Team3S: 3000GT & Stealth  Wednesday, January 23 2002  Volume 01 : Number 733




----------------------------------------------------------------------

Date: Tue, 22 Jan 2002 06:25:30 -0800 (PST)
From: Jeff Lucius <stealthman92@yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: Team3S: More Transmission nonsense

I have used BG and Red Line (currently) in my trany, and like Erik,
did not notice a difference between the two.

Trany oil change:
http://www.geocities.com/lutransys/jlucius/2-awddrainfill.htm

Todd Shelton's list of TSBs:
http://www.brightok.net/~tds/Stsb.html

3000GT Online's list of TSBs:
http://206.79.51.180/tsbs.htm

Jeff Lucius, http://www.stealth316.com/

- ----- Original Message -----
From: "Gross, Erik" <erik.gross@intel.com>
To: <team3s@stealth-3000gt.st>
Sent: Monday, January 21, 2002 2:46 PM
Subject: RE: Team3S: More Transmission nonsense

<snip>
Redline's in my VR-4 transaxle now (BG SS in the T/C) and I don't
really notice any significant difference between the Redline and BG
as far as "feel" and synchro operation.

***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***

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Date: Tue, 22 Jan 2002 08:22:19 -0600
From: "Willis, Charles E." <cewillis@TexasChildrensHospital.org>
Subject: RE: Team3S: Installing a Supra pump

Thanks!

Kelly Falk mentioned that he almost crimped the short high pressure pipe
when he was doing the replacement.  He was going to show me but we ran out
of time at TWS.

Chuck

> -----Original Message-----
> From: Jeff Lucius [SMTP:stealthman92@yahoo.com]
> Sent: Friday, January 18, 2002 10:56 AM
> To: Team3S@stealth-3000gt.st
> Cc: Merritt
> Subject: Re: Team3S: Installing a Supra pump
>
> http://www.geocities.com/lutransys/jlucius/2-fuelpump.htm
>
> The Supra pump is a direct drop in replacement for the stock VR4/TT
> pump. I now recommend leaving the flexible high-pressure hose
> attached at the pump assembly and disconnecting it forward (near
> front of the tank) where it attaches to the long pipe. This minimizes
> the chance of bending the short high-pressure pipe that is on the
> assembly.
>
> Jeff Lucius, http://www.stealth316.com/
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Merritt" <merritt@cedar-rapids.net>
> To: <3sracers@speedtoys.com>; <Team3S@stealth-3000gt.st>
> Sent: Friday, January 18, 2002 9:12 AM
> Subject: Team3S: Installing a Supra pump
>
> Somewhere, on somebody's web site, is a full set of instructions on
> how to install a Supra fuel pump. Anybody know the link?
>
> Rich/slow old poop

***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***

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Date: Tue, 22 Jan 2002 08:34:40 -0600
From: "Willis, Charles E." <cewillis@TexasChildrensHospital.org>
Subject: RE: Team3S: thoughs on Turbo/supercharger

... except on a road course.  Your 750hp 'vette will likely drive straight
off the track.  I don't know how many super high hp 'vettes I've seen where
the driver has to coast around on idle because of too damn much torque.
Doesn't sound like much fun to me.  Lots of laughs on a wet track like last
Saturday morning at TWS!

Chuck Willis
(I really hate Corvettes, possibly more than Mustangs!)

> -----Original Message-----
> From: Damon Rachell [SMTP:damonr@mefas.com]
> Sent: Friday, January 18, 2002 6:49 PM
> To: Jerry Bowling
> Cc: Team3S@stealth-3000gt.st
> Subject: Re: Team3S: thoughs on Turbo/supercharger
>
> Not to be anti-3S here, but...
>
> Buy a 1996 Corvette with the LT-4 motor (~$20-25000), and drop it off at
> John Lingenfelter's house.  Ask him to bore it out to 427, and drop his
> twin turbo kit on it (~$30K).  Viola, 750HP, outhandled a stealth, will
> get equal attention, and kick every 3S's ass out there.
>
> I love my TT, but when it comes to outright performance bang for your
> buck, there's little a 3S can do to complete with vettes.

***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***

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Date: Tue, 22 Jan 2002 08:40:47 -0600
From: "Willis, Charles E." <cewillis@TexasChildrensHospital.org>
Subject: RE: Team3S: thoughs on Turbo/supercharger

Okay, what if I won the lottery?

With your budget, get a 2ng gen VR4 vintage 94 or early 95.  Minor mods to
brakes(big front rotors big 6 piston calipers), suspension (springs,
lowering, and antisway bars), intake and fuel control, nice wheels and
sticky tires, and roll cage racing seats and five point harnesses, THEN GET
A NICE CLOSED TRAILER AND A PICKUP TRUCK TO CARRY IT TO THE TRACK.  Get it
off the street if you want to kick some serious ass.

Chuck Willis

> -----Original Message-----
> From: Jerry Bowling [SMTP:scorpman@optonline.net]
> Sent: Friday, January 18, 2002 7:05 PM
> To: Team3S@stealth-3000gt.st
> Subject: Re: Team3S: thoughs on Turbo/supercharger
>
> I really appreciate the input about the money and spending it and
> investing
> it,, but please I have well over 20X more then what I am going to spend on
> this car, I have a home and everything,, I want my toy now. so if you have
> input on what exactly I can do to my car, OR to a better stealth/vr4 then
> I
> would love to hear your input,, thanks again

***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***

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Date: Tue, 22 Jan 2002 08:47:44 -0600
From: Merritt <merritt@cedar-rapids.net>
Subject: RE: Team3S: Installing a Supra pump

Got mine put in at Fast & Furious, the new speed shop in Iowa.
Cost less than $100 for two hours' time.
Rich

>Kelly Falk mentioned that he almost crimped the short high pressure pipe
>when he was doing the replacement.  He was going to show me but we ran out
>of time at TWS.
>
>Chuck

***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***

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Date: Tue, 22 Jan 2002 08:52:30 -0600
From: Merritt <merritt@cedar-rapids.net>
Subject: RE: Team3S: thoughs on Turbo/supercharger

At 08:34 AM 1/22/02 -0600, Willis, Charles E. wrote:
>... except on a road course.  Your 750hp 'vette will likely drive straight
>off the track.  I don't know how many super high hp 'vettes I've seen where
>the driver has to coast around on idle because of too damn much torque.
>
>
One of my ROWG buddies has an ex-drag race Camaro with supercharger and NOS
that he's converted to road racing. He has a terrible problem getting the
power down, cuz all the car wants to do is light up the tires with all that
horsepower. At our Marshalltown track, he probably spun the tires about
half the way around, yet still wound up with one of the fastest times of
the day. It was one of those legendary point-and-shoot cars that LEAPS from
corner to corner.

Rich/slow old poop

***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***

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Date: Tue, 22 Jan 2002 09:57:23 -0500
From: "Jeff VanOrsdal" <jeffv@1nce.com>
Subject: RE: Team3S: thoughs on Turbo/supercharger

If you honestly want to lay waste to all comers, Supras, 3000GTs, Vettes and
pretty much anything out of Germany or Italy, look into a Skyline GTR.  It's
got a bullet proof engine, near bullet proof driveline (on the pre 99s
anyway), an AWD system that is both RWD and AWD, no end of mods and it can
handle like few other things on earth.  The Supra boys are glad this car was
never officially imported, because if it was, their precious "dawgs" would
be nothing more than overblown Celicas right now.

You can pick up an R32 GTR (89-94) via Motorex for something in the area of
$35,000.  I was quoted 28k on a 1990 model.  Throw about 10k in mods at it
and virtually nothing will touch you, either in a straight line or in a
corner.

Jeff VanOrsdal
1991 Stealth ESX Twin Turbo
jeffv@1nce.com

> -----Original Message-----
> From: Jerry Bowling [SMTP:scorpman@optonline.net]
> Sent: Friday, January 18, 2002 7:05 PM
> To: Team3S@stealth-3000gt.st
> Subject: Re: Team3S: thoughs on Turbo/supercharger
>
> I really appreciate the input about the money and spending it and
> investing
> it,, but please I have well over 20X more then what I am going to spend on
> this car, I have a home and everything,, I want my toy now. so if you have
> input on what exactly I can do to my car, OR to a better stealth/vr4 then
> I
> would love to hear your input,, thanks again

***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 22 Jan 2002 09:05:21 -0600
From: "Willis, Charles E." <cewillis@TexasChildrensHospital.org>
Subject: RE: Team3S: More Transmission nonsense

Hard shifting in the cold is fixed by using Redline MT90 fluid in tranny and
transfer case.  Grinding on shift to 2nd and 3rd is symptom of Getrag
synchro failure - they owe you a new tranny under warranty, so they are
bsing you. This is an FAQ.

> -----Original Message-----
> From: Dustin Lenz [SMTP:dustin_lenz@hotmail.com]
> Sent: Monday, January 21, 2002 10:41 AM
> To: team3s@stealth-3000gt.st
> Subject: Team3S: More Transmission nonsense
>
> Hey all,
>
> To give a little background up front, I have a 97 VR-4 which I bought in
> June 01 with 38k on it. Soon after the purchase (2-months) I noticed that
> it
> was hard to shift into 2nd, sometimes felt it grinding, then 3rd soon
> after.
>   Side note: shifting much harder when cold.  Had the clutch and flywheel
> replaced with RPS 3, Fidanza aluminum.  Still the problem.  Had
> Libertyville
> Mitsubishi look at it, they did not acknowledge any problem.  I pushed,
> got
> a District Manager from Mitsubishi to come out.  Here's the point: The
> Manager took a test drive, immediately tells me that it's a fluid issue,

***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***

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Date: Tue, 22 Jan 2002 09:29:13 -0600
From: "Willis, Charles E." <cewillis@TexasChildrensHospital.org>
Subject: Team3S: FW: Join the Fun with NASA TX on Feb 2 - 3 at MotorSport Ranch

> Subject: Join the Fun with NASA TX on Feb 2 - 3 at MotorSport Ranch
>
> Fellow Drivers,
>
> I wanted to make you aware of an upcoming driving event hosted by NASA TX
> (National Auto Sport Association, Texas Chapter) on February 2 - 3 at the
> MotorSport Ranch in Cresson, Texas (south of Fort Worth).
>
> In addition to race groups, NASA TX offers two driver's ed groups: 
> introductory and advanced.  On-track protocal is comparable to other
> existing
> driver's ed venues in which you have participated.  However, in the
> advanced
> group only, passing is allowed anywhere with a point-by, making the NASA
> TX
> driver's ed venue unique.  If you aspire to race some day, this is about
> as
> close to racing, without racing, as you can get.  Instruction is provided
> in
> the introductory group and is also available in the advanced group.
>
> One of the featured race groups at this event will be the German Touring
> Car
> Challenge.  BMW's and Porsches will be racing each other in the same
> group,
> classed according to their respective club racing rules.  I participated
> in
> this series last year and had a blast racing with the BMW drivers.  So, if
>
> you have a race-prepped BMW or Porsche, come join us.  More info and entry
>
> forms are available at:  www.nasatx.com 
>
> For those who haven't driven at MotorSport Ranch, it's a technical,
> challenging, yet safe track.  The track is less than three years old, so
> the
> surface is still very smoothe.  For more details, visit:  
> www.motorsportranch.com
>
> The NASA TX events are run by a group of really nice folks who aim to
> please,
> so I think you'll enjoy yourself, whether you come to race, run in the
> driver's ed groups, or just observe.  For more information on NASA TX, go
> to
> www.nasatx.com, or feel free to contact me and I'll try to answer your
> questions.
>
> Hope to see you there!
>
> Becky Laughlin
> (281) 360-0123

***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***

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Date: Tue, 22 Jan 2002 17:26:57 +0100
From: Henri Le Hir <hlehir@lucent.com>
Subject: Team3S: Oil Brand/Viscosity Europe vs US

>>I've also heard that in Europe they don't change their oil as often as in
>>the US.  Roger is that true? ;)

Car : Nissan 300 Zx Twin Turbo

US : Use ANY oil, change every 3000 miles
Europe ONLY 100% Synth Oil, change every 10.000 km (or 6000 miles)

I use the very same rule for my Stealth (to be honest, I never actually
checked the Mitsu Bible), but if it's good for my Zs, it's good for my
Stealth

Henri

***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***

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Date: Tue, 22 Jan 2002 17:39:35 +0100
From: Roger Gerl <roger.gerl@bluewin.ch>
Subject: Re: Team3S: Oil Brand/Viscosity Europe vs US

> >>I've also heard that in Europe they don't change their oil as often as in
> >>the US.  Roger is that true? ;)

- - For the 3000GT it is recommended to change oil every 7500km.
- - Audi A8 it is 10'000km

Fully Synth oil 5W-40 or better is recommended.
Please note, oil is very expensive here ! We pay about $15 for a liter for
e.g. Mobil 1 5W-40

Roger
93'3000GT TT
www.rtec.ch

***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***

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Date: Tue, 22 Jan 2002 11:52:18 -0500
From: "Darren Schilberg" <dschilberg@pobox.com>
Subject: RE: Team3S: Oil Brand/Viscosity Europe vs US

Is that $15 US, $15 Euro, or $15 Swiss Franc?

1 liter = 1.05669 quarts
1 quart = 0.946353 liter

1 Swiss Franc = 0.60208 USD

- -----Original Message-----
From: Roger Gerl
Sent: Tuesday, January 22, 2002 11:40
 
- - For the 3000GT it is recommended to change oil every 7500km.
- - Audi A8 it is 10'000km

Fully Synth oil 5W-40 or better is recommended.
Please note, oil is very expensive here ! We pay about $15 for a liter
for
e.g. Mobil 1 5W-40

***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 22 Jan 2002 09:11:51 -0800
From: "Gross, Erik" <erik.gross@intel.com>
Subject: Team3S: Ticking - something else other than lash adjusters

I've been vindicated! =)

So Dodge/Mitsu do know about this being another potential cause of that
@#$#@$ ticking! 

(From Todd's site)

http://www.brightok.net/~tds/9-21-93.txt

Carbon Buildup On Piston Top

Vehicle: Dodge Stealth
TSB Number: 09-21-93
Group: Engine
Date: Dec. 31, 1993
Subject: Carbon Buildup On Top of Piston
Models:

Symptom/Condition:

Symptoms vary from light ticking, to a ticking/hammering
to a hammering/knocking noise as the carbon buildup
increases with mileage and time. The noise is constant
and more pronounced when the engine is cold. However,
it may disappear when the engine warms up. The noise
is most noticeable during idle, but will get louder as
engine speed increases.

Discussion:

Carbon buildup is a relatively new condition that occurs
during the combustion process and results from certain
compounds in gasoline. These compounds form deposits
on the top of the piston and cause contact between the
cylinder head and the piston. The condition affects all
gasoline engines and is industry wide.

The brand of fuel and the type of detergents used by the
gasoline supplier significantly contribute to the condition.
Also, vehicles used in city traffic or light duty cycle
operation are more prone to incurring the condition.

DIAGNOSIS:

1.   Make sure that all vehicle systems are operating as designed.

     Using the Mopar Diagnostic System or the Scan Tool (DRB II)
     with appropriate diagnostic procedure manual, verify that
     all engine systems are functioning as designed. If
     Diagnostic Trouble Codes (DTC's) are present, record them
     on the repair order for future reference, and repair as
     necessary.

2.   If all engine systems are functioning as designed, ask
     the customer about the fuel that is being used in the
     vehicle. If there is a question about the quality of the
     fuel, suggest that only fuels which are "warranted" by the
     gasoline company against the build up of deposits be used.

Repair Procedure:

The use of Mopar Fuel Injector Cleaner has shown reasonable
results in removing carbon buildup deposits. Add one bottle
of Mopar Fuel Injector Cleaner (P/N 4318007) to a full tank
of gas.

CAUTION:
UNDER NO CIRCUMSTANCES SHOULD THIS FUEL INJECTOR CLEANER BE
ADDED TO A PARTIALLY FILLED FUEL TANK. ALSO, LIQUID CLEANERS
ADDED THROUGH THE ENGINE INTAKE SYSTEM COULD
RESULT IN BENT CONNECTING RODS DUE TO HYDROSTATIC LOCK.

Mopar fuel injector cleaner is not intended for continuous
use. Owners should be advised of the cause of the noise problem
and a recommendation should be made to try other brands of
gasoline.

Policy: Information Only

***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***

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Date: Tue, 22 Jan 2002 12:32:28 -0500
From: "Darren Schilberg" <dschilberg@pobox.com>
Subject: RE: Team3S: Oil Brand/Viscosity Europe vs US

I know I am not supposed to forward private email to the list but it is
only to clear up my question.  I trimmed out parts not relevant to the
post.

- --Flash!

- -----Original Message-----
From: Roger Gerl [mailto:roger.gerl@bluewin.ch]
Sent: Tuesday, January 22, 2002 12:04
To: dschilberg@pobox.com

$ is Dollar and CHF is Swiss Franc. 1 Liter is between 19 CHF and 24 CHF

Roger

- -----Original Message-----
From: Darren Schilberg
Sent: Tuesday, January 22, 2002 11:52
To: team3s@team3s.com
 
Is that $15 US, $15 Euro, or $15 Swiss Franc?

1 liter = 1.05669 quarts
1 quart = 0.946353 liter

1 Swiss Franc = 0.60208 USD

***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 22 Jan 2002 12:28:55 -0500
From: "Darren Schilberg" <dschilberg@pobox.com>
Subject: RE: Team3S: Ticking - something else other than lash adjusters

Mine is typically non-existent immediately after startup (cold or warm
temps) but starts soon after starting (about 10-60 seconds after).  Idle
is worst ticking and depending on how low the oil level is makes it tick
louder also (2 quarts low is a VERY loud ticking, 1 quart low is
moderate ticking, and full oil is muffled ticking if any at all).

Revving engine or higher engine revs when driving is not noticed.  Maybe
because the engine or exhaust drowns out the ticking but revving it and
releasing causes all ticking to stop for a few seconds to 10+ minutes.

Just what I've noticed on my car.

1995 VR-4
60k tune-up
84k currently on car

- --Flash!

- -----Original Message-----
From: Gross, Erik
Sent: Tuesday, January 22, 2002 12:12
 
Carbon Buildup On Piston Top

Symptoms vary from light ticking, to a ticking/hammering
to a hammering/knocking noise as the carbon buildup
increases with mileage and time. The noise is constant
and more pronounced when the engine is cold. However,
it may disappear when the engine warms up. The noise
is most noticeable during idle, but will get louder as
engine speed increases.

***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 22 Jan 2002 13:17:06 -0600
From: "Black, Dave (ICT)" <dblai@allstate.com>
Subject: Team3S: Wiring harness question

I have a question about a small wiring harness that is about 6 inches off
the positive battery post connector.  It is a small harness with only 1 wire
in it (a black wire with a red stripe) and plugs for 2 wires.  The harness
is somewhat in the shape of a T if you are looking at the plugs.  The wire
connector is a spade (flat blade-like connector similar to a screwdriver).
My problem is that the wire came out of the harness and I do not know which
plug the spade connector is supposed to go into.

My question is which plug does the wire connect to and what is this harness
for?

when looking at the harness plugs it looks kinda like this:
 _________
 |              |
 |________|
     |      |
     |      |
     |___|

TIA

Dave 95VR4
http://www.daveblack.net

***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***

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Date: Tue, 22 Jan 2002 13:24:56 -0600
From: "Jannusch, Matt" <mjannusch@marketwatch.com>
Subject: RE: Team3S: Wiring harness question

> My question is which plug does the wire connect to and what
> is this harness for?

Sounds like the fuel pump test connector, RPM test lead, or ignition timing
adjustment connector.

It doesn't plug into anything, if it is one of those.  They are only used
for testing purposes.  See page 3 of the Electrical service manual for more
info/pictures.

- -Matt
'95 3000GT Spyder VR4

***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 22 Jan 2002 17:44:13 -0500
From: Jerry Bowling <scorpman@optonline.net>
Subject: Re: Team3S: thoughs on Turbo/supercharger

Ok Guys,
    I am the orignal person On this post,, I have found out what I am going
to do,, no other car I want, I really enjoy the whole being of the Stealth,,
handling. look, comfort. So I am sticking to the stealth/vr4.. And I have
found one that I want am going to get it,, thanks for all the imput
- ----- Original Message -----
From: "Merritt" <merritt@cedar-rapids.net>
To: "Willis, Charles E." <cewillis@TexasChildrensHospital.org>; "'Damon
Rachell'" <damonr@mefas.com>; "Jerry Bowling" <scorpman@optonline.net>
Cc: <    >
Sent: Tuesday, January 22, 2002 9:52 AM
Subject: RE: Team3S: thoughs on Turbo/supercharger

> At 08:34 AM 1/22/02 -0600, Willis, Charles E. wrote:
> >... except on a road course.  Your 750hp 'vette will likely drive
straight
> >off the track.  I don't know how many super high hp 'vettes I've seen
where
> >the driver has to coast around on idle because of too damn much torque.
> >
> >
> One of my ROWG buddies has an ex-drag race Camaro with supercharger and
NOS
> that he's converted to road racing. He has a terrible problem getting the
> power down, cuz all the car wants to do is light up the tires with all
that
> horsepower. At our Marshalltown track, he probably spun the tires about
> half the way around, yet still wound up with one of the fastest times of
> the day. It was one of those legendary point-and-shoot cars that LEAPS
from
> corner to corner.
>
> Rich/slow old poop

***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 22 Jan 2002 16:47:16 -0600
From: Merritt <merritt@cedar-rapids.net>
Subject: Re: Team3S: thoughs on Turbo/supercharger

At 05:44 PM 1/22/02 -0500, Jerry Bowling wrote:
>Ok Guys,
>    I am the orignal person On this post,, I have found out what I am going
>to do,, no other car I want, I really enjoy the whole being of the Stealth,,
>handling. look, comfort. So I am sticking to the stealth/vr4.. And I have
>found one that I want am going to get it,, thanks for all the imput

If what you have told us is true, we all envy you. To us, it would be like
winning the lottery.

Like you, if I won the lottery, I'd  turn my VR4 into the fastest car in
the world, just to show all those stuck-up Viper and Porsche TT AWD owners.
 Shoot, you could probably do for less than $125,000 (the cost of a new
Porsche TT AWD).

Keep us posted.

Rich/slow old poop

***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 22 Jan 2002 18:09:43 -0500
From: Jerry Bowling <scorpman@optonline.net>
Subject: Re: Team3S: thoughs on Turbo/supercharger

Will do,, the car I found is mostly built,, but I have alot of plans for
making it faster and ALOT lighter then it is,,, when I seen this car and the
mods to it I could never do that for the money I am getting it for,, so on
future mods to it I will let all know and see if I can break the 10 sec mark
with it
- ----- Original Message -----
From: "Merritt" <merritt@cedar-rapids.net>
To: "Jerry Bowling" <scorpman@optonline.net>; <Team3S@stealth-3000gt.st>
Sent: Tuesday, January 22, 2002 5:47 PM
Subject: Re: Team3S: thoughs on Turbo/supercharger

> At 05:44 PM 1/22/02 -0500, Jerry Bowling wrote:
> >Ok Guys,
> >    I am the orignal person On this post,, I have found out what I am
going
> >to do,, no other car I want, I really enjoy the whole being of the
Stealth,,
> >handling. look, comfort. So I am sticking to the stealth/vr4.. And I have
> >found one that I want am going to get it,, thanks for all the imput
>
> If what you have told us is true, we all envy you. To us, it would be like
> winning the lottery.
>
> Like you, if I won the lottery, I'd  turn my VR4 into the fastest car in
> the world, just to show all those stuck-up Viper and Porsche TT AWD
owners.
>  Shoot, you could probably do for less than $125,000 (the cost of a new
> Porsche TT AWD).
>
> Keep us posted.
>
> Rich/slow old poop

***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 22 Jan 2002 23:01:30 -0500
From: "Jeff VanOrsdal" <jeffv@1nce.com>
Subject: Team3S: Attn Boris

Sorry to bug the list with this.  I beg 1000 pardons for my transgressions.

Boris, I emailed you about the parts you have for sale, but I believe it
didn't go through.  Could you please email me off-list?  Thanks.  My email
is below.

Jeff V.
1991 Stealth ESX Twin Turbo
jeffv@1nce.com

***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***

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Date: Wed, 23 Jan 2002 18:28:30 +1300
From: "Steve Cooper" <scooper@paradise.net.nz>
Subject: Team3S: 4 bolt block

Hi

I was just wondering if sombody could help me find a photo of a 4 bolt main
block.
Thanks in advance.

Steve

***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***

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Date: Tue, 22 Jan 2002 23:43:03 -0600
From: "Jannusch, Matt" <mjannusch@marketwatch.com>
Subject: RE: Team3S: 4 bolt block

> I was just wondering if sombody could help me find
> a photo of a 4 bolt main block. Thanks in advance.

What, specifically are you looking for?  I have lots of pretty pictures of
my block.

- -Matt
'95 3000GT Spyder VR4

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Date: Wed, 23 Jan 2002 05:54:17 +0000
From: apedenko@attbi.com
Subject: Re: Team3S: More Transmission nonsense

I have the exact same problem (with the exact same
dealer! took the f***ing bastards 3 months to do _any_
warranty work on it). What I don't understand is this -
they sent my car out to some guy (for you Chicagoland
folks out there, it was a tranny guy in Schaumburg,
called Roadmaster transmissions - the absolute most
horrible shop I've ever seen). They fixed my leak (my
seals were leaking), told me that my synchros didn't
grind when you shift(though they did) and looked
perfect. That is absolutely ridiculous - it's to the
point where when I took the car in for them to look at
it, I told them that 1. it grinds. 2. when you shift
into 4th or 6th and let go of the clutch, the shifter
pops forward a good inch. They told me that wasn't
there, and refused to go into the car with me. What the
h*ll do I have to do to these bastards to get them to
fix my transmission? I spent $1,500 on a Mitsu bumper-
bumper warranty that was supposed to cover everything.
I want the tranny sent to Kormex, but they refuse to do
anything else. The warranty ppl say it's the shop's
problem, the shops sez it's the warranty!!!

I appologize for the somewhat OT post and the harsh
words, but I've had the car since Jul '01 and this
problem since then as well. I love my car, but it's
kinda hard to drive when I have to wait ~5 secs between
shifts for the synchros to grind a _little_ less.

Any suggestions?

  Thanks,
  Alex

BTW - if you're in Chicago - _stay_ _away_ from
Libertyville Mitsubishi. Them and Roadmaster
transmissions. Aside from not doing _anything_, they're
also rude as G-d knows what!
> Hey all,
>
> To give a little background up front, I have a 97 VR-4 which I bought in
> June 01 with 38k on it. Soon after the purchase (2-months) I noticed that it
> was hard to shift into 2nd, sometimes felt it grinding, then 3rd soon after.
>   Side note: shifting much harder when cold.  Had the clutch and flywheel
> replaced with RPS 3, Fidanza aluminum.  Still the problem.  Had Libertyville
> Mitsubishi look at it, they did not acknowledge any problem.  I pushed, got
> a District Manager from Mitsubishi to come out.  Here's the point: The
> Manager took a test drive, immediately tells me that it's a fluid issue,
> recommended GM Goodwrench Syncromesh.  Told me that this is the ONLY fluid
> to use, which is why we have these issues with our cars.  Valid? Called some
> Mits dealers, and no one recommends Syncromesh.  Any comments guys?  I'm
> annoyed.
>
> Thanks,
>
> Dustin

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Date: Tue, 22 Jan 2002 23:54:42 -0600
From: "Jannusch, Matt" <mjannusch@marketwatch.com>
Subject: RE: Team3S: 4 bolt block

>> I was just wondering if sombody could help me find
>> a photo of a 4 bolt main block. Thanks in advance.

> What, specifically are you looking for?  I have
> lots of pretty pictures of my block.

If you are just looking for how to identify a 4-bolt from a 2-bolt, here's a
pic of the crank main bearing "cap" on my 4-bolt block:

http://people.mn.mediaone.net/mjannusch/crankin.jpg

Essentially the 2-bolt has only single bolts on each side of each bearing
instead of 2 per side.  The 2-bolt also has a "bearing cap stay" on each
side to try to hold alignment.  The 4-bolt doesn't use the stays.

The block itself looks something like this:

http://people.mn.mediaone.net/mjannusch/block1.jpg

...only not nearly as pretty when you pull it out of the car.  This is after
hot-tanking, boring, honing, painting, etc.

- -Matt
'95 3000GT Spyder VR4

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Date: Tue, 22 Jan 2002 23:59:22 -0600
From: "Jannusch, Matt" <mjannusch@marketwatch.com>
Subject: RE: Team3S: More Transmission nonsense

> I appologize for the somewhat OT post and the harsh
> words, but I've had the car since Jul '01 and this
> problem since then as well. I love my car, but it's
> kinda hard to drive when I have to wait ~5 secs between
> shifts for the synchros to grind a _little_ less.

> Any suggestions?

Demand the money you paid for the warranty back, since they won't cover a
defect as a warranty should and put it towards having Kormex fix your
tranny.  Otherwise just flat-out sue the warranty company to force them to
hold up their end of the contract that you entered into in good faith.

- -Matt
'95 3000GT Spyder VR4

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Date: Wed, 23 Jan 2002 19:59:22 +1300
From: "Steve Cooper" <scooper@paradise.net.nz>
Subject: Re: Team3S: 4 bolt block

Thanks guys for all the quick replies, Matt sent the perfect pic.

Steve

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Date: Wed, 23 Jan 2002 08:45:20 -0600
From: "Willis, Charles E." <cewillis@TexasChildrensHospital.org>
Subject: RE: Team3S: More Transmission nonsense

Alex, if you have a Mitsubishi warranty, it should be honored by another
Mitsubishi dealer.  Have you tried taking the car to another one?

Chuck

> I have the exact same problem (with the exact same
> dealer!

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End of Team3S: 3000GT & Stealth V1 #733
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