Team3S: 3000GT & Stealth Wednesday, January 23 2002
Volume 01 : Number
733
----------------------------------------------------------------------
Date:
Tue, 22 Jan 2002 06:25:30 -0800 (PST)
From: Jeff Lucius <
stealthman92@yahoo.com>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: More Transmission nonsense
I have used BG and Red Line
(currently) in my trany, and like Erik,
did not notice a difference between
the two.
Trany oil change:
http://www.geocities.com/lutransys/jlucius/2-awddrainfill.htmTodd
Shelton's list of TSBs:
http://www.brightok.net/~tds/Stsb.html3000GT
Online's list of TSBs:
http://206.79.51.180/tsbs.htmJeff
Lucius,
http://www.stealth316.com/- -----
Original Message -----
From: "Gross, Erik" <
erik.gross@intel.com>
To: <
team3s@stealth-3000gt.st>
Sent:
Monday, January 21, 2002 2:46 PM
Subject: RE: Team3S: More Transmission
nonsense
<snip>
Redline's in my VR-4 transaxle now (BG SS in the
T/C) and I don't
really notice any significant difference between the Redline
and BG
as far as "feel" and synchro operation.
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 22 Jan 2002 08:22:19
-0600
From: "Willis, Charles E." <
cewillis@TexasChildrensHospital.org>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: Installing a Supra pump
Thanks!
Kelly Falk mentioned
that he almost crimped the short high pressure pipe
when he was doing the
replacement. He was going to show me but we ran out
of time at
TWS.
Chuck
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Jeff
Lucius [SMTP:stealthman92@yahoo.com]
> Sent: Friday, January 18, 2002
10:56 AM
> To:
Team3S@stealth-3000gt.st> Cc:
Merritt
> Subject: Re: Team3S: Installing a Supra pump
>
>
http://www.geocities.com/lutransys/jlucius/2-fuelpump.htm>
> The Supra pump is a direct drop in replacement for the stock
VR4/TT
> pump. I now recommend leaving the flexible high-pressure
hose
> attached at the pump assembly and disconnecting it forward
(near
> front of the tank) where it attaches to the long pipe. This
minimizes
> the chance of bending the short high-pressure pipe that is on
the
> assembly.
>
> Jeff Lucius,
http://www.stealth316.com/>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Merritt" <
merritt@cedar-rapids.net>
>
To: <
3sracers@speedtoys.com>;
<
Team3S@stealth-3000gt.st>
>
Sent: Friday, January 18, 2002 9:12 AM
> Subject: Team3S: Installing a
Supra pump
>
> Somewhere, on somebody's web site, is a full set of
instructions on
> how to install a Supra fuel pump. Anybody know the
link?
>
> Rich/slow old poop
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 22 Jan 2002 08:34:40
-0600
From: "Willis, Charles E." <
cewillis@TexasChildrensHospital.org>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: thoughs on Turbo/supercharger
... except on a road
course. Your 750hp 'vette will likely drive straight
off the
track. I don't know how many super high hp 'vettes I've seen where
the
driver has to coast around on idle because of too damn much torque.
Doesn't
sound like much fun to me. Lots of laughs on a wet track like
last
Saturday morning at TWS!
Chuck Willis
(I really hate
Corvettes, possibly more than Mustangs!)
> -----Original
Message-----
> From: Damon Rachell [SMTP:damonr@mefas.com]
> Sent:
Friday, January 18, 2002 6:49 PM
> To: Jerry Bowling
> Cc:
Team3S@stealth-3000gt.st>
Subject: Re: Team3S: thoughs on Turbo/supercharger
>
> Not to be
anti-3S here, but...
>
> Buy a 1996 Corvette with the LT-4 motor
(~$20-25000), and drop it off at
> John Lingenfelter's house. Ask
him to bore it out to 427, and drop his
> twin turbo kit on it
(~$30K). Viola, 750HP, outhandled a stealth, will
> get equal
attention, and kick every 3S's ass out there.
>
> I love my TT, but
when it comes to outright performance bang for your
> buck, there's
little a 3S can do to complete with vettes.
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 22 Jan 2002 08:40:47
-0600
From: "Willis, Charles E." <
cewillis@TexasChildrensHospital.org>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: thoughs on Turbo/supercharger
Okay, what if I won the
lottery?
With your budget, get a 2ng gen VR4 vintage 94 or early
95. Minor mods to
brakes(big front rotors big 6 piston calipers),
suspension (springs,
lowering, and antisway bars), intake and fuel control,
nice wheels and
sticky tires, and roll cage racing seats and five point
harnesses, THEN GET
A NICE CLOSED TRAILER AND A PICKUP TRUCK TO CARRY IT TO
THE TRACK. Get it
off the street if you want to kick some serious
ass.
Chuck Willis
> -----Original Message-----
> From:
Jerry Bowling [SMTP:scorpman@optonline.net]
> Sent: Friday, January 18,
2002 7:05 PM
> To:
Team3S@stealth-3000gt.st>
Subject: Re: Team3S: thoughs on Turbo/supercharger
>
> I really
appreciate the input about the money and spending it and
>
investing
> it,, but please I have well over 20X more then what I am going
to spend on
> this car, I have a home and everything,, I want my toy now.
so if you have
> input on what exactly I can do to my car, OR to a better
stealth/vr4 then
> I
> would love to hear your input,, thanks
again
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 22 Jan 2002 08:47:44
-0600
From: Merritt <
merritt@cedar-rapids.net>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: Installing a Supra pump
Got mine put in at Fast &
Furious, the new speed shop in Iowa.
Cost less than $100 for two hours'
time.
Rich
>Kelly Falk mentioned that he almost crimped the short
high pressure pipe
>when he was doing the replacement. He was going
to show me but we ran out
>of time at
TWS.
>
>Chuck
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 22 Jan 2002 08:52:30
-0600
From: Merritt <
merritt@cedar-rapids.net>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: thoughs on Turbo/supercharger
At 08:34 AM 1/22/02 -0600,
Willis, Charles E. wrote:
>... except on a road course. Your 750hp
'vette will likely drive straight
>off the track. I don't know how
many super high hp 'vettes I've seen where
>the driver has to coast around
on idle because of too damn much torque.
>
>
One of my ROWG
buddies has an ex-drag race Camaro with supercharger and NOS
that he's
converted to road racing. He has a terrible problem getting the
power down,
cuz all the car wants to do is light up the tires with all that
horsepower.
At our Marshalltown track, he probably spun the tires about
half the way
around, yet still wound up with one of the fastest times of
the day. It was
one of those legendary point-and-shoot cars that LEAPS from
corner to
corner.
Rich/slow old poop
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 22 Jan 2002 09:57:23
-0500
From: "Jeff VanOrsdal" <
jeffv@1nce.com>
Subject: RE: Team3S:
thoughs on Turbo/supercharger
If you honestly want to lay waste to all
comers, Supras, 3000GTs, Vettes and
pretty much anything out of Germany or
Italy, look into a Skyline GTR. It's
got a bullet proof engine, near
bullet proof driveline (on the pre 99s
anyway), an AWD system that is both
RWD and AWD, no end of mods and it can
handle like few other things on
earth. The Supra boys are glad this car was
never officially imported,
because if it was, their precious "dawgs" would
be nothing more than
overblown Celicas right now.
You can pick up an R32 GTR (89-94) via
Motorex for something in the area of
$35,000. I was quoted 28k on a
1990 model. Throw about 10k in mods at it
and virtually nothing will
touch you, either in a straight line or in a
corner.
Jeff
VanOrsdal
1991 Stealth ESX Twin Turbo
jeffv@1nce.com> -----Original
Message-----
> From: Jerry Bowling [SMTP:scorpman@optonline.net]
>
Sent: Friday, January 18, 2002 7:05 PM
> To:
Team3S@stealth-3000gt.st>
Subject: Re: Team3S: thoughs on Turbo/supercharger
>
> I really
appreciate the input about the money and spending it and
>
investing
> it,, but please I have well over 20X more then what I am going
to spend on
> this car, I have a home and everything,, I want my toy now.
so if you have
> input on what exactly I can do to my car, OR to a better
stealth/vr4 then
> I
> would love to hear your input,, thanks
again
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 22 Jan 2002 09:05:21
-0600
From: "Willis, Charles E." <
cewillis@TexasChildrensHospital.org>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: More Transmission nonsense
Hard shifting in the cold is fixed
by using Redline MT90 fluid in tranny and
transfer case. Grinding on
shift to 2nd and 3rd is symptom of Getrag
synchro failure - they owe you a
new tranny under warranty, so they are
bsing you. This is an FAQ.
>
-----Original Message-----
> From: Dustin Lenz
[SMTP:dustin_lenz@hotmail.com]
> Sent: Monday, January 21, 2002 10:41
AM
> To:
team3s@stealth-3000gt.st>
Subject: Team3S: More Transmission nonsense
>
> Hey all,
>
> To give a little background up front, I have a 97 VR-4 which I bought
in
> June 01 with 38k on it. Soon after the purchase (2-months) I noticed
that
> it
> was hard to shift into 2nd, sometimes felt it grinding,
then 3rd soon
> after.
> Side note: shifting much
harder when cold. Had the clutch and flywheel
> replaced with RPS
3, Fidanza aluminum. Still the problem. Had
> Libertyville
> Mitsubishi look at it, they did not acknowledge any problem. I
pushed,
> got
> a District Manager from Mitsubishi to come
out. Here's the point: The
> Manager took a test drive, immediately
tells me that it's a fluid issue,
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 22 Jan 2002 09:29:13
-0600
From: "Willis, Charles E." <
cewillis@TexasChildrensHospital.org>
Subject:
Team3S: FW: Join the Fun with NASA TX on Feb 2 - 3 at MotorSport
Ranch
> Subject: Join the Fun with NASA TX on Feb 2 - 3 at MotorSport
Ranch
>
> Fellow Drivers,
>
> I wanted to make you
aware of an upcoming driving event hosted by NASA TX
> (National Auto
Sport Association, Texas Chapter) on February 2 - 3 at the
> MotorSport
Ranch in Cresson, Texas (south of Fort Worth).
>
> In addition to
race groups, NASA TX offers two driver's ed groups:
> introductory
and advanced. On-track protocal is comparable to other
> existing
> driver's ed venues in which you have participated. However, in
the
> advanced
> group only, passing is allowed anywhere with a
point-by, making the NASA
> TX
> driver's ed venue unique. If
you aspire to race some day, this is about
> as
> close to racing,
without racing, as you can get. Instruction is provided
> in
> the introductory group and is also available in the advanced
group.
>
> One of the featured race groups at this event will be
the German Touring
> Car
> Challenge. BMW's and Porsches will
be racing each other in the same
> group,
> classed according to
their respective club racing rules. I participated
> in
>
this series last year and had a blast racing with the BMW drivers. So,
if
>
> you have a race-prepped BMW or Porsche, come join us.
More info and entry
>
> forms are available at:
www.nasatx.com >
> For
those who haven't driven at MotorSport Ranch, it's a technical,
>
challenging, yet safe track. The track is less than three years old,
so
> the
> surface is still very smoothe. For more details,
visit:
>
www.motorsportranch.com>
> The NASA TX events are run by a group of really nice folks who aim
to
> please,
> so I think you'll enjoy yourself, whether you come
to race, run in the
> driver's ed groups, or just observe. For more
information on NASA TX, go
> to
>
www.nasatx.com, or feel free to contact me and
I'll try to answer your
> questions.
>
> Hope to see you
there!
>
> Becky Laughlin
> (281) 360-0123
***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 22 Jan 2002 17:26:57
+0100
From: Henri Le Hir <
hlehir@lucent.com>
Subject: Team3S:
Oil Brand/Viscosity Europe vs US
>>I've also heard that in Europe
they don't change their oil as often as in
>>the US. Roger is
that true? ;)
Car : Nissan 300 Zx Twin Turbo
US : Use ANY oil,
change every 3000 miles
Europe ONLY 100% Synth Oil, change every 10.000 km
(or 6000 miles)
I use the very same rule for my Stealth (to be honest, I
never actually
checked the Mitsu Bible), but if it's good for my Zs, it's
good for my
Stealth
Henri
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 22 Jan 2002 17:39:35
+0100
From: Roger Gerl <
roger.gerl@bluewin.ch>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Oil Brand/Viscosity Europe vs US
> >>I've also heard
that in Europe they don't change their oil as often as in
> >>the
US. Roger is that true? ;)
- - For the 3000GT it is recommended to
change oil every 7500km.
- - Audi A8 it is 10'000km
Fully Synth oil
5W-40 or better is recommended.
Please note, oil is very expensive here ! We
pay about $15 for a liter for
e.g. Mobil 1 5W-40
Roger
93'3000GT
TT
www.rtec.ch*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 22 Jan 2002 11:52:18
-0500
From: "Darren Schilberg" <
dschilberg@pobox.com>
Subject: RE:
Team3S: Oil Brand/Viscosity Europe vs US
Is that $15 US, $15 Euro, or $15
Swiss Franc?
1 liter = 1.05669 quarts
1 quart = 0.946353
liter
1 Swiss Franc = 0.60208 USD
- -----Original
Message-----
From: Roger Gerl
Sent: Tuesday, January 22, 2002
11:40
- - For the 3000GT it is recommended to change oil every
7500km.
- - Audi A8 it is 10'000km
Fully Synth oil 5W-40 or better is
recommended.
Please note, oil is very expensive here ! We pay about $15 for a
liter
for
e.g. Mobil 1 5W-40
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 22 Jan 2002 09:11:51
-0800
From: "Gross, Erik" <
erik.gross@intel.com>
Subject:
Team3S: Ticking - something else other than lash adjusters
I've been
vindicated! =)
So Dodge/Mitsu do know about this being another potential
cause of that
@#$#@$ ticking!
(From Todd's site)
http://www.brightok.net/~tds/9-21-93.txtCarbon
Buildup On Piston Top
Vehicle: Dodge Stealth
TSB Number: 09-21-93
Group: Engine
Date: Dec. 31, 1993
Subject: Carbon Buildup On Top of
Piston
Models:
Symptom/Condition:
Symptoms vary from light
ticking, to a ticking/hammering
to a hammering/knocking noise as the carbon
buildup
increases with mileage and time. The noise is constant
and more
pronounced when the engine is cold. However,
it may disappear when the engine
warms up. The noise
is most noticeable during idle, but will get louder
as
engine speed increases.
Discussion:
Carbon buildup is a
relatively new condition that occurs
during the combustion process and
results from certain
compounds in gasoline. These compounds form
deposits
on the top of the piston and cause contact between the
cylinder
head and the piston. The condition affects all
gasoline engines and is
industry wide.
The brand of fuel and the type of detergents used by
the
gasoline supplier significantly contribute to the condition.
Also,
vehicles used in city traffic or light duty cycle
operation are more prone to
incurring the condition.
DIAGNOSIS:
1. Make sure that
all vehicle systems are operating as designed.
Using the Mopar Diagnostic System or the Scan Tool (DRB
II)
with appropriate diagnostic procedure manual,
verify that
all engine systems are functioning as
designed. If
Diagnostic Trouble Codes (DTC's) are
present, record them
on the repair order for future
reference, and repair as
necessary.
2. If all engine systems are functioning as
designed, ask
the customer about the fuel that is
being used in the
vehicle. If there is a question
about the quality of the
fuel, suggest that only
fuels which are "warranted" by the
gasoline company
against the build up of deposits be used.
Repair Procedure:
The
use of Mopar Fuel Injector Cleaner has shown reasonable
results in removing
carbon buildup deposits. Add one bottle
of Mopar Fuel Injector Cleaner (P/N
4318007) to a full tank
of gas.
CAUTION:
UNDER NO CIRCUMSTANCES
SHOULD THIS FUEL INJECTOR CLEANER BE
ADDED TO A PARTIALLY FILLED FUEL TANK.
ALSO, LIQUID CLEANERS
ADDED THROUGH THE ENGINE INTAKE SYSTEM COULD
RESULT
IN BENT CONNECTING RODS DUE TO HYDROSTATIC LOCK.
Mopar fuel injector
cleaner is not intended for continuous
use. Owners should be advised of the
cause of the noise problem
and a recommendation should be made to try other
brands of
gasoline.
Policy: Information Only
***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 22 Jan 2002 12:32:28
-0500
From: "Darren Schilberg" <
dschilberg@pobox.com>
Subject: RE:
Team3S: Oil Brand/Viscosity Europe vs US
I know I am not supposed to
forward private email to the list but it is
only to clear up my
question. I trimmed out parts not relevant to the
post.
-
--Flash!
- -----Original Message-----
From: Roger Gerl
[mailto:roger.gerl@bluewin.ch]
Sent: Tuesday, January 22, 2002 12:04
To:
dschilberg@pobox.com$ is
Dollar and CHF is Swiss Franc. 1 Liter is between 19 CHF and 24
CHF
Roger
- -----Original Message-----
From: Darren
Schilberg
Sent: Tuesday, January 22, 2002 11:52
To:
team3s@team3s.com Is that $15
US, $15 Euro, or $15 Swiss Franc?
1 liter = 1.05669 quarts
1 quart =
0.946353 liter
1 Swiss Franc = 0.60208 USD
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 22 Jan 2002 12:28:55
-0500
From: "Darren Schilberg" <
dschilberg@pobox.com>
Subject: RE:
Team3S: Ticking - something else other than lash adjusters
Mine is
typically non-existent immediately after startup (cold or warm
temps) but
starts soon after starting (about 10-60 seconds after). Idle
is worst
ticking and depending on how low the oil level is makes it tick
louder also
(2 quarts low is a VERY loud ticking, 1 quart low is
moderate ticking, and
full oil is muffled ticking if any at all).
Revving engine or higher
engine revs when driving is not noticed. Maybe
because the engine or
exhaust drowns out the ticking but revving it and
releasing causes all
ticking to stop for a few seconds to 10+ minutes.
Just what I've noticed
on my car.
1995 VR-4
60k tune-up
84k currently on car
-
--Flash!
- -----Original Message-----
From: Gross, Erik
Sent:
Tuesday, January 22, 2002 12:12
Carbon Buildup On Piston Top
Symptoms vary from light ticking, to a ticking/hammering
to a
hammering/knocking noise as the carbon buildup
increases with mileage and
time. The noise is constant
and more pronounced when the engine is cold.
However,
it may disappear when the engine warms up. The noise
is most
noticeable during idle, but will get louder as
engine speed
increases.
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 22 Jan 2002 13:17:06
-0600
From: "Black, Dave (ICT)" <
dblai@allstate.com>
Subject: Team3S:
Wiring harness question
I have a question about a small wiring harness
that is about 6 inches off
the positive battery post connector. It is a
small harness with only 1 wire
in it (a black wire with a red stripe) and
plugs for 2 wires. The harness
is somewhat in the shape of a T if you
are looking at the plugs. The wire
connector is a spade (flat
blade-like connector similar to a screwdriver).
My problem is that the wire
came out of the harness and I do not know which
plug the spade connector is
supposed to go into.
My question is which plug does the wire connect to
and what is this harness
for?
when looking at the harness plugs it
looks kinda like
this:
_________
|
|
|________|
| |
| |
|___|
TIA
Dave 95VR4
http://www.daveblack.net***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 22 Jan 2002 13:24:56
-0600
From: "Jannusch, Matt" <
mjannusch@marketwatch.com>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: Wiring harness question
> My question is which plug does
the wire connect to and what
> is this harness for?
Sounds like
the fuel pump test connector, RPM test lead, or ignition timing
adjustment
connector.
It doesn't plug into anything, if it is one of those.
They are only used
for testing purposes. See page 3 of the Electrical
service manual for more
info/pictures.
- -Matt
'95 3000GT Spyder
VR4
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 22 Jan 2002 17:44:13
-0500
From: Jerry Bowling <
scorpman@optonline.net>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: thoughs on Turbo/supercharger
Ok Guys,
I am the orignal person On this post,, I have found out what I am going
to
do,, no other car I want, I really enjoy the whole being of the
Stealth,,
handling. look, comfort. So I am sticking to the stealth/vr4.. And
I have
found one that I want am going to get it,, thanks for all the
imput
- ----- Original Message -----
From: "Merritt" <
merritt@cedar-rapids.net>
To:
"Willis, Charles E." <
cewillis@TexasChildrensHospital.org>;
"'Damon
Rachell'" <
damonr@mefas.com>; "Jerry Bowling" <
scorpman@optonline.net>
Cc:
< >
Sent: Tuesday, January 22, 2002 9:52
AM
Subject: RE: Team3S: thoughs on Turbo/supercharger
> At 08:34 AM
1/22/02 -0600, Willis, Charles E. wrote:
> >... except on a road
course. Your 750hp 'vette will likely drive
straight
> >off
the track. I don't know how many super high hp 'vettes I've
seen
where
> >the driver has to coast around on idle because of too
damn much torque.
> >
> >
> One of my ROWG buddies has
an ex-drag race Camaro with supercharger and
NOS
> that he's converted
to road racing. He has a terrible problem getting the
> power down, cuz
all the car wants to do is light up the tires with all
that
>
horsepower. At our Marshalltown track, he probably spun the tires about
>
half the way around, yet still wound up with one of the fastest times of
>
the day. It was one of those legendary point-and-shoot cars that
LEAPS
from
> corner to corner.
>
> Rich/slow old
poop
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 22 Jan 2002 16:47:16
-0600
From: Merritt <
merritt@cedar-rapids.net>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: thoughs on Turbo/supercharger
At 05:44 PM 1/22/02 -0500,
Jerry Bowling wrote:
>Ok Guys,
> I am the orignal
person On this post,, I have found out what I am going
>to do,, no other
car I want, I really enjoy the whole being of the Stealth,,
>handling.
look, comfort. So I am sticking to the stealth/vr4.. And I have
>found one
that I want am going to get it,, thanks for all the imput
If what you
have told us is true, we all envy you. To us, it would be like
winning the
lottery.
Like you, if I won the lottery, I'd turn my VR4 into the
fastest car in
the world, just to show all those stuck-up Viper and Porsche
TT AWD owners.
Shoot, you could probably do for less than $125,000 (the
cost of a new
Porsche TT AWD).
Keep us posted.
Rich/slow old
poop
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 22 Jan 2002 18:09:43
-0500
From: Jerry Bowling <
scorpman@optonline.net>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: thoughs on Turbo/supercharger
Will do,, the car I found is
mostly built,, but I have alot of plans for
making it faster and ALOT lighter
then it is,,, when I seen this car and the
mods to it I could never do that
for the money I am getting it for,, so on
future mods to it I will let all
know and see if I can break the 10 sec mark
with it
- ----- Original
Message -----
From: "Merritt" <
merritt@cedar-rapids.net>
To:
"Jerry Bowling" <
scorpman@optonline.net>; <
Team3S@stealth-3000gt.st>
Sent:
Tuesday, January 22, 2002 5:47 PM
Subject: Re: Team3S: thoughs on
Turbo/supercharger
> At 05:44 PM 1/22/02 -0500, Jerry Bowling
wrote:
> >Ok Guys,
> > I am the orignal
person On this post,, I have found out what I am
going
> >to do,, no
other car I want, I really enjoy the whole being of the
Stealth,,
>
>handling. look, comfort. So I am sticking to the stealth/vr4.. And I
have
> >found one that I want am going to get it,, thanks for all the
imput
>
> If what you have told us is true, we all envy you. To us,
it would be like
> winning the lottery.
>
> Like you, if I won
the lottery, I'd turn my VR4 into the fastest car in
> the world,
just to show all those stuck-up Viper and Porsche TT
AWD
owners.
> Shoot, you could probably do for less than $125,000
(the cost of a new
> Porsche TT AWD).
>
> Keep us
posted.
>
> Rich/slow old poop
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 22 Jan 2002 23:01:30
-0500
From: "Jeff VanOrsdal" <
jeffv@1nce.com>
Subject: Team3S: Attn
Boris
Sorry to bug the list with this. I beg 1000 pardons for my
transgressions.
Boris, I emailed you about the parts you have for sale,
but I believe it
didn't go through. Could you please email me
off-list? Thanks. My email
is below.
Jeff V.
1991
Stealth ESX Twin Turbo
jeffv@1nce.com*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 23 Jan 2002 18:28:30
+1300
From: "Steve Cooper" <
scooper@paradise.net.nz>
Subject:
Team3S: 4 bolt block
Hi
I was just wondering if sombody could help
me find a photo of a 4 bolt main
block.
Thanks in
advance.
Steve
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 22 Jan 2002 23:43:03
-0600
From: "Jannusch, Matt" <
mjannusch@marketwatch.com>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: 4 bolt block
> I was just wondering if sombody could help
me find
> a photo of a 4 bolt main block. Thanks in advance.
What,
specifically are you looking for? I have lots of pretty pictures of
my
block.
- -Matt
'95 3000GT Spyder VR4
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 23 Jan 2002 05:54:17
+0000
From:
apedenko@attbi.comSubject: Re: Team3S:
More Transmission nonsense
I have the exact same problem (with the exact
same
dealer! took the f***ing bastards 3 months to do _any_
warranty
work on it). What I don't understand is this -
they sent my car out to some
guy (for you Chicagoland
folks out there, it was a tranny guy in Schaumburg,
called Roadmaster transmissions - the absolute most
horrible shop I've
ever seen). They fixed my leak (my
seals were leaking), told me that my
synchros didn't
grind when you shift(though they did) and looked
perfect. That is absolutely ridiculous - it's to the
point where when I
took the car in for them to look at
it, I told them that 1. it grinds. 2.
when you shift
into 4th or 6th and let go of the clutch, the shifter
pops forward a good inch. They told me that wasn't
there, and refused to
go into the car with me. What the
h*ll do I have to do to these bastards to
get them to
fix my transmission? I spent $1,500 on a Mitsu bumper-
bumper
warranty that was supposed to cover everything.
I want the tranny sent to
Kormex, but they refuse to do
anything else. The warranty ppl say it's the
shop's
problem, the shops sez it's the warranty!!!
I appologize for
the somewhat OT post and the harsh
words, but I've had the car since Jul '01
and this
problem since then as well. I love my car, but it's
kinda hard
to drive when I have to wait ~5 secs between
shifts for the synchros to
grind a _little_ less.
Any suggestions?
Thanks,
Alex
BTW - if you're in Chicago - _stay_ _away_ from
Libertyville
Mitsubishi. Them and Roadmaster
transmissions. Aside from not doing
_anything_, they're
also rude as G-d knows what!
> Hey all,
>
> To give a little background up front, I have a 97 VR-4 which I bought
in
> June 01 with 38k on it. Soon after the purchase (2-months) I noticed
that it
> was hard to shift into 2nd, sometimes felt it grinding, then
3rd soon after.
> Side note: shifting much harder when
cold. Had the clutch and flywheel
> replaced with RPS 3, Fidanza
aluminum. Still the problem. Had Libertyville
> Mitsubishi
look at it, they did not acknowledge any problem. I pushed, got
> a
District Manager from Mitsubishi to come out. Here's the point: The
> Manager took a test drive, immediately tells me that it's a fluid
issue,
> recommended GM Goodwrench Syncromesh. Told me that this is
the ONLY fluid
> to use, which is why we have these issues with our
cars. Valid? Called some
> Mits dealers, and no one recommends
Syncromesh. Any comments guys? I'm
> annoyed.
>
> Thanks,
>
> Dustin
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 22 Jan 2002 23:54:42
-0600
From: "Jannusch, Matt" <
mjannusch@marketwatch.com>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: 4 bolt block
>> I was just wondering if sombody could
help me find
>> a photo of a 4 bolt main block. Thanks in
advance.
> What, specifically are you looking for? I
have
> lots of pretty pictures of my block.
If you are just looking
for how to identify a 4-bolt from a 2-bolt, here's a
pic of the crank main
bearing "cap" on my 4-bolt block:
http://people.mn.mediaone.net/mjannusch/crankin.jpgEssentially
the 2-bolt has only single bolts on each side of each bearing
instead of 2
per side. The 2-bolt also has a "bearing cap stay" on each
side to try
to hold alignment. The 4-bolt doesn't use the stays.
The block
itself looks something like this:
http://people.mn.mediaone.net/mjannusch/block1.jpg...only
not nearly as pretty when you pull it out of the car. This is
after
hot-tanking, boring, honing, painting, etc.
- -Matt
'95
3000GT Spyder VR4
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 22 Jan 2002 23:59:22
-0600
From: "Jannusch, Matt" <
mjannusch@marketwatch.com>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: More Transmission nonsense
> I appologize for the somewhat
OT post and the harsh
> words, but I've had the car since Jul '01 and
this
> problem since then as well. I love my car, but it's
> kinda
hard to drive when I have to wait ~5 secs between
> shifts for the
synchros to grind a _little_ less.
> Any suggestions?
Demand
the money you paid for the warranty back, since they won't cover a
defect as
a warranty should and put it towards having Kormex fix your
tranny.
Otherwise just flat-out sue the warranty company to force them to
hold up
their end of the contract that you entered into in good faith.
-
-Matt
'95 3000GT Spyder VR4
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 23 Jan 2002 19:59:22
+1300
From: "Steve Cooper" <
scooper@paradise.net.nz>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: 4 bolt block
Thanks guys for all the quick replies, Matt sent
the perfect pic.
Steve
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 23 Jan 2002 08:45:20
-0600
From: "Willis, Charles E." <
cewillis@TexasChildrensHospital.org>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: More Transmission nonsense
Alex, if you have a Mitsubishi
warranty, it should be honored by another
Mitsubishi dealer. Have you
tried taking the car to another one?
Chuck
> I have the exact
same problem (with the exact same
> dealer!
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
End of Team3S: 3000GT &
Stealth V1
#733
***************************************
