmful to our synchros and GL-4 fluid
is specified. Stick with
one of the recommended GL-4 fluids like
Redline (MT90-GL4, or MTL), BG
Synchroshift, Amsoil, etc.
- -----
Original Message -----
From: "Mike & Cathy" <
micajoco@theofficenet.com>
To:
<
team3s@stealth-3000gt.st>
Sent:
Wednesday, January 23, 2002 8:01 PM
Subject: Team3S: mobil 1
75/90
> Has anyone tried using Mobil 1 75/90 synthetic in a 5-speed
trans?
> Mike 92 rt tt
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 24 Jan 2002 01:29:02
-0600
From: "Philip V. Glazatov" <
gphilip@umich.edu>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: Looking for 550cc Injectors
Does anyone know if the RC-550's are
different from Denso-550's, and if yes
then how?
Are any of them more
race-proven than others?
Philip
At 12:17 AM 01/24/02, Ken Middaugh
wrote:
>There is a group buy on
www.3si.org for RC-550 for $400 shipped. You
may
>still be able to join in...
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 24 Jan 2002 06:43:44
+0000
From:
apedenko@attbi.comSubject: Team3S: OT:
valve timing
Okay, I'm stumped. I was flipping through some info
online and found a listing of how all the current
variable valve timing
systems work. What I don't
understand is that in some way, shape or form
they all
use camshafts. Why doesn't someone make an
electronically
actuated valve? I'm hoping I'm not some
genius that's the first to come up
w/ this idea (cuz if
I am, then I should'a pattented it first ;) ) so
there's got to be a reason not to do it that way. I
mean from a
theoretical standpoint, I don't see the
difficulty in producing a valve
opened by an electric
motor, or better yet simply pushed by an electric
field. The only thing I can think of is reliability,
but if anything,
this could be done with less moving
parts, so it could potentially be more
reliable than a
standard camshaft. Plus this would eliminate the timing
belt all together...
Sorry admins, I know this is out there... just
tryin'
to think outside the box...
Alex
'95
VR4
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 24 Jan 2002 01:11:53
-0600
From: Merritt <
merritt@cedar-rapids.net>
Subject:
Team3S: Stupid question about NOx
Instead of spending a zillion dollars
on AFCs, bigger injectors, bigger
turbos, boost controllers, bigger
intercoolers and all that stuff, why not
just install a NOx
bottle?
Since I do open tracking, and I already have plenty of
power through the
twisty bits, I could just hit the NOS bottle when coming
onto a straight
and pull away from those nasty Vipers and TT AWD
Porsches.
Wouldn't that give me 200 extra cheap horsepower
in my VR4 and 100 hp in my
Talon?
OK, so NOx costs $40 a bottle, but I
could run a whole mess of NOx for the
thousands of dollars the other mods
cost.
What's the downside of running NOx on a road
course?
Rich
94 3000GT VR4
92 Talon TSi AWD
***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 24 Jan 2002 08:17:39
-0500
From: Ed Leung <
eleung@summitracing.com>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: OT: valve timing
Electronically actuated valvetrains are
still in a developmental stage-
To date, the best anyone has been able to
achieve is about a 10,000 mile
service life. Most auto manufacturers and
several other companies (such as
Sturman Industries) are working hard on
this. It will be as big or bigger
than carbs-to-efi when it is finally
perfected. However, I'd probably say
that we're at least 5 years away from
seeing that on new cars, and maybe a
decade away from seeing "camless
conversions". I've got a 500ci V8 in my
other car and the thought of
.400" lift at idle and .800" lift at redline
makes me damp in the shorts. It
will be the end of compromise as far as
valvetrains are concerned.
Ed
Leung
Summit Racing Equipment
(330) 630-0270 ext. 308
-
-----Original Message-----
From:
apedenko@attbi.com
[SMTP:apedenko@attbi.com]
Sent: Thursday, January 24, 2002 1:44 AM
To:
team3s@team3s.comSubject: Team3S: OT:
valve timing
Okay, I'm stumped. I was flipping through some
info
online and found a listing of how all the current
variable valve
timing systems work. What I don't
understand is that in some way, shape or
form they all
use camshafts. Why doesn't someone make an
electronically
actuated valve? I'm hoping I'm not some
genius that's the first to come up w/
this idea (cuz if
I am, then I should'a pattented it first ;) ) so
there's
got to be a reason not to do it that way. I
mean from a theoretical
standpoint, I don't see the
difficulty in producing a valve opened by an
electric
motor, or better yet simply pushed by an electric
field. The only
thing I can think of is reliability,
but if anything, this could be done with
less moving
parts, so it could potentially be more reliable than
a
standard camshaft. Plus this would eliminate the timing
belt all
together...
Sorry admins, I know this is out there... just tryin'
to
think outside the box...
Alex
'95 VR4
***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 24 Jan 2002 05:56:38
-0800 (PST)
From: John Christian <
jczoom_619@yahoo.com>
Subject: RE:
Team3S: Ticking - something else other than lash adjusters
Hi
all,
My oil pump is apart in the basement. If you need a
pic,
I'll send one to you.
Be of good cheer,
John
Hi all,
My
oil pump is apart downstairs in the garage. If you
need a pic, I can
send you one.
Be of good cheer,
John
- --- "Jannusch, Matt"
<
mjannusch@marketwatch.com>
wrote:
>
> Does anyone offer an oil pump for our cars that
> > provides
higher oil pressure ?
>
> It would be tough... The stock one
is pretty well
> integrated into the front
> of the motor, and
aligns the timing belt guards.
> There's lots of little oil
>
manifolds that connect onto it to provide the paths
> to the filter,
oil
> cooler, front and rear turbos, etc. The main oil
> flow
goes straight into
> the block from the pump.
>
> Not
impossible, but you'd have to rework a number of
> things to make it
go.
> Probably not worth the effort/expense.
>
>
http://people.mn.mediaone.net/mjannusch/oilpump.jpg>
> Unfortunately I don't think I have a picture of just
> the pump
itself.
>
> -Matt
> '95 3000GT Spyder
VR4
=====
Please respond to
jczoom@iname.com'93 TT with Porsche
brakes and Supra TT rotors
12.4@109MPH
5/97 almost stock
http://www.geocities.com/motorcity/flats/4538***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 24 Jan 2002 08:15:04
-0600
From: "Willis, Charles E." <
cewillis@TexasChildrensHospital.org>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: Looking for 550cc Injectors
At the track last weekend, also
in the cold, I was having intermittent fuel
cut out. I finally looked
at my boost guage and I was overboosting like to
18 psi when I meticulously
adjusted the DSBC to 14.7. Something is wrong
with my BOV (Boschur DSM)
or the DSBC itself. This is strange. Any
other
ideas?
Chuck Willis
94 VR4
> I've been occationally
running into fuel cut in this nice cold winter air
> with my RC 500's.
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 24 Jan 2002 09:28:59
-0500
From: "Darren Schilberg" <
dschilberg@pobox.com>
Subject:
Team3S: RE: 3S-Racers: Stupid question about NOx
You mean OTHER than the
chance it could catastrophically explode inside
the car like a car
bomb? You'll never have any of your other mods
exploding like
that. You also won't be able to use it on the street so
all that power
you like at the track will be lost. I'd stick with the
safer
alternative. It just seems "childish" to me. I didn't grow up
in
the good ol' days though so I never saw it used. But nobody uses it
in
"real" racing (rally, road events, Speedvision, British Touring
Car,
German Porsche Supercup, etc.). And people AT a road course
driving
event will sneer at you. Not sure if you would be allowed to
run it in
our groups around here. I bet they would make you disconnect
it.
- --Flash!
1995 VR-4
- -----Original Message-----
From:
Merritt
Sent: Thursday, January 24, 2002 02:12
What's the
downside of running NOx on a road course?
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 24 Jan 2002 08:52:37
-0600
From:
overclck@ies.net (Cody
Graham)
Subject: RE: Team3S: RE: 3S-Racers: Stupid question about
NOx
Sorry Darren... that just doesn't happen with Nitrous
Oxide. 1 in a
million bottles explode (and when they do, it's at least
partially the
operators fault). A nitrous bottle is the same type of
bottle you strap
directly to your back when you go SCUBA diving. They
have the same safe
pressure limit, etc. Thing is, Nitrous is not
combustible, Oxygen is.
So, in effect, you are strapping a bomb to your back
if you go SCUBA
diving.
Nitrous is forced induction, except
instead of mechanical forced, its
chemical forced. I never quite see
why so many people think its soooo
bad, or its cheating, or anything like
that...
I say go for it. It is much less expensive than a costly
turbo upgrade,
and its pretty easy to tune in. 200 Hp gain may be a tad
much, but I
could almost guarantee 100 - 150 on a stock 3/S turbo motor is
perfectly
ok. Remember though, if you are going for high HP shot like
you are,
you will need a higher flow fuel pump, or a secondary fuel pump
for
nitrous alone. Soon, I will have some numbers on how much a 150
shot
helped my N/A 3 Liter.
- -Cody
- -----Original
Message-----
From:
owner-team3s@team3s.com
[mailto:owner-team3s@team3s.com] On Behalf
Of Darren Schilberg
Sent:
Thursday, January 24, 2002 8:29 AM
To:
3sracers@speedtoys.com;
Team3S@stealth-3000gt.stSubject:
Team3S: RE: 3S-Racers: Stupid question about NOx
You mean OTHER than the
chance it could catastrophically explode inside
the car like a car
bomb? You'll never have any of your other mods
exploding like
that. You also won't be able to use it on the street so
all that power
you like at the track will be lost. I'd stick with the
safer
alternative. It just seems "childish" to me. I didn't grow up
in
the good ol' days though so I never saw it used. But nobody uses it
in
"real" racing (rally, road events, Speedvision, British Touring
Car,
German Porsche Supercup, etc.). And people AT a road course
driving
event will sneer at you. Not sure if you would be allowed to
run it in
our groups around here. I bet they would make you disconnect
it.
- --Flash!
1995 VR-4
- -----Original Message-----
From:
Merritt
Sent: Thursday, January 24, 2002 02:12
What's the
downside of running NOx on a road course?
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 24 Jan 2002 06:51:59
-0800
From: "Jim Berry" <
fastmax@home.com>
Subject: Re: Team3S:
Stupid question about NOx
- ----- Original Message -----
From:
Merritt <
merritt@cedar-rapids.net>
>
OK, so NOx costs $40 a bottle, but I could run a whole mess of NOx for
the
> thousands of dollars the other mods cost.
>
> What's
the downside of running NOx on a road course?
Running out of NOX
!!! Remember, power is
addictive.
Jim
Berry
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 24 Jan 2002 09:07:56
-0600
From: "Willis, Charles E." <
cewillis@TexasChildrensHospital.org>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: New check engine light question.
you can read the code with a
voltmeter or on 2nd gen cars by watch a
flashing light. you want MFI
codes ...
see text below FAQ
Okay, the three day weekend gave me a
chance to look up how to read the ECS
trouble codes with a
voltmeter.
1. Find the datalink connector under the dash in the
driver's side.
A. 1ST GENERATION - connect + to pin 3, - to pin
12. Pin 3 is the
third down on the left side, before the double space.
Pin 12 is the lower
right corner.
B. 2ND GENERATION - connect + to
pin 3, - to pin 4 or 5. Pin 3 is
the third from the top left side of
the connector ( on the log side of the
trapezoid), pin 4 and 5 are next to
the right.
2. Turn the ignition on.
3. Look at the
voltmeter. The code is repeated many times. Seven (7)
short
deflections is code =0, and means everything is wonderful.
4. Other
codes are: 1 long, 1 short = 11, G sensor bad.
2 long, 1 short=21,
steering angular velocity sensor open
2 long, 4 short=24, speed sensor
open
These codes don't disappear until ingnition switch is off, even if
you fix
the problem.
5. These codes disappear when you correct
the problem:
6 long, 1 short=61, Front Right shock
6 long, 2 short=62,
Front left shock
6 long, 3 short=63, Rear right shock
6 long, 4 short=64,
Rear Left shock
MFI trouble codes are read in a similar manner, but
different pins.
FIRST GENERATION - connect + to pin 1, - to pin
12.
SECOND GENERATION - Connect pin 1 to GROUND and watch the CHECK ENGINE
light
flashes for same sort of patterns - long flashes (1.5 sec) are tens
digit,
short (0.5 sec) flashes are ones digit. That gets you the same
codes you
would read on the Scan Tool.
You clear codes by
disconnecting the battery for 10 seconds, reconnecting
and idling the car for
15 min to make sure the codes don't return.
Chuck
> A friend
of mine is having a problem with her check engine light. She
>
says
> that the dealer can not read the code using their scan tool.
I find that
> hard to believe, but then again I don't know a whole lot
about our cars
> (yet).
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 24 Jan 2002 09:11:15
-0600
From: "Jannusch, Matt" <
mjannusch@marketwatch.com>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: Stupid question about NOx
> You mean OTHER than the chance
it could catastrophically
> explode inside the car like a car
bomb?
Unlikely, unless you install it in a retarded manner.
>
You also won't be able to use it on the street so all
> that power you
like at the track will be lost.
Why can't you press the button on the
street? I'm sure almost all the cars
of people on this list are
"illegal" in the strictest sense of the word.
Half the cars on the list are
missing pre-cats. Some people have Porsche
brakes on their cars which
aren't DOT certified for use on 3000GT's. Is a
boost controller
technically legal? I dunno...
> I'd stick with the safer
alternative. It just seems
> "childish" to me.
Power is
power. Doesn't really matter much how you get it.
> And people
AT a road course driving event will sneer
> at you.
Rich should
come over to the dark side... Switch to drag racing.....
:-)
Seriously though, to address Rich's original question: I think
getting 200
extra "safe" HP on a VR4 motor just from NOS is going to be hard
to come by
without using forged pistons (at a minimum). There's also
tuning to be done
so it doesn't blow up the motor - it seems like you'd just
bolt it in and
go, but you still need to make sure the air/fuel/nirous ratios
are all
correct for maximum safe power.
Then there's always the
temptation to go one nozzle size higher until the
motor grenades...
I
wouldn't use it on a road course, but on a dragstrip on some old
beater
musclecar I'd certainly throw it on there - why not?
Would I
put it on my VR4? Nope. Seems risky. Going
the
turbo/injectors/boost route seems more "classy".
200 HP from just
nitrous seems "optimistic" to me.
- -Matt
'95 3000GT Spyder
VR4
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 24 Jan 2002 09:21:25
-0600
From: "Willis, Charles E." <
cewillis@TexasChildrensHospital.org>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: mobil 1 75/90
Gl-5 is okay in the REAR DIFFERENTIAL,
yes? no?
> Mobil 1 synthetic is not recommended since it is a GL-5
fluid. GL-5 is
> supposedly harmful to our synchros and GL-4 fluid
is specified. Stick
> with
> one of the recommended GL-4
fluids like Redline (MT90-GL4, or MTL), BG
> Synchroshift, Amsoil,
etc.
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Mike &
Cathy" <
micajoco@theofficenet.com>
>
To: <
team3s@stealth-3000gt.st>
>
Sent: Wednesday, January 23, 2002 8:01 PM
> Subject: Team3S: mobil 1
75/90
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 24 Jan 2002 09:24:25
-0600
From: "Willis, Charles E." <
cewillis@TexasChildrensHospital.org>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: Stupid question about NOx
> > What's the downside of
running NOx on a road course?
>
[Willis, Charles E.] Darren is
right in one regard - if it's
noticed during tech inspection, you would be
asked to disconnect or not use
it at a DE. It's considered poor form!
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 24 Jan 2002 10:26:58
-0500
From: "Furman, Russell" <
RFurman2@MassMutual.com>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: Stupid question about NOx
It seems like it could be done,
using a direct port setup I do not see why
not, just need hella large
injectors or run 450 primaries and then some
balanced stock 360's and an AIC
controller set up to fire the secondary
injectors when ever the Nox is
actuated.
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Jannusch, Matt
[SMTP:mjannusch@marketwatch.com]
> Sent: Thursday, January 24, 2002 10:11
AM
> To:
Team3S@stealth-3000gt.st>
Subject: RE: Team3S: Stupid question about NOx
>
> > You mean
OTHER than the chance it could catastrophically
> > explode inside the
car like a car bomb?
>
> Unlikely, unless you install it in a
retarded manner.
>
> > You also won't be able to use it on the
street so all
> > that power you like at the track will be
lost.
>
> Why can't you press the button on the street? I'm
sure almost all the
> cars
> of people on this list are "illegal" in
the strictest sense of the word.
> Half the cars on the list are missing
pre-cats. Some people have Porsche
> brakes on their cars which
aren't DOT certified for use on 3000GT's. Is a
> boost controller
technically legal? I dunno...
>
> > I'd stick with the
safer alternative. It just seems
> > "childish" to me.
>
> Power is power. Doesn't really matter much how you get
it.
>
> > And people AT a road course driving event will sneer
> > at you.
>
> Rich should come over to the dark
side... Switch to drag racing..... :-)
>
> Seriously
though, to address Rich's original question: I think getting 200
> extra
"safe" HP on a VR4 motor just from NOS is going to be hard to come
>
by
> without using forged pistons (at a minimum). There's also
tuning to be
> done
> so it doesn't blow up the motor - it seems
like you'd just bolt it in and
> go, but you still need to make sure the
air/fuel/nirous ratios are all
> correct for maximum safe power.
>
> Then there's always the temptation to go one nozzle size higher until
the
> motor grenades...
>
> I wouldn't use it on a road
course, but on a dragstrip on some old beater
> musclecar I'd certainly
throw it on there - why not?
>
> Would I put it on my VR4?
Nope. Seems risky. Going the
> turbo/injectors/boost route
seems more "classy".
>
> 200 HP from just nitrous seems
"optimistic" to me.
>
> -Matt
> '95 3000GT Spyder
VR4
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
End of Team3S: 3000GT &
Stealth V1
#734
***************************************
